Dorfstuben at Bareiss
Housemade Wheat Bread – Radishes, Herb Cream, Pork Spread
Dorfstuben Snack – Black Forest Ham, Black Pudding, Liverwurst, Lyonnaise Sausage, Head Cheese, Pickles, Eggs
Sweet and Sour Tripe – Fried Potatoes
Cream Schnitzel from Suckling Calf “Baden-style” – Fresh Mushrooms, Larded Noodles
Swabian Apple Fritters – Crème Anglaise, Vanilla Ice Cream
Rhubarb Strudel – Rhubarb Compote, Yogurt Ice Cream
Although most will know of Hotel Bareiss thanks to its Michelin 3* Gourmet Room, the well-appointed resort also offers classic Black Forest recipes from Chef Claus-Peter Lumpp at Dorfstuben, and on Wednesday afternoon the wood-paneled Restaurant staffed by two young woman in traditional dress served a hearty lunch of quality Ingredients at a price far lower than one might expect.
Still family owned in the town of Baiersbronn, an area many rightfully consider the epicenter of German fine dining thanks to Schwarzwaldstube as well as Bareiss, it is from on-site parking that guests will find the resort spread across several acres, the Restaurants inside a large lodge and Dorfstuben immediately right from the main entrance.
Intended to be casual, most diners guests of the resort and all fluent in German, it was after procuring English menus including a daily prix-fixe that decisions were made, one guest opting for Riesling that costs as much as Mineral Water and a large basket of warm Bread soon arriving along with crisp Radishes, Herb Cream and chunky Pork Spread.
Featuring seasonal items as well Dorfstuben Classics and “Regional Specialties,” the latter sections comprising the entirety of lunch, it was not long before an Appetizer titled “Dorfstuben Snack” arrived, house-cured Ham outpacing anything called “Black Forest” prior while Blood Sausage, Liverwurst and Head Cheese all battled for top billing with slices of a garlicky Link not far behind.
Rejuvinating the palate with housemade Pickles between bites, the Corn and Apple particularly memorable, it was with plates clear and service ware reset that Mains were presented, the sweet and sour Tripe perfectly cleaned and cooked to contrast crispy Potatoes while an entirely different style of Schnitzel saw Veal pan-seared in Cream Sauce with rich Egg Noodles and sautéed Mushrooms helping to rein in the saltiness.
Remaining rustic for Dessert, three-bite Doughnuts with Apples suspended in what eats like tempura-Brioche remarkably light and entirely oilless, there was simply no denying Rhubarb Strudel its place on the table and with sharp acidity finding balance in Butter, Sugar and Yogurt Ice Cream the plate as a whole ranks amongst the best dishes tasted during eight days in Germany.