Mezcal Old Fashion – Mezcal, Green Chartreuse, Espelette Pepper Syrup, Peychaud’s Bitters, Star Anise
Exotic Colada – Pineapple Juice, Orange Juice, Coconut, Mango Puree
King Crab – Potato Mousse, Osetra Caviar, Fish Soup Jelly, Tuile, Peppers, Zucchini
Goat Cheese – Popcorn Siphon, Red Onion and Balsamic Compote, Balsamic and Honey Chunks
Chicken – Pate en Croute, Aspic, Pickled Onions, Capers, Cornichon Mousse
Artichoke – Vegetable Broth, Tomato, Carrot, Fennel, Truffle Oil
Housemade Baguette – Salted Butter
Tian de Legumes – Onion Puree, Tomatoes, Zucchini and Eggplant Confit, Rosemary, Squash Blossom Tempura
Scallop – Herb and Sesame Crust, Sauteed Mushrooms, Sesame Oil, Oyster Sauce, Soy Sauce, Honey, Peas, Green Onion
Octopus – Purple Potato Shell, Confit Potatoes, Garlic, Parsley, Fennel Compote
Beef – Oxtail Croque Monsieur, Homemade Pain de Mie, Bone Marrow, Truffle Oil
Foie Gras – Crème Brulee, Duck Prosciutto, Ginger Bread, Pears, Allspice
16oz Snake River Kurobuta Pork Chop – Green Peppercorn and Acorn Salt Crust, Celery Root Puree, Pear Gelee, Pears
Applewood Smoked 18oz Choice Grass Fed Rib Eye – Potatoes, Turnips, Broccoli, Mushrooms
Double Espresso, Ice
La Banane – Bananas, Dark Chocolate Cake, Lychee Ice Cream, White Chocolate Cream, Caramel, Brown Butter Crisps
La Pomme – Puff Pastry, Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla Cream, Apple Terrine, Granny Smith Apple Gel, Salted Caramel Ice Cream
Mignardises – Ginger Chocolate Macaron, Chocolate Praline Sable
Found at the east end of The Center at Spring Mountain, inside the former confines of Chada Street, Partage is the second Restaurant from partners Yuri Szarzewski, Vincent Pellerin and Nicolas Kalpokdjian, the trio behind Eatt Gourmet Bistro describing their upscale concept as “the American dream of award winning French Chefs.”
Translated as “sharing,” appropriate in two ways as the team seeks to share their passion with patrons by way of what one server called “French Tapas,” it was immediately upon entering strip-mall doors that guests were greeted professionally, the young hostess first confirming reservations and then leading diners to a booth at room’s center before offering to snap a group photo.
Chic but not stuffy, a conversion from Thai Bistro to Modern French décor accomplished by clean lines and polished surfaces, it is from foyer to Chef’s Table and Wine Bar that the room flows nicely, Partage’s Private Dining Room even offering a projector-augmented experience complete with guest names and company logos, or varying animations for each plate.
Highly customizable, with 5, 7, and 9-course Tasting Menus offered in addition to a la carte items large or small, it was without delay that the decision was made to self-select the evening’s course, a total of thirteen plates covering roughly half of the Chefs’ current offerings and served alongside Cocktails plus Wine.
Allowing the kitchen and Mr. Kalpokdjian to determine the order of plates, a decision presumably dictated by two guest’s decision to opt for Wine Pairings, it was alongside a crisp White that King Crab got things started, an overzealous middle-age server pointing out every.single.element. of the dish with fingers nearly grazing Ingredients and the flavor largely delicious, though both a miniscule dollop of Caviar and Gold Leaf could have been left off without anyone noticing.
Continuing the laborious presentation with Goat Cheese and Chicken, the latter unexpected but delightfully rustic with exquisite Pastry-work, it was after consuming every shard of Meringue, Popcorn and Chevre balanced by sweetness that share-plates were reset, a younger server thankfully taking over from here and delivering a housemade Baguette with salted French Butter on request.
Next offering two items each from “Seafood” and “Vegetarian & Vegan” sections, the Truffle Oil added to a stuffed Artichoke Heart contributing nothing a bit of hard Cheese could not have, Chef Szarzewski’s Ratatouille-inspired “Tian de Legumes” is a tremendous dish both visually and in terms of taste while his Scallop bathed in Mushroom Broth with late-summer Vegetables reminisces of L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon at 1/3 the price.
Still working on Octopus when two more plates arrived, splatters of creamy Fennel a questionable visual despite functioning well as Dip for Potatoes and Tentacles intended to be eaten as “Tacos,” it was again Truffle Oil that hindered rather than helped braised Oxtail layered between Toast, its richness already amplified by Bone Marrow and thus in need of little else while Foie Gras Crème Brulee in the spirit of Sage was nearly perfect, save for the server’s recommendation to spread it on Gingerbread that was only large enough for perhaps a quarter of the Custard.
Told by trustworthy palates that Partage’s “Large Plates to Share” feature Yuri’s best work it was unwilling to forego either Pork or Rib Eye that both were ordered, $70 a fair price for one juicy pound of Kurobuta Frenched Chop unfortunately compromised by Celery Root instead of menu-listed accoutrements, while eighteen ounces of Grass Fed Beef smoked with Applewood was enjoyable but a bit steep in comparison to Steaks served off-Strip at Locale Italian, Sparrow + Wolf or b.B.d.’s.
Happy to see an actual Espresso machine on Spring Mountain Road, the Beans medium roasted and offered in a variety of styles, it was here that Pastry Chef Vincent Pellerin took over, the Tarte Tatin harkening “La Pomme” visually stunning and not too sweet while a daily inspiration again attested to Joel Robuchon’s enduring influence by amplifying Chocolate and Bananas with Asian Citrus.
FOUR STARS: Relieved from the self-imposed constraints of “health Food” at Eatt, Chefs Szarzewski and Pellerin are preparing some outstanding plates at Partage, though the over-exuberance of youth does occasionally show in dishes that would benefit from a “less is more approach.” Already stunning for off-Strip French, Partage is sitting on a ton of potential and warrants Las Vegas’ attention now as well as in the future as it matures.
RECOMMENDED: Goat Cheese, Chicken, Tian de Legumes, Scallop, Foie Gras, La Banane, La Pomme.
AVOID: Not a single dish was “bad,” but extraneous garnishing and Truffle Oil could easily be eliminated to several plates’ benefit. Also, had the Pork Chop been served as listed (see photo) rather than overwhelmed by Celery Root it would be amongst Sin City’s best.
TIP: Complaints about Parking at The Center at Spring Mountain have been heard and Partage is now offering $7 Valet with that cost deducted from the bill.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.