Cold Brew Coffee
Unicorn Hot Chocolate
Juniper Sake Flip
Strawberry Jalapeno Cocktail
Double Chocolate Cookie Muffin
The Stove Cinnamon Roll – Pecan Sauce, Cream Cheese Frosting
Short Rib Empanada – Braised Short Rib, Oaxaca Cheese, Poblano Chiles, Salsa Arbol, Crema
Cereal Milk Yogurt – Housemade Yogurt, Cereal Milk, Berries, Granola
Suckling Pig – Smoked Pig, Biscuits, Poached Eggs, Brown Butter Hollandaise, House BBQ, Fried Jalapeno Chips
The Full Monte – Duck Confit, Gruyere, Batter Fried, Orange Marmalade
Sausage Corn Dog – Sausage dipped and fried in Pancake Batter, Whole Grain Mustard Maple Sauce
Acknowledging that Grand Openings, Play Dates, Soft Openings and Friends & Family are never the right time to assess a Restaurant beyond décor and aspirations it was along with one other that Brunch was experienced at The Stove on Saturday and although Standard & Pour will be missed the renovation by Chefs Antonio Nunez and Scott Commings has a lot to offer while the Food is creative, attractive and – most importantly – delicious.
Officially opening on 7/2/18 for daily Breakfast and Brunch, the menu a sprawling collection of plates that will almost certainly be truncated once diners’ preferences are determined, The Stove sees Chef Nunez re-enter the Henderson dining scene for the first time since departing Kitchen Table and with a much larger kitchen inside a multi-faceted dining space the experience is a choose-one’s-own-adventure of sorts ranging from Tea Parlor to Selfie Chamber and Private or Main Dining Room.
Keeping some aspects of the previous occupant intact, fans of Cory Harwelll’s short-lived attempt to broaden Henderson’s palate likely to recognize signage, wallpaper and even Straws, it was with warm welcome at the podium that guests were led to seats adjacent a kitchen now dressed like a home library, the bright white panels playing well off a lengthy table decorated in gold cutlery and flowers.
Playing a soundtrack heavy in old Motown and mid-tempo pop, the volume lively but conversation appropriate, it was by servers far better trained than many seasoned Restaurants that items were suggested and beverages served, some familiar faces in the mix and Chef Commings as well as Antonio splitting time between the line and touching tables.
Offering less than 1/2 the menu on this play-date, though still far more options and intrigue than places like eat or Babystacks, it was opting for items that seemed most esoteric that Cold Brew joined a Unicorn Hot Chocolate to start, the White Cocoa base thin but pleasant beneath sizable toasted Marshmallows while two Sake-based Cocktails served later proved refreshing without the likelihood of getting patrons tipsy early in the morning.
Moving on to the Food, anyone familiar with Antonio’s significant contributions to Kitchen Table or Scott’s underrated Brunch at Freedom Beat rightfully expecting big things, it was from a small number of Pastries that a fairly standard Blueberry Muffin was dwarfed by a rich mound of Chocolate riddled with Chips and topped with Cookies, a made-to-order Cinnamon Roll arriving next immediately contending for “city’s best” accolades thanks to fluffy Brioche and a pair of housemade Sauces from which the one with Pecans fared best.
Unable to exist on Sugar alone per the lady at the table, Pancakes and French Toast thus saved for an already planned 7/14/18 return, it was with “Cereal Milk” Yogurt a bit too sour beneath early season Berries that attention turned to Short Rib Empanadas plus Sausage Corndogs, the former rich and tender with subdued heat while the Artisan Sausage centering golden Pancake Batter made for one helluva “Pig in a Blanket” whether naked and savory or dipped in Mustard-speckled Noble Syrup.
Making a difficult Entrée decision even with half of the menu saved for Friends & Family Day two, Poutine Waffles and Pecan Pie Pancakes both calling out, it was alongside “The Full Monte” which Chef Nunez originally created on request off Horizon Ridge that an equally decadent creation was presented, a plate simply described as “Suckling Pig” featuring house-smoked Pork atop fluffy Biscuits with poached Eggs and Brown Butter Hollandaise that is not only delicious but likely large enough to be shared by most.
RECOMMENDED: Double Chocolate Cookie Muffin, Cinnamon Roll, Short Rib Empanada, The Full Monte, Suckling Pig.
AVOID: Cereal Milk Yogurt needs either more sweetness in the base or macerated/sugared Berries.
TIP: 7a-3p daily in the main dining room and 10a-5p daily in the tea lounge.