The Factory Kitchen
Pere Ubu – Ketel One Vodka, Lemon, Apple, Chamomille, Spiced Maple Syrup
Diablo – Galliano, Limoncello, Grapefruit, Blueberries
Iced Tea – Lemon
Prosciutto – 18 Month Aged Prosciutto di Parma, Lightly Fried Sage Dough, Arugula, Stracciatella Cheese, Liguarian Olive Oil, Black Pepper
Pancotto – Fried Duck Egg, Speck, Creamed Chard, Potato Vellutata, Crostone, Liguarian Olive Oil, Black Pepper
Pizzata Focaccina – Imported Crescenza Cheese, San Marzano Tomatoes, Capers, Sicilian Anchovies
Casonzei – Pork Sausage & Veal Ravioli, Cured Pork Belly, Sage Brown Butter, Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese
Mandilli Di Seta – Handkerchief Egg Pasta, Ligurian Almond Basil Pesto
Piemontesi – Red Wine Braised Beef Short Rib Agnolotti, Reggiano Cream Sauce, Sorrel
Anatra – Roasted Peking Duck Breast, Cannellini Beans, Farro, Braising Greens, Sun Dried Cherries
Fioretti – Oven-Roasted Breaded Cauliflower, Garlic, Parsley, Lemon, Capers
Double Espresso – Ice
Budino Pane – Warm Apple Bread Pudding, Caramel Gelato
Bignole – Chocolate, Hazelnut & Orange Cream, Candied Walnuts
Cannoli – Homemade Shells, Ricotta Filling, Orange Marmalade, Pistachios
A staple of Los Angeles’ Arts District since 2013 it was with a New Year that The Factory Kitchen debuted in Las Vegas, the space previously housing B&B completely reimagined modern as a welcoming point of entry to explore Chef Angelo Auriana’s regional Italian Cuisine.
Named for the original downtown space, Restaurateur Matteo Ferdinandi showing a lot of foresight by building early in an area soon to catch fire, it is immediately inside doors that open at 11:00am where guests will find both hostess and menu, prices typically a few dollars less than its former occupant though the cooking is every bit as satisfying and soulful.
Featuring clean lines from front to back, perhaps a bit sterile beyond the white-neon lounge but undeniably comfortable in terms of seating that includes banquettes and padded chairs, it is from polished service that pleasantries are offered prior to Cocktails, one called Pere Ubu featuring good viscosity and sweetness while the more pricey Diablo possesses complex herbal notes that play well off restrained bitterness and acid.
Quiet even at half-capacity, a gift at times compromised by tourists shouting down The Venetian’s “Restaurant Row,” it was while sipping and conversing that round one was presented, Chef Auriana’s famous Prosciutto as executed by Eduardo Pérez absolutely wonderful thanks to fried Dough and fresh Cheese plus nicely aged Meat while Pancotto brings the idea of “Breakfast for Dinner” to a whole new level by placing a fried Duck Egg atop Toast wrapped in smoked Pork and a base of nearly-liquefied Potatoes.
Investing next in one of three Focaccina, a “Pizza-like” interpretation of Focaccia di Recco featuring soft Cheese between crisp layers of Dough topped by vibrant Sauce, it was after devouring every bite that Pasta was presented, signature Mandilli Di Seta almost glowing green and as fresh tasting as it looked while stuffed Ravioli and Agnolotti were both precisely executed from thin Noodles to rich Fillings plus accoutrements that accentuate rather than overwhelm.
Keeping prices fairly appropriate even with Secondi and Specials, Ribeye at $48 and aged-Duck for $33 arguably a bargain considering the location, it was alongside boldly-flavored Cauliflower that the latter was presented, a full Breast left rosy and appropriately plated rustic atop tender Beans, Greens and Grains greedily sopping up the Juices of cooked Cherries.
Taking an Espresso along with Dessert, the fact that The Factory Kitchen only serves Raw Sugar and Stevia understandable but nonetheless flying in the face of science, it was from Pastry Chef Jorge Luque that three choices were felt indispensible, buttery Bread Pudding finished first as it was most temperature sensitive but the title of “best” reserved for either remarkably light Profiteroles dubbed “Bignole” or Las Vegas’ newly crowned standard-bearer for crunchy Shell and smooth Filling from Sicily.
FOUR STARS: With recent news that Fiamma will shutter and the likes of Portofino long gone it is on the bones of B&B that The Factory Kitchen stands, Las Vegas’ constant state of turnover bringing in another popular concept that executes well from start to finish and is only held back by a name that might confuse guests and a location that, due to outside noise, occasionally disrupts what is otherwise not only a delicious but well-priced experience.
RECOMMENDED: Pere Ubu, Prosciutto, Mandilli Di Seta, Casonzei, Fioretti, Bignole, Cannoli.
AVOID: Seating along the wall closest to Restaurant Row is frequently affected by outside noise and The Factory Kitchen’s decision to only serve “Natural” sweeteners may limit the enjoyability of Soft Drinks for some.
TIP: Open 11am until 11pm daily with menus and specials such as the Anatra updated frequently at www.thefactorykitchen.com/las-vegas/
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.