The Kitchen at Atomic
Modern Times Cold Brew
Not Your Average Joe – Stout Casked Whiskey, Modern Times Cold Brew, Anise, Milk, Coconut
Hot Smoked Trout – Chives, Lemon, Toast, Gooseberries
English Pea Hash – Mint, Lemon Zest on Grilled Toast
Fries – Saffron Aioli, Ketchup
Beefy Monkey Bread – Honey Glazed Biscuits, Caul Fat, Shaved Cured Beef
Roasted Baby Potatoes – Sea Salt, Herbs
Seared Pork Belly – Coffee, Orange Zest
Higuera St. Breakfast Burrito – Scrambled Egg, Cheese, Tri-Tip, Salsa, Potato, Sour Cream
White Creamed Grits – Garlic, Cream
Eggs Poached in Tomatoes – Farm Eggs, Tomato, Chickpeas, Cilantro, Toast
D.K. Chicken Fried Steak – Chicken Fried Steak, Gravy, Two Eggs, Toast
Whiskey Bread Pudding – Bourbon Barrel Syrup, Strawberries, Honey Whipped Cream
When Justin Kingsley Hall took over The Kitchen at Atomic it was almost certain that Downtown Las Vegas was about to receive another great Restaurant and having already been impressed by Dinner service it was together with three others that Brunch was sat down to on Saturday, Chef Hall’s various former homes inspiring a menu that lacks for neither quality nor creativity.
Opening the garage door looking onto East Fremont widely, Las Vegas’ early-Spring as well suited for al fresco enjoyment as Sin City always is for day drinking, it was seated in a rounded leather booth that guests were greeted by a server named Cameron, the menu as yet difficult to find online tempting with sections labeled Small Plates, Sides, Entrees and Seafood Shenanigans.
Restricted to folks 21-and-older, an understandable limitation not uncommon in Sin City, it was as the likes of Led Zeppelin played at low volume from speakers overhead that Brunch began with a slow roll-out of plates, the first of two $4 orders of Fries crisp and delicious whether with Ketchup or aromatic Saffron Aioli alongside deboned Smoked Trout and Vegetarian Hash that offer plenty of temptation themselves, the former simply allowing excellent Fish to shine while diced Spuds enlivened by Peas and Citrus provide an inspired alternative for those who’ve had enough of Avocado Toast.
Nowhere near as busy by day as in the evening, a combination of factors including Atomic Liquor’s storied history as a late-night favorite likely at play, it is on the Menu’s backside that diners will find a handful of Cocktails created to compliment the full Bar and whether one opts for a Mimosa, Bloody or the Cold Brew-based “Not Your Average Joe” they can rest assure that the price is right as ingredients are as carefully selected as those that make up the Cuisine.
Smartly making familiar plates his own without abandoning the original concepts, Hall’s side of “Bacon” in reality thick slices of Pork Belly cured on-site with Coffee and Orange, those seeking a dish that truly stands out would be well advised to request at least one order of “Beefy Monkey Bread” featuring three caramelized Rolls presented sticky beneath Bresaola, though the meatless contingent is certainly not forgotten whether one selects the daily Urban Seed Salad, fragrant Baby Potatoes or Atomic’s take on Shakshuka that adds Chickpeas for texture amidst spicy Tomato Sauce and poached Eggs.
Allowing plenty of time to linger over Coffee and conversation, the large space and high ceilings offering a far less frenetic feel than eat or Carson Kitchen, those with more robust appetites will be pleased to know The Kitchen at Atomic does not hold back when it comes to plates labeled as Entrees, the Burrito named after a Street in Hall’s hometown of San Luis Obispo easily enough to feed two from its assortment of Eggs, Cheese, Potatoes and Beef while Chicken Fried Steak reportedly dedicated to Other Mama’s Dan Krohmer sees 10oz of Grass-fed Beef from Tasmania flattened and exquisitely tender alongside two Farm Eggs and Toast for just $21.
Never one to pass on Grits, the Southern staple here whipped thick with Cream and Garlic, those looking to end things on a high note will be happy to learn that the SLO-boy’s famous Whiskey Bread Pudding also makes an appearance at Brunch, here ditching the Cardamom and skillet in favor of a French Toast preparation completed by Barrel aged Maple Syrup and lightly sweetened Cream.
FIVE STARS: Well-culled but offering plenty of options to suit a variety of appetites The Kitchen at Atomic immediately becomes the weekend’s best reason to be in DTLV for Brunch unless one is below the legal drinking limit.
RECOMMENDED: Beefy Monkey Bread, English Pea Hash, Hot Smoked Trout, D.K. Chicken Fried Steak, Whiskey Bread Pudding.
AVOID: Cans of Cold Brew for $6 are a bit steep, though the blend is very smooth.
TIP: Brunch Menu offered Saturday and Sunday from 10:00a-2:30p with Dinner service Thursday through Saturday 5pm to 2am, Sunday and Wednesday 5pm till midnight. Be aware online menus, especially those seen on sites like Yelp or Foursquare, may not be representative of current availability.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.