Cheese Bread with Herb Butter
Charred Spanish Octopus – Broccolini, Stewed Tomatoes, Port Wine
Seared Sonoma Foie Gras – Brioche French Toast, Strawberries, Sherry Reduction
American Caviar Sliders – Blinis, Chive Crème Fraiche, Fingerling Chip
Shrimp Risotto – English Peas, Roasted Onion, Mascarpone
Dry Aged Bone-In NY – 18oz Medium Rare
Rib Eye – 18oz Medium Rare
Bordelaise, MB Steak Sauce, Peppercorn, Cracked Pepper, Sea Salt
Creamed Spinach – Poached Egg, Truffle Gouda
Lobster Mac & Cheese – Cavatappi Pasta
Creamed Corn – King Crab, Roasted Poblano
Mushroom Grits – Pecorino, Chives
Double Espresso – Ice
Layered Carrot Cake – Spice Roasted Pineapple, Candied Pecans
New York Cheese Cake – Caramel Banana, Candied Peanut Popcorn
When The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino decided to close 35 Steaks + Martinis in favor of a more casual concept to serve their Rehab Pool crowd the move was frustrating, but made sense, and even though the work Marty Red DeLeon Lopez and Michael van Staden were doing there will likely never be replicated by any Steakhouse in Sin City the Casino’s newest idea, MB|Steak from the descendents of Morton’s proved compelling enough to sit down for Sunday dinner alongside former Glutton owner and property-wide Executive Chef Bradley Manchester.
Located just off the gaming floor, a still-bustling Oyster Bar to one side and recently launched Magic Mike Live on the other, MB|Steak officially opened in mid-May 2017 and described as a concept created by the Morton Brothers to “bring the best memories of [their] family’s history to life” those dining within its heavily wooded confines will find nearly no detail overlooked, the low ceilings reminiscent of Chicago Steakhouses of the past and the menu veering wide, but not so much that it ever loses its path.
Toqued by Patrick Anthony Munster, the St. Louis native who cut his teeth at SW Steakhouse for over a decade moving back to a proper Steakhouse closer to the Strip after a brief stint with Clique Hospitality at Bottiglia, it was with the Chef enjoying a day off that a party of two checked in at the hostess podium before being led past the first of two bars and a staircase that takes guests to an upstairs lounge with living walls and city views, the dining room a bit stark at 5:30 but filling up to about 2/3 capacity by the time a 140 minute feast was completed.
Following a traditional route in offering Appetizers, Steaks, Entrees and Sides, luxury ingredients present in a similar manner to Munster’s former digs as first courses, additions to cuts of Beef and toppings to traditional comfort foods, it was with Cocktails and Wine declined that the menu was perused in search of items both classic and distinctive, a plate of housemade Focaccia with caramelized Cheddar similar but surprisingly even better than the Bacon and Cheddar Roll enjoyed at SW less than 24 hours prior.
Keeping the volume low and lighting moody, a central chandelier shaped like something one might see in Game of Thrones with spiky projections of black metal and decorative LED bulbs pointed inward or up, it was with greetings from the manager and several familiar faces from 35 Steaks that a lengthy conversation about travel, family and the property’s ongoing renovations passed time before first courses arrived, the Caviar “sliders” an interesting idea at $7 each with ring-cut Buckwheat circles supporting briny black Eggs, a crisp Potato plus a dollop of Crème Fraiche.
Not going too far left of center in the offerings, an elongated plate of Spanish Octopus with Broccolini and Tomatoes slightly tough despite a good char and great flavor, those looking for something more decadent would be well advised to order Chef Munster’s Foie Gras that plates quite similar to the one at SW Steakhouse for 25% less, the exterior better caramelized and the portion around an ounce larger.
Opting to also make the entrée Risotto a starter, the creamy bowl of rice imbued with Mascarpone cooked as well as any in town with English Peas, Roasted Onions and a half-dozen plump Shrimp, it was with some bites of the dish still lingering that plates were re-set to prepare for main courses, two Steaks, four Sides and a trio of Sauces literally showing the kitchen cooking with fire as both the Rib-Eye and Dry-Aged New York featured a good crust and medium-rare center with the later nearly as robust as Carnevino’s version and far more complex than that at Wynn where the exact same 18oz Steak will cost guests $14 extra.
Enjoying the Bordelaise and Peppercorn Sauces plenty, though the house Steak Sauce trends a little too sweet, those who get excited for novel sides will be happy to see MB|Steak has its own take on classics dialed up, the Creamed Spinach with a Poached Egg and stretchy Cheese a reference standard side that tops any tasted in Sin City to date while the Mushroom Grits and Lobster Macaroni and Cheese also justify their cost by way of great flavors and good textures, the Creamed Corn unfortunately a bit too finely ground with the roasted Pepper somewhat overwhelming the generous chunks of Crab.
Turning to Hard Rock Pastry Chef Mickey Harden for sweets; everything else including the Bread made on-site as MB|Steak is not officially ‘owned’ by the Hotel & Casino, it is perhaps a bit surprising that the Morton Brothers decided to go straight-classic for Dessert when Chef Harden has proven quite creative elsewhere, though this small quibble is immediately forgotten when the $16 wedge of New York Style Cheesecake and eight-layer Carrot Cake arrive, each undoubtedly intended to be shared as they are listed “for two,” though both are easily among the Valley’s best and despite their large portions something one may want to peril taking a run at solo.
FOUR STARS: Not yet perfect, but sticking its neck out to join the conversation about the city’s Top 5 Steakhouses alongside the likes of Jean-Georges, Carnevino, Delmonico and Bazaar Meat, MB|Steak offers a great overall package of price, selection and style, the room far more welcoming than the vast houses of Meat on Las Vegas Boulevard while small execution errors were certainly not enough to ‘ruin’ any dish, and potentially a non-issue when Chef Munster is not enjoying a well deserved day off.
RECOMMENDED: Dry Age Bone-In New York, Seared Sonoma Foie Gras, Shrimp Risotto, Creamed Spinach, Lobster Mac & Cheese, Cheese Bread, Carrot Cake.
AVOID: Octopus was a little tough, Steak Sauce was a touch sweet and the Peppers should have been sweated longer to avoid overwhelming the Crab in a slightly over-pureed Cream Corn.
TIP: Although the exact purveyors of the Meats are not listed on the menu, all Steaks are Grain Fed and portions seem larger than elsewhere in town on both Appetizers and Sides, so be careful with the Bread.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://mbsteaklv.com / https://hardrockhotel.com/las-vegas-dine/mb-steak.php