Brown Sugar Bagel, Maple Schmear, Salad
Latkes, Crème Fraiche, Apple Butter, Beet
Carrot Cake, Cream Cheese Frosting
Opting to complete a Tim Niver three-peat it was following meals at Saint Dinette and Mucci’s Italian a week prior that Meyvn was visited, the restaurateur’s new Minneapolis concept once again utilizing Chef Adam Eaton’s talents but this time centered on Montreal-style Bagels.
Located on the bones of a former restaurant at 901 West Lake Street, the spacious design with plenty of light bidding guests to place their order at a counter before choosing from a multitude of seating options, it is well before the 7am opening that an oven lovingly named Liza begins to toast rounds hand-formed downstairs while a menu of small plates accompanies at prices ranging $7-$17.
Dreamt up as a three-meal spot with Dinner service beginning at 5:00pm, the addition of Fried Chicken and Pierogis most noteworthy, it is from a list of Mediterranean and Jewish Deli items that decisions are made earlier, Shakshouka and Nova Lox both appearing quite popular but personal tastes opting for three alternative selections at a total of $26 including tax and gratuity.
Criticized by some as too pricey, the $5 for a Bagel and Schmear undoubtedly higher than Panera or Einstein Bros. but justified immediately as teeth crackle through a wood-fired skin to find soft insides and velvety Cream Cheese, it was just as the Sugar-coated masterpiece was finished that three Potato Pancakes arrived, the taste and texture identical to Chef Eaton’s “Hash Brown” from Saint Dinette but this time accompanied by housemade Apple Butter and pureed Beets for $9 instead of Caviar and Cream for $10 which, by comparison, does seem a little steep.
Rounding out the menu with Desserts, warm Chocolate Chip Cookies from Liza no doubt tempting, it was instead a generous square of Carrot Cake that called out for seven dollars, the presentation perhaps not as elegant as a triangle slicked in Buttercream but everything else about it pretty much perfect from the Bread Pudding-like texture with bold spicing to the gooey pool of Frosting.