Harvest by Roy Ellamar
Pink Tonic – Hwayo 41 Soju, Omija Extract, Citrus Extract, Tonic, Soda
Green Soda – Hwayo 25 Soju, Apricot Extract, Lemon, Tonic, Soda
Naan Bread – Roasted Pepper Tapenade, Charred Eggplant Dip, Whipped Raita
Mushroom Congee – Matsutake, Chanterelle, Ginger, Soy
Scallops and Squash – Viking Village Scallop, Honey Nut Squash Puree, Thai Basil
Brisket Brioche Buns – Coffee Rubbed Smoked Beef, Asian Pear, Espresso BBQ Sauce
Beet and Feta Salad – Pea Shoots, Baby Lettuce, Rosemary Breadcrumbs, Manouri Feta, Citrus Vinaigrette
Radicchio Endive Salad – Shaved Apples, Poached Pears, Candied Walnuts, Ricotta Salata, Red Wine Vinaigrette
Tuna Poke Salad – Hawaiian Tuna, Avocado, Lettuce, Shaved Carrots, Cucumbers, Wasabi Vinaigrette
Spiced Pumpkin Coconut Soup – Vadouvan, Squash, Pomegranate, Pumpkin Seed Granola, Pumpkin Pie Macaron
Striped Sea Bass – Taggiasca Olives, Capers, Fennel Confit, Tomato Saffron Broth
Pork Chop & Pork Belly – Fennel Pollen, Rosemary, Garlic, Orange, Broccoli Rabe, Fruit Compote, Calamansi Soy
Lamb Osso Buco – Anson Mills Polenta, Citrus Gremolata, Red Wine Sauce
Mushroom Farro Risotto – Shallot Confit, Parmesan
Crispy Brussels Sprouts – Blis Maple Soy Mustard, Pickled Chiles
Chocolate & Lemon Mousse Cake – Dark Chocolate Sable, Coffee Lemon Cream
Toffee & Bacon Pudding – Sticky Toffee Cake, Nueske’s Bacon, Vanilla Ice Cream
Raspberry Panna Cotta – Sicilian Pistachio Cream, Salted Streusel, Herbs, Raspberries, Blueberries
Harvest Apple Pie – Granny Smith Apples, Spiced Citrus Filling, Graham Cracker Streusel, Vanilla Ice Cream, Salted Caramel Sauce
When first writing about Harvest by Roy Ellamar, the Restaurant then only two weeks old, it was suggested that the concept showed “signs of an awakening amongst casino executives,” and although that prediction was quickly disproved by dozens of half-brained imports the good news is that Harvest remains stunning thanks to Chef Ellamar and his ability to coax maximum flavor from impeccable Ingredients.
Soon celebrating anniversary number four, and still one of Las Vegas Boulevard’s rare “hidden gems” thanks to a location between Bellagio’s ballrooms and the Conservatory, it was after greetings from Roy and General Manager Hunter Welch that three guests were offered lounge-seats, this particular evening not only celebrating a personal milestone but witnessing Chef Ellamar’s Snack Wagon in conjunction with a Chef from South Korea.
Described as an “homage to the origin of Food,” the affectation of this accurate but in no way a reflection of the humble Chef who turns spotlights away from himself and onto farmers and fishmongers, it was shortly after getting comfortable that staff arrived with menus and beverages, the latter via cart driven by Mr. Welch and featuring several Soju Cocktails from the visiting Chef’s Restaurant Bicena.
Dining in front of Harvest’s jewel box kitchen, all while Game 7 of the World Series was unfolding on televisions at the Bar, it was while music played overheard that Naan from the Tadoori Oven was delivered fluffy as ever, a live-cooking demo soon to follow as Royden and another man prepared smoky Beef Buns and beautifully seared Scallops atop Squash from Dan Barber at Blue Hill.
Off to a good start, the Vegan and Gluten-Free Congee from Roy’s Wagon achieving an unanticipated level of creaminess amidst earthy flavors that found balance in Soy plus Ginger, it was with three Salads that dinner continued, Tuna Poke brightened by the careful use of Wasabi while Beets with Feta and Radicchio with Ricotta each attested to top-quality Ingredients paired in ways that allow them to shine.
Continuing with Soup, a Vegan Potage in which Chef Ellamar resists the urge of many Chefs to make Pumpkin sweet, it was after finishing an accompanying Macaron that attention turned to Fish, in this case Striped Bass from Baja presented something like Acqua Pazza with delicate Flesh and charred, crackling Skin.
Going a little “off menu” with Entrees, specifically by offering Belly from Pachamama Farm and Chops from Tails & Trotters on one plate, there is arguably no better Pork in Las Vegas than what Harvest is offering, and the Lamb Shank cooked Fork-tender atop Polenta with vibrant Gremolata is also a carnivore’s delight.
Not forgetting Sides, the stick-a-spoon-up-straight Risotto only slightly less remarkable than Congee from earlier, those in love with Brussels Sprouts should not skip Chef Ellamar’s sweet and savory version that eschews Bacon in favor Chiles and Mustard Seed, the Pork instead set aside for Sticky Toffee Pudding that outduels any in town for texture with or without creamy Vanilla Ice Cream.
Unchanged in terms of Dessert, and too full for all six, it was instead picking and choosing that three more plates were requested, the Chocolate & Lemon Mousse Cake better than remembered while Pudding-like Panna Cotta and a rustic Apple Pie were each befitting the Ingredient-driven menu, sharable and delicious.
FIVE STARS: In a city where Ingredient sourcing often takes a backseat to Restaurant design, ambiance or the whims of upper management Harvest by Roy Ellamar remains a beacon of quality and sustainability. Vegetable-centric often Vegan, this is intelligent cuisine in a city where Chefs are being told to make things more #instagramfriendly and Roy deserves tremendous credit for what he has created.
RECOMMENDED: Mushroom Congee, Radicchio Endive Salad, Spiced Pumpkin Coconut Soup, Lechon, Lamb Osso Buco, Crispy Brussels Sprouts, Toffee & Bacon Pudding, Raspberry Panna Cotta.
TIP: Open 5pm until 10pm daily, stay tuned to the website for upcoming Snack Wagon Pop-Up events.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.