Muffins & Cookies – Chocolate Chip Cookie, Chocolate Chip Muffin, Blueberry Sugar Cookie, Blueberry Funfetti Muffin
Grilled Peaches – Blueberries, Candied Pecans, Feta Cheese, Arugula, Local Honey
Short Rib Empanada – Braised Short Rib, Oaxaca Cheese, Poblano Chiles, Salsa Arbol, Crema
Grilled Bread Pudding – White Chocolate Cap’n Crunch, Butterscotch, Sweet Cream
Duck Grilled Cheese – Duck Confit, Gruyere Cheese, Onion Confit, Orange Marmalade, Challah Toast, Side Salad
Fried Green Tomato – Poached Eggs, Sliced Avocado, Greens, Hollandaise, English Muffin
Crab Omelet – Spinach-Artichoke Cream Cheese, King Crab, House Potatoes, Challah Toast
Huevos Rancheros – Sunny Side Up Eggs, Tortillas, Red Sauce, Cotija Cheese, Avocado Crema, Black Beans
Steak & Eggs – Sunny Side Up Eggs, Chimichurri, Black Beans, Greens, Tortillas on the side
Though dining in the southeast remains somewhat dull after dark there is no question that the area’s Brunch scene is booming, Water Street’s Hardway 8 recently joining the likes of CRAFTkitchen while Truffles N Bacon Café now shares a complex with The Coffee Class, but since July of 2018 the area’s most creative morning plates have consistently come from The Stove at 11261 South Eastern Avenue.
A product of Established Culinary Management, or in other words the brainchild of Chefs Antonio Nunez and Scott Commings, it is on the second floor of a building with Las Vegas Boulevard views that guests will find Breakfast as well as Brunch daily, recently-promoted GM Summer Gates leading a youthful staff that offers an ideal blend of friendliness and professionalism.
Well appointed and still full of whimsy, though gimmicks such as a selfie-booth and “Twisted” Tea Room were smartly abandoned in favor of a focus on seasonality and customer service, guests will find comfort regardless of which room they are seated, while a recently updated menu features several new dishes alongside best-sellers ranging from simple Bacon and Eggs to Foie Gras atop Waffles.
Opting for a booth on the left-side looking in, at most times quieter than the primary dining room and even more so at 1:15pm, it was as a party of four that Breakfast began with Coffee, Cocktails and Pastries, the latter offered on a three-tier tower and highlighted by soft-centered Chocolate Chip Cookies plus fluffy Muffins given a touch of color amidst plenty of Blueberries and Butter.
Visiting the Restaurant for the first time with neither Scott nor Antonio present, a honey-soaked Salad of Peaches enjoyable despite sorely lacking for Nuts or Cheese compared to what @thestovelv shared on Social Media, it was on request that Empanadas were delivered in follow-up, the Short Rib expectedly tender and standing up nicely to two types of Chiles inside golden Pastry.
Henceforth focused on new items, though passing on Pecan Pie Pancakes is admittedly ill-advised, it was with serviceware re-set that grilled Bread Pudding arrived quickly, its intense sweetness likely to be polarizing amidst complex textures while an all new Sandwich from the “Lunch” section tantalizes taste buds thanks to Confit Duck Meat paired with Gruyere, Onions and housemade Orange Marmalade.
Globally influenced from Croque Madame to Vegan Tacos, a roadtrip south yielding Fried Green Tomatoes made into a Benedict with Eggs and Avocado, it is tapping Americanized Chinese that a King Crab Omelet reminisces of Crab Rangoon thanks to herbaceous Cream Cheese while included house Potatoes set a high standard by seemingly being fried, smashed, seasoned and fried again.
Finishing up savory, a plate of Huevos Rancheros from the acting Chef de Cuisine impressing with its slow-burn and cream-less Avocado “Crema,” fans of Steak & Eggs should not pass on The Stove’s cooked-to-order version brightened by house Chimichurri and usually served with Tortillas that were apparently forgotten on this particular afternoon.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Recently celebrating one year since opening, the new menu from Chefs Commings and Nunez continues to push the envelope in terms of creativity thanks to some innovative dishes while still executing basics like Breakfast Potatoes and poached Eggs with finesse. Not a flawless visit, though flavors and Ingredients are still exemplary, owners need to be sure both food and service remain up to standard when key personnel enjoy a deserved day off.
RECOMMENDED: Chocolate Chip Cookie, Short Rib Empanada, Grilled Bread Pudding, Duck Grilled Cheese, Crab Omelet, Huevos Rancheros.
AVOID: The Blueberry Sugar Cookie would be better without as many Sugar Crystals and the Peach Salad definitely would have fared better with more Cheese and/or Nuts.
TIP: 7a-3p Monday through Thursday and until four o’clock Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Those wishing to avoid a wait should show up before 9:30am, after 1:00pm or check-in by phone or online using TablesReady.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.