Now 81 with Pasticceria throughout Italy those who call Iginio Massari “King of Pastries” or the “World’s Best Pastry Chef” are certainly within their rights, especially as his Galleria on the ground floor of the Helvetia & Bristol Hotel in Florence continues to generate long lines daily.
Drawn to Pastry from a young age, and working in kitchens now for nearly seventy years, it is inside modern confines that guests discover all sorts of Viennoiserie as well as leavened Breads formed by hand from nothing but the area’s best Ingredients.
More pricey than local artisans, though certainly not unrealistic as items such as a faultless Veneziane cost only €2, those arriving to Via dei Vecchietti 3 early will note Sfogliata with various fillings including creamy Pistachios alongside a delicate Pastry brushed with Butter and packed with Rice Pudding.
Perhaps best known for Roman Maritozzi, often dressed up for special occasions, Massari feature Brioche so light that it almost seems impossible surrounding a choice of Custard or ethereal Pastry Cream.
Serving Florence since 1939 Caffé Scudieri is an institution, its unparalleled vantage of Piazza del Duomo pairing with professional service and an interior that defines luxury through crystal, leather and marble.
Located at the corner of Via dei Cerretani with early hours, many opting for an Espresso and Cornetto to go, it is inside that a selection of Pastries resides behind glass ranging from Frittelle filled with Custard to Ham and Cheese on Viennoserie.
Pulling shots fast, a complex roast with notes of Caramel, fans of Zeppoli will find Scudieri’s a textural masterpiece with restrained sweetness while the Torta della Nonna arrives rustic and sizable with a hint of Citrus atop the Shortbread Crust.
Also offering proper plates and Pasta later, both traditional and centered on tourists, Cornetti come with or without Crema and the Budino di Riso is exceptional thanks to a gently tanned skin with luscious Rice Pudding beneath.
Since 1880 Buca Lapi has been a part of Florence, the vaulted Palazzo Antinori cellar lined in posters while formally dressed servers play well to crowds comprised mostly of tourists seeking an “Authentic” Tuscan meal.
Maintained through slow restoration, old lampshades scribbled with the names of visitors adding to its charm, diners will find white tablecloths plus an extensive Wine list from which Reds such as house Chianti are more pricey than similar local eateries.
The oldest Restaurant in town, and arguably the most straightforward, all tables begin with basic Bread followed by Antipasti including Salads or Soup and Charcuterie including warm Liver on Toast.
Known to make all Pastas on-site, Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu frankly underseasoned while signature Cannelloni eat richer thanks to Cheese and Cream, most tables will splurge for €70 Bistecca alla Fiorentina served Rare while Veal Meatballs are overworked and forgettable.
Crema Gelato, Buontalenti Al Mascarpone Gelato, Pistachio Gelato, Cone
Straccialetta Gelato, Cone
Housed in a former palace along the Amo Gelateria Santa Trinita opened in 2008, a focus on pure flavors made properly plus some social media savvy quickly moving them towards the top of Florence’s competitive Gelato scene.
Adjacent Santa Trinita Bridge, with an Emporio next door focused on Artisan goods, it is withing the Gelateria that guests will fin everything from Cakes to forty flavors such as Straccialetta and Pistachio featuring nuts from Bronte to pure Crema, Black Sesame and airy “Buontalenti Al Mascarpone” that likens frozen Creme Chantilly.
Serving Florence since 1945 Trattoria Cammillo is where affluent locals go for homestyle cooking, though thanks to social media the space has landed on several lists with an associated influx of tourists able to make a reservation by phone since Cammillo has no website.
Cozy with white-tablecloths and veteran servers, the arched brick ceiling stretching over marble floors, diners begin to arrive around noon for lunch when the same extensive menu as dinner is served until 14h30.
Attesting to an older time, faded paintings and fixtures with a patina part of the charm, it is after perusing a large Wine list that Bread arrives followed by a selection of Cured Meats at a tab more precious than many but largely justified by the quality.
Happy to defer an order to the waiter, a man who has been with the Trattoria for two decades, Tortellini en Brodo comes in a generous portion with good depth of flavor while Homemade Tagleirini with Ham and Artichoke Sauce is mild yet enjoyable.
Faced with difficult decisions for Secondi, a number of plates featuring Offal juxtaposing Florentine classics, fans of Rabbit will find Cammillo fried version satisfying while Trippa alla fiorentina is rigorously cleaned and cooked in Tomatoes with a hint of Vinegar and Wine.
Owned and operated by a self-taught Baker Dolci e Dolcezze has been serving Florence since the 1970s, its location on Piazza Cesare Beccaria secluded in a manner that gives everything inside and air of elegance and nostalgia.
A Cake Shop well known for Fruit Tarts, but also well-regarded for Cookies and Schiacciata, those arriving early will be happy to find items such as an hourglass shaped Pastry with Custard still warm while “Torta di Riso” takes on a different look thanks to a crisp Shell filled with Rice Pudding.
Not far from Piazza Santa Croce, a solo clerk slowed by multiple guests at 09h00, those not in the mood for a large Strawberry Tar should direct their attention to Viennoserie filled with Jam or a textbook Cornetti about to burst with Cream.
Sfogliatelle with Pistachio Cream, Sfogliatelle with Chocolate Cream
Serving Florence since 1968 Antico Forno Giglio is a neighborhood Bakery known for Tomato Pizzas and a variety of Breads, the family owned space from Emilio and Naida Nuti sparse on square meters but bountiful in terms of options from 07h00 Monday through Saturday.
Less celebrated for sweets than Rye, Schiacciata or other seasonal options guests seeking Breakfast will find a variety of Cookies plus Pasticerria while items such as Cornetti and Tortine are pillowy soft in comparison to filled Sfogliatelle that shatter to yield creamy Fillings.
Liver Toast, Cod Fish Toast, Wild Boar Tartare with Olives, Dried Pork Skin, Marinated Garlic
Bacon
Oxtail Stew
Beef Fat Potatoes
White Beans
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Blackberry Pinenut Crostata
Torta della Nona
Espresso
A single building in the hills of Mugello, an hour outside of Florence, Antica Osteria di Nandone has been serving guests since 1909.
A destination not only as a result of its location at the top of unlit and winding roads, but also due to the Restaurant’s inclusion on the “World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants,” it is inside the converted home that fourth generation owner Paolo Mugnai carefully cooks Bistecca alla Fiorentina plus antipasti and sides served family-style amidst rustic confines.
A historic eatery on the road that goes from Scarperia to the Giogo Pass, not something one simply happens upon, it is for just €45 that dishes arrive as ready along with house Wine and the sort of service one might expect when dining at a good friend’s house.
Utilizing only local ingredients, particularly adult Cows from nearby farms, T-Bones arrive well marbled with a crust of Salt and Pepper cooked over smoldering embers and a generous ring of fat that attests to a month or more of dry-aging.
MARGHERITA – Steamed and Oven-baked pizza with tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, basil and Calabrian oregano
White polenta cream with cuttlefish ink sauce and fried baby shrimp
Smoked paprika tagliatelle with butter and fresh Alajmo caviar
Duck ragu ravioli with orange butter
Puff pastry with zabaione and pears cooked in red wine
Sprawled across the Philippe Starck-designed atrium at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi guests will discover Amo, Chef Massimiliano Alajmo’s casual eatery toqued by longtime collaborator Silvio Giavedoni.
Once an exchange for goods from northern Europe to Venice, and now a shopping center for luxury goods from top brands, those entering the building near Rialto Bridge to dine will be seated in posh booths with bright colors while service is efficient but not necessarily friendly.
Still the youngest Chef ever awarded three Michelin stars, la calandre’s location just 48km away allowing Alajmo to remain involved, familiar diners will notice several ideas referencing the flagship though Fried Pizza with Mortadella and airy steamed Pizzas are also available.
Pricey in comparison to other Venetian eateries, though certainly not expensive considering the Ingredients involved, Organic Cornmeal arrives as a textural masterpiece thanks to fried Shrimp while Ravioli in Duck Ragu are elevated by fragrant Orange Butter.
Also with a grab-and-go area offering Pastries and Coffee, plus several packaged goods from Max’s kitchen, those looking for the best bites will find it in handmade Noodles bright with Paprika coiled beneath Caviar and a Millefeuille made a la minute with Pears and Zabaione.
Located on the street for which it is named Pasticceria Bar Toletta is a standing-room-only Bakery known best for embracing food allergies and intolerances, their Vegan Cornetti famous enough to sell out early while more traditional items such as the version with Butter and Pistachios are fluffy with a good crumb and plenty of filling.
Open at 07h30 on weekdays and thirty minutes later Saturday as well as Sunday it is alongside Hausbrandt Espresso that diners are invited to enjoy Maritozzi lined in Cream or Sfogliatelle made as they are in Naples with shattering layers around Ricotta and Semolina kissed by Lemon.
Popular thanks to patio seating overlooking Giudecca Canal Gelateria Nico is a family-owned establishment on Fondamenta Zattere ai Gesuati, hours from 07h30 to 18h00 every day but Thursday finding outside seats occupied with additional seats within.
Not offering Gelato before 11h00, morning better suited for Espresso and Pastries, guests will find a fairly basic selection priced higher than many, the Waffle’s visibly taken from cellophane and rewarmed while Bread topped with Ham and Cheese comes from a beg before getting pressed.
Relaxed in terms of service, well suited for those hoping to watch the sunset over an Aperol Spritz, fans of Cannoli should look elsewhere as Nico’s taste stale while the Cornetti and Rice Tart are average, at best.
Fried appetizer: vegetables. cod fish and stuffed zucchini
Traditional appetizer: boiled octopus, creamed stockfish, sardines Venice style
Bigoli with Duck Sauce
Spaghetti with Clams
Cuttlefish in Venice style with Grilled Polenta
Frito Misto
Pear Pie with cinnamon and vanilla custard cream
Probably the toughest reservation in Venice, just 4 tables and a few high tops for a €45 three-course prix fixe at Dinner, Osteria al Cicheto is a small Bacaro tucked away on Calle de la Misericordia just a few hundred meters from the train station.
Known for a lengthy list of local Wines, many natural, guests at lunch will find Cichetti plus fried Snacks at the bar while those with reservations after dark can order the same in addition to a dozen or more Venetian classics.
Friendly and tourist-friendly, though locals commonly fill the space from open to close, selections prove tough despite a well-culled list, and whether one chooses Appetizers fried or not the flavors are bold and well paired to White Wine with a bit of acidity.
Local and Seasonal, though dishes such as Spaghetti with Clams and thicker Tubes beneath Duck Ragu are available most days, Frito Misto entails whatever is caught fresh in bountiful portions while Squid in their Ink shine adjacent grilled Polenta.
Making all Desserts on site, an extra €6 for those with room, expect Tirsmisu and Cookies anytime but if asked for a recommendation all servers will suggest delicate Pear Pie that eats more like a Cake resting in two types of Custard.
Potato gnocchetti with small calamari and cinnamon
Spaghetti with “bevarasse” clams
Garden chicories and ricotta ravioli with crab “buranella” style
Bronte pistachio cake, Bronte pistachio gelato
Tucked away on Calle del Mondo Novo, more so currently than usual as a result of construction scaffolds, Osteria alle Testiere is a rare find in Venice thanks to a focus of daily catch and a complete lack of touristy flare.
Best seen as a Bacaro, just ten tables and a small kitchen despite the extensive Wine list, guests visiting at lunch or dinner will find simple wood tables and beige linens while the lack of decorations puts focus on Food, Beverage and conversation.
Prone to seasonal Produce in addition to Shellfish, an opening volley of Baccala atop grilled Cornmeal simple yet faultless, Pastas run €26 and include traditional Spaghetti with Clams alongside Ravioli laced with Bitter Greens offset by creamy Crab Sauce.
More provocative by way of tender Dumplings served with Squid in their Ink perfumed by Cinnamon Dessert offers a variety of choices, though those in the know won’t think twice before ordering tender Pistachio Cake crowned by a scoop of housemade Gelato.
Not to be confused with large corporate Gelato makers like Grom Gelato Gallonetto has been a part of Venice since 1985, its tiny confines necessitating take-out while prices compare favorably to more touristy shops nearby.
Not a spot for piled Oreos or other nonsense, a third generation shop serving natural flavors from metal canisters, guests will spend roughly €4 for three flavors topped with Cream and a Tuile, both Fior di Latte and Crema Veneziana attesting to a well-made base while Pistachio Smeraldo is pale green and peerless thanks to its purity and lack of added sweeteners.
Widely heralded for freshly made Tiramisu in a variety of flavors I Tre Mercanti actually began as a market by three locals aiming to represent and spread Venice’s culinary traditions to locals as well as tourists.
Part Wine Shop and packaged goods store, items such as Amarena Cherries and Pesto available at fair prices, it is through the front glass that guests watch Chefs assemble layers separated by Cream, the Dessert invented in Treviso achieving lightness despite rich Ingredients whether traditionally with Cocoa and Coffee or featuring Pistachios.
Part of the city since 2007, Espresso shots on the go a necessity for those looking to make the most of their visit, guests seeking more sweetness will find Macarons made daily plus handmade Cannoli Shells filled by complex Sheep’s Milk Ricotta suspending Chocolate and Citrus.
Owned by the Allegria Group and open daily starting at 06h00 Pasticceria Panarea has been serving Vicenza for decades, a wide array of traditional Pastries and Mediterranean Fare at fair prices seeing a sizable dining room frequently busy.
Located at Battaglione Val Leogra 38 with plenty of parking it is upon entry that guests will notice glass cases half-full while a bar further on pulls Espresso shots and mixes drinks with speed.
A well-rounded collection, the Baba a little harsh compared to others, Donuts eat light beneath a light coat of Sugar while Cannoli with a dense shell and candied Citrus are mostly unremarkable.
Better for Sfogliatelle, warm Semolina and Rictotta outpacing smaller shells filled with flavored Cream, Zeppoli show well in their traditional form with a Choux-like Ring around Custard crowned by a Cherry.
Potato Gnocchi with Osetra “Private selection Bottega Vini” Caviar and Chives
Bottega Chips
Budino with Chocolate, Caramel and Cream
Sabbiosa Cake with Coffee Cream
Able to trace its history to the sixteenth century and celebrated as an eatery since 1890 Antica Bottega del Vino, or Bottega Vini, rates highly amongst Verona citizens and visitors for both an extensive Wine List and homemade Food intended to compliment it.
Purchased by Le Famiglie dell’Amarone d’Arte and Antica Rinomata Riseria Ferron in 2011, a bit of restoration doing nothing to distract from Bottega’s old-world charm, it is with patrons two-deep at the Bar that those with reservations are seated to choose their meal before a Sommelier visits to discus pairings.
Offering off-menu Cicchetti that change frequently, or a plate of 24 month Prosciutto to match €8 glasses of Sparkling Wine, fans of Venetian tradition will be happy to find Baccala served soft atop a bed of Polenta while those seking to simply snack enjoy freshly fried Potatoes served thin and crispy.
Known for housemade Pastas, faultless Bigoli beneath Duck Ragout best suited to Chianti, those willing to spend a little extra will be delighted by airy Dumplings slicked in Butter with a liberal spoon of Caviar plus Chives.
Decorated in Medieval style, heavy woods and varnished walls surrounding wrought-iron chandeliers supporting empty bottles, it is best to allow busy servers to suggest Dolci that include a “Budino” more like Flan adjacent thick Chocolate or Potato Flake “Sandy Cake” complimented by Coffee Cream.
Caramelized Pears, Pumpkin Seed Praline, White Chocolate Cream, Sage, Pistachio
Crunchy Dark Chocolate, Burnt Milk
Ras el Hanout Cannoncino King Size, Vanilla Cream, Armagiana Apricots
Torrone, Lemon Jelly
Polarizing as any Italian concept that dares to challenge centuries of tradition Lido 84 from Riccardo and Giancarlo Camanini seeks to reinterpret classic recipes as “food for thought” utilizing old and new techniques.
Housed in a former beach club on Lake Garda guests are invited to dine indoors or on a terrace as weather permits, all while Giancarlo oversees service as warm and informative as any in Europe.
Designed to be enjoyed a la carte or as a tasting, staff communicating with each guest to determine likes and preferences before Riccardo chooses the menu, it is amist modern-classical décor that time passes quickly thanks to stories and reminiscing over bites such as Baccala Cannoli or pudding-soft Foccacina.
Eclectic but distinctly Italian, warm Bread and Grissini flavored with Olives present throughout, late-Winter’s “Fluctuations” begins with a veil of Cuttlefish overlying soft Rice in Eel Butter before moving onward to Oysters perfumed by Pine and Buttered Spaghetti made anything but simple by crispy puffed Yeast.
An admirer of all forms of art, books and statues surrounding a piano overlooking the water, Risotto comes splashed on a white canvas with Red Berries prior to intentionally sticky Pennoni meant to be dipped in an emulsion of Uni.
Lucky next to receive 84-hour steamed Pasta allowed to ferment for a year, its texture quite distinct beneath Foie Gras and Pigeon Ragu, Chard offers a bit of levity before moving onward to faultless Sweetbreads sharing the spotlight with Honey and Mustard.
Known best for Cacio e Pepe cooked in a Pig’s Bladder, a blind method of preparation that leaves Pasta firmer than al dente but beautifully matched to simple toppings, tender Beef comes with accents of Duck Fat and Pork Lard plus the bold skins of Sheep’s Cheese.
Offering each guest a different dessert, on this day Chocolate toasted to taste of Burnt Milk and Caramelized Pears with Pumpkin Seed Praline, those with capacity should inquire about adding a laminated “King Size” Cannoncino perfumed by Moroccan Spices with Apricots.
Always pushing forward, with textures and flavors inspiring questions, the story ends with Torrone clipped tableside and a quick tour further seeking to educate those who already think they understand.
Part of Bologna for nearly fifty years Pasticceria D’Azeglio is named after the street it inhabits, early opening hours on Monday making it an ideal option for nearby businesses in one of the city’s most upscale shopping districts.
Rustic and small without a Bar like so many Italian Pastry Shops, though Espresso shots are still pulled quick, guests arriving early will find good diversity including Cornetti stuffed with flavored Cream and Viennoiserie including a Raisin coil topped in Frosting.
Priced lower than nearby competition, a particularly boozy Baba just €3, look for Sfogliatelle tucked away amidst everything else and if fortune smiles it will be warm with shattering layers yielding Ricotta and Semolina with Citrus inside.
Opened in 1907 by Giuseppe Gamberini Cafe Pasticceria Gamberini is the oldest Pastry Shop in Bologna, chandeliers and an ornate ceiling positioned over glass cases including heritage recipes plus a bar quick to prepare Espresso or an Aperol Spritz for waiting customers.
Now managed by Antonella Conti and Paolo Maino, a seamless transition that occurred in 2005, guests arriving early can expect to find Brioche still hot with spots of Raisins while Rome’s Maritazzo is offered with Custard or Cream.
Updated somewhat to sell items such as Red Velvet Cake and Brownies it is for €3.00 that the Rice Pie delivers three complex bites while Cornetti with a choice of fillings sees Pistachio a little too sweet but otherwise enjoyable.
