The Magic Noodle
Green Onion PancakesBeef Brisket Soup Noodles, Vegetables, Green Onion, Cilantro
Chicken Soup Noodles, Mushroom, Black Fungus, Vegetables, Green Onion
Dan Dan Noodles, Ground Pork, Pickled Green Beans, Peanuts, Green Onion
Chicken Chow Mein, Vegetables
Beef Brisket Soup Noodles, Vegetables, Green Onion, Cilantro
Like many culinary “trends” it took just one local success story to start the proliferation of hand-made Noodle houses in Las Vegas, The Noodle Man’s 2015 debut on South Rainbow since giving the Valley Shang, Mian and The Magic Noodle on Fort Apache where five guests sat down to Dinner this past Saturday.
Located in the busy strip-mall across from Wal-Mart near Tropicana, a center also home to Sweet Addiction, Squeeze-In and ACE Donuts, it was just past 6:15pm that the small space was found packed full with persons mostly of Asian ancestry, many satisfied faces visible and conversation kept low as eyes focused on a team of five visible through glass spinning or cutting Noodles, pouring Broth or wok-firing Vegetables.
Pleasantly decorated and family friendly, a trio of servers featuring one man and two women seating guests from a list hung near the door, it is immediately as one party departs that tables are bussed with the next seated, a double-sided laminated menu proving easy to navigate and yielding one Appetizer plus four sizable plates or bowls that all arrived simultaneously just fifteen minutes later.
Dining mostly with novices to this style of Food, a Midwestern upbringing further gifting three with a low tolerance for heat, it was beginning with six segments of crispy Dough flecked by Green Onion that Dinner was underway, each greaseless bite richly flavored and nice for transitioning between various Noodles though the Pancakes are additionally offered with Eggs or Pork that other tables seemed to be enjoying like Tacos.
Moving next to the Restaurant’s eponymous item, all four selections served with “Original” hand-pulled Noodles instead of flat or knife-cut versions as a result of guests not realizing the various choices were available until later, it was almost exactly one week after another disappointing Chicken-based Pho that The Magic Noodle’s Chicken Soup fared much better, the umami-rich Broth studded with at least three types of Mushrooms leaving behind just a touch of grease on the lips and no two bites the same thanks to a plenty of Meat and Vegetables.
Continuing with Chicken as the protein of choice for Chow Mein, a lot of Bean Sprouts and Cabbage plus reduced Soy adding complexity to springy Starch, it was veering spicy that classic Dan Dan Noodles left lips temporarily numb, a surfeit of Ground Pork and Peanuts welcomed to counter Sichuan Peppers and Chili Oil while Beef Brisket Soup was rich with surprisingly tender Meat but a bit too much Cilantro and a peculiar lingering sweetness.
FOUR STARS: Offering great value on the Dollar, four adults plus a child all sated for just $57 including tax and tip, it seems as though The Magic Noodle has found its stride less than one year after opening and with good Food plus service better than most of Spring Mountain Road additional visits to try more of the menu will surely follow.
RECOMMENDED: Green Onion Pancakes, Chicken Soup Noodles, Dan Dan Noodles.
AVOID: Beef Brisket Soup Noodles were fine, but could have been better with less Cilantro and sweetness.
TIP: 11a-10p Monday through Saturday and closed at 9:30 Sunday.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.