Butter Croissant, Vegan Maple Walnut Cookie, Blueberry Scone, Rocky Road Muffin, Blueberry Muffin, Zucchini Muffin with Raisins
Chilaquiles – Tortilla Chips, Green Sauce, Smoked Pork, Oaxacan Cheese, Scrambled Eggs, Black Beans, Crema, Overeasy Egg
Butternut Raviolis – Butternut Squash, Cheese, Brown Butter, Garlic, Arugula, Fried Egg, Toast
Chicken Fried Foie – Belgian Waffle, Foie Gras, Maple Gastrique, Pickles, Pickled Red Onions
Hangover Corndog – Beef Dog, Sweet Corn Batter, Cream Cheese, Onion Confit, Sunny-Side Egg, Sriracha, Simple Salad
Pecan Pie Pancakes – Buttermilk Pancakes, Pecans, Praline Filling, Pie Crust Crumble
Cinnamon Toast – Cinnamon, Butter
Crème Brulee Oatmeal – Apple Oatmeal Brown Sugar, Custard, Caramelized Sugar, Strawberries, Blueberries, Blackberries, Raspberries
Now serving Sin City for four months it was as a party of five that Breakfast was enjoyed at The Stove on Saturday morning, and although jammed-packed with a special event also planned for later the team from front of house to kitchen was yet again firing on all cylinders.
Fully entrenched in the old Firefly space, added foliage and knick-knacks creating a great looking room with plenty of variance from right to left, it was with the main dining room full that seating was offered at a sizable booth in the Tea Room, looks back toward Las Vegas Boulevard and Red Rock Canyon enjoyed as light music played overhead.
Happy to see Chefs Antonio Nunez and Scott Commings so busy, the availability of internet check-in definitely benefiting those who visit on weekends, it was from a familiar service staff led by Landon Pugmire that Coffee was prepared while menus were perused, a welcoming Pastry board arriving with three Muffins from which dense Chocolate and Marshmallow was best while a soft and buttery Scone also earned praise, as did the Maple Walnut Cookie so soft and chewy that it was hard to imagine being Vegan.
Focusing on new items or those not previously tasted instead of past favorites, though both the Full Monty and Bananas Foster Pancakes were considered, it was with five plates and two sides soon present that table-space was overwhelmed, the decision of where to start favoring savory in the form of Chilaquiles that feature crispy Chips and house-smoked Pork smothered in Cheese, Eggs and tangy Tomatillo Salsa atop a pureed Black Bean base.
Moving next to the oft-praised “Hangover Corndog,” Sriracha on the side for more sensitive palates, this Dog immediately outperforms most thanks to the all-beef Sausage and continues henceforth with Cornbread Batter, Cream Cheese and Onions made a fork-and-knife situation by sunnyside Eggs while the newly launched Ravioli also uses Yolk to meld Cheese, Butter and pureed Squash inside tender Noodles.
Reminiscing of childhood with Cinnamon Toast, each triangle justifying its $1 through plenty of Butter and bold aromatics, it was next that an item “for the refined palate” took center-stage, Foie Gras undergoing a multi-step process to survive deep-frying and come out crispy atop housemade Waffles complete with Pickles and Maple Gastrique that harmoniously blend sweet and savory.
Unable to leave without some of Chef Nunez’s Pancakes, the decision between five styles not an easy one, suffice it to say that those seeking “Dessert for Breakfast” need look no further than The Stove’s Pecan Pie stack with fluffy Buttermilk rounds separated by what is essentially melted Pralines, though a little item hidden in plain sight on the menu’s front page proved equally noteworthy in the form of custardy Crème Brulee Oatmeal that is anything but your typical stovetop stuff.
FIVE STARS: Previously stating that Nunez and Comming’s biggest challenge going forward would be balancing their own creativity with local palates it is with the Tea Room now truncated and menu edits in place that The Stove looks better than ever while still offering plenty of choices for the “Bacon and Eggs” sort and “Foodies” alike.
RECOMMNDED: Vegan Maple Walnut Cookie, Chilaquiles, Butternut Raviolis, Chicken Fried Foie, Pecan Pie Pancakes, Crème Brulee Oatmeal.
AVOID: Muffins would be better off with no liner as extricating them from the paper makes them both messy and tough to share.
TIP: 7a-3p Monday through Thursday and 7a-4p Friday through Sunday with online check-in using TablesReady strongly encouraged between 10a-2p.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.