Vero Bistro Moderne
Sweet Potato Gnocchi W Sunny Side Organic Vita Egg – Wild Boar Bacon, Gorgonzola, Walnuts, Maple Butter, Balsamic Reduction
Hot Skillet House Made Beef Meatballs – 12 hour Slow Cooked Berkshire Pork Ragu, 2 Poached Vita Eggs, Croissant, Arugula, Reggiano Shavings
Tiramisu – Ladyfingers, Mascarpone, Kahlua, Valrhona Chocolate Soil
Located in trendy Kensington, the restaurant behind a frozen patio almost missed on first pass given its small size and signage far more subdued than other stores along the block, Vero Bistro Moderne was suggested for Brunch on Saturday by several sources and publications, Chef Jenny Chan’s unique take on French-Italian cuisine said to be one of the city’s most inspired ways to experience some of Western Canada’s very best seasonal ingredients.
Rumored to be popular during the weekend, a reservation thus made for 11:30am, it was precisely on time that I entered the front doors reading “Welcome to my heart,” a man named Michael greeting me with “just a minute” before wandering away for more than seven, much of it spent kibitzing with regulars as patrons both entering and exiting were forced to squeeze past me in the chilly, tight foyer.
Admittedly a bit annoyed when a young lady finally emerged from the back to seat me, Michael intentionally ignoring a stare from the door, it was with Coffee declined that water was filled and a menu presented, the one on the website completely identical and thus allowing for an expedited order.
Finding the kitchen far more efficient than front of house staff, the sleek and narrow space run by just two, it was only perhaps fifteen minutes after an order was placed that two plates were presented, the cast-iron skillet containing nine Meatballs still bubbling hot beneath melted Cheese and golden Eggs while the mixture of Sweet Potato and more traditional white dumplings were each pillow-soft amidst nuggets of Wild Boar Bacon, whole Walnuts and Maple-infused Butter plus Balsamic.
Eventually allowing the ping-pong ball-sized Meatballs enough time to cool, the majority smooth and rich though residual heat from the skillet had unfortunately rendered some a bit rubbery, an accompanying laminated pastry was fairly well constructed and nicely paired to zesty Yuzu Marmalade with flavors a pleasant prelude to Tiramisu served in a flower pot with well-separated layers of creamy Mascarpone and sopping-wet Ladyfingers beneath crunchy Chocolate ‘soil.’