Lilia, New York NY


Cacio e Pepe Frittelle

Prosciutto, Balsamic Mustard, Parmigiano Butter

Sheeps Milk Cheese Agnolotti, Saffron, Dried Tomato, Honey

Mafaldini, Pink Peppercorn, Parmigiano

Squash Ravioli, Hazelnuts, Parmigiano, Rosemary

Ricotta Gnocchi, Broccoli Pesto, Basil, Pistachios

Olive Oil Cake, Figs, Grappa, Whipped Cream

Love it or hate it the trend of Restaurants featuring high volume and dim lighting has got legs, and on Sunday night in Williamsburg it was as a party of three that such things were tolerated to see what the buzz was about at Lilia, Missy Robbins’ still white hot space that is almost ready to celebrate its third anniversary.

Located at 567 Union Avenue and thus highly convenient via subway from Manhattan, the Bedford Avenue station just a few blocks walk, it was arriving fifteen minutes prior to a reservation booked exactly thirty days prior that guests were whisked away to a table, service pleasant but grating thanks to both over-explaining and recommending *everything* yet somehow failing to mention several daily specials.

No stranger to Robbins’ Cuisine, visits to both Spiaggia and A Voce occurring during her tenure, it was after brief perusal of labeled sections that the decision was made to order in four courses with a focus on Pasta, though first it seemed pertinent to take a look at Lilia’s oft-praised Cacio e Pepe Frittelle which eat like cheesy Popovers plus a plate of imported Charcuterie that comes with far too little housemade Bread for the sizable quenelle of Butter infused with Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Forced to ask for more Bread, three slices arriving room temperature almost fifteen minutes later with the first pair of Pastas, it was within one bite that surrounding annoyances including two diners making out were easily ignored, the tubular Agnolotti stuffed with Sheep’s Milk and perfumed by Saffron beautifully juxtaposed by Honey and Sundried Tomatoes while springy Ribbons of Pasta called Mafaldini lived up to accolades as Robbins’ best dish both in terms of taste and texture despite fairly simple toppings of Cheese and Pepper.

Certainly not a place that will ever be accused of rushing to turn a table, nearly half-an-hour between clearing course two and the arrival of another duo, it was unfortunately a bit too much Basil that compromised creamy Gnocchi while pockets of Squash were offered more subtly with Rosemary and Hazelnuts, the choice of just one Dessert to finish largely based on the late hour and a long day of eating but mostly enjoyable as crumbly Cake offered a gently sweetend base for Figs, a splash of Grappa plus plenty of Whipped Cream.

Lilia Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Category(s): Brooklyn, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Lilia, New York, Pasta, Pork, Vacation
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3 Responses to Lilia, New York NY

  1. I’m glad despite the various annoyances that you and the others enjoyed Lilia.

    As you know, I avoid restaurants with hideously high noise levels irrespective of how delicious the food may be. So I’ve never considered going to Lilia . Also, for the same reason, I never had her food at A Voce even though the 26th St. & Madison Ave. location was a short walk from our apartment. We actually had dinner the day A Voce Madison opened with Andrew Carmellini in charge of the kitchen. We had an early reservation (6 p.m., I think), so at first, it was reasonably quiet. But all too soon, as the tables filled, the noise level grew increasingly high and finally reached the point when it became intolerable. Too bad because Carmellini’s food was, no surprise, excellent. (Note: A Voce Madison and the one in the Time Warner Center have closed.)

    • I have been to perhaps 5 restaurants where the volume actually affected a meal. This was certainly one off them. I’m also tired of servers treating guests as though they have never seen a menu. Smilie: :) Stick with Benno when you want Italian.

      • Yes, Benno is my kind of restaurant. But sometimes we want a more casual a la carte Italian. It’s really too bad that Leonelli is so noisy because his food there is delicious. Fortunately, Maialino has a comfortable noise level, and we like the food a lot. And its location a few blocks from our apartment is a big plus.

        When PJ Calapa (who formerly was the chef at Michael White’s Ai Fiori) opened his own restaurant Scampi last year (201Smilie: 8), we had dinner there. The food was terrific. But, unfortunately, the noise level was way too high for me. We’ll probably try it for lunch sometime because we’ve found that noisy restaurants during dinner are often much quieter at lunch.

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