Rivea [2,] Las Vegas NV

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Rivea

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Champagne

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Grissini with Olive and Anchovy Puree

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Country Bread, Olive Focaccia and Wheat Crisps with Olive Oil

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Chilled Cantaloupe and Watermelon Soup with Thai Chili

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Roasted Panisse

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Marinated Seabass with Red Onion, Pomello and Pimento Pepper

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Octopus Salad with Garbonzo Beans, Green Onion, Confit Sweet Bell Pepper, Emulsified Hummus

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Provencal Caponata with Eggplant, Tomato, Olive and Pine Nuts

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Lobster Risotto in Shellfish Cream

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Bombardoni Pasta with Braised Short Rib, Red Wine Reduction

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John Dory with Calamari, Prawn, Clams and Bouillabaisse Broth

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Pacific Wild Halibut with Zucchini, Green and White Asparagus

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Ratatouille Cookpot with Peppers, Zucchini, Summer Squash and Garlic

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Angus Beef Rossini with Foie Gras and Black Truffle Sauce

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Sweet Corn Our Way with Cream, Zucchini and Red Peppers

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Double Americano

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Peach Melba with Peach Ice Cream, Red Currant Compote, Lime and Verbena Jelly

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Citrus Cup with Orange Marmalade, Candied Lemon, Campari Granite

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Limoncello Baba with Chantilly Cream

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Flourless Chocolate Souffle with Vanilla Ice Cream

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Opened in October 2015 as a rebrand of culinary giant Alain Ducasse’s miX, a meal early in its inception showing the food to be half-hearted and undersized while servers exuberantly looked for the upsell, it was with recent positive words from a trusted source that a reservation for two was booked on Friday night, Chef Bruno Riou having now dialed in the Mediterranean flavors while the room remains one of the very best ways to take in the Las Vegas sunset.

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Located high above The Delano, the Skyfall Lounge next door as popular as ever with tourists even though searing hot temperatures kept the patio closed until several hours after dark, it was by way of the externally facing glass elevator guests entered the space only to have to pass by the kitchen and chandelier of bubbles en route to the hostess stand, a reservation confirmed and seats at one of the tables looking straight out onto the city a comfortable place to spend nearly three hours in repast.

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Busy for Bastille Day, though the style of French served at Rivea is hardly the braised Meats and rich Sauces typically thought by most as typifying the country’s cuisine, it was shortly after sitting down that a glass of Champagne was presented along with the restaurant’s Grissini and Olive-Anchovy Tapenade, a trio of Breads served with Olive Oil not far behind alongside a nightly amuse of Watermelon Gazpacho poured tableside over chilled Cantaloupe with a subtle bit of heat.

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Remaining one of Las Vegas’ most breezy dining rooms, the seaside blues and high ceilings further opening up a contiguous space that sees the Valley spread in all directions through glass, Rivea’s current “Tour de la Riviera” tasting soon continued by way of a trio of plates including Seabass Crudo with Citrus and Pimento Pepper alongside chunky Eggplant Caponata and Chickpea Fries plus an added plate of tender Octopus served with crispy Garbanzo Beans and aerated Hummus, the flavors all bright and fresh though the Panisse would have benefitted from a dipping Sauce or something to help give it an identity outside of the Salt atop its crunchy coating.

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Moving next into a Pasta duo, each served family-style with the Risotto perfectly cooked in Shellfish Stock and a small bit of Butter-poached Lobster at its center, Chef Riou showed a skilled hand by way of the al dente tubes served in Sauce Bordelaise, the Short Rib fork-tender with a great depth of flavor and roasted Tomatoes adding just enough acid to keep the beautifully executed sauce from being too rich at such an early point in the evening.

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Serving relatively small portions of each plate as part of the tasting, slightly larger presentations available a la carte as noted at surrounding tables, course three of the tasting was titled “Fish” and although those averse to flavors of the sea may wish to think twice about John Dory served a la briny Bouillabaisse the dish is true to its description with a jumbo Prawn served amidst Calamari and Clams plus buttered Toast while the Wild Halibut sings of Summer with a lightly saline Foam, two types of Asparagus and slices of Zucchini.

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Requesting one of Ducasse’s signature Cookpots as well as a side of Creamed Corn with Peppers be added, the former served in the style of Ratatouille along with the Fish while the latter came as a side to a medium-rare Filet of Prime Beef with Foie Gras and Australian Black Truffle Sauce, those expecting a French Classic on Bastille Day would not be let down by Angus so tender that it could have been cut with a butter knife, the Duck Liver caramelized on the surface and creamy within while the Mashed Potatoes and gently warmed Endive were just enough to refresh the palate between bites.

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Taking Coffee along with Dessert, two seasonal additions presented along with a pair of classics, suffice it to say that the Citrus Cup rang true to its name with mouth-puckering combination of Rind and Marmalade that ate somewhat like a Pudding, the flavors too intense for one at the table while the Peach Melba offered a more mild flavor, Chef Ducasse’s famous Baba just as wonderful with Italy’s famous Lemon Liqueur as it is with Rum while the Chocolate Souffle proves worth the 18-minute preparation time thanks to a good rise and soft center that becomes a warm Pudding with the addition of Vanilla Ice Cream.

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FOUR STARS: Without a doubt the lightest flavors of Sin City’s four French Masters, the price-point on par with Twist and quite a bit lower than Savoy or Robuchon, Rivea seems to have found its stride as year three approaches, the food matching the room and Chef Riou executing every plate expertly while the staff manages a balance of personality and professionalism that many guests who fear French Restaurants as ‘snooty’ will be comfortable with.

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RECOMMENDED: Provencal Caponata, Octopus Salad, Bombardoni Pasta, Seasonal Cookpot, Chocolate Souffle, Limoncello Baba.

AVOID: Panisse Frites are fine but need a bit more to justify the pricepoint, Citrus Cup needs something like whipped cream that can be added on a per-bite bases to help offset the bitterness.

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TIP: Offering Dinner from 6pm daily Rivea is best accessed by way of Elevators of the Delano Lobby, though those wishing to partake in the view from Skyfall are encouraged to take the elevator located just outside Michael Jackson ONE by Cirque du Soleil.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

https://www.delanolasvegas.com/en/restaurants/rivea.html#/Overview

Rivea Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Octopus, Rivea, Souffle, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Truffles Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Amass, Copenhagen DK

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Amass

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Bergamot, Barley Juice

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Carrot, Cauliflower, Potato Crisps

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Egg Yolk, Fava Beans, Garden Herbs, Sunflower Seeds

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Potato Bread, Roasted Kale, Almond Puree, Hemp Seed Oil

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Mackerel, Green Strawberries, Rapeseed Oil

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Danish New Potatoes, Lovage Oil, Hemp Seed Puree

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120-Day Dry Aged Beef Tartare, Smoked Sea Snails, Black Chestnuts, Salted Turnips, Roasted Hay

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Peas, Borrage Flowers, Sunchoke Leaves, Marigold

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Chicken Thigh, Chicken Broth, Brown Butter, Fennel Oil + Snap Pea Salad, Gooseberry, Pickled Fennel Seeds

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Crispy Olive Oil Cake, Frozen Bronze Fennel Parfait, Sour Caramel

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Roasted Beetroot Sorbet, Rhubarb Cultured Cream Broth, Salted Barley, Pickled Pine Crumble

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Chocolate Ganache, Torched Marshmallows, Cardamom Crackers

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A rare non-Nordic success story in the post-Manifesto era, Chef and owner Matt Orlando an American who began his cooking career in Southern California, Amass was booked as the final dinner during an eight day stay in Denmark, the restaurant’s out of the way location in Northern Christianshavn yet another quirk that helps it to stand out, though not always in ‘good’ way.

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Originally opened in summer 2013, Orlando fresh off stints at world-class restaurants including The Fat Duck, Per Se and noma, the later a nearly three-year CDC position during which he developed a passion for Copenhagen and its terroir, diners visiting Refshalevej 153 can almost universally expect to pass right by before retracing steps in an area filled with warehouses, the small sign pointing up a flight of stairs that are descended once inside to a room that is both tall and wide.

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Far from an intimate setting, the budget tables, concrete pillars and pop-art murals all creating an atmosphere far more ‘American hipster’ than what is found at Stud!o, kadeau, Relæ or other Michelin-starred spaces in town, it was after checking in with a hostess who would later be seen serving wine and helping clear tables that a party of one was led to a seat adjacent the kitchen, the line of sight partially obstructed by a pony-wall and shouts of “YES CHEF” booming at an unnecessary volume at least seventy times throughout the course of a nearly three and a half hour meal.

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Following the same pattern as many ‘New Nordic’ restaurants in offering only a Chef’s Tasting, the Menu 695DKK and an extended version adding another three courses for 200 Krone more, it was with a glass of cold Bergamot and toasted Barley in hand that the meal got started, three types of vegetables baked into crisps whetting the palate prior to a deep vessel oddly reminiscent of a dish from Manfreds that afternoon featuring a sous-vide Egg Yolk and Sunflower Seeds in an herbal Pudding.

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Celebrated by many for simplicity similar to what Puglisi suggests at his flagship, Chef Orlando even going so far as to have a biodynamic garden on-site from which many Organic Herbs and Vegetables are sourced, the next item offered was Amass’ famous Bread imbued with Potato Skins, the grilled round served hot and moist alongside a spread made of Kale and Almonds actually quite delicious despite its heft and a nice lead in to the night’s first proper ‘course’ of fresh-caught Mackerel topped in diced Green Strawberries alongside a slick of Rapeseed Oil.

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Having seen a fair number of “New Potatoes” by the 47th dining destination of the trip, Orlando’s version fairly underwhelming atop pureed Hemp Seeds and the flavor of Celery, course three featured dry-aged Beef hidden beneath Flowers amidst the brine and sweetness of Sea Snails and Black Chestnuts with Turnip Chips, the depth of flavor compelling enough to warrant eating a fairly large portion before the menu once again took a step back with sweet Garden Peas compromised by the bitter and dirty flavors of Calendula and Sunchoke.

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At this point subjected to a lengthy delay, the room no more or less busy than prior but nearly forty-five minutes separating a two-part main course from those before it, suffice it to say that Orlando’s Chicken Thigh in Brown Butter did little more to wow than a store-bough Rotisserie Bird, the Salad also missing the boat by being too acidic and thus making another piece of Potato Bread necessary, though the wait for it was also quite protracted.

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Now anticipating a series of holdups, an issue encountered several times in Copenhagen when the menu transitioned from savory to sweet, the source of the bottleneck was discovered as the open kitchen allowed one to watch Chefs normally charged with Produce move back and forth to the Pastry station, essentially a two man show that steals labor from one place to accomplish something known to be necessary, though the first of three Sweets was fairly light work with the fragrant Fennel Ice Cream Sandwich premade and only in need of its assertive Caramel drizzle.

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Uncertain as to why such a large operation would not employ a proper Pastry Chef, the subsequent Sorbet of Beetroot with sour accoutrements delayed by nearly twenty minutes with another forty separating it from what was essentially a plate of deconstructed S’mores, it was mercifully just past to 22h00 that the check was requested with a nearly 10km bike ride back to the hotel yet to follow.

http://amassrestaurant.com

Posted in Amass, Copenhagen, Denmark, Tasting Menu Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Manfreds, Copenhagen DK

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Manfreds

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Housemade Organic Apple Juice

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Mirabelle Sourdough

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Poached Egg Yolk, Nettle, Cream, Sourdough

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Beef Tartare, Spinach, Egg Yolk, Bread Crumbs

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Chocolate Mousse, Olive Oil, Sea Salt, Cookies

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Cleverly describing itself as “(probably) the world’s only veggie-focused restaurant famous for its raw meat” Manfreds proved to be an irresistible stop after lunch at Relæ, the 12-course “Experience” menu that is far lighter than it sounds leaving plenty of room to sit down at the bar for three plates including the signature Beef Tartare.

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A winner the Sustainable Restaurant Award in 2016, the same year its upscale sibling across the street earned the same and operating nearly 100% Organic from noon until 22h00 daily, Manfreds was opened nearly simultaneously with Relæ in 2010 as a casual concept focused on Food and Natural Wines, the menu offering anywhere from ten to twelve plates with all but the Beef and Sourdough prone to seasonal change.

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A partnership between Kim Rossen and Christian F. Puglisi, the latter slowly growing in influence to a near-noma level ever since branching off on his own, it was with the usually-busy space currently between lunch and dinner rushes that a seat was taken at the unoccupied bar where a lone server was busy washing glasses and replenishing bottles, questions about daily specials quickly answered and housemade Apple Juice served instead of Wine, the roasted Fruit still cloudy and entirely unsweetened which made for a pleasant sourness to pair with all three dishes.

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Offering copies of Puglisi’s “Book of Ideas” as well as “Where to Eat Pizza” to browse as guests wait, information about Relæ’s “Farm of Ideas” from which much of the previous meal’s Produce was obtained also provided by a pamphlet, it was not long after ordering that a dish described as “Poached Egg Yolk, Nettle, Cream, Sourdough” was presented, the small pot aggressively priced at 75DKK for what was no more than three bites of herbal Pudding with a bit of texture added by Bread Crumbs while the “Medium” Beef Tartare with similar condiments was deep, musty and complex in nearly quadruple the portion for just 30 Krone more.

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Admittedly impressed by the Tartare, plenty of moisture present but not ‘wet’ like so many American versions thanks to the quality of the Beef, a thick grind and just enough Spinach to keep things from becoming too rich, it was without hesitation that a small pot of Chocolate Mousse was requested upon finishing one last slice of Mirabelle Sourdough, the short glass proving to be another worthy signature as the Dark Cocoa is well met by crumbled Milk Chocolate Cookies, a drizzle of Olive Oil and Sea Salt.

http://manfreds.dk

Posted in Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Manfreds, Mirabelle, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Relæ, Copenhagen DK

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Relæ

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White Currant-Anise Hyssop Juice

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Goat Cheese, Green Strawberry, Lemon Basil Tart

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Mirabelle Sourdough, Olive Oil

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Celtuce, Oregano, Whipped Cream , Almond

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Oyster, Turnip, Horseradish

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Trout, Spring Onions, Brown Butter

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Danish Heirloom Tomatoes, Olive Oil, Rose Salt

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Fava, Fennel, Gooseberry

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Carrots, Young Garlic, Egg Yolk, Hollandaise

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Havervadgard Lamb Tartare, Seaweed Emulsion, Sea Beans

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Dry Aged Havervadgard Lamb Saddle, Kohlrabi, Sea Lettuce, Spinach

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Buckwheat Pancake, Fresh Cheese, Pear Vinegar, Rhubarb, Black Olives

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Reduced Whey, Frozen Buttermilk, Chervil Powder

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Sage Parfait, Caramelized Mustard Seeds, Danish Wild Strawberries

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To sit and read Christian Puglisi’s “A Book of Ideas,” ostensibly a cookbook about Michelin-starred Relæ, is more than just a chance to gawk at recipes most amateur Chefs will never attempt, it is an opportunity to truly understand a man who takes everything from farming to the water used in his kitchen very seriously, though a look at the restaurant itself on Saturday afternoon showed the experience to actually be very joyful, a seat at the counter looking upon Chefs from nearby to Brazil all working in harmony as they prepared food that was conceptually simple but generally brilliant.

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Opened in 2010 fresh off of years at El Bulli and noma, lessons learned working with René Redzepi helping the then-28 year old Italian Chef crystallize an idea for a restaurant that would further eschew the confines of fine dining in favor of a “cut to the bone” philosophy focused on nothing more than a comfortable environment and what was served on the plate, diners visiting Relæ in 2017 will find a neighborhood that Puglisi previously described as ‘riddled with drugs’ transformed into one thriving with artisan goods, restaurants and a young families, his restaurant very much a catalyst to this change and still filling tables day and night five days per week.

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No doubt having grown past early expectations as the Chef has launched three additional restaurants nearby, Bæst arguably serving some of the best Pizza in the world thanks to a relentless pursuit of perfection that sees everything from Charcuterie to Cheese made in house with most of the Vegetables from his own organic garden, Relæ remains true to its word with diners seated at either long wooden tables or a Chef’s counter with silverware tucked into drawers and intended to last the whole meal without a need for change, all of the plates delivered straight from the hands of Chefs with the first course on this day’s 895DKK “Relæ Experience” Menu presenting Goat Cheese Mousse and sliced Green Strawberries atop a shell of Lemon, Basil and Buckwheat.

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Opting for Still Water and a single pour of Juice to accompany the meal, a clear glass of pressed White Currants and Anise Hyssop Oils washing the palate with acid between bites, it was prior to a plate of blanched Celtuce with Soured Cream, Oregano and raw Almonds that the first of several slices of Mirabelle Bakery Sourdough was received, the structure and flavor amongst the best in a city full of good loaves and much appreciated as a way to ‘reset’ the mouth after a course of warmed Oysters in shaved Horseradish encased in paper-thin squares of bitter Turnips.

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Embracing a ‘waste not, want not’ attitude, nearly all of the products served certified Organic and Stems, Peels and residual pieces all collected to be used for alternative purposes, course four saw the team serve a piece of Trout lightly warmed on an upper rack by residual heat from Japanese Charcoal used to cook a later course, the Spring Onions stacked beneath crispy skin adding a lot of flavor to a pool of Brown Butter with a follow-up of four different Tomatoes grown in Danish soil all defying the idea that such a thing cannot be done and part of a project that has been years in the making at Puglisi’s off-site farm.

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Strongly focusing on early Summer’s bounty throughout a comfortable 110 minutes, a bowl of whole and halved Fava Beans served barely cooked alongside Gooseberries in an aromatic Broth followed by Garlic roasted Heirloom Carrots intended to be dragged through Hollandaise topped in grated Egg Yolk, courses eight and nine were tied to one another by way of locally bred Havervadgard Lamb, the first a deep and complex Tartare with Seaweed Emulsion and Sea Beans with the final savory delivered by way of sixty-day dry-aged Saddle that was fork-tender next to thin strips of Kohlrabi around shredded Sea Lettuce on a bed and Broth of Spinach.

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Offering a Cheese made from the same unpasteurized Milk used at Bæst in transitioning from savory to sweet, the grassy flavors well paired to shredded Black Olives and Rhubarb inside a fold of Buckwheat, those leery of Desserts using Herbs will be happy to know that Relæ succeeds where others fail by staying the course, nothing over-manipulated with only flavor and texture the focus in both a creamy bowl of Milk Solids and sweetened Buttermilk dusted with Chervil and in a dainty Puff Pastry laid on edge and filled with Sage Cream, wild Strawberries and steeped and candied Mustard Seeds.

http://www.restaurant-relae.dk

Posted in Copenhagen, Denmark, pancake, Pancakes, Relæ, Tasting Menu Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Det Rene Brød, Copenhagen DK

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Det Rene Brød

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Sesame Seed-Fruit Spelt Bread

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Pumpkin Seed-Carrot Rye Bread

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Raspberry Muffin

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Cinnamon Roll

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Chocolate Cake

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Having visited the location at Godthåbsvej 45 in Frederiksberg on day two in Copenhagen it seemed only right to return to Det Rene Brød for one more Cinnamon Roll before leaving Denmark, the store in Nørrebro unfortunately not as cozy as the first with Pastries and service that also lacked, the distracted young woman at the counter accidentally doubling up on the same Muffin when two different ones had been suggested and nothing save for the Pumpkin Seed-Carrot Rye and Cinnamon Roll on par with what the previous visit suggested.

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www.detrenebroed.dk/

Posted in Breakfast, Copenhagen, Denmark, Det Rene Brød, Food, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Landbageriet Naturbageriet, Copenhagen DK

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Landbageriet Naturbageriet

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Cinnamon Roll (Kanelsnegl)

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Poppyseed Roll (Frosnapper)

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Strawberry Walnut Danish (Spadnauer)

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Gluten Free Almond Cake (Mandelkage)

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Vegan Banana Cake (Banankage)

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Gluten Free Carrot Cake (Gulerodskage)

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Brought up during a conversation about allergies and intolerances while in Copenhagen, their population’s gluten-sensitive and pseudo-allergy voices far less loud than in America, Naturbageriet on Frederiksberggade near Nørreport Station is one of the capital’s rare bakeries catering to Vegans and those looking for a gluten free treat, the smallish space with some dry and refrigerated goods proving to be reasonably priced and quite popular on a Saturday morning just past 08h00.

Once again focusing on Organic Grains from nearby farms and Milk or Eggs, when applicable, likewise allocated, those visiting Naturbageriet will at first be somewhat confused by signage delineating what is versus what is not allergy sensitive and although Danish is used exclusively on labels the staff is English-fluent and happy to make suggestions, the eventual order entailing six choices from which half were designed for the store’s target audience.

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Too small to offer seats, though at such an early hour several outdoor tables are unoccupied and unwatched nearby, it was with goods spread out that passers-by starred or commented on the sheer volume of food, most items larger than the average and first bites of the filled Danish showing well, the exterior flaky with a lot of butter within and the Strawberry Jam restrained from being too sweet by a generous amount of toasted Walnuts.

Intrigued by this version of the Poppyseed-studded Frosnapper, the Seeds folded into a soft and buttery braid with light sweetness that tasted much like Honey, it was largely in continuing to search for the city’s best Cinnamon Roll that the Gluten Free version was passed up in favor of a traditional one, the results very impressive and on par with that at St. Peder’s or Det Rene Brød.

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Intrigued to see so many cakes offered, at least three more in addition to those sampled available, those looking for something hearty and rustic should throw caution to the wind and taste the Vegan Banana Cake that sees unleavened Rye and mashed Banana soaked in Cider and topped in sliced Apples with plenty and Cinnamon and Anise notes throughout while those avoiding Wheat will find equal pleasure in a lighter than average Carrot Cake made with Pineapple Juice, ground Coconut, Nuts and Carrots, the Almond Cake another great choice that tastes a lot like Caramel Cake found throughout the Southern United States but made with far better ingredients.

http://land-bageriet.dk

Posted in Breakfast, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Landbageriet, Naturbageriet, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Kong Hans Kælder, Copenhagen DK

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Kong Hans Kælder

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Bites – Onion, Comte and Breadcrumb ‘Egg’ / Oyster Foam with Ramson and Asparagus / Gougere with Mornay / Toast with King Crab and Bechamel / Roe Buck Tartare Tart / Quail Egg with Caviar

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Brioche, Baguette, Bordier Butter

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Andersen Winery Cider

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Seared Langoustine, Turned Vegetables, Fresh Tarragon, Wonton Pasta, Classic Sauce Neige

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Turbot roasted on the Bone, Crayfish stuffed Squash Blossom, Coral Sauce Neige

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Mushroom Toast, Foie Gras, Chanterelles, Sauce Vin Jaune

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Roe Buck, Waldorf Salad, Celeriac, Sauce Gastrique

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French Cheeses, Prunes, Pickled Pine, Candied Nuts, Field Honey, Chocolate Fruit Bread

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Panna Cotta, Fresh Strawberries, Oat Crumble, Strawberry Sorbet (ugly Quenelle – server’s fault)

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Mini Chocolate Donut, Salted Caramel, Chocolate Nougat

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A remaining bastion of Classic French Cooking in Copenhagen Kong Hans Kælder has been greeting guests since 1976, and although reestablishing its Michelin Star in 2016 after a two year absence the Restaurant seems to be showing its age in the modern era, a Friday night dinner finding the cooking to be technically sound with a focus on luxury ingredients but fairly poor in terms of value or doing anything particularly remarkable or unique.

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Famously located in Copenhagen’s oldest building, the previous home of Lords, a Mint and Hans Christian Andersen since converted to an arched dining area not unlike AOC and only modestly adorned aside from candles which add to the gothic ambiance but make the room a bit too stuffy thanks to a lack of airflow, diners at Kong Hans Kælder are greeted by way of a podium in the foyer where reservations and coats are collected before being led to tables lined in heavy linen, the menu presented as a Chef’s Tasting plus several a la carte choices.

Opened by Lene and Sven Grønlykke and now under the guidance of Chef Mark Lungaard Nielsen, a man who by all appearances seemed stern and unapproachable as he stood at the pass throughout the night rarely shifting more than a few inches, service at Kong Hans follows a similar pattern in that it is very formal without a lot of smiling but plenty of “Sirs and Ma’ams,” a decline to peruse the massive wine list probably not the expected approach considering the fact that the cellar contains over 3200 separate labels, though a dry ‘almost no Alcohol’ Cider proved perfectly paired to the vast majority of plates served throughout the three hour meal.

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Still sporting wooden floors and echoing walls, the later occasionally putting others conversations far closer than wide-set tables should allow, it was with a flurry of six bites that the evening began shortly after opting for the Chef’s Tasting, a small plastic ‘egg’ containing Onion, Comte and Breadcrumbs a highlight as was a Crab Toast and Roe Buck Tartare Tart, the seasonal item once again showing up and proudly promoted as being shot only a few miles outside city limits.

Not at all a ‘snobby’ place, just one where formality fits the ambiance and waiters play their role throughout several tableside presentations, it was with nibbles finished that two styles of Bread were delivered alongside butter from Bordier, the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto clearly not dominating the conversation as sliced Langoustine arrived next beneath foamy Sauce Neige and sheets of Pasta, the tiny Tarragon leaves perfuming the palate before dissipating into a background that was a little too sweet on the finish.

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Traditionally serving the tasting menu for two, but happy to offer solo diners a seat, service continued with a “double portion” of Turbot roasted on the Bone and cleaned tableside, the meat tender and perfectly cooked, though it unfortunately lost a little bit of its ‘oomph’ when served next to a assertive Crayfish stuffed Squash Blossom blanked in a sauce similar to the first but slightly more briny thanks to the addition of Lobster Coral.

Clearly proud of their sauces, both prior and both to follow served tableside in elegant French fashion, plate three presented housemade Brioche topped in thinly sliced layers of seared Goose Liver with Golden Chanterelles and a smooth reduction of Pan Drippings plus White Wine, the flavors and textures both expectedly luxurious and left to linger for nearly fifty minutes until savories concluded with roasted Roe Buck Loin served ruby Red next to a ‘Waldorf Salad’ made to taste earthy by way of Celeriac, though admittedly presenting a nice balance to the tart Gastrique.

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Unable to resist a proper Cheese Cart, the supplemental cost 150DKK, Kong Hans Kælder once again takes a pass on Denmark in presenting nothing but French selections, several unpasteurized choices not available stateside interesting with a ripe Blue and mature Goat’s Milk versions found most memorable alongside several condiments, the night’s lone Dessert quick to follow with an amusing display unfolding as the sever could not dislodge a quenelle of Strawberry Sorbet from his spoon, the composition itself also fairly disappointing as similar can be found at any average restaurant throughout the world with the same to be said of three mignardises including an oddly placed miniature Chocolate Donut.

http://www.konghans.dk/

Posted in Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Crab, Denmark, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, Kong Hans Kælder, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Restaurant Barr, Copenhagen DK

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Restaurant Barr

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Sourdough, Country Rye, Salted Butter and Onion-Pork Lard

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New Potatoes, Bakskuld, Lovage and Goat’s Butter

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Bone Marrow, Unripe Berries, Stems and Parsley

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Dry-aged Free Range Pork Schnitzel Wiener Art, Peas, Horseradish, Anchovy and Caper Butter

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Sweet Cake, Cream, Sunflower Marzipan, Cherry Liquor, Cherries and Cocoa

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Southern Jutland Waffles, Gode Rad, Strawberry Ice, Cream and Kernel Oil

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Never all that intrigued by noma and disturbed by the herds of flocking foodies who claim that 108 is anything more than a money grab to fund other projects from René Redzepi it was admittedly with trepidation that a seat was taken at Barr on only its third day of service, the former noma space now bathed in sunlight tracing blonde wood with a menu from Thorsten Schmidt focusing on “eating and drinking traditions of the European Beer belt.”

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In no way intended to be a replacement for the World’s former “#1 Restaurant,” that space still under construction to the North, it was mere moments after the restaurant was announced via Social Media that an online Reservation was made for a snack between lunch at Stud!o and dinner at Kong Hans Kælder, the pre-booking largely unnecessary as the majority of Danes were largely unaware of Barr’s opening, even though a day one review had already been penned by a local critic with a group of six Americans one table over apparently having booked a flight from Portland specifically to dine there.

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Rustic and low ceilinged, pictures of noma showing little to have changed except for the lighting and several Taps added to a room adjacent the central kitchen, it was with friendly smiles that guests were greeted by a team of hirsuit men sporting lots of ink, striped shirts and aprons, the menu familiar to both locals and foreigners thanks to its focus on homey recipes such as Schnitzel, Potatoes, Smoked Salmon and Cheese, each table quickly presented with a Drink list and Water, the housemade Juices unfortunately not ready to go so early on but the collection of Aquavit and international Beers quite impressive.

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Not a “New Nordic” Restaurant, though concepts of The Manifesto are followed in terms of locally souring everything possible while focusing on traditional plates from Scandinavia and the North Sea it was as the menu was perused that a basket with two styles of Bread and Spreads were presented, the Sourdough every bit as good as that at 108 and the Rye dark, tangy and full of Seeds with both enjoyable on their own but all the better with Salted Cow’s Milk Butter or Onion and Leek studded Pork Fat.

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Far less blasé than 108, the waiters all wearing big smiles and engaging with guests in a way that made it almost seem rational that the Portlanders were already visiting for their third time, it was after some inquiry about the Bar Menu and two “Large Plates” that restraint was shown in ordering two appetizers and a main with an eye toward Dessert, the New Potatoes with Lovage and Goat’s Butter almost Asian in its use of dried Fish to create extra umami while the Bone Marrow was cooked just long enough to caramelize the top and render the center near-liquid next to a sour Chutney of Parsley and Green Strawberries.

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Definitely a place that feels well suited to long Winters, the confines cozy and plates hearty with a nod to the sort of Food many traditionally enjoy next to a Lager or Stout, it was on the word of a visiting Austrian Chef stating “the Schnitzel is better than most back home” that dry-aged heritage Pork was served next, a crisp and light Batter gently clinging to Flesh that was rich and fork tender with briny Butter added at one edge and a Salad of Peas and Horseradish that thankfully allows one to choose how much, if any, of each they want.

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Moving onward to Dessert, the pastries at The Corner giving one hope for all three choices, it was after a bit of indecisiveness that the Ice Cream was set aside in favor of Cake and Waffle, the former served as a floppy round dusted in Cocoa atop a moist Cake soaked in booze and topped with Cream and Cherries while the ‘Waffle’ was a crisp disc perched atop Strawberry Ice Cream, sliced Berries and Flowers with a smooth emulsification of Yeast, Oil, Sugar and Cream to be added at its side.

http://restaurantbarr.com

Posted in Barr, Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, Restaurant Barr, Vacation, Waffle, Waffles Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Stud!o at The Standard, Copenhagen DK

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Stud!o at The Standard

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Rhubarb Dill Juice

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Potato Crisp, Vinegar, Salt, Roe and Cress

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Quail Egg, Black Salt and Summer Truffles

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Tartare of Veal , Hay Oil, Elderberry, Capers, Chickweed and Rye

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Aebleskiver, Salted Danish Cheese, Gruyere and Truffles

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Sourdough, Dark Malt Crisp, Butter and Cultured Cream

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Raw shrimps and grilled cucumber, Green rhubarb and dill

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Baked witch flounder and weed, Butterboiled leek cane and ramson

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Danish squid and mussel, Beach plants and parsley

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Grilled dove and grilled cherries, Aromatics and black garlic

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Sheep yoghurt and sichuan pepper, Raspberries and roses

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Blackberries and grilled beetroot, Sour cream and dill

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One of three dining concepts at “The Standard,” an Art Deco building constructed in the 1930s that has since been re-positioned as a modern destination along the waterfront, Stud!o has been said by many to offer one of Copenhagen’s most impressive tasting menus in the ‘New Nordic’ era, the recent announcement that Chef Torsten Vildgaard would be leaving to join Renè Redzepi at noma 2.0 speaking volumes of the man’s talents while also stoking a personal interest in the project based on a lunch enjoyed on July 7th.

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Originally opened in late 2013 as a partnership between Manifesto co-creator Claus Meyer and Chef Vildgaard, a Michelin Star it still holds quick to follow even as the rest of the building including Summer Concerts and a Jazz Club often draw attention away from the stylish space and open kitchen tucked away on the second floor, diners visiting Stud!o are promised a menu of ‘curious and playful’ cuisine at both lunch and dinner, the waitstaff polite but formal while the majority of plates are presented by Torsten and his team of Chefs.

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Visited on a fairly warm afternoon, the cloudless Copenhagen sky a rarity that saw many locals sunbathing along the inner harbor with only a light breeze through open windows helping to cool the low-ceilinged room, it was without hesitation that still water and a glass of Rhubarb-Dill Juice was selected to accompany the 100DKK 9-course menu, a Sandwich of crispy Potato strings quick to arrive and whet palates around a briny center of emulsified Vinegar, Fish Roe and Cress.

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Seated at a wooden hightop in plain view of the kitchen, a total of just five guests matched by an equal number of men working in relative silence, bite number two came by way of a Stud!o signature placing a lightly cooked Quail Egg beneath Summer Truffles alongside Black Salt and several whole Eggs in a carton, the single bite bursting in each diner’s mouth and quickly flooding the palate while a follow-up of Veal Tartare was served in a disturbingly small calf’s bone topped in Hay Oil with Elderberries and Capers intended to be spread on a Rye Crisp.

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Moving at a good pace compared to many similarly rated spaces, the small crowd giving Chefs an opportunity to vary pacing by table, plate four was once again described as a ‘signature’ with Vildgaard’s take on an Æbleskiver successfully putting Cheese and Truffles where Jam usually fits, the Sourdough made from Meyer’s starter expectedly good on its own but better with Butter or Soured Cream while Malt Crackers in an envelope seemed somewhat superfluous.

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Still rooted in foraging and the best local produce, but clearly rooted in classic French technique as evidenced by peerless Sauces that compliment but never overwhelm, the first proper plate of the day came by way of raw Shrimp tucked inside leaves alongside salted and grilled Cucumbers with nuggets of frozen Dill atop, the juice ordered early on clearly intended to pair and doing so in a manner that accentuates sour notes that are balanced by the sweet Crustacean.

Serving fairly large portions of proteins to compensate for the abbreviated menu, evening diners offered one extra course plus two additional snacks for an additional 300DKK, a plate of Witch Flounder roasted on its perfectly cleaned bones came next bathed in foamy Garlic Butter with tiny black Capers adding both brine and texture, the follow-up of barely-boiled Squid cut into Noodles offering light resistance to the tooth in a creamy Mussel Sauce with Beach Herbs and the assertive flavor of Miso.

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To this point very impressed, not one stem, seed or flower out of place or unnecessary to the compositions, Stud!o’s final savory came by way of rosy Pigeon Breasts kissed by the grill alongside warm Cherries cooked in foraged spices and blanked in Sorrel atop a Sauce of Black Garlic and Pan Jus, a duo of Desserts managing the delicate task of adding Herbs to something sweet with purpose rather than on principle as numbing Szechuan Peppercorn Ice Cream found its foil in Raspberries and Yogurt while a frozen disc of Beet Root perched elegantly atop Blackberries perfumed in Licorice and kept from being too sweet by Crème Fraiche.

http://thestandardcph.dk/en/studio#omstudio

Posted in Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Stud!o, Stud!o at The Standard, Studio, Studio at The Standard, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Truffles, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Granny’s House, Copenhagen DK

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Granny’s House

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Museli Biscuit

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Almond Marzipan Croissant

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Cinnamon Almond Roll

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Chocolate Hazelnut Cookie

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Fragilite

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Rhubarb Tart

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Checking in one last time at Torvehallerne, the glass market previously visited for Laura Bakery, Coffee Collective, Grod and Sweet Valentine, it was mostly as a way to pass some time that Granny’s House got figured into Friday, the cutesy space decorated in colorful bubbles and chair cushions fitting its name with items that appear more rustic than most of the competition but still speak of skill and quality ingredients.

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Located at the opposite corner of the market as Laura and operating from 10h00 daily at the same stall since 2014, three additional locations including one that offers overnight accommodations to travelers found throughout Denmark, Granny’s House promises guests an experience based on honest scratch-baking and although at first appearing a bit ramshackle in terms of layout those willing to take some time to look will quickly find themselves a bit overwhelmed by no less than three dozen types of Viennoiserie, Cakes and Pastries.

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Staffed by just one young woman, predictably tall and blonde but fluent in English despite the fact that all signage both on-site and online is in Danish, it was after a few minutes perusal and with several questions asked that a total of six items were selected, boxed, bagged and paid for, first bites of the Museli Biscuit unfortunately finding it entirely unsweetened save for dried Fruit and too dense to be enjoyed without something to drink, the Almond ‘Croissant’ more like a Turnover in that the ingredients were folded into it, though really just a matter of semantics as the layers were light and flaky around a soft center lacquered in Marzipan.

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Unfortunately arriving a bit too late for items to be warm, though the Market setting and ovens located elsewhere made this possibility slim to begin with, it was with most of a dry Cinnamon Roll set aside that better things were tasted, the Chocolate Hazelnut Cookie softer and better stocked with Nuts than that at Sweet Valentine while the crispy Meringue with Hazelnuts and Coffee Buttercream was every bit as memorable, the best of Granny’s offerings still to come by way of an all-Butter Tart filled with Rhubarb and topped in Streusel.

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http://grannyshouse.dk/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Copenhagen, Croissant, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Granny's House Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Democratic Coffee Bar, Copenhagen DK

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Democratic Coffee Bar

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Fruit and Seed Roll with Butter and Cheese

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Croissant

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Pain au Chocolate

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Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Almond Croissant

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Reinvigorating Copenhagen’s Hovedbibliotek in 2011, and since earning a fair share of press thanks to their use of Sweden’s Koppi Roasters and a top-tier Pastry program, Democratic Coffee Bar proved to be a worthy first stop for Friday Breakfast, the Public Library not yet open at the time of an 08h05 arrival but a few guests already present and accounted for with beverages in hand with one group already in the midst of a Skype-meeting.

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Literally a contiguous space with the Library, only a doorless port separating the multi-storied atrium from a cafe bathed in light with parallel blonde wood bars for service and seating, it was with purpose that a steady line of Danes entered and exited the Bar, the rumors of Pastries selling out long before the place closes up at 19h00 proving highly likely as many gathered up boxes for work, though not before a total of five were bagged or plated and ready to indulge in.

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Selling both Whole Beans and brewing paraphernalia on black shelving at the far end of the Bar, the equipment behind the counter all top grade, it was as light music played overhead that WiFi was accessed before delving into a soft Roll dotted with dried Fruit and Seeds, the skin featuring a good chew not unlike a Bagel while the inside was naturally Sweet, two slices of Semi-Soft Cheese a far more compelling topping than packaged Organic Butter, though first bites of a Croissant suggested that if this was the same product used for cooking it certainly was not bad, the exterior layers shattering and crisp with an interior that was warm and soft.

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Attempting to decide between Chocolate and Almond next, the latter by far Democratic’s most celebrated selection, it was largely a result of temperature that led to a Pain au Chocolate being tasted next, the core opening up much wider than that before it though the duo of Cocoa cores could have stood to be a little thicker, the Chocolate Chip Cookie softly pulled in half making far better use of the ingredient amidst a base lightly perfumed in Cinnamon but plenty rich with Butter and Brown Sugar.

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At this point fairly impressed, though a little surprised that everything save for the Almond Croissant had been warm to touch on arrival, it was with expectations built up by both independent and in-house propaganda that “The best almond croissant I have ever eaten” was tasted, the baked, filled and re-baked Pastry well constructed and not overly sweet but a far cry from those in France, San Francisco or even Las Vegas, not to mention Bageriet Brød in the same city at Enghave Plads 7.

https://www.facebook.com/Democratic-Coffee-147810001973306/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Copenhagen, Croissant, Democratic Coffee, Democratic Coffee Bar, Denmark, Food, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, Frederiksberg DK

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Mielcke & Hurtigkarl

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Nathalie Falmet Brut Nature Champagne

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Cabbage, Cod Roe, Rocket Flowers

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Langoustine, Papaya, Kalamansi

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Pear, Bergamot, Licorice Root, Spanish Chervil

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Wild Shot Deer, Boar (eaten)

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Oysters, Watercress, Peas, Daikon, Beach Flowers, Cucumber Granita

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Scallop, White Miso, Miso ‘snow’

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Sourdough, Herb Butter

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Lemon Sole, Chicken Skin, Kombu, Salted Cucumber, Butter, Thyme, Meade

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N’duja Agnolotti, Mascarpone, Parmesan. Sage, Fermented Red Pepper and Sorrel Sauce

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White Asparagus, Lemon, Smoked Butter, Pistachio, Puffed Potato, Preserved Pine, Swedish Caviar

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Sweetbreads, Eggplant Puree, Ponzu, Garden Herbs

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Sea Buckthorn, Flowers, Ginger

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Ribeye, Ramson, Pepper, Celeriac, Ashes, Rum

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Melted Granbark, Truffles, Truffle Croissant, Hazelnut with Smoked Straciatella and Bleu, Currant Jam

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Passion Fruit, Coconut, Kaffir Lime, Tapioca, Habanero Oil

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Strawberries, Plums, Almonds, Goat Milk, Caramel, Woodruff Oil

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Birch Ice Cream, Celeriac, Tonka Bean, Long Pepper, Cocoa

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Coffee Frozen Meringue

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Matcha Puff Pastry, Garden Herbs, Lemon Verbena

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Located on the far east end of Frederiksberg Have, a truly lovely setting passed by many times on bike to and from Central Copenhagen, it was for dinner on Thursday night that a trusted friend as well as a hotel concierge prompted dinner at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, the restaurant ranked #30 in White Guide Nordic unfortunately suffering from a service shortage and a kitchen that seemed all too willing to venture away from the The New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto, though rarely to anyone’s benefit.

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Toqued by Chef Jakob Mielcke and managed by Jan Hurtigkarl, the former sporting a Pierre Gagnaire pedigree by way of both Rue Balzac and Sketch in London with the later very familiar with Copenhagen’s dining revolution after over thirty years in the industry, it was just prior to 19h30 that the restaurant garden was approached on foot, a male Peacock strutting about past iced Champagne as a reservation was confirmed, a complimentary glass of Champagne gifted from one of the Restaurant’s fans kicking things off along with a bouquet of Cabbage and Arugula Blossoms intended to be dragged through creamy Cod Roe.

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Continuing outdoor service across three more bites before transitioning indoors, a similar pattern followed by each table to follow, course two presented a rosy Langoustine glazed in Papaya and Kalamansi prior to Pear slices topped in an unpleasant powder of Bergamot and Licorice, Chef Mielcke’s love of the hunt next described as diners were offered bites of Roe Deer Sausage and lightly grilled Boar’s Meat.

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Packed to capacity on this particular evening, two large parties of at least a dozen each plus a well-heeled American couple celebrating their wedding engagement each commanding a disproportionate amount of attention while the larger tables were clearly a stretch for the kitchen as wait times exceeding twenty-five minutes more than once separated one course from the next, dinner next rolled into two amuses including a refreshing plate of poached Oysters served beneath Summer Peas and Radish plus cooling Cucumber Granita, a follow-up of Scallop, White Miso and dissolved ‘snow’ clearly attempting to take a note from Gagnaire’s book but unfortunately more reminiscent of mucous in terms of both texture and the overwhelming amount of salt.

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Decorated in big chandeliers with dancing lights on the ceiling and walls adorned with everything from plastic bugs to contemporary art it was with a single slice of Sourdough and aggressively herbed Butter that the proper 7-course meal began, the emulsified sauce of a Lemon Sole filet clearly taking cues from the room’s modern design but unfortunately buying it’s mild flesh with salt once again front and center by way of Chicken Skin, Kelp and preserved Cucumbers.

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An inauspicious start to be certain, each plate to follow continuing a trend where one less ingredient would have been preferable to more, N’duja Agnolotti proved to be the meal’s indisputable highlight as three tiny pockets of Pasta were stuffed with housemade spicy Sausage that found its foil in whipped Mascarpone and shaved Parmesan, the unnecessary Sorrel thankfully just a faint note on the finish and nowhere near as distracting as the Pine Needles that thoroughly imbalanced White Asparagus made green by way of ground Pistachios.

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Once again showing glimmers of talent by way of a sizable Sweetbread seared crisp on the exterior but still creamy at the center in a bowl of Eggplant Puree, Ponzu and Herbs it was with palates cleansed by a crispy Tuille containing Sea Buckthorn and Ginger that the meal reached its apex in a dish described as “Pork” despite clearly being Beef, the aggressive salinity of prior plates thankfully not present but instead replaced by Garlic and Celeriac, the ‘earthy’ notes taken up a notch by way of Rum and Char that came across excessively bitter and Bread long ago finished thus leaving diners drinking only water with an unpleasant wait of nearly thirty minutes before a complicated Cheese course was presented with lightly melted Granbark beneath Summer Truffles alongside a savory Croissant, Currant Jam and crushed Hazelnut and Straciatella Mousse.

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At this point approaching 22h30, a friend’s story of finishing his whole meal at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl in under two hours apparently far from the norm, it was with only one bite of a dish including both Passion Fruit and Habanero Oil that the rest was sent back to the kitchen, a foamy dish of Strawberries, Caramel and Plums with Almonds floated in Woodruff Oil beautiful in its balance while the third Dessert failed to prove Celeriac can be hidden, the lemony Puff Pastry and Frozen Meringue served 220 minutes after originally sitting down at least closing things out on a pleasant note.

http://www.mhcph.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Copenhagen, Croissant, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Frederiksberg, Ice Cream, Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, Mielcke and Hurtigkarl, Pork, Sweetbreads, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Truffles, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Neighbourhood Organic Pizza & Cocktails, Copenhagen DK

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Neighbourhood Organic Pizza & Cocktails

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Root Vegetable Crisps with Tarragon Cream

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Cod Noisette Pizza with Beurre Noisette, Salted Potatoes, Salted Cod, Mascarpone, Fresh Dill, Rocket and Peppers

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Affogato – Vanilla Ice Cream, Salted Caramel, Candied Seeds, Espresso

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To anyone who has ever visited Copenhagen the local fascination with the word “Organic” should be all too familiar, servers at top-tables going out of their way to stress everything from Proteins to Produce as “Certified” when applicable and restaurants such as Neighbourhood Organic Pizza & Cocktails proudly displaying their adherence to guidelines with lengthy descriptions such as “Neghbourhood is a gold certified organic restaurant. As according to the regulatory requirements for gold certified organic restaurants at least 90% of the ingredients are organic. Accounts of the ingredients used are submitted to the Danish food safety authorities (“Fødevarestyrelsen”) on a quarterly basis and are subject to regular control.”

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Popular for its convivial atmosphere across two locations, both offering a popular Brunch on weekends and late hours seven-days a week, it was as part of a late afternoon snack that a stop was made at the space found amongst Gentleman’s Clubs and Youth Hostels on Thursday, only a few additional patrons accounted for on the inside while al fresco seating was filled to capacity with locals and tourists alike.

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Described as a “hangout” by ownership, the intention to keep things light embraced by way of off-hand service that spends a lot of time flirting with females and upselling Wine and Cocktails as opposed to taking orders and clearing tables, it was shortly upon entry that seating was offered at a communal hightop with barstools, the situation acceptable though not especially comfortable when a plethora of proper tables were open as classic American rock from the late 1970s and early 80s played at a modest level overhead.

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Seasonally focused in both food and drink, Pizzas making up the vast majority of the menu with just a few bar Snacks available otherwise, it was after a rather lengthy wait that the same individual who’d been seating guests stopped by with a bottle of Water to take orders, a tough decision setting aside Neighbourhood’s famous Pig and Apple Pie in favor of something that seemed too interesting to pass up, a plank of Root Vegetable Crisps quick to arrive with Tarragon Cream in a portion that was unfortunately not enough to go around.

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Creating their own style of Pizza based on a Sourdough starter, the Dough rolled out in thin sheets at low volume after a lengthy ferment, it was perhaps fifteen minutes after the order was placed that an uncut Pie topped in Salt Cod, Hazelnut Butter, Potatoes, Dill and Mascarpone was presented, the flavor briny and fragrant with a great crackle to the Crust beneath as diners are left to decide whether or not to add fresh Arugula and Peppers served in a small pile.

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Eating far lighter than the average Pie, a single diner of any constitution likely able to finish a whole Pizza on her or his own, those looking for a sweet finish are limited to three 65DKK choices, the Citron Fromage and ‘Oranged’ Chocolate Mousse not particularly appealing by way of the description but the Organic Affogato going above Gelato and Coffee by way of two big scoops of Housemade Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream plus a big gob of Salted Caramel amidst Granola and candied Seeds.

http://www.neighbourhood.dk

Posted in Coffee, Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Neighbourhood, Neighbourhood Organic Pizza, Neighbourhood Organic Pizza & Cocktails, Pizza, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Hija de Sanchez, Copenhagen DK

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Hija de Sanchez

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Lengua Taco

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Al Pastor Taco

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Black Bean, Barbacoa and Cheese Flautas

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Chocolate and Salted Licorice Paleta with Dried Blueberry

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Originally opened in Torvehallerne and since expanded to Kødbyen, Copenhagen’s Meat Packing District, Hija de Sanchez was born out of owner Rosio Sanchez’s desire to bring food from her youth to a new life in Copenhagen, a childhood in South Chicago as a first generation Mexican American giving her an appreciation for the sort of spices rarely seen in Nordic Countries, but time cooking at noma and other Michelin Guide Restaurants giving her the confidence to strike out on her own and do something completely different.

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Originally launched in 2015 at the Market, her following growing quickly thanks to handmade Tortillas and Salsas plus Tacos made in the traditional Mexican fashion with occasional local influences such as Fish Skin or Fjord Shrimp creeping in, it was as part of a midday snack that a stop was made at the second location where several locals were enjoying the late-day rays of Danish Summer, the online menu unfortunately a bit deceiving in that it lists nearly a dozen Proteins even though only two are offered each day, the Paletas a similar situation with Thursday only featuring one, the prices also quite high with a total bill of 185DKK (nearly $30USD) for a total of four items.

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Targeted to be both approachable and authentic, a visit to Kiin-Kiin showing that ‘spicy’ is definitely a relative term in Denmark, it was with a seat taken near a small Piñata that a few minutes were passed before the order was ready, first bites of the Beef Tongue with Guacachile, raw Onion and Cilantro showing the meat to be tender but not particularly flavorful on a great shell, the Al Pastor shaved from a small spit by far and away the spiciest thing tasted in Scandinavia and on par with anything tasted in Mexico with a juicy chunk of charred Pineapple helping to quell the fire.

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Chucking at a sign teaching locals how to eat a taco as the finishing touches were applied to three Flautas, the thick Corn taking well to a flash frying and coming out crisp without a drop of residual oil, Sanchez and team again showed a good hand with Beef by way of spicy Barbacoa and Black Beans stuffed into three tubes topped with diced Cabbage and Fresh Cheese, the Popsicle taken to go described as Salted Licorice but fairly mild in terms of Ansie flavors with the overall balance more like White Chocolate with a texture and sweetness added by dehydrated Fruit on top.

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http://www.hijadesanchez.dk

Posted in Copenhagen, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Hija de Sanchez, Ice Cream, Pork, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Daniel Berlin Krog, Skåne-Tranås SE

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Daniel Berlin Krog

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Quail Egg, Lardo, Speck, Garden Herbs

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Wheat, Broccoli Tarragon Cream

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Yeast Pancake, Pork Belly, Apple Chip, Watercress, Plum Cream

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Bird Liver Mousse, Chestnut Flour, Anise, Cinnamon

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Zucchini with Salted Pumpkin Seeds, Radish, Turnip, Unripe Strawberries, Watercress-Sorrel Sorbet, Sour Cream with Elderflower

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Honey Wheat Bread, Cow and Goat Butters from a nearby Farm

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Mackerel, Peas, Parsley Emulsion, Toasted Barley, Gooseberries

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Cucumbers, Raw Shrimp, Pressed Rhubarb, Roasted Buckwheat, Seaweed-Dill Oil

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Cod, Birch, Butter, Broad Beans

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Chanterelles, Egg Yolk, Cauliflower, Rooster Skin

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Halibut Loin and Back, Pointy Cabbage, Bone Marrow

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Lamb Neck, Loin, Brisket, Summer Onion, Meadowsweet

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10 day and 3 month Local Goat’s Milk Cheese, Rhubarb, Apples, Blueberries, Apple Bread, Fennel Cake, Cumin Crisp

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Colostrum, Ewe’s Milk, Lemon Verbena, Honey-Spelt Crisp, Frozen Buttermilk

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Berry Sorbet

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Located in Skåne-Tranås Sweden, about 2.5 hours from Copenhagen by way of Train and Bus for those who plan the route in advance, Daniel Berlin Krog is one of those out-of-the way places known about by those who travel to dine that has recently gained attention in the popular media, the young Chef operating his restaurant and inn without compromise and surrounded by family.

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Taking locavorism to a new level ever since departing Malmo to open something more intimate in 2009, the eponymous restaurant inside a pale yellow house sourcing nearly 3/4 of its ingredients from the Chef’s own yard or garden with the rest coming from within 3 miles, it was on foot from the Bus Stop that guests approached the space just a few hundred meters away, Berlin himself standing out in the middle of the street with a broad smile saying “Welcome, I presume you’re looking for me?” before leading each one to an outdoor patio which was finally warm enough to seat diners for the very first time in 2017.

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At this point a fairly difficult reservation at either lunch or dinner, the online system on his site clearly stating when certain dates will become available and usually booked to capacity for ~3 month blocks within a few hours several months in advance, diners joining Berlin at lunch are promised a seven-course Chef’s tasting that is doubled by way of canapés, amuses and mignardises, dietary preferences welcomed and usually able to be accounted for as the restaurant reaches out to inquire by e-mail nearly 48 hours in advance.

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In many ways not unlike other great Nordic restaurants in terms of its focus on foraging and preservation, but perhaps even more focused than noma or kadeau in terms of its chef’s fanaticism for terroir, lunch at the small table shaded by a tent began with a gently poached Quail Egg wrapped in two types of housemade Charcuterie and topped with Herbs from the garden, a creamy single bite flooding the mouth with flavor with bite number two similar yet different, a crispy ring of Wheat damming in a flood of Tarragon Cream topped with tiny snips of the garden’s very first Broccoli.

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Having now received enough recognition to support other members of the community, Hogs “raised just up the road” and Butter “from a farm just a mile that way ::pointing::” featured in courses to follow, dish three saw confit Pork Belly served as a Jam atop a leavened Pancake also topped in preserved Plums, compressed apple and Cress, the liver of a Pigeon shot on-property just a few days prior following in the form of a creamy twig coated in bold spices and Chestnut Flour.

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Next showing off the breadth of his garden by way of crudités served on a large block of ice, the tangle of shaved Zucchini and salted Pumpkin Seeds a very memorable bite despite the apparent simplicity of just two ingredients, Bread at Daniel Berlin is also special in that the stone-ground Wheat is enhanced by the skins of Vegetables roasted and folded into the batter while the Butter comes in two forms, both good but the Goat version particularly funky and impressive enough that one may want a second loaf as an excuse to finish every last bit of it.

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Eschewing any desire to source luxury ingredients like Caviar, Foie Gras or exotic fishes, Berlin instead finding his muse in local streams and fields where he and his team hunt, fish and pick, course one of the proper menu featured thin slices of Mackerel served in a spiral atop fresh Peas and a fragrant Green Broth, the Cucumbers to follow taking on a similar form with Raw Shrimp in an acidic bath of Rhubarb floating Dill Oil.

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Transitioning from cold to warm with course three, everything eating very light and clean with a focus on the subtle interplay between flesh and Herbs, Dayboat Cod was presented as an inch thick disc filling the bottom of a bowl with a level pour of foamy Birch Butter and crunchy Broad Beans, the Flower Petals adding a bitterness that bridged well to a dish of Cauliflower Soup thickened with Egg Yolk and Mushrooms with cracklins’ made of Rooster Skin.

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Truly a lovely setting, the service professional but friendly and the gentle breeze enough to almost lull one to sleep between courses, a filet of Halibut was next presented to diners between grilled Cabbage and meaty pieces off the Fish’s back cooked in Bone Marrow, a three-piece discovery of locally raised Lamb following alongside a gently cooked Onion rounding out savories en route to a truly exemplary Cheese Course offering the same Goat’s Milk aged for 10 day and 3 months alongside three types of Bread and a trio of Jams and Jellies.

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Declining Coffee or Tea, the likelihood of either being ‘local’ fairly low anyhow, it was with two Desserts that the two and a half hour experience came to a finish, the bowl of Cow’s Colostrum, fresh Sheep’s Milk and Frozen Buttermilk a beautiful composition with just a touch of Citrus while the Berry Sorbet translated in any language as the pure essence of summer.

http://www.danielberlin.se

Posted in Bread Basket, Copenhagen, Daniel Berlin, Daniel Berlin Krog, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, pancake, Pancakes, Pork, Skåne-Tranås, Sweden, Tasting Menu, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Bageriet Brød, Copenhagen DK

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Bageriet Brød

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Fruit and Oat Bread

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Orange Sugar Brioche

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Almond Croissant

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Jam Danish

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Almond Cinnamon Roll

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Part two of a pastry route to Copenhagen Central Station, a stop at Valby’s Vores Brød showing it to be below average for Danish Bakeries, it was with good fortune that a local recommended Bageriet Brød at Enghave Plads 7 as one of the city’s best, the independently owned space currently hidden behind construction but worth seeking out for friendly customer service and a collection of Baked Goods that are a little different from the usual.

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Rumored to be in possession of several recipes from Tartine’s Chad Robertson and proudly featuring a Sourdough Starter from Meyer’s Bageri, the same starter available to any guest who might choose to stop in with a container, those happening upon Bageriet Brød will immediately find themselves challenged on entry to decide between what must be over two dozen styles of Pastries and Loaves, the prices lower than most but certainly not to be mistaken for a lack of quality.

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Short on floorspace, much like the rest of Copenhagen’s mom n’ pop Bakeries, but offering several outdoor tables overlooking a park currently under renovation “that is taking forever” according to an elderly clerk, it was with 110DKK exchanged that five items were unloaded from two bags in the morning sun of early July, first bites of Cereal Bread made of ground Oats enlivening the taste buds by way of unexpected dried Fruit flavors in a malty matrix, the following Sugar Brioche with a touch of Citrus caramelized and sticky on the surface with gentle notes of Butter on the flaky layers within.

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Intrigued by several of the full sized loaves, but aware of the fact that there was much eating still to be one throughout the day, it was next that bites were taken of the Raspberry Jam Danish that was unfortunately a bit dry compared to its Custard counterparts despite being well constructed and not too sweet, better bites found in the stretchy Cinnamon Braid with sliced Almonds both inside and atop as well as a twice-baked Croissant that rivals those in France without a bit of Frangipane to be found, the top instead lightly dusted in Confectioners’ Sugar and sliced nuts while the cavity is filled with ground Almonds and a lot of Butter instead of the typical cloying paste.

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https://www.facebook.com/Bageriet-BR%C3%98D-330089827074995/

Posted in Bageriet Brød, Breakfast, Copenhagen, Croissant, Denmark, Dessert, Food, Vacation Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Vores Brød, Copenhagen DK

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Vores Brød

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Oatmeal Bread

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Museli Bar

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Spandauer

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Tebirke

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Cinnamon Roll

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Independently owned in Valby, the store tucked away on the inner sidewalk of a park, Vores Brød kicked off an early Thursday en route to Sweden by way of Copenhagen Central Station, the doors unlocked at 07h00 with a great waft of yeast quickly greeting guests who’d been waiting and the young woman behind the counter ready to answer questions though the majority of the morning’s lot was still on racks with prices and descriptions nowhere to be seen.

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Small in footprint and even more condensed in customer space, the ovens and countertops taking up the bulk of the store with no seating indoors or out, it was instead with two warm bags in hand that a collection of five treats was taken to a small bench in the park to be enjoyed, first bites of an Organic Oatmeal Roll showing a good crust and chewy interior full of toasty notes while the Tebirke to follow unfortunately saw almost the entire shellacking of Poppy Seeds fall to the ground during the first bite, the lost balance to a thick layer of Butter and Sugar filling leaving the pastry sort of one note and not unlike a Kouign Amann without the caramelization.

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Saving the rest for a snack while waiting for the train to Malmo, the goods cooling slightly but still warm to touch, Vores Brød showed well in terms of both the Cinnamon Roll and Custard Danish, the former perhaps a bit overworked and thus a bit stiff but still well flavored while the later banked on a butter instead of sweetness around gooey Egg Custard, the final bites invested in a chewy bar of Museli that was half-dipped in Chocolate with the other side sort of dull, devoid of sweetness save for a few Raisins and mostly tasting of Pumpkin or Sunflower Seeds.

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http://voresbroed.dk/

Posted in Breakfast, Copenhagen, Denmark, Food, Vacation, Vores Brød Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Alchemist, Copenhagen DK

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Alchemist

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Champagne Doyard Cuvee Vendemiaire

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Frozen – Lemon Granita, Wood Ants, Elderflower

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Cherry – Liquid and Candy

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Tomato Chips and Chipotle – Edible Bag and Chili-Mayo

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Ashtray – Smashed Potatoes, Glazed Onion, Roasted Bacon

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Pea Pie – Mustard Seed, Lavender, Mint

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Lemon Cocktail – Geranium Gin, Hay Oil

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Razor Clam and Lemon – Italian Caviar, Rapeseed Oil

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Oyster and Comte – 36 month, Lardo

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Scallops and Miso – Foie Gras, Ginger, Truffles

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King Crab and Elderflower – 5-year Katsubushi, Dashi

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Lobster Salad and Brioche – Freeze-dried Coral ‘shell,’ Lemon Gel

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Lime and Chili – Tequila, Oak

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Nori Seaweed and Black Cod – Sour Cream, Soy and Caviar

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Goldfish and Fish Feed – Dried and Salted Fish with Cornichons and Capers, Langoustine Flakes

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Unagi Burger – Fresh Wasabi, Dehydrated Oysters

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Turbot and BBQ – Edible Bones

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Fish Fume and Parsley – Blue Mussels, Butter

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Foie Gras and Corn – Spanish Organic Goose Liver, Mushrooms, Pearl Barley

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Lamb Brain and Worms – Onion Paper and Ants

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Lamb Heart and Blood – Mustard, Cognac, Cherries and an Organ Donors Card

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Cow’s Udder – “Caesar Salad” with Anchovy, Crispy Chicken Skin and Capers

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Roasted Nuts – Rooster Testicles, Lime, Peanuts

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Laksa Soup – Mushrooms, Curry, Peanuts

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Mini Bao – Pickles, Cashews, Pork Neck

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Chicken Feet and Danoise – Mint, Cucumber

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Hyogo Kobe and Ponzu – A5 Grade 10

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Pigtail and Teriyaki – Yakatori Grill

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Tom Yum and Wood Lice

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Joselito 2006 Pork Sandwich and Beverly Hills 90210 – Brioche, Truffle Butter, Bufala Mozzarella

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