Endo Edibles

January 19, 2014
12:41 PM
by: Uhockey

Embers, Las Vegas NV

Embers

Aviation – Gin, Luxardo, Lemon Juice, Crème De Violette

Blackberry Pepino – Tequila, Honey, Jalapenos, Blackberry

Bacon Wrapped Dates – Toasted Almonds, Blue Cheese, Pomegranate Reduction

Bacon Carbonara Flatbread – Bacon Alfredo Sauce, Parmesan Cheese, Crispy Bacon

Tandoori Spiced Chicken Skewers – Grilled Flatbread, Curry Spinach, Fresh Cheese, Sweet Chili

White Chocolate Cinnamon French Toast – Grand Marnier Berries, Toasted Granola

Apple Croissant Bread Pudding with Vanilla Gelato

Generally skewing my dining out towards Saturdays as to allow for a lazy Sunday, the Martin Luther King extended weekend conveniently allowed me to visit a spot just down the street for Sunday brunch with a new friend – the noon start time of the AFC Championship, a 20% off coupon, and wonderful customer service from a reservationist named May further sweetening the deal promised by a creative brunch menu. Billed as an American Grille and located in upscale Boca Park near Sambalatte and Panera it was just before noon when we arrived at Embers and opting for a seat at the bar instead of the small dining room in order to afford full vantage of the dual plasma screens it would not be long before we were greeted by the friendly bartender and with menus presented plus a round of stiff but well-crafted $8 cocktails soon in hand the meal that followed would unfold in three acts, each piping hot and nicely presented at a veritable bargain even before the discount. Opting to pair sweet with savory at each course it was with six dates curled in crispy bacon that found adept balance in funky bleu and light acid that we began and moving on to the smoky yet smooth juxtaposition of bacon and garlic Alfredo atop crisp bread the hits continued to arrive as round two served up at least eight ounces of aromatic, juicy chicken amidst mild curry on one plate and the dish of the afternoon on the other, two slices of custard imbued French Toast with light cocoa notes serving to mellow fresh, boozy fruits as granola added just a touch of sweetness and plenty of crunch. Battling satiety from prior means yet still debating a third proper course as the first half of the game wound to an end, it was with a bit of sadness that we ended up passing on both the pancakes and the fried chicken sliders, but unable to resist dessert it was in the restaurant’s bread pudding that we invested our last bites – the warm buttery croissants layered with fresh apples and soaked through with custard before being crowned with a ball of gelato and finished table side with rich crème anglaise, the send result a slowly melting masterpiece on par with some of the city’s best and plenty of impetus to head back in the future for the chicken, pancakes, and a second round.

http://emberslasvegas.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Dessert, Embers, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pizza, Pork

January 19, 2014
8:30 AM
by: Uhockey

MTO Cafe, Las Vegas NV

MTO Café

Walnut Tossie

MTO Mini Donuts with Local Honey

Chicken in a Waffle – Bechamel, Fried Chicken, French Fries

Vegan Carrot + Coconut Pancakes with Pecans and Agave

Fat Elvis – French Toast, Banana, Bacon, Peanut Butter, Strawberries, Nutella

Grilled Cheese – Brie, Local Honey, Toasted Walnuts, Brioche

Thanksgiving Burger – Open Faced on Truffle Bread Pudding with Orange-Cranberry Sauce and Mashed Browns

Lavazza Coffee

Always happy to see a chef preaching the ethics of local-seasonal sourcing and scratch-made-to-order cooking, particularly in the breakfast scene, it was unfortunately a rocky start for myself and MTO Café as even before they opened for business a steady trickle of shady “Five Star” reviews began to fill the internet, a trend not uncommon but nonetheless off-putting and causing me pause until more respectable voices were heard…in this case 3 months later. Open seven days a week from breakfast till lunch and already a downtown darling with critics, city hall, and Zappos affiliates it was on a lazy Sunday that a friend and I sat down to a table in airy, charming space just after 8:15 and with on-point service highly praiseful of both Chef Church and owner Ben Sabouri’s vision much of what followed would prove well worth the hyperbole, a total of seven items and nearly as many cups of coffee comprising our 90 minute stay. A menu broad in sections yet well-culled in scope it was with a wide swath that we cut through the options and requesting that items be sent out individually as the kitchen felt fit it was from sweet to savory that the morning progressed, an early offering of doughnuts that came off a touch oily and the doughy bread of the ‘Fat Elvis’ minor disappointments more than offset by fluffy vegan pancakes, creamy brie on lightly sweetened brioche, and superlative proteins such as the fried chicken smothered in béchamel or the tender turkey burger atop savory bread pudding alongside signature “mashed browns,” a crunchy/creamy juxtaposition of butter, brine, and starch. Off to a good start and informed by our server that the new menu is scheduled to debut in just a few weeks I look forward to seeing how MTO evolves over time – early marketing tactics aside this is a spot with ‘destination breakfast’ potential and along with ‘eat’ already a reason for suburbanites and tourists to make their way downtown before dusk.

http://mtocafe.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, MTO Cafe, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork, Waffles

January 19, 2014
7:41 AM
by: Uhockey

Pink Box Doughnuts (Centennial,) Las Vegas NV

Pink Box Doughnuts

CroNut

Key Lime

Banana Cream Pie

Granny’s Apple Pie

Blueberry

Buttermilk

Pink Velvet

Having made it a point to sample through a dozen varieties of Pink Box Doughnuts even before relocating to Las Vegas I knew it would only be a matter of time before I made my way up to Centennial Hills to take a look at their gas station based 24-hr satellite, a promise of fresh daily deliveries at 6:00am driving a Sunday visit where nearly two dozen novel selections and a smiley young clerk stood waiting. Without a doubt the most trendy doughnuttery in town it was with some restraint that I opted for a half-dozen +1 and at a $10 tally the majority of selections were saved for NFL game time snacking, the exceptions being a still-warm $2.25 take on Dominique Ansel’s ‘Cronut’ that unfortunately proved oily, flaccid, and uninspired plus the cocoa-laden pink velvet whose hefty chocolate notes found needed levity in rich, though overly sweet, cream cheese. Moving onward to the rest, much like other quirky “Voodoo inspired” shops across the country standards like the blueberry cake and buttermilk bar proved above average while novelties stole the spotlight, each filled option featuring natural ingredients and both the banana pudding and key lime gel spot-on representations of the iconic pie fillings inside a fluffy leavened pocket. A mixed experience to be sure and a prime example of why places of its ilk rarely appeal to purists I personally look forward to seeing how the company evolves over time…hopefully a bit less cronut/bacon/cereal ‘me too’ in favor of more ambitious ‘outside the box’ thinking a la the Nutty Pig, Salted Caramel Twist, and Cream pies.

https://www.facebook.com/PinkBoxDoughnuts

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pink Box Doughnuts, Pink Box Doughnuts Centennial

January 19, 2014
5:48 AM
by: Uhockey

Jerry’s Famous Coffee Shop, North Las Vegas NV

Jerry’s Famous Coffee Shop

Stawberry Ring – Choux, Bavarian Cream, Whipped Cream, Glazed Strawberries, Chocolate Shell

Jerry’s 50th Anniversary Almond Nugget Cake

7-Layer Carrot Cake

Bread Pudding Cake

Monte Cristo with Hash Browns

Buttermilk Biscuit

Coffee

Largely incapable of sleeping in on weekends and having thus taken it upon myself to explore the Vegas 24/7 dining scene after my morning run a somewhat atypical Sunday would mark my first visit to North Las Vegas, home of Jerry’s Nugget – a casino having celebrated its 50th anniversary just three days prior – and Jerry’s Famous Coffee Shop, the 24/7 retro-modern eatery within. Decidedly different from the Luxe resort-casinos of the southern strip but featuring a gritty sort charm it was just after 5:00am when I arrived at Jerry’s and with a skeleton crew catering to just six other patrons in the large space service was expectedly accommodating with coffee kept brimming throughout as a somewhat slow (likely understaffed) kitchen prepared hot dishes allowing me to focus first on pastry – a collection of over fifty options baked in-house featuring cakes, pies, danishes, donuts, and more. Beginning with the famous “Strawberry Ring” it should first be stated that for a choux-based pastry baked at least 8 hours prior to remain crisp and buttery beneath two types of rich cream speaks volumes to the quality of kitchen and with both textures and flavors aplenty the dish proved wonderful, a lightly sweet take on the Paris-Brest with a portion big enough for two or three more than justifying the $6 tab. Working slowly through the ring with frequent coffee refills as I awaited my sandwich it was with some disappointment that when the Monte Cristo arrived the flavors would only prove average, the fried bread shining while proteins and cheese proved meager in both taste and portion, but propping the dish up with a touch of real maple syrup it should be said that at $1 each, the biscuits at Jerry’s are worth seeking out – an excellent rise and good layer separation beneath a crisp, buttered top. Taking the rest of my order to go, a veritable bargain at $5/slice, suffice it to say that while Jerry’s may not be the best choice in town for a sandwich I’d be hard pressed to name a better choice for cake as each of my three selections shined; the anniversary cake a sort of dulce de leche with buttercream and frangipane vying for top billing over a delicate crumb, the bread pudding featuring two layers of rich pound cake topped with lightly sweetened egg custard and a bruleed top, and the carrot cake dense with cinnamon, nutmeg, carrots, raisins, and walnuts beneath thin ribbons of cream cheese frosting – the best I’ve found in the city to date and a contender for the best I’ve tasted anywhere in years.

http://www.jerrysnugget.com/dining/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Jerry's Famous Coffee Shop, Jerry's Nugget, Las Vegas, Nevada, North Las Vegas, Pork

January 11, 2014
8:13 PM
by: Uhockey

MadHouse Coffee, Las Vegas NV

MadHouse Coffee

Croissant Bread Pudding

White Chocolate Raspberry Macaron

Almond Croissant

Nutellamisu

Americano

With 9 on the Plate not yet serving up sweets and myself running low on caffeine it was to MadHouse Coffee that I walked after dinner and always hoping to find a new, local coffee shop to love and support I’ll simply say that save for the kitschy décor and 24-hour service there isn’t a whole lot to like about MadHouse at all. Locally owned and operated with a menu of drinks both classic and novel plus a collection of “pastries baked fresh on the premises” it with a simple Americano that my experience began and faring well enough at a mere $2.50 it was onward to pastry that I moved, the promise of ‘100% Charent Butter’ ostensibly promising the quality of Echire but not a single item better than average, with one in particular an early contender for worst thing I’ll eat in 2014. Starting first with a $3.24 Almond Croissant it would be hard to imagine something more doughy and less crisp coming from 7-Eleven and moving right along to a $2.50 White Chocolate Raspberry Macaron with decent crackle yielding gummy crumb and sweet ‘frosting’ of a non-descript flavor I sat and wondered exactly what was going on; a brief reprieve found in admirable, albeit microwave-heated bread pudding drizzled in light caramel. At this point sitting with half a macaron and 2/3 of the croissant unfinished it was last, and certainly least that I moved to the ‘nutellamisu” and while certainly not the prettiest presentation nothing could have prepared me for the taste – an acrid, sour, and questionably spoiled cream cheese ‘pudding’ debauchery of the Italian classic that tasted nothing of Nutella or Tiramisu, a second bite of the $3.95 cup yielding similar results and landing it plus the remaining pastries in the trash as I left the store thankful I’d not yet finished my coffee so as to cleanse my palate.

http://www.madhousecoffeelasvegas.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Macaroon, MadHouse Coffee, Nevada, Tiramisu

January 11, 2014
6:45 PM
by: Uhockey

9 On The Plate, Las Vegas NV

9 on the Plate

Tofu Kimchi, Fish Cake in Peppers, Mushrooms and Onions

Honey Chicken Wings – Soy Sauce, Roasted Nuts, Honey

Bossam – Braised Pork Belly, Pickled Radish and Zucchini

Crab Pancake – Scallion, Calamari, Pepper, Soy

Deep Fried Rice Cake – Macadamia Nut, Sweet Tomato Pepper Puree

Barley Water

Having mentioned to a local chef/friend a week prior that I’d been wanting to further investigate the local Korean dining market without being forced to rely on K-Town BBQ as a ‘reference standard’ I was admittedly a bit surprised to hear him suggest 9 on the Plate – a restaurant I’d driven by daily without paying second thought while stationed in temporary housing, but one whose low priced tapas-style menu seemed perfect…a restaurant.com certificate further sweetening the deal to the tune of four impressive plates and a complimentary trio of condiments for less than $30 after tax and tip. A large, modern space with terrible music but superlative service and a well culled menu as yet lacking desserts it was just after 6:30pm when I arrived and finding the space devoid of other patrons for the first fifteen minutes I spent some time picking my servers brain prior to placing an order and deferring on suggested bugoli in place of personal favorites from his long list of suggestions it would not be long before dinner began; a welcoming trio spanning flavors sharp, spicy, saline, and umami awakening the palate for things to come. Moving on to plates ordered as more guests arrived and having requested dishes arrive in logical progression it was the fluffy crab pancake that arrived first and laced with peppers the sweetness of the crab proved an adequate foil, a touch of soy bringing flavors to a point and transitioning well into the sweet, sticky wings – undoubtedly the plate of the evening and something I’d love to see the restaurant adopt in whole bird form once business picks up, though a subsequent course of crispy pork belly served with simply pickled vegetables was nearly as impressive…particularly with crispy glutenous rice cakes in thick, smoky ‘ketchup’ riding shotgun.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/9-on-the-Plate/441396489262765

Posted in 9 On The Plate, Crab, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

January 11, 2014
1:55 PM
by: Uhockey

German Bread Bakery, Las Vegas NV

German Bread Bakery

Bear Claw

Bee Sting Cake

Pretzel Croissant

Apple Strudel

Almond Twist

Owned and operated by two of the most pleasant ladies I’ve yet to encounter in Las Vegas one would be hard pressed to name a more ‘authentic’ ethic destination in the city – Asian, European, Latin American, or otherwise. Featuring a wide variety of baked goods and imports both sweet and savory straight out of Deutschland at prices representing a veritable bargain compared to many of the area’s artisan bakeries it was plain on entry to the small shop that things were bound to be good when I heard staff and patrons communicating nearly exclusively in German and with no less than two dozen offerings available the only difficulties presented by German Bread Bakery was not ordering too much…eventually settling on a mere five selections at a total of $10.89. Focused on the classics, particularly those most familiar to me growing up to a Hungarian-German heritage, it was with an apple strudel that my tasting began and reheated quickly in the microwave I’d strongly suggest others do the same, the result a light trickle of butter running from the flaky dough as fresh apples and light sweetness found balance in hefty cinnamon notes and delicate pastry. Moving next to two almond options it was perhaps an effect of my 2pm arrival that the sole remaining bear claw was found to be a bit doughy though the frangipane was well utilized and moving on to the laminated layers of the almond twist I’d wager that no better exists in the city, a light glaze overlying toasted almonds as each shattering bite made a mess of my table and floor, a similar result found in the signature ‘pretzel croissant’ as buttery salted layers gave way to a soft crumb speckled with seeds and flavors harkening the Bavarian classic but ever more delicate. Last but certainly not least, my final taste of German Bread Bakery on this day was the classic Bienenstich – a dish rarely found but always astounding when done well and in this case done perfectly with light vanilla pastry cream proving a marvelous balance to rich almond/honey/butter crunch topping all anchored by the yeasty yellow cake – a must order more than worth a trip to both fans and those (unfortunately) not yet familiar.

http://www.germanbreadbakerylasvegas.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, Dessert, Food, German Bread Bakery, Las Vegas, Nevada

January 11, 2014
11:33 AM
by: Uhockey

M&M Soul Food Café, Las Vegas NV

M&M Soul Food Café

Fried Pork Chop, Grits, Buttermilk Biscuit, 2 Eggs Over Easy

Cornbread Pancakes

Chicken Breast and Waffles

Chicken Thigh

Banana Pudding

Sweet Potato Pie, light whip

A long-term member of my Las Vegas short list I’d originally planned to visit M&M Soul Food with a friend over a year prior when the flu confined me to my hotel room and as such perhaps it should have been no surprise when it was myself suddenly facing a last minute cancellation this time around, the resulting solo visit a bit of letdown in more ways than one. Obviously not brought up on “Soul Food” but raised close enough to Detroit that it played a big part in childhood memories I’ve since sought out, those looking for collards, chitlins, or gumbo should be aware that none are available before noon on weekends (despite the online annotated 11am,) nor is fried chicken beyond the wing (though if you ask nicely they may be able to accommodate after a substantial delay…IE, the thigh arrived with dessert,) and moving past these inconveniences be advised that service, while friendly, is constrained – a pair of young ladies and an elderly fellow managing a capacity crowd of ~80 with wait times up to an hour during my stay. Moving past the ‘issues’ and onto the food and décor suffice it to say that the interior replicates the façade and with a small kitchen at work behind makeshift walls the food arrived at an awkward pace with mixed results, particularly in the proteins where both pork chop and breast were dry and flavorless despite excellent, crispy breading while the thigh was expectedly more succulent but also far better seasoned, as if from an entirely different batch. Speaking to the rest, mostly carbs and a pair of over easy eggs, it was in these items that M&M shined – the waffles a soft wheat batter and the ‘cornbread’ a pair of pan fried flapjacks needing only a touch of syrup to balance the savory notes, something neither the sweet potato pie nor the banana pudding would require at all – the former a well done classic and the second far more dense than any take on the dish I’ve found and all the better for it, a sort of bread pudding made with only a bit of liquid and a lot of ripe bananas juxtaposing softened nilla wafers.

http://mmsoulfoodcafe.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, M&M, M&M Soul Food, M&M Soul Food Café, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

January 11, 2014
6:56 AM
by: Uhockey

Blueberry Hill Family Restaurant, Las Vegas NV

Blueberry Hill Family Restaurant

Coffee

Chocolate Oreo Pancakes – Four pancakes cooked with our 40 year old special recipe chocolate buttermilk pancake batter with gobs of real crumbled Oreo cookies cooked right in the batter, then topped with our homemade vanilla icing. Finished with more crumbled Oreo cookies sprinkled on top of the pancakes

Blueberry Hill Style Monte Cristo Sandwich – Turkey and ham smothered with Swiss cheese, grilled on our own French toast bread with Strawberry Compote

Red Velvet Cake

Contrary to the opinions of some, as much as I enjoy fine dining I share equal passion for dining experiences many gourmands would consider ‘low brow,’ particularly at breakfast, and taking this fact into account it was with much enthusiasm that I finally visited locally grown 24/7 staple Blueberry Hill just prior to 6am Saturday morning. Situated on Decatur and the largest of a handful of locations spanning the city the look and feel of the restaurant can best be summed up as an upscaled Denny’s with better coffee alongside a more creative menu and given my early hour of arrival the service was exemplary – an older couple entering just after me the restaurant’s only other patrons. A skeleton crew in the kitchen largely focused on preparing the day’s housemade cakes and pastries it was with little delay that decisions were made from the extensive menu and orders placed I chatted with my waitress at length, the longtime veteran of Blueberry Hill keeping coffee filled to the brim and commending my picks while offering suggestions for ‘next time’ – an occurrence that will be sooner rather than later given the quality of what soon arrived. Beginning savory and moving to sweet it was with a loaded un-fried Monte Cristo that I began and deferring standard jam with a request for the housemade strawberry compote I’d strongly recommend everyone do the same as the ample sweetness proved a lovely balance to briny ham and smoked turkey…”balance” completely ignored by my second selection, the pillow soft pancakes chock-a-block full of crushed cookies and smeared with frosting identical in flavor to the cream-filling, plus whipped cream for garnish. Sated and heavily caffeinated it was perhaps a bit gluttonous to consider dessert but unable to pass on a rotating cake-case it was with a slice of Red Velvet that I made my departure and waiting until the afternoon to indulge the results were good, if not great, as the cake was moist and rich though I’d have preferred more tang to the icing…a small quibble at $3 for the 11.6oz ‘slice.’

http://www.blueberryhillrestaurants.com/

Posted in Blueberry Hill, Blueberry Hill Family Restaurant, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

January 11, 2014
5:40 AM
by: Uhockey

Dulce Donuts, Las Vegas NV

Dulce Donuts

Buttermilk Bar

Raised Glazed

Cruller

Chocolate Cake

Sour Cream Old Fashioned

Apple Fritter

Always happy to support locally grown businesses a two stop breakfast run on Decatur was planned prior to a Saturday meeting, the first stop for shared provisions at 24-hour Dulce Donuts where a half dozen for myself and a dozen for the crowd set me back a mere $12.50, the owner even kicking in a bonus cup of coffee in thanks for a $1 tip. Calling a day in advance to find out when fresh donuts were most likely and told they were baked throughout the day but “almost always hot at 5:00am” it was just after 5:30 that I arrived and true to word, three varieties were warm to the touch as a pair of men prepared more through a semi-translucent window and starting with this trio the old adage about the early bird getting the worm again proved true; the sour cream a supple sugary meltaway, the fritter’s exterior crunch giving way to light cinnamon folded with apples, and the simple glazed a yeasty pillow amongst the best in Sin City. Fairing less well but still well made the cruller was a bit soft and although eggy inside certainly not meeting the high bar set by Donut Hut while the buttermilk bar was tangy beneath but unfortunately left from an earlier batch and simply dull in comparison to the sour cream – a factor of temperature, I’m nearly certain. Moving last to the chocolate cake, sampled later in the day, it was actually this version that one of my colleagues raved about during our meeting but for myself I found the flavors a bit artificially sweet…deferring all but a bite in favor of another half of a fritter, now cooled but still excellent.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/dulce-donuts-las-vegas

Posted in Breakfast, Dulce Donuts, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

January 4, 2014
8:15 PM
by: Uhockey

Cupkates by Kate, Las Vegas NV

Cupkates by Kate

Red Velvet – red velvet cake, cream cheese frosting

Vanilla Bean – vanilla cake, vanilla buttercream

Snickerdoodle – cinnamon cake, vanilla cinnamon buttercream / Chocolate Lab – chocolate cake, chocolate buttercream / Coco Cream – chocolate cake, vanilla buttercream / Sticky Fingers – caramel cake with white frosting, caramel drizzle

Never ashamed to admit my fondness for cupcakes as a sort of dessert sampler or ‘tasting menu’ and happy to see the ‘fad’ still going strong despite yearly talk of their imminent demise it was with high hopes that I stopped by cutesy Cupkates by Kate at Tivoli Village late Saturday evening only to be met with resounding disappointment on all fronts. Obviously not the shop’s target audience as I’m neither female nor five and certainly not content to be condescended to by the tiny male attendant who refused to sell me a half dozen – one of each flavor – because they only had two dozen left in the store it was begrudgingly that the little fella even broke conversation with another mall employee to accept a Yelp! check-in lowering the $12 dozen to $10, and taking the small plastic clamshell downstairs to enjoy the frustration continued with each bland bite…the saving grace an impressive “sticky fingers” harkening a moist tres leches cake, though certainly not on par with that at Drago Sisters. First taking into account the obscure location plus a layout suggesting a clothing boutique rather than a bakery and then tacking on limited selection, disinterested service, and $1 selections the size of a Ping-Pong ball I really can’t think of a single reason why anyone would visit this store when so many superior options exist nearby…a sentiment I generalize to Tivoli Village as a whole thus far.

http://www.cupkateslv.com

Posted in cupcakes, Cupkates, Cupkates by Kate, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

January 4, 2014
7:00 PM
by: Uhockey

Pop Up Pizza, Las Vegas NV

Pop-Up Pizza

The Main Street – Sauce, Mozzarella, Pepperoni

The White Chapel – Mozzaella, Ricotta, Roasted Garlic Oil, Sauteed Spinach

Garlic Knot

Cinnamon Bombolini with Cream

While New Yorkers or the New York-centric seemingly love to tout the excellence of the “slice,” it can only be said that I don’t get it – a greasy pile of low quality pepperoni on overly sweetened sauce topped with cheap cheese supported by a foldable, dull crust simply is not my idea of pizza and no matter how many try to defend their favorite slice shops or memories of slurping down a 99 cent hunger stop-gap at 2am the fact of the matter is that most of it is no better than Sbarro…a few exceptions noted…and one of them right here in Las Vegas. Dubbed “Pop-Up Pizza” by the folks at downtown’s Plaza hotel and located just off the gaming floor Pop-Up is not a pop up in any true sense of the word, but rather a traditional appearing joint with white tiles, limited seating, and gas ovens behind a selection of pre-made and fresh pies ready to be fired (or refired) plus a few bonus items and with expedited but friendly service it provides a veritable bargain; my total bill coming to $9.47 before tip and delivered to my hands in less than five minutes. Beginning first with the ‘extras,’ both the supple garlic knot and delicate brioche-style donuts with truly impressive house made sweet cream would prove to be quite impressive at 50 cents each and moving on to the pizza itself I’ll simply offer a ‘bravo’ to the persons in charge of sourcing and the team arranging the pies as each component came together beautifully – the sauce tangy but not sweet, the garlic aromatic but not overwhelming the fresh spinach, and the cheese of a whole-milk variety full of flavor and not with oil while the crust, still foldable, had good crunch but ample chew neither adding or detracting from the composition. Still not even remotely close to the quality of many artisan pies but a step in the right direction, particularly for the slice-shop genre, and offering delivery throughout Sin City I still can’t say I ‘get it’ but for those looking for an improved take on the nostalgia of childhood, or drunken nights in Manhattan, this is about as good as it gets.

http://www.popuppizzalv.com/order-online/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pizza, Pop Up Pizza, Pork

January 4, 2014
11:58 AM
by: Uhockey

Wo Fat, Las Vegas NV

Wo Fat

Pressed Almond Duck

Kow Yok / Khau Yoke with Bao (Steamed Pork Belly with Ginger, Shallots, Garlic, Red Fermented Bean Curd, Taucheo)

Spicy Shrimp in Shell

Crispy Kau Chee

Crispy Kau Chee Mein with Pork and Shrimp

Beef Chow Funn with Black Bean Sauce

Having heard things both interesting and exciting about Wo Fat and its Hawaiian influenced Chinese cuisine but not yet able to coax a large enough group to make the visit worthwhile it was with great fortune that following donuts I not only managed to gather five co-diners to experience the small East side restaurant, but that two of the folks involved were already familiar with not only Wo Fat from a prior visit, but also the restaurant’s style from their years in Hawaii. Located in a less than ideal location and not particularly attractive from the outside or within it should suffice to say that a visit to Wo Fat is based more on the food than the ambiance but with service friendly and efficient throughout the off-hour it was with tea and water that the meal began, soon to be followed by a half dozen menu selections – most novel, all well prepared, and a few truly outstanding. Sampling far and wide with suggestions from everyone including our server it was with plethoric portion that each dish arrived and with both the pork and shrimp stuffed kau gee as well as the beef chow funn excellent while cake noodles and shrimp were commendable if not memorable it was in the pork and the duck that the meal truly shined – the former a complex sort of mild char sui with more aromatics and less sugar proving irresistible on soft bao while the later was simply divine, a tender confit of duck beneath crackling almond paste that added just a touch of sweetness for a mere $9.95.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/wo-fat-las-vegas-2

Posted in Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Wo Fat

January 4, 2014
9:57 AM
by: Uhockey

Real Donuts / Sunrise Too Donuts / Donut Hut, Las Vegas NV

Real Donuts

Bavarian, Blueberry Cake, Blueberry Fritter, Sourcream, Buttermilk Bar, Raised Glazed, Reverse Cinnamon Roll, Chocolate Cake, Crumb Cake, Apple Fritter

Having arranged various “foodcrawls” in the past it was with admitted enthusiasm that I entered Real Donuts to gather provisions for Las Vegas’ first (known) donut crawl and with several glistening varieties fresh from the fryer only two challenges arose, the first limiting my order to a dozen and the second delivering the fried dough to the party without sneaking a bite. A small, clean shop with excellent service and a dozen donuts only $10 after tax and a tip it was up against three other doughnutteries that Real would find itself matched and although the occasional contender from Sunrise Too, Master Donuts, or Donut Hut shined it was Real Donuts that proved most consistent across the board. Featuring crispy fritters rife with fruit and low in oil, a textbook old-fashioned sour cream that literally melts on the tongue, and both yeasted and cake options on par with the city’s best it would truly be hard to name a bad one in the bunch – a task I’ll simply discard and suggest futile as I think back on the Blueberry Fritter, a 95 cent daily special I’d suggest worthy of ‘destination’ status.

Sunrise Too Donuts

Raised Twist, Bavarian, Buttermilk Bar, Apple Fritter, Raised Crumb, Maple Long John, Chocolate Sour Cream

Not personally visited but part of the first official Las Vegas Donut Crawl, Sunrise Too would prove to be the mixed bag of the group, a series of valleys and peaks mirroring the local landscape and defined by my two favorite fried treats, the Apple Fritter and the Buttermilk Bar. Beginning first with the fritter it can only be said that this was perhaps the worst I’ve ever found – the texture not only far too oily but nearly inedible with grease I’d classify near-rancid…the sort of thing that could turn a stomach on the pastry forever and such a far cry from the rest of the selections that I wonder if we were peddled a leftover, particularly as the yeasted options were actually quite light; the rise excellent and the texture soft but not ‘chewy’ – a fact highlighted by the juxtaposition of the crumbled cinnamon on the crumb option. Amongst other disappointments I personally found Sunrise’s Bavarian cloyingly sweet and decidedly artificial tasting compared to both Real and Donut Hut, but again finding redemption it was Sunrise’s Buttermilk Bar that proved my favorite item of the tasting, the archetype version loaded with tangy notes beneath sweet glaze and an ethereal texture with obvious visual separation of the cake layer and buttermilk layer on hemisection, a sort of fried coffee cake that makes me want to go back for more of their cake selections…no matter how bad the fritter.

Donut Hut

Blueberry Cake, Strawberry Cake, Chocolate Cake, Bavarian, Coconut Cake, Glazed Twist, Raised Glazed, Cruller, Apple Fritter, Maple Cake, Crumb Cake, Chocolate Raised

The last of the novel contenders on the first Las Vegas Donut Crawl, Donut Hut would prove to be a middle-of-the-pack sort of experience with a few definite “go to” options starring amongst an otherwise mundane cast of dry cake donuts and chewy yeasted selections bolstered by quality glazes. Focusing on what worked as nothing was particularly ‘bad’ the only two things one truly needs to know here are the words Blueberry Cake and (on the weekend only) Cruller, the former on par with the warm version for which folks wait hours at Orange County’s “M +M” and the later a truly remarkable rendition of something infrequently seen and even less frequently well-made, in this case a perfect fried ring of pate a choux with a custard soft center beneath gentle crunch more than worth getting out of bed early for.

Posted in Breakfast, Donut Hut, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Real Donut, Real Donuts, Sunrise Too Donut, Sunrise Too Donuts

January 4, 2014
7:08 AM
by: Uhockey

The Bagel Cafe, Las Vegas NV

The Bagel Café

Coffee

Bread Pudding

Blueberry Bagel with Blueberry Cream Cheese

Griddled (on request) Pecan Roll

Rainbow Cookies

Challah French Toast

Rugulah (Blueberry, Apricot Raisin, Raspberry, Lemon Coconut, Apple Cinnamon)

Failing to understand North America’s fascination with the bagel despite repeated attempts ranging from New York to Montreal it was admittedly with little surprise that I’d not heard of The Bagel Café prior to its mention in a conversation about local pastry but with a convenient location and breakfast menu loaded with personal favorites I knew it would not be long before gave Savvas Andrews’ New York styled shop a chance to shine. A part of the local community since 1995, with a bakery plus deli up front and full service kitchen behind, it was just prior to the restaurant’s 7am opening that I arrived and with a small line of regulars already awaiting entry it was not long before we were ushered in – many heading straight for their bagels and pastries to-go while the rest found a seat amidst friendly, if not overly attentive service that often left coffee empty and empty plates to pile. A sizable menu with knishes, latkes, and matzo brei that will warrant a return it was with a bagel that my meal began and opting for a selection sliced and toasted I’ll simply reference my statement above and say that for once “I got it;” a light crunch over supple center pairing light eggy tones with fresh blueberries and only improved by rich housemade cream cheese. Moving from good to better, both the enormous pecan roll as well as eggy house baked challah were beautifully presented after a quick treatment on the buttered griddle and although I’d have preferred to see the French Toast offered with pure maple syrup (even if at an additional charge) this is a small quibble for what may be the best simple or ‘traditional’ French Toast I’ve had in recent memory, particularly with a portion big enough to share. Last but not least, a limited sampling of the baked goods yielded a quintet of toothsome rugulah – all textbook – plus a final surprise I’ve not seen in ages; a rich half-pound slab of traditional Vanilla and Cinnamon Bread Pudding with the day-old Challah soaked in sweet milk overlying a near-savory custard base strewn with raisins, each layer delicious on its own but combining to form something wholly satisfying both cold at the counter and all the more so when warmed up later that evening.

http://www.thebagelcafelv.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada, The Bagel Cafe

December 31, 2013
11:31 AM
by: Uhockey

“Best of” 2013 – Meals, Savories, Sweets

Fancying 2012 as the best year of my life thus far it was perhaps a fair assumption that things couldn’t get any better in 2013, though little did I know just how lousy it would be as a miserable workplace, inhospitable city, and NHL lockout all conspired to make almost every part of those twelve months unbearable…the “almost” almost entirely defined by those moments spent away from Phoenix, false medical claims, and the sheer lack of moral character infesting my daily life. Happily now away from all that, though with a mortgage still languishing in a slow market, and finding many positives in my life including a new job, new people, and a city worth exploring both on the strip and off it is here that I look back on the better parts of the year that was – and look forward to 2014.

All things being equal, aside from failing to exit the United States for the first time in a number of years, 2013 featured a lot of travel and new places both North, South, East, and West – as always Los Angeles, Chicago, San Francisco, and New York played prominent roles while Portland and the Low Country/Southeast proved every bit as wonderful as rumored not only in regards to the food, but also to the people involved. Always one to travel at the least convenient of times it was also in Boston and Washington DC that I found some great meals and excellent hockey, though the Marathon bombing and Government shutdown most certainly were not part of my original plans, and rounding out the rest some truly unexpected experiences were found on brief side trips to San Diego and Orange County, as well as my new home.

1) Saison

2) Playground 2.0

3) McCrady’s

4) Atera

5) TBL13 Georges at the Cove

6) Rogue 24

7) Twist by Pierre Gagnaire

8 ) Hearth

9) Grace

10) Ox

11) Carnevino

12) The Admiral

13) Coi

14) Restaurant Eugene

15) Mott Street

Savory

1) Grilled Duck Heart, Husk Cherries, Fermented Corn, Whole Corn, Marigold (McCrady’s Charleston)

2) Nepitilla Octopus Mapo with Garden Peas, Smoked Potato, Okra, Crumble of dried Spicy Herbs, Szechuan Peppercorn, Soy Milk Custard (AQ San Francisco)

3) Fried Chicken – Thai Chili, Vinegar, Sesame (Momofuku Ma Peche New York)

4) Muscovy Duck Aiguillettes with Green Pepper, Casis Bigarade Sauce, Braised Daikon Turnips, Marguerite Potato, Huckleberries (Twist by Pierre Gagnaire Las Vegas)

5) Carrot, Porcini, Maitake, Bloomsdale Spinach (Alma Los Angeles)

6) Poached Chestnut – Perigord truffle, roasted almond milk, RED SORREL (Grace Chicago)

7) Roasted Squab, Burgundy Cold, Fresh Peanuts, Oxalis (Atera NYC)

8 ) Soft Egg – Morels, Shallot, Confit, Potato (TBL 3 San Diego)

9) Charcoal Grilled Japanese A10 Wagyu – Red Walnut Stuffed Morels, Pommes Puree, Sacramento Delta Green Asparaguse, Stout Jus (The French Laundry Yountville)

10) Fried Pork Chop (Martha Lou’s Kitchen Charleston)

11) Hangtown Fry – Scrambled Eggs, Pickled Mushroom, Oysters, Noodle Pancake, Hoisin, Bacon (Mott St Chicago)

12) Munster-Brie “Soufflé” – Almond Crumble and Heirloom Carrot Consommé (The Modern New York)

13) Sweetbreads – Baked Juusto Cheese, Caramelized Peach, Honey-Sesame Gastrique, Smoked Almond (The Admiral Asheville)

14) Sonoma Duck Breast – Lacinato Kale, Fennel Agrodolce, Roasted Fig, Spiced Duck Jus (Frances San Francisco)

15) Garden – Vegetables and Fruits en Cocotte (The Elm Brooklyn)

Sweet

1) Thick Cut French Toast, Maple Syrup, Pear Butter (Ned Ludd Portland)

2) White Truffle Souffle – Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Caramelzed Pears, White Truffle Simple Syrup (Twist by Pierre Gagnaire Las Vegas)

3) Brioche Bread Pudding with Butterscotch Sauce (Le Ka Los Angeles)

4) Sticky Toffee Pudding – Sweet Pudding Cake, Brown Sugar Toffee, Brown Butter Ice Cream (Gordon Ramsay Steak Las Vegas)

5) Butter Pecan Croissant (Knead Patisserie San Francisco)

6) Coast Toast a la Mode with Gelato Vera Caramel (Brockton Villa La Jolla)

7) Walnut – Parsley Root and Raisin (Gwynnett Street Brooklyn)

8 ) Toasted chocolate bread, vanilla ricotta, honey, almonds (Craftsman and Wolves San Francisco)

9) Almond Croissant (Karen Donatelli Bakery Asheville)

10) Blueberry Fritter (Tonalli’s Portland)

11) Chess Pie – Pecans, Maple Cherries, Whipped Cream (M.Wells Dinette Long Island City)

12) Kouign Amann (Crumble and Flake Seattle)

13) Sicilian pistachio pudding and torta with bing cherry and pistachio rosemary gelato (SPQR San Francisco)

14) Valrhona bittersweet chocolate budino tart with salted caramel, cacao crust, olive oil, and sea salt (Bestia Los Angeles)

15) Bombolini – Candy Cap Donuts, Green Strawberry Compote, Douglas Fir Crema, Warm Summer Berries (Perbacco San Francisco)

Posted in Best Of, Food

December 28, 2013
7:05 PM
by: Uhockey

Twist by Pierre Gagnaire [3,] Las Vegas NV

Twist by Pierre Gagnaire

Ginger Sable with almonds and sea salt, Lavosh Bread with Tuna foam with Bonito Flakes, Tartlette of Goat Cheese with Cherry Meringue, Guinness Gelee

Metamorphosis – Aromatized Gin, Honey Syrup, Lemon Juice

Salted and Unsalted Isigny Butter / Cheddar Bacon, Cherry Walnut, French Baguette, Fennel and Herb

Rolly Gassman Pinot Gris

Ravioli of Foie Gras, Seared Langoustine with Dried Orange Zezette Bouillon and Paris Mushroom Salad

Kallstadtler Annsberg Spatlese 2008 Chardonnay

Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Seared Duck Foie Gras, Red Cabbage Reduction, Red Beet Wedges / Duck Foie Gras Terrine with Marbled Dried Fig, Date Paste, Carrot Fondant, Pimento Puree / Shaved fresh Foie Gras, Tandori Apple Syrup, Spinach, Green Apple Salad

Marotti Campi Orgiolo Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Superiore 2010

Muscovy Duck Aiguillettes with Green Pepper, Casis Bigarade Sauce, Braised Daikon Turnips, Marguerite Potato, Huckleberries

Creamy Morels

10 year Stilton Cheddar, Brillat Savarin, Humboldt Fog, Fourme d’Ambert, Triple Cream Goat, Milk Gelee, Julien Vegetables, Toast, Winter Fruit Marmalade, Port Fig Chutney

Samos Nectar Vintage 2002

Beet Raspberry Macaron / Pineapple Saffron Meringue / Choco Taco with Sesame, Green Tea, Chocolate Pearls

White Truffle Souffle – Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Caramelzed Pears, White Truffle Simple Syrup

Grand Dessert Pierre Gagnaire – Arugula Financier with White Truffle, Pistachio Chantilly, Green Apple Tuile, Sorbet / Crumbly Shortbread, Black Currant Syrup, Caramelized Pear and Passion Fruit Marmalade with Honey / Multicolored Meringue, Golden Raisin, Polignac Almond, Ganache with Old Rum / Lemon Jelly with Limoncello, Chocolate Ice Cream, Mango Veloute and Wedges, Raspberry Sorbet and Coconut Milk with Lime

Having long held Pierre Gagnaire as my favorite chef I’d be lying if I did not admit that the existence of Twist at The Mandarin Oriental played some small part in my Vegas relocation decision and knowing that M. Gagnaire frequents each of his properties it was only a matter of time before I returned; the resulting four and a half hours amongst my ten best meals of 2013 and capped off by two dishes that warrant ‘all time’ best consideration. Joined by friends somewhat outside my typical ‘dining circle’ for a truly memorable experience it was with great poise and frequent smiles that the professional staff worked and with expectedly flawless service the food and wine that followed simply ‘fit’ the room, the mood, and even the conversation – sometimes serious, often whimsical, at times challenging, but always excellent. Steeped in the stream of consciousness characteristic to Gagnaire but reigned in and refined to razor sharp precision under the eye of Ryuki Kawasaki it was with expected flare that each course was delivered as a collection of plates and with bold, familiar flavors frequently reinvented by subtle nuance the meal unfolded as a slow moving dialogue without the traditional light-to-heavy structure, instead designing each plate as a segue both forward and back with growing complexity defining progress to the final savory before finally breaking pace for a special request I’ll likely never forget – a tall, proud soufflé for the ages first imbued and then crowned with the last of the season’s white truffles.

http://www.mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas/fine-dining/twist-by-pierre-gagnaire/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Macaroon, Nevada, Pork, Souffle, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Twist by Pierre Gagnaire

December 28, 2013
12:36 PM
by: Uhockey

KJ Dim Sum & Seafood, Las Vegas NV

KJ Dim Sum & Seafood

Green Tea, Ice Water

Egg Custard

Duck

Crispy Shrimp

Coconut Puffs

Shrimp Balls with Mayo Sauce

Baked Salty Egg Yolk Cream Bun

Taro Puffs

Century Egg and Seaweed Congee

BBQ Pork Buns

Steamed Egg Yolk Buns

Most certainly not a connoisseur of dim sum but having now visited a handful of the reported ‘best’ in North America from Toronto to Vancouver/Richmond and down to the San Gabriel Valley it was with high hopes that I entered KJ Dim Sum at The Rio alongside a friend and with the restaurant packed to overflowing with Asians both local and visiting the carts and service that awaited rendered an admirable effort the sorts of which many would have you believe cannot be found in Las Vegas. Admittedly a ‘standardized’ menu featuring solid renditions of the classics but little innovation it would be easy for me to dock points for issues such as tepid duck or small, slightly overcooked shrimp but taking into account the nature of cart service compared to the menu style common to the elite of the SGV or BC nearly every dish we selected was nicely prepared and ample in portion, the total bill for 11 selections ringing in at $45 before tax and tip. Speaking to specific must orders, particular favorites particularly well done would include both the baked salty egg yolk buns and the even more impressive steamed version of the same, but most of all the golf-ball sized crispy shrimp balls served along semi-sweet Chinese mayo sauce – the rich, supple interior so good a second order for ‘dessert’ proved mandatory.

http://www.riolasvegas.com/restaurants/kj-dim-sum-and-seafood.html

Posted in Dessert, Food, KJ, KJ Dim Sum, KJ Dim Sum & Seafood, KJ Dim Sum and Seafood, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

December 28, 2013
10:14 AM
by: Uhockey

Peridot Sweets, Las Vegas NV

Peridot Sweets

Nutella with Crushed Hazelnut and Raspberry Butter Cream Macaron

Salty Peanut Butter Brownie

Red Velvet Cupcake

Maple Pumpkin Spice Cupcake

Coming away from a resounding failure to achieve anything at the local DMV without much planned before lunch it was in food that I searched to find solace for the morning and with a quick perusal of my GPS the perhaps unenviable task became the responsibility of of Tiffany Jones’ Peridot Sweets, a small shop on South Rainbow suggested by a friend. A cute space, open at 10:00am with a small but well culled collection of American classics plus a quartet of French macarons at prices far less affronting than those on-strip and in Summerlin it was Tiffany herself both baking and running the register during my visit and inquiring as to what she would recommend, in addition to my standard Red Velvet cupcake, a quintet of items was selected and at a total charge of $10.88 – the price/quality ratio without a doubt skewed to the right in terms of what followed, particularly the rich, moist cupcakes with thick yet subtle frosting and the dense brownie – also moist but anything but subtle with rich cocoa tones beneath a shellac of pure peanut butter. Admittedly preferring my macarons of the crisp, light variety popularized by Herme or Laduree it was perhaps a matter of personal taste that I found the shell of each cookie a bit harder than I’d have liked but with an excellent break quickly melting away to smooth flavors it was the fillings that truly shined, the butter cream especially impressive and the sort of thing I could definitely see highlighting one of the bakery’s custom cakes.

http://peridotsweets.com/

Posted in cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Macaroon, Nevada, Peridot Sweets

December 28, 2013
6:58 AM
by: Uhockey

America Restaurant, Las Vegas NV

America Restaurant

Coffee

Frosted Flake French Toast

Monte Cristo – Black Forest Ham, Sliced Turkey, Gouda, Brioche

Apple Fritter

Boston Cream – Chocolate Iced, Custard Cream Filled

Monkey-See Monkey-Donut – Bananas Foster-Filled with Chocolate Icing, Toasted Nuts

Nutella Cronut

Candy Cake – Chocolate Cake Donut, White Sprinkles, Chopped Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups

Probably not the first place on most Las Vegas gourmand agendas, the 24/7 “America” at New York-New York Casino had always interested me if only for its kitschy design plus one of the city’s few Monte Cristo sandwiches, but it was not until I heard about the restaurant’s in-house donut program that I finally committed to an early morning visit; the expansive restaurant largely unoccupied as servers joked around at the bar while “American” Top-40 played from speakers hidden by the enormous map of the good ol’ USA. Featuring a menu of expectedly American classics ranging from pancakes and waffles to country fried steaks and eggs it was with a bit of disdain that I arrived to find the Monte Cristo now relegated to the ‘lunch’ menu but happy to accommodate given the restaurant’s 24-hour nature it was with a simple request that the sandwich was prepared and arriving on a covered plate alongside the Frosted Flake French Toast both dishes would prove competent , though nothing to write home about, with prices and portions both in line with other Las Vegas Boulevard breakfast joints thus leaving plenty of stomach space for a sampling of the restaurant’s deep fried dough. Featuring no less than a dozen different varieties with three cronuts plus fritters, crullers, filled, raised, cake, and fancy on display it was with a bit of indecision that I pondered my options and eventually settling on a few personal favorites plus those most interesting a quintet was selected at a total of $12.50 and aside from the lackluster, artificial banana flavor of “Monkey See, Monkey Do-nut” the results were very impressive indeed; the ‘cronut’ as close to Dominique Ansel’s original in texture as I’ve found (a plus for those seeking authenticity, though I still prefer Coco’s rendition to both,) the Boston Cream featuring surprising subtle custard inside a delicate yeasty pocket, and the apple fritter rife with fresh fruit beneath a delicate sugar crunch plus plenty of cinnamon rivaling some of the finest I’ve ever sampled; the best in Las Vegas by far.

http://www.newyorknewyork.com/restaurants/america.aspx

Posted in America, America Restaurant, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

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Real Donuts / Sunrise Too Donuts / Donut Hut, Las Vegas NV

The Bagel Cafe, Las Vegas NV

“Best of” 2013 – Meals, Savories, Sweets

Twist by Pierre Gagnaire [3,] Las Vegas NV

KJ Dim Sum & Seafood, Las Vegas NV

Peridot Sweets, Las Vegas NV

America Restaurant, Las Vegas NV

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