Taking a cue from Pink Box and Donut Mania, continued popularity in one neighborhood prompting expansion to another, it was midday on Wednesday that a stop was made at Coco Donuts on South Rainbow, the selection somewhat picked over by two o’clock but the quality still mostly good with severs still smiling.
Originally visited over three years ago, the earliest days of the Summerlin location showing quality classics and a Croissant-Donut that rated well in a group taste-off several months later , Coco Donuts #2 is located in a small strip mall on the west side of Rainbow Boulevard across from Gelatology, the layout long, narrow and still lacking for decoration with fried Dough lining a countertop to left in a variety of styles.
Hand cutting each Donut and closing when the day’s batch is gone, a format similar to all but Sin City’s 24-hour joints, it was with a grand tally of $8.75 that eight selections were taken to a small inside table for enjoyment, first bites of the Apple Fritter unfortunately showing signs of sitting too long as the interior was quite soggy while a follow-up Yeasted Ring with Blueberry glaze was soft and fluffy, though the translucent lacquer’s flavor tasted very artificial.
Personally fancying Cake Donuts to Raised ones, the Chocolate-base a bit dry but both the Red Velvet and Vanilla with shiny Strawberry frosting moist and crumbly, Coco’s Cruller showed textbook technique with custardy insides unfortunately unavailable simply glazed at such a late hour, the Old Fashioned and Buttermilk Bar also compromised by frosting with the Maple faring better than Chocolate and both bases slightly tangy, smooth and well-crafted.
THREE STARS: Likely compromised by the time of day or a new location, dated recollection of the store on West Cheyenne Avenue painting a prettier picture, Coco is nonetheless a good choice in a neighborhood with no lack of sweets but surprisingly few Donuts, an earlier visit at a later date hopeful to show signs of improvement.
RECOMMENDED: Glazed Red Velvet, Buttermilk Bar and Old Fashioned without Frosting.
AVOID: The Chocolate base was far too dry and all but the Maple Frosting were thick and artificial tasting with a slightly waxy linger.
TIP: 6a – 7p (or sold out) on weekdays, 6a to 2p on Weekends.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Tteok Manduguk – Soup with Rice Cakes and Dumplings in Beef Stock
Not one for all-you-can-eat restaurants, especially the sort where “cooking your own food” is considered the norm, it was with hopes of dispelling such misconceptions that a seat was taken at Goong Korean BBQ on South Rainbow, two friends with far more experience at such places providing great conversation and a whole lot of education during the meal’s nearly-two hour span.
Considered to be one of the city’s more authentic experiences, shoes removed and decorative-pads provided for seating at one of several gas-fired grilltops, those arriving at Goong during lunch hours are likely to be struck by the tranquility of a space devoid of televisions or elaborate decorations, the clean lines complimented by a light soundtrack as servers provide menus and beverages while speaking in hushed tones.
Offering several lunch specials alongside the dinner menu, a la carte Meats as well as party-sized Combos offered alongside a variety of Soups and Rice plates, it was with both Korean and English descriptions that choices spread across several pages, the ordering deferred to others with some input as to a Rice Cake Soup and Pork Jowls that sounded particularly interesting.
Partially familiar with the format, a plethora of small bowls and plates quickly flooding the table prior to the first Meat selection, it was with small bites tasted of each Banchan that the palate was prepared for the flavors to follow, the Fish Cakes and Spicy Eggplant particularly memorable as makeshift appetizers while choices like the pickled Daikon, Onions and Soy Noodles were better utilized with the Proteins, or at least as palate cleansers between bites.
Turning focus now to the grill, a total of three Meats ordered with a second helping of Galbi proving far superior to the sinewy first round, those making their first visit to Goong would be well advised to order at least one plate of the thinly-sliced Chadolbagi that cooks through in under two-minutes as well as a Pork plate, the glass cases in back proudly displaying the sort of quality worth paying for as each is sliced to order in a nothing-to-hide way.
Not one for really hot stuff, even Goong’s Kimchee a bit too heated if not taken with some rice, additional plates tasted included the Cold Buckwheat Noodle Salad served with Soy and lava-red Sauce as well as the comforting Dolsot Bibimbap, a large bowl of Tteok Manduguk presented last with Salt and Pepper by a server who all but admitted gauging his table’s “whiteness” even though the overstuffed Dumplings in Beef Stock were already savory enough.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: An enjoyable meal as much for the company as for the food, Goong Korean BBQ proved a nice introduction to a new genre, though the service did feel slightly judgmental throughout the course of the afternoon while prices trend higher than would be anticipated for several of the dinner Rice Bowls, Soups and Casseroles. Also, Mochi is not dessert…
RECCOMMENDED: Chadolbagi, Dolsot Bibimbap, Tteok Manduguk, Fish Cakes, Spicy Eggplant.
AVOID: Galbi is so heavily marinated that it loses its “beefiness.” The Soba Noodles, also, just feel like filler.
TIP: Several lunch-only deals are offered for those dining on a budget. Check Social Media for menus as there is no website.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Cold Pressed Coffee Panna Cotta – Huckleberry, Brown Butter, Lavender Ice Cream
Cheesecake Three Ways – Blue, Brie, Aged Cheddar
Salted Almond Truffle Tart – Chocolate Butter
Foie Gras Martini – Truffle Cotton Candy
Macarons – Yuzu, Coffee and Mint
Having never visited either of Charlie Palmer’s Las Vegas restaurants, but having enjoyed the cooking of Chef John Church at three different venues since becoming a resident, it was with great excitement that I entered Aureole at Mandalay Bay with a friend to check out a brand new concept, Chef Palmer in attendance throughout the evening but the menu itself very much the work of one of Las Vegas’ most respected local talents.
Long considered one of the city’s most eye-catching rooms, the expansive dining area spreading out behind an enormous wine-vault where ‘angels’ rise upward to snag bottles throughout the night, “Aureole 2.0” looks to reclaim relevance through renovation in a city where many would simply blow-up the idea and rebuild from scratch, the prices and ideas still ‘fine dining,’ though the menu format has shifted to a small-and-large-plates format with sections divided into root, surf and ranch.
Dining at room’s center, the space quiet until approximately eight o’clock when several larger parties were seated almost simultaneously, it was with carte blanche given to Chef Church that the night unfolded, Chef Palmer stopping by each table several times to make sure all were enjoying dinner while the MGM Vice President of Dining Operations was also in attendance throughout the meal.
Admittedly known to Johnny, both present at the table having enjoyed dinner with him at 35 Steaks + Martinis earlier this year, it was with VIP-treatment that the meal got underway just minutes past 6pm, a bright herbal Cocktail suggested by the server providing a refreshing way to start as course one included housemade Bread service plus two Vegetarian plates, the Mediterranean trio a great choice for sharing given its classic flavors and large portion while the Raclette Fondue is an equally sizable ‘must-order’ with a creamy pool of Cheese spread beneath crisp Vegetables from the Intuitive Forager.
Presenting two Salads before progressing to ‘surf,’ the Beet Salad par for the course while a made-to-order Caesar was upgraded from great to exceptional by way of a liberal tableside shaving of Black Truffles, it was at the recommendation of a young female Sommelier that plates five through eight were paired to a crisp yet fruity Riesling, Chef Church’s Lion Fish Ceviche making great use of the invasive with light spice and bold aromatics while the raw Kampachi was beautifully painted with Citrus alongside pickled and earthy flavors.
Having seen a similar Beef and Octopus preparation at The Hard Rock, this version equally good but essentially no different save for the plating, Aureole’s Crab Roll was unfortunately in desperate need of some Salt to highlight the mild ingredients, a follow-up trio of Chicken Oysters, a Potato Raviolo and Gruyere-stuffed Meatballs suffering in no such way as both the tender make-shift Peirogi in Tomato Sauce and the IKEA-inspired orbs bested their ethnic counterparts by several degrees.
Unknowingly not yet at the half-way mark, a total of twenty-five menu items sent out during a four hour stay, plates twelve and thirteen offered Palmer’s Saffron Risotto chock-full of fresh Seafood alongside a $110 Sea Bass, the mostly-deboned fish presented whole with crispy-Skin up beneath a spritz of Lemon and spoonfuls of piquant green Sauce.
Continually treated to flawless service, drinks promptly filled and plates cleared as finished, heavier Meats found themselves complimented by a glass of 2012 Chateau de Beaucastel, the Sheep Ricotta Tortellini amongst Sin City’s best Winter dishes with Duck Confit and Parmesan Emulsion ready to carry the Black Truffle aromatics while the White Asparagus dish does similar with a bit of spiciness and the richness of one of Artisanal Farm’s intense yellow Eggs.
Pleased by the Ribeye, but wowed by a Christmas Special of fork-tender Veal Wellington and golden Bread Pudding that would be well served to join the menu in full-time form, another stunner from the Root menu was the Vegan-friendly Roasted Spaghetti Squash dotted in Beets, Nuts and Pepitas with a pleasant top-note added by crumbles of non-dairy Truffle ‘Cheese.’
At this point wishing one or two more guests would join the table, a short break and some Espresso thankfully providing a bit of time to digest, Dessert was no less a show than the savories leading up to it, the artisanal Cheese selection or Brie, Cheddar and Blue-Cheesecakes perfectly-tailored to wine-centric patrons – with the latter really quite special – while the Crostata and Tart tended more classic; a Foie Gras Martini referencing Chef Church’s time at Andre’s as the Coffee Panna Cotta provided the perfect combination of silky texture and mild sweetness at the end of a meal that redefined decadence.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: No doubt pricy compared to the rest of Mandalay Bay, the average check even without wine likely to set all but the most selective back over one-hundred dollars each, Chef Church and his team have breathed new life into a restaurant long forgotten by many, all but one of over two-dozen plates speaking to quality ingredients and skilled craftsmanship with plenty of options for both Omnivores and Vegans – from the convention crowd and those more adventurous.
RECOMMENDED: Raclette Fondue, Kona Kampachi Crudo, Beef Cheek Potato Raviolo, Veta La Palma Sea Bass, Sheep Ricotta Tortellini, Roasted Spaghetti Squash, Cheesecake Three Ways, Apple, Oats & Persimmon Crostata. (Veal Wellington, if available.)
AVOID: “California” Crab Roll was underseasoned and excessively priced compared to other choices while the Foie Gras Martini is definitely an acquired taste, good for fans of Duck Liver but likely to turn others away.
TIP: Suggested Wine pairings are offered at two-different price-points for each and every course via numbers on the menu, though Sommeliers are readily available to offer additional advice. A tasting menu is also coming soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Le Joue se Veau – Braised Veal Cheeks, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Cauliflower Puree, Perigord Black Truffles, Sauce Perigord
Apple Tart Tatin – Cinnamon, White Chocolate Sphere
Chocolat Bisous – Stoli Vanil, Valrhona Chocolate, Vanilla Ice Cream, Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur, Praline Rim
Grand Marnier Souffle – Crème Anglaise
Mignardises – Raspberry, Lemon and Chocolate Macaron, Strawberry Pate de Fruit, Raspberry Marshmallows
Chocolates
Sitting down at the bar at Le Cirque for my second consecutive Christmas, this year celebrated with two close friends, one would be hard-pressed to name a better climate for a bit of Holiday indulgence, General Manager Ivo Angelov ever-present and ready to assure a memorable experience for all in attendance.
Always a festive space, all the more with the big-top currently featuring a Christmas Tree and Wreathes plus overhead music ranging from Deck The Halls to Blue Christmas, Holiday diners on December 25th were offered two menus including Prix Fixe or a Black Truffle option, the kitchen taking the liberty to present our table with seven courses plus Amuse, Palate Cleanser and Mignardises from the latter over the course of more than three hours.
Seeing several familiar faces, both the servers and a few dedicated patrons stopping in to celebrate in style, dinner began with an amuse of Rambutan filled with Salmon Mousse on a lighted backdrop, the pairing of ingredients unexpected by complimentary while a follow-up of Artichokes and Avocados formed a smooth base carrying the aroma of Black Truffles atop a bright Dijon Vinaigrette.
Jokingly serving “Eggs I cannot make at home” next, the silky-scramble almost as smooth as Instant Potatoes beneath a liberal shaving of Perigord Black Truffles, it was onward to the Sunchoke Soup from last visit that the evening marched forth, the creamy Potage in an artistic cup themed in the forest every bit as good as before while Le Cirque’s classic Risotto was pure and perfect, the result of great ingredients, time and an attentive eye in the kitchen.
Continuing to show off new plates, serviceware and even napkins, a buttery Scallop with texturally similar Abalone Mushrooms arriving next at the center of a black vessel imported from Girona, braised Veal Cheeks once again were presented in a long metal box of contrasting blacks and whites, the fork-tender Meat beneath a crust of Black Truffles considerably rich even before the addition of Chef Bergerhausen’s peerless Sauce Perigord.
Switching up the palate cleanser, a sphere of Apples and Cinnamon bursting in the mouth as the bartender prepared a potent yet smooth-drinking Chocolat Bisous, Christmas saw Le Cirque change up its reference standard Chocolate Souffle for a Grand Marnier version that is somehow even taller and fluffier, the light notes of Orange lingering after each bite as a table of Mignardises and box of Chocolates sent guests off into the evening feeling much merrier than when they got there.
FIVE STARS: Playing host to four great meals in 2016, that in October my favorite in Las Vegas this year and this one not far behind, Le Cirque continues to perform on a World-class level to an international audience no matter which night or occasion, “the best just keep getting better,” really the only way to describe the men and women working both front of house and in the kitchen.
RECOMMENDED: Brouillade d’Oeufs a la Truffe Blanche, Soup Savoyarde aux Topinambours, Le Joue se Veau, Chocolat Bisous, Grand Marnier Souffle
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Perigord Black Truffle Season runs through early March and dinner featuring the plates listed above can be had at varying price-points ranging from 3 to 8 courses.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Creating new Holiday traditions, year two of Christmas brunch at Hexx with Le Cirque planned for dinner; it was as a party of three that seats were taken in the large dining room directly across from Bellagio, a four course meal prepared by Matt Piekarski with excellent service, as always, from the team led by Ari Stotland.
Hearing that the patio was a bit chilly, even tall heating posts no match for 42°F with a light breeze, it was at a sizable four-top at room’s center that the group sat as a motley looking fellow across the aisle boomed loud, yet pleasant, fueled by Bottomless Mimosas – the spirit of Christmas trumpeted overhead with Seasonal music replacing the typical IHeartRadio stuff while the NBA played on television.
Making one special request, but otherwise ordering a la carte, it was after greetings from Ari followed by Chef Piekarski that the meal got underway, the requisite Fruit Plate starting things off with a wider selection than ever while three half-portions of Chilaquiles came through creamy yet crunchy with Jalapenos along the side allowing everyone to adjust the heat to their tastes.
Previously passing on the Breakfast Sandwich, but inspired by a beautiful one landing at a neighboring table, the Ham and Cheese Croissant at Hexx has undergone a substantial upgrade by way of pastries from Bouchon Bakery plus White Cheddar now nearing 5-years old, the off-menu Carrot Cake Pancakes made via Special Request still Sin City’s best while the Chocolate Waffle ate something like a Lava Cake with crisp edges and a soft, gooey center.
Never one to pass on desserts, particularly with Hexx Chocolate and Pastry Chef Carol Garcia involved, it was with two Cookies plus one of Bouchon’s Almond Croissants that the meal moved on, the “Cookie” idea kicked up several notches by a double layer of crispy Almond Flour wrapped around Chocolate Mousse plus a Blondie that was more like a “Pizookie” with 72% Chocolate chunks infusing the buttery Cake beneath Whipped Cream and High Road’s frozen spin on America’s favorite Cookie.
FIVE STARS: Understandably not a local’s spot, the prices and scene tailored to the Strip, Hexx remains one of the rare Las Vegas Boulevard properties where there is far more than meets the eye in terms of the concept, the service always good while the kitchen continues to execute on a level far higher than it needs to.
RECOMMENDED: Fruit Plate, Ham and Cheese Croissant, Carrot Cake Pancakes, Warm Cookie Sundae.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: The online Dessert Menu is woefully out of date. Stop in to see what Chef Garcia and her team are up to.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Glazed Ham with Pineapple
Ponche Navideno (not pictured)
Marshmallow Salad
In keeping with the theme of documenting all meals enjoyed outside the home, or at least those not prepared by my own hands, Christmas Eve 2016 was a notable departure from lower-middle class Midwestern Roots and European Ancestry as I sat down with the Martinez family for a night of presents, games and food.
Contributing nothing self-made, that deferred to the experts at CRAFTkitchen, Rosallie, Peridot Sweets and Gelatology, thanks to all who contributed to a very pleasant meal that marks my first outside the restaurant confines since Thanksgiving 2012.
Cheesecake Mousse – ‘Nilla Crumbles, Raspberry Compote, White Chocolate, Flowers
Hearing that Herringbone had reached a new level in recent months, but unable to find a chance to visit during weeks prior, it was finally for Christmas Eve Brunch that a party of two sat down in the airy space on the second floor of Aria, Chef Geno Bernardo’s Carte Blanche menu unequivocally impressive, as too was service throughout the afternoon.
Greeted with a glass of Champagne at a sizable four-top, the Low-Boy/High-Top configuration now improved by several standard tables, it was with the NFL on-screen and a DJ spinning mid-tempo that Chef Bernardo stopped by to say hello and describe his plan, a strong focus on Crab for the lady at the table capturing her heart from the get-go as an Iced platter of Shellfish arrived with two thick Legs plus a Lobster, the Mexican-style Shrimp Cocktail also right up her ally while the sweet Kushi Oysters and plump Stallions also impressed along with their trio of Sauces.
Blessed by some of the best products in the city, Gino’s long-tenure and established connections to Fish Mongers as well as local Farms helping the restaurant in ways that a “Celebrity Chef” name never will, following courses diverged from the typical brunch to present an Avocado Salad with Lump Crab and Salsa, the forearm sized Prawn reminiscent of the good days at Bartolotta with even more intrigue added by the Tomatillo and bright Lemon condiments.
Continuing the off-menu tasting, many of the recipes served with stories of the Chef’s heritage, a big bowl of Tomato Stew quickly found thickness in a mixture of two types of Eggs plus Mozzarella and Pork Ragu, the bowl of Manilla Clams and Dungeness Crab similar yet different as brine blended with sweetness while the Naked Cowboy Rockefeller improved of a classic with Sauce Béarnaise in a sidecar.
Flipping back to the traditional Brunch menu temporarily, a half-portion of Crab Cakes Benedict served with Spicy Hollandaise and Crispy Leeks that would also be seen with two tender Lamb Chops later, the Bacon & Egg Ravioli as well as pan seared Potato Dumplings showed the Chef’s Pasta skills have not diminished since his days at Nove, the Gem Salad and Wild Caught Hamachi both simple and perfect with fragrant Red Mullet Bottarga a treat previously unseen.
Back to menu for a sweet finale, the games and DJ both winding down but a trickle of traffic still coming in, Herringbone’s Ricotta Pancakes continue to make one wonder why other places cannot balance Citrus and Chocolate with such subtlety, the White Chocolate Brioche with Bananas and Nutella not quite as custardy as some may prefer while the “Cheescake” really did eat like a airy Mousse, especially when compared to the thick and creamy Milkshake.
FIVE STARS: Admitting that more than 1/3 of the plates served are not currently available on either the brunch or dinner menu, but that several are considered works in progress to potentially debut soon, Herringbone continues to fly under the radar as one of Las Vegas’ best spots for Seafood thanks to Chef Bernardo’s sourcing and creativity while the service also outshines many places considered more ‘refined’ and formal.
RECOMMENDED: Madagascar Prawn, Manilla Clams and Dungeness Crab, Pan Seared Gnocchi, Wild Caught Hamachi, Orange Ricotta Chocolate Chip Pancakes.
AVOID: French Toast could use a bit more time in the custard.
TIP: Friends and fans of Geno will be proud to know that the Chef will soon be traveling to take the Las Vegas Herringbone menu to Santa Monica as well as the islands, Sin City’s temporary loss once again a strong testament to the quality of the Chefs cooking in our community.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Samples – Salted Caramel, Pumpkin Loaf Rocky Road with Pecans, Apple Cobbler, Cinnamon Apple Cake, Rum Raisin
2.5 Liters of Cinnamon Churro Gelato
Three weeks in a row, all delicious and served with a smile, a Christmas Eve stop at Gelatology was spurred specifically by a desire to share Desyree’s creativity with my Christmas Eve hosts – her Cinnamon Churro Gelato a spot-on representation of the Mexican Donut in creamy, frozen form while a traditional Panettone was just as impressive, the springy egg bread just barely sweetened by pockets of candied Fruit.
FIVE STARS: Nothing has changed but the flavors, and that is a very good thing.
RECOMMENDED: Cinnamon Churro Gelato, Pumpkin Loaf Rocky Road with Pecans Gelato, Rum Raisin Gelato.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: To-go trays are available 2.5 Liters for $30 and 5 Liters for $54.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
An oft overlooked bakery on South Rainbow, owner Tiffany Jones bulk of business based on Custom Cakes, Restaurant Supply and Corporate Accounts, Peridot Sweets remains a go-to for those who know the value scratch baking compared to the boxed alternative as Chef Jones and her team create both beautiful classics and a handful of novel flavors.
Closed on Christmas Eve, but happy to provide a variety of Holiday Treats for that night’s family gathering, it was after enjoying Breakfast with Mrs. Jones that the large box was refrigerated until later that evening, the 24+ hours since creation unfortunately turning both Boston Cream Pie and Banana Caramel Cupcakes into mush while the Red Velvet and Chocolate Raspberry fared far better as a result of their frosting, the Cream Cheese in particular quite impressive with just enough sugar to offset the sour.
Using a far better grade of Butter than big-name retailers, the Chocolate too an upgrade from anything likely to be found in the kitchen of nearby competition, additional great bites were found in jammy Thumbprints as well as Christmas Cutouts that practically melted on the tongue, the Bark studded in red Craisins and green Pistachios as pretty as it was delicious while the Candies and dipped Sandwich Cookies were crowd pleasers for those looking for something small and sweet to end the meal.
FOUR STARS: Battling constraints of location as well as kitchen size, the lack of walk-in traffic only allowing Jones and Team to offer a limited number of retail products on-site each day, Peridot Sweets remains the West Side go-to for custom work with flavors and quality to match each creation’s beauty.
Quiche Tartiflette – Tartiflette Cheese, Bacon, Red Potatoes, Sautéed Onions
12” Buche de Noel – Half Praline, Half Mocha
Stopping in for a classic Buttercream Buche de Noel, no shiny ganache or dense Cake anywhere in site, Rosallie on Christmas Eve proved every bit as lovely as any other day, the small Café on South Rainbow surprisingly busy while several folks stopped by to pick up their holiday treats.
Dining with another local baker, conversation about the recent growth of the market and population trends always forever a challenge in transient Sin City, it was with a creamy French Vanilla Latte that the morning got started, four of Chef Pluvinet’s classic French Pastries as good as ever, the Raisin Snail overlooked over the last few visits but even better than remembered as the sugar glaze had a texture almost like that of Molasses.
Opting to taste the last of three new Tartines, gooey Brie and Housemade Onion Jam playing off one another as diced tomatoes added a vibrant acidity, the Tartiflette Quiche remains arguably the city’s best with clean edges and a soft Custard filled with sliced Potatoes and Bacon, the Sautéed a bit more mild in sweetness than the Jam but far more fragrant.
Taking the Buche home for later, the large log decorated with Bells, Santa, Gifts and Candy Canes almost “too cute to eat” per my hosts, it should go without saying that once the log was cut no one had any issues with indulging as one half rooted sugary nut flavors in a moist white cake while the other had light notes of coffee infused into the airy Buttercream and Chocolate.
FIVE STARS: Nothing has changed and as 2017 approaches all of Las Vegas should be thankful for Jonathan’s little gem of a restaurant on South Rainbow.
Calexico – Avion Anejo Tequila, Borghetti Coffee Liqueur, Licor 43, Campari, Aztec Chocolate Bitter, Orange Bitters, Australian Bitters and Cinnamon
Pear Budino – Whiskey Butterscotch and Poached Pears
Bananas Foster Bomboloni – Fresh Bananas and Huckleberry Reduction
Chocolate Bacon Cake – Caramel Buttercream and Candied Bacon
Blood Orange Cheesecake – Toasted Almonds and Edible Flowers
Italian Butter Cookies – Raisins
Dressed in a festive spirit for Christmas weekend, even Bodacious the Bull getting in on the action, it was with three friends all marking their first visit that a Holiday feast was enjoyed at Carnevino, former Chef and now-head-of-everything-Batali-in-Las-Vegas Nicole Brisson arranging a menu and even taking some time out of her jammed-packed schedule to stop by and pay the table a visit.
Currently in laid-back mode for the slow season, a brief window for America’s best Steakhouse that will see them back at full capacity shortly after New Year’s Day, it was once again with service from Captain Andrew overseeing a large team that the four-course degustation unfolded, a few surprises offered along the way further cementing beliefs that there may be no other venue in the world doing this sort of volume with results consistently excellent.
Starting off with a few cocktails, Bartender David “Coop” Cooper taking some well-deserved time off but undoubtedly involved in such complex creations, it was with traditional Gougeres and the impeccable Bread service that an order of crispy Potato Wedges were presented, the gravy-boat of bloomy Béarnaise making one wonder why this combination had not been assembled prior and something to be filed away for all future visits.
Starting off slowly while trying to limit the warm Bread and Lardo, a task never accomplished in the past and again put on indefinite hold, course one started with stretchy Stracciatella with cracked Pepper alongside a Beet and Citrus Salad with Prosciutto, the Little Gem Lettuce from the Intuitive Forager also finding itself amidst Pork, Cheese and Fruit while a golden Duck Egg sat atop toasty Brioche with Maple Glazed Belly and bright Vinaigrette.
Ever underrated for the Pasta program, perhaps not as exciting as the city’s best Italian restaurants but never dull in the least, Mario’s famous Beef Cheek Ravioli proved every bit as good as previous visits while the housemade Black Spaghetti formed an al dente tangle beneath lump Crab and Caperberries, the off-menu Squacquerone Ravioli brightened with Lemon as the Capellacci di Zucca made its way down the hall from B&B Ristorante to rouse fond memories of the Pumpkin Lune at Babbo in Greenwich Village.
In some ways all a tease leading up to the big reveal, the tableside carving of Meats as much about educating as it is about the show, “Las Vegas’ #1 Steak” remains rich and tender in the form of a lightly crusted Bone-In Ribeye while Lamb from a farm doing what they do since the 1800s is as fatty as it is grassy, the nearly two-inch New York Strip Riserva that began dry-aging on 2/6/2016 a still-indescribable flavor with top notes of Truffle and a butter-knife soft texture.
Always a bit polarized by the sides at Carnevino, the willingness to eschew simple things like Macaroni and Cheese or a Baked Potato for more interesting farm-based ideas sometimes not fitting for the mixed company of less-traveled diners, the current offerings of Italian Broccoli with Pork and Garlic as well as the hearty Sardinian Pasta are more than worthwhile while a special request for Gnocchi to be served with this course saw tender Potato Dumplings almost as smooth as the Egg and Mascarpone Mash with Pork.
Never one to take a pass on Dessert, the work of Ashley Costa and her team always tailored to the season as well as the Italian Steakhouse concept, a significant upgrade now sees Carnevino using La Colombe instead of Lavazza for Coffee service, a double Espresso next to the spicy Calexico both perfect for ideas beautifying rustic, the Chocolate Bacon Cake far lighter than the ingredients would indicate while all three Fruit offerings approached their ideas by a different angle, the Bombolini stuffed to bursting with boozy Banana filling while Kerry Clasby’s Blood Oranges soaked a soft Ricotta Cheesecake that is a strong contender for best in its genre…but still not as delicious as the sticky-sweet Budino with warm Pears, a quenelle of Cream and Butterscotch.
FIVE STARS: Visiting the restaurant for the first time on a truly slow night, only perhaps 25% of the seats filled, Carnevino somehow managed to outperform its already strong reputation for both veterans and first timers, the quality of the product never in question while the lower volume made the service even more capable than ever to truly shine.
RECOMMENDED: Truth Lies Low, Cesare’s ‘Tuscan Fries’ with Porcini Béarnaise, Duck Egg, Beef Cheek Ravioli, 90 Day Dry-Aged Bone-In Ribeye, Fregula, Budino, Bomboloni.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Both the Cheesecake and Capellacci di Zucca were offered as off-menu items, though the latter can be ordered on the current B&B Ristorante menu.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Fallen Chocolate Cake – Meringue and Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
Spiced Pear Berliners – Salty Caramel Ice Cream
Classic Crème Brûlée – Berries
Apple Pie –Caramelized in Golden Pastry, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Apricot Pate de Fruit, Hazelnut Crunch, Nougat, Butter Mints
With Mark Purdy now working alongside Joe Marsco to launch Andre’s Bistro & Bar in the wake of Andre Rochat’s iconic restaurant at the Monte Carlo unfortunately shuttering earlier this year, it was just past sunset on Saturday that dinner was served in Alize’s gorgeous dining room at the top of The Palms, Chef Chris Bulen moving several stories up and bringing the already great food to a higher level, as well.
One of Las Vegas’ most impressive views, the whole Strip spread-out with lights twinkling in the distance, it was at one of the coveted windowside four-tops that the party was sat, the floor to ceiling windows complimenting romantic lighting and white tablecloths as service from a team captained by Gabriel Fontenier assured an added degree of elegance.
Requesting the menu be served Carte Blanche, Chef Bulen at this point as trusted a toque as any in town, dainty amuses including a creamy Sweet Corn Panna Cotta kicked off what would eventually be unveiled as a 6-course tasting comprised of no less than twenty-one individual plates.
Serving every dish ‘family style,’ most courses arriving in threes, proper plates commenced by way of a roasted Beet Salad not unlike that at 35 Steaks + Martinis as a result of the Kataifi crusted Goat Cheese while thinly-shaved Bison Carpaccio melted on the tongue despite its leanness, a completely different sort of smoothness found in the Foie Gras Torchon with Figs, Pineapple and Balsamic ready to be spread on buttered Toast points.
More than a little impressed by the details and balance of round one, course two approached some of Rochat’s more classical French plates with an air of refinement despite bold ingredients and portions big enough to share, the sautéed Duck Liver undoubtedly one of the city’s most unique presentations atop a Fruit-filled Scone with sweetened Crème Fraiche while the Escargot and off-menu Sweetbreads riffed on traditional preparations with added elegance.
Anticipating an entrée-course at this time, but instead distinctly told that the third round was fish before meats, it was with good timing that more of Tammy Alana’s housemade bread was brought forth, the gluten-free Rice Roll a perfect means to sop up the broth from Chef Bulen’s Shrimp Bouillabaisse while the meaty Monkfish with Caviar and Rochat’s famous Lobster Thermidor were expectedly great.
At this point starting to feel the effects of such a heavy meal, yet unable to resist either the rosy Duck Breast atop a Galette of Bacon and Endive or the ruby red Venison with soft Turnips in a pool of Black Currant Juice, it was with small hunks of eight Cheeses straight from the cart that the meal moved onward, the Mimolette aged to perfect crumbly sweetness while the Roquefort popped with bloomy Mushroom notes, particularly when paired with Fruit.
Taking an Eleven Madison Park tradition with tableside Coffee via Siphon, no accoutrements necessary but nonetheless welcomed as heavy Cream and Cookies, a small palate cleanser reminiscent of the beach transitioned palates sweet, Chef Alana flooding the table with a half-dozen choices including a whimsical Hot Chocolate Soufflé with Marshmallow Cream plus classic Crème Brûlée, Chocolate Fondant and Tiramisu plus Spiced Pear German Donuts and a caramelized Apple Pie beneath a net of golden Pastry.
FIVE STARS: Without a doubt one of the best Las Vegas Meals of 2016, Chris Bulen’s classical skills honed at Andre’s now cast in a more modern light high above Sin City, Alize remains an underappreciated gem in a city dominated by Celebrity Chefs, though with parent group Stacked Hospitality now venturing Off-Strip perhaps that situation is about to change.
AVOID: Passing on the Gluten-Free Rice Roll, easily the best of its kind.
TIP: Reservations are now available for New Years Eve at Alize, the Palms location ideal for locals who don’t want to be stuck on the Strip with a vantage of the fireworks that is tough to beat.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Samples – Pistachio, Lemon Meringue Pie, Gingerbread Toffee with Licorice, Cinnamon Tres Leches with Honey Comb, Strawberry Red Velvet with Chocolate Cake, Maria Cookie with Peppermint and Whoppers, Thai Tea with Biscoff, Berry Smoothie with Tajin
Small Cinnamon Tres Leches with Honey Comb, Strawberry Red Velvet with Chocolate Cake
Small Gingerbread Toffee with Licorice, Maria Cookie with Peppermint and Whoppers
Nutella Panettone
Still not having tasted a winning submission to Gelatology’s “Suggest a Flavor” contest earlier this year, though a portion of the idea was thoroughly enjoyed a week prior in the form of Desyree’s Honeycomb Brittle, it was with a promise that the owner herself would be in Saturday afternoon that a stop was made, a whole bunch of new Gelato flavors to taste with innovation that continues to amaze.
Making way to South Rainbow Boulevard after lunch, full but focused on the idea that Ice Cream only fills in the cracks, it was a cheerful Mrs. Alberganti who greeted patrons at the door, sample after sample presented as the holidays were discussed, and a smile always present on one of the Las Vegas food industry’s most universally beloved faces.
Intrigued by stories of her inspiration, the light Licorice infused Gingerbread Toffee so awash in spicy aromatics that it makes both seasonal Frosted Houses and Cookie Men pale in comparison, even better bites were found in the Maria Cookie with Peppermint and Whoppers based on a confection found in Southern California while the Cinnamon Tres Leches with Honey Comb came not from my brain, but from a Cake that still stands out as my favorite dessert of the 2016 from Super Chunk in Scottsdale.
Enjoying the mellow fruit notes of “Red Velvet with Chocolate Cake,” the typical artificial colors replaced by fresh Strawberries while Lemon Meringue Pie came complete with buttery crust and airy Egg-White pockets, it was after more talk and well-wishes for the Holidays that way was made to the street, a wispy Panettone with a hefty core of pure Nutella taken home for later indulgence.
FIVE STARS: It can be counted on one hand how often this blog has two entries for the same place in back-to-back weeks – yet even in a city with plenty of choices, why accept anything less than the best?
RECOMMENDED: Nutella Panettone, Cinnamon Tres Leches with Honey Comb, Strawberry Red Velvet with Chocolate Cake, Maria Cookie with Peppermint and Whoppers, Lemon Meringue Pie.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: In addition to Traditional, Fruit or Nutella Panettone currently available in-store or for pre-order at $15 a loaf, Desyree also revealed that she is now responsible for several of the dessert selections at Boca Park Sambalatte for those reluctant to make the trip South.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding with Crème Anglaise
Chocolate Buche de Noel
Seasonal Gift Basket with CRAFTkitchen Blend Coffee, Chewy Granola, White Chocolate Nut Clusters, Dark Chocolate Nut Clusters, Peppermint Bark, English Toffee
Crossing the one year mark and still packing the place with patrons from Henderson as well as Las Vegas, Jaret Blinn’s ever-changing weekend brunch at CRAFTkitchen proves difficult to resist even for those as far away as the city’s northwest reaches, this Saturday and Sunday’s Italian theme seeing the Chef reference everything from Philadelphia’s *better* famous Sandwich to recipes from his mother’s kitchen.
Arriving later than usual, minutes past noon finding only a few chairs unfilled and Monkey Bread already sold out, it was as a duo that Brunch was enjoyed in a windowside booth with service from a vibrant young staff that continues to impress by way of its professionalism, the kitchen given carte-blanche to send out whatever was felt best with a focus on the weekly specials.
Chatting with the Chef about any number of things as he stopped by intermittently to describe plates, his passion for family and local community always on the tip of his tongue, it was with pastries warm from the oven that the meal got started, the Pop Tart better than recalled from last time with a whole lot of Fruit wrapped in crisp Pastry while the Sticky Bun and Almond Kouign Amann both remain unparalleled on the local level.
Now offering Mimosas and Bloody Marys alongside the house-blend Coffee, a bottomless option passed in favor of a single Pomegranate infused sparkler, first plates consisted of Smoked Salmon atop Blinn’s fresh-baked Pretzel Roll with Sliced Tomato, a Schmear and crispy Capers, the Pancakes to follow as light as Angel Food Cake beneath lightly sugared Strawberries and enough Vanilla Bean Whipped Cream to make any additional topping unnecessary.
Mixing old and new, salty and sweet, a follow-up duo saw the kitchen send forth spicy Pork Sausage nestled in a pot of Scrambled Eggs with Cheese and Onions atop pan-fried Fingerlings, the robust flavors well suited to the crisp air of mid-December while Cranberry White Chocolate French Toast offered three Custard-rich slices with Craisins sprinkled amidst the Crème Anglise atop it.
Remiss to have not yet tried CRAFTkitchen’s Sweet Potato Fries, the Maple Bacon Aioli served with it as silky smooth as it is complex in flavor profile, the weekend special riff on DiNic’s classic Sandwich from Reading Terminal Market is the sort of thing the restaurant should strongly consider adding full time, the melty Provolone and golden Sesame Bun alone turning heads and rousing envy from two women pretending to still be satisfied with sharing Quiche and a Salad.
Not to say Jaret’s crustless Quiche and well-composed piles of Greens are to be overlooked, but far more interested in seeing how the Chef might play homage to his Mother’s Chicken Cacciatore, those interested in one of the city’s best deals for rustic Italian cooking would be well-advised to be on the lookout next time as the Breaded Chicken Breast was perfectly stewed in Mushroom-rich Tomato Sauce atop a creamy bed of Mascarpone Polenta.
Interesting to see the restaurant doing better Dessert business with smaller portions at a lower cost, the idea of something small and sweet to finish still a foreign one, it was with an all-in approach that spoons and forks plunged into steamy Bread Pudding richly imbued with Chocolate and topped in Crème Anglaise while the full-size Buche de Noel, available also in $2.95 slices, was every bit as delicious as it was beautiful to look at.
FIVE STARS: Better and better with each visit, the teamwork and passion of everyone involved palpable in the food as well as the vibe, CRAFTkitchen manages what more “famous” brunches like those at Bouchon or Mon Ami Gabi cannot by being family-owned, small and flexible, each week offering new temptations whether one veers light, savory and even Gluten-free or far more indulgent.
TIP: Currently offering individual seasonal treats in addition to the top-tier Chewy Granola, those still in need of a locally-crafted Christmas gift for the epicure in their life may be interested in checking out CRAFTkitchen’s Seasonal Gift Basket with CRAFTkitchen Blend Coffee, Chewy Granola, White Chocolate Nut Clusters, Dark Chocolate Nut Clusters, Peppermint Bark and English Toffee in one of two elegant boxes.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Snoop Doughgy Doughg – Long John with Chocolate Icing and Filled with Bavarian Cream
Marilyn Mondough – Red Velvet Cake Donut with Strawberry Cream Ring
David Doughy – Yeast Donut with Salted Caramel Icing, Cream Cheese and Chocolate Drizzle
Matt Frank Dough – Chocolate Cake Donut dipped in Chocolate Icing with German Chocolate Frosting
Beyonce Doughles Lemonade – Yeast Bismarck filled with Lemon Filling and Lemon Frosting
Recently opened in the same shopping plaza as Al’s Donuts, a location directly across Maryland Parkway from the UNLV Student Union seemingly the perfect spot for 24/7 fried treats, Crunch Donut Factory brings its concept west from Arlington Texas and with clever celebrity names for each of their concoctions the results are mostly impressive.
Not exactly as ‘artisan’ as Donut Bar pretends, yet not as slipshod as a place like Voodoo Doughnuts in Portland, Crunch Donut Factory on Harmon Avenue splits the difference between tradition and modernity with a bevy of Cake, Yeast and Filled choices topped with simple glaze or many preconceived combinations, an added bonus offered by way of building one’s own at the Crunch Creation Station.
Decorated in pink and white stripes with green detailing, each booth bearing a logo with a bizarre Donut man smiling for selfies in back, service at Crunch just prior to 6:30am on Saturday came by way of a chipper youngster, gleefully shouting greetings about Crunch Time to each patron who enters.
Perusing the glass case, Donuts fried throughout the day to replenish supply as needed, most options range anywhere from $2-$3, a cheaper-by-the-dozen-or-half deal yielding six carefully boxed rings plus a Fritter for a pre-tax cost of just thirteen dollars.
Chuckling at the seemingly nonsensical references involved in some of the choices, though Betty White makes perfect sense in the setting of a soft and rich Old Fashioned while the knockoff of Voodoo’s “Blazer Blunt” based on Snoop Dogg proved superior to the original despite Vanilla Cream only filling a quarter of it, “David Doughy” was lost on me both in terms of taste as well as title as the ‘yeasted’ base was far too dense, particularly with the glob of unsweetened Cream Cheese filling.
Pun-infesting an Apple-heavy Fritter that could have stood to be crispier with Meet Joe Black as a whole lot of sour Citrus filled a fluffy pocket topped with Lemon frosting for Mrs. Jay-Z the best bites from Crunch Donut Factory came by way of their Cocoa-heavy Cake choices, the Marilyn Mondough accenting moist Red Velvet with Strawberry Cream while Matt Frank Dough was intense and indulgent with Darker Chocolate first shellacked in Chocolate Icing and then slathered in German Chocolate Frosting.
FOUR STARS: Anticipating this opening for some time, the signage replacing a Shave Ice spot several months ago, Crunch Donut Factory brings good Donuts to a neighborhood in desperate need of them, a strong competitor to Donut Mania or Pink Box with the ability to customize to ones liking presenting something entirely new to the Las Vegas area.
RECOMMENDED: Marilyn Mondough, Matt Frank Dough, Bet Me While.
AVOID: David Doughy.
TIP: 24/7 with ordering and delivery online via UberEats.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Fancied by a few local fine dining Chefs as their go-to for the authentic flavors of Western Mexico, it was just past eight o’clock on Friday night that the dining room at Carnitas y Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara was found sparsely populated, a team of two servers plus two cooks making up for limited English skills with some truly delicious food and excellent service to match it.
Decorated with the restaurant’s logo, maps of Mexico and some handmade pottery for sale near the door, Carnitas y Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara features table service both indoors and al fresco from a carefully curated menu written only in Spanish, the focus on braised Meats including several styles of Goat noteworthy, though the restaurant’s eponymous Sandwich is undoubtedly promoted as a “must have” item.
Doing the small things that matter to stand out, Breads and Tortillas both made on-site with all Meats braised in-house daily, those looking for variety are invited to try any of the restaurant’s big flavors by way of Tacos with 1-lb portions also offered alongside Tortillas for larger parties, a total of $35 after tax and tip yielding a substantial amount of food with an additional $7.50 added for an oversized Michelada.
Waiting just a few minutes for the bulk of an order, items rolling out as ready from the kitchen, first bites of a Pork Skin Taco were fatty and succulent without a lot of acid to wash out the funkiness while a follow-up Fried Taco stuffed with ground Beef was unfortunately a bit oily, the Carrot slice on top packing a big wallop of heat while the pickled Onions, sliced Radish and Slaw helped to balance out the piquant orange Sauce beneath it.
Ready to tuck into the sopping wet Sandwich just as more Tacos arrived, each divided in two and lightly topped with Lime, Onions or one of two Salsas provided in squeeze bottles, one would be hard-pressed to decide whether the Barbacoa Goat or Al Pastor Pork offered more flavor, the Carne Asada unfortunately a bit too dry, perhaps as a result of the late time of arrival.
Finally getting around the Torta, slow cooked hunks of Pork literally fork-tender on a bun somewhat akin to Baguette that was still crunchy despite being fully saturated with spicy Tomato Sauce, suffice it to say that the specialty from Jalisco is every bit worth its name on the marquee, a traditional dessert from the region one part Flan and one part Crème Brûlée with just enough sugar to compliment the egginess.
FOUR STARS: Not exactly the sort of place likely to receive critical attention, both the location and understated signage directed mostly at its local population, Carnitas y Tortas Ahogadas Guadalajara is a strong reminder of the rich Ethnic heritage found just a few miles East of Las Vegas Boulevard – the sort of place where low prices pair with a lot of passion to give diners an experience tourists would never imagine exist in a city known for $1,000 bottle service.
TIP: Open 8:30am to 9:00pm daily except on Thursdays when the kitchen closes at four o’clock. Pozole offered daily with Menudo on Weekends. BOGO Tortas on Tuesday, too!
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Balls to the Wall – Meatballs, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Sunday Gravy, Basil
White Pie – Garlic, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Basil, Black Pepper
Hog Heaven – BBQ Pulled Pork, Onions
Sausage and Pepperoni – Mozzarella, Tomato Sauce
Replacing a few recent flops with the sort of Las Vegas born idea that seems almost too good to not have been attempted yet it was with ample expectations that Evel Pie officially welcomed patrons for Friday’s Grand Opening, all signs indicating that The Golden Tiki’s Branden Powers may just have built himself another big hit.
Co-created with the son of daredevil Evel Knievel and featuring just the right amount of kitsch and era appropriate music to reference an early eighties Manhattan, it was with several media-types having already tweeted pictures that guests were invited to taste pies crafted by local Pizza-maker Vincent Rotolo and a staff manning ovens that already seem well seasoned, the choice to go by the Slice or order a whole Pie accompanied by Salads, occasional Italian Specialties, Calzones and a sizable list of Drinks.
Decorated in everything from arcade games and taxidermy to old photographs of its namesake soaring on his motorcycle, service was a bit of a mish-mash given the nature of the evening, seating limited and tables awash in empty pans, cups and paper plates as admission tickets were traded for Beer or Pizza Slices that eventually led to a rather substantial wait.
Focusing squarely on the product, several cheap Domestic Brews served alongside some more unique Pale Ales and Stouts, four Slices were tasted fresh from a line of ovens, the simple Cheese Slice passed up but bound to be a hit as part of a $5 Beer and Slice Combination while a Pizza topped in Rattlesnake Sausage was not made available during this portion of the night.
Using gas ovens to generate a crisp Crust with good char and just the right amount of stretch, Evel Pie references the “New York” style slice shop in terms of both its shape and foldability, the toppings making a big leap in terms of both price as well as quality with first bites of the classic Sausage and Pepperoni showing a lightly acidic sauce beneath stretchy Mozzarella that complimented, rather than blunting the pleasantly spiced Meats.
Not as sold on “Hog Heaven,” the Barbeque Sauce a little too sweet and thus overwhelming everything from the Onions to the crispy Dough, a far better taste was found amidst a White Pie pairing puddles of Ricotta to fragrant Basil and light Garlic while the humorously titled “Balls to the Wall” put Sunday Gravy in proper context with Mozzarella and Ricotta plus housemade Meatballs that walked a fine line between hearty and soft.
N/A: Unfair to rate the overall experience based on a Media Event, the crowd too large and service just out of the gate, Chef Rotolo is turning out some great Pies in an area desperate for inspired grab n’ go Streetfood while Powers and his team have created the sort of environment where downtown visitors as well as denizens may want to kick back and stay awhile.
RECOMMENDED: White Pie, Balls to the Wall.
Avoid: Hog Heaven.
TIP: 11a-2a Sunday through Tuesday and until four in the morning on Friday or Saturday nights.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Shisito Rellano – Five Cheese Stuffing, Cast Iron Cooked
Barley and Lentil – Cacio e Pepe Style
Originally getting a glimpse of Christopher Palmeri’s vision for Naked City Tavern over a year ago with plates exploring the boundaries of “bar food” at Naked City on Paradise, the full concept unfurled during a Chef Series event for over a dozen patrons several months later, it has been a pleasure to see the 24/7 spot on South Pecos continue to develop ever since its July 2016 opening, an invitation to be one of the first to experience the new Winter Chef’s menu truly an honor this Monday evening.
Still one of the hardest working Chefs in Sin City, his Buffalo-roots ever apparent as the Holiday décor and sounds of the Ravens and Patriots on Monday Night Football did little to hide a Bills mural or T-shirts in Blue and Red, it was at a long table with six other guests that myself and a Naked City First-timer sat for a multi-course meal the likes of which I’ve not seen in such a setting since Carlo Mirarchi’s early Roberta’s days, Manager Robert Chaney proving a gracious host with the assistance of two young ladies.
Long ago garnering national attention for food far better than it needed to be at Naked City Pizza Shop at Moondoggies, a combination of talent and tenacity plus a little bit of luck going a long way to allow for expansion including Naked City Tavern and a recent agreement to be the official Pizza purveyor for Las Vegas Motor Speedway, it was with a Cocktail of bottled Autumn that the meal got started, a Charcuterie Board offering good bang for the buck with fragrant and snappy Sausage served alongside stuffed Cherry Peppers, House-cured Pickles plus a duo of Artisanal Foods imported Meats and Cheeses.
Proudly listing his purveyors on a chalkboard in the dining room, something surely not seen at other all-day-and-all-night joints in town, course two featured a creamy ball of Burrata showered with Black Truffles at the center of a pool of crushed Tomatoes and Pesto, the Crawfish ‘Popcorn’ as clever as it was tasty with lightly battered Tails topped in Butter Powder alongside housemade Hot Sauce certainly not for the faint of heart or stomach.
No doubt a hearty seasonal menu, the Halibut a lone exception as each flaky Filet is lightly coated in just enough Bread Crumbs to sop up a touch of the vibrant Citrus Sauce, Palmeri’s Game Hen Cassoulet is only marred by the fact that the Garlic would have been better served roasted and smashed than as whole Cloves, the Shrimp and Grits, on the other hand, absolutely flawless with a smooth texture resulting from slow-cooking a perfect backdrop to tender Shrimp along with housemade Bacon and pan-seared Mushrooms.
Seeing other diners slowing down, even though the richest plates were yet to come, those favoring fork-tender Short Rib need look no further than Naked City Tavern’s Wellington, the Wild Mushroom Duxelle a bit salty but well matched by Bay Spinach, Sea Beans and the Red Wine Demi while the Ragout of Goat Osso Bucco layered nicely with rolled pasta despite a few bones found amidst the Garden-fresh Red Sauce.
Rounding out the main course with three sides, Palmeri’s time spent studying “Chef of the Century” Joel Robuchon clearly not wasted as evidenced by the creamy Potatoes topped in a knob of housemade Truffle Butter, another sophisticated bite is found in the soft Lentils served “Cacio e Pepe” style while the stuffed Shisitos were a Russian Roulette sort of dish with some blazing while others were quite mild.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Still holding out for a truly excellent dessert, but otherwise completely impressed by the constant creativity from Christopher and his team, Naked City Tavern’s recent nod as “Best Bar Food” was perhaps the most hilarious understatement of 2016, the plates being sent out far better than several ‘fine dining establishments’ both on and off The Strip, with better ingredients at a lower price point.
AVOID: Look out for bones in the Osso Bucco and for whole cloves of Garlic in the Cassoulet.
TIP: There is a Duck Confit Lasagna on the menu. I do remember making that recommendation when Chris put up a social media post looking for ideas. Just sayin’. Menu goes live 12/13/16.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Say what you will about Hemant Kishore’s recent career trajectory, from early-morning hours baking at PublicUS to a high-end catering service delivering nutritious boxed lunches to clients focused on their health, there is little doubt that the man puts a lot of passion and integrity into every single project he approaches, Toddy Shop by The 6Pack Chef at Inn Zone on Rainbow hoping to entirely reinterpret Sin City’s idea of what constitutes “Indian” Food.
Not exactly the most likely location, a University of Michigan Bar that rivals any in Ann Arbor for the veracity of its fans, it was after a somewhat unfortunate incident that a repeat attempt was made to visit the small dining area tucked away next to a tiny kitchen where the young Chef from Southern India sets up each evening, the well-culled menu playing of the roadside shops and comfort dishes of Kishore’s youth.
Dining with a friend who has possibly visited every Indian restaurant in the 702, our palates often matching as relates to most things besides his disproportionately high tolerance of heat, it was in passing a television area completely decked out in Maize and Blue that we were greeted by Hemant’s partner at the small kitchen window before taking a seat in the small dining area, music from a nearby Jukebox playing at bar-loud levels with everything from rock to country as the basketball Wolverines were being trounced on a nearby screen by the UCLA Bruins.
Looking over a menu of all-day bar-food plus several Toddy Shop nightly specials, it was with a bit of sadness for the Chef that a patron actually had the nerve to ask whether he could bring in food from a nearby Mexican fast-food restaurant, the typical Inn Zone client most certainly not a foodie, let alone the sort to appreciate the quality or skill in the preparation of the restaurant-within-a-bar’s Farmer’s Market ingredients.
Eventually deciding on four plates, each more than sizable enough to share amongst a party of three or four, it was with a slow roll-out that each dish arrived at a four-top soon to be filled to capacity, the Kothu Parotta offering a whole lot of heat as Chili-rubbed beef was tossed into a stir-fry of Vegetables and flaky flatbread that soaked up a lot of flavor from the pan juices plus an assortment of housemade Chips that were tasty on their own, but even better when used as delivery devices for bites from the bowl with which they were mixed.
Having previously tasted The 6Pack Chef’s Biriyani at the Chef Series Potluck, here even better in a warm stone pot and certainly the most recognizable plate on a menu of dishes likely unfamiliar to all but descendants of India or those exceedingly well-traveled, Indian Chopsuey came across as an almost fusion-y plate of crispy Noodles amidst fragrant Gravy and Baby Bok Choy, the Birds Eye Chili melding nicely with a fried egg that mixed to leave each bite glistening.
Given a hard time by the bartender for only ordering two glasses of water, a comment questioning my manhood brushed off by a patron of the bar who referred to the Inn Zone employee as an A**hole, it was with a “poor man’s” dish of Kappa and Konj that dinner concluded, the Turmeric Mashed Tapioca an absolute stunning flavor when mixed with India’s version of the trinity, a few Shrimp cooked Masala style plus Desiccated Coconut that tempered the heat while giving the whole bowl a sweet and nutty perfume that lingered.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Setting aside my alma matter and the manner in which staff and patrons feel fit to treat their guests, Toddy Shop by the 6Pack Chef is a dessert or two short of being “destination” Indian food for those willing to explore the boundaries of more traditional fare.
RECOMMENDED: Kappa and Konj, Kothu Parotta, Indian Chopsuey.
AVOID: Wearing anything Scarlet, Grey, Green, White or other than Maize and Gold here during Football Season.
TIP: Offering delivery by way of Bite Squad, another worthy tidbit is Chef Kishore’s drunken Holiday Cake currently available for pre-order.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Samples – Cookies and Cream, Nutella Bomboloni, Chicken Cup o’ Noodle, Cotija and Corn, Pistachio
Small Figs and Balsamic, Cinnamon Churro / Small Cinnamon Churro / Small Cookies and Cream
Honey Comb Brittle
Warm Chocolate Chip Toffee Cookie
Warm Nutella Bomboloni
Although it appears Desyree has been getting more well-deserved time off than usual lately, two previous weekend visits finding the shop manned by one of her ever-pleasant assistants, Gelatology continues to shine as brightly today as it did when originally opening on South Rainbow, the flavors as well as the textures easily better than any other in Sin City with creativity that warrants national acclaim.
Still an anticipated daily fixture on Social Media, Chef Alberganti’s live-stream of unique flavors set to music with an occasional view of Baked Goods in progress always enticing, as well, it was to several new flavors that patrons were treated on Saturday just after opening, the Chicken Cup o’ Noodle a spot-on riff of something that seems as though it could have only arisen from a drunken bar bet while the Cinnamon Churro and Nutella Bomboloni played on recent baking escapades, the sort of thing not uncommonly seen in fine dining these days.
Eventually making tough choices, the temptation always present to dramatically over-order, it was with a blend of Churros to Balsamic and Figs that tastes trended with beautiful complementation, a fresh-baked Chocolate Chip Toffee Cookie still featuring slightly molten morsels while the Honey Comb Brittle shattered with a whole lot of flavor, dissolving slowly into a sticky Caramel-like substance that threatens to loosen any fillings that might be present.
Sitting and enjoying the work of a place that continues to innovate and evolve even though any semblance of local competition exists far in the rearview, it was at the behest of the young clerk that the table taste-test three fresh-from-the-fryer Bombolini in a small clamshell, the flavor almost identical to that of the frozen concoction previously tested and completely oilless beneath Granulated Sugar harboring a smooth Hazelnut and Chocolate center.
FIVE STARS: Simply the best. Visit, Sample and Smile.
