Beyond frustrated by Bouchery’s refusal to seat me due to a “mistake,” the name clearly in the online reservation system but not in the paper ledger despite a confirmation E-mail on my phone, it was with no other alternative offered that a trip was made to the most famous Friterie in all of Brussels, the queue at Maison Antoine only a dozen at each window, but still moving ever so slowly.
Not particularly ‘sold’ on Belgian Frites being better than elsewhere after trips to Georgette and Tabora, one could not help but wonder if the historic kiosk at Place Jourdan in Etterbeek was doing something “special” to outpace the rest, and although the number of sauces and ‘snacks’ do indeed outnumber any other place in the city while the surrounding environment has grown to accommodate a “BYOF” economy the simple fact remains that these are merely fried potatoes made by teenagers in T-shirts.
Waiting for perhaps thirty minutes, the rain having stopped for once with several patrons taking large orders to parties-in-waiting at nearby bars, the cash-only nature of Maison Antoine led to a somewhat truncated experience as there were limited Euros left in my pocket, yet making due with four items plus a sauce for just €8.90 the Fries, sampled first, were actually the least impressive item ordered – the texture of smaller pieces crunchy and preferable to larger slices while the thick white sauce was rich with herbs and actually pretty great.
Now convinced that Belgian Frites are really just a delivery mechanism for Sauce, further bites from the 1948 hut included crispy fried Meat not quite as rich as that at Café Georgette, the two styles of Croquette actually much better with the Cheese version actually preferable to mild Shrimp flavors as the texture came across less runny, reminiscent an Italian Arancini with particularly creamy rice.
Chocolate Fleur de Cao 70% – Caramel, Hazelnut, Cheesecake, Green Apple
Dessert Trolley – Rhubarb Pie, Lemon Cassis Pie, Pistachio Cherry Pie, Raspberry Yogurt Pie, Apricot Custard Pie, Cream Puffs, Éclairs, Baba Au Rhum, English Tea Cake, Chocolates, Macarons, Marshmallows, Canele
Madelines and Smoutebollen
Dark Chocolate and Hazelnut Pralines
The culinary home of Chef Peter Goossens, an old farmhouse in Kruishoutem not far from the Dutch border, Restaurant Hof Van Cleve holds an interesting history that saw Goossens join the kitchen staff in 1987 before eventually purchasing it after accumulating worldwide accolades and although the process of making an online reservation was perhaps one of the most rude and difficult of all those found in Europe, the Summer 2016 tasting menu could not have been finer as the kitchen sent out over fifteen courses all-inclusive of canapes and mignardises.
All-in-all a very small restaurant, the L-Shaped space from front door to kitchen containing perhaps thirty seats, it was at the far end of the second room that a two top big enough for four was offered and after a quick perusal of two tastings plus a la carte options the decision was made to select the more intensive experience, one small substitution allowed for without a question by the Chef.
Functioning like many of Michelin’s very best, the service “present but invisible” while dining, yet completely cordial and informative when called upon, the tasting began with a pricy glass of bubbly plus a €20 Mocktail in tune with the season, a small bowl of carrot veloute served as a frothy cappuccino along with in-house bread service that featured five varieties, unsalted butter brought from a nearby farm with the salted version procured from Bordier.
Difficult to know, precisely, where the gifts end and tasting begins, two crisps topped with seafood were dynamic bites of texture as well as taste, and although the tartare featured a great composition of “surf and turf” by way of anchovy dressing the marinated Herring under vibrant granite was ever more compelling with the typically poignant fish lent a whole new degree of levity.
Progressing steadily through several seafood courses, the snappy Langoustine standing out alongside Chicken Liver mousse and Radish while cubes of Red Shrimp next played off puffed Rice atop Romesco, a truly wowing course arrived next by way of two services of Seabass , the first a room temperature filet in textures of Green Apple and Cucumber while the later bathed in warm miso with Sea Urchin and crispy Quinoa.
More bread requested, the Spelt particularly remarkable, King Crab next arrived gently steamed next to Cauliflower and Mushrooms, the Codfish and Eel continuing to show Belgium’s fondness for Asparagus, as did the sizable segment of Lobster “Oosterschelde” whose sauce competed with that from Sea Grill’s Silver Press for ‘best ever status’ alongside tender Morels, twice-shucked Peas and even more Asparagus.
Having requested the Sweetbread in place of Veal, a simple change that saw only the protein changed while the accoutrements remained the same, a selection of custom knives made by a nearby artisan were offered in tune with artwork and cheers equally local, the plate itself reining rich meat in by way of Picadilly and Aubergine while a sidecar of Veal Cheek was a well composed counterpoint in reduced stock beneath a satiny cap of Bone Marrow fortified Mousseline.
Passing on Cheeses, the selection smaller than some but appearing to be enjoyed by a table of businessmen who partook, it was with amusement that the table adjacent enjoyed a simple Dame Blanche after an attenuated a la carte lunch, the degustation instead finishing with elegantly plated Strawberry Rhubarb as well as Dark Chocolate compositions, the later made truly memorable by way of Green Apple juice added tableside while the Dessert Trolley offered even more temptation followed by warm Madelines, Dutch Donuts, Chocolates and Pralines.
Located on upscale Congresstraat in Brussels, and home to pastries that many consider to be the best country wide, Brian Joyeux Patisserie could almost be passed by those unaware of the talent lying within its confines, a mere two stairs above street level seeing several European classics raised by a much greater degree.
Combining the storefront with the workshop, Chef Joyeux busy at work with a rolling pin during much of the time spent perusing options while speaking with the store clerk, an early arrival found the shop open just minutes at 09h05 and with a bevy of options already decorating glass shelves and the windowside the promise that even more would be available later did indeed prove quite tempting, though in reality a Baker’s Half-Dozen plus a gifted Macaron would prove a rather daunting amount of sweetness in a day that also included lunch at Hof Van Cleve.
No doubt an impeccable array, some of the items already accounted for in outgoing orders later discovered to be sold at Laurent Gerbaud, it was with a few favorites immediately optioned that further decisions were deferred to the Chef and his Assistant, the Chocolate Fondant filled with liquid Caramel still mesmerizing nearly twelve hours later with a cup of Coffee back at the Hilton Hotel.
Pricey compared to others, though still a bargain when compared to Paris, London or many major Metros back in the United States, tastes following the delicate Macaron sampled in-store began with a buttery Financier dense with Almond Flour beneath poached Strawberries and progressed nicely into Vanilla Bread Pudding that somehow managed the rare feat of being completely soaked with Custard while still maintaining a bready texture with occasional pieces of dried fruit dotting the interior here and there.
Admittedly a bit let down by a cookie, the Dark Chocolate nicely melted but the center cooked too hard, better bites were found in the elegant Apricot Tart whose light charring helped offset some of the sweetness, dried pieces of the same fruit found in a Kugelhopf that was actually still ‘wet’ within its wispy center despite a perfect golden exterior, the Baba au Rhum absolutely sopping with Simple Syrup and Booze beneath a cloud of Cream and Citrus shavings.
Located on Place Eugene Flagey, a location more rapidly accessible by foot during the morning rush than it is by car, La Fleur du Pain is another of those ‘locals only’ sorts of bakeries where lines move fast and English is limited, a 7h00 Friday arrival finding a queue of about a dozen with the doors having just opened.
Somewhere in the middle of the pack as relates to variety, the choices on all sides not ‘limited’ but alo not as vast as Patisserie de Baere or Le Saint Aulaye, those arriving at La Fleur du Pain during early morning hours are likely to find breads and viennoiserie still warm from the oven and although Pastry selections apparently expand by midday, there are still several including some larger format options ready for take-away.
On par for price to other local artisans, the seven items purchased just under €17, paying attention proves beneficial at La Fleur du Pain as there are not one, but two, styles of Almond Croissant offered, the single baked version wispy like a traditional Croissant aux Beurre while the other was sliced and filled with almond paste with a crown of even more sliced nuts toasted on with frangipane, both great with the choice as to which was better really a personal sort of thing.
Showing a good degree of butter by way of the escargot coiled around melting bits of Dark Chocolate, La Fleur du Pain continues to shine when it comes to the use of Fresh Fruits over laminated all-butter pastry in any number of shapes, the Apricot version perhaps a bit soggy by way of cream while both Tarts were textbook with edges slightly charred.
Known for their breads, a whole loaf wasteful for just one with a few smaller sizes available, it was on the recommendation of a middle-aged woman standing in line that a small “Triple Chocolate” roll was selected, the texture something like that of a rustic country loaf speckled with Dark and Milk Chocolate pieces while the crumb itself infused with infused with unsweetened cocoa allowing bitter notes to balance the sweetness.
Sourdough Cereal Bread with local butter and butter with ponzu
Peas and Polenta, Granny Smith Juice
Oyster kiwi
Gambero Rosso, Spinach, Orange, Carrots
Turnip and Belgian Caviar
Liernu’s Garden served in the kitchen with fermented lactose, oil of lovage
Lobster Flower with Geranium and Tomato jus
Lobster Pie, Sate Juice, Meadowsweet, Lemon
Leaf of Gin – Lovage sorbet
Ground Beet as a Sesame Salad with Elderflower
Kohlrabi Carbonara with Katsuobushi
Lamb Shoulder slowly cooked 8 hours with soy, seaweed
Oyster of lamb, oyster sauce, plankton
Cheese ‘like a pastry’ – Beaufort alpage, Gingerbread, Maple Syrup
Olive Oil ice cream, toffee, lemon meringue
Wasabi leaf with burned white chocolate
Rhubarb,accacia, elderflower
Strawberry, milk chocolate,biscuit
Lollipops – Orange Blossom, Coffee, Kalamansi, Pistachio, etc.
Owned by Sang Hoon Degeimbre with a newer, larger location in the small town of Eghezee, L’Air du Temps has been posited by many to be Belgium’s next Three Star recipient from Bibendum, the current Two Stars probably a fair assessment of the restaurant’s current execution though the steady progression over time shows that the best is likely yet to come.
Truly a work of passion, the Chef who came to Belgium by way of adoption at the age of five now one of its true culinary icons with his restaurant and style evolving since 1997, L’Air du Temps is now benefitted by a full culinary garden not unlike that of Hertog Jan and upping the ante by way of a more casual environment including “floating bread” hanging at each table on arrival the environment is as comfortable as it is classy, the naked wooden tables fitting the restaurant’s embrace of nature rather nicely.
Offering just two tasting menus, though those truly interested can indeed request just a few plates a la carte, it seemed as though all present in the packed house opted for the longer degustation and adding €10 for a composed Cheese course the total number of plates topped twenty, open bites including bites from the garden highlighted by a Mushroom tart with Indian Cress, the first of several herbs rarely seen on menus elsewhere.
Poured a glass of lightly sweetend Fennel Juice to pair with early plates, peas with hand-ground cornmeal brightened by apple before a juicy oyster kissed with kiwi, Bread at L’Air Du Temps is another elegant Cereal Sourdough served with butter from “a farmhouse just a kilometer that way” plus one tinged with Ponzu, the later dangerous in that it will quickly see the Bread plate empty.
Bringing in an impressive array of seafood, the large Red Shrimp flattened on Toast with a surprising boost from Carrots fresh from the garden, the first ‘wow’ moment of many came by way of what appeared to be a grey-white Ravioli at the center of the plate, a cut with the fork actually showing it to be completely made of Radishes overlying Caviar that foiled bitter with briny.
Taken to the kitchen to stand while enjoying Liernu’s Garden, the classic dish showing several Vegetables fresh from the earth in a fermented broth that helped to accentuate the freshness of each bite, return to the table saw Degeimbre launch into a one-two combination of lobster, the “Flower” served with Geranium and tomato juice while the signature pie is undoubtedly one of the most memorable dishes in all of Belgium with plenty of poached Crustacean off-set by frothy citrus cream.
Refreshing mouths by way of a light leaf of sorbet charged tableside by gin, Ground Beets next found themselves crowned with Elderflower in a makeshift “Sesame Salad” and moving swiftly into ‘noodles’ comprised of Kohlrabi with an egg and shaved Tuna the palate was once again engaged to more savory elements, the lamb shoulder and ‘oyster’ both plated as beautifully as the courses before them with flavors that challenge conformity.
No doubt a bargain for the Cheese Course, the sizable Mille-Feuille pairing soft cheese with Maple Syrup, Gingerbread Crisps and light Vanilla Cream, desserts at L’Air du Temps began with a dried Wasabi dusted in White Chocolate that ate like shaved Coconut, the Olive Oil and Lemon shards reminiscent of dessert number one at Hertog Jan while those that followed continued to show the kitchen’s love of Spring flowers, the Rhubarb Pie almost as memorable as the Lobster one earlier while the Chocolate and Strawberries were simple yet pleasant, as too were the take-home lollipops from a tableside trolley.
Although the Brussels Waffle and Gaufre Liege can be found on any number of streets in most of Belgium’s major cities, it was Waffle Factory and its several location that seemed the most “chain-like” or “quick-casual” of all the shops visited during a recent trip, the process streamline by big boards and suggestions for customization while the results were actually on par with many others at a higher price.
In this particular instance visiting the corner store at Rue du Lombard 30, a number of English speaking tourists just finishing up an order as the options were perused, a credit card friendly environment was a welcome change compared to places like Belgaufra or Le Funambule and taking the opportunity to double up on both styles of dough the process from entry to ordering to exit took less than ten minutes with the total tab just €7.50.
Saying yes to Powdered Sugar, the dusting added before toppings including molten Dark Chocolate and a hefty scoop of Speculoos Ice Cream, opening bites of the Brussels version showed a good crunch over light malt with the Ice Cream unexpectedly high quality considering the low pricetag, a taste of the Liege Waffle proving to be even better with the Sugar Pearls melted to form a sticky caramelized base beneath a texture pillow-soft yet stretchy.
Oddly labeled as BS40, the shop at Rue Au Beurre 40 apparently now selling more than just Chocolates from Darci’s, it was after a touristy walk around Brussels Grand Place and Les Galeries Royales that a visit was made to another of Brussels’ foremost Chocolatiers, the prices on par with most as Macarons raise the bar for taste as well as texture while Chocolates are presented in a rather unique variety.
A place where Pralines take center stage, in this way no different than most of the Shops in Belgium, Darci’s Chocolates sets itself apart from other spaces by labeling each item with full description and whether one opts for the “Owl” with Whisky Caramel and White Chocolate or “Sesamon” with Hazelnut Crisps and Salty finish there really is no wrong option the Speculoos and Arabica also excellent with their expected, yet well crafted, fillings.
Moving past Chocolates, the confitures offered alongside Gaufre admittedly quite tempting, the decision was instead made to sample a few of BS40’s pastel French Cookies, the batch made fresh that morning still sporting a shell with a perfectly crisp break overlying intensely flavored, but lightly sugared, creams and jellies.
Cod with Goose Liver Croquette, Hazelnut, Cauliflower Mousseline
Carpaccio of Salmon, Oyster Cream, Kaffir Lime
Red Wine, Olive, Beer, Country, Wheat, Baguette with Butter and Anchovy Butter, Olive Oil, Salt, Pepper
Brittany Blue Lobster a la Press with Heart of Sweetbreads, Asparagus, Potatoes Mouselline
Floating Island with Raspberries and English Cream
Baba with Spices, Pineapple, Mojito Sorbet, Chantilly, Biscuit
Mignardises
Holding onto Two Michelin Stars for several years, perhaps a bit of a surprise considering its lobby location inside the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Sea Grill by Yves Mattagne was targeted for one reason for lunch on a Thursday, the 12h00 finding the room mostly empty though eventually a few seats in the cavernous luxe dining room would fill.
Perhaps a bit too “business” to qualify as fine-dining, the service staff undoubtedly one of the most professional and stiff encountered in all of Belgium, Sea Grill likely goes unnoticed by many epicurean travelers in a city where the Chef also runs one of the most desired ‘rooms with a view’ in the world, but for those looking for an “experience” it is the 29kg Pure Silver Lobster Press that comes calling, the creation from Christofle one of only five the world has ever seen.
No doubt a pricy place, all the moreso when opting for the Brittany Blue Lobsters prepared tableside a la press, it was with brief temptation offered by the Chef’s tasting that the decision was instead made to simply go all-in on an entrée plus desert selection, the total cost of the main course – for two – €190 with dessert and water bringing the total to €223.
Explaining that the Lobster first needed to be cooked in the kitchen, the total meal just under two hours with front and back end loaded with leisurely paced treats, it was with one canapé plus three amuses that the afternoon got started, the espuma of Cod much like Brandade de Morue with an ethereal texture while the Goose Liver Croquette burst with deep, rich sapor.
More than a little impressed by the bread selection, both the Red Wine and Olive amongst the best of the best with Anchovy Butter particularly noteworthy on the latter, it was just under an hour after seating that the polished Silver Press was wheeled tableside, the display catching eyes of everyone in the dining room as the staff presented each item individually between bouts of spinning and repositioning the crustacean’s carapace, the Lobster soon plated with an enormous Sweetbread breaded and roasted before being hemisected.
Monitored from afar as I dined with a smile, more Asparagus, Potatoes and Sauce brought as needed without request, there is little doubt that this rich a composition is something best shared by a pair as suggested but happy to partake in such indulgence it was with slow bites that every single drop was enjoyed, the balance of the sauce even wiped up with a piece of bread.
Truly a luxurious experience, but not one yet ready to wrap, it was after a brief tour to see the rest of the restaurant that a fresh Dessert napkin was delivered, the Ille Flottante matching the Espuma for levity while the composed Baba was a unique spin on the original that makes one curious about the pastry kitchen’s other creations, a thought furthered by the craftsmanship put into each of the four mignardises.
Told by some that Patisserie de Baere was “worth the traffic,” an early morning drive from the hotel moving at a snail’s pace to the tune of just under three-kilometers covered in about an hour, it was with a steady rain falling that entry was made to the corner location at Heydenberglaan 20 in Woluwe-St-Lambert, the rumors not only proving to be true but possibly extrapolated to phrases including “best pastries in Belgium, if not amongst the best in Europe.”
Owned by Rik de Baere, a multiple award winning Pastry Chef who was on site helping his Staff on Thursday morning at 09h15, a visit to Patisserie de Baere is somewhat akin to the Children with a Golden Ticket to Willy Wonka’s Factory, the number of options larger than any other bakery with even twice the floor-space and the sort of place where all but the most disciplined are likely to not only be tempted, but to over-order substantially.
Truly a vast array, many cakes and tarts glimmering behind glass while cookies, viennoiserie and bread decorate wood shelves or racks, it was with Chef de Baere himself procuring the order that item after item was requested in English flecked with French, the three bags and a box eventually holding eight items for a total of under €20 an unbelievable deal given the overall quality.
Finding several of the items still warm-to-touch, the Almond Croissant starting the tasting with shards of pastry plus powdered sugar slowly floating to the ground as a wispy interior delivered the flavor of nothing but pure almonds, butter and the results of time, the caramelized raisin pastry previously unfamiliar matching the croissant in terms of interior while upping the ante further by way of a crisp layer of caramelization coiled around dried fruit.
With each of the Financiers smooth and buttery as almond flour dazzled around pockets of fruit, it was actually the Raspbery Hazelnut Tart that proved to be the spotlight-stealing selection of the morning as the traditional Frangipane Tart found an added dimension of flavor that had it eating something like a Clafoutis at the base with a toothsome buttercake and nuts on top.
Stunned to see Sfogliatelle, the Italian Cream pastry textbook with coils of dough breaking like glass around the light citrus center, more traditional French items were further exemplified by Brioche topped in Frangipane lightly toasted, the Éclair another sliced version with picture perfect choux surrounding silky Cream infused with Coffee.
Another family-owned Boluangerie and Patisserie, it was to Avenue Jules de Trooz 25 in Woluwe-St-Pierre that the GPS was set after a late night at In de Wulf, and arriving to find that this Patisserie Goossens is not the same as that in Antwerp there still seemed much to be discovered, the results a bit hit and miss, though the overall experience was quite pleasant.
No doubt a bit off the tourist grid, the only other patron during a 30 minute visit clearly a local as he chatted with the baker and clerk at length, it was after short perusal that a total of six pastries were selected from Goossens’ collection, a pair of indoor tables offered without surcharge like many others.
Starting off with an Almond Croissant, as is customary, first tastes showed Goossens to lack the notable degree of lamination achieved by other Belgian Bakeries, yet when moving on to a pocket full of stewed cherries there was indeed improvement, later tastes of the Pain au Chocolate similar to the former and although light enough with a golden shell, not matched to personal preferences.
Told that a Gateau Chocolat was “very good” by the clerk, its texture a bit dry though the cocoa notes rang loud and clear, a better bite was found in the Poire Frangipane Tart that outperformed Le Temps des Tartines by way of fruit turning the almond base into a sort of soft pudding, the Éclair anticipated to be Espresso actually a semi-sweet caramel that reminisced of the disappointment at Le Temps as it sliced and filled with custard rather than being piped with cream.
Pigeon, Jugged and Hung 2 weeks, Aged 6 weeks and Roasted in the Hay
Buttermilk, Red Beetroot, Nasturtium Bulb
Strawberry, Pineapple Weed – Foraged Berries Smoked on the Coals
Goat’s Curd, Daisy – Milk, Stems, Cream
Smoutebollen, Juniper –Pork Fat Fried
Raspberries, Yogurt – Smoked Butter Crust
Ostensibly the impetus for a trip to Belgium, Chef Kobe Desramaults’ late 2015 announcement of intent to shutter his Michelin Starred Space in Dranouter at the end of 2016, it was with great anticipation and a long drive in the fog that the car was parked at In de Wulf for a three-and-a-half-hour meal that included everything from an informative kitchen visit to a literal power-outage.
Still a very young man despite the substantial accolades and two more restaurants in Gent, Desramaults’ ascent to fame began after the passing of his father thrust him into the role of Chef at the small family-owned Inn and having climbed to prominence by way of a style that trends “new-Nordic” in its focus on foraging and presenting a menu largely crafted by indigenous ingredients the tasting-menu only format is presented as a flurry of small bites slowly evolving in terms of both size and complexity, a total of twenty plates and one beverage served at the cost of just under $200US this particular Tuesday Evening.
Known for its rustic architecture, the dining room really no more than a converted cabin with an elevated platform featuring two tables at the far end affording a wide view of the room, it was after seeing and hearing tale of the restaurant’s evolution and focus on sustainability that a seat was finally taken and with everything from butter to charcuterie, cheese and bread made in house there is little doubt that the team of fifteen Chefs and Stages who also function as servers is incredibly in-tune with the Chef’s concept, each item presented with thorough detailing and plenty of pride shown.
Criticized by some, recently, for becoming too Vegetable-focused and thereby forgoing some of the wild-caught game presented at meals past, there is little doubt that a meal at In de Wulf focuses strongly on the local wilderness as well as that of nearby France, but whether presented with a broad leaf of Sorrel topped in Chicken Skin or a delicate tart marrying Radish to Goat Cheese the flavors always seem to come across with a bold confidence and understanding of what it is like to truly embrace nature, the topped Egg filled with Dogfish and Young Peas dazzling with a base of custard that came across as both smooth and vibrant simultaneously.
No doubt a place where Bread and Butter will prove irresistible to all but the most restrained, the Sourdough also offered at De Superette in some ways redefining the genre with a robust crust that tastes lightly burnt around a crumb that is nutty yet as soft as Wonderbread back home, the arrival of silverware announces the start of In de Wulf’s larger items and starting off with a chilled soup of Cauliflower and skimmed Buttermilk Cheese with Acacia Flowers the menu rapidly moves through a vegetable foray unlike almost anything seen Stateside, the White Asparagus made the star with Squid taking a backseat while the Runner Bean porridge went sour only to be brought back into context by a small toast of melted cheese with Wild Onions and fresh Horseradish.
At this point turning to more meaty items, a short period dining by candlelight remedied by one of the Chefs being sent to flip a breaker, there was certainly no lack of power when it came to Lobster poached in butter with a stock of its own carapace and coral, the followup titled “Zurkelstoemp” literally seeing a small Potato cut from an Ash crust at tableside with each diner encouraged to mash it with Egg Yolk and a variety of foraged Sorrels.
Seeing wolffish on a menu for the first time, the Atlantic bottom-dweller surprisingly mild when served adjacent Leeks and a foamy Stew of its Bones, the aromatics were upped significantly by a lone ravioli stuffed with Pork Trotters, Tails and Mustard in a vibrant green bath of Spinach and Elderberries, the fatty cut of lamb to follow offset by Lovage and charred Rhubarb while a final savory of 8-week aged Pigeon disproved any rumors of Desramaults losing his curveball as funky flavors came across in-full from flesh that may as well have melted without use of teeth.
Not really expecting much from dessert, the table next to mine having already completed dinner that was perhaps expedited by the staff as the couple had spent nearly a quarter of the time making out, it was with great surprise that each of the three courses, as well as mignardises, were actually quite pleasant, the first going bitter by degrees with Buttermilk and Beetroot before progressing to charred Berries beneath ice cream made from Pineapple Weed, the “Goat’s Curd, Daisy” described as a ‘lifecycle’ as the flower feeds the local livestock whose milk is used to make the custard beneath.
Updating Gaufre Liege, the famous waffles made with pearl sugar found on any number of Belgian streets, may seem a fool’s folly given the traditions and expectations involved, but “Handmade in Bruges…ever since” Go.fre set out with just this concept in mind when launching it’s made-and-dipped-to-order Waffle on a Stick concept, and judging by lines seen over the course of three visits to the city both locals as well as tourists seem to have embraced it.
In reality a very tiny storefront, the clerk isolated to a space no larger than a couple square meters where hot irons and baths of liquid chocolate flank both sides allowing him to do his duties without taking a step, Go.fre ironically lies directly across the street from old-favorite Chez Albert and with prices starting at €2.50 for a naked waffle while dipped and topped options max out at just four Euros the competition for clients is undoubtedly fierce, each offering their own downfalls and benefits.
Not accounting for authenticity as relates to delivery, but every bit on par with the better places in Belgium with regard to a stretchy batter cooked just long enough to melt sugar pearls and lightly brown the top, Go.fre waffles are offered pre-made and boxed for gifting to those interested, but having tried both there is no doubt that made-to-order is the way to go for those dining with chocolate still dripping, the Miel-Chocolate a definite winner for those looking for something sweet while the Dark Chocolate is not as bitter as some, though some of this may indeed have been a result of crispy cocoa orbs that added a strong textural contrast.
Belgian Waffle – House Molten Chocolate, House Whipped Cream
Located in Bruges with recent fame for its “Extra Large Homemade Waffles,” Lizzie’s Wafels at Sint Jakobsstraat 16 seems almost American in its concept and with a mostly-English speaking full-house midday on Tuesday assumptions of targeting tourists was confirmed mere minutes after entry, the staff not particularly pleasant though the Waffles themselves are quite good despite prices higher than most and turn and burn cash-only pricing.
Not a place to sit and linger, the line always present despite seating for approximately twenty when accounting for the large table in back, Lizzie’s sticks to the classic Brussels version of Waffle and doubling the size on most while charging a la carte for each topping the total for one is likely to trump €12 even before accounting for beverages, teas and coffee outsourced from a variety of purveyors.
Waiting less than ten minutes after ordering for a hot waffle, the made-to-order item best shared by at least two as it really is quite large, it was with housemade Chantilly and Molten Chocolate that the crisp exterior was topped and taking a first bite the texture was a textbook balance of crunch over wispy interior, the Chocolate and Whipped cream slowly soaking each square indent but never compromising the taste of mildly malted batter.
Vegetables, herbs and flowers – walk through our garden, inspired by Michel Bras
Asparagus from Sijsele – grilled with kimchi, mousseline with smoked bone marrow and cod roe
Goose liver – smoked eel, radish, bergamot and aniseed
Meringue – Mango, Goose Liver, Coca Cola (Kitchen Snack)
Challans duck – prepared in hay with red beet and liquorice jus
Cheese Cart – Marcona Almonds, Apricot Jam, Fig Jam
Lemon – abstract combination of lemon with Thai pepper and coriander
Snickers – chef’s guilty pleasure
Mignardises
Take Home Chocolate
Always hoping for splendor when entering one of the “World’s Best Restaurants” it was with the same expectations as usual that the car was parked in Zedelgem and with the remote location rousing images peaceful meals like Michel Bras or Azurmendi the experience at Hertog Jan started off beautifully, but rapidly declined to the point of requesting a seat change followed by a strong desire to stand up and leave.
Owned and operated by Gert De Mangeleer and Joachim Boudens with a third Michelin Star arriving in late 2011 and reconfirmed in 2015 after construction converted a nearly 200-year-old barn into a dining space where floor-to-ceiling windows surround a simple wood and brick room with leather wrapped ‘office chairs’ pulled up to white linen tables, Hertog Jan is strongly focused on nature’s simplicity and doing its best to source all produce from its own gardens there is little doubt that the food itself is a glorious exploration of Belgium’s past, present and future – the problems encountered not a result of anything done by Chef De Mangeleer or his Kitchen Staff but rather a Maitre D’ who chose to let a party of nearly fifty local socialites grow out of control to the point where Hertog Jan’s noise level resembled that of an elementary school cafeteria or a particularly raucous wedding.
Not one to regularly fault a restaurant for its patrons, as such *trying* to overlook the noise that was not at all ignorable despite the party being placed in a “private room” where the service staff never bothered to close the door, it was nonetheless that the meal got underway with a forgettable €14 Mocktail served alongside the most expensive bottled water seen in Belgium, the longest of De Mangeleer’s degustations pre-selected when making the reservation and all nine courses served as clinking glasses, clapping and giddy screams occasionally burst forth from a continuous low-roar.
Surely a talented kitchen, the opening bites of Avocado Mousse, Headcheese and airy Pommes Puree with Coffee, Vanilla and Mimolette all memorable, as was the warm Sourdough with a robust crust and plenty of whole grains served with local Farmhouse Butter plus Cumin Spread, Hertog Jan’s “INTEGRAL” menu officially began with marinated seabass dressed in a splash of seasonal herbs and vegetables, the thin packages assembled of shaved Pumpkin doing a beautiful job of mellowing Passion fruit with White Chocolate, Pepper and Shellfish with just a sprinkle of Fleur de Sel.
Paying tribute to Michel Bras with a spiral of Vegetables, herbs and flowers cooked individually before moving ever-so-slowly to White Asparagus beneath creamy Bone Marrow and grated Cod Roe lightly spiced, the first ‘wow’ on the menu was provided by sliced Radishes in a vibrant broth alongside smoked eel rolled around Goose Liver, the textures as bold as the flavors with the overall effect far greater than the sum of its parts.
Offered a visit to the kitchen, and an empty promise that the rest of the meal would be expedited to avoid further annoyance from the party, return to dining room found new seating a bit further from the annoyances and after another lengthy delay a large slice of Duck roasted in hay was presented, the plating and flavors both equally dramatic as a splatter of beetroot was lightly tinged in licorice.
Quickly presented the cheese cart, a great selection highlighted by Belgian favorites as well as a few truly unique options from Scandanavia, it was once again another lengthy delay that preceded desserts and Mignardises, the Lemon shards not particularly compelling while the “Chef’s Guilty Pleasure” was a smile inducer in both its entirely familiar taste as well as its vast array of textures.
Housemade Copa, House Churned Butter, Sourdough, Danish Cheese, House Confiture
Egg Skillet with Foraged Mushrooms, Leeks, Woodland Herbs, Hard Cheese
Spelt Bread with Jam and Frangipane
Bread Pudding
Chocolate Chip and Peanut Butter Puddle Cookies
Owned by Kobe Desramaults, the man whose announced pending closure of In de Wulf took the world by surprise in late 2015, De Superette in Gent immediately jumped to the top of a culinary “to-do” list the minute reservations were secured for his Michelin 1* restaurant in Dranouter, the meal enjoyed just past 09h00 every bit as memorable as the one to be had near the French border later that evening.
Truly an all-day operation, lunch and dinner offered along with breakfast while several bakers arrive before dawn to make sure leavening items are progressing while preparing the wood ovens for a busy day, De Superette sees Desramaults teaming with two other with a focus on high quality organic breads baked in the old tradition, the execution truly remarkable with such dedication that the restaurant actually generates embers for the grill from the wood used to heat the oven made of stone.
A relaxing space with a kitchen that gives those interested the opportunity to see nearly every aspect of bread production, as well as unique things like apples being roasted over direct flame to make apple juice or jam, De Superette takes the traditional “coffee house” vibe to new levels with tableside service as well as grab n’ go options, both investigated to the fullest over the course of a 60 minute stay.
Opting for the complete breakfast in addition to several pastries it was with WiFi barely logged into that the first of several items began to arrive and with good coffee served black via pour-over next to rosy Apple Juice first bites of the Kouign Amann sent the mind spinning – questions arising as to whether any previously experienced even came close to this degree of caramelization atop melted butter, the answer a resounding no after subsequent bites while the Pain aux Chocolat was equally archetypical with a robust shell overlying arches of lamination around pipelines of melted dark chocolate.
Deciding savories were in order, the meat, cheese and butter all made either in-house or at In de Wulf, a board of Copa, Butter, Sourdough, Soft Cheese and Confiture soon arrived next to a scalding cast-iron skillet with two runny eggs topped in foraged Mushrooms, Leeks, Woodland Herbs and hard Cheese added after baking with each taste showing the benefits of passion and product sourcing as the pork literally melted on the tongue while the makeshift scramble was woodsy with a great juxtaposition of textures whether placed on Toast or eaten by itself.
Taking the rest to go, a total bill just under €30 a bit pricey but worth every cent, it was later that afternoon that four more items were enjoyed as a snack and although the streets of Bruges were a slightly different scene than the dining room at Guldenspoorstraat 21 the results were no less impressive as both cookies felt like someone had upgraded American ingredients simply by trying harder, the Bread Pudding filled with all sorts of texture from fruit, nuts, chocolate and custard while the toothsome Spelt Bread saw Frangipane’s sweetness put to good use overlying a thin layer Berry Jam.
Located in the upscale environs of the Place du Grand Sablon with a sprawling space and seating that far exceeds many other patisseries or chocolatiers, Wittamer is perhaps best assessed as Belgium’s answer to Laduree, the collection perhaps even larger with prices not quite as excessive.
Originally opened in 1910, the story of an immigrant following his dream giving way to a modern dynasty, Wittamer is now managed by a son and daughter team and with locations now found internationally the concept continues to evolve and create while at the same time maintaining one foot planted firmly in its family-owned history.
Arriving just past 07h00, the shelves just being filled by elegant cakes and tarts with viennoiserie still warm, it was with a rather stern warning that indoor photography is “forbidden” that selections were made, the waffles and icecream not available until later but a half-dozen pastries requested to the tune of €19.10.
Taking goods to the streets, the warmth of the Almond Croissant and Pain aux Raisin perceptible through the bag, it was with shattering flakes of pastry that bites were taken of each item, the buttery caverns inside each lightly touched by their accoutrements while a cream-filled Croissant maintained good structure despite custard speckled with vanilla bean.
Impressed to this point, high marks for texture a bit lost in an Apple Tart that was unfortunately soggy and not particularly well flavored by fruit, Wittamer righted the ship immediately by way of a just-stacked Mille-Feuille that crackled to fork pressure with the same smooth filling as the Cream Croissant, the Coconut Meringue Cake so light that a few less grams would have seen it levitating as delicate shavings of dark chocolate flew to the air with each forkful and slowly floated to the ground.
Marinated Salmon with Horseradish and Turnips, Glazed Almonds, Pie of Tomato and Olive Tapenade, Beignet of Boursin Cheese and Duke of Berkshire Pork, Burratta with Tomato Sorbet and Zucchini in Pesto
Olive Oil, Butter from Flanders, Cereal Sourdough, White Roll
Marinated filet of Meagre, ‘Oeuf a la Neige’ with spices, Baby Squid, Anchovy Cream
White Asparagus, Flan of ‘Duke of Berkshire’ Ham, Black Truffle Vinaigrette
Slightly smoked Salmon, Oil of Crustacean, Green Herbs
Roasted Langoustine and Goose Liver, Marinated Eggplant, Seaweed and Lemongrass Infusion
Roasted Young Cockerel and Sweetbreads in Breadcrumb Crust, Leg stuffed with ‘Oud Brugge’ Cheese, Green Asparagus, Wild Mushrooms, Morels
Cheese Trolly, Fruit Bread, Fig Chutney
Strawberries and Rhubarb
Chocolate Textures and Caramel
Mignardises, Cocoa Egg with Coffee Cream
Originally planning a trip to Belgium shortly after In de Wulf announced an imminent shutter at the end of 2016 it was with some surprise that research uncovered De Karmeliet’s plan to do similar by the middle of December, Geert Van Heecke ‘s Michelin 3* in Bruges considered by many to be the most rarified dining room in all of Belgium with the Chef himself somewhat of a national treasure in terms of championing the country’s cuisine.
Holding the highest Red Guide accolades since 1996, Chef van Hecke having stated in the past that he wished to retire at the age of sixty having originally opened De Karmeliet at age 27 in 1983, there is little doubt that the Chef’s resume shines as brightly as any in Belgium with training at the elbow of names like Chapel and Ducasse, the €230 “Brugge Die Scone” menu consisting of seven courses flanked on both ends with bonuses and an expected time at the table of just under four-hours with an admittedly protracted pace.
Truly a refined room, the heavy carpet and artwork both lending a bourgeois air to crisp linens and plenty of polished silver, diners are greeted with a basket of potato crisps topped in cheese and paprika while they are allowed to peruse the menu and within moments of making a selection a flurry of nibbles begins arriving, the tiny Tomato tartlette glistening beneath Olive Tapenade while a donut filled with creamy Cheese and Ham burst with flavor, but not a hint of oil at all.
A bit disappointing in bread service, the lightly salted butter from Flanders deserving far better than the dry White Roll though the Cereal Sourdough was good, but not great, the official degustation began with a meaty filet of Meagre alongside a Floating Island of lightly spiced Meringue with several more components of sea life including a lightly poached Clam, baby Squid, cream of Anchovy and a chlorophyll-rich Seaweed crisp.
Trending in step with the rest of Europe’s Asparagus obsession, this menu as well as every other early-Summer tasting featuring both white and green stalks at some point during the meal, course two placed White Asparagus alongside supple slices as well as a flan of ‘Duke of Berkshire’ Ham, the boldness of the plate further enhanced by preserved dollops of Black Truffle while a follow-up of smoked Salmon danced beneath a creamy mousse of the same fish with oil of Crustacean and poignant herbal aromatics at its base.
Never trending ‘heavy’ despite Geert’s French training and deft hand with sauces as well as cream, savories were concluded with a one-two punch of roasted Langoustine and Goose Liver with Aubergine followed by a roasted male chicken served alongside sweetbreads and spring mushrooms as well as vegetables, the braised leg of the bird amongst the very best bites in Belgium as it had been stuffed with melted ‘Oud Brugge’ Cheese.
Truly a family affair, the matriarch of the family greeting tables early on and later acting as the resident Fromagier, Cheeses from De Karmeliet prove to be the most Belgium-centric of all the restaurants visited in the country and allowing Ms. Van Heecke to guide the decision process all five slices were as aged to perfection, the sweets to follow all well crafted in classic tradition without a hint of ‘exotic fruit’ to be seen anywhere.
Based out of Bruges with a location now in Antwerp and chocolates offered at elite shops and restaurants throughout Belgium, The Chocolate Line by Dominique Persoone is considered by some to be one of the most innovative Chocolate Shops in all of Europe, a quick look at her collection showing influences coming from East and West with Historical favorites equally well crafted at a price that proves a bargain considering the quality of each tablet, praline and truffle.
Smaller than many of the country’s elite chocolatiers, the store bordering on ‘crowded’ with glass cases lining one side, shelves on the other with a workshop behind the counter in back, those entering The Chocolate Line are immediately struck by the sheer variety of options and with several different boxes available the question becomes one of personal preference and just how much each guest chooses to splurge.
Open until 18h30 seven days a week, a bit later than Dumon or The Old Chocolate House with a better selection than both, temptation at The Chocolate Line comes in several forms with pralines being the most prevalent, the newest collection taking a look at the flavors of the world with a particular focus on China and India but also with items as unique as Chocolate infused with Tomato and Basil called the “Italien.”
Offering several unique molds for the confections, some shaped like Buddha, Apples or Corncobs truly ornate, flavors ranging from Dark Ganache to Lychee and Ginger were particularly intriguing, the Saffron Curry as bold as might be expected while Pure Criollo was spicy without being too much so, the best bite of the group coming from the Walnut topped Milk Chocolate with a bittersweet interior, though the white chocolate Nougat was also quite great.
Welcoming Finger Foods – Cucumber with Tobiko and Vinegar / Seasame with Mozzarella and Aloe Vera / Cake of Green Olive and Anchovy / Monkfish with Smoked Eel Mousse / Potato with Mustard and Manchego / Chicken Skin with Goose Liver, Apple, Red Onion
Bread – Rye, Cereal Sourdough, Baguette with Watercress, Butter, Olive Oil, Pepper, Smoked Salt, Fleur de Sel
Garden on Your Plate – Asparagus, Fines Herbes, Pea Pudding, Garlic Blossoms, Grains
Nougat – Peanut, Calamansi, Yogurt, Kaffir Lime, Passion Fruit
Strawberries – Gariguette, Fennel, Granny Smith Apples, Lavender
Speculoos Smile – Speculoos, Milk Jam, Canele
Located approximately 7 kilometers from Antwerp, in a large house built in the late 1800s, Bart de Pooter’s Pastorale Restaurant has held two Michelin Stars since 2007 and essentially making a dining destination out of the small town of Reet the Chef promises to offer only things Extraordinary throughout the course of a meal, the pledge found to be almost entirely truthful from beginning to end.
Offering several menus, the “Sensation I Expression” a comprehensive 11-course experience taking a look at de Pooter’s classics and items taken in-step with the season, it was just past 11h30 that a seat was taken at the far end of a dining room decorated with a wood spiral, the contemporary feel of the restaurant furthered by LED screens with moving wireframes and a statue featuring a golden astronaut conducting a symphony outdoors.
Served by a team of four throughout the 210-minute meal, pacing as well as atmosphere compromised by a table of four loudly-conversing Energy Specialists at an adjacent table that kept rotating out members for a large meeting upstairs, it was mere moments after ordering and declining wine service that six stone pillars each arrived topped with welcoming finger foods, each a brilliant bite with the chicken skin and olive cake particularly memorable.
Palate opened wide by the diversity of snacks it was after a short delay that Pastorale’s bakery sent forth a trio of breads with a half-dozen condiments, the rustic sourdough loaf still warm and requested as seconds later in the afternoon as the crusty texture and supple crumb was simply too good to resist.
Not entirely certain where the snacks and amuses end or where the menu itself began it was nonetheless that a Michel Bras inspired “Garden on Your Plate” arrived featuring Asparagus, Pea Pudding, Garlic Blossoms plus several grains and with light acid from the vinaigrette leading nicely into Grapefruit paired to Mackerel with Lettuce alongside Fresh Cheese de Pooter showed the first of several plates that prove great skill in pairing divergent ingredients, a similar balance struck by meaty Cod with Legumes and creamy Whey.
Going heavier as the meal progressed, butter poached segments of Lobster tail dancing in a broth of smoked butter with Sea Lavender and Tarragon, the followup of Sweetbreads with Morels, Puffed Cereal and Oatmeal bathed in “Bear’s” Garlic was truly a showstopper in terms of unanticipated taste as well as texture, especially when compared to the followup of Wagyu Shoulder that seemed as if it were brought in from another kitchen as the combination of Kimchee, Black Beans and Soy gave it an Americanized Chinese Take-Out flavor.
Smiling at the kitchen’s choice to offer Goose Foie Gras in the place where the Carte du Fromage normally arrives, the arrangement with Roasted Cauliflower, Curry and Golden Raisins actually eating much like a composed warm cheese course, it was onward to sweets that De Pastorale’s menu marched onward, the Passion Fruit orb easily cast aside from Nougat and Peanuts while the followup of Strawberries with Fennel, Apples and Lavender struck a fine balance of sweet and aromatic, the full-sized “Speculoos Smile” generally reserved for large parties proving a perfectly fitting end to a meal that will surely leave most beaming.
Desire, 72% Single Origin Chocolates, Caramel Duck, Pistachio Marzipan
Italian by heritage and Belgian by birth, Pierre Marcolini was awarded the title of “World Pastry Champion” by age 31 and already a giant in the Chocolate industry by age of 45, his passion renowned by both fans and collaborators to create some of the world’s best confections having now led to boutiques throughout many of Europe and Japan’s largest cities.
Up until recently known as a brilliant chocolatier with Bean-to-Bar ethics blended to the sort of creativity that sees him sourcing exotic fruits and herbs for pralines and truffles, Marcolini’s collection has now begun to also take a look back at the Chef’s roots in pastry and with a keen sense for what “works” paired to peerless ingredients the results of everything in the store is impressive to taste as it is to look at.
Opting to visit the Antwerp store, time and location simply best fit to plans, entry to the store was met by a smiling blond woman who provided pressure-free white gloved service, the eventual choice being ten items including five chocolates and five pastries at a total of €21.50.
Taking items to the streets, no room to eat within the elegant clean-lined store, it was in a small courtyard that first bites were taken and doing best to move light to heavy the flavor of both the Pistachio and Speculoos Macaron were spot-on, the light cookie shattering to the tooth with filling slowly dissipating.
Smaller than many in terms of the Éclairs, each perhaps double the size of an adult index finger, suffice it to say that Marcollini’s Choux holds up to anything found in France or Belgium, the fillings each smooth and indulgent with a particular nod to the espresso version that walks a tightrope between bitter and sweet ever-so deftly.
Told by the clerk that the exotic “Desire” was her favorite item in the store, and pairing it with four more pralines for good measure, the flavor of the gold-wrapped candy was that of a Snickers married to fruits as well as spices, the flavor as complex as the chocolates were each pure and delicate making for an overall beautiful experience that justifies spending a few extra dollars above ‘average.’
