Gästehaus Klaus Erfort
2018 Ruinart Brut Rose
Canapés – Black Pudding-Harzer Cheese Tartlet, Oyster with Chili Vinaigrette, Liquid Quail Sphere, Leek and Potato Sphere, Goose Liver with Sour Cherry Jelly
Bread Basket – Olive Sourdough Bread, Tapioca Bread, Soft Roll, Wheat Roll, Salted Butter
Amuse – Grilled Tuna, Tuna Tartare, Lime Sorbet, Ginger, Tomato Broth, White Garlic Mayonnaise
Cured Scottish Salmon – Cucumber Sorbet, Cucumber Vinaigrette, Cucumber Tartlet, Salmon Roe
Foie Gras and Prawns – Goose Liver Terrine, Prawn Tartare, Lime Oil, Ginger Jelly, Granny Smith Sorbet, Almond
Lobster Bisque – Raw Mushrooms, Seared Cepes, Beurre Noisette
Suckling Lamb – Princess Beans, Tomato, Eggplant
Buckwheat Parfait – Rhubarb Sorbet, Rhubarb Juice, Strawberry Foam Cannelloni
Petit Fours – Coffee Chocolate Opera Cake, Pomegranate Marshmallow, Ginger Lime Macaron, Pineapple Coconut Tartelet, Orange Caramel Choux, Raspberry Almond Bar
Espresso – Cream, Molasses, Sugar
Petit Fours – Canele, Madeline
Earning a first Michelin Star at age 21, prior to opening his eponymous Restaurant in 2002 and achieving 3* by 2008, Chef Klaus Erfort remains less celebrated than many of Germany’s elder-statesman, though lunch on the patio at the end of May proved not only enjoyable but well-priced considering both ingredient quality and service.
Approximately two-hours southwest of Frankfurt, a stately townhouse in Saarbrücken not far from the capital building containing the Restaurant in front of a small garden, it was after passing through a room of monochromatic art beneath high ceilings that a comfortable table was offered, the presence of a cigarette smoker fifty meters away not offending those nearest the building but nonetheless unexpected and hopefully not compromising the enjoyment of those seated closer.
Offering both lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, and dinner service only Saturday, it is with the choice of dining a la carte or via tasting that guests are presented, lunch additionally encouraging guests to succumb to Chef Erfort’s whim of four courses flanked by surprises, Champagne and Coffee for just 115€.
A serene setting, an occasional leaf falling from trees the lone interruption save for quiet conversation, it was with a glass of Sparkling Rose from Ruinart that Canapes arrived, a spicy Oyster unexpected considering the venue while modernist Spheres were each intensely salted before proceeding to Goose Liver Terrine and Jam plus housemade Blood Sausage on a Cheese Cracker.
Not short on table bread, four choices highlighted by a steamy Olive Loaf ready to be slicked in local Butter, the afternoon’s amuse arrived as large as a proper course, both Tuna preparations well prepared and the use of Sorbet to impart Acid surprising in its ability to compliment everything including Garlic.
Continuing with house-cured Salmon, the second use of Sorbet a bit questionable as it was largely melted and made irrelevant by Vinaigrette plus thinly sliced curls, course two was an a la carte addition for 48€, the smooth liver and sweet Meat beautiful in terms of taste and texture but yet another appearance of something frozen frankly embarrassing as it causes one to question Erfort’s creativity.
Joking with the server “lots of Ice Cream…” when asked about the meal so far, a language barrier presumably leading to the answer of “very good, thank you,” it was fortunate that lunch plate two was not only Sorbet-free but exquisite, nearly a half Blue Lobster immersed in Hazelnut Butter fortified by its Carapace and topped by Mushrooms both raw and seared.
Reputed for his grilled Meats, a 130€ Beef Cutlet for two amongst Erfort’s unchanging “Grand Classiques” it was with something more manageable for one that savories came to a close, approximately 450g of seared Lamb served atop snappy Beans and flanked by Tomato textures plus Eggplant.
Omitting a palate cleanser and proceeding straight to Dessert, early Summer’s bounty of Rhubarb seeing it smartly utilized to brighten a malty Parfait, Petit Fours arrived as six with all good but the Raspberry Bar outstanding while Espresso alongside a warm Madeline was textbook, though less so was a Canele too dark on the outside and undercooked at the center.