Italian Loaf, Breadsticks
Carpaccio “alla Cipriani”
Baccala Mantecato with Fried Polenta
Baby Artichokes “alla Romana”
Baked Tagliolini with Praga Ham
Chilean Seabass “alla Carlina”
Risotto with Selected Mushrooms
Homemade Potato Gnocchi “al Gorgonzola”
Double Espresso with Ice and Butter Cookies
Vanilla Crème Meringue
Vanilla Gelato with Candied Nuts and Warm Chocolate
Traditional Panettone with Cream
Homemade Millefoglie with Crème Chantilly
While few save for moneyed tourists may realize Wynn recently added “Plaza Shops” including the likes of Kiton and Stefano Ricci word is beginning to spread regarding another sort of Italian import, the Cipriani family having chosen the lower level as a place to bring over eighty-five years of tradition with their first Restaurant west of the Mississippi River.
Known simply as Cipriani, an iconic logo prominently displayed on everything from signage to silverware, guests entering the Restaurant will immediately feel transported to a space miles from both The Strip and shopping, an interior from Michele Bonan intended to represent the core of a yacht with polished wood and plush seating beneath sizable art pieces, the bar and bathroom even going so far as to add portholes with looped LCD video of the open sea.
Famous for the Food and Beverage of Giuseppe Cipriani, a story that began at Harry’s Bar in Venice and now spans twelve cities around the globe, it is immediately upon entry that suited staff offers greetings, a variety of low-slung seating options spreading left and right while a private dining room is also offered for larger groups.
Authentically Italian and still family owned, a fourth generation continuing on the motto “to serve is first to love,” it is with Water poured and Bread offered that guests are left to decide amongst options from a menu that changes twice daily, the $17 Bellini originally invented by Cipriani in 1948 a popular way to start and although pricey certainly not lacking in ingredient quality while thinly shaved Carpaccio “alla Cipriani” is also highly recommended by staff.
Undoubtedly an elegant space, the requested Business Casual dress code met by charming servers that exude hospitality, additional Appetizers include Baby Artichokes imported straight from one of Venice’s many Islands plus creamy Salt Cod, the former sous-vided and extremely tender while the Fish whipped with Cream is better than any tasted in Italy, and something that cannot be found anywhere else in Las Vegas.
Maintaining its traditional feel with a heavily European staff, many including Pizzaiolo Ismaele Romano born in Italy and a visit to the kitchen finding several speaking their native language, it was with a textbook Margherita Pizza featuring good char and a puffy Cornicione that Entrees were preceded, Cipriani’s signature Tagliolini immediately proving worthy of praise with Praga Ham and thin Noodles beneath baked Cheese while Risotto portioned out tableside was tender but not soft and teaming with Mushrooms.
Neither wowed nor disappointed by Chilean Seabass “alla Carlina,” both the mild Fish and accompanying Rice Pilaf nicely cooked but not particularly exciting, it was Cipriani’s Homemade Potato Gnocchi that wrestled away the spotlight thanks to thick Gorgonzola and Cream that anchored feather-light Dumplings, a Double Espresso made from good Beans plus tiny Butter Cookies soon arriving to cleanse the palate in preparation for Dolce.
Offering nothing but luxury and exemplary Ingredients to this point, factors that earned Harry’s Bar recognition as a national landmark in 2001, it can safely be said that no meal at Cipriani is complete without tasting a slice of airy Vanilla Crème Meringue, though that most certainly should not preclude a sharable bowl of made-to-order Gelato served with candied Nuts and Chocolate nor seasonal Panettone imported from Venice – both Las Vegas’ best – while a Millefoglie suggested “to be shared” presumes guests will actually want to let anyone else get a taste after their first bite of something so refined and texturally masterful.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Although most traveling gastronomes will say Venice is more about the canals and culture than cuisine, those same folks also more likely to cite Las Vegas as a place for gambling or a show than one of its fine Restaurants, the Cipriani family now calls both cities home and for those seeking authentic Italian Food without going broke the new location at Wynn offers exactly that inside a great room with service to match.
RECOMMENDED: Baccala Mantecato with Fried Polenta, Margherita Pizza, Baked Tagliolini with Praga Ham, Homemade Potato Gnocchi “al Gorgonzola,” Vanilla Crème Meringue, Vanilla Gelato with Candied Nuts and Warm Chocolate, Traditional Panettone with Cream, Homemade Millefoglie with Crème Chantilly.
AVOID: House Bread is pretty basic, as is Chilean Seabass “alla Carlina,” while $17 for a Bellini that is at most 2.5oz seems a tough sell in a city where “bottomless” can be found for $20.
TIP: Lunch Daily 11:30am–4:00pm, Dinner Sun-Thu 4:00pm–11:00pm and Fri-Sat 4:00pm–12:00am. Whole Panettone also for sale in store.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.