Jerry’s Famous Coffee Shop
Stawberry Ring – Choux, Bavarian Cream, Whipped Cream, Glazed Strawberries, Chocolate Shell
Jerry’s 50th Anniversary Almond Nugget Cake
7-Layer Carrot Cake
Bread Pudding Cake
Monte Cristo with Hash Browns
Largely incapable of sleeping in on weekends and having thus taken it upon myself to explore the Vegas 24/7 dining scene after my morning run a somewhat atypical Sunday would mark my first visit to North Las Vegas, home of Jerry’s Nugget – a casino having celebrated its 50th anniversary just three days prior – and Jerry’s Famous Coffee Shop, the 24/7 retro-modern eatery within. Decidedly different from the Luxe resort-casinos of the southern strip but featuring a gritty sort charm it was just after 5:00am when I arrived at Jerry’s and with a skeleton crew catering to just six other patrons in the large space service was expectedly accommodating with coffee kept brimming throughout as a somewhat slow (likely understaffed) kitchen prepared hot dishes allowing me to focus first on pastry – a collection of over fifty options baked in-house featuring cakes, pies, danishes, donuts, and more. Beginning with the famous “Strawberry Ring” it should first be stated that for a choux-based pastry baked at least 8 hours prior to remain crisp and buttery beneath two types of rich cream speaks volumes to the quality of kitchen and with both textures and flavors aplenty the dish proved wonderful, a lightly sweet take on the Paris-Brest with a portion big enough for two or three more than justifying the $6 tab. Working slowly through the ring with frequent coffee refills as I awaited my sandwich it was with some disappointment that when the Monte Cristo arrived the flavors would only prove average, the fried bread shining while proteins and cheese proved meager in both taste and portion, but propping the dish up with a touch of real maple syrup it should be said that at $1 each, the biscuits at Jerry’s are worth seeking out – an excellent rise and good layer separation beneath a crisp, buttered top. Taking the rest of my order to go, a veritable bargain at $5/slice, suffice it to say that while Jerry’s may not be the best choice in town for a sandwich I’d be hard pressed to name a better choice for cake as each of my three selections shined; the anniversary cake a sort of dulce de leche with buttercream and frangipane vying for top billing over a delicate crumb, the bread pudding featuring two layers of rich pound cake topped with lightly sweetened egg custard and a bruleed top, and the carrot cake dense with cinnamon, nutmeg, carrots, raisins, and walnuts beneath thin ribbons of cream cheese frosting – the best I’ve found in the city to date and a contender for the best I’ve tasted anywhere in years.