{"id":189,"date":"2009-12-30T22:35:00","date_gmt":"2009-12-30T22:35:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/endoedibles.ifm.yji.mybluehost.me\/?p=189"},"modified":"2009-12-30T22:35:00","modified_gmt":"2009-12-30T22:35:00","slug":"per-se-new-york-ny","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/?p=189","title":{"rendered":"Per Se, New York NY"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\u2026in traditional fashion I had planned far in advance \u2013 having always wanted to experience the madness of New York City at New Years I booked my plane tickets in late September and had arranged to stay with my friends in Queens. <\/span>With that planning out of the way the only questions that remained were whether or not I could get the necessary reservations \u2013 a 30 minute wait on the phone on October 30th said yes \u2013 reservations for one at S. Pelligrino\u2019s best restaurant in North America on December 30th, a mere 10 months after my visit to the former best restaurant in North America on February 17th \u2013 both Thomas Keller institutions, both highly anticipated. <\/span>Having experienced a sublime extended tasting at TFL and having been on call Christmas Day (with only 2 days off since Black Friday) I decided to make Per Se equally special and celebrate my holidays by once again requesting an extended tasting. <\/span>Although the combination of downed website and ever-busy phone lines made the tasting more difficult to achieve than that at TFL, a call from one of the restaurant managers assured it could and would be done when I confirmed my reservation on 12\/27.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Arriving at the Time Warner Center around 5:00pm I browsed the shops for a while before making my way up the escalators to the 4th floor \u2013 while I know some complain that Per Se is located in a \u201cmall\u201d I personally did not find it to be problematic in the least. <\/span>While I certainly appreciate TFL\u2019s laid back country feel, I unfortunately went on a day when it was raining and with stores closing up as early as 4:30pm there is absolutely nothing to do in Yountville on a rainy day. <\/span>Arriving at the famous non-functional blue door (and humorously watching a couple attempt to open the door by turning the nob) there were already four other couples waiting in the faux-garden as the restaurant and not yet opened. <\/span>Stopping shortly to snap a few pictures the bilateral sliding glass doors quickly opened and two young ladies emerged to welcome us, collect our bags and coats, and even to take pictures of a few of us in front of the doors.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Bags checked each party was led throug h the Salon up to the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Central Park<\/st1:place> and into the dining room \u2013 the setting at Per Se, once you get past it being in the mall, is breath-taking. <\/span>Seated at a rounded booth on the second floor of the restaurant with a full view of every table in the room and the vastness of Central Park<\/st1:place> I was next greeted by a female server and my captain, Christopher. <\/span>Sparkling or Still \u2013 always Still \u2013 and soon after a glass of champagne \u2013 just like The Laundry. <\/span>Acknowledging that the Chef was prepared to make a special menu sans-beef\/veal flesh I was next asked if I\u2019d like to see the \u201cnormal\u201d menu in case there was anything that caught my eye \u2013 assenting to this request I browsed the menu and stated that if acceptable I\u2019d very much like the egg dish from the tasting of vegetables and the foie gras from the chef\u2019s tasting to be incorporated into my meal. <\/span>\u201cNot a problem\u201d was the response and I then settled in for what would be 315 minutes of near perfection.<\/span><\/p>\n

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In order to not belabor the discussion of service at Per Se I will note that Christopher was every bit as good as Reuben, my server at TFL and the standard by which all servers since have been judged. <\/span>Gracious and pleasant, inquisitive and informative, interesting and interested \u2013 flawless \u2013 and when he learned that I was not a wine drinker but not opposed to wine he actually went out of his way to provide complimentary 1oz servings of various wines to both teach me about wine and to compliment the food. <\/span>His ancillary staff was also quite good, but unlike at the Laundry I felt that bread service was slow (I actually had to ask for butter and bread after my 6th course while other tables received it immediately after the first) and my water glass actually reached empty twice \u2013 minor details for sure, but details none the less.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Kicking off the meal, exactly like the one in Yountville, were Keller\u2019s signature amuses bouche \u2013 a pair of gougeres and a salmon coronet \u2013 both of which were every bit as excellent as those previous. <\/span>A bit more conversation with Christopher and his staff followed \u2013 talk of the exhibits at MoMA I\u2019d just visited, plans for New Years, dining recommendations for both New York and elsewhere (Marea and Manresa being the two most discussed, along with Alinea and TFL,) and more flowed more like a conversation between friends than a conversation between server and guest.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Arriving shortly after the expected amuses was my first proper dish of the evening, at first glance and smell 4-5 caramelized Brussels Sprout leaves in a small bowl. <\/span>Finished tableside by Chris the bowl was next filled with a thick soup and topped with a creamy mousse to form what was named Pumpkin Veloute \u2013 Brussels Sprout Leaves and \u201cQuatre Epices\u201d Mousse. <\/span>Thick in its own right the soup was the very essence of pumpkin and stirring in the mousse \u2013 a blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and coriander \u2013 formed what can only be described as warm pumpkin pie interestingly sweetened only by the crispy caramelized Brussels sprouts.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Following the soup, again like my meal at The Laundry, was the mother of pearl spoon and Oysters and Pearls \u2013 Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. <\/span>Enough has been said of this single dish to write a book and it once again wowed with the oysters actually tasting even sweeter on this occasion than the last. <\/span>While not quite as amazing as Savoy\u2019s Colours of Caviar, this dish still amazes me given my overall lack of enthusiasm for both caviar and oysters when served solo.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Following the Oysters appeared a pair of chopsticks and the first of three light and unique seafood pairings served on a mirrored silver plate. <\/span>Entitled Nantucket<\/st1:placename> Bay<\/st1:placetype><\/st1:place> Scallop \u2013 English Cucumber, Daikon Radish, Sake Gelee, this dish was the first \u201cwow\u201d of the night. <\/span>Featuring plump and sweet scallops served nearly raw alongside a salad of crispy daikon and smooth English cucumber with a drizzle of intoxicatingly smooth sake reduction this dish demonstrated how beautifully fresh seafood and simple vegetables can taste when paired appropriately. <\/span>Light, fresh, and a great introduction to the following dishes.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Next on the tasting, this time served in a large bowl, was Spanish Mackerel \u2013 Cauliflower Florettes, Meyer Lemon and Espelette Pepper \u201cAigre Doux.\u201d <\/span>Strong in flavor yet mild for a mackerel this dish was a crudo to the scallop\u2019s sashimi \u2013 essentially cured in a sweet and spicy pepper vinegar\/oil comination and topped with a millimeter thin slice of Meyer lemon. <\/span>Accompanying the dish and adding some contrast were small cauliflower florettes, barely cooked, and poached in lemon.\"\"

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Continuing the progression of seafood preparations (from raw to cured to cooked) was hot smoked Columbia River Sturgeon \u2013 Yukon Gold Potato Blini, Granny Smith Apple and Scallion Salad \u2013 the second \u201cwow\u201d moment of the evening. <\/span>As Sturgeon is rivaled only by John Dory as my favorite fish this dish was met with high expectations the moment it was described and not only met but surpassed all of them. <\/span>Smoky and well cooked yet melt-in-the-mouth tender the piece of sturgeon actually laid in between the two thin slices of \u201cblini\u201d while the borders of the dish were formed by the slices of crisp apple and the \u201ccream\u201d atop the Blini served forth the very essence of mild scallions and butter.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Hoping for another great seafood prep I was surprised \u2013 and delighted \u2013 when my next dish arrived. <\/span>As requested, dish six of the evening was the Coddled Squire Hill Farms\u2019 Ameraucana Hen Egg \u2013 Ragout of Black Winter Truffles, Hazelnuts and Pickled Red Cabbage with Hollandaise Mousseline and Brioche Melba. <\/span>Complex in name and even more so in flavor there is really no way to describe the myriad layers of taste, texture, and aroma of this dish. <\/span>Starting from top down the first item to note was the crispy brioche melba chip atop \u2013 a crunchy layer that shattered with pressure from the spoon releasing the perfume of fresh truffle. <\/span>Taking a bite, first of the mousseline\/egg-custard mix and then of the custard along with the cabbage and hazelnuts , the senses were awakened at all angles by sweet hollandaise, creamy egg yolk, sour cabbage, crunchy yet smooth hazelnuts \u2013 all with the overhanging essence of truffle, butter, and poached egg. <\/span>An absolute must order my second or third favorite savory of the meal.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Wanting to soak up every last drop of the egg (I dunk my toast my egg-yolk and don\u2019t care where I am, it is delicious) I next found myself requesting bread \u2013 I honestly think the ancillary servers forgot because Chris was taking such good care of my table. <\/span>Arriving less than 2 minutes after my request were two Parker-House Rolls and a fleur de sel butter from the Loire Valley plus an unsalted cow butter from Straus Family Creamery in California \u2013 all three quite good but certainly not as fabulous as the pain au lait and the famous Animal Farm butter from The French Laundry. <\/span>Additional bread options during the meal included a chewy and salty pretzel roll, a delectable and crisp chapeau sourdough, an epi-baguette akin to the table bread at Bouchon, and a strong Riesling Rye \u2013 my favorite of the group. <\/span>Additionally, served with the cheese course, were slices of Lemon Poppyseed and Raisin Walnut.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Continuing the tasting and stemming from a conversation about my overall dislike of mustard, yet being impressed by the manner in which both Achatz and Kinch used it in iced preparations, Chris stated he\u2019d talk to Chef Benno about somehow fitting mustard into the menu. <\/span>Sure as promised, dish seven was comprised of Marcho Farm\u2019s Ris de Veu with Violet Artichokes, Fennel Bulb, and Pickled Mustard Seed Emulsion. <\/span>Delicate and perfectly pan seared the sweetbreads were amongst the best I\u2019d ever tasted and when paired with the surprisingly sweet artichokes, pungent fennel bulb, and spicy mustard seed the overall gustatory sensation of the dish was actually quite akin to a hotdog \u2013 something I\u2019d certainly not expected and evidence that when used appropriately there probably isn\u2019t a food or spice that can\u2019t be made to fit my palate.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dish eight was another dish from the tasting of vegetables and one that had caught my eye when browsing the online menu in the weeks leading up to my meal. <\/span>Entitled Greenmarket Carrot Pudding \u2013 Papadum, Poached Royal Blenheim Apricots and Parsley Shoots with Madras<\/st1:place><\/st1:city> Curry Vinaigrette. <\/span>Having never heard of papadum before I was informed by Chris that it was actually a type of Indian bread and that this dish was the chef\u2019s take on Gajar Halva \u2013 a traditional Indian dish \u2013 and a cuisine with which I must say I\u2019ve not had much experience. <\/span>On first smell I was immediately struck by the scents of cinnamon, cumin, curry, and vinegar and on first bite I noted all of the above and more. <\/span>A beautiful dish in both appearance and flavor the pudding itself actually reminded me of sweet potato pie with hints of apricot, wine, and carrot while the papadum lent a degree of crispiness and spice.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dish nine \u2013 and finally a misstep. <\/span>Imagine that situation where someone tries to do something extra special for you and it just doesn\u2019t quite work \u2013 not that it is \u201cbad,\u201d but it just doesn\u2019t live up to the hype \u2013 at Per Se that was \u201cQuail in a Jar.\u201d <\/span>Presented in the bottle at table-side first and then taken to the kitchen for plating this dish featured Cavendish Farm\u2019s White Quail stuffed with foie gras and allowed to steep in its own juices for greater than 6 months forming a jelly layer around the outside and a m\u00e9lange of meaty flavors within. <\/span>Served alongside petite lettuces and finished elaborately at tableside with 100 year old balsamic vinegar the dish was additionally presented with warm brioche (replaced as it began to cool) and a sampling of six salts. <\/span>While good, the overall flavor of the dish was largely a fatty quail flavor as opposed to the Foie Gras and the congealed pate did not spread appropriately on the brioche, making it largely irrelevant. <\/span>While I was certainly quite honored to receive a dish generally reserved for \u201cVIPs\u201d the overall effect of this dish was nowhere near as pleasing as the Foie Gras at The French Laundry and I was further annoyed when I watched a neighboring table ooh and ah about the menu Foie prep which I had requested \u2013 it looked quite similar to that which I experienced in Napa.<\/span><\/p>\n

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As much as I regret not having tasted the Foie Gras I had hoped for, the following dish was not only a return to everything I\u2019d expected from Per Se, but one of the ten best dishes I ate in 2009. <\/span>Entitled lengthily as \u201cherb Roasted Fillet of Mediterranean John Dory wrapped in Marcho Farm\u2019s Coeur de Veau, Hen of the Woods Mushroom, Salsify and Watercress Leaves, Sauce Beurre Rouge\u201d the dish was exactly as complex as it sounds. <\/span>Beginning with 2-3oz of clean and supple rosemary accented fish wrapped in 3 peppery slices of veal heart the proteins were quickly pan seared and placed delicately atop an admixture of cooked salsify and watercress plus crispy hen of the woods mushrooms and topped tableside with a savory reduction of clarified butter, pan drippings from the fish\/heart, and red wine \u2013 to call this the best \u201csurf n\u2019 turf\u201d ever would be an understatement \u2013 it was the best dish I\u2019ve yet encountered at a Thomas Keller restaurant.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Following the Dory \u2013 more offal with seafood \u2013 this time in the form of Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster \u2013 \u201cCrete de Coq,\u201d Sunchokes, Garden Chervil. <\/span>Having never tasted cock\u2019s comb before I started first with a single bite \u2013 somewhat chewy with the consistency of well prepared baby octopus and a smoky flavor not unlike pork. <\/span>Digging further into the dish I was next met by Keller\u2019s standard butter poached lobster tail, this time a west-coast variety with more pronounced sweetness than the Maine<\/st1:place><\/st1:state> tail from TFL, and the roots of garden chervil (much like a turnip in taste and texture) and sweet sunchokes. <\/span>Much like the previous dish this plate paired a meaty earth-tone with a sweet seafood quite elegantly.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The following dish was a swift change of pace but at the same time a welcome break in the heavy offal dishes. <\/span>Simply titled Hand Cut Tagliatelle with Black Italian Truffles this dish was exactly what you are supposed to do with a truffle \u2013 display them whole, slice them fresh, and pair them with something that highlights their taste, texture, and aroma. <\/span>Smooth and silky pasta with a light butter sauce (no cheese this time, unlike the gnocchi at the Laundry) simply served as a backdrop to the generous serving of truffle \u2013 one of the more hearty and aromatic truffles I\u2019ve had the opportunity to taste. <\/span>Really \u2013 what else can you say about this dish \u2013 truffles, butter, and pasta \u2013 delicious.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Moving towards the savory finales, my next dish would have easily served as the \u201cmain\u201d course at Daniel<\/st1:city>, Savoy<\/st1:state><\/st1:place>, or Robuchon \u2013 but it was not. <\/span>Titled All-day Braised Snake River Farms\u2019 Kurobuta Pork Jowl \u2013 Buckwheat Crepe, Scallion Emincee, Tokyo Turnips, French Prune Puree with Tellicherry Pepper Jus \u2013 another delicious balance of sweet and savory, fatty and fibrous, pungent and refined. <\/span>Tasting almost Hispanic \u2013 perhaps like an divine fajita \u2013 the pork itself literally melted in the mouth and mingled beautifully with the crisp yet delicate crepe stuffed with prune. <\/span>Topped with shredded turnip and scallion greens with pan seared scallions flanking each side the dish was completed with a sweet pepper sauce somewhat similar in flavor to barbeque sauce.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The true main course, and on par with the egg ragout for 2nd\/3rd favorite of the night, was Elysian Fields Farm\u2019s Rouelle D\u2019agnueau \u2013 \u201cLangue et Ris d\u2019Agneau,\u201d Celeriac Gratin, Young Beets, Parsley Shoots, Celery Branch Ribbons, Borscht Sauce. <\/span>Towards the upper left of the plate sat a 1-2oz piece of lamb shoulder and immediately next to it a cheesy concoction of celeriac that tasted much akin to au gratin potatoes, but sweeter. <\/span>To the right of the plate a single lamb sweetbread \u2013 something I\u2019d never tasted before but somewhat less sweet but more creamy and gamy than that of a cow, topped with another smaller piece of lamb. <\/span>Finishing the dish, in thin ribbons, were pan-seared slices of velvety and smooth lamb\u2019s tongue, crisp beets, and ribbons of crispy vegetables and an earthy beet jus.<\/span><\/p>\n

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At this point Chris stopped by to ask \u201chow are you doing?\u201d and questioned how much dessert I could handle. <\/span>Explaining that I was actually doing quite well and that the pace was perfect Chris stated \u201cthat is what we aim for with these extended tastings \u2013 I\u2019ll let the pastry team know you\u2019re ready for their best.\u201d <\/span>Stepping away my butter and bread dish were taken and a new bread plate plus bread selections for the cheese course were presented. <\/span>For the cheese, an elaborate presentation compared to the menu options – Epoisses with Fork Crushed Potatoes, Celery Branch Ribbons, and picked sunchokes \u2013 was served. <\/span>Although I had heard of Epoisses I had never actually tasted it until this point and I have to say both the odor and the flavor were a shock to the system. <\/span>Served warm, somewhat like an au gratin considering the potatoes – the orange\/red hue blended nicely with the picked sunchokes while the crispy celery actually acted to tame the pungent, acidic, and heavily nuanced flavor. <\/span>A fan of milder cheeses generally I have to say I\u2019d not have ordered this cheese by my own choosing but was actually quite impressed with the dish overall, especially when spreading a bit on the raisin bread.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Moving next to the sweets, first a palate cleanser in the form of Mandarin Orange Sorbet with wild Peppercorn Sable, Orange Tuile with Nyons Extra Virgin Olive Oil Emulsion. <\/span>Smooth and icy the sorbet itself tasted the very essence of Mandarin orange while the peppercorns and tuile provided a bit of contrast and the thickened Olive Oil beneath the sorbet provided a smooth and glassy finish.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Progressing with more citrus fruit flavors, the next dish arrived from one of the ancillary servers without much description aside from \u201cgrapefruit float.\u201d <\/span>Reviewing the menu later this dish was called Grapefruit Champagne Float \u2013 Ruby Red Grapefruit, Fleur de Sel Sable, Vanilla Ice Cream, Grapefruit Soda, Champagne Granite and although I remember liking it, the only memory I have of this dish was <\/span>thinking it tasted mostly like a salted and citrusy frozen margarita.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Arriving shortly after my Grapefruit was finished Chris appeared with a smile stating \u201cI\u2019m sure you had it at the Laundry, but I can\u2019t imagine a trip to Per Se without Coffee and Doughnuts.\u201d <\/span>Every bit as perfect as the version in Napa<\/st1:city><\/st1:place> \u2013 a light and airy piping hot doughnut and hole served alongside a slowly melting and creamy semifreddo that (if possible) tasted even better than I remember. <\/span>Also accompanying this dish was Per Se\u2019s coffee service \u2013 a nutty blend with notes of fruit and chicory, more Bouchon than French Laundry.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Starting to feel full but not yet uncomfortable I stood up momentarily to browse the room, visit the restroom, and let things settle. <\/span>Returning to my table I found a fresh napkin folded and a bit of commotion at the table next to me \u2013 3 affluent gentlemen \u2013 one of whom was clearly a regular and apparently \u201callergic to the smell of coffee coming from my table,\u201d were re-arranging seats. <\/span>Overhearing his complaint (impossible, from a medical standpoint) I merely chuckled as his friends apologized profusely and offered to buy me a glass of \u201canything I\u2019d like.\u201d <\/span>Thanking them I declined the offer and simply sat amazed at the audacity of some people \u2013 for what its worth I heard him note that the service at El Bulli is \u201cno where near the quality of Per Se,\u201d \u2013 he\u2019d purportedly been there twice and to Per Se \u201cDozens\u201d of times.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Following this short delay (thankful as I somehow found more stomach space) was my first \u201cproper\u201d dessert – Pear and Caramel \u2013 Madagascar Vanilla-Poached Bartlett Pear, Caramel Mousse, Pear Pate de Fruit, Glace au Beurre Noisette. A tasting in its own right this dish featured three different \u201cpear forms\u201d \u2013 a creamy pear biscuit topped with butter ice cream, a thin slice of poached pear rolled around a smooth caramel mousse, and a ball of poached pear with heavy accents of cinnamon and vanilla perched atop a macaron-esque pear cookie and topped with another thin slice of pear. <\/span>Flanking the three forms were also three cubes of pear gelee. <\/span>Featuring many pale colors this dish was very calming and smooth \u2013 and it would\u2019ve been an excellent end to any meal\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n

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Expecting the trail of mignardises to follow I was surprised when another fork and spoon were laid out after the pear was taken away \u2013 and even more surprised when the next dish arrived. <\/span>Entitled \u201cMont Blanc<\/st1:place>\u201d this dish was Per Se\u2019s take on Tiramisu (my second favorite genre of dessert, behind only bread pudding.) <\/span>Beautifully presented the dish featured a Chestnut Genoise, Swiss Meringue, Chocolate-Juniper Cremeux, Rum Parfait, and Marron Glace with Chocolate Ice Cream and honestly made all previous incarnations of tiramisu outside of Jean-Philippe pale in comparison. <\/span>Crackling chocolate coating over light and airy cake and cremeux, deep and fragrant chocolate atop an airy meringue and a delicious gelatinous cream of chestnut puree \u2013 a flawless dessert only further enhanced by top notes of rum.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Still licking my lips and enjoying another cup of coffee after the Mont Blanc<\/st1:place> I was brought another small spoon and the first of the escort of mignardises \u2013 a creamy pot of sweet-milk panna-cotta served over huckleberry compote. <\/span>Only 2-3 bites, perfect after such a meal.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Arriving next, directly borrowed from Napa<\/st1:place><\/st1:city>, was the three tiered case of caramels, pistachio nougats, and truffles (dark, light, white) and the porcelain container of chocolate covered hazelnuts. <\/span>An additional surprise was a small jar of miniature mints and cherry candies and the number of chocolates available at Per Se \u2013 nearly twice as many as The French Laundry. <\/span>Selecting eight including White Cheesecake, Valhrona 77%, Peanut Butter, Maple Nut, Cherry Balsamic, Fleur De Sel, Caramel, and Olive Oil I was particularly impressed by the balsamic and fleur de sel \u2013 as good as any chocolatier I\u2019ve yet encountered.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Finally giving up with a few truffles and plenty of candies and nuts left on the table I drank one last cup of coffee and chatted with Christopher for a bit about dining in and around NYC. <\/span>On requesting a copy of the menu be mailed to me like they did at TFL Chris stated they could do one better and actually produced a copy of the menu that he had personally typed up that evening. <\/span>In addition to the menu he delivered the night\u2019s take home gift \u2013 four S\u2019more \u201cfinger sandwiches\u201d with the texture of a Kit-Kat and the flavors of Vanilla Marshmallow, Cinnamon Graham, and Dark Chocolate \u2013 and six more chocolates in a small wrapped box \u201cfor my friends.\u201d <\/span>I won\u2019t lie \u2013 I ate them the following morning.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Finishing up my coffee and paying the bill I was offered a tour of the kitchen \u2013 ENORMOUS in comparison to the version in Yountville and featuring nearly twice as many chefs\/stations to fill the space. <\/span>Leaving around 10:30 (7:30pm in California<\/st1:place><\/st1:state>) the televised display of The French Laundry was bustling whereas the view of Per Se when I ate out West was merely the cleaning crew. <\/span>Unfortunately I was informed that Chef Benno had left around 9:00 to spend some time with family who was visiting from out of town and as such I didn\u2019t get to meet him, but the rest of the kitchen crew were as welcoming and gracious as expected. <\/span>Making my way through the kitchen Chris went out of his way to show me two Bahaus items made exclusively for Chef Keller \u2013 once again noting that he\u2019d been paying plenty of attention to our conversation and the fact that I\u2019d visited MoMA earlier in the day.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Visiting the lobby and collecting my coat and bag the host and hostess bid me farewell and I made my way out to the now-empty TWC and proceeded to walk back to Penn Station where I\u2019d catch my ride to Queens<\/st1:place>. <\/span>Thinking as I walked along about how fortunate I was to experience such a meal the inevitable comparison came to mind \u2013 which was better, The French Laundry or Per Se – <\/span>a difficult decision to be sure. <\/span>Similar, of course, I think that while I liked Chris better than Reuben, the overall service at The French Laundry is a bit more polished while the cuisine at Per Se is a bit more edgy \u2013 still rooted in the perfection built at The French Laundry but perhaps pushing the boundaries a little further. <\/span>All things considering – from setting to food to service to mood \u2013 I think Per Se is exactly what Keller intended, a modern\/city take on what he created in Napa and I would undoubtedly return to either in a heartbeat. <\/span>With that said, if I could choose only one or the other for my \u201clast meal\u201d it would be The Laundry \u2013 there is just something about that setting, that farm, and that tiny little city that makes it one of a kind.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u2026in traditional fashion I had planned far in advance \u2013 having always wanted to experience the madness of New York City at New Years I booked my plane tickets in late September and had arranged to stay with my friends … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,13,45,153,24,15,246,62,65,17,83],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-189","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-coffee","category-dessert","category-foie","category-ice-cream","category-lobster","category-new-york","category-per-se","category-sweetbreads","category-tasting-menu","category-tiramisu","category-truffle"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/189","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=189"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/189\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=189"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=189"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=189"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}