Shiraz Restaurant
Peach Iced Tea
Barbari Bread, Pita, Butter, Radish, Onions
Torshi – Pickled Carrots, Cauliflower, Eggplant, Herbs, Red Wine Vinegar
Kash Bademjan – Persian Eggplant and Walnut Dip
Nihari – Beef Stew with Bone Marrow, Julienned Ginger, Cilantro, Lemon, Onion, Turmeric, Red Pepper
Butter Naan
Zereshk Polo – White Rice, Saffron Rice, Zereshk
Chicken Kabob, Chelo Kabob Koobideh, Chelo Kabob Barg, Grilled Tomato, Radish, Lemon
Lamb Seekh Kebab, Tandoori Chicken, Onions
Basmati Rice
Fesenjan – Chicken, Sauce of Pomegranate Molasses and Ground Walnuts
Ghormeh Sabzi – Sautéed Herbs, Leeks, Parsley, Green Onions, Bitter Greens, Fenugreek
Tahdig – Persian Crispy Rice
Kheer – Indian Rice Pudding, Carrdamom, Rose Water, Dry Fruits, Pistachio
Gulab Jamun – Milk Dumpling, Cardamom Syrup / Turkish Coffee Tiramisu
Hot Tea
When Origin India closed in late 2017 one knew it was only a matter of time before British Restaurateur Raja Abdul Majid would return to the Las Vegas dining scene, his Indian heritage and self-proclamation of Persian as his favorite style of Cuisine making the acquisition of Habib’s at 2575 S Decatur Boulevard a perfectly logical fit in its rebirth as Shiraz Restaurant.
Tapping the talents of Chef Jainine Jaffer for what has become quite an undertaking, a revamp of Habib’s menu as interpreted by the young Chef whose Cordon Bleu credentials added French technique to a background of regional Indian and Pakistani ideas developed at home, it is mere moments after entering Shiraz that sinuses fill with a vast array of aromas while the space itself widens eyes with statues, pillars and paintings.
Large and far more elegant than the exterior might suggest, a small stage to the left featuring live entertainment on weekends while a well-stocked bar manned by mixologist Jozef Letasi lines an area designated for Hookah, it was after a quick look around that three guests were seated at a thick-clothed table set for six, the amount of plates ordered in no way accounting for generous portion sizes or prices lower than one might guess.
Offering fresh Halal Food that is preservative-free and never frozen, the kitchen itself certified per FDA standards so that catering may be offered to major Casinos just as Mr. Majid has done in the past, it was deferring much of the order to a man fluent in Persian that dinner was presented in three courses, a staff of familiar faces including another former Indian Restaurant owner carefully explaining each plate with additional notes added by Chef Jaffer when she had a moment to step away from the kitchen.
Still a work in progress, nearly a decade quietly serving Las Vegas’ small Iranian population suddenly adding another dimension of complexity and talent, it was with fruity Housemade Iced Tea in hand that two complimentary styles of Bread baked on-site were delivered alongside Butter and Vegetables, the Pita less fluffy than some but Barberi topped with Sesame Seeds a real treat not dissimilar in texture from Focaccia.
Told that the Radish and Onions are traditional condiments eaten along with Kabobs, another small bowl called Torshi also made for such with intense pickling and Herbs, it was setting aside more typical Babaganoush that a dish of cooked Eggplant in Mint, Turmeric, Onions and Walnut was served, each bite delicate and balanced whether eaten as a Dip on Bread or simply by itself.
Reasonably knowledgeable about Indian Cuisine but far less-so as relates to Persian it was in two waves that several dishes arrived after a brief wait as traditional tunes played lightly overhead, an Indian dish called Nihari first tasted and immediately perfuming the sinuses with Ginger before catching the throat with heat, a bit of Naan fresh from the Tandoor all that was needed to extinguish the fire before moving on to juicy Chicken marinated in Yogurt and Lamb that was texturally like Sausage lacking the Casing and unfortunately a bit heavy handed with Coriander.
From here turning attention to the menu’s less-familiar half, each dish offered deemed highly authentic by those with expertise, it was alongside bites of Rice fragrant with Saffron and punched up by Barberries that three styles of Kabob were tasted sequentially, the straight Beef and Chicken largely showing off ingredient quality and marinades while the national dish of Iran called Chelo Barg was a lean mix of Filet Mignon and Lamb Saddle with subtle hints of Saffron that went great with halved and grilled Tomatoes or the aforementioned accoutrements.
Next reappropriating Naan as a vehicle for two Persian Stews, though the Long Grain Rice or crispy Tahdig available by special request are perhaps even better in this role, one would be hard-pressed to decide whether Fesenjan or Ghormeh Sabzi were a better way to invest a limited appetite at Shiraz, the former certainly sweet but well-balanced by Chicken and Nuts that give it a hearty texture while the blend of eight herbs cooked up to 24-hours is complexity at its finest with several distinct layers of flavor developing across time on the palate.
Rounding out the evening with Dessert, an area of the menu that will require further investigation as Raja claims Chef Jaffer is as talented in Pastry as she clearly is with intricate Stews rooted in tradition, it was after a lengthy discussion about regional varieties of Kheer and why Rice Pudding might be a better description at Shiraz that Jainine’s family recipe impressed by its thickness and fragrance, the fresh-made Dumplings served on toothpicks rather than soaking in Sauce also impressive while the Tiramisu was fairly standard and probably less representative of what she can do than would be Kulfi or Gajar Halwa.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Tiptoeing a fine line between two ancient and distinct style of Cuisine with confidence Shiraz seems poised to make something fresh of a space many may not have even known to exist, an early struggle likely just as with any new concept but the décor and staff already top notch while the Food from Chef Jaffer is healthy, beautifully prepared and so captivating that many will be planning another visit before they even walk out the door.
RECOMMENDED: Barbari Bread, Butter Naan, Kash Bademjan, Zereshk Polo, Chelo Kabob Barg, Fesenjan, Ghormeh Sabzi, Tahdig, Kheer.
AVOID: Lamb Seekh Kebab, Pita.
TIP: See Shiraz’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ShirazLasVegas for an upcoming list of events including a Joel Robuchon tribute dinner on 08/20/18 or stop by Saturday nights for live music, bites and drinks in the lounge.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.shirazrestaurant.com
