Mothership Coffee Roasters
Nitro Cold Brew
Pineapple Coconut Scone
Concord Grape Lavender Tart
Caramelized Pineapple Chocolate Cake
Orange Hazelnut Chocolate Chip Cookie
Ham, Jalapeno, Gruyere Cheese Puff
Breakfast Pocket – Vegan Egg, Tomatoes, Potatoes, Mushrooms, Red Bell Pepper, Lime, Cilantro
Green Onion, Smoked Chorizo and Gruyere Quiche
Now open for over a year, the Roastery for local favorite Sunrise Coffee slowly growing in popularity despite a location tucked away next to Trader Joes in a shopping center on Green Valley Parkway, time has seemingly done little to stifle the creativity of bakers Beth Ryan-Small and Sinead Kravetz, a recent look at items both sweet and savory showing several favorites still making waves in a scene that has improved dramatically, while several new options show no signs of the duo slowing.
Still an intimate and unadvertised location with limitations largely imposed by size, Mothership Coffee Roasters has managed the tough task of surviving the ever-churning Las Vegas restaurant cycle mostly by word of mouth, and with Baristas that are not only more pleasant but more educated than those at several other places the Coffee remains a focal point for many across the city, the beans now available in several locations though the smooth Nitro Brew remains an in-store special only, the care of light roasting completely devoid of bitterness with a smooth base that requires zero sweetening.
Selling several origins of beans by the bag, prices lower than imports from operations like Stumptown or even Colorado River Coffee Roasters, part two of Mothership’s appeal comes from the in-house pastry program that far outperforms places outsourcing talent, a la Sambalatte, the choice of vegan versus omnivorous options really a toss-up considering the talent incorporated, even the “Breakfast Pocket” full of faux-Egg proving to be a fulfilling and flavorful pastry that even discerning palates would be hard-pressed to discern from the “real” thing.
Possessing an almost incomparable skill at overcoming the lack of humidity in bakes of all sorts, the Pineapple Coconut Scone now even better with toasted curls and caramelized Fruit packing the buttery triangle with moisture as well as flavor, a look at Ryan-Small’s Quiche speaks further to the Chef’s talent with textures in the arid environment, the spicy Pork offset by aged Gruyere and Green Onions amidst a fluffy base.
Seemingly expanding the vegan goods since last visit, the Ham and Cheese in puff pastry a lone remaining taste of things more meaty, Las Vegas should rejoice at the return of Chef Kravetz Concord Grape Lavender Tart that remains one of the city’s best pastries while those looking for something with even more natural sweetness should take note of the Fig Galette, a jammy masterpiece that the Barista says is made without any addition of extra Sugar.
Admittedly challenged by the idea of mixing Fruit and Chocolate even to this day, the flavor of one almost universally compromising the other, Mothership takes on the tough task of balance by way of two new options, the Orange Hazelnut Chocolate Chip Cookie crisp on the edges with a soft center lightly tinged in Citrus while the Cocoa-rich loaf takes vegan cake to the next level by filling the rich Chocolate batter with caramelized Pineapple in a Twinkie-like manner.
FIVE STARS: Continuing to compete on the same level as places like San Francisco’s Craftsman & Wolves for creativity without getting all high and mighty or pushing prices sky high, Mothership Coffee Roasters is as “destination” as Las Vegas gets for options ranging Vegan to Omnivorous while the Coffee remains exemplary.
RECOMMENDED: Nitro Coffee, Pineapple Coconut Scone, Concord Grape Lavender Tart, Fig Galette, Caramelized Pineapple Chocolate Cake.
AVOID: Arriving too late as popular items do sell out.
TIP: Outdoor seating and Wi-Fi are now available, as are more indoor stools for those who choose to stick around.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.