2016 Marisco Vineyards ‘The Ned’ Sauvignon Blanc
Harney & Sons Nitro Iced Tea
Cauliflower Sandwich on Marble Rye – Sweet Onion Fondue, Crispy Rice, Curry
Piggy Sue on White – BBQ Butt, Pimento Cheese, Fried Dill Pickles, Greens
Fish-O on Sesame Seed Bun – Crispy Cod, Kimchi Tartar, C-Weed Slaw, American Cheese
Kale& – Beets, Quinoa, Goat Cheese, Orange Caraway Vin
Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies
It seems hard to believe that The Goodwich has been around since 2014, a visit to the fledgling silver box in front of Dino’s Lounge in February of that year surprisingly the only experience to date with Joshua Clark’s Food, but on Saturday it was along with two others after Pizza at Good Pie that a trip was made to The Soho Lofts for a second look, the space fairly quiet at 8pm but a new seasonal menu nonetheless ready and full of good stuff.
Now occupying its current home since April 2016, the former kitchen briefly a “culinary incubator” to Justin Kingsley Hall’s SLO-boy, it was with greetings from Chef Hall’s sister Nichole that a party of three was offered a choice of seats in the space featuring an open kitchen and high ceilings, the Thunder and Warriors wrapping up on Television as a hip-hop soundtrack played at modest volume.
Sticking to the “STACKED-RITE” philosophy of local-seasonal ingredients and elevated concepts to pair with good customer service, a list of favorites from the Dino’s days still available in addition to the Pig o’ the Week, seasonal Sandwiches, Sides and Desserts, it was after perusing options and gauging appetites that an order was placed, The Goodwich’s liquor license now complete with Wine including a fruity Sauvignon Blanc while others may instead opt for Softdrinks from a Coke Remix machine, Coffee or fragrant Nitrogen-infused Tea.
Modestly decorated in hanging sculpture and Warhol wallpaper with a large swine overlooking the kitchen it was after a few minutes spent chatting that three toasted Sandwiches arrived alongside a sizeable “Kale&,” Salad, the additional ingredients including Beets, crispy Quinoa and Goat Cheese dancing in Citrus Vinaigrette with subtle hints of Licorice that helped make the ubiquity of everything else seem a bit more interesting.
Justifiably more expensive than the other assorted Sandwich shops around town and clearly catering to the “Superfoods” crowd with the aforementioned Salad and “Rocketproof” Coffee, it was moving quickly onto the Pig O’ the Week that Pork Butt unfortunately proved a bit dry despite great toppings including Frickles and a smear of Pimento Cheese, the all-new Cauliflower Sandwich a far more delicious idea that marries crumbled florets to crisp Rice in a fragrant Cheese sauce naturally sweetened by caramelized Onions.
Presumably not making Bread on-site, though everything from plain White to a golden Sesame Bun holds up well to the tooth, it was with good fortune that Chef Clark’s Fish-O had just returned to the menu a day prior, the fried Cod light and flaky beneath a pile of briny Slaw and funky Tartar Sauce plus a slice of Cheese melted to the Bun just as memory recalls from the Golden Arches.
Previously unaware that Good Pie’s Cookies were made from The Goodwich base, a big difference in baking temperatures making the version here a bit less crisp around the edges (or less ‘burnt’ depending on personal preferences,) it was with Peach Pie sold out earlier that dinner came to a conclusion with a slice of Apple made by Joshua’s mom, the all-Butter Crust still flaky even after re-heating and the flavor pure American Comfort Food in a town seriously lacking for good Pie outside of the high-priced Casinos
FOUR STARS: Not quite the novelty it was when serving Foie Gras from a shed The Goodwich has nonetheless earned its place amongst Las Vegas’ best original concepts, the focus on quality obvious even to laypersons and the well-culled menu still diverse enough to appease gourmands while not seeming out of reach to those looking for something more common.
RECOMMENDED: Fish-O, Cauliflower Sandwich, Apple Pie.
AVOID: Whether a result of the late hour or Meat itself the Piggy Sue Pork Butt could have been better.
TIP: 11a-11p daily with specials frequently offered in limited quantities on Social Media. Location Two coming soon to Buffalo and Warm Springs.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.