Del Mar Deli
Black and White Cookie
Owned and operated by the team behind Bagel Café and serving a limited menu of items baked at the flagship plus a number of selections made on the premises of The Southpoint it was largely by accident that I stumbled upon Del Mar Deli but rarely in the area and with the Sportsbook in plain view I gave way to temptation, a twelve dollar trio proving every bit as impressive as the items up north. Small in size and a bit drab in decor amidst the smoky locals casino it was to a short line of patrons and a smiling staff that I arrived at the Del Mar counter and watching the bakers work for a few minutes in order to determine what was fresh my order wrote itself – two items warm from the rack while the last was cut from a pan, wrapped, and saved for later…at least in theory. New York Jewish in concept but apparently insufficiently kosher in its offerings as I overheard a young rabbi and his wife discussing their sandwiches it was with a springy hot cinnamon roll beneath rapidly melting icing that my tasting began and moving next to a saucer-sized black and white with modestly sweet frosting atop a delicate crumb my taste buds swooned, the half shared with my mother and aunt equally well received along with a dense pecan bar dipped in chocolate shell atop a butter crust that barely made it past the slot machines en route to the car.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Undoubtedly lacking the charm of its North Buffalo sibling but serving up equally impressive baked goods in an area not particularly known for gastronomy Del Mar Deli is everything Carlo’s Bakery and the counter at Carnegie Deli fails to be – a casino-based throwback to affordable ethnic pastry where quality, value, and customer service matter more than stereotypes and the name on the door.
RECOMMENDED: Black and White Cookie, Pecan Bar, Warm Cinnamon Roll.
AVOID: Leftover or Cooled Cinnamon Roll as the yeasted rise of the dough is prone to becoming soggy.
TIP: Staff confirmed that while many items are made in the Del Mar kitchen the bagels are not; for those willing to schlep for the best bagel in town a 7am arrival at Bagel Café is your best bet.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor