Jean Georges Steakhouse [6,] Las Vegas NV

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Jean Georges Steakhouse

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2015 Moet Champagne

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Brioche Bread with Herb Butter

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Golden Osetra Caviar, Egg Toast, Herbs

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Japanese Old Fashioned with Ginger, Thyme Lemonade with Kettle One Citron, Cognac-Grand Marnier Side Car

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Wagyu Carpaccio, Gougeres, Lime Salt, Truffle Mayonnaise and Balsamic

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Heirloom Tomatoes, Cherries, Blueberries, Raspberries, Gold Peppers, Persian Cucumbers, Red Wine Vinegar, Aged Balsamic and Basil

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Japanese Snapper, Pickled Cherry Peppers, Mint and Toasted Sesame Seeds

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Sweet Corn Soup, Lime, Chili, Ginger, Lemongrass and Cilantro

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Bacon Wrapped Shrimp, White Peach Mustard, Horseradish, Lime and Elderflower

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Pepper Crusted Foie Gras, Cherries, Marcona Almond, Lime, Toasted Brioche, Celery, Amaretto

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Crunchy Organic Chicken, Spinach and Buttery Hot Sauce

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Roasted Mikuni Wild Harvest Halibut, Crunchy Potatoes, Tangy Peppers

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Mishima Ranch Smoked Wagyu Brisket, Black Pepper, Soy and Fermented Bean Sauce

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Mishima Ranch Short Rib with Citrus, Garlic, Chipotle, Ancho and Chive Blossom

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Greeley Colorado Rack of Lamb, Smoked Chili Glaze

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1/2 lb King Crab Legs

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U4 Salt Water Prawns with Butter and Parsley

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Mashed Potatoes

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Bone Marrow, Toast, Parsley Salad

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Black Truffle Corn Polenta

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Sauteed Broccolini, Chili Flake and Lemon

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Tempura Fried Cauliflower with Emulsified Hollandaise

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Double Espresso, Ice

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Market Apple Pie, Maple Pecan Ice Cream

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Salted Caramel Sundae, Fudge, Candied Peanuts, Caramel Popcorn

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Strawberry Linzer, Strawberry Ice Cream, Strawberry Meringue, Strawberry Sorbet, Dehydrated Strawberries, Fennel Blossom

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Gold Bar, Hazelnut, Chocolate, Passion Fruit-Mango Gelee

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When Jean Georges Steakhouse closed its doors in June for a touch up there was an audible sigh of relief, a hotel that has not been shy to blow up concepts instead doing right by simply brightening the façade and updating wallpaper while Chef Sean Griffin benefitted from a trip to help the boss open up shop in Los Angeles and a return to new menus, a kitchen Herb garden and some fun service items.

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Using the clever slogan of “The only thing aging is our Steaks” throughout the update, though in reality the dining room had always been one of the most modern of Las Vegas’ top-tier Steakhouses, it was as a party of three that a visit was paid to the newly re-opened space just one day after Chef Vongerichten had departed, the facility changes only obvious to regulars looking for them while the seasonal menu update speaks to a restaurant continuously focused on perfecting each guest’s dining experience.

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If anything less-stylized than prior, abstract Cows gone but overhead music still energetic with the wall of wine untouched and new chairs apparently coming soon, it was after greetings at the podium that guests were led to a table with good lighting towards the back of the room, Chef Griffin stopping by to say hello along with the GM and a Carte Blanche Dinner soon to start with a glass of Bubbles and Parker House-inspired Brioche served with Herb Butter.

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Frequently starting tasting menus with Caviar, the Egg Caviar one of those beloved signatures still offered daily at his Michelin 3* New York Flagship, it was on a sous vide Egg Yolk sandwiched between Buttered Brioche that a heap of Golden Osetra was piled to begin a three-hour night unveiled in five courses, three refreshing and well balanced Cocktails arriving just moments before the Steakhouse’s signature Wagyu Carpaccio Gougeres, a bright Tomato Salad featuring an Intuitive Forager’s bounty and a ‘very Jean Georges’ plate of Japanese Snapper with Pickled Cherry Peppers, Mint and Toasted Sesame Seeds that was served as part of a Wine dinner the evening prior.

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Continuing to work with certain ingredients, an ‘if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it’ sort of mentality that currently sees Griffin’s Bacon Wrapped Shrimp prepared with White Peach Mustard and just a touch of Horseradish, those who’ve been lucky enough to try Jean George Steakhouse’s Foie Gras in the past will be happy to see the Pepper Crusted Steak is back with a Marcona Almond Crunch and Strawberries, though the version on this particularly night was instead offered with reduced Black Cherries and Celery Leaf plus a kiss of Amaretto.

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Slowly enjoying Sweet Corn Soup poured tableside, the heat, Citrus and Ginger all speaking volumes about Sean’s ability to adapt Vongerichten’s style to the season, course three included a flaky filet of Mikuni Wild Harvest Halibut paired to crunchy Potatoes and pickled Peppers, the Organic Chicken served next to it still Sin City’s best Fried Bird and easily large enough to be shared for those dining on a budget.

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Anticipating big things as part of the entrees, the menu now even more loaded in top quality cuts from some of the World’s best purveyors than before, it was with a tableside show that Chef Griffin and a waitress prepared three types of protein; Lamb Chops with a light kick grassy and tender while Short Ribs dressed in Flowers required no more than a spoon to be liberated from the Bone, a whole Wagyu Brisket still jiggly when presented proving buttery soft to the knife with fat completely melted beneath the beautifully charred bark rich with flavors of housemade Doenjang.

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Going Surf n’ Turf with a half-pound of King Crab Legs and forearm-size Prawns soaked in Butter, sides on this particular night continuing to speak volumes about Jean George’s ingredients, the Robuchon-esque Potatoes and head-turning Bone Marrow once again earning “must order” approval while the Sweet Corn Polenta with Truffles, Spicy Broccolini and Tempura’d Whole Cauliflower were all new additions that continued to display the Restaurant’s dominance in a city where places like Carnevino and CUT also strive to make the items served *with* the Steak an equally integral part of the meal.

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At this point pretty well sated, or in other words stuffed, it was alongside an Iced Double Espresso that two familiar faces were presented alongside a returned seasonal favorite and one new showstopper, the Apple Pie still head and shoulders above any other in Sin City while Harry’s Strawberries came in a half-dozen forms as part of the buttery Linzer with a hint of Licorice, the 100% Jean Georges Gold Bar outperforming a personal bias against Passion Fruit by mellowing the oft-cloying flavor with creamy Hazelnut Mousse, Mango and plenty of Milk Chocolate.

FIVE STARS: Though many well-traveled diners may poo-poo Las Vegas as the land of Celebrity Chefs and enormous dining rooms, Jean Georges Steakhouse definitely fitting the bill on both accounts, it would be hard for anyone to name a better collection of Steaks, Sides and Entrees than what is on display at Aria’s 2nd Floor elderstatesman in 2017, the recent renovations making the space even more inviting while the kitchen led by Sean Griffin continues to perform on a World Class level even when filled.

RECOMMENDED: Wagyu Brisket, Crunchy Organic Chicken, Wagyu Carpaccio, Pepper Crusted Foie Gras, Bone Marrow, Corn Polenta, Market Apple Pie, Strawberry Linzer.

AVOID: Passion Fruit is still not a favorite, though this version rival’s that of a similar composition at Gwen in Los Angeles for most mild use of the ingredient in a Dessert. Also, items like the Cauliflower and Corn Polenta were served as off-menu specials and may not be available every day.

TIP: 5:30p-10:30p daily and still offering the six-course tasting for a bargain price of $130 per diner.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

https://www.aria.com/en/restaurants/jean-georges-steakhouse.html

Jean Georges Steakhouse Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, Jean Georges Steakhouse, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Truffle, Truffles Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Tennesseasonings, Las Vegas NV

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Tennesseasonings

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Plate 2.3 – Baby Back Ribs, Smoked Pulled Pork, Laura’s BBQ Baked Beans, Collard Greens, Macaroni and Cheese, Cornbread Muffin

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Plate 2.3 – Hot Link, Chicken Chorizo Sausage, Buffalo Style Smoked Peg Leg Chicken, Pasta Salad, Macaroni and Cheese, Corn on the Cob

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Banana Pudding with Shortbread Cookies

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Bob’s Key Lime Pie

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Open for approximately three months on West Warm Springs Road, Southwest Las Vegas’ dining scene continuing to grow by leaps and bounds, Tennesseasonings sees the Harris family bring a unique style of regional Barbeque to Sin City, the couple from Chattanooga certainly not shooting for Texas or Kansas City in style and equally far from the Mop-sauces offered in the Western half of their home State.

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Located in the streetside storefront of the same strip mall as Japaneiro, the interior bright with Volunteer-Orange and pictures of Peyton and Reggie, guests entering Tennesseasonings will immediately be struck by the lack of a ‘smoked’ smell and the sounds of Sports Television, a sleepy-eyed team of four tucked behind the counter on a recent Saturday visit that found the space devoid of guests around 12:30 in the afternoon.

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Thus far receiving mixed reviews that seem to be based on misperceptions of intent, comments about not being “Tennessee BBQ” clearly referencing Memphis and thus unaware that the East’s dry-rubbed style is as different from that as St. Louis is from Kansas City, it was as a group of two that the counter was approached with a big smile offered from a young man happy to make recommendations, he and his colleagues previously entertained by their cell phones and a re-run of Dunk Kings.

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Bridging the style of Jack’s in Music City with North Carolina ‘cue, though the obvious lack of smokers at Tennesseasonings leads one to believe that the meat is prepared in an electric oven next to wood chips as opposed to directly over them, it was after a bit of decision making that two “Plate 2.3” combos were ordered along with Desserts and a Drink, the total cost coming out to just over $53 before tip and a nearly fifteen minute wait to follow as Food was prepared.

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Offering a fairly diverse menu, the rotating specials including Turkey, Bologna and four styles of Sausage while the “Everyday Meat Choices” include traditional smokehouse fare plus several sides, it was after being approached twice more by servers to inquire about Wing Sauce and whether the order was to-go or for dine-in that several Styrofoam containers were presented, the sweet BBQ Sauce and seasoned Vinegar not particularly memorable, yet necessary as both the Ribs and Pork are served naked save for a bit of Salt, Pepper and Chili Powder.

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Taking a look first at sides, the Macaroni and Cheese no better than straight-from-the-box Kraft with a touch less salinity while the tri-color Pasta Salad is virtually flavorless, those looking for something better are encouraged to try either the BBQ Beans mixed with Ground Beef or the tender Collard Greens teaming with Pork in a generous ladle of Pot Liquor.

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Not particularly impressed by two complimentary Cornbread Muffins, the texture a bit too crumbly and sweetness for lack, it was by way of Pulled Pork that Meats were first tasted, an ample amount of crispy Skin mixed in with the flesh creating a pleasant texture that only required a bit of Sauce, the Ribs an entirely different story as they were plenty juicy but without any evidence of a Smoke ring and thus totally reliant on the Sauce for flavor beyond the basic seasoning.

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Offering two links of Sausage to an order, the “Peg Leg Chicken” nothing more than smoked Wings and Drumettes slathered in a choice of Sauces, it was with hopes of a good spice profile that a Hot Link and Chicken Chorizo Sausage were selected, both of them clearly store bought and merely finished in house despite being flavorful enough while the ‘homemade’ Desserts were a hit and miss way to finish, the Hulk-Green Key Lime Pie buoyed by a buttery Graham Cracker Crust that played well off sour Filling that would have been better off with less Whipped Cream while the Banana Pudding was completely devoid of any whole Fruit with just a single Shortbread Cookie adding texture to a mix that was almost certainly straight out the box.

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TWO AND A HALF STARS: Offering “good for what it is” as a sort of backhanded compliment, East Tennessee BBQ not especially well known outside the region for a reason, Tennesseasonings finds itself in a tough spot for trying to do something different in a city notoriously bad for Barbeque, the results largely marred by the lack of a smoker and reliance on what seems to be a lot of low-effort non-Meat items.

RECOMMENDED: Pulled Pork, Collard Greens, Hot Link, Chicken Chorizo Sausage.

AVOID: Banana Pudding, Macaroni and Cheese, Tri-Color Pasta.

TIP: Open from Noon till 8:00pm Wednesday through Saturday and until Seven o’clock on Sundays. $25 off $50 on Restaurant.com

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

https://www.tennesseasonings.com/

 Tennesseasonings Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in BBQ, Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Tennesseasonings Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Rivea [2,] Las Vegas NV

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Rivea

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Champagne

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Grissini with Olive and Anchovy Puree

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Country Bread, Olive Focaccia and Wheat Crisps with Olive Oil

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Chilled Cantaloupe and Watermelon Soup with Thai Chili

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Roasted Panisse

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Marinated Seabass with Red Onion, Pomello and Pimento Pepper

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Octopus Salad with Garbonzo Beans, Green Onion, Confit Sweet Bell Pepper, Emulsified Hummus

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Provencal Caponata with Eggplant, Tomato, Olive and Pine Nuts

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Lobster Risotto in Shellfish Cream

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Bombardoni Pasta with Braised Short Rib, Red Wine Reduction

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John Dory with Calamari, Prawn, Clams and Bouillabaisse Broth

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Pacific Wild Halibut with Zucchini, Green and White Asparagus

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Ratatouille Cookpot with Peppers, Zucchini, Summer Squash and Garlic

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Angus Beef Rossini with Foie Gras and Black Truffle Sauce

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Sweet Corn Our Way with Cream, Zucchini and Red Peppers

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Double Americano

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Peach Melba with Peach Ice Cream, Red Currant Compote, Lime and Verbena Jelly

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Citrus Cup with Orange Marmalade, Candied Lemon, Campari Granite

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Limoncello Baba with Chantilly Cream

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Flourless Chocolate Souffle with Vanilla Ice Cream

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Opened in October 2015 as a rebrand of culinary giant Alain Ducasse’s miX, a meal early in its inception showing the food to be half-hearted and undersized while servers exuberantly looked for the upsell, it was with recent positive words from a trusted source that a reservation for two was booked on Friday night, Chef Bruno Riou having now dialed in the Mediterranean flavors while the room remains one of the very best ways to take in the Las Vegas sunset.

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Located high above The Delano, the Skyfall Lounge next door as popular as ever with tourists even though searing hot temperatures kept the patio closed until several hours after dark, it was by way of the externally facing glass elevator guests entered the space only to have to pass by the kitchen and chandelier of bubbles en route to the hostess stand, a reservation confirmed and seats at one of the tables looking straight out onto the city a comfortable place to spend nearly three hours in repast.

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Busy for Bastille Day, though the style of French served at Rivea is hardly the braised Meats and rich Sauces typically thought by most as typifying the country’s cuisine, it was shortly after sitting down that a glass of Champagne was presented along with the restaurant’s Grissini and Olive-Anchovy Tapenade, a trio of Breads served with Olive Oil not far behind alongside a nightly amuse of Watermelon Gazpacho poured tableside over chilled Cantaloupe with a subtle bit of heat.

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Remaining one of Las Vegas’ most breezy dining rooms, the seaside blues and high ceilings further opening up a contiguous space that sees the Valley spread in all directions through glass, Rivea’s current “Tour de la Riviera” tasting soon continued by way of a trio of plates including Seabass Crudo with Citrus and Pimento Pepper alongside chunky Eggplant Caponata and Chickpea Fries plus an added plate of tender Octopus served with crispy Garbanzo Beans and aerated Hummus, the flavors all bright and fresh though the Panisse would have benefitted from a dipping Sauce or something to help give it an identity outside of the Salt atop its crunchy coating.

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Moving next into a Pasta duo, each served family-style with the Risotto perfectly cooked in Shellfish Stock and a small bit of Butter-poached Lobster at its center, Chef Riou showed a skilled hand by way of the al dente tubes served in Sauce Bordelaise, the Short Rib fork-tender with a great depth of flavor and roasted Tomatoes adding just enough acid to keep the beautifully executed sauce from being too rich at such an early point in the evening.

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Serving relatively small portions of each plate as part of the tasting, slightly larger presentations available a la carte as noted at surrounding tables, course three of the tasting was titled “Fish” and although those averse to flavors of the sea may wish to think twice about John Dory served a la briny Bouillabaisse the dish is true to its description with a jumbo Prawn served amidst Calamari and Clams plus buttered Toast while the Wild Halibut sings of Summer with a lightly saline Foam, two types of Asparagus and slices of Zucchini.

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Requesting one of Ducasse’s signature Cookpots as well as a side of Creamed Corn with Peppers be added, the former served in the style of Ratatouille along with the Fish while the latter came as a side to a medium-rare Filet of Prime Beef with Foie Gras and Australian Black Truffle Sauce, those expecting a French Classic on Bastille Day would not be let down by Angus so tender that it could have been cut with a butter knife, the Duck Liver caramelized on the surface and creamy within while the Mashed Potatoes and gently warmed Endive were just enough to refresh the palate between bites.

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Taking Coffee along with Dessert, two seasonal additions presented along with a pair of classics, suffice it to say that the Citrus Cup rang true to its name with mouth-puckering combination of Rind and Marmalade that ate somewhat like a Pudding, the flavors too intense for one at the table while the Peach Melba offered a more mild flavor, Chef Ducasse’s famous Baba just as wonderful with Italy’s famous Lemon Liqueur as it is with Rum while the Chocolate Souffle proves worth the 18-minute preparation time thanks to a good rise and soft center that becomes a warm Pudding with the addition of Vanilla Ice Cream.

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FOUR STARS: Without a doubt the lightest flavors of Sin City’s four French Masters, the price-point on par with Twist and quite a bit lower than Savoy or Robuchon, Rivea seems to have found its stride as year three approaches, the food matching the room and Chef Riou executing every plate expertly while the staff manages a balance of personality and professionalism that many guests who fear French Restaurants as ‘snooty’ will be comfortable with.

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RECOMMENDED: Provencal Caponata, Octopus Salad, Bombardoni Pasta, Seasonal Cookpot, Chocolate Souffle, Limoncello Baba.

AVOID: Panisse Frites are fine but need a bit more to justify the pricepoint, Citrus Cup needs something like whipped cream that can be added on a per-bite bases to help offset the bitterness.

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TIP: Offering Dinner from 6pm daily Rivea is best accessed by way of Elevators of the Delano Lobby, though those wishing to partake in the view from Skyfall are encouraged to take the elevator located just outside Michael Jackson ONE by Cirque du Soleil.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

https://www.delanolasvegas.com/en/restaurants/rivea.html#/Overview

Rivea Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Octopus, Rivea, Souffle, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Truffles Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Østerberg Ice Cream, Copenhagen DK

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Østerberg Ice Cream

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Samples: Elderflower, Licorice, Sea Buckthorn, Lychee

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Triple on a Cone – Straciatella, Coffee with Caramelized White Chocolate, Pistachio

Opened in Summer 2014 at Rosenvængets Allé 7C, a location not far from several Coffee Shops and Cafes, Østerberg Ice Cream invites guests to “taste the world” by way of flavors crafted of local Cow’s milk and ingredients sourced from far and wide.

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Named after the Østerbro area in which it is located as well as, ironically, owner Cathrine Østerberg whose knowledge of exotic produce comes by way of a family that launched Østerberg International Fruit Company in the 1970s, it was sometime around 17h00 on a Wednesday between lunch at Geranium and dinner at Alchemist that a visit was paid to the small shop with limited signage, the July weather seeing a few locals on a bench outside with several more lined up inside for a taste.

Just about to celebrate its third anniversary, an opening collection of flavors now increased to a catalogue of nearly one hundred options with the small batch method making precisely a dozen available each day by the scoop, it was after a brief wait and several translations by the bearded clerk that samples were requested, the spoonfuls far larger than those typically presented in Italy or the United States fully coating the mouth in flavors like Lychee and Salted Licorice that were very tempting while Elderflower a bit too floral and Sea Buckthorn far more concentrated than the berry itself with a linger not unlike Passion Fruit.

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Charging 24DKK for one scoop, 30 for two and 36 for three, a fairly significant deal for those who wish to enjoy more at less than one US Dollar per additional flavor, it was after a few more tastes that the decision was made to go with a freshly made Waffle Cone topped in a complimentary trio, the Straciatella not unlike Gelato in terms of its density with Chocolate Chunks spread throughout while the Coffee and Caramelized White Chocolate was similar in texture with bold roasty notes, the light green Pistachio proving to be almost on par with that at Milan’s Il Massimo with tiny grounds of the Nuts adding a subtle heterogeneity to the otherwise satin mouthfeel.

http://www.osterberg-ice.dk

Posted in Coffee, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Vacation, Østerberg Ice Cream Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The American Pie Company, Copenhagen DK

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The American Pie Company

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Yo Mamma’s Apple Cinnamon Pie

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Cinnamon Bread Pie with Melted Icing and Whipped Cream

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Banoffee Pie with Caramel and Toffee Cream

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Located in Central Copenhagen, not far from Conditori La Glace where the Grande Dame of Copenhagen Desserts has reigned since 1870, The American Pie Company stands out in a sea of shopping thanks to its novelty, the quirky corner store from Erin Eberhardt-Chapman and Dorte Prip opened in 2015 as the first American Pie shop in all of Denmark continuing to wow customers with good ol’ fashioned slices and a soundtrack featuring the likes of Tom Petty, The Guess Who and Don McLean.

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Born out of homesickness and a love of baking, American expatriate Chapman first producing a pair of Danish Language Cookbooks to gather funds for the eventual shop at Skindergade 25, those entering The American Pie Company with no previous experience will immediately be struck by the sort of kitsch that those born Stateside have come to know by way of countless Diners and Television depictions, the Stars and Stripes hung on one wall with neon “PIE” in capital letters behind a counter where Coffee is brewed strong and over a dozen Pies are offered daily.

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At this point as widely accepted by locals as by tourists, a smattering of savory Pies mixed in with both classic and novel Desserts luring in those mostly speaking Danish on this particular afternoon, it was with a broad smile that each guest was greeted at the register, and although several tough choices were made before a decision was finally reached the selected trio spoke to not only good ingredients but a lot of time and effort, “Yo Mamma’s” Apple Cinnamon Pie fashioned in the American Dutch Style with a rolled Butter Crust plus a topcoat of Sugar Crystals all overlying Cinnamon-soaked and softened local Apples.

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Undoubtedly true to its name with additional choices including Stonefruit Crumble and Lemon Meringue, but also looking to London for inspiration in the form of a creamy Banoffee Pie with thick Caramel Custard topped in Whipped Cream studded with crumbled Toffee, it was with a rewarmed slice of Cinnamon Bread Pie with Melted Icing and Hand-Whipped Cream that the sampling came to a finish, the small cubes of Brioche toasted on the surface and springy beneath very sweet by local standards but not dissimilar from what one might expect of an American Cinnamon Roll.

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http://www.theamericanpieco.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, The American Pie Co., The American Pie Company, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Geranium, Copenhagen DK

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Geranium

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2009 Dufour par Charles Blanc de Noirs

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Lobster, Milk, Juice from Fermented Carrots, Sea Buckthorn

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Jerusalem Artichoke Leaves, Hazelnut Oil, Rye Vinegar

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“Razor Clam” with Minerals and Sour Cream

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Tomato Water, Ham Fat, Aromatic Herbs

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“Dill Stone,” Horseradish and Frozen Juice from Pickled Dill and Cucumber Granita

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Nettles, Smoked Cheese and Dried Oysters

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Yellow Beets, Aromatic Seeds, Yogurt Juice and Beach Plant Oil

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Grilled White Asparagus, Chervil and Chive Blossoms, Dried Trout

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Salted Hake, Ash, Parsley Stems and Belgian Caviar in Buttermilk

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Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, Gluten Free Bread with Seeds and Butter with Buttermilk and Sorrel

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Langoustine in Juniper Aroma, Ingrid Marie Reduction, Browned Butter

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Lightly Salted Turbot, Green Herbs, Celeriac, Pickled Pine

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Tartlet with Fjord Shrimp, Sol, Chive and Thyme Blossoms with Pickled Elderflowers

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Cabbage Sprouts, Chicken, Pickled Quail Egg, Cepes and Hay Beer

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A Bite of Beetroot, Black Currant, Yogurt and Tagetes

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Ice Cream from Beeswax and Pollen with Intense Rhubarb

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Caramel with Roasted Grain and Green Strawberry

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“This is the End” Salted Licorice Mousse

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Pumpkin Tree, Pumpkin Cake with Pumpkin Seed Oil, Caramel, Dried Plum Juice and Aromatic Seeds, Chocolate with Oats and Sea Buckthorn, Marshmallow with Rose Hip, Green Egg with Pine

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Currently holding position #19 among San Pellegrino’s “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants,” the only Michelin 3* in Copenhagen even during the era of noma and recently ranked as the top Restaurant in The Nordics by The White Guide it is accurate to say that Geranium reigns high over the rest of region’s culinary elite, a location on the eighth floor of Denmark’s national soccer stadium overlooking the Fælledparken making this both a literal and figurative statement.

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Toqued by Rasmus Kofoed, his collection of bronze, silver and gold statues from the Bocuse d’Or standing guard over a small lounge, it was just past noon on Wednesday that a brief walk was made from Østerport Station to the back corner of Telia Parken, only a stylized sign indicating the location of a restaurant accessed by elevator, the doors opening directly on the hostess desk where reservations are confirmed with diners soon face-to-face with an airy space looking lengthwise on a gorgeous dining room and exhibition kitchen.

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Considered by many to be the next step in Scandinavian Cuisine, Kofoed’s cooking taking ideas of The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto and presenting them in all their glory with the sort of plating featured at luxe Hotel D’Angleterre rather than the humble stylings of his noma contemporaries, diners visiting Geranium in its current home will immediately be struck by a glorious expanse focused on both nature and a restaurant working silently despite perpetual motion, the mood cheerful yet professional throughout 20+ plates currently highlighting the “Summer Universe.”

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Turning fellow-Chef Søren Ledet into Dining Room Manager and Sommelier shortly after opening, Mr. Ledet presenting each guest with a glass of bubbles upon seating, it was mere moments later that the first of several Chefs arrived tableside with a bowl described by a list of its ingredients, the cloudy broth of Carrot Juice sweetened by Sea Buckthorn and fortified by Whey acting as a delicate perfume to the Lobster Custard beneath it.

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Not differentiating Amuses or Canapes from actual ‘courses,’ the parade of flavors coming from the kitchen with flawless pacing over the course of three hours, it was following three “leaves” fashioned from Sunchoke that Kofoed’s signature dish of Razor Clam and Sour Cream in an edible shell left nearly everyone in the room smiling, a follow-up of clarified Tomato Water with a float of Ham Fat faintly reminiscent of Stuffed Cabbage after the addition of a spoonful of Herbs and Flower Petals.

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Declining Wine or Juice Pairings, though descriptions from the tables surrounding made each sound quite impressive with the later particularly unique compared to what is available elsewhere in the capitol, dish five would unfortunately offer the meal’s lone slip-up by way of “Dill Stones” served with a Sauce of Horseradish and Cucumber Granita, the flavors far too aggressive to be washed away with water alone and thus not only unpleasant on their own, but enough to taint the palate for both the Nettle and Beet dishes to follow.

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Thankful for the Yogurt liquids that just so happened to be part of a dish described as a “bonus course,” the acid finally liberating both tongue and sinuses from Dill and heat, it was not a minute too soon as Grilled Asparagus and Trout as well as the disc of Salted Hake bound by Ash were two of the meal’s standouts, the former an aromatic composition with a bright herbal flavors and a touch of umami while the follow-up turned 180° with a velvety texture and iodine finding its foil in tangy Buttermilk and Parsley.

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At this point offering Bread Service, a pair of Wheat Crackers alongside addictive two-bite Ancient Grain Loaves and moist Gluten Free Muffins topped with Seeds that paired great with Housemade Butter fortified in Buttermilk and Sorrel, dish ten was being presented for the first time in the dining room that day and although the tableside torching in Juniper seemed mostly for show the flavor of Langoustine presented in Danish Apple Broth with Browned Butter was absolutely beautiful, the sweetness more restrained than one might guess and an elegant lead-in to roasted Turbot topped with a ‘skin’ of Mousseline served in a Sauce of pickled Pine and roasted Bones.

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A tasting menu in the truest sense of the word, each dish continuing a theme and often leaving diners wanting a bite more despite fully expressing the Chef’s intentions, dish fourteen featured a dazzling Tartlet topped in crispy Shrimp with herbs and Elderflower, the afternoon’s final savory a dish of confit Chicken and pickled Eggs served beneath a blanket of Mushrooms, Peas and Cruciferous Vegetables.

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At this point led on a tour of the restaurant, everything from the wine room to the offices and Kofoed’s Test Kitchen all put on full display, it was shortly after a return to the table that the Summer Universe transitioned to sweets, a crispy Beetroot shell housing Black Currant, Yogurt and Marigold assertive and balanced before the back-and-forth sampling of lightly sweetened Ice Cream and compressed Rhubarb in its own Juices, the small Cake in a pool of Caramel with Green Strawberries and an icy disc a bit less flavorful than one may have hoped, but quickly erased from memory by a Salty Licorice Skull titled “This is the End.”

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At this point requesting the bill, though it was clearly foolish to assume that the “end” really meant Chef Rasmus and his team were all out of tricks, it was as the kitchen was starting to wipe down that six more bites were presented, the Pumpkin Tree and Cake each fairly forgettable compared to the rest while a “Green Egg” and Caramel in an edible sheet of Plum both continued the theme of bright herbs and complex textures until the very *end.*

www.geranium.dk/

Posted in Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Geranium, Ice Cream, Lobster, Pork, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mirabelle, Copenhagen DK

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Mirabelle

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Coffee Collective Coffee

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Butter Croissant with Blueberry Jam

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Almond Croissant

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Housemade Raw Jersey Milk Yogurt with House Granola and Raw Honey

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Chocolate Chip Cookie

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More than a little impressed by Bæst, Christian Puglisi’s nearby ode to Charcuterie, Cheese and Pizza, it was thanks to Leckerbaer being on Summer break that Wednesday Breakfast plans once again saw the Bike pointed towards Nørrebro, a stop at Mirabelle not quite as pleasant as the experience at any of the Chef’s other restaurants thanks to severely disinterested service but the food every bit as good as expected.

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Offering three-meals daily, early hours allowing the kitchen to focus on Sourdough production for Bæst, relæ and Manfred’s while also using that same Starter to fashion a handful of Pastries and Loaves, it was just past 09h00 that a seat was taken alongside two visitors from Sweden at the back of the restaurant, the male half of the wait-staff quickly stopping by with a menu while his female counterpart sauntered around the room stonefaced, neither of them appearing to be particularly motivated by a 25% filled dining room and just a trickle of take-away window activity.

Taking Puglisi’s expected approach to doing things the ‘right’ way, both the menu and in-store signage reading like his “Book of Ideas” as it described concepts of cool fermentation in the production of Rye Bread and slowly raised Heritage Øland Wheat Flour used to create a collection of Croissants, it was after a lengthy wait as the two clerks chatted that the two most recently seated tables were greeted simultaneously, a few questions related to the “Pastry of the Day” and Oatmeal answered with the eventual order 173DKK for Two Pastries, a bowl of Yogurt, Coffee and a Cookie.

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Serving items as they are readied, most pre-made or simple in assemblage including a few sous-vide Egg plates, it was with a cup of nicely balanced brew from Coffee Collective in hand that two Croissants were carefully examined, the all-Butter version golden crisp on the exterior with an inside showing evidence of Sourdough bubbles disrupting typical lamination patterns while the one topped in Almond Paste and Confectioner’s Sugar was good but not ‘great’ thanks to a bit too much filling which rendered the bottom a touch soft in texture.

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Rarely one to order a ‘Parfait’ at Breakfast, but so impressed by Bæst’s Stracciatella that it seemed pertinent to taste Puglisi’s stab at fresh Yogurt, it would be a fool’s folly for anyone to pass on the sizable 55DKK Bowl served with Housemade Granola full of dried Berries and a jar of Raw Honey, the nearly stick-a-spoon-up-straight texture sour with a pronounced grassiness well met by toasted Grains, Seeds and Brown Sugar while the Chocolate Chip Cookie to follow was not quite as impressive as that at 108, but still quite good with melted discs of Dark Chocolate used in place of the traditional Chips giving it a smooth and balanced texture.

http://mirabelle-bakery.dk/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Coffee Collective, Copenhagen, Croissant, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Mirabelle, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Meyer’s Bageri, Frederiksberg DK

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Meyer’s Bageri

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Butter Croissant

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Tebirke

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Rhubarb Croissant

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Spandauer

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Kanelsnurre

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Now offered stateside at New York’s Great Northern Food Hall, though the concepts appear to be quite different based on a single visit to each, Meyers Bageri at Gammel Kongevej 103 in Frederiksberg kicked off Wednesday in Copenhagen with five Pastries enjoyed at an outdoor table, the small shop one of no less than five in the Metropolitan Area along with the Madhus and Delis from the same team.

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Originally opened in 2010 by Claus Meyer, a founding father of The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto along with noma’s René Redzepi, Meyer’s Bageri brings the artisan concepts of the movement to the masses by way of Breads and Pastries produced exclusively from Organic Produce and Grains grown in Denmark and surrounding Countries, each bakery open at 07h00 daily to tempt diners with items made of everything from seasonal Fruits to stone-ground Rye and toasted Poppy Seeds.

Baking all items on site at each storefront, no central facility or commissary kitchen sending pre-made goods in each morning, it was with one baker visibly rolling out dough that three guests entered the small space mere moments after opening and allowing the others to go first as choices were debated it was not long before counter was reached, a pleasant young woman bagging the lot only to have it quickly unloaded just a few meters away for tasting, first bites of a Croissant showing it to be a bit more ‘doughy’ than most, though the edge baked up golden-crisp with the rich flavor of butter evenly distributed throughout the interior.

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Additionally offering freshly ground Flour and free Sourdough Starters to those who bring their own Jar, an impressive practice considering how closely guarded most American Bakeries keep their secrets until it can be exploited by way of a Cookbook, it was after the Croissant that yet another look was taken at a Poppyseed topped Tebirke, the top layer shattering to the tooth and flaking to the ground with plenty of nuttiness that plays well off the light sweetness of a layer of Remonce.

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Moving on to sweeter selections, the same great base as those above used to fashion a tangy Rhubarb “Croissant” and a Custard Spandauer topped in cracked Hazelnuts, both of them still warm and thus only partially set with great egginess amidst the flaky layers, it was finally Meyer’s Cinnamon Roll that shined even brighter than the rest, a heavily kneaded coil even more elastic than the version served in New York showing off with bright spicy notes and a perfect chew to the ‘skin’ not unlike that of a good Bagel.

https://www.meyersmad.dk/english/the-meyers-companies/meyers-bageri/

Posted in Breakfast, Copenhagen, Croissant, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Frederiksberg, Meyer’s Bageri, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

CLOU, Copenhagen DK

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CLOU

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William Pear Nectar

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Oyster, Olive Oil, Oscietra Caviar

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Olive, Parmesan

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Foie Gras and Date

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The Sous’ Mother’s Flatbread, Crema di Lardo, Olive Oil

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Brown Crab, Cucumber, Sea Salad, Vanilla, Mint

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Blue Mussel Flan, Thyme, Rossini’s Oscietra Caviar

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Violet Artichoke Ravioli, Dried Corn, Orange Zest, Aged Cheese

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Cocoa Crusted Turbot, Lobster ‘Cappuccino’

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Quail, Dried Fruits, Peas, Foie Gras

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4-year Comte, Olive Oil, Strawberry Jam, Black Pepper, Seed Crackers

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Lime, Banana, Dark Rhum, Yoghurt

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Crepe Suzette, Grand Marnier, Orange, Apricot, Caramel

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Passion Fruit, Puffed Sugar

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Vanilla, Macadamia

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Coffee, Balsamico

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Not entirely sold on one of the spaces selected for Dinner, reviews running the gamut from gushing to downright disappointing, it was on the word of a local that the decision was made to switch to CLOU on Tuesday evening, the Restaurant at Borgergade 16 offering a fifteen course Chef’s Tasting for 1200DKK that stretched on and on for almost 210-minutes with some of the food actually quite good, but most of the plates merely fair to middling.

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Originally opened in 2012 as a combination Importer/Wine Shop and Restaurant by two brothers, the first two now separated since 2014 even though the space originally received a Michelin Star in 2013, CLOU is now run by Chef Jonathan K. Berntsen and a kitchen that seems to approach New Nordic ideas by way of Italy, the space divided into two rooms decorated in bold wallpaper offsetting the typical woods and whites of Fine Dining with a staff that tries a little *too* hard to be formal.

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Still a fairly wine-focused establishment, a fact that will not be lost on those who do not imbibe as the service offered around wine is far more fawning than that for food which is merely presented with a quick smile and hasty retreat to more interesting guests speaking at volumes fortified by alcohol, it was after discussing allergies and intolerances that the meal started off with a trio of Canapes including a laser-cut Egg filled with Duck Liver Mousse and pureed Date alongside an Olive Financier buried in Parmesan plus an Oyster topped in Olive Oil and Caviar, all of it just fine but not particularly memorable save for the fact that the ideas would be replicated at the end of the meal.

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Opting for a bottle of William Pear Nectar and Still Water to accompany the Food, both a bit more expensive than average amongst the Michelin Stars of Copenhagen, it was with a large round of warm Bread that menu course four was announced, The Sous’ Mother’s Flatbread somewhat reminiscent of Focaccia with a thicker Crust imbued with Olives and Herbs alongside Calvi Olive Oil and Crema di Lardo.

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At this point introduced to the first of several service delays, the fact that the restaurant was less than 1/4 full making both the expediting and generally unengaging service particularly off-putting for solo diners left to stare at the walls or their smartphones, it was almost twenty minutes before a dish of Brown Crab hidden beneath Mint, Cucumber and Sea Beans was presented, the flavor of the Crustacean mostly lost in the mix and therefore largely wasted while the follow-up of Blue Mussel Flan in Thyme Broth with more Caviar packed a briny punch beneath a frankly unnecessary “net” of Seaweed.

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At this point already nearing the menu’s midpoint, the fifteen ‘courses’ in reality more like seven including Cheese plus Canapes, Mignardises and Pre-Dessert, a single Raviolo proved to be the night’s first great dish as it placed roasted Violet Artichoke in the setting of cracked Corn, Citrus and grated Cheese, the flavors all finding balance with an up-front sweetness dissipating into an earthy linger that led into a generous filet of Turbot ‘crusted’ with Coffee and Cocoa in a bath of foamy Lobster Bisque.

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Again hitting a service snag before the main entrée, a full thirty minutes of listening to the room’s primary server chat with an inebriated English couple across the room spent fighting off sleep, it was as the clock neared 22h00 that a dish of Foie and Foremeat stuffed Quali was presented alongside a sauce of Dried Fruit and Fresh Peas, a dish similar to that of Le Cirque back home with far less finesse followed by 48-month Comte that would have been just fine on its own, but was instead compromised with Strawberry Jam plus Black Pepper and a liberal pour of Olive Oil.

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Cleansing the palate with a refreshing Banana Sorbet atop powdered Lime and Yogurt perfumed by Rum before waiting a full forty minutes for Dessert, the drunk couple now gone and the clock approaching 23h00, it was as the boozy “Crepe Suzette” was presented that the Check was also requested, the Dessert no more than two bites and nowhere near as interesting as that served at Alchemist the following day with the meal coming to a close in a trio that looked much like the amuses, an idea that is no longer clever as it has been done so many times elsewhere and all the less impressive as the kitchen ignored a request for no Passion Fruit, though the Coffee and Balsamic Egg was better than either of the menu’s actual desserts.

http://restaurant-clou.dk

Posted in Bread Basket, CLOU, Coffee, Copenhagen, Crab, Denmark, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, Lobster, Pork, Restaurant Clou, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Sweet Valentine, Copenhagen DK

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Sweet Valentine

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Raspberry Meringue

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Apple-Almond Cake

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Carrot Cake

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Kartoffelkager

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Chocolate Chip Hazelnut Cookie

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Returning from Louisiana Museum in Humlebæk, a one hour bus ride from Copenhagen that is worth every penny and minute, it was with nearly three hours until dinner that the coach pulled into Nørreport, another perfect opportunity to stop into nearby Torvehallen for a snack, this time paying a visit to Sweet Valentine where the staff was beginning to clean up for the evening but more than happy to make a sale from their remaining products.

One of the few places in the market that closes on Mondays, but open from beginning until end of Torvehallen’s business hours Tuesday through Sunday, Sweet Valentine features the work of Marianne Valentine who has been called one of Denmark’s best producers of Wedding Cakes, and whether one is shopping for a custom job from the offsite bakery or something quick to brighten their day the collection of products is one worth investigating closely as the fairly basic display does little to convey their quality.

Offering a wide range of items, everything from Cookies and modern Cakes to Danish classics, Pies and Scones available depending on the day, it was just past 17h00 that guests were greeted by a young man and woman tucked behind glass cases and although the selection had been somewhat depleted over the previous seven hours the remainder was still quite inviting, a tasting of five items starting off with a rosy Meringue wrapped around Raspberry Jam, the exterior giving way with a crisp break to an interior that was soft, sweet and sticky.

Seated at a small table towards the market’s center aisle, enough room for two at most, it was with the rest of the items unbagged that the tasting continued by way of a Chocolate Chip and Hazelnut Cookie that was unfortunately far too dry to be enjoyed without a beverage, the Danish Potato Cake, based on shape and not name, called Kartoffelkager a far more memorable investment as the 35DKK Cake topped in Cocoa Powder was moist yet light with a layer of Yellow Cake topped in Vanilla Pastry Cream and Marzipan.

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Best known from her time on a Danish version of Cake Wars where she worked as a judge, it seemed completely irrational to visit Sweet Valentine without tasting some of Chef Marianne’s market slices, none of the typical ‘wedding’ options available at this time but not really an issue in the face of a dense and mellow Apple-Almond Square or the sort of Carrot Cake that those who prefer spice to sweet are likely to fall in love with as the thin layer of Frosting is little more than a linger atop lofty notes of Cinnamon, Clove, Ginger and Anise.

http://www.sweetvalentine.dk/Forside

Posted in Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Sweet Valentine, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Aamann’s Deli & Take Away, Copenhagen DK

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Aamann’s Deli & Take Away

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Eggs with Smoked Salmon, Raw and Pickled Fennel, Tarragon Emulsion, Rye Crumbs

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Grilled Sirloin, Bearnaise Cream, Baked Tomatoes, Pickled Cucumber, Crispy Potato

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Queen Victoria Cheese, Strawberry Marmalade, Vanilla, Roasted Almonds

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Told that a visit to Copenhagen without eating Smørrebrød would be sacrilege, the open-face Sandwich on Rye a staple of Danish culture and seemingly sold at no less than three stores on every block in the city, the question became exactly *where* to taste this national delicacy, the name Aamann’s Etablissement frequently brought up based on ingredient quality.

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Originally opened in 2006 as a Take Away Counter, owner Adam Aamann gaining notoriety over the ensuing years thanks to a focus on making many of the restaurant’s ingredients including Creams and Marmalades as well as Schnapps and Vinegars in house, it was after lunch elsewhere that a visit was paid to Aamann’s before taking the bus to Louisiana Museum of Art in Humlebæk, a twenty minute wait at the Etablissement circumvented by walking next door to Aamann’s Deli & Take Away where a slightly smaller menu is offered to go, though there too seating was completely filled with diners speaking exclusively Danish.

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Clearly as popular as rumor would suggest, Smørrebrød offered between 50-60DKK with an extra five added for dining in, it was after a few minutes perusing the menu that a young server approached from where he was busy making sandwiches with another staff member, the request for three ‘pieces’ at a cost of 180DKK quoted as ‘just a few minutes’ with a branded box and bag quickly packed up and taken to a small table on the outside pavement.

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Offering just cold Sandwiches to-go, pan fried Fish and warm Pate sold as dine-in only options along with a demi-size 4-piece combo chosen by the kitchen for 155DKK, it was with intentions to try Seafood, Beef and something sweet that the sampling started off with hardboiled Eggs and Smoked Salmon topped in Fennel plus Tarragon Cream, the Fish unfortunately thicker and more ‘firm’ than expected with anise notes of both Fennel and Tarragon overwhelming everything but the Bread beneath them.

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Varying the menu seasonally, though certain signatures only change a bit, the next Smørrebrød tasted featured thinly sliced Grass-Fed Beef topped in dots of Bearnaise Cream, Baked Tomatoes, Pickles and Potato strings, the Meat itself slightly sinewy but well-complimented by everything around it while the Queen Victoria with Strawberry Marmalade, a hint of Vanilla and crushed Almonds was fine, the makings of a Cheese Plate on Rye, but no greater than the sum of its individual ingredients.

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https://aamanns.dk/book-bord/?lang=en

Posted in Aamann’s Deli, Aamann’s Deli & Take Away, Aamann’s Etablissement, Copenhagen, Denmark, Food, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Era Ora, Copenhagen DK

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Era Ora

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Marinated Zucchini, Bell Pepper / Tapioca, Licorice, Mint, Sesame, Artichoke / Turnip, Vinegar, Porcini, Garlic, Cilantro

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Durum Wheat Sourdough

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Langoustine, Celeriac

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Ricotta, Pancetta, Tomato, Wild Fennel

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Wild Boar Bresaola, Jerusalem Artichoke, Sorrel

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Hazelnuts, Pecorino Mousse, Fava Beans

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Halibut Loin and Sausage, Almonds, Prickly Pear, Bell Pepper, Frigitello

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Baccala Ravioli, Confit Tomatoes, Crispy Chickpeas, Arugula

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Fried Veal Sirloin, Zabaione, Leeks, Beans, Vinegar Reduction

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Yogurt Semifreddo, Fresh and Creamed Peaches, Mint, Nasturtium, Madagascar Chocolate, Cinnamon Biscuit

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The first Michelin starred Restaurant in Copenhagen, no small feat in a city that at one time contained San Pellegrino’s “World’s Best Restaurant” Era Ora is more than a place to eat, it is an act of resistance and commitment in an era where nearly everything else of note has allowed “New Nordic” to change the way it’s Chefs cook and think.

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Opened in 1983 and currently toqued by Antonio Di Criscio, the family owned and operated space in Christianshavn found along one of the area’s canals on the opposite side of Torvegade from kadeau, Era Ora defines its style of cooking as “Italian Inner Fusion,” nearly 90% of the ingredients including basics like Flour brought in from Italy to focus on influences dating back to the Romans and Greeks with a focus on creating new ideas with ancient roots, the idea operating without regard for Copenhagen’s Cold and Dark Winters or all-out embrace of ideas such as pickling and foraging.

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Open Lunch and Dinner Monday through Saturday save for five Holidays, the current manager a youthful American Born Dane from California, it was on Tuesday afternoon that a total of only three guests dining at separate tables made their way into the restaurant decorated in Peach, Green, Floral Images and luxe Textiles, things admittedly ‘slow’ on weekday afternoons despite a relative bargain 598DKK 4-course Chef’s Tasting that becomes around nine plates plus Bread when accounting for Canapes and Amuses.

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Describing ‘inner fusion’ as the idea that although distinctly “Italian” the food at Era Ora attempts to put ingredients from several regions on one plate, no specific style embraced across dishes of Antipasta, Pasta, Fish, Meat, Cheese or Dessert or a Wine list nearly 600 Bottles deep and almost exclusively from Italy, every meal at Era Ora begins by way of an Anti-pasti platter incorporating several big flavors, on this day a trio of Marinated Zucchini with Bell Pepper, a Tapioca Crisp perfumed in Licorice plus Mint and a pickled Turnip smeared in Garlic all vibrant and fresh with a piece of robustly crusted Sourdough served without Butter or Oil quick to follow.

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Explaining that Bread is intended only for scarpetta at Era Ora, the open crumb certainly well suited to the task of mopping up elegant Sauces across the plates to follow, it was next atop four stones that Chef Di Criscio welcomed diners, the trio of Crisps each showing off a different type of Grain from Italy and topped with everything from Raw Langoustine to housemade Ricotta and Wild Boar Bresaola shot and cured by the staff, the final bite a small pot of Sheep’s Milk Cheese topped in Hazelnuts atop mashed Fava Beans.

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Italian for ‘about time,’ a concept embraced by both Era Ora’s cuisine and art displaying the sun and moon in the foyer, it was perhaps forty minutes after seating that the first proper course of the menu was presented, the Manager playing the role of server and describing a flavor profile that started sweet and ended with a bit of spice, the fact that Opuntia grows in Italy previously unknown but the gel of its Fruit doing a beautiful job of highlighting the Halibut while also mellowing the Peppers imported from Tuscany.

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Well portioned for a tasting menu, each course enough to give diners an opportunity to explore ingredients on their own and then in combination, course two was a fortunate find for those who live in parts of the world where Salt Cod is not considered a delicacy, the three Black Raviolis stuffed just short of bursting with creamy filling and a lot of brine that found itself well met by confit Tomatoes, a light Cream Sauce ringed in Parsley Oil and pan-seared Chickpeas.

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Sopping up every last drop of Sauce from the Pasta and accenting to a continuation of lunch, the kitchen clearly working well beneath capacity and thus happy to fire plates at a pace dictated by diners, the day’s entrée was served with a story about how importing Veal allows the restaurant to skirt Denmark’s Laws forbidding the butchering of young Animals, a thick sirloin lightly fried and fork-tender on a backdrop of Egg Yolks and Vinegar plus sautéed Leeks and Haricot Verts.

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Taking a pass on Cheese, the 100DKK Supplement not a favorite as offered topped in Chipotle and Parsley, it was with a dish featuring Peaches imported the day prior that the meal ended, a disc of tangy Semifreddo anchoring ingredients including Ice Cream, Nasturtium Flowers, Chocolate Mousse and Mint, the individual flavors pleasant and an ability to mix and match interesting but none of it really congruent in the way that the dishes before it had been and thus an unfortunate way to end what was otherwise a noteworthy meal in a Restaurant that stands out in a dining scene that sometimes seems flawed by conformity.

http://era-ora.dk

Posted in Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Era Ora, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, Pork, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The Corner at 108, Copenhagen DK

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The Corner at 108

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Filter Coffee

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Morning Bread with Cultured Creamed and Cheese

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Cured Beef Fat Bread

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Blueberry Currant Brioche

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Warm Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Incredulous that 108 could have been so bad for Dinner, everything from the disinterested service, high prices and poorly prepared dishes bordering on offensive when considering the names attached, it was with a high degree skepticism that plans were kept to visit “The Corner” on Tuesday morning, Renee Redzepi’s 08h00 to 24h00 space for Coffee, Pastries, Wine and Share Plates proving far more pleasant in terms of the items offered though prices were again fairly steep.

Living up to its name in that it truly is ‘the corner’ of 108 Strandgade, the Bar and seating area separated from the scene of last night’s culinary crimes by a padlocked gate next to the restroom tucked under a stone archway, it was just minutes after opening that several guests filed in to find a trio of Pastries plus Loaves of Bread laid out beneath a list of Filtered Coffee and Espresso drinks, items ranging between 30-40DKK with piping hot Cookies loaded with gooey Chocolate Chips soon to emerge from the kitchen at 20DKK each.

Choosing to take a seat and stay a while, the Wi-Fi signal here stronger than at the hotel, it was no more than a few moments after ordering that Coffee was brought to the table where it joined a sliced Whole Grain Roll paired to 108’s Cultured Cream and Semi-Hard Danish Cheese, the flavor every bit on par with that of the Sourdough from next door that is also sold at the Corner from 11h30 until close daily.

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Already heartened that this would be a more memorable experience than the Michelin Starred spot, a simple look at the quality of the goods leading one to anticipate their quality, it was on the recommendation of a young Asian man that a braid entitled “Cured Beef Fat Bread” was tasted next, the idea to use Tallow in place of Butter during the lamination process achieving a similar degree of crispiness with a sapor not unlike Bone Marrow while the Blueberry Currant Brioche ate a lot like Bread Pudding, the custard soaked cubes soft on the inside and crisp around the edges beneath a sticky and sour Glaze.

https://108.dk/the-corner/

Posted in 108, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, The Corner, The Corner at 108, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Sankt Peders Bageri, Copenhagen DK

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Sankt Peders Bageri

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Seeded Rye

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Grov Birkes

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Hindbaer Snitter

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Frosted Cinnamon Snegl

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Custard Danish

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Cinnamon Sugar Swirl

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Located in central Copenhagen, reported weekend hours listed online proving untrue on Saturday and thus leading to a second trip in ten hours to Lagkagehuset, it was finally on America’s birthday that a visit was paid to Sankt Peders Bageri, the independently owned space with a shabby chic interior proving equal to any of the city’s more prominent names in terms of the Baked Goods with service that is more personable and clearly rewarded by significant support from locals.

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Originally opened in 1632 and having undergone a few facelifts and changes in ownership during 385 intervening years, the current group now in charge for the last seventy, guests visiting Sankt Peders Stræde 29 on weekdays between 06h00 and 17h30 will immediately be struck by just how homey the space feels with its combination of picture frames and low-slung couches, everything about the place saying “sit down and stay awhile,” though many Danes on their way to work seem to prefer the take-away option.

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Managed by two women, one merely a teenager with a middle-aged male baker bringing fresh items from the back throughout the course of a thirty minute stay, it was just past 07h00 that the counter was approached with a request for six items, a ‘some now and some later’ approach quickly turning into bites of everything as all but one was still warm, first tastes of the Seeded Rye sour and spicy in all the right ways with a good chew while the Grov Birkes was flaky and light around a light smear of Remonce Filling.

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Next deciding to try one of the Pop-Tart reminiscent squares seen at almost every Bakery in Copenhagen, the Hindbaer Snitter’s exterior sort of like a frosted Shortbread Cookie wrapped around Raspberry Jam, it was setting aside most of this overly sweet item that the two types of Cinnamon Roll were investigated, the one soft and much like the versions seen elsewhere with a whole lot of Butter but not much sweetness save for the Frosting while the other was almost like a sugary Biscuit swirled around Cinnamon Streusel, the Danish saved for last one of the most memorable in the city thanks to the light Pastry and not-yet-set Custard.

Posted in Breakfast, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Sankt Peders Bageri, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mr. Churros, Copenhagen DK

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Mr. Churros

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Waffle with Chocolate

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Cinnamon Sugar Churros with Cajeta

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Told by a server one day later that it is by law that most of the shopping in Copenhagen closes at 18h00 while restaurants outside of Fast Food establishments are required to stop service by midnight it was just past 20h50 that a visit was paid to Mr. Churros at Nørrebrogade 41, the location passed by several times on bike without notice thanks to ongoing construction luring diners in with a promise of “Lavish Delights made with love.”

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Originally opened in January of 2017, the doors unlocked at 12h00 daily and closing at 21h00 Sunday through Wednesday with an extra hour added on weekends, Mr. Churros can best be described as a bare bones operation focused on sweet Street Food favorites from Spain, Belgium and France with straight from the jar toppings including liquid Chocolate, Caramel, Sprinkles and Soft-Serve from a Mix.

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Featuring a big mural on one wall, counter against the other and a kitchen at the back, just one server who did not seem amused by the late arrival of three parties only ten minutes before she was to depart, leaving a messy counter and used Oil behind in the fryer behind, it was nonetheless with a flat face that she accepted 30DKK for any of the menu’s three items, the Crepe stone thankfully not required as it had already been powered down but the five people still requesting two Waffles and four orders of Cinnamon Donuts before she could leave.

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Playing American pop tunes a little too loud, the feel of the space fairly happy despite the young woman’s sour demeanor, it was after being asked not to take a seat because “I’m closed” that guests stood waiting for her to clip measured pieces of Dough into the fryer while taking to the back where Waffles are made on an Iron not dissimilar to what one may have at home, each item offered with a choice of two toppings though the store was already sold out of Vanilla Ice Cream.

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Presumably already putting in a full 9-hours of frying with the Oil, possibly more as the young lady walked out on the heels of her last guest, it was after a few photos were snapped that hurried work was tasted, the unevenly cooked Churros served in a sizable portion well coated in Cinnamon Sugar proving competent if not memorable even with thin Caramel Sauce dripping down their sides while the Waffle was fluffy but flaccid, the lack of a crispy edge noteworthy compared to those found in the shops of Brussels, though Chocolate liberally squeezed from a bottle was not.

https://www.facebook.com/mrchurroscph/

Posted in Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Mr. Churros, Vacation, Waffle, Waffles Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Kiin Kiin, Copenhagen DK

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Kiin Kiin

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Cold Lemon Tea

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Lotus Root Chips with Lime Sugar

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Eatable Bag with Cashew, Lime Leaf and Dried Plums

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Soya Meringue with Wasabi Cream

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Mian Kam with Spinach Leaf, Ginger, Sweet Chili, Red Onion, Eggplant, Lime, Tamarind

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Satay of Chicken Skin, Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Ginger, Apple, Cumin

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Steamed Egg, Bonito, Miso Soup, Garlic Chip

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Moo Ping

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Chiang Mai Sausage

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Iced Tea with Jasmine and Lychee

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Tom Yum Lobster Soup with Tofu Noodles

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Ginger and Lemongrass Cracker

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Prawn Bread

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Salad with White Fish, Mint and Coriander topped in Spicy Marinade of Chili and Garlic

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Frozen Red Curry with Langoustine

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Fried Foie Gras with Plum Wine Sauce and Ginger

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Tomka Chicken Ballotine with Coconut, Ginger and Asparagus served with Rice

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Massaman Curry with Potato, Lovage, Butter and Kiin Kiin ‘Chips’

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Lime Fromage with Holy Basil

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Banana Cake with Salted Coconut Ice Cream

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In a city whose modern dining scene is built on foraging, preservation and the sort of Artisan practices that are rarely seen in 2017 it may seem strange that one of Copenhagen’s most well-regarded restaurants is a Modernist interpretation of Thai Cuisine by two Danes, Lertchai and Henrik Yde-Andersen’s Kiin Kiin continually considered one of the world’s best for over a decade.

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Originally opened in 2006, a love for Thai food cultivated through several years in the country giving its founding Chefs the sort of exposure and assurance to launch a unique concept in the emerging Nørrebro neighborhood long before Christian Puglisi turned the area into one of the trendiest places to drink and dine in all of Denmark, Kiin Kiin is currently toqued by Holstebro-raised Dak Laddaporn who learned to cook at the elbow of her Thai Mother, a molecular influence only embraced later during apprenticeships throughout Copenhagen and her current menu a nine-course affair that actually becomes more than double that when accounting for snacks served in the foyer.

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Decorated in religious artifacts, orchids and woven textures, guests entering on the ground floor immediately offered a seat on rattan chairs where snacks including dehydrated Lotus Root with Lime Salt, refreshing Citrus Tea and an “eatable bag” of Thai flavors await, the scene at Kiin Kiin is set early with servers aflutter, the set-menu presented largely for perusal and drink pairings decisions, though by-the-glass selections of Juices or Wine are also available.

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Not exactly a comfortable way to sit for those of any height, the recessed chairs putting ones knees at nearly eye level if leaning back, snacks in the lobby continue by way of crisp Meringues with Wasabi Cream revealed by a swirling ‘magic trick’ before progressing into a Spinach Leaf Wrap with light heat, the “Satay” of Chicken Skin topped in Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Ginger and Apple the meal’s first memorable bite with compelling texture and temperature components as strong notes of Cumin come first before dissipating into a sweet finish.

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Smiling at shaved flakes of Bonito dancing atop what was essentially reconstructed Chawnmushi next, the Moo Ping and Chiang Mai to follow both served hot with big flavors of Char and Curry, respectively, it was here that guests were led upstairs to tables tightly packed into a dining room that was unfortunately both warm and stuffy, the Kiin Kiin cookbook present on each and every table to pass the time as courses were brought out as readied by the kitchen with wait times often substantial.

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One of the few Michelin starred restaurants in Copenhagen open on Mondays, the reservation a tough one even today thanks to tourists as neighboring tables on all sides were heard speaking English, Kiin Kiin’s proper menu began by way a trio of diverse flavors including a Ginger and Lemongrass Rice Cracker and delicate Prawn Toast alongside a bowl of Tom Yum Soup into which guests are encouraged to unload a syringe of liquid Tofu, the hot Broth quickly cooking the ‘Noodles,’ though the combination of such a large bowl and small syringe made for a bit too much liquid and not enough substance.

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Requesting a glass of Iced Tea to go with the meal, the staff inexplicably never asking if the table wanted Water and eventually such an odd situation that it became a point *not* to ask just so the surcharge could be refused at the end, course two was served as a big pile of Cotton Candy that was vanished by way of a tableside pour of Chili and Garlic Marinade, the dish described as spicy perhaps “Thai Level 2” by American Standards though the Citrus-cured Fish in a tangle of Mint and Greens seemed to benefit from the subtlety as it allowed diners to taste each of the well-sourced components individually as well as in combination.

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Presenting a Kiin Kiin ‘signature’ next, the Nitrogen frozen Red Curry creating a billow of cold steam that was soon expelled from nostrils atop a snappy Langoustine hidden beneath a blanket of Vegetables with a bit of Citrus and Fish Sauce, it was here that diners were given the choice as to whether or not to add the 155DKK “Extravagant” supplement of seared Duck Liver in foamy Plum Wine Sauce, the expectedly unctuous Foie Gras finding its foil in a liberal grating of fresh Ginger.

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Thankful for small portions to this point, Chef Laddaporn’s riff on Thai Coconut Soup served with a round of White Rice to be added at the diner’s discretion to a bowl also containing Chicken Breast stuffed with Forcemeat, Asparagus and crispy Vegetable threads, those fearing too much heat from the Massaman Curry will be happy to know that Denmark’s idea of spicy is quite different from most places, the deconstructed and reconstructed dish of Potatoes, Lovage, Coconut and Tamarind beautiful in its balance and complex in textures thanks to the individualized presentation of its components.

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Transitioning from savory to sweet by way of a steel ball flipped open to reveal Lime Curd and Meringue on one side with Citrus Cream Cheese topped in Leaves of Holy Basil on the other, a refreshing duo whether enjoyed separately or mixed, it was only after a nearly thirty minute pause that dinner came to a sudden end by way of Banana Cake with Salted Coconut Ice Cream served in deconstructed textures on wood, the Cookbook’s suggestion that “we always serve a large selection of after dinner sweets” instead replaced by just the check, a fairly odd decision considering the parade of bites that the evening began with.

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http://www.kiin.dk/

Posted in Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, Kiin Kiin, Lobster, Pork, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

108, Copenhagen DK

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108

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Sourdough, Danish Salt, Whipped ‘Cream’

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Raw Lamb, Last Year’s Pickles

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Brown Beech Mushrooms, Kelp, Smoked Egg Yolk Sauce

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Braised Pork, Cream, Spring Truffle

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Sorbet of Wild Black Currants, Preserved Pine, Hazelnut Milk

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Never particularly wowed by photos from others at noma, though I have no doubt of Rene Redzepi’s passion or skill, it was with mild curiosity that a table was booked at 108 on Monday evening, the menu small enough that a few plates could be tasted without filling up before dinner at Kiin Kiin at 19h30.

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Not claiming, pretending or attempting to be noma in any way, the idea instead an a la carte means for the Chefs to show off seasonal and preserved produce collected throughout the region by way simple plates that change day to day, 108 is named for its address on Strandgade across from the newly launched Barr that replaced the former “World’s #1 Restaurant,” the dining room opening each day at 17h00 though ‘The Corner’ next door is opened morning and afternoon with a smaller menu including Pastries, Sandwiches, Wine and Coffee.

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Toqued by Kristian Baumann and situated in big room of blonde wood, concrete and oversized lightbulbs with an American Classic Rock Soundtrack, the service almost a bit *too* casual at times as waiters were plainly seen strolling around checking their cellular phones in the dining room, it was immediately as the restaurant opened that several guests checked in at the hostess’ stand, a two-top looking across the space proving comfortable enough and found adorned with enough silverware to last three courses.

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Offering just a dozen items nightly, at least two of them large format dishes intended to be shared, it was after declining wine that three savories and a Dessert were requested, the water sold at a surcharge much like elsewhere and the total bill nearly $100USD for what was not only underwhelming food, but not a whole lot of it.

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Starting off with Sourdough Bread and a spread described as “Whipped Cream,” the culturing process stopped early to allow for a lighter texture and robust sourness that went well with the surprisingly dense loaf, course one was on the table no more than five minutes after the order was placed, a finely ground round of Raw Lamb served atop Pickles pleasant in terms of texture but almost completely devoid of taste, a total lack of seasoning leaving the whole presentation sort of one note and the Protein itself lacking Lamb’s characteristic depth.

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Only describing plates by ingredients, no real indication of preparation entailed, the next two savories could probably best be described as Bar Snacks at the cost of 50DKK per bite, the Tempura Brown Beech Mushrooms dusted in Kelp with Smoked Egg Yolk Sauce not close to as interesting as the unfried version at Geist that afternoon while the Braised Pork was dry and packed into oily Fritters topped with Cream and modestly flavored Spring Truffles.

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Not particularly wowed by any of the Dessert descriptions, but willing to look for some reprieve in the one that sounded the least contrived, “Sorbet of Wild Black Currants, Preserved Pine and Hazelnut Milk” once again showed 108 offering mostly one-note flavors, the little frozen discs not particularly pleasant as they were quite acidic and icy while the Milk was served entirely unsweetened with the Pine coming through as a faint mint flavor at the end.

https://108.dk/restaurant/

Posted in 108, Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Pork, Truffle, Truffles, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Geist, Copenhagen DK

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Geist

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Sourdough Rolls with Danish Butter and Fleur de Sel

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Enoki Mushrooms with Yuzu and Egg Yolk Sauce

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Salted and Dried Breast of Young Duck with Cherries

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Grilled Avocado with Green Almonds and Curry

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Ricotta Gnocchi with Fermented White Asparagus and Summer Truffle Mornay

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Charred Quail with Summer Truffle

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Zucchini Flowers stuffed with Cod and Pistachio

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Heart of Lamb with Red Grapes and Wood Sorrel

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Blackberries with Oellebroed

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Caramelized Bread with Vanilla Ice Cream

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Originally opened at Kongens Nytorv 8 in 2011, an enormous room with a trendy vibe not far from Nyhavn clearly a luxury available to Chef Bo Bech thanks to his years as a Celebrity Chef on a Danish cooking program, Geist is one of the most polarizing restaurants in all of Copenhagen amongst those who travel and talk about such things, some calling the menu an a la carte alternative to relæ or noma while others seem to loath the place for feeling like a club and offering flavors that are underseasoned or too ‘simple’ to warrant their price-tag.

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Booked in the middle of a downpour, one of three experienced during an eight day trip to the Capital in July, it was mere moments before the a 12h00 reservation that several tourists huddled beneath the canopy were forced to part in order for guests to enter the restaurant, a hostess who also acted as waitress leading them to tables at the furthest end of a room that would never fill past 1/8 over the next three hours of dining, in reality probably a good thing as the kitchen’s expediting process is a mystery still to be solved with some items coming out hot-on-the-heels of that before it while others were subjected to wait times eclipsing thirty-five minutes.

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Without doubt a member of the ‘New Nordic’ way of thinking, though not as prone to foraging as Redzepi or Nørregaard nor as obsessed with processes as Puglisi, Bech’s menu features a fairly substantial number of plates each day for lunch and dinner, the ability to build one’s own tasting menu a novelty amidst Copenhagen’s best restaurants but one that is welcomed for those willing to share or those with a fairly substantial appetite.

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Perusing the menu while bearing in mind that reservations were pending for dinners at both 17h00 and 19h30, it was ignoring comments from the server that eight plates would be ‘too much food’ that an order was placed, her mistake actually adding one more that was served free of charge and the afternoon starting out with three-bite Sourdough Rolls served warm with Salted Butter.

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Rather wishing a seat near the kitchen had been offered, the open counter assuredly more interesting than raindrops falling on an empty patio and bumping beets playing overhead, it was just as a party of ten took a seat across the monochromatic space that course one arrived, a tangle of blanched Enoki Mushrooms glistening with Citrus and Egg Yolk an elegant way to awaken the tastebuds and quickly followed by house-cured Duck Breast sliced thin amongst a light drizzle of Balsamic and halved-Sour Cherries.

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Somehow mistaking the word Avocado for Gnocchi, odd as the Server spoke flawless English, it was after a short pause that Bech’s oft-photographed Curried Avocado with Raw Almonds arrived and eating far lighter than the average with an almost snappy texture and surprisingly light fragrance the dish was successful despite being slightly under-seasoned, exactly the opposite situation marring the Gnocchi that had actually been requested as the Dumplings were presented as a hide-and-seek amidst White Asparagus Tips beneath Truffled Mornay that was quite salty.

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Here hitting the first expediting snag, the fact that the large group was now receiving food along with a few other tables seeing a thirty minute gap before a simple grilled Quail with slices of Summer Truffle arrived, it was shortly after the Bones had been picked clean that the dish of the afternoon arrived, a trio of Squash Blossoms stuffed with Brandade in a pool of Pistachio Cream finding an elegant balance as the expected Fish flavor came across first only to dissipate quickly with a sweet and nutty linger.

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Opting against the Tartare presentations of 108, relæ and others when presenting Lamb it was instead with 1/8” thick slices of the beast’s Heart gently smoked and mixed with Grapes and Wood Sorrel that savories concluded, the flavors somewhat redundant in the setting of the Duck and left to be thought about for some time as a dessert of Blackberries and Rye Porridge took nearly twenty minutes arrive with another thirty-five separating the hoppy dish from a thin slice of French Toast soaked in Caramel and topped with creamy Vanilla Ice Cream.

http://restaurantgeist.dk/

Posted in Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Geist, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Truffle, Truffles, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Café Atelier September, Copenhagen DK

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Café Atelier September

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Butter Croissant

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Comte Cheese, Soft Boiled Egg, Rye Bread, Butter

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Yogurt, Zucchini Jam, Matcha, Granola

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Located at Gothersgade 30, a few steps up allowing for a privileged vantage of streets below, Atelier September is one of *those* places that everyone who visits Copenhagen talks about even though little about it appears to be noteworthy, a Monday morning breakfast visit just minutes before the arrival of a party of twenty giving a glimpse of why as the menu proves more ‘well edited’ than ‘limited’ with each of three items ordered proving worthwhile.

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An inhabitant of the same street since 1987 and easy to miss though frequently nearby as Gothersgade is a convenient throughway across the city with quick access to Nørreport and Torvehallerne, Café Atelier September was originally opened in the early 90s and although the space still contains an artist’s studio and galleries the focus of most visitors is on the Food created by Frederik Bille Brahe.

Another quick-service kitchen not unlike Mad & Kaffe, most of the items pre-made or quickly assembled which allows for a meal to be easily completed in less than half-an-hour even though many choose to stick around with Coffee in hand, diners at Café Atelier September are first greeted by the house Dog who will be happy to collect any crumbs as they approach the counter, housemade Rye and Croissants immediately tempting even before one takes a look at the menu lined with items including Eggs, Yogurt and even Avocado Toast.

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Serving lunch and breakfast daily, a 07h00 opening on Weekdays and later on Weekends with closure each day at 16h00, it was after being told of the large party that a chair was secured at the window before placing an order, the Croissant immediately taken to the seat and pulled apart with layers crackling and crumbs raining down, the interior buttery and soft with arching caverns of lamination.

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Enjoying Bread and Butter for the second time that morning, the housemade Rye as good as any in town and all the better with Danish Butter so fresh that beads of water came to the surface as it was cut, fans of Comte will be glad to know Atelier September uses wheels aged for greater than 24-months, the crystals not yet forming but the flavor pleasant and nutty just as it was in the Granola atop Cows-Milk Yogurt topped in Sugar-preserved Squash and a light dusting of Matcha powder.

http://www.atelierseptember.dk/

Posted in Atelier September, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Café Atelier September, Copenhagen, Croissant, Denmark, Food, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mad & Kaffe, Copenhagen DK

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Mad & Kaffe

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Fried Chorizo Sausage with BBQ Ketchup, Chicken Nuggets with Sweet and Sour Sauce, Blueberry Soy Yogurt with Housemade Muesli and Berries, Organic Vesterhavsost Cheese with Housemade Currant Jam, Organic Rye Bread and Sourdough Bread with Butter, Organic Cinnamon Bun with Chocolate, Organic Gluten Free Brownie

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With the 25% Sales Tax and focus on quality ingredients making most of Copenhagen’s dining fairly expensive compared to the rest of Europe it was admittedly a bit surprising when two people independently suggested Mad & Kaffe as one of the city’s best breakfasts, the choose your own adventure menu at a bargain price of 3 items for 78DKK, 5 for 120 and 7 for 148…or about what one would spend for a half-dozen pastries at Lagkagehuset.

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Opened in 2015 at Sønder Boulevard 68 in Vesterbro, a second location eastward toward the Airport opening since, it was just past nine o’clock that the bike was parked amidst many others outside a space that would soon be filled with 20-somethings on a non-Holiday Monday, most of them speaking Dutch and clearly local, though both the menu and service is available in English.

Essentially a quick fire kitchen, most of the Breakfast items easy to prepare or pre-made with Breads and Sweets outsourced or baked early, those dining at Mad & Kaffe are first given a table followed by a Checklist and a Pencil, the choices divided into sections including Dairy, Greens, Bakery, Meat & Fish or Treat of the Dairy with Eggs randomly filed under the first section and the total number of options around twenty.

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Self service for water, though most seemed to be lingering at tables over coffee and conversation, it was after some deliberation that the seven item choice was made with a 4/3 split towards Sweet, the wooden board arriving about fifteen minutes later with everything accounted for and first bites of the “Chorizo” a bit strange as meat had definite heat, though not the source typically found in the Mexican version with a texture more akin to a Hotdog than a housemade ‘Sausage.’

Taking a few bites of Bread before moving on, the thinly sliced Rye textural and dense while the Sourdough unfortunately seemed a little dry even with the packaged Butter, a Chicken “Nugget” that would actually be called a “Strip” or “Plank” Stateside was tasted next, the coating a spicy mix that imparted a slight nuttiness nothing like the Batter used back home and all the better for it, though the “Sweet and Sour Sauce” was more like American BBQ while that served with the Chorizo was sort of like Heinz mixed with Tabasco Sauce.

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Using Cheese as a sort of transition, the Danes’ love of Bread with a slice at Breakfast fairly obvious from a look at any morning counter or takeaway in town, the thick wedge of semi-hard Vesterhavsost provided a mild bit of sweetness while proving a pleasant foil to the Sour Currant Jam by its side, the Soy “Yogurt” to follow nicely flavored with Blueberries and creamy in texture though the Granola fell far short of the likes of Mirabelle or Grød.

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Sad to see the Kanelsnegl topped in a big dollop of Chocolate, the Pastry layers mostly fine though not as heavy in Butter or Cinnamon as others, Mad & Kaffe’s Gluten Free Brownie would turn out to be the most “American” of the trip, the flourless base eating a lot like Fudge beneath a layer of Ganache while the typical Danish “Brownie” more closely resembles a slice of Chocolate Cake.

http://www.madogkaffe.dk/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Mad & Kaffe, Mad and Kaffe, Pork, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,