Flock & Fowl DTLV
Our Kaya Toast – SE Asian Coconut Egg Jam, Brioche, Fried Egg, House Sweet Soy
Flock Frites – Curly Fries, Parmesan, Flock Sauce, Herbs
Quinoa Salad – Fried Cauliflower, Almonds, Crispy Tofu, Sesame Vinaigrette, Chinese Sausage
Chicken Bao – Steamed Bun, House Pickles
Buttermilk Fried Chicken Benedict – Poached Eggs, Hollandaise Sauce
Cast Iron Chocolate Chip Cookie – Vanilla Ice Cream, Miso Caramel Sauce
Visited once at its prior location and recently featured as part of a #supportlocal catering initiative it was finally on Saturday that Flock & Fowl Downtown proved convenient, the newly launched Brunch offering daytime hours inside a beautiful space at The Ogden.
Just recently celebrating six months feeding DTLV, Chef Sheridan Su’s acclaim continuing to grow with a James Beard Foundation Semi-Finalist Nod in 2018, guests entering the doors of 150 North Las Vegas Boulevard will quickly find themselves met by ornate wallpaper and a well-stocked Bar, Chef Su’s Wife Jenny present and smiling as she guides guests to their seats and checks in frequently throughout the meal.
Lengthy but not wide with a view across Ogden Avenue not as interesting as the room’s décor, a gentle soundtrack full on this day with the likes of Tame Impala, it was with a frequent tablemate already present sipping Iced Tea that Water was offered, no “tap” suggested but instead a Charcoal filtered product from Vero not infrequently seen in fine dining that carries an unannounced charge of $2 per person.
Placing the new Brunch menu atop Flock & Fowl’s daily options, the words “Brunch without booze is just a sad, late Breakfast” falling on deaf ears with both diners and their waitress also missing the “Choice of a side” that was neither offered nor served despite small print below attempted cleverness, it was in five items that appetites were invested, Chef Su briefly present but the majority of cooking left in Michael Robert Rizzo’s capable hands.
Slightly less than 1/3 full just past noon, Bartender Adam Rains arriving later and enjoying thick-cut French Toast with his daughter at a nearby table, it was with order deferred to one of two waitresses that Kaya Toast first came out, the rarely seen specialty featuring buttery Toast made by Douglas Taylor at Jerry’s Nugget impressing by way of creamy Coconut Jam and a Sunnyside Egg plus reduced Soy though the decision to add Foie Gras was eschewed as it seems like an unnecessary, though fairly priced, up-sell.
Next served a sharable portion of Flock Frites, their omission from catering perhaps fortuitous as an on-site order straight from the fryer proved crisp and oilless with a great blend of Herbs and salinity even before adding umami via Flock Sauce, it was in follow-up that the unassuming Quinoa Salad quickly proved to be a highlight with Grains nicely cooked and slightly tangy while Cauliflower, Almonds, fried Tofu and $3-worth of additional Chinese Sausage provided heterogeneity that never got boring.
Using a Yelp! check-in for one Bao each, the item’s presence on Flock & Fowl Downtown’s menu a reminder of the Su’s start serving Buns at a beauty salon, it was with three great bites of Fried Chicken quickly devoured that more arrived in the hands of a younger waitress inquiring “is this table two?” after previously mis-delivering another plate, the golden organic Bird this time atop two brightly colored Biscuits and sautéed Greens with perfectly poached Eggs and vibrant Citrus Hollandaise.
Offering only two Desserts, though one might consider the French Toast as such during Brunch, it was with fond memories of the Cheesecake from catering still lingering that guests waited fifteen minutes for Flock & Fowl’s Cast Iron Chocolate Chip Cookie, another recipe from Chef Taylor that is served gooey and thick with a big scoop Vanilla Ice Cream and delightfully complex Miso Caramel Sauce.
FOUR STARS: Virtually faultless in terms of Food, the fact that Garlic Hummus was announced as unavailable at the start of the meal in addition to the forgotten Brunch side dish and small service errors another reminder that even a great Chef can be held-back by his staff, it would take little more than a bit of additional training and professionalism for Flock & Fowl to fly alongside Carson Kitchen, Esther’s and Atomic as a true downtown dining destination.
RECOMMENDED: Quinoa Salad with Chinese Sausage, Buttermilk Fried Chicken Benedict, Flock Frites, Cast Iron Chocolate Chip Cookie.
AVOID: N/A, though even minor unannounced charges such as the $2 Water remain a pet-peeve whether in casual or fine dining as it seems nickel-and-dimey.
TIP: Bunch is offered 11a-4p Saturday and Sunday with the full menu offered 5p till close daily.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.