Beef Tartare, Chives, Egg Yolk / Crustacean Chip, Shrimp, Pineapple, Coconut / Mackerel, Lime, Curry, Coriander
Scottish Salmon Tartare, Herbs, Watercress, Cream, Fennel Salad, Crispy Potato
Couscous, Pine Nuts, Parsley, Grilled Zucchini, Tomato, Saffron, Red Pepper-Ginger Coulis
2017 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Muscat Goldert
Seed Bread, Rye Bread, French Bread, Olive Bread, Salted Butter, Olive Oil, Australian Salt, English Salt
Breton Lobster, Poached Oysters, Coral Flan, Green Asparagus, Avocado and Saffron Dip, Lemon Grass Marinade
Salad of Grilled Artichokes, Crispy Artichoke Chips, Mustard Crème, Mustard Seed Vinaigrette, Black Truffle
Glazed Calf’s Liver, Morels, Young Peas, Meat Juice, Barolo Vinegar
Glazed Morels, Egg Yolk, Mushroom Jelly, Pearl Barley Risotto, Watercress, Light Morel Brew, Vin Jaune
Crispy Fried Red Mullet, Garlic Scales, Artichokes, Red Bell Pepper Coulis, Basil
Filled Baby Vegetable Tart, Tomato and Eggplant Compote, Pine Nut Marinade, Tomatoes, Onions, Basil
Variation of Barbarie Duck, Marinated Turnips, Mashed Hearts of Palm, Reduced Poultry Sauce with Bourbon Pointu
Puff Pastry with Green Asparagus, Young Peas, Spring Vegetables, Red Wine Sauce, Shallots, Parsley
Cheese from the Trolley, Focaccia Bread, Nut Bread, Fruit Bread
Melted Chabichou and Potato Mousseline, Young Herb Tips, Bear’s Garlic Pistou
Croustillant with Yuzu Foam, Rhubarb Sorbet, Yogurt Sorbet, Rhubarb Compote, Raspberry Crémeux, Rhubarb Sand
Gariguette Strawberries, Baba, Croustillant Gavottes, Strawberry Sorbet, Chantilly Crème
Sour Cherry Sorbet, Mousseline of Elderflower Wine, Sour Cherry Liquor Bonbon, Cocoa Biscuit, Hibiscus Brew
Inspiration of Tulakalum Chocolate “Grand Cru,” Banana-Lime Ice Cream, Caramelized Cashews, Creolic Sauce
Canele, Cannoli, Espresso Praline, Chocolate Covered Sour Cherry / Crème Brulee, Raspberry Tart, Paris Brest, Cannoli, Yuzu Cake, Canele, Chocolate Covered Sour Cherry, Black Forest Macaron
Nestled in The Black Forest since 1789, Traube Tonbach is considered one of Germany’s most luxurious destinations, and at Michelin 3* Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube Chef Torsten Michel continues a tradition of greatness that has yielded over 50 Michelin starred Chefs over the years.
Historically Germany’s most important Restaurant, three Michelin Stars awarded under the toque of Harald Wohlfhart whose tenure stretched from 1990 until 2017, guests visiting Baiersbronn are now treated to the talents of a man who served as Wohlfhart’s sous for over a decade, and from the moment one steps through the dining room doors it is hard to believe any aspect of the experience has ever been better.
Well appointed with an elevated view of the Black Forest, “Schwarzwald” in German, Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube resides in the heavily wooded main building but creates a light space thanks to bright whites and big windows, the show quick to begin before menus even arrive as guests are treated to bites including Beef Tartare, a refined Shrimp Chip and Mackerel brightened by Curry and Coriander.
Given the choice to order a la carte or via tasting, the latter ranging 165€ to 245€ depending on length and ingredients, it was with one Large Degustation plus a Vegetarian Menu and a glass of Wine each that dinner continued at a comfortable pace, Salmon Tartare and Red Pepper Mousse built on Couscous offered as Amuses to their respective menus with each just a hint of the artistry soon to come.
Taking no shortcuts, Bread repeatedly arriving warm and highlighted by Olive Focaccia as well as seeded Cereal Bread ready to be slathered in local Butter, course one offered tender Lobster medallions amidst saline Custard and Oysters perfumed by Lemon Grass, the harmony achieved undeniably impressive just as it was for wood-fired Artichokes that offered noteworthy variance from bite to bite depending on ratio of Black Truffle or Mustard involved.
Open to swapping items between tastings or even a la carte, it was trusting Chef Torsten that dinner continued henceforth, any preconceived notions about Beef Liver erased by a tender cut softened by Barolo and brightened by Peas while Morels offered their earthy aromatics to both this composition and the Vegetarian alternative featuring Egg Yolk cooked inside Mushroom Jelly that acted like the skin of a Ravioli.
Lightening up course three, a Filet of Red Mullet reminiscent of Guy Savoy in its use of crispy “scales” served amidst vibrant Red Pepper Coulis, it was with impressive artistry that the Vegetarian Menu one-upped its counterpart by way of tiny Tomatoes and Onions hollowed and refilled with fortified Cream atop a fresh Tomato Tart resting in Pine Nut Marinade.
Not an overly-long menu, though portions will assuredly challenge those of smaller appetites, savories concluded by way of Duck Margret and Confit alongside stacked Turnips and thin, yet intense, Sauce plus “Chef’s vision of Spring” as Green Asparagus and Young Peas forming the base to laminated Pastry ready to sop up what was described as “Beef-free Bordelaise,” though if served alongside the real deal only the most discerning might be able to detect a difference.
Proudly wheeling out a Cheese Cart, many local plus several from France offered with Bread, it was after taste buds were sent reeling by Cabri Ariégeois that the rest proved well-aged and pleasant, though the composed course of melted Chabichou and Potato Mousseline with Garlic Pistou was an enviable alternative and fantastic transitional dish to the Vegetarian Dessert offering Gariguette Strawberries in several textures atop a boozy Baba anchored by Chantilly Crème.
Equally elegant in the presentation of a Yuzu Croustillant in sour surroundings, this dish essentially a palate cleanser in preparation for Schwarzwaldstube’s reinterpreted Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, both this Dessert and its counterpart featuring Chocolate, Bananas and Lime were amongst the most complex sweets seen in Germany, each bite a little different from the last but all of them memorable and just as relevant to the whole.
Undeniably deserving of its accolades, not even one item from the collection of Mignardises lacking in terms of artistry or flavor, it was after settling the bill that guests were bid auf Wiedersehen with the lone regret being opting not to spend a night at Traube Tonbach in order to enjoy Breakfast the next morning.