The Factory Kitchen
Bellini – Rose Spumante, White Peach Puree
House-cured Salmon – Buckwheat Toast, Capers, Red Onions, Lemon, Stracciatella
Frittata – Organic Egg, Asiago Cheese, Spinach, Red Onions, Plum Tomatoes
Tirolese Focaccina – Italian cured and smoked Ham, Imported Crescenza Cheese, Peppercress
Gnocchi Malfatti – Ricotta-Semolina Dumpling, White Wine braised Rabbit Sugo, Marjoram, Grana
Egg Raviolo – Braised Greens & Organic Egg filled Pasta, Pancetta, Brown Butter
Benedict – Two Poached Eggs, Crisp Polenta, Cotechino, Creamed Chard, Hollandaise
Steak Amore – Pancetta-wrapped Filet Mignon Medallions, King Trumpet Mushrooms, Parsley
Double Espresso – Ice
Agostoni – Chocolate Brownie, Hazelnut Crunch, Raspberry, Chocolate Mousse
Ricotta Pancakes – Kumquats, Mascarpone Crema, Blueberries, Lemon Zest, Maple Syrup
Impressed by a March visit to The Factory Kitchen it was with the introduction of Brunch that interest was quickly rekindled, a meal unique to the Las Vegas location allowing Chef Pérez and his staff to have a bit of fun with new recipes from the mind of Angelo Auriana.
A more sedate experience than dinner, overhead music down a few decibels and The Venetian’s Restaurant Row free of revelry, it was after greetings from Manager and Hostess that guests were led to a banquette along the inner wall, service pleasant as prior though pacing was a bit slow once the Restaurant started to fill around noon.
Warm and welcoming despite an upscale urban interior, the subdued color scheme and reclaimed wood beneath low ceilings producing a sense of intimacy that is at the same time approachable, it was while perusing a list of items that Water was filled, Cocktails soon to arrive including a proper Bellini available by the glass for just $12 or bottomless for $28.
Priced in line or lower than on-site competition, icons like Yardbird and Bouchon as well as Delmonico and Morels all competing with Grand Lux Café for top billing, it was ordering in parts that Brunch began with a plate of House-cured Salmon alongside traditional condiments, the “Toast” in reality warm Blinis that were gone too fast while slices of Fish were undoubtedly some of Sin City’s finest.
Moving next to Frittata, tanned-edges and raised center eating light but full of flavor, it was from the daily menu that Focaccina once again proved a highlight, crisp layers sandwiching soft Cheese this time a backdrop to thin strips of Pork plus organic Herbs that can be added to each diner’s liking.
Prone to daily menu changes, braised Bunny brightened by Citrus and a splash of Wine dazzling atop supple Dumplings, it is for the bargain price of $16 that guests receive two sizable Raviolo stuffed with Greens and Egg Yolk, a price-per-bite less than half what Carnevino once charged offering something every bit as delicious thanks to the addition of Pancetta cooked crisp in Brown Butter.
Conflicted by The Factory Kitchen’s Benedict, thick segments of slow-cooked Sausage proving difficult to cut without mashing a block of seared Polenta, it was fortunate that a serrated blade soon arrived alongside “Steak Amore,” the medium-rare Filet precisely cooked inside a ring of Pork and accompanied by nicely seasoned Mushrooms.
Requesting Coffee with “Dessert,” one a favorite of Pastry Chef Jorge Luque and the other offered only during weekend Brunch, it was much like Bignole and Cannoli last time that Agostoni offered bold flavors and textural contrast while $15 Pancakes were unfortunately a poor value compared to the stacks offered elsewhere, the two rounds also not fluffy as one might hope though the combination of seasonal Fruits and whipped Mascarpone was great.
FOUR STARS: Slowly gathering steam, but building a reputation on great quality and fair prices, The Factory Kitchen’s long-term success will depend strongly on its ability to differentiate itself from the rest of Venetian’s great Restaurants and after a look at both Dinner and Brunch it seems safe to say that aside from a few minor issues they are well on their way.
RECOMMENDED: Bellini, House-cured Salmon, Tirolese Focaccina, Gnocchi Malfatti, Egg Raviolo.
AVOID: Ricotta Pancakes need work and either price or portion adjustment.
TIP: Open 11a-11p daily with Brunch from 11am until 5pm on Friday through Sunday, though bottomless drink specials end at two o’clock.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.