Die Adler Wirtschaft
Pork Liver Pate, Brioche
2015 Riesling Cuvee Sektkellerei Ohlig Mit
Smoked Salmon, Cream, Pickled Cucumber
Focaccia, Baguette, Wheat Crackers, Olive Oil, Radishes, Herb Cream
Fried Black Pudding, Quince Puree
Paprika Pork Bratwurst, Onions, Bell Pepper, Lettuce, Potato Salad
Goose Foie Gras, Riesling Gelee, Housemade Brioche
Roasted Beef, Kohlrabi, Parsnips, Carrots, Sauce Bordelaise
Our Pork, White Asparagus, Venezianischer Sauce
Classic Apple Tart, Forest Honey Ice Cream, Caramelized Nuts
Cash-only, and 30 minutes from Frankfurt in the town of Hattenheim im Rheingau, Die Adler Wirtschaft features the talents of Franz Keller, a former Michelin 2* Chef who turned his attention to Animal husbandry, butchery and processing in 1993 and has since earned acclaim for his Pork, Beef and Sausages.
Not on most tourist radars as a result of its location and lack of discussion in guidebooks, a visit on the last Thursday in May finding the heavily-wooded space full of locals, non-German speakers looking to dine at Die Adler Wirtschaft would be wise to download a dictionary the day they make reservations, though staff do try hard to translate everything from Appetizers to Dessert with varying degrees of success.
Upscale but certainly not “formal,” this particular night hosting at least three well-behaved children plus one who was not, it was while chuckling at knick-knacks lining the walls that Pork Liver Pate on toasted Brioche arrived, this unanticipated Canape followed by an Amuse of Smoked Salmon, Cream and Pickles even before an order was placed.
Selling well-priced Wine by the glass, a request for something “local and slightly sweet” yielding 2015 Riesling Cuvee Sektkellerei Ohlig Mit for just 8€, it was next three types of Bread including malty Crackers that offered temptation, the Focaccia in particular standing out with or without Olive Oil while Herbed Cream went nicely with Radishes topped lightly by Salt.
Offered a la carte or Prix-fixe, the ability to mix and match allowing one meal of two Appetizers and an Entrée while the other included a choice from each course including Dessert, it was not long before three items arrived simultaneously by request, the skewered Brat snappy with smoke and spice equally evident while Pan Seared Blood Sausage and silky Goose Liver were each expectedly rich but beautifully paired to something sweet.
Serving most Meat dishes with sides selected by the kitchen, the small Potatoes with Oil and Herbs fine while Potato Cakes that eat like Angel Food are stunning, one would be hard-pressed to name more tender Roast Beef than Keller’s thick cuts beneath Bordelaise, and considering the portion size his farm-raised and hand selected Pork is a bargain alongside plenty of Asparagus.
Not about to leave without Dessert, plus a visit to the ATM on the corner, it should come as no surprise that a place so focused on heritage would finish rustic, every bite of Wirtschaft’s Apple Tart astounding thanks to paper-thin Pastry that remains crisp beneath Honey-glazed Apples best taken bite-for-bite with a big scoop of housemade Ice Cream sweetened by Honey from a nearby Forest.