Amuse – Tuna Croqueta, Yuzu Aioli
Yacht Seafood Tower – 12 Oysters, 3/4 lb Alaskan King Crab, 1 1/2 Maine Lobster, 10 Jumbo Shrimp, Spicy Cocktail Sauce, Kimchee Mignonette, Apple Mignonette, Spicy Remoulade, Devil’s Dip Sauce, Shark Sauce
Harvest of the Day – Grilled Pears, Poached Pears, Winter Radish, Pickled Cherries, Burrata Cheese
Tiradito – Branzino, Aji Amarillo, Pickled Shallots, Fresno Chilis, Taro Chips
Seared Ahi Tuna – Shaved Foie Gras, Bacon Powder, Watermelon Radishes, Pickled Onions, Pickled Carrots
Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Beef – Himalayan Salt Rock, Black Pepper, Fresh Wasabi, Greens
Shrimp and Vegetable Frito Misto – Champagne Vinaigrette, Lemon, Herbs
Lobster Fried Rice – Lobster, Farm Egg, Spring Vegetables, Furikake
Crispy Red Snapper – Panang Curry, Fall Squashes, Asparagus, Pickled Vegetables
Viking Village Scallops – Carrot Puree, Morels, English Peas, Squid Ink Adobo
Day Boat Halibut – Asparagus, Roasted Eggplant, Romaneso, Salmon Roe, Tamarind Broth
Mascarpone Cheesecake – Mascarpone, Strawberry Gelee, Pistachio, Yuzu Sorbet / Chocolate Cake – Caramel Mousse, Raspberry Chocolate Ganache, White Chocolate Cream / Chocolate, Sea Salt & Caramel – Chocolate Sauce, Candied Hazelnuts, Chocolate Crumble, Nutella Gelato
Now featuring the combined talents of Chefs Marty Lopez and Christian Concepcion it was on Saturday evening that the table was set for three at Herringbone Las Vegas, the tandem of Ceferin Oliva and Ciprian Nedelcu as always providing exquisite service throughout a four course meal as the D.J. spun tunes and College Football played on television.
No doubt a different place than when it opened, the change in toques and ownership moving Geno Bernardo’s early Cal-Italian menu towards a lighter style of cooking based on bold spicing and global influence, it was shortly after seating that greetings were offered and drinks poured, a lone Cocktail plus Prosecco and Iced Tea enjoyed in celebration of one guest’s Birthday.
Deferring an order to the kitchen without allergies or restrictions, two concept plates plus a nightly special the group’s reward for placing their faith in Marty and Christian, it was beginning with fresh Seafood that an eleven year old who loves Oysters smiled ear to ear, a tasting of three varieties favoring small to large and all best with Apple Mignonette while “Devil’s Dip” made Jumbo Shrimp shine, though wrist-thick King Crab and Lobster were best enjoyed without accoutrement.
In no rush and happy to progress at a casual pace, the meal’s three hour duration seemingly less than half that, it was next that seasonal Produce was used to create a Salad of Fruit and Cheese alongside two plates of Fish, the Branzino taking on Peruvian influence with spice and acid in balance while lightly seared Tuna created in the spirit of Char Siu showed that Herringbone is not afraid to take chances as complex ingredients all melded together harmoniously.
Slowly savoring bites as Auburn was upset and Notre Dame pulled away, the clearing of plates followed by clean ones plus the appearance of a tableside cart, it was using Fat to prime the stone that Chef Lopez set to lightly cooking A5 Miyazaki Beef while Christian prepared Greens and grated fresh Wasabi, though no matter how rich and indulgent the Steak it would prove difficult to turn attention away from a dish listed as “Shrimp and Vegetable Frito Misto” that riffs on Filipino Ukoy with a tangle of Greens and Shell-on Crustaceans intended to be garnished with Citrus and Champagne Vinaigrette.
At this point sated but equally excited to see what was next it was by four plates that the table was once again filled, three new menu items plus a whole Red Snapper fried and served with Panang Curry all competing for stomach space with the Lobster Fried Rice an admirable side but Chef Marty’s heritage-infused Scallops Adobo as well as flaky Halibut in Tamarind Broth both so intricate that each bite compelled another until everything was gone.
Continuing to take an “if it’s not broke don’t fix it” approach to Dessert, both the creamy Cheesecake and indulgent Chocolate duo enjoyable though one does wish the Bread Pudding or Carrot Cake would return, it was with wishes made and candles blown out that the night would finish, a crowd just returning from UFC 229 creating a buzz on Aria’s lower level though the best show of the night had actually just been put on by a Kitchen upstairs.
FIVE STARS: Although both ownership and Chefs have changed since Herringbone Las Vegas opened a visit on Saturday showed the kitchen to be producing its most delicious food to date, Chef Marty Lopez’s Filipino background frequently infusing plates with big flavors while Chef Concepcion’s skills are witnessed in an ability to coax already great ingredients to their utmost.
RECOMMENDED: Yacht Seafood Tower, Shrimp and Vegetable Frito Misto, Day Boat Halibut, Salted Chocolate Caramel Tart. Also Crispy Red Snapper and Seared Ahi Tuna if available.
TIP: As stated above the Ahi and Snapper were both works in progress that may not be currently available while A5 Wagyu was a weekly special, so check with servers for availability.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.