Red Velvet Croissant
Salted Caramel Cake
Although one does occasionally see a touch of America in Swedish culture it is fairly safe to say that Fika throughout Stockholm stick fairly close to tradition, a lone exception found at Rådmansgatan 12 where Mr. Cake has seen guests line up seven days a week since late 2017 for sweets and savories cut from a different fabric and spanning in influence from Grandma’s cookbook to the sort of things offered at Mr. Holmes Bakehouse in California.
Operated out of an old Architectural College by two regionally famous Bakers, Roy Fares and Mattias Ljungberg of nearby Tössebageriet converting a forgotten space into one where families and friends are invited to sit outdoors amongst sculpture or inside where Pop-Culture runs amok, it is immediately upon entry from an elevated vantage that eyes are treated to a lengthy counter of options, the combination of refrigerator cases and racks further complimented by a menu of choices from the fully-visible kitchen.
Commanding a slight premium compared to other Bageris and Konditoris in town, the operational costs no doubt higher at Mr. Cake than a space like Bakery & Spice where choices are limited and seating nonexistent, it was after watching several locals make selections while continuously being tempted that an order of eight items was crafted, each carefully placed on plates or trays with boxes and bags alongside for leftovers.
Still rooted in technique despite coloring outside the lines, the city’s fluffiest Solbulle but one standout with equally creamy Custard also packing the center of an upright Brioche Donut additionally featuring sugar-poached Rhubarb, the is no doubt that Mr. Cake’s Red Velvet Croissant remains the store’s best seller some 9-months after its debut, the color merely a photogenic hook as flaky layers devoid of Cocoa surround a core of tangy Cream Cheese Frosting.
By no means abandoning the classics in favor of novelty, Chef Ljungberg’s Tosca recipe from Tössebageriet simply piled higher here while Coconut–heavy Chokladboll are cut square like a Brownie under the name Choklad Ruta, it is amidst golden spirals here that one of Stockholm’s best Cardamom Rolls is available, a distinct butteriness penetrating deeply and creating a flavor nearly as savory as it is sweet.
Rounding out the collection with Quick Breads and Cake Slices, everything from seasonal Berries to a particularly decorative Princess available in early Summer, it was unfortunate that a Salted Caramel wedge came across sugary and one-dimensional despite what appeared to be several layers, the Carrot Loaf peeled from cardboard faring far better thanks to piped Cream Cheese Frosting and good density loaded with aromatic Spices.