Dulce de Leche Coldbrew
Madelines / Chocolate Almond Madelines / Strawberry Linzer Cookie / Brioche Doughnut with Vanilla Frosting and Sprinkles / Chocolate Chip Cookie
PB&J Egg Biscuit – Fried Egg, Peanut Butter Mousse, Bacon Jam, Jalapenos
Vegan Chocolate Chip Cookie
Deep Fried Bacon – Spicy Maple Syrup
The Monte Cristo – Country Ham, Swiss Cheese, Brioche, Pancake Battered, Strawberry-Rhubarb Jam
Foie and Cherries – Amaretto French Toast, Seared Foie Gras, Red Wine Soaked Cherries, Toasted Almonds, Orange Zest
Brie Pancakes – Brie, Apples, Cakes, Lemon Zest
Poutine Waffle – Liege Waffle, Fries, Smoked Pork, Caramelized Onions, Brown Gravy, Cheese Curds, Chives, Egg
Mexican Ice Cream – Housemade Ice Cream, Fried, Churro Waffle, Dulce de Leche, Orange Zest, Cinnamon-Sugar
Anyone who knows a thing or two about dining in Las Vegas has likely come across something Antonio Nunez has been a part of, time at Whist, STK, Brooklyn Bowl plus Mercadito in addition to building Kitchen Table’s menu now yielding The Stove in Henderson where he and Chef Scott Commings have converted the former Firefly into a place locals will hopefully seek out for an elevated Breakfast, Bunch or Tea Party in the Afternoon.
Open from 7am until 5pm daily, the dining room closing at three o’clock but Tea Lounge remaining open later, guests arriving at 11261 South Eastern Avenue will find the Restaurant operating in a second floor space last inhabited by Standard & Pour, the room brightened up by white plus several elegant touches including a living garden and fresh flowers, this particular date also sporting a large crowd with several parties waiting more than twenty minutes for a table.
Covering all the Breakfast and Lunch basics with a diverse Menu that also spins wildly innovative, a Deep-Fried Duck Confit Sandwich coined “The Full Monte” just one example in addition to plates sporting Caviar or Foie Gras, it is after navigating a list of low ABV Cocktails plus Coffee and Tea that guests are encouraged to take a look at The Stove’s Pastry Counter, items changed up daily and modestly priced in the range of $2-7.
Opting for one of several flavored Cold Brews during the hot Las Vegas Summer, thick streaks of Cajeta lining a tall glass and adding smooth sweetness when stirred, it was from six Pastries that bites were shared to start, both styles of Madeline a bit more like a Financier in terms of texture although still delicious while the Linzer filled with Strawberry Jam and Vanilla Brioche Donut were both well-crafted though $7 for the latter seems a bit overpriced considering Nunez’s exemplary Cinnamon Roll comes in a more sharable portion for just four dollars.
Next noticing Chef Comming’s Deep-Fried Bacon amongst several savory Starters, a dish that shined at Freedom Beat no less crisp and splurge-worth down in Henderson, it was with a “PB&J” Biscuit plus two types of Chocolate Chip Cookies that course one came to a conclusion, the latter each approximately 50% Chocolate with the Vegan version more thick and chewy while the Biscuit itself is crumbly and full of Butter around toppings that dance in harmony with a slightly spicy linger.
Met with difficult decisions as relates to Entrees, four pages of choices not easy on the indecisive or those who want it all, thanks are due to General Manager Landon Pugmire for helping to break some ties amongst four at the Table, his recommendation of the Poutine Waffles absolutely spot-on despite what purists may think as Antonio’s smoked Pork and Onions marry nicely to traditional Gravy, hand-cut Fries and fresh Curds plus sill-crispy bits of Liege Waffle.
Continuing a mostly savory approach to this round, the golden Monte Cristo with only Ham and Swiss performing admirably owing to a virtually oilless bite topped in housemade Jam, those expecting Maple Syrup sweetness from Pancakes would probably be better off looking elsewhere than The Stove’s Brie version, the fluffy rounds instead bright with Herbs and awash with Cheese plus Lemon Zest and stewed Apples.
Not the sort to pass up Foie Gras when offered, in this case as a seared Steak atop Almond-soaked French Toast and Cherries that have been stored in Wine for over three-months, it was in grand finale fashion that Dessert arrived as hard-packed housemade Ice Cream fried in Streusel atop another Waffle dredged in Cinnamon and Sugar, the unannounced addition of Dulce de Leche making up for any sweetness missed out on earlier and a great bargain at just $9 for something that clearly involves a lot more time and effort that what one is likely to find at their local Mexican Restaurant.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: With Henderson already miles ahead of Off-Strip Las Vegas in terms of Breakfast and Brunch The Stove adds yet another great choice with a distinct voice to the conversation, service already leaps and bounds ahead of more established venues while the large menu offers options suited for all sort and plenty of reason to return.
RECOMMENDED: Vegan Chocolate Chip Cookie, PB&J Egg Biscuit, Deep Fried Bacon, Monte Cristo, Poutine Waffle, Mexican Ice Cream.
AVOID: The Doughnut is good, but not better than Pink Box or ACE’s best considering the 2x cost while Brie Pancakes would benefit from more Apples or perhaps making them into a Chutney with Nuts and spreading it between the layers.
TIP: 7a-3p daily in the main dining room and 10a-5p daily in the tea lounge. Reservations accepted by phone or online check-in using TablesReady.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.