Chicken & Waffle – Buttermilk, Spice marinated Chicken Breast, Waffle, Maple Butter
French Toast – Brioche, Berry Compote, Whipped Cream
Located on 88 Avenue NW, truly an all-day eatery that is frequently filled to capacity from 8am until the calendar turns over to the next day, it was just minutes prior to opening on Saturday that I joined at short line in front of Sugarbowl, a number of idling cars occupying nearby street parking choosing to wait things out in comfort as temperatures hovered just below freezing.
Taking up a small space just south of the North Saskatchewan River, a lot of wood and exposed brick giving the room a rustic yet homey feel, it was immediately as the clock struck eight that doors were unlocked to welcome patrons, the bar at room’s center popular amongst regulars that were greeted by name while a tight two-top against the left wall is what myself and many others opted for.
Clearly knowing their clientele, several Cinnamon Rolls already lined up at the pass and ready to go, it was with pleasant greetings from a young woman that a menu was presented, the Bread Pudding offered at dinner not available during early morning making decisions simple, strong Coffee poured quick and refilled consistently throughout the meal.
Taking the opportunity to maximize the sampling, though limiting the order due to more dining plans to follow, it was with one of the restaurant’s signature Rolls plus a side of Cornbread that the meal was quickly underway, the latter which is intended to be served as part of a Benedict unfortunately a bit too dry without Butter and Honey while the unfrosted Loaf with a knife sticking out of it eats more like Coffee Cake than a spiral of Brioche, the Cinnamon-Sugar on the outside baked into a crust that penetrates deep down to the middle.
Impressed by the speed at which the kitchen works, the noise-level kept to a minimum compared to the dining room where bare walls reverberate every sound, it was only ten minutes after ordering that two sizable plates were presented with a “hope you’re hungry,” the French Toast decorated in stewed Berries and canned Whip immediately disappointing as the bread was not well-saturated with Custard and thus not significantly different from Bread out of the toaster while the Chicken & Waffles fared better thanks to the quality of the brine and spicy Batter, though the Waffles themselves were flaccid and no more compelling than the famous store-bought version from Kellogg’s.