Guava Cheese Kouign Amann
Apple Cinnamon Roll
Side of Beans
French Toast with Blueberries and Cream
Baked Ancient Grain Pancake with Nuts and Apples
Originally omitted from the dining agenda as an intentional effort to not over-plan mornings, it was on the recommendation of a couple at Rosetta that Eduardo Garcia’s casual Lalo! was slotted in for breakfast on Friday in Mexico City, the experience at Maximo Bistrot a good one, if not perfect, though the Chef’s command of French influenced Mexican Cuisine was obvious.
Featuring a lengthy and open design just down the way from its more formal sibling, the earliest hours generally seeing the cartoon decorated space playing American iHeartRadio hits empty save for a few diners and servers setting up for the day, it was at a tight two-top towards the interior end of a long communal table that seating was allocated just past eight o’clock in the morning, the House-blend Coffee quickly poured by one man just before another arrived with a selection of Pastries and Breads.
No doubt a joyful space, an all-female team in the kitchen seen hand-extruding pastas and placing baked good on racks as the front of house greeted a few grab n’ go diners with a handful of items up front, it was with three Pastries including a Concha that far outperformed the average by way of its Brioche-like base and poignant top-notes of Vanilla that the meal got started, both the Kouign Amann stuffed with Guava and Cream Cheese as well as the Cinnamon roll that ate like an Apple Fritter topping anything found at Ideal, De Silva, El Cardinale or Suiza for best breakfast Pastries thus far on the trip.
Unfortunately turned off to Huevos Rancheros by the disaster at El Cardinale a few days prior, the version at Lalo! apparently highly recommended according to staff, it was instead with a plate of Chilaquiles in Red Sauce that the Mexican part of the meal ensued, the over-easy Eggs well-cooked with Yolks runny and whites springy over a pile of crispy housemade Tortillas atop shredded Chicken and fresh Avocados plus Sour Cream that was so light it seemed to have been dispensed from an ISI container charged with nitrogen.
Quite fond of the tender Black Beans served on the side, the flavors of Citrus and Cilantro both prominent on the palate, rumors of Garcia’s team producing a Croque Madame that rivals any in France were immediately confirmed by two crispy slices of Brioche sandwiched around a pile of Ham and Cheese beneath an organic Egg intentionally left runny plus freshly made Bearnaise Sauce.
Acknowledging that some over-ordering had occurred, both the portions and richness of the food underestimated thanks to the low cost, ‘dessert’ at Breakfast entailed the same French Toast served at Maximo Bistrot topped in a quenelle of Whip instead of Ice Cream, the custard-laden center once again soft and moist despite an exterior that had cooked up golden while the baked Ancient Grain Pancake existed somewhere between a bowl of Oatmeal and a Souffle in terms of texture with apples adding just enough sweetness to make Syrup or additional toppings unnecessary.