The Goodwich South Buffalo
Baa-mento Cheese – Sheep & Goat Pimento Cheese, Gluten Free Cracker, Celery, Radishes
Burrata – Peaches, Nuts & Seeds, Spiced Honey, Basil, Baguette
Tomato Ciabatta – Heirloom Tomatoes, Aioli, Smoked Salt, Olive Oil
RU Chicken – Crispy Chicken, Yellow Buffalo Sauce, Saffron Slaw, Pepper Jack, Sesame Bun
BLTG – Goodwich Bacon, Lettuce, Heirloom Tomato, Cheddar Grits, Ciabatta
Tater Tots – Harissa, Ketchup
Candied Carrots – Pink Peppercorn Honey, Walnuts, Herbs
Peach Skillet Pie – Almond Streusel
Originally a silver box in front of Dino’s Lounge it did not take long for Joshua Clark’s The Goodwich to develop a following and move to Soho Lofts, but by opening a second location in the booming Southwest it seems the concept is ready to take a big step forward in becoming more than just Sandwiches and instead one of the area’s most inspired Chef-driven Restaurants.
Located at the corner of Buffalo and Warm Springs in a complex also featuring Burgers and Sushi Burritos, a number of local businesses including St. Rose Dominican Hospital providing an “if you build it they will come” customer base for any place willing to go the extra mile, Thursday night found The Goodwich only approximately 1/4 full minutes to 6:00pm, manager Nichole Hall greeting familiar faces and first timers though the fact that no menu is yet officially posted online probably does the place no favors in the case of those unfamiliar and unadventurous.
Again sticking to the “STACKED-RITE” philosophy of local-seasonal ingredients and familiar concepts formatted to a mature palate it was shortly after sitting at a banquette paralleling the bar that choices were debated, bottled Iced Tea poured for two and seven savories selected, though at least a dozen more including “Land, Sea, Earth” daily specials called out.
Not yet with a liquor license but in the process, a temporary BYO opportunity offered for those so inclined, it was as Pop and Rock from the 70s and 80s played overhead that things got started, the $5 Tomato Ciabatta an absolute bargain that shows off Clark’s sourcing by being simple but beautiful while $9 each for Burrata amidst Granola and Organic Peaches or housemade Pimento Cheese that bests almost anything one will find in the South are also a deal.
Moving on to more substantial things but intent to see variety over a sizable Steak or piece of Fish it was next in two Sandwiches that appetites were entrusted, a misprint on the menu thankfully finding RU Chicken on a fluffy Sesame Bun instead of Ciabatta and singing as light spice met aromatic Slaw while the BLTG was compromised by Bacon that did not seem cooked quite well enough, those the textural interplay of crisp Lettuce and juicy Tomatoes with thick Grits was unexpected yet excellent.
Matching Carson Kitchen Tot for Tot, the Harissa selected instead of simple Salt and Pepper pleasing even those sensitive to spice, it was in a side of Candied Carrots that The Goodwich last showed signs of its evolution, the piquant Honey finding its foil in Walnuts with a fresh herbal linger, the sweetness prominent enough that some may consider it for Dessert though that task seemed much better suited for a Peach Pie served in cast iron that will soon be offered with housemade Soft Serve.
FOUR STARS: Admittedly judging an incomplete product, but having done so at locally owned Restaurants including The Stove last week, The Goodwich is off to a great start in the Southwest and in a few weeks should have initial kinks worked out, artwork completed, an Ice Cream maker, Alcohol License and locals lining up for a Restaurant that immediately ups the quality of dining in the Southwest.
RECOMMENDED: Tomato Ciabatta, Baa-mento Cheese, RU Chicken, Candied Carrots
AVOID: Bacon on the BLTG was a bit underdone and too much toasting time on the Almond Streusel left a faint bitter finish on some bites of Pie.
TIP: 11a-10p daily with specials featured on Social Media.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.