{"id":249,"date":"2010-06-28T22:44:00","date_gmt":"2010-06-28T22:44:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/endoedibles.ifm.yji.mybluehost.me\/?p=249"},"modified":"2010-06-28T22:44:00","modified_gmt":"2010-06-28T22:44:00","slug":"eleven-pittsburgh-pa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/?p=249","title":{"rendered":"Eleven, Pittsburgh PA"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Ideally I tend to avoid restaurants owned by a \u201crestaurant group,\u201d especially the groups that seem intent to cover every corner of the culinary globe. <\/span>Its not that I\u2019m against large conglomerates owning restaurants, it is that they often feel contrived or \u201cput-on\u201d \u2013 as if they\u2019re trying to hard to be everything to everyone. <\/span>With that noted, I must say that there are certainly exceptions like Danny Meyer\u2019s Union Square Restaurant Group in NYC and the LettuceEntertainYou Group in Chicago that have put on outstanding meals \u2013 great enough that I felt it requisite to visit at least one of the Big Burrito family during my visit to Pittsburgh.<\/span><\/p>\n

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With most of the collection open for both lunch and dinner I scoured the reviews and the menus \u2013 it was honestly a toss-up between Umi, Eleven, and Casbah from the start. <\/span>In the end it turned out that Umi was closed and I actually preferred Casbah\u2019s lunch menu to dinner…and Eleven apparently had a Chef\u2019s Table Tasting Menu that was largely unadvertised. <\/span>Calling the restaurant I was informed that the Chef\u2019s Table was generally for groups of 4-6, but if no one had booked it for a given night they\u2019d be willing to seat a solo for the standard price of $100 for 9 courses \u2013 placing my reservation a couple weeks in advance I was glad to find out that Mondays were generally quiet and I\u2019d have the table all to myself.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Arriving at the attractive restaurant \u2013 high ceilings, glass, and sleek woods galore \u2013 just before my 6:30 reservation I was greeted by a pair of smiling hostesses and led immediately to the Chef\u2019s Table \u2013 a long wooden booth adjacent to the kitchen. <\/span>Somewhat disappointed as my only vantage point of the action in the kitchen was through a small slit in the tiles, I was promptly greeted one of two servers who provided the cocktail list and filled my water. <\/span>Professional and courteous I will note that service throughout the evening was mostly competent, albeit not overwhelming \u2013 a course was delivered without silverware, water reached empty twice, plate clearing was a touch slow. <\/span>Fortunately, as part of the Chef\u2019s Table experience I had the honor of receiving all of my dishes (and excellent descriptions of preparation and ingredient sourcing) from Chef Chad<\/st1:country-region><\/st1:place> himself.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Drink order placed (a potent yet subtly sweet Effed Up Tom Collins featuring Effen Black Cherry Vodka, Lemon, and Soda,) I sat and chatted with the young chef for a bit \u2013 a pleasant and down to earth man it was great to see how excited he was about his menu and sourcing, especially his house cured charcuterie. <\/span>Asking me about likes and dislikes our dialogue lasted approximately 5 minutes before I was wished \u201cBon Appetite\u201d and the Chef disappeared to the kitchen.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Shortly after the chef\u2019s departure the bread-lady arrived with a woven basket featuring three house-made breads. <\/span>Browsing the online list and realizing Eleven takes orders for breads and confections all I can say is that the bread basket gives me a good idea why \u2013 all three of the options were excellent. <\/span>From a sweet yet toothsome Currant Semolina Sourdough, to a rustic and aromatic Carraway Wheat, to a heavenly moist Sea Salt Focaccia each of the options was excellent…and while my primary server wasn\u2019t always on the ball, I was never for want when it came to bread.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Kicking off the tasting menu was a pairing not unlike many amuses bouche \u2013 to the left a Beau Soleil Oyster Wrapped in Zucchini and topped with a yuzu gelee, and to the right a foie gras mousse topped with pink peppercorn and strawberry. <\/span>While somewhat predictable I have to say that the Oyster was one of the better raw preparations I\u2019ve ever had \u2013 the briny mollusk tempered nicely by the crisp zucchini and sour cube. <\/span>The foie gras \u2013 it was good, but nothing I hadn\u2019t experienced before, and much smaller.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dish two would up the ante in terms of size, flavor, and technique. <\/span>Entitled Salmon with Lemon Miso, Cucumber, and Radish the course paired an excellent slice of sashimi grade line caught King Salmon with crisp cucumber, bitter radish, and a texturally compelling lemon accented miso paste. <\/span>Drizzled with a spicy sauce highlighted bold accents of jalapeno the overall flavor harkened to a spicy salmon roll.\"\"

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The third course of the evening would provide the first \u201cwow\u201d of the tasting \u2013 an impressive accomplishment given the simplicity of the dish. <\/span>Served proudly and with great description by Chad<\/st1:place><\/st1:country-region> the House Cured Prosciutto with Three Sisters Mesclun, Vin Cotto, Olive Oil was sublime \u2013 the nutty notes of the silky pork only enhanced by the slightly bitter greens, acidic yet sweet vin cotto, and smooth olive oil. <\/span>A new passion of the young chef I was even given the opportunity to see the curing area after my meal \u2013 a small section of the wine vault with meats aged anywhere from a week to nearly a year \u2013 a return visit for charcuterie at the <\/span>bar would certainly be on my agenda if I lived locally.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Course four would return to fish yet also continue the savory tones of the previous course. <\/span>Alaska Halibut with Red Pepper, Bacon, Tarragon, Asparagus, and Carrots proved to be a rather straight forward dish \u2013 familiar yet well done. <\/span>Anchored by a nicely seasoned pan seared slice of halibut the addition of fresh vegetables, salty bacon, and spicy red pepper simply served as a reminder that chefs need not always use esoteric ingredients to make a fresh piece of fish taste great.\"\"

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Dish five would mark the midpoint of the meal and continue to display Chad<\/st1:place><\/st1:country-region>\u2019s skill with traditional \u201cAmerican\u201d food done right. <\/span>Again featuring ingredients that were neither unfamiliar nor exotic, Tagliatelle with Lobster, Mascarpone, Asparagus, and Lobster Coral featured snappy and sweet Atlantic lobster, approximately one claw and half a tail, served over nicely prepared hand torn Tagliatelle. <\/span>Mellowing the sweet protein salty lobster eggs and crisp asparagus added texture and flavor, though I must admit I was a tad confused by why the chef would opt to use the same vegetable in back to back dishes.<\/span><\/p>\n

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A short break followed the pasta and the chef emerged to chat a bit between courses. <\/span>Largely content although certainly not overwhelmed I was told that the next two courses were two of his favorites. <\/span>The first, course six, would be another familiar flavor \u2013 but also one of the most stunning pieces of poultry I\u2019ve tasted in some time. <\/span>Described as Heritage Farms Chicken \u2013 Salt Roasted with Chanterelles and Savory the dish could not have been more simple or American\u2026it also couldn\u2019t have been much more delicious. <\/span>Succulent and moist with a crispy skin the chicken itself was flawless. <\/span>Pairing the fantastic bird with pan crisped woodsy mushrooms and an aromatic sauce \u2013 everything felt very \u201cdown home\u201d yet at the same time very upscale.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The final savory of the evening would be my favorite, as well. <\/span>Large in portion and bold in flavor, Elysian Field Farms Lamb \u2013 Sous Vide with Crispy Lamb Neck, Anson Mills Polenta, Golden Artichoke, and Mint was marvelous. <\/span>Nearly raw yet sizzling hot, the lamb itself was not as gamey as would be expected and the crispy wrapping of neck lent plenty of texture and savory flavor. <\/span>Acting as a bed to the butter-knife soft lamb was a chive laden and creamy polenta with the slightest hints of mint and mace. <\/span>Flanking the protein along with a savory lamb jus were crispy artichoke hearts \u2013 pan seared and creamy within, a vegetal composition not unlike the lamb in terms of presentation.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Following the lamb, course 9 would serve as my cheese course. <\/span>Browsing the cheeses offered I have to admit I was hoping for Red Hawk as my composed course and I was delighted when the washed, triple cream cow\u2019s milk cheese from Cowgirl Creamery arrived. <\/span>Entitled Red Hawk, Brioche, Membrillo, Honey, Walnuts this was one of the better single offering composed cheese courses I\u2019ve had the opportunity to enjoy\u2026mostly because the buttery velvet texture of the Red Hawk is just so good on its own and the slightly sweetened brioche was (like everything from Eleven\u2019s bakery) fantastic\u2026and really, quince never fails either.<\/span><\/p>\n

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A long delay followed the cheese course \u2013 it was then that I took a tour of the wine\/charcuterie room, was treated to a view of the kitchen, and chatted with Chad<\/st1:place><\/st1:country-region> some more. <\/span>Returning to my seat I was next greeted by the pastry chef who presented me a trifecta of her favorite desserts from the menu. <\/span>Titled on the menu as \u201cTasting\u201d the trio contained miniature versions of Eleven\u2019s Famous Peanut Butter Pretzel Candy Bar, Banana Cream Pie with Tapioca, and Brioche Bread Pudding with Cinnamon and Strawberries. <\/span>While I will note I\u2019d have preferred received all three as separate courses (time and temperature reasons only) I will also note that the lady has talent \u2013 each option was stunning. <\/span>Creamy peanut butter with chocolate ganache and salty pretzels, caramelized bananas with hand whipped cream and graham crackers\u2026and oh the Bread Pudding. <\/span>With finger-thick slices of buttery brioche caramelized and doused in a salty cinnamon caramel reduction, the only thing that made it better was the ice cream, a smooth dollop of spicy cinnamon that melted slowly over the hot pudding.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Full but not stuffed I awaited my check while chatting again with the chef \u2013 in all honesty I really do think Chad<\/st1:place><\/st1:country-region> spent a good 30 minutes (of my somewhat expedited 115 minute tasting) either at my table or showing me the facilities. <\/span>Bidding the chef farewell and congratulating him on a largely successful meal my bill arrived with a small plate of mignardises – Apricot Pate a Fruit, Strawberry Balsamic Pate a Fruit, and a Cocoa<\/st1:place><\/st1:City> rolled Dark Chocolate. <\/span>Settling the bill and collecting my belongings I made my way to the bar for a short time while awaiting my ride \u2013 a nice space, lively, and much more filled than the restaurant proper.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Looking back on dinner at Eleven the word the two words that come to mind are \u201cAmerican\u201d and \u201cCompetent.\u201d <\/span>To be fair, in my experience I\u2019ve never really had a tasting menu that I would call \u201cAmerican\u201d without pronounced flourishes of French or Mediterranean \u2013 the Chef\u2019s table at Eleven was almost like going to CUT or a similar high end steak house and getting a tasting\u2026the food varied from very good to excellent, but certainly did not re-invent the wheel. <\/span>For $100 the quality, presentation, and ingredients were certainly worth the price \u2013 but at the same time, I can\u2019t say I would rush back. <\/span>That said, Chad<\/st1:place><\/st1:country-region> is an excellent Chef with a lot of potential and the space at Eleven is beautiful \u2013 I\u2019d certainly go back for some a la carte selections and dessert anytime.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ideally I tend to avoid restaurants owned by a \u201crestaurant group,\u201d especially the groups that seem intent to cover every corner of the culinary globe. Its not that I\u2019m against large conglomerates owning restaurants, it is that they often feel … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,25,13,350,45,27,24,345,347,61,65,12],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-249","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-bread-basket","category-bread-pudding","category-dessert","category-eleven","category-foie","category-food","category-lobster","category-pennsylvania","category-pittsburgh","category-pork","category-tasting-menu","category-vacation"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/249","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=249"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/249\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=249"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=249"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/endoedibles.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=249"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}