Andre’s Bistro and Bar
Beignets – Powdered Sugar
House Baked Pastry Basket – Croissant, Pain au Chocolate, Almond Croissant, Peach and Cream Pastry, Raspberry Danish with Vermont Butter and Housemade Jam
Escargots de Bourgongne – French Snails, Garlic Butter, Herbs
Brown Sugar Glazed Bacon – Applewood Smoked
Cheese + Charcuterie Board – Cornichons, House Mustard, Cherry Moustarda, Figs, Olives, Candied Nuts, Grapes, Rillettes, Prosciutto, Country Style Pate, Rosette de Lyon, Sopressata, Aged Cheddar, Maytag Blue, St. Andres, Bermuda Triangle
Warm Baguette – Vermont Butter
Andre’s Classic Benedict – Country Ham, Poached Egg, Hollandaise with Breakfast Potatoes
Croque Madame – Ham, Gruyere Cheese, Bechamel, Fried Egg with Duck Fat French Fries
Andre’s Salmon Benedict – Smoked Salmon, Poached Eggs, Hollandaise with Fresh Fruit
Chicken & Waffles – Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Cornbread Waffles, Country Gravy, Maple Syrup
Seared Foie Gras – Grilled Nutella Brioche, Drunken Strawberries, Sauternes Glaze
Lobster Roll – Maine Lobster, Fine Herbs, Toasted Bread Roll with Green Salad
Vegetable Quiche – Peppers, Spinach, Goat Cheese with Fresh Fruit
Quiche Lorraine – Bacon, Comte Cheese with Green Salad
Prime Flat Iron Steak Frites – Herb Butter, Over Easy Eggs, Breakfast Potatoes
Chocolate Walnut Gateau – Chocolate Glazed Caramel Walnut Torte, Crème Anglaise
Crème Brulee – Vanilla Bean Custard, Caramelized Sugar Crust, Fresh Berries
Lemon Tart – Lemon Curd, Sugar Dough Crust, Raspberry Coulis
Saturday Sundae – Layers of Brownie, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Hot Fudge, Caramel, Toasted Hazelnuts, Whipped Cream
Root Beer Float – Hand Crafted Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Fitz Artisan Root Beer
Chocolate Pot de Crème – Oven-baked Chocolate Custard, Chantilly Cream, Homemade Vanilla Cookie
Impressed from the moment Mark Purdy and Joe Marsco first opened the doors to Andre’s Bistro & Bar, the transition from a fine-dining stalwart inside the Monte Carlo to a casual French bistro in the former DW Bistro space originally marred only by music that was both too loud and out of place, a recent return for brunch with out of town guests has shown the restaurant to have only gotten better in the intervening months, a shake-up at Alize necessitating a split of Mark’s time doing nothing to diminish the quality of a kitchen under the guidance of Marty Red DeLeon Lopez.
Just now approaching the four-month mark, some early struggles to understand a new market expectedly ironing themselves out with time, late-Spring sees Andre’s welcoming guests for both Lunch and Dinner on weekdays plus weekends at Brunch, a party of four met by Mr. Marsco soon after entering with seating quickly offered along a banquette suitable for six, the extra space needed as the decision was made to trust the kitchen carte blanche.
Originally decided upon based on two Southerners’ desire for French food, their visits to both Bouchon and Bardot favorable on previous trips to Sin City, it was with pleasantries exchanged and Coffee from Las Vegas’ own Vesta Roasters soon flowing that Chef Marty approached the tableside telling the group menus would not be necessary, “I hope your brought an appetite” never as ominous as it seems when the promise is that of twenty different dishes coursed out over a total of just under two hours and twenty minutes.
Told that Chefs Rochat and Purdy were frequently in and out, the recent hiring of Joshua Bianchi at the top of the Palms likely to see Purdy back at Andre’s on a more consistent basis soon, brunch at Andre’s once again began with a duo of treats from Mark’s wife Tammy Alana, the Beignets dusted in Powdered Sugar still every bit on par with the best of New Orleans while the Pastry Basket yielded a far more crunchy Croissant than last time, the Almond version more like the Danish terms of consistency while the sliced Peaches and Custard replicating sunny-side Eggs remains as clever as it is delicious.
Both starting and ending with Chef Alana’s sweets, the bulk of the meal a steady flow of Rochat classics, surprise items from the dinner menu and several brunch favorites, round two was comprised of two rashers of sweet and smoky Bacon as well as the Escargots de Bourgongne plus Andre’s ever impressive collection of housemade Pates and imported Meats and Cheese, the Bacon-wrapped Pate as chunky and funky as many served in France while the Bermuda Triangle, Cherry Moustarda and creamy Rillettes all went well with a Warm Baguette, still without a doubt one of the Las Vegas’ most impressive complimentary Bread services.
Attempting to take it easy on the Carbs, though the high quality Butter and housemade Jams made such a thing more challenging than usual, a course most easily described as “Eggs” arrived next, both Andre’s Classic Benedict and one made with Smoked Salmon pitch-perfect beneath thick Hollandaise and soft-poached Yolks while the toasty Brioche at the base of a Croque Madame was thinner than in the past and thus more typical to that served in France, a good thing for those who value authenticity as well as folks who which to save more room for the generous helping of buttery Breakfast Potatoes or Fries cooked crisp in Duck Fat.
Continuing to put its name into the hat for Sin City’s best Chicken & Waffles, the juxtaposition of soft Cornbread and crunchy Buttermilk Batter plus Country Gravy admittedly more Southern USA than South of France, those looking for something a bit less ‘heavy’ would be well advised to check out Andre’s Northeast-quality Lobster Roll served on toasted Bread with just a touch of Mayonnaise, the duo of Quiches also both well made with good Custard and a clean-edged Crust, the Vegetarian version on this day a bit more balanced as the combination of Bacon and aged Comte in the Lorraine came across a little more salty than some might want.
Admittedly getting full at this point, though happy to set aside any plans for weekend productivity in exchange for a truly grand finale followed by a ‘parade of Desserts,’ it was alongside an Herb-Butter soaked Steak cooked Medium-Rare that two slices of the dinner-only Foie Gras and Nutella Brioche were served topped in Strawberries and a sweet-Wine Glaze, the carnivorous more than happy to over-indulge while those fond of pastry thankfully held back a little bit, the Rootbeer Float, Saturday-Sundae and Crème Brulee all quite good but difficult to gush over while the rich Pot de Crème, tangy Lemon Tart and elegant Walnut Pie with Chocolate and Caramel were all beyond reproach…and at $8 each a veritable steal for Desserts of such quality.
FIVE STARS: Offering a menu at Brunch that can go toe-to-toe with names like Thomas Keller or Michael Mina, the prices generally discounted by at least 25% for comparable plates, Andre’s Bistro & Bar has achieved in short-order what many restaurants strive a lifetime for in a city known for rushed openings and fast shutters, a destination spot in the neighborhood that is as impressive to tourists as it is a gift to locals.
RECOMMENDED: Beignets, Raspberry Danish, Country Pate, Chicken & Waffles, Salmon Benedict, Seared Foie Gras, Breakfast Potatoes, Chocolate Walnut Gateau, Lemon Tart.
AVOID: A small quibble, but the Quiche Lorraine was a bit too salty for my tastes and was the only dish that went unfinished aside from a few piles of Leafy Greens and Potatoes.
TIP: Although Sunday brunch will remain unchanged, rumors of a really big idea for Saturdays have begun to swirl. Keep your eyes peeled for an announcement early-to-mid June.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.