Recess Italian Ice & Desserts
Samples – Horchata, Apple, Choco-Nutella
Mangonada – Mango Ice, Chamoy Sauce, Tajin
Peach Cobbler – Peach and Horchata Ice, Vanilla Custard, Crushed Graham Cracker, Caramel Sauce
Matcha Vanilla Swirl Custard – Black Sesame Taiyaki filled with Nutella
Bringing their Northern California concept to Southern Nevada in mid-2016, the small storefront located in an ever-expanding shopping plaza that has included Sweet Addictions for the past five years but seen Crepe Shack and Waffles shutter within months, Recess Italian Ice & Desserts looks to bring an Asian spin to a market previously dominated by Rita’s or locally-owned CJ’s, the housemade Ices and Custards offered both by the scoop or as a wide variety of blends with added intrigue by way of several toppings and soft, photogenic Cones.
Tucked away with only a small sign facing Fort Apache, the Wal-mart, Starbucks and Panera across the way all high volume stores while nearby ACE Donuts continues to offer the best fried Dough in town, it was just past 6:00pm on a Saturday evening that two diners entered the white and black Instagram-friendly space with clever catchphrases and good lighting, the staff of two behind the counter tending to a variety of tasks as only a few other diners were present in the room.
Offering a limited menu but producing everything save for toppings on-site, undoubtedly a lot of work given the assortment of flavors offered in two matched-cases, those entering Recess Italian Ice & Desserts are likely to be greeted with friendly smiles and a warm greeting plus plenty of samples before any decision-making takes place, a list of suggestions offered as a ‘menu’ of sorts, though patrons are equally invited to invent any blend of flavors and toppings that they choose.
Taking a few tastes before getting started, the Fruit flavors undoubtedly better than Choco-Nutella that just came off icy and artificial, it was after briefly considering the Caramel Apple Ice that eyes instead shifted to a blend of Peach and Horchata Ice topped in Vanilla Custard entitled “Peach Cobbler” the concoction topped in Graham Cracker dust and Caramel an almost spot-on match for the traditionally warm Dessert while the “Mangonada” ordered across the table was most definitely an acquired taste, the blend of Fruit, Salt and Spice favored by Latin cultures certainly not tuned to the Midwestern American palate.
Not particularly knowing what to expect of the Taiyaki, just that the Fish shaped Japanese Cake would round out a bill totaling $17.84 for not-a-whole-lot of food, those looking to post photos of something ‘cute’ would be well served to check out the makeshift ‘cone’ piped with Nutella and topped with Matcha, Vanilla, or Swirled Custard – the just-baked Black Sesame base not all that different from the flavor of those microwave Brownies one might recall from Kid Cuisine during a 1990’s Childhood.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Cute for what it is, but far more pricy that CJ’s for less flavor or variety, Recess fills a niche in the neighborhood as an alternative to the Thrifty Ice Cream offered at Sweet Addiction, though a short drive North, South or West will find better frozen treats from Yogurtland, Handel’s, CJ’s or – admittedly further – Gelatology.
RECOMMENDED: Fruit Ices.
AVOID: Custard is average, Choco-Nutella Ice tastes more like Hershey.
TIP: Taiyaki cones are offered in Red Velvet, Black Sesame, Green Tea and Taro and pricing is obscure, the combos essentially priced a la carte with 50-cents added per topping in a way that can add up quickly.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.