Birdie’s Original – Fried Chicken Breast Sandwich, Cole Slaw, Buttermilk Ranch Mayo, Tilamook Cheddar & Cured Pickles
Birdie’s Breakfast Sandwich – Over Easy Egg, Bacon, Fried Chicken Tenders, Apple Wood Smoked Bacon, Tillamook Cheddar, Birdie’s Special Sauce
Horchata Twist with Dulce de Leche Glaze
Strawberry White Chocolate
Bananas Foster with Caramel and Banana Chips
Pumpkin Spice with Candied Pepitas
Recently opened in Downtown Los Angeles, a location at 314 West Olympic Blvd and 24-hour weekends making the small shop as popular with the late night crowd as it is with those stopping in for fresh Donuts for the office as early as 7am on weekdays, Birdies brings the concept of Chicken and Donuts to the city that made Chicken and Waffles a “thing” back in the late 90s…and they do so in a very good way.
Owned by Chef Jason Harley, his former Mabel’s generally well regarded but never embraced in a way suited to long-term profitability, Birdies originally opened to improve DTLA’s Doughnut and Coffee scene to a level on par with artisans in Venice and Santa Monica, the Chicken added as a result of the Chef’s famous Fried Bird and now ordered almost as frequently as the Yeasted or Cake rings crafted from Organic Flour and Cage-Free Eggs in a variety of flavors that change daily.
Probably best described as trendy-but-not-hipster, the soundtrack more Katy Perry than Black Keys on a Wednesday night preceding Thanksgiving with the Kings playing at Staples Center, it was with samples of all flavors offered that our group of three was greeted, an explanation that everything is made fresh as dictated by the day’s demand leading to a six-piece order followed by a ten-minute wait during which four Doughnuts were devoured.
Offering few Classics but several novelties, the texture of yeasted selections not-unlike the springy Brioche of Blue Star, bites of Cinnamon French Toast and Pistachio Lemon Thyme were both pleasant, if not particularly memorable, the twisted Horchata with Salty Caramel a far more compelling bite, as too was the all-natural riff on Dunkin’s Pink Classic while the best bites were found in a pocket featuring boozed-up Banana Pudding and light Whipped Cream decorated with dehydrated Fruit chips.
Happy to see that Cake Donuts also fare nicely, the seasonal Pumpkin Spice only marred by the decision to favor eyes over mouth by placing a single dollop of cream on the ring, it was just as the last bites were being tasted that two stacked Sandwiches emerged from the kitchen, the Original placing a juicy Breast beneath Cole Slaw tinged in Buttermilk plus a slice of Cheddar and Housemade Pickles while the all-day Breakfast Sandwich undoubtedly required a fork + knife approach with hand-breaded Chicken Tenders and Bacon competing for the spotlight beneath melted Cheese, an Over Easy Egg and piquant “Special Sauce.”
Butter Burger – Boursin, Cheddar, Lettuce, Tomato, Spicy Tater Tots
Pair of Pear – Whistling Andy Pink Peppercorn & Pear Gin, St. George Spice Pear Liquor, Charred Rosemary, Fresh Lemon, Vanilla
Bourbon Fudge Brownie – Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream
Glazed Donut Bread Pudding – Three Rum Caramel, Vanilla Crème Anglaise
Bartlett Pear Tart – St. George Spiced Pear Meringue
The best restaurants are those that keep us coming back for more, and so it was on Saturday night when a party of five sat down besides the bar at Carson Kitchen, Chef John Courtney showing off a few modern classics alongside what the late-Fall/Winter 2016 menu has to offer.
Bustling during the afternoon and still as vibrant a nighttime scene as ever, Matthew Harwell overseeing a cocktail program that excels by way of bright flavors with the sort of complexity that costs $4-8 more on The Strip, it was with warm greetings from severs as well as the Chef himself that a carte blanche tasting got started, Radiohead making the first of several overhead appearances as all partook in the elegant Purple Haze that somehow manages to turn a hefty pour of Whisky into something accessible and fruit forward.
Making a few requests for favorite plates, more than half the table marking this as their first visit to 124 South 6th Street, there is no denying that Cory Harwell and the late Kerry Simon’s Fried Chicken Skins are a best of their kind rendition after recently experiencing inferior takes in both Belgium and New Orleans, the BBQ Burnt Ends a carryover from Summer that continues to stand out no matter what season while “Turkey Day” Pasta Salad eats far lighter than one might expect considering the Stuffing and Holiday inspiration.
Impressed by the clever “Pig in a Duvet,” the spicy Pork Sausage with a snappy casing complimented by puff pastry atop housemade Mustard infused by Chiles and Citrus, it was with share plates replaced that herbaceous Project Idaho landed to pair with two of Carson Kitchen’s oft-lamented Flatbreads, both options this time showing far better than the majority prior as forest green Pesto exuded freshness beneath a blend of Mozzarella, Taso and three Egg Yolks while the Eggplant Ragu and Housemade Ricotta better allowed diners to notice a Crust that comes through with enhanced smoke and flexibility, the result of a less overworked dough that allows for improved leavening.
Happy to see one of Carson Kitchen’s classic Cocktails for the first time in several visits, the gin-based Magarian an ideal sipping beverage for refreshing the palate between heavier bites, Chefs Courtney and Harwell next introduced the restaurants first soup, a Tomato Bisque that likens the sort of Sauce described as “Fra Diavolo” in its flavor with a creamy base that seems almost *too* obvious as the gooey Short Rib Grilled Cheese’s dipping counterpart.
Telling the table of a Calabrian Chile harvest that will likely see both Carson Kitchen and another upcoming Simon Hospitality Group project steeped in spice for months to come, housemade Black Spaghetti with Calamari and Olive Tapenade was a briny burst of flavor not recommendable for the timid – those sorts still not cheated for flavor in any way with other menu choices including Mediterranean Mashed Potatoes, an extra Cheesy Burger or a bone-in Pear and Pomegranate piece if Pork that rivals the city’s best despite its modest cost.
Unable to finish the hearty Mac n’ Cheese if room was to be saved for dessert, it was with about 1/3 reluctantly returned to the kitchen that the “Pair of Pear” transitioned palates to something sweeter, the cocktail’s combination of Fruit, fragrance and spice conspiring with the Meringue-topped Pear Tart in every manner imaginable, Coffee the more natural go-to for those choosing the classic Bourbon Fudge Brownie or the Glazed Donut Bread Pudding that seems to get better with each visit.
FIVE STARS: Not content to let the DTLV landmark rest on its laurels, even with the menu at Standard & Pour taking on similar concepts in a far more challenging part of town, Carson Kitchen continues to succeed where many others struggle by never doing anything the ‘easy’ way or taking their customers for granted, a strong testament to the passion its ownership as well as the talent filling both the kitchen and front of house.
RECOMMENDED: The Classics are there for a reason, so for now focus on Turkey Day, Green Eggs & Ham Flatbread, Pork Chop, Squid Ink Spaghetti and the Bartlett Pear Tart.
AVOID: Some in the group felt the Butter Burger to have “too much” cheese while others called Purple Haze “too sweet.” I do not understand either phrase, but considered it worth mentioning for lack of any other complaints amongst five people from a wide range of ages and birthplaces.
TIP: Look for more news in early 2017 from Simon Hospitality Group and once you’ve made your way though Carson Kitchen’s current season grab a designated driver and head down to Henderson to see what Standard & Pour has to offer.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Baker’s Block – Raspberry Lambic Cocoa Nib Caramel Corn, Cherry Beer Marshmallow, Brown Ale Crème Brulee, Chocolate Stout Trifle, Apple Hand Pie, Nutella Cookie, Banoffee Tartlet
One of those rare restaurants in Las Vegas that has remained successful for years without constant critical praise or the name of some absentee Celebrity Chef above the door, it was with desserts in mind that a party of three sat down inside Public House at The Venetian to watch the Buckeyes beat Sparty on Saturday, a few of Chef Anthony Meidenbauer’s classics plus one that soon might be joining a full complement of desserts from Rebecca Bills, the Corporate Executive Pastry Chef for all of Block16 Hospitality.
Visited twice in as many days during a 2012 Christmas Vacation, the extensive beer list luring in a friend while Seared Foie Gras, a potted Egg dish and Bread Pudding all proved to be delicious during a long weekend of football, little has changed in the décor as suited Monkeys smile next to clever sayings, medium-volume rock music plays overhead with plenty of Television featuring games from every conference.
Every bit the Gastropub it set out to be, the menu morphing slightly from four years prior though several long-held favorites still stand out, it was with Coffee and Water plus excellent service that the meal took place over the course of nearly one hundred minutes, an Assistant General Manager named Bernard looking over things while Chef Bills took time to explain a bit of her training as well as many of the restaurant group’s seasonal dishes.
Choosing to start savory, the housemade Charcuterie a well-culled collection including rich and chunky Pork Pate next to creamy Duck Rillettes plus a block of silky Liver atop toasted Brioche, more Duck was offered by way of one of Sin City’s very best plates of Poutine, the handcut Fries crisp enough to stand up to Stout Gravy added tableside plus Confit, a fried Egg and Cheese Curds so fresh that they are still squeaky.
Intrigued by “Buffalo Style” Ribs, the tender meat slipping effortlessly from the bone with a fiery hit of acid that found it’s foil in Blue Cheese Sauce, Chef Meidenbauer’s Pub Burger succeeds on a level not unexpected for the man responsible for Holstein’s at The Cosmopolitain, the grind of the Grass Fed Beef smooth despite being well packed beneath a layer of Gruyere, cooked Tomatoes and assertive Bacon Marmalade.
Truly rolling out the red carpet for pastries, all five of Chef Bills’ current collection arriving with more Coffee plus the sharable $17 “Baker’s Board” that presents pint-size variations of each plus fragrant Caramel Popcorn, a Chocolate covered Marshmallow plus Nutella Sandwich Cookie, the toughest question would be which to omit if one is unwilling or unable to taste all of them, the Chocolate Stout Layer Cake probably the safest answer as it is every bit as rich as it sounds and best shared by all but the most ardent Chocoholic.
Happy to see the Irish Coffee Cheesecake eat lighter than average while three piping hot Hand Pies are picture-perfect with caramelized grains of Sugar overlying a flaky crust alongside airy Cream all boozed up for dipping, fans of Beer will be impressed by the way in which Rebecca’s Crème Brûlée manages to be both hoppy and sweet simultaneously with herbal notes added by toasted Poundcake, the Banoffee Parfait picking up where Carson Kitchen left off last Winter and perhaps even upping the ante by way of the Pretzel Crumble, Banana-Brown Sugar Jam and stick-a-spoon-up-straight Vanilla Pudding.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Impressed four years ago by such an adventurous Gastropub on the Strip, some notable additions to the local dining scene having caught up and perhaps surpassed Public House in terms of creativity as well as value, it is relevant to point out that Block16 Hospitality has continued to push the envelope in an era where so many others seem content to rest on old accolades, the dessert menu here in many ways as good as those at Yardbird or Delmonico while the Beer list, Burger and Poutine are remain a consistent focal point for good reason.
RECOMMENDED: Pub Burger, Poutine, Duck Rillette, Baker’s Block…plus an extra Banana Banoffee Parfait because sharing is silly.
AVOID: If space is a consideration, the Chocolate Cake is not really any better or different than many others, though it is still quite good. The Baker’s Board solves this problem as the Trifle version is far lighter with the same general flavor.
TIP: Open 11a-11p daily, those looking for a casual Thanksgiving may wish to take a look at the online Thanksgiving menu offered in addition, as opposed to ‘in place of,’ the other delicious a la carte options.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Replacing Stewart & Ogden, S&O or whatever the restaurant was last called with its revolving door of Chefs, Downtown Grand opted to completely reinvent their 24/7 eatery into a concept built on American Classics and Live Music, the 34th Floor Hospitality restaurant featuring Wisconsin native Scott Commings recently opened under the name Freedom Beat.
Intended as both a restaurant and entertainment venue, acoustic music playing nightly with local and national names like Friday’s Jack Ingram show generating a lively crowd, Freedom Beat sits just off the gaming floor while still offering enough cover to give it the ‘feel’ of a locals spot with food and beverage better than it needs to be, the menu offering a wide range of styles stretching from Coast-to-Coast with some true Great Lakes influence in between.
Dining as a group of six, the Hell’s Kitchen Champion Chef friends of one in the party, it was with several plates ordered and a few sent out from the kitchen that the meal took place, a total of fifteen menu items tasted along with several beverages including the pink-yet-potent Bathtub Gin Daisy and a too-thick-for-a-straw Oreo Milkshake.
Not particularly a place for those counting calories, though a few Salads and small plates are available to cater to various dietary needs, round one of the Freedom Beat smorgasbord consisted of a half-dozen appetizers ranging from loaded Fries that some felt were too sweet on top of being quite hefty, the Cheese and Scallion Tots and Chicken Fried Bacon each far better despite being deep-fried – the former packing a whole lot of flavor into each crispy nugget while the latter took great care to make sure that the Pork Belly itself was well-cooked but still silky smooth beneath the herb-infused breading.
Deciding to smoke Chicken Wings and Drumsticks rather than fry them, the resulting bites amongst the best in the city with a piquant glaze that is not unnecessarily hot, flamed Oysters were a favorite amongst many at the table as the briny Bivalves found balance in Garlic Butter cooked thick with Cheese, the Mexican Street Corn another rave that allowed late season sweetness to dance hand-in-hand with gentle heat.
Told that the Barbeque represented neither Carolina nor Texas, but intrigued by the idea nonetheless, Chef Commings’ ‘Full Smoke’ Platter featuring Brisket, Pork Shoulder and Hot Links goes to show that given the right expectations roasted Meat is rarely a bad thing, no particular ‘style’ embodied except that of Freedom Beat and all the better for it, the Fried Chicken “Our Way” also representing a slightly different look at its concept with the well-brined bird itself quite flavorful, as was the batter, though one felt it was too thinly applied.
Not really exploring much of the Breakfast Menu, drop-Biscuits fluffy and rife with Butter while the Toad in the Well was an Instagram eye-catcher with a poached Egg nestled in a hollow carved out of French Toast wrapped around Black Forrest Ham with pure Maple Syrup on the side, all agreed that the ground base of an “IPA Burger” would benefit from more fat and flavor, though the toppings were quite tasty, a battered plank of Walleye taking both the Chef and more than one guest back to their childhoods with flaky fish and golden breading plus all the requisite sides.
Not looking to reinvent the wheel anywhere, particularly with desserts, Freedom Beat offers four options to those looking for something sweet to send them on their way, the fried Twinkies and Funnel Cake both Fair-Food favorites well done without being too oily while the S’Mores Donut saw glazed rings hemisected and toasted around Marshmallows and Chocolate with Graham Cracker Crumble, the Skillet Pie a la Mode definitely the most labor intensive and well-crafted option, particularly topped with a melted slice of Cheddar Cheese.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Charging slightly lower prices than similar stops on The Strip, $12 Cocktails and a good Beer List a bonus for those choosing to imbibe, Freedom Beat puts its own spin on Americana with good food in an environment that could certainly be successful under the right circumstances, though challenges will undoubtedly be presented by a hotel that has yet to define it’s particular ‘type’ of client.
RECOMMENDED: Chicken Fried Bacon, Smoked Wings, Grilled Corn ‘Elote’ Style, Ale Battered Walleye, Toad in the Well, Skillet Apple Pie with Cheddar.
AVOID: IPA Burger, Loaded Hand-cut Fries.
TIP: Open 24/7 with the entertainment schedule posted online, Valet Parking free with a $10 receipt or validation at the Hostess Stand.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Greek Trio – Spanakopita, Mousaka, and Pastitsio with Basmati Rice
Rice Pudding with Cinnamon
Baklava
One of two locations for a restaurant frequently named Best Greek Food by a notable local publication, Market Grille Café on West Lake Meade Boulevard was a spontaneous selection for Friday dinner after alternative plans fell through for unrelated reasons, the space whose name has fooled more than one into assuming it some sort of grocery store serving up a great dinner for three at a price far lower than much of its competition.
Located in the same shopping center as Panera, The Cupcakery and several other stores, entry to Market Grille Café sees patrons greeted by an open kitchen and homey confines as the menu spins Mediterranean by way of Greece and Italy, a smaller lunch variety and happy hour specials offered for those dining earlier in the day while more substantial options are reserved for full table service later in the evening.
Certainly more Athenian than Roman, though the similarities between dishes like Mousaka and Lasagna should seem fairly obvious to most, it was with an in-training server that the evening got under way as Iced Tea and Water were served to those at the table, the place fairly busy for 7:00 on a Saturday evening with all sorts of ages, genders and races represented in the crowd.
Encouraged to order in courses, most everything but the warmed Pita reportedly made in-house, it was with $5.50 small orders of Hummus next to creamy Eggplant puree with Garlic that the meal got started, the former a bit thinner than most of those previously tasted but at the same time full of flavor while the Babaganoush was far more chunky with a slight bit of smokiness left to linger in the mouth.
Not particularly wanting to over-order, the low prices actually quite deceiving for large plates when compared to the likes of Hummus Factory or Mykonos in Sun City, entrees were limited to just a trio of Greek favorites plus a few ‘sides’ including tender Gyro Meat and a quartet of “Greek Meatballs” (as described on the menu,) the Golfball sized Falafel our meal’s only dud as ground Chickpea Fritters lacked any particular flavor on their own, save for that of the Oil.
Impressed by both the layered eggplant Mousaka with rich Beef Ragu, Spanakopita also quite nice with sheets of Phyllo interspersed by Spinach and springy Cheese, Pastitsio unfortunately seemed to be a bit overwhelmed with Cinnamon that completely overwhelmed both the Noodles and the other ingredients, far better bites found in two desserts including a generous slice of Baklava with plenty of Nuts and Honey plus a bowl of chilled Rice Pudding that embraced the grains texture rather than acting to completely hide it.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: One of the more traditional Mediterranean menus in town, the limited Italian options seemingly just there because they are easy to make from ingredients commonly used in Greek cuisine, Market Grille Café offers good food at a fair price with plenty of vegetarian or more healthful options in an atmosphere that family friendly, but still nice enough to qualify for date night.
Based out of St. George Utah, but recently expanding to store number two in the large shopping plaza at 4624 West Sahara Avenue, The Sugar Cookie brings their signature style of a buttery, soft base topped with several style of icing to a city where the only other cookie-specific shops tend to focus on sandwiching them around Ice Cream, tastes of fifteen of the eatery’s twenty current options almost universally excellent at not-too-high a price.
Focusing mostly on the eponymous style of cookie, a few jammy Shortbreads also offered alongside Snickerdoodles, chewy Peanut Butter or Molasses rounds and a thick seasonal Pumpkin Chocolate Chip variety, all twelve frosted flavors can be had for under $10 by way of mini-combo pack, the larger selections still substantially less than Panera or Kneaders despite a fresh baked texture that is better than both.
Friendly in service, the walls still minimally decorated given the shop’s recent launch, it was a zippy sample of smooth lemon cream and a spicy Molasses morsel that conversation was held with the shop’s owner about the tried and true concept of doing one thing better than all the competition, a tab of just $14 sending me on my way to indulge at home with Coffee, though the store does offer a few small tables for those wishing to enjoy Cookies there.
Already having a good idea of what was to follow, the miniature cookies at best two-bites, but at the same time less than a mouthful in whole, bites of both the sugar-coated Snickerdoodle and Peanut Butter puddle showed a crisp edge with a nearly pudding soft center full of flavor amidst substantial sweetness, the one complaint about The Sugar Cookie potentially being this unfortunate inattention to nuance.
Doing best to taste various flavors in logical sequence, a total of two bases with the Red Velvet virtually identical to Chocolate as a fudgey sort Milk Chocolate tone is added to the buttery white Flour original, it is in the Icing that The Sugar Cookie differentiates itself from the competition as everything from Fruit to Cream Cheese is thickly piped atop the Cookies in dollops, the texture far lighter than one might assume on inspection with the Cherry, Coconut and Lemon all particularly memorable.
FOUR STARS: Cheaper than the chains while still turning out better, the choice of minis available for those looking to taste a variety or perhaps counting calories, The Sugar Cookie will attempt to fill a unique niche in a somewhat hidden location that will require their ownership getting the word out without having to compromise their pricepoint or quality as part of a PR or advertising deal.
Nutella S’mores French Toast – Graham Cracker Crusted French Toast, Marshmallows, Nutella, Whipped Cream and Powdered Sugar
Bacon Chicken Waffle – Bacon Bits in the Batter, House Fried Chicken, Honey Drizzle
Buttermilk Biscuit
An expansion from its 2016 debut in San Jose California, Mimosas Gourmet recently opened at 3455 South Durango Drive, the location directly next to well-regarded La Maison de Maggie Crepe Shop breathing life into a dilapidated strip mall near the Desert Breeze Soccer Complex on the corner of Spring Mountain.
Replacing a former restaurant and open now for just over a few weeks, Mimosas Gourmet offers diners a collection of their eponymous beverage in a wide range of shapes and sizes, the bill of fare itself quite sizable while the 2,500 square foot space features relatively typical seating options, the stero overhead playing IHeartRadio at a fairly loud volume, though not loud enough that conversation is impaired.
Sharing one $8.50 Guava Mimosa, a $3.99 Biscuit and a trio of the restaurant’s more interesting plates, it was in piecemeal fashion as dishes were prepared that items were sent forth from the kitchen, the bubbly beverage far more bitter than those many in Sin City with sliced Strawberries and Oranges on top for a touch of visual flare.
Receiving the Churro Waffle and one mistaken plate first, the order re-confirmed and very obviously resubmitted to the kitchen given the delivery times to follow, the team could go a long way by promoting this item as a ‘signature’ with both the interior and top of the dough featuring a generous amount of Cinnamon and Sugar, the faux-Maple Syrup not a personal favorite but really not so bad when paired with a globe of Vanilla Ice Cream that slowly melts and melds the flavors.
Maroon 5 followed by Bruno Mars, the crowd a wide range of ages and ethnicities, it was after some delay that the Bacon-studded Waffle topped with crisp Chicken Fingers arrived with Honey already added, both items well prepared if not particularly memorable while the overpriced biscuit was fluffy and delicious despite being more like a jumbo dinner roll than something with proper buttery layers.
Serving large portions, the biggest and richest yet to come, it was another ten minutes before the three-piece tower of French Toast landed to the right of un-cleared plates and empty Water glasses, this diabolical concoction seeing melted Marshmallow Fluff and at least a tablespoon of Nutella at top, middle and bottom, the Cinnamon and Ginger not entirely lost either thought the center piece of toast was so overly saturated with toppings that it almost ate like Custard.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Not exactly “locally owned,” but nonetheless doing some interesting spins on Breakfast and Lunch classics in a space that is comfortable and easily accessible to those in Spring Valley or Summerlin, Mimosas Gourmet joins an ever-growing list of places to consider for breakfast when tired of the same ol’ same ol’ and for those unwilling to go looking for better in the Southeast or on the Strip.
RECOMMENDED: Churro Waffle, Nutella S’mores French Toast.
AVOID: Biscuit (actually listed as a $4.99 Biscuit and Gravy Side on the menu.)
TIP: 6a-3p M-F and open till four o’clock on weekends.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Turtle Bolognese – Bucatini, Sherry, Parsley and Fried Soft-Boiled Egg
Apple Toffee Cake with Toasted Almonds and Buttermilk
Butterscotch Pudding – Benne Wafers and Vanilla Bean Cream
Finishing just across the street from where the 38-stop dining adventure through New Orleans began almost exactly 7-days prior, lunch on Saturday took place at Justin Devillier’s La Petite Grocery, the California Native and four-time Beard Award Finalist presenting his upscale interpretation of New Orleans Cuisine in a former Market that he came into possession of and rehabilitated post-Katrina.
A space older than many, the Magazine Street corner-store operating in some capacity since the mid-1800s, it was with noon reservations that I was greeted at the hostess podium and quickly led to a two-top made from a long banquet, a pleasant young server soon providing both menu and water with a few brief descriptions of a Daily Specials Menu to the left.
A small and succinct menu, the sections divided into Entrees, Appetizers and “Sides & Such” with Dessert and Drink listed separately, it was in three courses that the meal was presented – the Appetizer literally arriving less than ninety seconds later with Devillier’s famous Crab Beignets almost impossibly light despite being well-packed with sweet white Meat and Cream that paired beautifully with zippy Vinegar Aioli.
Receiving apologies with a stalk of Baguettes that arrived nearly ten minutes late, cool and served with a block of Butter that could only be described as frigid, better bites were found in the $24 bowl of hollow Housemade Noodles beneath a mound of Sauce teaming with Tomatoes and funk, the fried Egg still soft at its center helping to meld flavors though the flavor of Sherry mentioned in the plate’s description was nowhere to be found.
One of the city’s most expensive spots when accounting for portions, the $68 meal after tax + tip rounded out by two tiny Desserts, La Petite Grocery’s Butterscotch Pudding does little to impress when compared to more famous versions elsewhere, the Apple Toffee Cake really little more than a simple quick-bread finishable in three bites for nine dollars.
Located in a small, homey storefront on St. Charles Avenue in the Lower Garden District, not exactly the tourist sector but easily accessible by the streetcars rumbling by outside, Pralines By Jean…and Cupcakes Too! has made a name for itself as one of the best mom n’ pop stops for sweet treats in New Orleans since opening in the late 2000’s, the family owned shop also offering several kitchen items and gifts featuring a Saints or Mardi Gras theme.
Taking pride in local sourcing and a lack of preservatives, samples often offered of both the eponymous sweets, it is to warm greetings that those entering the shop are universally treated, the lone clerk taking time to explain the store’s concept while juggling the tasks of answering phones and also stocking shelves.
Pricing Pralines lower than some national brands despite the freshness and quality, at least three flavors offered each day, it was with samples of Classic, Coffee and Chocolate that the decision was made to order one-each of the first two, both lacking any of the grit that often mars lesser versions with each bite melting on the tongue into a creamy, sweet puddle.
Impressed b y the intensity of flavors, a statement that no artificial flavors are used in the shop shocking when considering the boldness of Coffee amidst all that sugar, Cupcakes seem a bit overpriced at $3 each for what amounts to, at most, two bites – the Sprinkled Red Velvet making one question whether the colorful decorations or bright red base were indeed “all natural,” no matter how tasty, while the Punch-like New Orleans Nectar as well as the Pralines and Cream were equally well-crafted, the Carrot Cake only falling short as it unfortunately lacked in spice profile.
Willa Jean Chocolate Chip Cookie / Oatmeal Cookie + Dried Fruit + Sea Salt
Sticky Bun
Chocolate Pecan Pie
Another piece of the John Besh Empire, my 2010 meal at Luke still memorable to this day despite dinner at Restaurant August proving to be a big let-down, Willa Jean seemed to be a perfect place for early Saturday breakfast before driving family to the airport, though just short of making a scene the service was so lackadaisical and involved with “team meetings” that a simple order of Pastries, Coffee and two Biscuits threatened to make them late.
Located on O’Keefe Avenue in the business district, not exactly a hopping area at 7:15am on a weekend, Willa Jean sees Besh collaborating with Chefs Kelly Fields and Lisa White to bring a quick-casual all-day eatery to downtown New Orleans, a grab n’ go counter up front for those in a hurry while plenty of seating is offered amidst floor-to-ceiling windows in a vast space that would also seem to be prime for expedited eating.
Arriving just past opening, the counter well stocked and a few folks already present and seated at tables, it was with pleasant greetings at the hostess stand that the morning got off to a good beginning, our trio led to a reclaimed wood table where menus were presented – the server inexplicably disappearing for nearly fifteen minutes after water and Coffee were poured, Intelligentia always a favorite…though less so the difficulty with obtaining refills.
Excusing the delay with a “team meeting,” generally the sort of thing a restaurant does before unlocking the door, it was with ten items ordered and a specific mention that we’d like to be on our way by 8:30 that a mug of Peanut Butter Hot Chocolate was delivered, the creamy concoction delicious but not enough to make one wonder why nothing had arrived with Coffee cups again empty as minute hand crossed fifty-five past seven o’clock.
Stating that he’d understood “as items are ready” to mean the table wanted everything at once, as soon as the four hot items were prepped in the kitchen, it was just past 8:00am that a glut of food arrived, the Biscuits setting a high standard unrivaled by any other in The Crescent City, each laminated layer loaded with Butter and incredibly flaky while the large Chicken Breast was juicy and rife with spices brought across by the house-blended Honey.
Continuing to sample the hot items, Griddled Pumpkin Bread moist and dense whether alone or topped in sweetened Cream Cheese Mousse, Willa Jean’s Cornbread may just be the best in the industry as it is lacquered in Poirier’s Cane Syrup with more on the side with Butter for spreading, each bite toothsome and boldly flavored with incompletely pureed Kernels adding naturally sweet pockets to the mix.
Blasé about the Butterscotch Apple Poptart, the Fruit filling tasty while the shell itself lacks any real character, a tightly coiled Sticky Bun quickly saw the team back on good footing with rich spice notes but not *too much* Sugar, the excessive sweetness instead saved for a duo of Cookies that achieved well otherwise with Salted Oatmeal and mixed Fruits certainly offering an upgrade on plain ol’ Oatmeal Raisin.
Unlikely to finish such a spread even with plenty of time, and certainly not when in a hurry, the excess of several items were packed to go after a few bites of the Fudgey Praline Brownie, a slice of Chocolate Pecan Pie not subjected to such treatment as the top-to-bottom filling of candied nuts suspended in Cocoa, Cream, Sugar and Butter atop a robust Crust compelled bite-after-bite until the plate was empty.
Pretzel Donuts & Coffee – Vanilla Pastry Cream, Vietnamese Coffee Pot de Crème
Rice Pudding – Brûlée, Citrus, Yoghurt Mousse, Pine Nuts, Honey
Growing up since a 2010 visit to 3025 Magazine Street, the Sucré concept now expanded to Rue Conti in The French Quarter with a full-service restaurant upstairs, one could not help but wonder just what the team would concoct to thrill diners in one of America’s most decadent cities, a tasting of four desserts giving notice of a space defying convention with ideas that stray far outside New Orleans’ traditional Bread Pudding, Pralines and Beignets “box.”
Differentiating the Salon from Sucré by way of a staircase that leads to more refined environs decorated in dark woods, Wine bottles, mirrors and subtle lights, guests at Salon by Sucré are encouraged to make reservations for prime-time hours, the dining space more than 3/4 full at 7:15 in the evening, though the group was still able to secure a four-top despite arriving over an hour earlier than expected.
Eschewing savories for this visit, though some items did sound intriguing, it was after a brief discussion of portions that variety was chosen in place of volume, the Soufflé for two looking better suited for four at the table beside ours as “Cold Brew” that turned out to be concentrate from a Toddy used for Cocktails provided assurance of a wakeful and vigilant drive back to the hotel.
Waiting nearly thirty minutes past the time of ordering, none really bothered by this as K-Paul’s had already provided a fair bit of sustenance earlier on, it was just as the clock struck eight o’clock that four plates arrived with lengthy descriptions from two servers, the affogato immediately delved into as it was most temperature sensitive, the concoction eating something like a chunky Chocolate Mousse that admittedly tasted great despite a complete lack of visual appeal.
Trending prettier with a tableside topped Hot Chocolate PB&J, the microwave-style Chocolate Cake light and wispy around Peanut Butter Gelato with a smear of Strawberry Preserves and Hot Chocolate Sauce, salty Pretzel bites piped with Vanilla Custard beneath Cinnamon Sugar offered another impressive taste whether eaten solo or dipped in a shallow Pot de Crème, the crystallized Sugar-topped tangy Rice still standing head and shoulders above the rest with Pine Nuts, Honey and light Saffron notes adding a distinct yet pleasant Mediterranean flavor.
Shrimp and Butternut Squash Bisque – Butternut Squash Smothered with Caramelized Onions and Seasoning, Simmered, Pureed, Creamed and Finished with Sautéed, Fresh Louisiana Shrimp
Crabmeat Popcorn with Sherry Sauce – Fresh Louisiana Jumbo Claw Crabmeat Seasoned and Dipped in a Very thin Batter, Flash Fried and Served with Sherry Sauce
Roasted Creole Sausage with Creole Sauce – Ground Rabbit, Duck and Pork with Caramelized Onions, Celery, Garlic and Bell Peppers, Seasoned then Stuffed in a Casing. Slow Roasted and Served with Creole Sauce
Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Chipotle Remoulade – Green Tomatoes Seasoned and Dipped in Corn Meal Batter, Deep-Fried and Layered with Sautéed, Fresh Louisiana Shrimp in a Chipotle Remoulade Sauce
Eggplant Pirogue with Seafood Wild Black Pepper Cream – Eggplant “Cajun Canoe” Seasoned, Battered, Deep Fried and Filled with Fresh Louisiana Shrimp, Whole Oysters and Diced Fish in a Rich Wild Mushroom Black Pepper Cream Sauce. Served with Potatoes and Veggies
Panéed Rabbit with Shrimp Chartres Street Jambalaya – Fresh Rabbit Seasoned, Lightly Breaded with Bread Crumbs, Pan Fried and Served with Onions, Bell Peppers, Celery, Tasso, Sausage, Chicken, Tomatoes, Jalapenos and Garlic Simmered for Hours with the Right Amount of Rice Folded in and Served with Sauce Piquant and Topped with Fried Fresh Louisiana Shrimp. Served with Veggies
Sweet Potato Pecan Pie – A layer of Creamy Sweet Potato Filling topped with Roasted Pecans and served with Chantilly Sauce
Bread Pudding – Bread soaked in Rich Egg Cream, then Baked with Raisins and Pecans to Create a Moist Pudding with Nutmeg, Vanilla and Cinnamon. Served with Hard Sauce
Custard Marie – Rich Egg Custard with a Pecan Praline at the Bottom, Topped with Caramelized Sugar
One of New Orleans’ most storied kitchens, the late Paul Prudhomme’s passion and personality making him one of the world’s most well-known toques long before the current era of Celebrity Chefs, K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen remains as coveted a reservation in 2016 as it ever has been, the kitchen still turning out upscale modern Cajun fare six-days per week to a packed house.
Located at the center of the French Quarter, a two-story space at 416 Chartres Street offering dinner every evening but Sunday and a more limited lunch from 11-2 Thursday through Saturday, K-Paul’s came to prominence by being one of the first restaurants to offer refined Cajun fare without the stuffiness or pretense of Galatoire’s, Arnauds or Antoine’s, the kitchens’s progeny seen in countless kitchens and multiple cities from Tampa Bay all the way to the Pacific Northwest.
A festively decorated space with cartoon depictions of the Chef’s recipes lining the walls, service professional yet oftentimes as jovial as the rotund Chef himself, it is from a menu prone to daily change that guests are invited to make their meal choices, prices in the mid-to-high range actually quite modest when accounting for the portions and ingredients involved.
Dining in three courses, the lengthy menu descriptions creating the sort of visuals that make nearly every plate tempting, it was with a large basket of housemade Bread that the meal got underway, the Sweet Cornbread Rolls gone quickly and by a Carrot Cake Pecan Loaf that could just as well be served with breakfast or as dessert.
Feebly attempting to stay hands from the Butter Rolls, it was with good fortune that appetizers came fast, the Squash Puree with fresh Shrimp dazzling thanks to caramelized Onions while “Crabmeat Popcorn” proved a substantial upgrade on the more common Chicken version, Prudhomme’s classic recipe for Creole Sausage piquant but not “spicy” with a great grind inside the snappy case.
Going with some of the classics as entrees, the hollowed and lightly fried Eggplant Pirogue literally overflowing with fresh Seafood in an ocean of spicy Mushroom Cream, lighter bites were found amidst a Fried Green Tomatoes overlying smoky Shrimp with Chipotle Peppers while the Chartres Street Jambalaya arrived as a full Panéed Rabbit alongside a mountain of Rice topped with Cornmeal crusted Shrimp and teaming with Taso, Chicken, Onions plus plenty of spice.
With no freezer on premises, an idea presented by Chef Paul when the restaurant opened to assure that everything was as fresh as can be, desserts eschewed Ice Cream as a topping for Sweet Potato Pecan Pie or the restaurant’s signature Bread Pudding with “Hard Cream” that essentially eats like sweetened Butter, the “Custard Marie” actually managing to wrestle the spotlight away from both as the Brûléed Egg Custard ate more like Pudding than a traditional Crème Brûlée with a crunchy Pecan Praline offering incentive in each spoonful to dig deep.
Dining amidst a packed dining room with photos of the space completely submerged post-Katrina hung as a reminder of The Crescent City’s resilience, Parkway Bakery & Tavern is every bit the community icon as Willie Mae’s Scotch House, and then some, the restaurant open and closed intermittently at 538 Hagan Avenue ever since 1911, though the classic Po-Boy was not created until the Railway Strike of 1929.
Earning both local and international acclaim over the decades, their overstuffed Sandwiches on toasted Rolls the photographic definition of what people envision when thinking of New Orleans’ most famous dish, it was mere minutes after noon that the counter was approached as part of a line that moves quickly, the ordering process simple with a window near Soda dispensers around the corner where order after order is called out.
Harkening the days when every New Orleans neighborhood had its own corner bakery, this one of German ancestry but no longer making its own Bread and instead sourcing Leidenheimer’s Baking Company like so many others, current owner Jay Nix still insists on doing things the right way, wild-caught Gulf Shrimp and Fish breaded in-house daily with Roast Beef and Gravy all made inside Parkway’s kitchen from an old family recipe.
Priced affordably enough to attract some 1,000 patrons on a good day, the “Surf n’ Turf” with Shrimp and Debris a sloppy smile-inducer when fully-dressed in Lettuce, Tomatoes, Pickles and Hot Sauce, other options include Hot Links, Oysters or seasonal selections made by Nix’s nephew Justin Kennedy, the desserts also made on-site with the Banana Pudding creamy if not particularly innovative while the steaming hot slab of Bread Pudding is chock-full-of Raisins in a pool of boozy Crème Anglaise.
America’s Best Fried Chicken, Macaroni & Cheese, Peas & Onions
Cornbread
Mashed Potatoes with Brown Gravy
Sweet Potato Fries
Bread Pudding
Red Velvet Cheesecake
At this point nothing short of a New Orleans institution, the Treme neighborhood favorite now more accessible than ever by way of Uber or Lyft, Willie Mae’s Scotch House has accumulated countless accolades for “America’s Best Fried Chicken” since adding the item to lunch service nearly 50 years ago, The James Beard Foundation even going so far as to deem the restaurant on St. Ann Street a 2005 “America’s Classic” winner, mere months before Hurricane Katrina shuttered the space until a 2007 privately-funded rebuild.
Named after Willie Mae Seaton, the original owner and cook who died just over one year ago at the age of 99, recent times have sparked some discussion that the combination of her passing and recent “foodie” hype have somehow diminished the appeal of a visit, the small line present prior to a 10am opening occasionally expanding to over two hours, though a second location on St. Charles Avenue does offer the same recipes in an expanded dining space.
Handing down her recipe for Wet-Battered Bird to a Great-Granddaughter after re-opening, nothing about the simple Salt and Pepper flavor changed according to longtime fans, a quick look at Willie Mae’s shows signs of a “do one thing, do it well” concept, each three-piece serving made-to-order and worth the wait, served with one side for just $11.
Occasionally offering Veal, Pork, Fish or Shrimp, the newer location more prone to daily specials, it was at the center of a room featuring family photos, awards and the Bronze Medal that we sat, severs friendly and efficient even amidst heavy traffic with a mere fifteen minutes separating walking through the door and hot Chicken on the table.
The sort of food where sight and smell alone tell a story, golden-brown Batter adhering loosely to moist, almost-creamy flesh, each bite of Ms. Seaton’s Chicken speaks volumes about time and tradition, the sides no less impressive whether one favors Mashed Potatoes in Brown Gravy, Mac n’ Cheese or crispy hand-cut Sweet Potatoes.
Impressed by lightly sweetened Cornbread, each Muffin tender and springy without any need for added butter, more sweetness was delivered by a duo of timeless Southern Desserts, the Red Velvet Cake exceedingly dense with Cocoa but balanced by Cream Cheese Frosting while the scoop of Bread Pudding was a perfect combination of toasted and custardy beneath a generous spoonful of Crème Anglaise.
Not entirely clear on when Wink’s “World Famous Buttermilk Drop” was rebranded as Wink’s “Bakery & Bistro,” nor really as to how or why the French Quarter space and subsequent expansion to a local mall became “World Famous” in the first place, it was just past the eight o’clock opening that I entered the exposed brick and concrete floored space, glass cases not yet even filled as two young male voices could faintly be heard chatting in the distance.
Generally assuming a Donut shop opening after sunrise is not serious about their craft, the sleepy-eyed young man finally emerging from the back with a “what can I getcha,” also suspect, it was with modern rock playing overhead that a few quick questions were answered, the dining-space filled with pictures of Wink empty save for myself throughout the next half-hour.
Wondering how far this generation of the eatery differed from Wink’s original, the feeling far more ‘hipster’ than the stripped-down yet superb Buttermilk Drop Bakery & Café on North Dorgenois Street, donuts selected included a Pudding-filled pocket that trended far too artificial alongside an Apple Fritter that was equally disappointing, the outside a bit too oily without any semblance of Fruit at its doughy center.
Finding a yeasted ring with Sugar crystals much better, the sweetened Cream Cheese frosting not dissimilar to that of the festive Fat Tuesday Cake, two of the formerly-eponymous orbs proved well-flavored with a bit of sourness beneath the glaze, though the crumb still fell short of nearby competitors by way of too-low an oil temperature which prevented the characteristic crispness around its edge.
A quaint corner store at the crossing of Chartres and Spain Street, New Orleans Cake Café & Bakery occupies a space just northeast of The French Quarter in an area known as Faubourg Marginy, Owner/Chef Steve Himelfarb and his team greeting guests with great food and big smiles for Breakfast, Lunch or a Treat every day of the week but Tuesday.
Far enough from the tourist district to feel ‘locals-only,’ everyone eating at 7:20am on a Friday clearly known to the staff, it was with local art to be perused on the wall that a small wait for counter-service was passed upon entry, a total of five pastries selected while two additional plates were brought forth after perhaps ten minutes.
Highly praised for using only the best local produce for Omelets, Salads and Sandwiches, none really fitting the plan for breakfast despite sounding quite good on paper, first bites of Chef Himelfarb’s goods were entrusted to a folded Cinnamon Roll followed by still-warm Coffee Cake, the former actually quite good despite its atypical appearance while the latter was unfortunately marred slightly by the fact that all the Blueberries had sunk to its base.
Impressed by two Cupcakes, a thick smear of Cream Cheese Frosting working well with the intense Cocoa of Red Velvet while sweet Buttercream was a spot-on match to the Pecan speckled Cake beneath it, the Chocolate-Almond Croissant unfortunately fell short by way of too much Frangipane, though a plate of flaky Buttermilk Biscuits quickly righted the ship alongside fresh preserves – as too did crisp-yet-custardy French Toast resting in a pool of Cane Syrup.
Last seeing Chef Rick Tramonto’s work presented to tables across the room at TRU in 2008, but paying close attention to the accumulating accolades for his Restaurant R’Evolution ever since the space opened on Bienville Street in June of 2012, it was with high expectations that a party of three entered the Royal Sonesta New Orleans for a 7:00pm reservation on Thursday, a short wait at the hostess stand quickly followed by a tall, middle-aged man leading us to our seats.
Packed past capacity, the bar three deep with numerous dining rooms full of boisterous diners, it was with menus in hand that the table was soon approached by a server questionably on Speed or some sort of Caffeine bender, his rapid speech prone to tripping over itself but eventually able to regroup and offer recommendations regarding what he felt was best, though little of the obvious up-selling managed to fit our tastes.
Taking pride in its seasonality, sourcing and extensive Wine list, Tramonto’s famous “Caviar Staircase” offered alongside house-cured Charcuterie displayed via glass windows in a Meat locker towards the back, Restaurant R’Evolution embraces fine dining as an event not unlike the Galatoire’s and Arnaud’s of yesteryear, luxury ingredients not infrequent or small in their portion sizes while most of the patrons are dressed business-casual, at least.
Serving in team-format, a well-versed and professional captain describing many of the plates including an amuse of tender Octopus as well as a Chef’s choice “Pig Out Board” highlighted by acid-tinged N’duja alongside funky Headcheese that went well with not only its accoutrements but also the housemade Duck Fat Brioche and Whole Wheat Sourdough, more great bites were found in Beer-battered Crab Beignets, each tender puff made even better by way of its own distinct Rémoulade.
Continuing appetizers with Death by Gumbo, a deboned Quail stuffed with Filé Rice exploding to knife pressure and thickening the dark Roux teaming with Sausage and Oysters, an even more impressive idea was presented by way of thinly sliced Peach Carpaccio mixed with tangy Cream Cheese and topped by reduced Blueberries, Duck Liver and lightly brûléed Sugar.
Showing well with side dishes, both the Mascarpone Grits and creamy Mashed Potatoes more than enough to share, entrees showed an eye towards balance as feather-light Gnocchi took on Vanilla’s aromatics to pair with fresh Lobster Meat, the Sweet Potato Risotto a far more hearty dish topped in charred yet snappy Shrimp amidst crispy orange Chips and briny Mustard Greens.
Slowly working through Tramonto’s trio of Quail, the Southern-Fried version and that glazed in light Licorice notes significantly more interesting than a stuffed Bird that failed to meet the high standard set by the Gumbo, desserts were announced by a Jewel Box of Mignardises that unfortunately found most items difficult to share, the properly plated choices a far different story as the Squash Soufflé arrived tall and proud with Cookie Coated Ice Cream alongside two sorts of Pudding, the steamy Steen’s Cake unapologetically sugary while the Caramelized Maple Bread Pudding was lent balance by Booze and Black Cherries.
Velvet Elvis Doberge Bite, Bloody S’mores Doberge Bite, Fig and White Chocolate Doberge Bite
One of those “why didn’t someone think of this sooner?” situations, where a simple conversation hatched a business plan that somehow found an audience, Debbie Does Doberge is owned by the team of Charlotte McGehee and Charles Mary, their take on New Orleans’ classic layer cake previously sold only by pre-order now offered by the slice at the couple’s “Bakery Bar.”
Surely an interesting idea, the former dive at 1179 Annunciation Street just beneath the Pontchartrain Expressway reinvented as a place for “Sweets and Drinks” from before noon until midnight daily, Bakery Bar initially opened as the official point-of-sales for Debbie Does Doberge in April 2016 and now joined by a limited selection of savories the small corner-store has officially caught fire, the space nearly 2/3 full at the time of our Thursday 4:00pm arrival.
Far more appealing in appearance than the pudding cake from Joe Gambino’s, the texture also better with smooth Buttercream dividing soft layers as stiffer, boiled Icing helps each wedge hold its form, Ms. McGehee follows a modified version of the Hungarian Dobos Torta recipe ‘invented’ by Beulah Ledner during the Great Depression in building her creations, a half-dozen or more flavors offered daily by slice or as small pyramidal ‘bites’ for the indecisive.
Making difficult decisions to maximize variety, three slices and a trio of bites shared amongst the group, even the most ardent descendent of Hungary would be hard-pressed to claim “Debbie’s” cakes anything short of excellent, the Rainbow-themed Wedding Cake as sweet as it was colorful while the “Sweet Potato Pie” was completely opposite the heavy Southern Classic in terms of texture, though the flavor was precisely like it.
Having just passed Halloween, “Bloody S’mores” both Cocoa-rich and nicely accented with Cinnamon at the same time, equally complex pairings were found amidst the Peanut Butter and Banana bite as well as the White Chocolate coated Figgy Pudding, the best of the best nonetheless agreed upon by all as the Pecan-studded Milk-Chocolate slice with lightly salted Caramel.
Chicken-n’-Biscuits – Fried Chicken Breasts, Housemade Biscuits, Sausage Gravy (on the side)
Praised by many for dinner, but moreso by locals for Brunch, Atchafalaya recently extended the Weekend-morning meal to include both Thursday, Friday as well as Monday morning service, the always-packed restaurant at 901 Louisiana Avenue already generating a small line at 10am with the dining room and bar both three-quarters filled on Thursday by noon.
No longer the “hidden neighborhood gem” it once was, a creative menu of Creole inspiration from Chef Chris Lynch enticing diners in a room of reclaimed woods and artifacts post-Katrina, those with the foresight to book a table at Atchafalaya will find warm greetings at the hostess stand overlooking a DIY Bloody Mary Bar beneath articles touting accolades, the full-bar opposite ready to supply those in search of alternative Beer, Wine or Spirits.
Seated comfortably at a mid-size four top, sleep-eyed service a bit tight at first but improving as the meal went on, it was from a well-culled menu of brunch plates that decisions were made, a small plate of warm Cornbread Muffins served with whipped butter ready to whet appetites alongside rounds of spicy Alligator Sausage plus a cup of creamy yellow soup that offered almost as much fresh-picked Crab as it did the pureed corn it was mixed in.
Deciding to choose Atchafalaya’s classics as entrees, though a few recent specials were also quite tempting, the challenge was one of deciding which was best as all three plates offered something different and delicious, the Fried Chicken surely the most straight forward and perfectly crisp with good Gravy while the Pain Perdu was a custard soaked masterpiece that ate deceivingly light, the Hash spinning tradition on its head by adding fruit to crispy Duck with rich Hollandaise balanced by the salty and bright Vinaigrette.
House Biscuits with Orange Marmalade and Strawberry Preserves
French Toast Sticks with Steen’s Cane Syrup and Powdered Sugar
Grilled Brie on Waffles with Blueberry Compote and Powdered Sugar, Cheese Grits
Pimento Cheese and Bacon Biscuit Pockets
Appropriately located on the Street in its name, Biscuits & Buns on Banks continued the parade of local’s only Breakfast stops on Thursday, the ever changing menu and big murals all but shouting New Orleans, as too does a substantial tilt to the foundation of the aged building.
Located well-outside the touristy French Quarter and Garden district, 8am-3pm hours near the Art Museum, New Orleans Country Club and Delgado Community College providing a varied clientele more than capable of filling two small rooms and thereby generating a wait, it was just past opening that our party of three entered the restaurant in front of three local Police officers, all of them clearly regulars though the hostess treated both parties to the same big smile.
Seated with menus and water in hand, Hot Coffee declined as the air both indoors and outside was unseasonably moist and warm, it was after listening to a few specials that an order was constructed, the restaurant’s eponymous Drop Biscuits quickly served with fresh Preserves, Steen’s and Raw Honey, the interior almost cake-like and thereby as good as that style gets.
Waiting briefly for the rest, one in the party’s BPPV exacerbated by a slanted room that literally sees perspiring water glasses slide from one edge of the table to the other without assistance, more great bites arrived by way of toasty Pimento Cheese and Pork Pies alongside deep-fried Pain Perdu meant to be dunked in Cane Syrup, the “Grilled Brie” unfortunately far less gooey than one might hope between Waffle Halves topped in stewed Blueberries while a big cup of Cheese Grits at its side was as stick-a-spoon-up-straight delicious as it was filling.
