The Flying Elk
Gougeres with English Cheddar – Chestnut Honey, Fennel Seeds, Black Sarawak Pepper
Deep Fried Pork Rinds – Chipotle Mayonnaise
Salt Poached King Crab – Sauce Hollandaise, Pickled Carrot, Cayenne Pepper
Pan Seared Scallop “Signature” – Truffle Scrambled Eggs, Pommes Paille, Smoked Brown Butter
Triple Cooked Fries
Veal Schnitzel “Björn Frantzén” – Roasted Anchovy Butter, Roasted New Potatoes, Red Wine Jus, Pea Salad
Eton Mess – Raspberries, Lavender, Meringues, Vanilla
Rhubarb Crumble – Violets, Vanilla Custard
Sticky Toffee Pudding – Roasted Hazelnuts, Vanilla Ice Cream, Butterscotch Sauce, Ginger
Having eaten at Michelin 3* Frantzén some thirty hours prior, a study in refinement rarely matched anywhere in worldwide, it was for the first of two dinners that a table was reserved at The Flying Elk, Björn Frantzén’s “Gastropub” yet another space like those from Ramsay and Keller that looks to cash in on its chef’s name without offering good value.
Located in Gamla Stan mere blocks from the original Frantzén but visibly larger in layout, a single floor offering both indoor and outside seating facing water, it was immediately on time at 17h00 that guests approached the hostess stand, indoor seating requested given the sun’s angle but neither windows nor shades offering much protection from rays that had already heated the room past temperatures comfortable for dining.
Offering traditional Scandinavian comfort Foods crafted to Björn’s standards and Cook Book, both it and one dedicated to his daughter with IDDM available for purchase or perusal, it was immediately upon seating that Staff informed diners that Fish and Chips were not available this evening, the Swedish Meatballs featured on a Kids Menu also probably something most Adults will pass on as they cost 10 SEK per year on the planet.
Dividing the offerings into Snacks, Starters, Mains, Classics and Desserts, a Tasting Menu dogmatically offered only to the whole table even if other diners are willing to match course-for-course a la carte at higher cost, it was not long after ordering that sweet and spicy Cheese Puffs landed alongside pricy Pork Rinds, the ~10 SEK per bite cost about 10x what such things cost minus benign Chipotle Dip in Mexico or even the United States.
Charging approximately 200 SEK per Appetizer, luxury ingredients combined with real estate costs and accolades something one must accept to dine at The Flying Elk, it was after requesting more water but before opting to move out of the sun that potted King Crab beneath Citrus Hollandaise and Carrots was joined by “Signature” Scallops, a decidedly decadent dish justifying such a designation with fluffy Eggs and Truffles swimming in Butter at the base and crispy Potatoes on top.
Now re-situated, a self-made choice that did not seem to sit well with the waitress, it was on recommendations that Schnitzel was sharable that just one “Main” was requested, 295 SEK justified by thinly pounded Veal with a crisp yet oilless Crust plus briny Butter, Roasted Potatoes and traditional Red Wine Sauce.
Using the Anchovy Butter liberally on both the roasted Spuds and triple-cooked Fries that even Heston Bumenthal would be happy with it was after deciding to purchase a signed copy of “Lagar mat for sugna diabetiker och annat folk” that sweet tooths were indulged, Frantzén’s Sticky Toffee Pudding not as moist or luxurious as many found in England but both the Eton Mess and seasonal Rhubarb Crumble with a sidecar of Vanilla Custard setting a high standard in terms of flavor, texture and presentation.