Jean Georges Steakhouse
Orange Elderflower Cocktail – Hangar One Buddha’s Hand Vodka, Cranberry, Pineapple
Lavash, Pretzel, Baguette, Walnut Cranberry Bread, Butter
Sushi – Chipotle, Mayonnaise, Crispy Rice
Bacon Wrapped Shrimp – Snap Peas, Spring Onion Mustard
BBQ Pork Ribs – Sea Salt, Lime
Foie Gras – Cherries, Pistachio, Brioche
Pea Soup – Parmesan Cream, Croutons
Three Grain Salad – Beets, Goat Cheese, Herbs
Hearts of Palm – Tomatoes, Coconut
Skuna Bay Salmon – Mushroom Crust, Lemon Emulsion
Sea Bass – Miso-Yuzu Glaze, Maitake Mushroom
Chateaubriand on the Bone – Steak Sauce, Beanaise, Hot Sauce, Miso-Soy
Bone Marrow – Brioche, Parsley Gremolata
Peas & Tendrils – Onion Butter, Chili-Lime Crumbs
Trumpet Mushrooms – Garlic, Jalapeno, Lemon
Crispy Mashed Potato – Spring Garlic Miso
Double Espresso on Ice
Rhubarb Pie – Buttermilk and Candied Ginger Ice Cream
Basil Panna Cotta – Market Berries, Blueberry Sorbet
Salted Caramel Sundae – Fudge, Candied Peanuts, Caramel Popcorn
Strawberry Linzer – Strawberry Sorbet, Ice Cream
Cheesecake – Sour Cherry Sorbet
Overlooked by many local writers and guides for unknown reasons, the menu far more innovative and prone to seasonal change than that of CUT, PRIME, SW or STRIPSTEAK, a repeat visit was planned to Jean Georges Steakhouse largely on account of Chef Sean Griffin’s Instagram feed of new items, the resultant six course tasting comprised of no less than twenty plates showing the restaurant to have further improved on an already strong foundation with nothing less than outstanding results.
Less celebrated than its luxurious older sister at Bellagio, though both PRIME and the eponymous space at Aria are fronted by New York based Vongerichten, Jean George Steakhouse is itself now somewhat “Old School” when taking into account rebranded nearby competition and still sporting a swanky vibe that feels trendy without “trying” it was in the early evening that our duo was welcomed by hostesses and the General Manager, the same table as last time bathed in spotlighting.
Seated, situated and treated to an Orange Elderflower Cocktail that proved every bit as fresh as a Yuzu Lemondrop from the first meal, it was with greetings from Chef Griffin that the night’s Carte Blanche degustation was presented, the well-adorned bread basket soon to arrive featuring four options including a newly-launched housemade baguette.
Using ambient music to drive the tempo, light sourcing giving each table an individual halo of intimacy despite the sizable room, dining began just fifteen minutes after seating and with three appetizers sent to whet the palate the only questions were where to begin and which was better, the Ribs tender and well spiced while Sliced Fish atop rice cakes were a picture of simple elegance, Bacon Wrapped Shrimp given a seasonal spin with Peas as well as Onions and all the better for it.
Sending forth a “work in progress” before Pea Soup that overcomes connotations of dreariness by way of a velvety veloute poured into creamy Parmesan Foam, plate four featured a generous slice of Foie Gras still dripping juices atop buttery brioche with drunken Cherries, a field of green created by way of pistachios compressed into a terrine and subsequently shaved from above.
A favorite of Kerry Clasby’s Markets, the Intuitive Forager having recently dined on an organic vegan menu that Sean proudly created a la minute, course three featured a Hearts of Palm salad featuring both raw and cooked sections dancing amidst young coconut while the “Three Grain Salad” featured an equal number of colored Beets with Goat Cheese and a tangle of Herbs, the gently cooked White Italian Beets from Brian’s Ranch Family Farm in Hollister California a revelatory sort of flavor with florals atop the typical earthiness, quite unlike anything seen in a tuber or taproot before.
With Sean continuing to insist on Salmon, the truffle crust from Fall replaced by wild mushrooms given levity by a bright emulsion of citrus for Spring, an alternative plate featuring Nobu-esque Miso-Yuzu Sea Bass was absolutely sensational set next to a whole grilled Maitake Mushroom, the flavors robust yet light on the stomach which would prove fortuitous considering the finales yet to come.
Recalling a video of Chef Griffin repeatedly basting beef in early Winter, that Chateaubriand an occasional special readily made available by advanced notice, it was with the thick tenderloin served medium-rare on the bone that course five got started and offering the meat simply with salt and roasted garlic the sides were allowed to further dictate the extent of the grandeur as a hemisected whole cow’s femur and strip of American Wagyu presented brazen opulence, the Mushrooms and Potatoes each well composed while “Peas & Tendrils” was truly special, the picture of seasonality with Onion Butter and toasted crumbs with Tajin-like spicing.
Knowing that dessert is a priority, the Pastry Chef introduced tableside to describe flavors presented in two rounds, suffice it to say that both Cheesecake and a Salted Caramel Sundae offered exactly what was expected while Basil Panna Cotta and Rhubarb Pie boldly presented flavors less typical but equally delicious, a Strawberry Linzer taking the Austrian pastry to unprecedented heights through the combination of housemade jam, sorbet, sliced fruit and ice cream.
FIVE STARS: Continuing to up the ante on traditional Steakhouses with a Spring Menu that sees Chef Griffin and his team coax unparalleled ingredients to the utmost of their flavor there is little doubt that Jean Georges Steakhouse remains one of The Strip’s most under-regarded properties, a rare surviving member from Aria’s Grand Opening whose best days are perhaps yet to come.
RECOMMENDED: Foie Gras, Three Grain Salad, Sea Bass, Chateaubriand on the Bone, Peas & Tendrils, Rhubarb Pie, Strawberry Linzer.
AVOID: The bone marrow is best ordered by groups of three (or more) because no matter how much you may *want * to eat every bite, doing so will preclude exploring other delicious things.
TIP: Offering both a pre-theater and Signature Tasting Menu this is the rare Steakhouse where even solos with a modest appetite can really get a sense of the kitchen’s skill and variety without overspending on wasted food or becoming far too full.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.