2013 Alois Lageder Gewurztraminer
N’Duja & White Anchovy Crostini, Fennel, Parsley, Red Onion
Eggs Moliterno ‘Cacio e Pepe,’ Black Truffle, Crostini
Fonduta Agnolotti Dal Plin, Sage Butter, Parmigiano
Housemade Porchetta with Rosemary, Garlic and Fennel with Grissini, Focaccia and Warm Bread
Owned and operated by Daniel Costa, a man whose Corso 32 has topped the list of Italian restaurants in Canada for years, Bar Bricco was added to an overpacked agenda thanks to strong praise from chefs and servers at Pigeonhole and Anju, respectively, the swanky Wine Bar on Jasper Avenue proving a perfect environment for some early evening snacks.
Rooted in Italian heritage, both that of its Chef and many of the Meats and Cheeses used to craft its plates, entrance to the long 30-seater any time after sunset sees diners immediately immersed in a bustling environment with music thumping, the two bartenders largely charged with taking orders and doling out wines by the glass as Sputini and some larger plates slowly trickle from a kitchen in back.
Built with a focus on sharing, the lighting subdued and capable of making everyone look a little more glamorous, it was on the notes of bold and citrusy that a glass of 2013 Alois Lageder Gewurztraminer was suggested, slow sips seeing it pair well with a starter of spicy Calabrian Sausage and sliced Anchovies on Bread with shaved Fennel, Red Onion and Parsley.
An oddly paced restaurant, plates coursed out with significant gaps even before the space really starts hopping, it was unavoidably eavesdropping on two Women discussing the complexities of dating while pursuing a career in Law that nearly thirty minutes passed before the arrival of plate two, the airy pudding of Eggs Moliterno served with grated Cheese and Black Pepper further embellished by Winter Truffles while simultaneously served naked Cheese Agnolotti were cleverly served ‘fondue-style’ with a sidecar of herbal Butter designed for dipping.
Impressed by the affordable Wine List and imported ingredients, but far more intrigued by items made in-house, it was after sizing up the menu at my subsequent dinner reservation that a plate of Housemade Porchetta was added, the room temperature meat served with Bread warm from the oven offering a perfect ratio of fat and protein with a hefty endowment of Rosemary and Garlic.