Standard & Pour
Classic Bloody Mary, Cucumber Lime Bloody Mary
Complimentary Mini Muffins – Zucchini, Raisins
Yogurt & Granola – House Granola, Seasonal Fruit, Greek Yogurt
Tenders & Waffle – Cornflake Chicken Tenders, Cheddar Jalapeno Waffle
Muffins & Gravy – Honey Habanero Corn Bread Muffin, Chorizo Red Eye Gravy
Ricotta Toast – Seasonal Fruit, Honey, Cinnamon Toast
Bacon & Egg Polenta – Crispy Lardons, Poached Eggs, Green Onions
Whiskey & Beer Pancakes – Bourbon Maple Syrup
Fat Elvis French Toast – Banana, Peanut Butter, Bacon, Pain Perdu
English Muffin Sandwich – Two Eggs, Bacon, Cheddar, Hash Brown, Basil Aioli
Patty Melt – White Cheddar, Caramelized Onions, Sourdough
Real Big Muffin – Housemade Almond Blueberry Lemon Muffin
Open for just over four months, early struggles finding footing in Henderson reported by trusted sources, Standard & Pour launched Brunch service on Sunday and if the fully booked reservations, loud voices and broad smiles are any indication it seems Cory Harwell and team may have a big hit on their hands.
Built on the theme of Mimosas, Muffins & Marys, the latter done up in grand fashion with a large communal table converted into a build-your-own bar containing over twenty Vegetables, Pickles and Condiments plus three-dozen or more styles of Hot Sauce, it was as a party of four that 2/3 of the fifteen-plate menu from Chefs Harwell and John Courtney was tasted, all but one dish exemplifying the duo’s commitment to quality at a great price.
Arriving minutes prior to 1:30pm, much of the crowd having already died down but several middle-age Ladies still lingering, loudly, over bottomless Mimosas, it was with warm greetings from General Manager Ed Tracy and AGM Chelsea Anderson that the afternoon got started, a complimentary basket of Zucchini Muffins from Chef Courtney by-way-of-his-mother-by-way-of-her-mother served warm, moist and lightly sweetened disappearing even before drinks were ordered.
Told that the early hours had been a challenge, short staffing and CES both adding to an underestimation of Henderson’s love for Brunch, it was with two distinctly different Bloody Marys that the ladies investigated a wide-range of housemade and store-bought accoutrements while the guys focused on Cocktails and Coffee, bottomless pours of the latter for $3 no less a deal than the endless Mimosa or Bloody option for just six-fold more.
Originally opting for just nine a la carte plates, but prompted to add the Yogurt & Granola when five-straight came over the pass, it was with the tangy Parfait of over twenty ingredients including Ancient Grains, Cherries, Nuts, stewed Apples and Honey plus two plates that the meal got underway, John’s stint at Yardbird paying dividends with “Tenders & Waffle” that improves on the Waffle with more Cheddar and crispness while the Muffins & Gravy continue further South with lightly sweetened Cornbread Muffins topped in Red-Eye Gravy bolstered by Chorizo and Coffee with stewed Red Beans used to thicken it.
Breaking between larger courses for two slices of Ricotta Toast, the charred Cinnamon Sourdough glistening with Honey atop housemade Cheese, Pears and Blueberries, the next round came as four plates including Pancakes that unfortunately fell flat as a result of too little leavening plus a really hot skillet, the Fat Elvis French Toast incidentally served on what would have been the King’s 82nd birthday literally right up my alley with Bananas, Peanut Butter and Bacon spread over ‘Lost Bread’ baked, dipped and fried again.
Amused by Coutney & Co’s decision offer creamy cubes of Cornmeal with briny Bacon and poached Eggs, no watery Grits to be found, the “English Muffin” Sandwich was an equally inspired idea with an almost-weightless Bun made in-house from Muffin mix supporting sunny-side Eggs, two types of Pork plus aged Cheddar and Hash Browns, the Basil Aioli adding an herbal linger that was almost as subtle as the spice-infused Russian Dressing served on a juicy Patty Melt.
Generally not one to overdo it on Breakfast Potatoes, though the crispy nuggets served with both Sandwiches saw several at the table picking at them as the meal lingered on, it was with a broad smile that John explained the Streusel-topped showstopper entitled “Real Big Muffin,” nearly two-pounds of Lemony Almond Batter that bakes up tall, proud and lighter than expected with a whole lot of fresh Blueberries bursting at its center.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Far better than the majority on day one, the Pancakes needing a bit of work and long delays for Coffee both noteworthy while more housemade Pickles on the Bloody Bar would also be nice, Standard & Pour’s Brunch is poised to be a big thing in an area slow to embrace new concepts, and hopefully the sort of thing that will spark interest in locals to further investigate an even more impressive dinner menu.
RECOMMENDED: Muffins & Gravy, Yogurt & Granola, Bacon & Egg Polenta, Fat Elvis French Toast, Real Big Muffin.
AVOID: Whiskey & Beer Pancakes.
TIP: Open 4pm to Close Monday through Saturday, Brunch from 10am to 3pm Sundays. Photographed menu prices subject to minor tweaks.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.