Of the sixteen restaurant meals during our trip to Paris there is only one that I do not feel I can evaluate appropriately – a meal that took place at Josephine Chez Dumonet late on the evening April the 14th.As the circumstances tinting my view of this experience (save for seating us in the “American” section up front while all of the French folks were seated in back) were not a fault of the restaurant I will avoid my traditionally wordy assessment and instead simply opt to comment on what was ordered and how it tasted while noting the service and space were satisfactory – neither overdone nor deficient in any way – though with what the meal ended up costing me I’d have much sooner gone elsewhere for both.
Beginning first with the bread service – a house made toasted baguette with a nice open crumb delivered with rather uninspired unsalted butter and extra fleur de sel on request.It was good for mopping up sauce and as a delivery mechanism for the appetizers but overall sub-par compared to the options throughout the rest of Paris.
Complimentary wines – one white and one red with the first a bit too dry for my tastes while the second was quite sweet and fruity and both a nice gesture while we waited for our courses to arrive – the white with appetizers and the red with the mains.
1983 Chateau Terfort Ste Croix du Mont – an old bottle brought up from the cellar that was uncorked and tasted first behind the bar prior to delivery.Nearly a Sauternes in color and flavor with a smooth sweetness that coated the mouth at first but perfumed the palate with a clean finish and notes of pear, honey, caramel, and even hints of cinnamon.An experience in a bottle coming from a menu most do not even realize exists it was a wine suitable for both the discerning and the novice though perhaps not the sort of thing you order with indifference to yours or someone else’s wallet.
Amongst our first courses the first was a demi portion of the house terrine de campagne maison avec salade et cornichons et onions.Similar to that of L’Ami Jean and later Le Regalade St. Honore this was the weakest of the terrines we tasted in Paris and also the only one which was not provided compliments of the house.Overall it simply tasted like meat – the spices largely subdued…a shame as the texture was actually quite nice.
Faring much better than the terrine de campagne, a demi portion of the foie gras de canard frais maison was absolutely sensational – buttery, smooth, and almost melting when warmed to room temperature – the perfect accoutrement to the bread and all the better with some fleur de sel plus a brilliant pairing to the Chateau Terfort with the wine bringing out the sapor of the liver and the liver bringing out buttery toffee notes from the wine.
For our main courses, the first was Cote de veau au vinaigre de framboise – a large slab of meat marinated with and absolutely soaked in a pool of aromatic raspberry vinegar.Not particularly a fan of veal I’ll note that the bite I tasted was supple, slightly sweet, and much more lean than I’d anticipated – an excellent slice of veal which was picked cleaned from the bone by meal’s end.
For my selection, having heard fantastic things of both duck preparations at Chez Dumonet and a fan of all things duck, I selected the Confit de Canard Maison.Served as a sizable leg and thigh over crispy potatoes and an uninspired salad with light vinaigrette the confit was admittedly quite good with a crisp skin overlying a ribbon of fat and dark succulent meat that was slightly gamy with notes of garlic, onion, and chives lending balance.Hefty in portion and low in price the duck was undoubtedly the best deal of the evening – no frills comfort food done well.
The third main plate was undoubtedly the best of the meal and though the 34EU price tag seemed a bit steep the flavors were admittedly complex and the presentation a step (or two) above the others.Titled Millefeuille de Pigeon et ses cuisses confites this two part arrangement was first the legs – lacquered, sweet, crispy on the exterior but melting and falling off the bone within – and then a three layer tower of crispy potatoes with the most flavorful and moist pigeon confit within.With everything resting in a pool of sweetened game sauce with hefty notes of cinnamon and spice I will simply note that even considering the fact that she was stuffed after Guy Savoy it took some convincing to get my sister to share.
With plates cleared and everyone rather full on both food and wine dessert was a rather gluttonous choice, and unfortunately a somewhat controversial one as I was unfortunately prevented the soufflé I’d very much desired instead settling for the Paris Toulouse avec corinthes et framboises – essentially a slightly more dense Paris Brest with filling of berries, whipped cream, and custard.Having heard how large the dessert portions at Dumonet were I was rather surprised at both the averageness of the size and the flavor of the dessert, though the berries were impeccable.Regardless for 18EU I’d have expected better and judging from the soufflés I saw emerging from the kitchen I couldn’t help but feel slighted.
The second dessert ordered was simply a plate of berries and whipped cream – specifically currants and raspberries with the same whipped cream that filled the Toulouse.At 12EU it was again overpriced, but the berries were again excellent.
The last of the desserts was titled “Mille-feuille Jean-Louis” and while I’m not sure which Jean-Louis they are referring to, this two layered version was the most paltry Mille-feuille we experienced in Paris and at nearly 2.5-times the price of the marvelous version at Jacques-Genin (though admittedly more affordable yet vastly less impressive than those at l’Arpege or Guy Savoy) it was simply disappointing in pairing the same vanilla bean custard from the Toulouse with two crunchy layers of pastry…the presentation honestly looked like they’d forgotten another 5 layers.
Ordering coffee because it was nearly 11pm and I’d hit a wall nearly an hour prior it was a humorous display to see our server yipped at by the chef for failing to bring the mignardises with the coffee, but when they arrived these treats were perhaps the best desserts of the meal – particularly the honey and nut tuilles and the fried coconut macaroons.
In the end Josephine Chez Dumonet turned out to be an overly expensive and exceedingly average experience that due to some ancillary issues turned out to be perhaps the meal I regret most on our trip to Paris – while the room, the company, the service, and the experience were fine, with what the meal ended up costing I could have gone back to Le Cinq or any number of one to two starred experiences – not to mention the significantly cheaper and vastly more impressive L’Ami Jean or Le Regalade St. Honore.
I don’t fancy the word “foodie” – it runs afoul with my sensibilities and makes me think of kids acting like everything offal is good, people lining up for food trucks, and all those folks who worship the Food Network and “celebrity chefs.”Don’t get me wrong – I love food and I care about its sourcing, preparation, and presentation but to me the experience is nearly as important as the product on the table…it is what makes a meal worth going out for, and it was with these thoughts in mind and a couple of caveats that the first reservation I secured when planning our trip to Paris was at Guy Savoy. While some may say that Chef Savoy no longer produces – and perhaps never has produced – the best food in Paris there are very few who critique the “experience” of his Rue Troyon flagship – as a matter of fact, of all the upper echelon spots in the city I’d heard from a number of persons that it was perhaps the most fun and considering my previous visit to his Las Vegas location I had good reason to believe those rumors.For the sake of full disclosure I will note that I was not a stranger at the house of Savoy during this visit as I’d met his son Franck during my dinner at Caesars Palace and had promised him I’d be in contact should I ever return to Vegas or visit the Paris location – but with that said, I made my Parisian reservation on my own through the website for the 110EU lunch before ever touching base with Franck and every aspect of the process was smooth, professional, and faultless from the very start. With the reservation confirmed and instructions to arrive by noon it was with little difficulty that we found the small restaurant on the Rue Troyon – its doors an identical match for those Stateside – and similar to my previous experience the spectacle of service began before we even reached the walked in the door as both doors opened wide and we were greeted by smiling faces, first a pair of young men and then by Maitre d’ Hubert Schwermer who Franck had e-mailed to personally take care of us.With greetings and pleasantries exchanged we were asked next if we should prefer the main dining room or one of the “smaller, more private” areas and electing for the later were led to a lovely two-top easily big enough for four complete with hefty linens, colorful plates, and the same colorful salt, pepper, and butter service I remembered fondly from Vegas. With no menu necessary as I’d already arranged the meal through Franck and the reservations department our next contact of the afternoon was with the Sommelier – a friendly man who delivered the biblical tome on a pedestal and after some discussion provided my sister with a lovely 20EU glass of red that she still considers to be the best she has ever tasted.With myself opting for only water we were left next to absorb the colorful space for a few moments before Chef Savoy himself would stop by to say hello at each table as our room filled to capacity – it would be the first of three times we would see Guy Savoy that afternoon and each time he was jovial, humble, and wearing a seemingly perpetual smile. Already enjoying the pageantry of the dining room, service, and smiles our first bite of the meal would arrive from the hand of Hubert on a small metal toothpick just as it did in Vegas – a sandwich of foie gras terrine between buttered brioche toasts that even my sister, never a fan of liver, stated was good.With one service of such a tasty thing certainly not enough the ritual would repeat twice, each time by a different waiter and since Erika was satisfied with one I ended up with five. While I’d have been okay with an ongoing flow of foie gras sandwiches it was perhaps ten minutes later when our amuse proper of the meal would arrive – and again it would be just like my first Savoy experience – soup on one side and a hidden morsel on the other.Poured tableside with the fist half a savory veloute of Asparagus served over “lemon caviar” I loved the manner in which the sour dotted the vegetal while the small morsel hidden beneath the cup was an earthy beetroot tart with horseradish – an intense bite opening the palate and sinuses both. With salted and unsalted butters on the table from the start our next visit would be from the bread cart – yes, that is right, CART.With rounds and braids large and small and varieties including but not limited to Buckwheat with speck, Nori brioche, Five Grain, Rye, Ciabatta, Buckwheat and Oat, Sourdough, and two types of Baguette I’ll only say that I sampled quite a few throughout our three hour experience and although none matched that of Ledoyen or Pierre Gagnaire all were quit good and I particularly loved the coarse crumb of the two buckwheat selections. Having already noted that our menu was pre-selected the next course was a surprise – an extra course “compliments of the house” described as Line caught whiting with salmon eggs, Dublin Bay Prawn tartar and lemon jelly – a refreshing starter served on a bubbled glass plate with two forms of lemon and two preparations of raw fish.Beginning first with a centerpiece of melt-in-the-mouth prawn surrounded by four curls of meaty whiting topped with briny orange salmon eggs the plate was lent balance, interestingly, by the lemon – some as a sour gel and part as candied gelee with each bringing out different notes in the fishes to great effect. For our second act – or the first of the requested courses – our selections would differ largely because I wanted my sister to taste Guy Savoy’s most famous dish while I had my eyes set on something I’d been unable to order at the Vegas location as it was out of season.For Erika the choice, of course, was Artichoke and black truffle soup with layered brioche of mushrooms and truffle butter – a signature every bit worth such a distinction and just as smooth and aromatic as before. For my appetizer selection the choice of the day was a dish described as “Peas all Around” Stateside – or Myriad of young peas when in Paris.Consisting of three layers – the first a gelatin made with pea juice, the second a lightly sweetened puree, and the third a nearly raw layer of shelled peas the petit pois themselves were outstanding – each layer showing off a different aspect of the vegetable’s flavor while the topping of a lightly poached egg, a dash of salt, a drizzle of chive oil, and a few leaves of nasturtium acted only to add nuance and further highlight the intricacy of the produce.Another signature much like the soup I can only say that this dish was perhaps even better – a pure distillation of flavors showing the chef’s intimate understanding of how to extract the maximum experience from an ingredient. With the format of the 110EU special lunch traditionally appetizer/main/dessert I will note that our main course selection raised the price of the experience to 150EU but in reality it was this specific choice that spurred our decision to visit Guy Savoy Paris in the first place – you see, much like the Peas all Around, the Volaille de Bresse en Vessie was not something that could be accommodated on my Vegas visit though Franck assured me that if I ever made it to Paris I should be sure to ask in advance because “they can always get good bird there, even when it is not on the menu.”…and ask I did. A grand presentation if there ever was one, the “Volaille de Bresse Pochee en Vessie – Riz au safran, jus truffie-foie gras” arrived carried by two men and to the amusement of everyone in the room was deflated, carved, and plated tableside as Hubert stood by and described the heritage of the preparation, the hen, and even the rice.Beginning first with the succulent breast meat as the dark was returned to the kitchen to be pan-finished everything about this bird was a revelation – as a matter of fact, it was chicken that did not “taste like chicken” but rather something more clean, more buttery, and more intense.With rice equally impressive – nearly risotto in its texture with notes of saffron peaking through the aromatic sauce – and buttery vegetables there is no doubt this was the best chicken I’d ever had and although I generally prefer light meat even the dark meat – added along with more rice, sauce, and vegetables as we worked on the breast – was magnificent and with Erika getting full my third serving (essentially twice the size of the second) was equally exceptional. With plates cleared it was my expectation that dessert would arrive next and having experienced the parade of sweets at Guy Savoy Las Vegas I knew we would be in for a treat, but instead what followed was another visit from Guy Savoy who said Franck had written to him and said he wanted us to experience the cheese cart “on his tab.”Never one to decline such an gracious offer but knowing Erika was already near bursting I suggested perhaps sharing a course and with that the cart with at least thirty was wheeled over and described at length with our eventual selections including a Triple Cream Brie de Meux, an ashed Goat cheese, 2-year aged Comte, Morbier, Roquefort, and a potent Bleu de Vache along with fresh warm slices of Apricot and Walnut Raisin Breads. With coffee offered (again “on Franck’s tab) but declined we were told it would be a few moments before our dessert was prepared “a la minute” and as such we were brought “some treats” including a strawberry atop lemon meringue with vanilla Chantilly, a Grape stuffed with Rice Putting, and a Floating Island Cube with Lime and Red Fruits – all tasty, light, and the grape particularly a very interesting textural experience. For our dessert proper I have to say I was slightly conflicted when selecting as I was not terribly impressed by either of the selections in Las Vegas and as such I decided to keep things simple – a choice that would pay off in the form of the best Mille-Feuille we had in Paris.Again presented by Hubert who described the dish as Mille-Feuille “minute” with vanilla pod custard it was not only the vertical size texture of this pastry that impressed, but also the texture and flavor with puffy layers of pastry shattering on pressure and custard loaded with milky sweetness and potent notes of vanilla.With bite after bite remaining a balance of crispy and creamy even with an extra dollop of custard added to each plate it was actually my sister who commented that she couldn’t believe something so large and decadent could be so light. In order to again cleanse our palates before *more* dessert, our next dish was Earl Grey Sorbet with Lemon and Black Pepper – a lovely creamy concoction that tasted something akin to American sweet tea with a bit of bite. For our final “course” of the meal, just like in Vegas, we were visited by Savoy’s famous carte of desserts – a veritable cornucopia of puddings, candies, cookies, and treats.With each option first described by the sever our selections would start with Crème caramel, Banana Sorbet, Chocolate Mousse, Vanilla Rice Pudding, and Rose Rice Pudding with a second round (for me, while Erika slipped into a food induced stupor) consisting of a Chocolate Macaron, Vanilla Marshmallow, Toffee Nougat, Peanut Marshmallow, Coffee Macaron, and slice of Chocolate Tart.With each quite tasty, particularly the Rose Rice Pudding, the Vanilla Macaron, and the Toffee Nougat I will note that a third round was offered and although there were still more options to try I decided the better part of valor was to be able to walk out rather than be rolled. With the bill paid and a copy of the menu requested Hubert stopped by once again to make sure there was “nothing else we desired” and while I certainly should have liked to try pretty much everything on the menu I instead said “no, everything was wonderful,” and with that we were escorted to the door where upon emerging a small Scotty dog was seen wandering by with tongue lolling, a smile on his face and seemingly without a care in the world – a feeling entirely paralleling my own. In the end a visit to Guy Savoy is something I recommend whole heartedly because while it may indeed not be the “very best” food in Paris (debatable as the chicken and Mille-Feuille are the best I’ve had anywhere,) it was indeed the very best time I had at a table in Paris and the experience – that extra thing beyond the food that I value so much – is unforgettable.
I was stunned – baffled even – the wind entirely removed from my sails; how could such a highly regarded establishment have failed to impress?With the Michelin 3-Star location previously ranking as number two on my list of “must visit” restaurants worldwide I originally thought that perhaps this was simply a case inflated expectations but no matter how I tried I couldn’t create a scenario where this was the case.“The Emperor’s New Clothes,” an idiom my friend and dining partner uses to describe restaurants where he feels many ‘pretend’ to understand the hype but where he fails to see what all the fuss is about sprung to mind – and then he said those exact words as we emerged from L’Astrance at the end of dinner on April the 13th, 2011.
Sure I’d read some mixed things about Chef Barbot’s small restaurant in the 16th – the difficult reservations (less than 180 diners a week,) the casual service (at times even aloof,) the controversially rapid ascent to three stars, and the fact that the chef’s-whimsy menu was oft speckled with duds amongst the brilliance…but honestly they were all risks I was willing to take because I’d heard that when the brilliance shined it was perhaps the brightest in modern East/West and Modern/Classic fusion today…and of courseenlisting the help of a Parisian familiar with the restaurant’s rather obscure did not hurt our chances, either.
With my sister once again opting to retire early for the evening it was with little effort that I found L’Astrance – as a matter of fact I arrived a full hour early to realize there wasn’t much else to do in the area and as such climbed the large stone staircase at the end of the street to explore the neighborhood until the restaurant opened its doors.Still arriving slightly early for our 8:30pm seating I was greeted at the door by Christophe Rohat and with the reservation confirmed was led to one of the two-tops along the wall – a large well-spaced table with two hand blown glass chargers, a thick white tablecloth, and fourstemmed glasses already in waiting. Greeted pleasantly by our server, a young man perhaps of twenty-five, I was offered water and on selecting still was left to browse the room until my friend arrived – a room that would eventually fill to capacity including a trio sitting at a four-top with their Chihuahua (something I’d have never expected even at a Michelin 1-Star in the United States.)
With my friend’s timing impeccable I spent perhaps 10 minutes at the table until he walked in the door at 8:30 sharp and all in all I must say the precise minimalism of L’Astrance is something to behold.With bare floors, goldenrod leather seating, high ceilings and plenty of mirrors the room is fancy without being stuffy and the small flowers in black stone vases add just a touch of softness to the otherwise hard lines, woods, and chrome. With my friend seated it would be a matter of moments before our server would return, confirm his water choice of sparkling, and present us with menus at the wine list.With myself not drinking my friend selected a red and a white to be paired with the appropriate courses and selecting the “menu Astrance” without restrictions we began.
With the dog table, the table to my left, and the table behind my friend already started and the table to my right receiving courses nearly simultaneously to us the first course of the evening was one of the few I’ve noted to be repeated in the experiences I’ve read from L’Astrance – an amuse of “Brioche with black truffle and parmesan butter and Marzipan wafers with apple gelee.”With the first buttery and savory as the perfume of truffle filled the palate and the second crisp and slightly sour with a smooth linger of almond these were nicely conceived and a welcomed starter.
With the slate (literally) cleared the next item to arrive at our table – a slightly sourdough flavored brown bread from Poujauran with salty Echire butter and extra fleur de sel – would also arrive with the first mistake of the evening as our server filled my friend’s sparking water with my still – a mistake that would actually happen twice and although harmless went without apology, merely replacement.
The second amuse of the evening, served shortly after our bread, was a double shot glass with three layers described as “Broccoli Veloute with Mustard Cream and Passion Fruit Foam.” Pairing my favorite vegetable with my least favorite condiment and one of my less preferred fruits I have to admit I did not have high hopes going in and much to my disappointment my fears were realized as nothing in this dish worked for me, not even the broccoli.While it is true that people less put off my mustard may have gotten a little more mileage out of this dish I simply do not see how bitter, acidic, and pudding-thick would ever “work.”
With an entire slice of bread and butter plus a glass of water cleansing my palate of the previous disaster the first proper course of our meal was Barbot’s most famous – the Parisian Mushroom Galette with Foie Gras, Apple, Hazelnut Oil, Lemon Cream, and Violet – yet despite the gorgeous presentation and large portion I was somewhat underwhelmed by the flavor.Sure the sweet pastry basetopped with at least twenty layers of mandolined fungi, two thick layers of creamy foie gras, and a touch of razor thin apple was a textural masterpiece and the very definition of the Chef’s focus on minimally manipulated ingredients, but the flavor was largely just mushroom and a hint of liver with the apple nearly undetectable, especially when paired with either of the sauces – and it was here that I started to worry.
With the foie gras enjoyed but myself not yet feeling the sense of excitement I’d expected from an entirely spontaneous menu our next course would certainly deliver in the flavor department.Described as “Kombu, Yuzu, Scallop, Oyster, Oyster Leaf, and Crème Fraiche” this frothy soup was parts creamy and parts vegetal, parts briny and parts sweet, and each ingredient was flawless – particularly the nearly raw scallop and lightly poached oyster. Where the dish failed, however, was the manner of its construction – the Kombu an overly reduced paste and the yuzu a large slice, neither of which could be mixed with the other ingredients thus leading to one bite so saline that it could barely be swallowed and another tear-jerkingly tart.
Already noting Barbot’s affinity for acid and citrus it was no surprise that it would arrive once again in the next dish, but thankfully on this occasion it was done right. Described as “Spinach, Bergamot, Asparagus, Candied nuts, John Dory, Lemon, Curry” I’ll first note that the fish, my favorite, was flawless – slightly crispy on the exterior but moist and textural within while the smooth curry sauce lent a lovely aromatic touch to both it and the snappy curry-dusted asparagus alongside.With each bite of the asparagus slightly different due to the numerous constituents topping it, additional fun bites were found the intensely vegetal quenelle of spinach and a curl of candied lemon around bergamot scented cream.
Again showing an adept hand with fish and seafood the next dish was the best of the group even though it was once more an exercise in “which ingredient doesn’t belong?” Titled “Mackerel, Miso, Daikon, Meyer Lemon, Sardine, Buckwheat, Leek” and accompanied by a cup of “Smoked Anchovy, Creamy Rocket Veloute, and Frangelico” the answer to the question was Meyer Lemon – an ingredient I’m rather certain is not native to France, and thankfully an ingredient that was easily pushed aside.With the Mackerel actually glazed in Miso before being seared with the scale side down and then coated with buckwheat I can honestly say this was the best Mackerel I’ve ever had – a small portion, but a stunning one.Moving on to the soup – I only wish Barbot had used citrus like he did alcohol because although I have no idea how he thought to pair spicy arugula, fragrant Frangelico, and Anchovy I’m glad he did as each unique flavor seemed to balance the others into something wholly delicious.
Our fifth proper course of the evening would be the best that we would receive – a dish stated to be Guinea Fowl, Onion stuffing, Vin Jaune, Morel, Cabbage, and Comte sauce. Beginning with two rounds of the buttery smooth fowl – one breast and one leg – with a rich onion, wine, and oyster stuffing beneath the skin the bird itself was phenomenal and the plating a sight to behold.Not to be outdone, resting beneath the protein were a pair of opposites – large earthy morels piped full of a creamy cabbage puree and a roll of cabbage stuffed with chopped morels – both lovely and the whole plate all the better with an ethereal savory comte foam.
Having watched the earlier tables around us receive their dishes I was excited for the next course – a scarlet game bird that looked to be pigeon…unfortunately that course would never arrive and instead our next plate would be the plate that followed the pigeon for our neighbors – a “Tasting of lamb” with saddle, belly, confit of leg, and kidney plated with a quenelle of eggplant and licorice, green olive, miso, and mushroom jus.A veritable gout attack on a plate following the foie gras, sardines, etc this was actually my first time experiencing lamb kidney and although quite smooth and tasty it was my least preferred of the degustation as all the other portions were shining examples of young lamb done right.With the entirety of the plate quite savory and even the licorice and olive relatively muted it was again here that Barbot showed a great deal of restraint that I wish we’d have seen with the earlier citrus.
With both myself and my dining partner wondering what would come next and hoping for the pigeon our wishes were unfulfilled as the next course would be the night’s palate cleanser – a tasty and spicy sorbet of Lemongrass, chili pepper, and ginger.Inquiring from our server what the bird course was and what menu it was a part of we were merely told “the menu is different for everyone” and when we persisted and asked if it could be ordered we were simply dismissed with the same answer.Rather annoyed at this point by the intentionally vague answer more fuel was added to the fire as the couple to our left, the dog table, and one other received Barbot’s famous “surprise” dish – Mousse de Pomme de Terre – while my table and the couple to the right were again ignored.
For dessert, the collection would arrive as a trio – each unique, light, and tasty but only one truly memorable.Beginning first with a flat panna cotta of Rhubarb Compote with Pineapple and Rice Cracker the concept seemed similar to that of a crème brulee without the blowtorch and the sweet fruits balanced nicely beneath the crunchy cracker.
The second dessert, favored by my friend but largely underwhelming me due to my generally blasé feelings for passion fruit, was Passion Fruit Mousse in a Tart with Green Tea. Another extremely light presentation with the grassy matcha acting to even out the tooth-aching sweet mousse I actually enjoyed the tart – I only wish a different fruit would have been featured as its filling.
The final dessert, the least composed and most tasty, was Orange and Honey Ice Cream with Pistachio Cream and Shortbread – light and creamy, sweet but balanced by the buttery shortbread – and that Pistachio cream…it was potentially the best pastry cream I tasted in all of Paris.
Still sore about the pigeon and the mousse I’m rather certain the mood was palpable as the final bites of the meal were delivered rather coolly but with ample description – the first a pairing of Sticky yet delectable Chestnut Honey Madelines and a plate of fresh fruits including Dates, Pineapple, Mango, and Grapes and the second a Jasmine Eggnog served in an eggshell – a flavor I found cloying and my friend compared to the smell of a urinal cake.
With the bill settled, bag collected, and a copy of the menu requested it was not long before we found ourselves back on the Rue Beethoven just five minutes after 11:00pm. Having already noted my friend’s comments about the Emperor’s New Clothes with regard to not understanding the hype I will expound further and say that I actually DO understand the hype as the food can occasionally be brilliant.What I don’t understand is the restaurant’s attitude – serving whatever it wants to whomever it wants, placing eccentric and contradictory ingredients in places they never belonged – it is like they are unapologetically experimenting at the customer’s expense while treating the diner as though it is a privilege to act as a guinea pig.Who knows – perhaps I caught them on a bad night – but considering my previous three-star experiences both in Paris and Stateside there was simply no excuse for some of the dishes we were served…or the ones we weren’t served.Then again, I guess L’Astrance never offered an excuse and all things considering I imagine it never does – you’re paying for them to do whatever they want.
Admittedly the first four days in Paris were an embarrassment of riches averaging nearly four Michelin stars a day without even taking into account a great meal at a new friend’s home, San Pellegrino’s best restaurant in France, and L’Ami Jean.With yet another highly anticipated Three-Star planned for dinner Wednesday afternoon called for something slightly more casual and more so something that didn’t require so much effort or financial resources – criteria that no-reservations/walk-in only Café Constant fit nicely.
Having originally planned to visit Chef Constant’s Cafe or Les Cocottes in the event that I could not move up from my #1 spot on the wait list at Jean-Francois Piege the night before it was with little effort that we found the restaurant mere blocks from the Eiffel Tower and having planned our visit appropriately we were met with no line.With outdoor seating full our young waitress quickly identified us as English speakers and asked if we would prefer seating downstairs or in the upper level and with numerous children plainly visible on the ground floor we decided to take our chances upstairs instead – a good choice despite having to navigate the narrow climb as servers descended with plates in hand.
Arriving in the small room and hanging our coats on a hook towards the back we were quickly led to a small table in the center – the only open table to be found.A far cry from the spaciousness of many of our previous meals the room at Café Constant actually even more cramped than L’Ami Jean and invariably louder as well.Cozy without being cramped we were next handed menus complete with English translations, explained the chalkboard specials, and asked if a carafe of water would be alright or if we would prefer bottled – the first time such a thing was asked and an offer we gladly accepted.
With orders placed and water delivered alongside a crusty but bland baguette (sans butter) it was really only then that I noticed that for the first time in days I could understand the diners at every single adjacent table.Having walked in the door knowing that the restaurant was one of the most English friendly in the city I have to say it did not arrive as a tremendous surprise, but in all reality there was not a French Speaking Native to be heard save for the servers and given their fluency even they could have passed as tourists, albeit very friendly and efficient ones.
Chatting amongst ourselves about the plans for the afternoon it would be only moments before our first course would arrive – in this case all for me in the form of an 11€ Foie Gras terrine with buttery warm brioche.Served with a “bon appetite” and topped with only cracked black pepper and fleur de sel there was really no glitz or glamour to this course, just straight up bistro food done well for a price nearly half what one would pay back in the States.Savoring slowly and requesting more brioche I will note that the large slate was slightly cumbersome when the other dishes began to arrive but overall this was trivial when taking into account the lovely sapor of the liver throughout the meal.
Arriving perhaps fifteen minutes on the heels of the foie gras our two warm appetizers of the afternoon would be from the menu of daily specials, the first a 13€ bowl of “Creamy Shellfish Bisque” for my sister.Ample in portion and served only modestly warm with a dollop of crème fraiche and caviar the creamy soup was generous with mussels, lobster, and crayfish with hints of spice that proved a nice complement to the otherwise briny potage.While I personally would have favored the soup itself warmer especially as the crème fraiche would only serve to cool it further when mixed in the flavor was quite nice overall.
For my warm appetizer I just couldn’t stop myself from ordering more asparagus – especially when its plate-mates were a crispy soft-boiled egg, onions, pork jus, and bacon in milk foam.Served piping hot with the egg just slightly overcooked this veritable breakfast-for-lunch selection was as beautiful to behold as it was to eat.With the asparagus expectedly well prepared and focused by the rendered onions and briny pork it was actually the milk foam that wowed; adding a slightly sweet levity to the otherwise hefty flavors.
With our appetizers cleared it would not be long before main courses would arrive – this isn’t to say we felt rushed, but given the energy and popularity of Café Constant this isn’t exactly the sort of spot where you linger.Weighing in at 22€ each the first main course was Sea Bass a la Plancha with Garlic Sweet Potatoes – a rather simplistic preparation with a large filet of the meaty fish draped over the potatoes with a sprig of greenery.Clearly fresh and full of flavor the fish was good, though both Erika and I would have preferred the skin more crisp while the potatoes most certainly were garlicky – almost too much so for my liking, but perfect for my sister who ate them with relish.
For my main course I (of course) selected the Duck and Potato Pie with Crispy Apples and Pomegranate Jus – a rather disappointing confit of leg fortunately buoyed by its accoutrements.Beginning with the leg, at first I thought I had been spoiled – that all the fine dining had left me with heightened expectations – but no such luck as the duck was simply greasy, with skin that was not crisp and flavor that bordered on gamey unless matched with the delectable jus.With regard to the apples and potato pie, both were good with the apples actually flash fried like a wonton and the dollop of buttery potatoes sitting atop a proper shredded confit that almost seemed as though it must have come from a different animal as it was parts crispy and entirely what I expected from the leg when it arrived.
With plans to visit Pierre Herme later in the day we almost decided to skip dessert until we were presented with the menu and our waitress told us the Rice Pudding was “really really good.”Having already been wowed once by this rustic dish at L’Ami Jean and with a cost of only 7€ I figured “why not?” and ordered one with two spoons that would arrive within five minutes and be forgotten five minutes after we walked out the door. Was it alright?Sure.Was it really really good – certainly not as only the few small bites with caramel had much flavor.
With instructions to take the 91€ bill downstairs to pay we collected our coats and descended the stairs to once again find the room full and a small line waiting for seats – clearly Constant is not hurting for business.Asked if we’d be interested in purchasing the Chef’s cookbook prior to our departure we declined and within moments we were back on the street en route for the Rodin Museum.A decent meal at a rather decent price I cannot say I “regret” our visit to Café Constant, but at the same time I understand why it does not come nearly as highly recommended as other restaurants of its ilk – overall it is simply a “safe” place for tourists to enjoy decent quality French Bistro food and while I was indeed a tourist I simply expected more.
Considering the “15 days in advance at 8:00AM local time” reservation policy, twenty-seats, and one service per four (or sometimes five) nights of the week my dinner on Tuesday evening had everything to do with a fantastic local contact and a bit of luck in the form of a day-of cancellation – located above the bustling Hôtel Thoumieux I’d say it is fair to call Jean-François Piège the toughest ticket in town.Well aware of the nearly instantaneous awarding of 2 Michelin Stars to the tiny jewel box and having heard from a number of people that Piège’s cutting edge cuisine had perhaps been held back during his most recent stint at Les Ambassadeurs I must admit that the eponymous locale this was in my top four “must visits” for the trip and as such both my expectations and excitement were high walking in the door…a door that I walked by twice without even noticing it was there.
After finally realizing the small door and narrow carpeted staircase next to Thoumieux was indeed the entry to Jean-François Piège it was a short climb before I found myself in a room bathed in soft white.Chic and sexy with soft lighting and a cocktail-bar-styled hostess stand I presented my name and after a quick browse of the reservation list I was told it would be a few moments before the room was ready.Taking a seat on a plush leopard-print chair (and a second glance at the Scarlett Johansson look-a-like hostess) it was perhaps 5 minutes of listening to the soft overhead euro-pop before I was led to my table directly adjacent to the viewing window style kitchen.
With the room bathed in light from an enormous overhead skylight the most striking aspect of its design (save for the kitchen) was the sleek intimacy – a product of the narrow room, white walls, wooden tables, and plush patterned seating options.Invariably trendy but at the same time recalling the 60’s in style, sound, and mannerisms I found the room pleasant but perhaps trying a little too hard.Within moments of my seating I would be greeted by a young man of perhaps twenty five who, along with a slender young woman in a lacey tutu, would act as my server for the evening.
With the room now half full and soon to be at capacity I was next presented with the menu and a description of how it works – essentially a list of six ingredients sourced from local markets from which the diner selects one, two, or three at a cost of 70/90/115€ respectively (or 165€ with wine pairings) along with “Les Grignotages, Les Fromages de Xavier, et Les Gourmandises.”With my three ingredients selected I was next asked about allergies and after declining any such issues I opted for the 7€ water service and things began rather quickly.As a note regarding service – it was succinct, helpful, and professional but rather lacking in personality or smiles even when compared to more “serious” spots such as Rostang, Ledoyen, or Le Pré Catelan – a peculiarity to me considering the whimsical nature of the room, platings, and music choices.
With a cut tablecloth laid to cover the wood and unique cutlery plus an ornamental apple full of fleur de sel brought with my water the first flavors to arrive would be presented on a sort of rotating flower.Flavor and fun with items described as Creamy Cod Fritter, Chorizo Pizza, Salmon Belly and Avocado Macaroon with Red Onion, Ham and Cornichons with Lemon and Mustard, plus Rutabaga Chips and Dip I really enjoyed each but most of all the spicy deconstructed pizza puff and creamy fritter with hints of sage.
With the canapés consumed in short order the next item to arrive at the table was the bread basket – literally, a wire basket filled with bread.Featuring two full baguettes, one salted and soft and the other crunchy and loaded with sesame seeds, plus a rustic sourdough with a lovely crumb all were good, particularly the salted baguette which provided ample mechanism to deliver more of Bordier’s blissful butter.
With the outdoor lighting beginning to wane and the small kitchen of five chefs moving in swift silence it would be perhaps twenty minutes between the canapés and the first courses – variable from table to table as the order in which the selections were served was based on chef’s choice.For myself, having neglected lighter ingredients such as Caviar Oscietre, Asperge Vertes de Provence, and Langoustine Vivante, the first course of the evening would be “Turbot Sauvage,” and a large portion of it at that.With the subtle and meaty fish poached in butter and served over a bed of English peas, Lima beans, zucchini, and asparagus it was the sauce that truly stood out – a combination of the pan jus, pork prosciutto, and black truffles – and brought all the flavors together.While not as pure as my previous Parisian experience with Turbot and not as playful as Piège’s other options for the evening I couldn’t have asked for a better opening volley.
Moving on to my second course I will note that this was the first of two notable delays at Jean-François Piège – a lag of approximately thirty five minutes that likely would not have felt so excessive if dining with others but was rather off-putting in my case; thankfully what followed was worth the wait.Denoted as “Pigeonneau de Nid” this course was even more substantial than the fish that preceded it in both portion and flavor and overall ranks as one of the top ten plates I enjoyed in Paris.With both breast and leg seared golden on the exterior and red within the already exemplary bird was brought to the next level by a pair of stuffings – the first a textural puree of black olive and brioche and the second a creamy terrine of foie gras.Not to be outdone, the pigeon’s partner on this particular plating was a galette of pommes puree and a crispy potato chip topped with micro-greens that went very nicely with the reduction of port and game jus poured tableside.
For my third selection of the meal I was pleased to see the chef had saved the best for last – “Ris Veau de Lait.”Seated next to a “cheese stick” comprised of crystal rice and comte and topped with comte-crisps and earthy morels the milk calf thymus – lightly seared, sweet, and creamy – was one of the largest I’ve ever seen and by far and away the best prepared. With both the cheese and the offal delightful I was additionally pleased by yet another inspired offering from the saucier – a pool of morel beurre blanc sauce abutted by vegetal spinach puree that mellowed the otherwise weighty flavors.
With plates cleared and another baguette, this time raisin and walnut, delivered in a fresh basket I was next delivered an enormous block of wood topped with Quince puree and three cheeses from Xavier Fromager – Castillonais, Brillat Savarin, and Bleu de Séverac plus a shot glass of apple juice and house made yogurt.Having never sampled any of these three cheeses in the past I will note that the smooth texture of the Savarin was quite impressive while the Bleu was one of the most pungent I’ve ever tasted even when paired with a smear of the quince.
What followed next was another substantial delay, perhaps twenty minutes with the empty block on the table and another ten after it was removed before desserts would arrive.While the small kitchen and variable timing of people finishing each course likely had something to do with this, the primary issue was that of my neighbors who insisted on asking innumerable questions about each plate and wine – an unfortunate burden on such a small staff.
With the time now approaching 10:30pm and coffee declined it should be noted that when desserts did arrive it was quite the display – a Gagnaire-esque presentation of five selections with each quite sizable and ornately plated.Amongst the less memorable options were a spicy Bergamot Pot du crème, a selection of Pineapples, Bananas, and Papaya with Lemongrass, and Fresh Strawberries with Chantilly Cream and Mint – each good, none wowing.Fairing better would be a collection of bite sized Pomegranate Beignets served in a porcelain black dove – sweet yet tart, lightly fried – while the star of the desserts was a “free form” vanilla soufflé filled with buttery vanilla bean egg cream and topped with a crispy honey tuille…plus cinnamon crème Anglaise from a small pitcher that I believe was actually intended to be used as a dipping sauce for the beignets.
With plates cleared and no mignardises to be served I sat and relaxed for a few moments before requesting the check – a relative bargain at 122€ – and after paying made my way to the street as Dean Martin played overhead.With the Eiffel Tower aglow in the distance as I walked to my metro stop my thoughts of the meal just passed were a jumble as the food and the room were some of my favorite in the city, yet the service and pace were at times so dull that I nearly fell asleep during the five course/four hour experience.All in all I think Jean-François Piège fits a unique niche in the Parisian dining scene and in that single evening he served me two of the ten best things I’ve eaten thus far in 2011 but without improving the service I simply do not see people continuing to deal with the impossible reservation system no matter how good the food or Michelin ranking.
To dine in a space nearly as old as your country of origin is a strange thing – to think that those who have preceded you are the men who fill artistic, literary, and historical texts…it would make the space seem significant even if the food was average.But, what if the restaurant was also a Michelin three-star establishment that some have claimed may serve the best food in Paris?On April 12th 2011 I decided discover for myself just “what if” at Ledoyen – the oldest restaurant in Paris.With reservations made by phone well in advance for one person at lunch I’ll admit this was the one 3-Star meal I was most leery of during our trip to Paris largely because I’d heard of chilly service and a stodgy room – rumors I hoped to find false because I’d heard nothing but praise for the product on the table.
Hidden in the gardens adjacent to the Champs Elysées and established in 1792 as a formal restaurant Ledoyen exudes the very definition of “les grandes tables du monde” – a place of fine dining with an extensive history rooted in quality and tradition, yet at the same time as I walked up the gravel path to the space it was certainly obvious that some aspects of the space had been modernized in the intervening years to provide a touch of modernity.With a uniformed guard patrolling out front as I approached I was greeted with a smile and “bonjour” as he abandoned his march to hold the door and within two steps of breeching the doorway a tall elderly gentleman greeted me, located my name, and handed my bag off to a young lady before leading me up the staircase as he explained to me a short history of a painting on the wall.
Entering the grand dining room – long, spacious, and with enormous bay windows flooding the space with light – I was again handed off, this time to the man who would serve as my captain and within moments I was seated at a handsome two-top with cream linens, monogrammed napkins and a golden charger matching the gilded ornaments of the room.With heavy woods, chandeliers, mirrors, and heavy curtains abound I guess I can understand why some felt the room could use an upgrade, but to me it felt like old luxury befitting a place of such history.
With wine declined and still water (7€ per small bottle) from Vittel poured I next received three menus – one for lunch, one a la carte, and one featuring Chef Le Squer’s signature tasting menu.Having originally planned on the tasting I was instantly forced to reconsider when I saw the lunch menu options and after some debate and a pair of questions I actually opted for the lunch menu plus two supplements – a choice that would lead to more courses than the signature tasting and when it was all said and done leave me as the lone diner in the room.With my comfort and capacity (“Monsieur, this will be much food”) assured it would not be long before the experience would begin.
For my first taste of Le Squer’s cuisine I was a bit taken aback – sure I’d seen pictures and heard that he dabbles in pairing his classic training with modern technique, but I certainly wasn’t anticipating a molecular gastronomy in a room like Ledoyen.Presented on a pair of black slate blocks the sextet of canapés du jour were described first in French and then in English by a young woman who would act as my primary server throughout the meal and each one clearly sported not only modern flare, but Eastern influence as well.With options including a “Ginger Bubble,” a Veggie Wrap with Sesame, an Asparagus Puff with Nori, an Uni pita, and Crackers flavored with Polenta and Parmesan alongside those made with Sesame and Squid Ink each bite was fun and tasty, but overall it was the Uni Pita that truly stood out – like a pizza-roll stuffed with butter and purple urchin that burst on mastication into a flood of briny flavor.
With my love of bread well documented and canapés being enjoyed slowly the next items to arrive at my table would become a serious issue when taking into account my captain’s comment about the size of the meal – to put it another way, the bread service at Ledoyen is without a doubt the best of any restaurant I’ve yet to experience. Featuring a crunchy baguette with an open and airy crumb, yeasty salted olive bread, and a golden roll referred to as cereal brioche – all house-made and all warm – plus a large round of unsalted slightly sweet butter from Bordier it was the sort of bread I simply could not stop eating, particularly the brioche which I’m rather certain I had a piece (or two) of with every course.
With canapés finished the next course to arrive would be the afternoon’s amuse bouche and considering Le Squer’s reputation for drawing on products from his native region I was not surprised when the area was cited in describing the course.Again described in French and then translated to English, “Fine raw peas from Brittany over Pea Flan with Onion, Bacon, Marjoram, Milk Foam” was fantastic – the sort of dish that makes an American wonder why even the best produce back home rarely compares.Snappy and sweet meets salty and smooth and all with the mild undertone of marjoram and onions punctuating the experience – an inspired combination that could have easily served as a proper course given its size and complexity.
Already glad I’d decided to make the visit my first proper course of the afternoon would be precisely the sort of dish I’d expected from Ledoyen – an eye catching dish pairing top quality ingredients and time-honored techniques with a handful of whimsy.Described as Foie Gras des Landes mi-cuit with chocolate, toffee, vanilla, esplette, and sea salt from the Brittany coast this dish was decadence defined and although offered as an appetizer it could have just as as easily arrived as dessert.Significant in portion and more so in taste I particularly loved the manner in which the crunchy peppered toffee melded the thick layer of creamy liver with the milk chocolate ganache forming a flavor oddly reminiscent of an upscale peanut butter cup with basenotes of smoke and spice.
With the plate for course one literally wiped clean to the amusement of my server it would be a short while before my second of the four course lunch menu would arrive, this time “Bresse Chicken in stale bread with Tarragon, Grapefruit, Asparagus and Fine Herb reduction”Again served in ample portion with the bird’s mildly gamey flavor and tender flesh enhanced by the tarragon and herbs packed beneath the buttery crust the other high point of this dish was the inspired pairing of thinly sliced white asparagus and grapefruit – two flavors I’d have never thought to combine, but when used in this setting a pleasant acidic accompaniment to the otherwise classic take on “fried chicken.”
While other diners opting for the lunch menu were preparing for cheeses or desserts the parade of savories would march on for myself in the form of a piping hot structure approximately one and a half times the size of a Twinkie.Dubbed by some as “The Macaroni Castle” (Officially titled Jambon / Morilles / Truffe Aux Spaghettis) this dish came highly recommended by no less than three trusted palates and despite its cost being more than the entirety of the lunch tasting it was absolutely worth it.With tender spaghettis standing vertical beneath a molten cheese roof decorated with crisp potatoes, savory ham, gold, and fresh morels this plate was a visual masterpiece, but like many things it was “the inside that counts” – a liquid filling loaded with butter, parmesan, cream, ham, morels, and chunks of black truffle the size of grapes.Beautiful, complex, aromatic, and decadent in every sense of the word – a dish that will forever stand out in my mind as one of the best things I’ve ever tasted.
With praise flowing forth as I again wiped the plate clean it was the cheese carte that would arrive next, an ornately decorated carte with nearly twenty options from which I selected a 2008 Comte, Aged Livarot, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Brie de Meaux, and a particularly creamy Epoisse to go with the house made Fig and Walnut Bread.With each quite nice it was actually the Alpine goat Pouligny that impressed me the most with its somewhat dry texture and sweet-and-sour balance.
With the bread plate and butter no longer present to tempt me what would follow next was the best sort of excess – an over abundance of desserts.Certainly the four course lunch had its two dessert options, but why settle for a single choice when for a mere 9€ you can opt for Le Grande Dessert Tasting Ledoyen – a collection of five – plus four paired petits fours and more?With the parade beginning first with the petits fours as the others were prepared the days selections included Licorice Macaroons with Hibiscus jelly, Pina Colada and Pineapple Lollipops with a Gingerbread base, White Chocolate Sandwiches with Bailey’s and Lime, and Salty Caramel Wontons with Candied Pecans.Much like the canapés this playful collection certainly did not seem to “fit” the classic nature of the room, but by this point I’d more than realized Le Squer was unhindered by such things and I found the Lollipops and Wantons particularly lovely.
Preserving one half of the petits fours for later the first course of my dessert tasting to arrive was described as “white on black” and featured Ledoyen’s yeast ice cream covered in edible silver and paired with a light menthol mousse and shards of white chocolate.With the mousse/ice cream combination smooth and nicely balanced while the chocolate served largely as a textural contrast the surprise of this dish was how light it all was – a chilly cloud punctuated with crunch.
With the restaurant now approximately half-empty the second dessert of the afternoon would be Ledoyen’s signature, yet despite this status I was somewhat hesitant as I generally don’t prefer grapefruit.Arriving stacked as a pseudo-millefeuille and titled “Croquant de pamplemousse cuit et cru au citron vert” the dessert was undoubtedly attractive and on description featured the fruit in no less than five forms – sections marinated in lime, a gelee with dill, icy sorbet, crunchy candy topped with basil, and grated peel punctuated by honey.An explosive showing of tartness and texture I particularly enjoyed the manner in which the spices balanced the citrus, but all in all it was still grapefruit and while I certainly appreciate the effort and balance it simply was not designed for my palate.
The third dessert of the afternoon would arrive perhaps fifteen minutes after the second and this one was much more fitting my sensibilities.Described as “Strawberry, coriander, hibiscus, beurre blanc crème brulee” I personally like to remember this dish as Sophisticated Strawberry Shortcake without the cake.Featuring fraises des bois in a ring surrounding floral pastry cream perched atop the most decadent crème brulee one can imagine at its base the dish was then topped with aromatic coriander foam and smooth strawberry gelato to form a dish where each bite was a little different from the last – it was exquisite.
Dessert four would prove to be another intriguing composition – a dish described in English as “pavlova of carrot, orange, and fromage a la creme” but honestly I think something was lost in the translation as the texture was more cheesecake than pavlova.Semantics aside, with two layers of airy cream cheese sandwiching orange puree topped and topped with orange segments soaked in pineapple rum the cake itself was lovely.What set this dish apart, however, was the carrot component – shards of candy similar to that of the white chocolate from earlier and an aromatic froth that tasted as fresh cooked carrots smell.
With only two other tables still sporting patrons at this point I was asked if I’d like coffee – an offer I gladly accepted as there was a long day ahead, but prior to the coffee my last dessert would arrive in the form of “Chocolate crunch, caramel, crème fraiche.”In my opinion saving the best for last this decadent plate was geometrically pleasing and texturally wowing with two thick fingers of Valrhona ganache filled with nougat and wafer juxtaposing a layer of thick caramel at the center of the plate and tangy vanilla tinged crème fraiche at one side with chocolate pop-rocks at the other.
With plates finally cleared and Chef Le Squer making his way to the dining room to say hello to the seven of us remaining the last bites of the meal would arrive along with the intensely flavored coffee in the form of Chocolate with Rice, Caramel au Beurre Sel, Kouign Aman, and Caramelized Almonds.With the chocolate and caramelized almonds rather unmemorable after such an extravagant meal and the caramels a lovely sweet/salty balance it was invariably the Kouign Aman that stood out – light and buttery, crisp and sweet, and best of all still warm.
Still enjoying the mignardises as Le Squer made his rounds mine was the last table he would visit and although our communication was somewhat limited due to the necessity of an interpreter he appeared to be a very humble man and extremely grateful for my compliments of the cuisine.Stating that he was impressed I ate so much and inquiring as to what I liked best he again thanked me before returning to the kitchen stating it was time to begin preparing for dinner service.With the staff ever efficient, smiling, and professional I was asked if there was anything else I’d like and after requesting a copy of the menu I paid my check and was on my way along with the 2011 Ledoyen stamped copy of “Les grandes tables du monde” gifted to me in the lobby when I collected my bag.
With the afternoon gorgeous as I made my way towards L’Arc de Triomphe to meet my sister I was left to reflect on the meal I’d just experienced and all things considered it marked my third outstanding experience in three days and in retrospect it was also my third favorite meal in Paris.While the room is certainly aged and the service not as whimsical as that of Pierre Gagnaire or l’Arpege I personally did not find either to be cold or boring but instead classical and befitting a building of such history.Moving beyond this, I found Le Squer’s style and the product on the table to almost serve a bridge between past and present – a classic approach that is not afraid to have a little fun and serious dining with just a touch of whimsy.
The afternoon following the best meal of my life at Pierre Gagnaire’s eponymous restaurant on Le Rue Balzac my sister and I would find ourselves at another 3-starred eponymous (more or less) locale.Sure the small room located on la rue de Varenne has signage designating the space as l’Arpège but everything from the website to the history to the menu says Alain Passard.A former maître rôtisseur later converted to a disciple of “la cuisine légumière” I’d heard Passard’s story years prior and was instantly intrigued; how could you not be by a man who risked an already sterling reputation, restaurant, and career on such a dramatic change?Having myself undergone a significant renaissance in the way I thought about health, food, and dining in 2001 I’d invariably read more about Passard than any other chef over the last number of years and as such there was no doubt the restaurant would find its way into our itinerary.
Beginning with it’s own 100% natural and organic garden some 250 kilometers Southwest of Paris (and subsequently expanding to two additional farms with 14 farmers planting and harvesting through entirely non-mechanical techniques) the restaurant known by some as the most expensive in Paris and by others as “fussy vegetarian food,” for me represents a panacea – the way food should be cultivated, sourced, farmed, and served.With Passard’s dedication to perfection in his produce noted it should be no surprise that the reservation process was similarly perfect – an E-mail nearly three months in advance booked the table for Monday at noon, a call two days prior confirmed it, and our minimal questions were handled by a reservationist identified as Fleur.
Strolling through the heavily patrolled government district and arriving at l’Arpège nearly ten minutes early we were surprisingly the first guests of the afternoon and after a warm welcome we were given our choice of seats.Electing to sit closest to the wall with the famous Lalique glass tiles our chairs were pulled out for us and within moments our captain, a lovely woman with smiling eyes and a memorable laugh, greeted us warmly.Electing still water (the most expensive of the trip at 7,50€ per bottle) we sat and perused the room for a few moments before menus would arrive – blonde woods, hefty reds, white linens, plenty of sunlight, and centerpieces of preserved spring vegetables – natural and understated, as expected.
With the menu explained and the restaurant slowly filling to capacity we debated our choices for a short while before coming to a consensus – in order to optimize the number of dishes sampled one of us would select the lunch tasting and the other the full dinner tasting.Declining wine and confirming our selections to the captain we were complimented on our strategy and after making selections for the main course and a specific request for dessert the journey began.With each menu numbering ten proper courses I will note that due to our method of ordering and the generosity of the kitchen it actually turned out to be twelve proper courses each consisting of fifteen different plates plus amuses, mignardises, and more.
Starting things off our first taste of Passard’s cuisine was a flurry of “les Tartelettes” – two courses totaling twelve small pastry shells containing a mélange of vegetables including yellow beetroot and chopped garlic, red beetroot with chocolate sauce and sesame, and orange beetroot with parsley, radish and turnip.Clearly intended to show off the variety of his garden’s bounty early in the meal I loved the texture of the buttery pastry – a fainting glint on the tongue that gave way to a burst of nature; the first mild but pungent, the second sweet and smoky, and the last earthy and bitter.
After the second round of tarteletts was cleared our next visitor would be a frequent friend of the table – the bread server…or perhaps I should say the man who continuously replenished my delivery mechanism for the best butter on the planet.Beginning first with the bread, a warm house made Pain de Campagne nearly sourdough in flavor with a crunchy crust and soft crumb – it was excellent…at least I’m pretty sure it was.What muddles the picture was the butter – Bordier of course – but this time a whole level above any of the previous (or subsequent) selections and with a description more elaborate than even the Animal Farm butter at The French Laundry.Reportedly made bi-weekly specifically for Passard the butter was the beyond creamy – almost the texture of a soft cheese but infinitely smooth, packed with the finest sea salt in the world, and so fresh that it sweat…it was a butter so good that when the server went to remove our replenished triangle from the table at the end of the meal I instead asked him for more bread because I couldn’t bear to send it back.
Moving on to our first proper course of the menu – for one of us perhaps the most famous dish in Paris fine dining and for the other another take on a similar concept.Beginning first with the former, for my first course I was served the famous l’Arpège egg, more commonly known as “Oeuf à la coque; quatre épices.”Given my fondness for egg dishes and having already experienced David Kinch’s ode to this famous dish at Manresa nearly a year and a half prior I was appropriately excited when the cut egg from the Loire valley arrived and plunging my spoon deep the first bite brought back a flood of memories – the smooth yolk, the aromatic quatre epices, the sour crème fraîche and acidic vinegar mellowed by the maple syrup – it tasted exactly as my mouth remembered, a balance that lands squarely on every part of the tongue and fills the palate.
For Erika’s first course the afternoon would deliver “Oeuf Parfait Fantaisie,” a lovely dish in its own right though clearly not as famous as its counterpart.With a lightly poached egg anchoring the plate the “parfait” aspect of the dish was provided by creamy parmesan foam kissed with black truffles and freeze dried shrimp while fresh cut parsley and celery added a vegetal finish.
For our second course we would both receive a course that was listed only on my sister’s menu – “Musclun de Sylvain au praline de noisette a l’ancienne – mizuna, moutarde metisse, choho, roquette.”Again highlighting the diversity of Passard’s collection this course was described as a raw green salad featuring ingredients picked less than 8 hours prior and amongst the elements included were a rare variant of Sylvain musclun, feathery mizuna, crisp Japanese Choho, arugula, and Mustard Greens topped with lightly sweetened hazelnut vinaigrette, coarse almonds, sliced heirloom beets, and thinly shredded parmesan.Never one to rave a “simple” salad I will simply say this was as good as a salad can be – each ingredient a prime example and in harmony with its counterparts.
Much as I received Erika’s second course complimentary she would receive my third course on the house – in this case one of Passard’s most famous.Titled “Fines Ravioles Printanieres consommé amber – oignon red baron, chou cabus, oseille large de Belleville, ail thermidrome” each member of this quartet of ultra thin dumplings consisted of a different distinct flavor of finely-diced or pureed vegetables in a clean and clear broth kissed with saffron and ginger.With each pocked melting on the tongue the flavors of the afternoon consisted of red baron onion, green cabbage, Belleville red peppers, and roasted garlic with an aged cheese – each entirely distinct, mildly sweet, and the very essence of their respective ingredients.
For course four our paths would once again differ – this time substantially.For my sister, “Sushi printanier ail frais” was a unique dish and certainly not sushi in the traditional sense.While ruby-red and easily mistaken for tuna at a distance, this dish instead featured nicely prepared and slightly sweet white rice draped with a thin slice of beet accompanied with garlic oil, shaved beetroot and grated horseradish.Visually lovely, texturally impressive, and tasty without being overly spicy, but overall the least wowing dish of the afternoon.
As part of the more expensive tasting (actually more pricey than the entire lunch menu if ordered a la carte) my fourth course would be “Homard <> de Chausey au miel du jardin <> transparence de navet globe.”It would also be the best lobster dish I have ever tasted.Reportedly caught the day prior and transferred live to the restaurant prior to being poached in Bordier butter the lobster itself was tender, meaty, and succulent.Having had excellent lobster in the past, what put the tail over the top was the accoutrements – a layered veil of transparent globe turnips and beet root and sugar cane sauce infused with honey and lime.Impressive in both portion and presentation this was a dish where nothing was extraneous – a sum of flavors greater than the whole of its parts.It was incredible.
For the next course we would return to similar dishes once again, this time “Couleur, saveur, parfum et dessin du jardin cueillette ephemere” – roughly translated as Color, flavor, fragrance and designs of the fresh picked garden.A simple dish of orange and green, yet perhaps the dish that captured exactly what l’Arpège was all about in a single plate this pairing of Spinach with Carrot moussline left both of us with out mouths agape.With the spinach steamed and the carrot sieved, both prepared in Bordier and lightly accompanied with olive oil, onion compote, and golden sesame I think Erika summed this up best when she said “This is what happens when you take ideal vegetables and prepare them ideally.”Clearly enjoying this dish a great deal I will note that our server asked if we’d like another serving – an offer we graciously accepted.
Round six would again see our menus diverge though my 6th would end up being Erika’s seventh.Titled Robe des champs <> a l’huile d’argan – radis rudis, carotte ronde hative de Paris, chou rave noriko, pois mange-tout norli I believe the translation of this dish was something along the lines of unpeeled vegetables in Argan oil and thin vegetable sausages, however the plate was much more elaborate than that.Invariably the brightest of the afternoon’s creations this dish presented a cous-cous crafted entirely of finely diced of vegetables cooked with semolina intermingled with lightly cooked fresh vegetables in nutty Argan oil and perhaps most uniquely a small “sausage” made only of red vegetables with spicy Harissa.Almost a breakfast dish in some ways I loved the way this course fit in the progression of the menu for both of us despite the different timing.
Erika’s sixth dish of the afternoon was another item titled more in spirit than by ingredient – this one “Collection legumiere 2011 image du potager ce matin.”Described as the ‘chef’s whim’ course of the night, this plate featured a shallow saucer of bruleed golden onion gratin with Parmesan and Candied lemon.Shattering just like a crème brulee and clearly sweetened the interior of the plate was creamy and smooth – plenty savory but also just a little tart…to be honest, it could have served as a dessert or palate cleanser as much as it did as a savory.
With a small service glitch (a young man in a blue tie inexplicably came and stole our butter and bread plates after the sixth course) remedied by more butter and more bread the meal would progress next to Erika receiving the Robe des Champs while my seventh dish would deliver another special from the dinner menu, the (120€ ALC) Turbot de la pointe de Bretagne au <> pommes de terre <> fumes.A classic presentation poached in buttery smoked wine sauce and accompanied by cabbage, potatoes, and fine herbs the dish was clean, restrained, and pristine.
With the afternoon’s roast being paraded around the dining room in whole form our eighth course would bring a surprise – two distinctly different versions of my sister’s main course selection “Peche cotiere de la pointe de Bretagne grille sur ecailles;” for her “avec vin beurre” and for myself “avec the vert matcha.”Another simple but lovely fish the Sole from the Brittany Shore grilled with the scales alongside green cabbage and smoked potatoes was more meaty and less subtle than the Turbot but a sterling example none the less.With her buttery wine sauce similar to that on the Turbot though more sweet and less dry, the grassy green tea sauce accompanying my version was an inspired choice particularly for how it paired with the cabbage and herbs.
For our final savory I’d been given the choice of lamb or duck – the lamb specific to the dinner menu and the duck also my sister’s alternative option to the Sole on the lunch menu.With duck the obviously answer we were once again surprised when course nine arrived with two portions.Listed on the menu as “Rotisserie <> de Louise Passard grand crus du potager” and dating back to his Grandmother’s influence on his previous life as a maître rôtisseur this service presented a Salt roasted strip of rosy Challans Duck breast, confit of thigh, and a bone-in leg alongside confit carrot and onion, orange mousseline, fresh baby leeks and a finishing hibiscus flower sauce added tableside.Yet another dish with plenty of visual pop the duck itself was supple and fresh with a nice layer of fat while the vegetables were all perfect as expected.Was it as good as Gagnaire’s duck?Not quite, but tasty none the less and the bone-in leg paired with the hibiscus sauce was a fantastic pairing.
With our menu going a couple plates longer than the others we’d already seen what was next – La Carte de Fromage – and an enormous one despite a small well-culled selection at that.Featuringonly six cheeses on a large wooden block supported by a silver cart the afternoon would deliver 6 month aged Auvergne, St. Nectaire, and a trio of aged soft Goat Cheeses from West France – plus the star of the show, Comte de Garde Exceptionnelle November 2007 by Bernard Antony.With each selection a standard-bearer for its respective genre there is no doubt the other cheeses stand in the shadow of the golden comte which is shaved lightly and melts slowly on the tongue leaving behind an unmistakable aura quite unlike any cheese I’ve ever experienced.Having tasted this same cheese later during our trip in larger slices I’ll simply say that this is one case where size matters and thinner is better given the heft of the flavor.
Again catching a glimpse of the next course while enjoying the prior dish, the dessert of the day for the lunch menu was Passard’sMillefeuille<>Constructed as a nearly two and a half foot long log and cut to enormous individual portions tableside this lovely pastry was as light as a feather yet intense and decadentat the same time.Composed of at least ten layers of caramelized puffed pastry interspersed with clouds of hazelnut cream and dusted with powdered sugar there was no lack for sweetness in the plate, yet at the same time it never became overwhelming as the pastry itself was slightly bitter and shattered with the lightest pressure to prove an amiable foil to the cream.While not the absolute best Millefeuille of the trip in taste I enjoyed the texture of this one the most by far.
Arriving shortly on the heels of the Millefeuille would be the afternoon’s collection of Mignardises, a pair of plates; one with more tarts and the other with cookies and candies.Declining the offer for coffee after the bites were described our captain asked if there was anything else we’d like and with a simple request she responded “certainly” and disappeared to the kitchen as we explored the options; Red Onion and Parsley Tarts / Rhubarb, Red Pepper, and Asparagus with Parmesan Macarons / Black Pepper Marshmallows, Honey Cranberry Nougats, and Individual Fleur de Roses.With each selection tasty and unique it was actually the Asparagus Macaron and Parsley Tart that impressed most from the plate – each vegetal yet sweetened in a manner to enhance rather than to distract from the natural flavors.Interestingly we’d be brought a second round of Mignardises at the end of our meal – after our request was fulfilled.
To be honest, had I paid closer attention to the mignardise plate (instead of focusing on the Millefeuille at the time) I’d probably not have even made the request I did – you see, I had not realized the Individual Fleur de Roses to be what they were at first.None the less, having read nothing but praise of Passard’s signature “Tarte aux pommes Bouquet de Roses Caramel au lait” I knew it was something I had to taste during my visit and as such when the captain asked if there was anything else we’d like the Tarte was a logical answer and without question or second thought two of them arrived at the table at no additional charge.Similar in taste to the version on the mignardise plate each Tarte featured seven of the crispy golden “Roses” of apple and cinnamon centered in a dense buttery crust.Topped with a dusting of powdered sugar and encircled by a rich and complex salty caramel it was like an apple dumpling all grown up and every bit worth the special request.
Sitting and chatting as the room slowly emptied we were finally brought “one last treat from the kitchen” along with a second collection of mignardises – a bowl of “bread ice cream.”Said to be made with fresh unpasteurized milk from one of Passard’s farms and the same yeast used to make the lovely bread the melting quenelle was sweet yet savory, a bit sour, and creaminess defined.
With the (admittedly substantial) bill requested and paid we sat and picked at the mignardises for a while before I asked for a copy of the menu and was given a fully jacketed version with the statement “it is too bad chef had to leave early this afternoon or he could have signed it.”Unbothered despite the fact that I’d have liked to have met and thanked Monsieur Passard for such an outstanding meal we next gathered our bags, thanked the staff, and made our way back to the sunny streets of Paris where our conversation would invariably center on what we had just experienced – a meal my sister now considers the best of her life and a meal that affirmed exactly what I had expected walking in the door…that Passard’s vision is an admirable one and that his food, though not fussy or overly complicated, is at times as close to perfection as is possible – the inevitable result of flawless ingredients and considerable talent.Sure such an experience comes at a price, but sometimes you really do get what you pay for and for anyone with the financial means who truly cares about what they eat and where it comes from l’Arpège is a must visit.
…save for the few things that can be strictly qualified objectively it is difficult to define something as “the best” and it is nearly impossible to designate perfection; even in the smallest of things there are simply too many variables involved.With two excellent days (and four excellent meals) in Paris behind us and having spent a lovely day at Versailles it was Sunday evening when my sister decided to turn in early while I met a friend for dinner at Pierre Gagnaire, 6 Rue Balzac.Having admired Chef Gagnaire’s approach from afar even prior to my visit to his “Twist” Las Vegas, le Coeur had been my number one worldwide destination restaurant for nearly two years and with my previous comments noted I can only say that what I’m about to describe was as close to culinary perfection as I have yet to experience.
Having made the reservation myself through the entirely French website, first for one and then augmenting it to include my friend I will first note that Pierre Gagnaire is not an easy reservation – as a matter of fact it functions much like an American restaurant in requiring diners to arrange the reservation one-month-to-the-date in advance and to secure the reservation with a credit card, something that no other reservation in the city requested.With this small detail noted, much like Le Cinq, fromthe first moment of contact with the restaurant I had no doubts of their service – questions were answered, an English menu e-mailed (and re-sent without request a week before my departure to highlight the Early Spring season,) and when it was time to confirm it was they who made the call.
Arriving moments early for our 7:30 reservation just steps off the Champs-Elysées I greeted my friend in the street and moments later we climbed the stairs of the hotel where the doors of the restaurant were opened by a young male host who took my bag and led us to a the black lacquered hostess stand where our reservation was confirmed – as the second pair to arrive we were quickly led to an enormous two top in the upper level of the restaurant and asked if the seat was okay we assented.Within moments our server, by far the most whimsical and personable of any of my servers in Paris, would greet us and present the menu, wine list, and water – still for myself and with bubbles for my friend.
Having discussed the menu prior to our arrival the original plan was for one of us to order the Spring Tasting while the other went a la carte, but with the entirely new menu unveiled to my friend for the first time the decision was made for us both to do the tasting with one alteration – different desserts for each.Entirely agreeable to this option and with wine selections made it was perhaps 7:45 when our orders were placed and we were left to chat while watching the rapidly filling room – a solemn but stylish area with well spaced tables, grey ceilings, lacquered woods, and white linens lent levity by candles, fresh flowers, rambutan centerpieces, and colorful abstract art.
With Chef Gagnaire making his first of three appearances to welcome each guest individually it was perhaps fifteen more minutes before our first course would arrive – a myriad of amuses bouche including Salmon eggs with beef Carpaccio, Pastry stick with Sichuan wasabi, Back fat bacon with hazelnuts, Black rice crackers with oyster sabayon and olive oil, Lettuce with cream of anchovy, Egg white macarons with tuna and blackberry, an almond ginger cookie, and a potato cooked in seaweed.With the eight bites and innumerable tastes and textures clearly intended to arouse all parts of the palate I think the flavors did something more; they rapidly immersed the diner in Gagnaire’s stream of consciousness and set the tone for what was to come.
Slowly working my way through the flavors and particularly enjoying the sweet meets savory Macaron and melt in the mouth Carpaccio the next man to arrive would the bread server – perhaps my favorite man in any restaurant and even more so in Paris.With a pair of butters from Bordier – a square of seaweed butter and a salted sweet butter – already present the nightly bread selection included an impossibly crunchy demi-baguette with a perfect crumb, buttery milk bread, black olive toast, and hearty chestnut bread.To be honest I really have no idea how many times the young man stopped by our table, but let’s just be conservative and say four…or eight.
Beginning the seasonal tasting menu our server brought a smaller copy of the menu so we could “follow along” and almost like a hymnal the menu contained extensive notes of the melody that would follow.Beginning first, “Green Asparagus de Pertuis with thin round slices of squill fish, square of burrata cheese and cucumber seasoned with lemon mousseline sauce / Black olive infusion with old balsamic vinegar, melted sorrel and dominos of Gruyere cheese from Garde / Cardamom velvety soup with asparagus granite” was served as a troika, all unique, all excellent.
Now five for five in receiving asparagus as part of my Parisian dining, this presentation was invariably the most complex of the evening and as we were instructed to “taste each separately and then explore the combinations” that is exactly what we did, each bite a new experience – at times hot and other times chilled, sometimes intense and sometimes a fleeting tone on the palate.As the ingredient list for this and all subsequent dishes was quite thorough I will simply note that while each plate was impressive on its own, the manner in which the mildly acidic olive dish acted to refresh the palate each time I came back to it was astonishing.Serving as the starting point it was this dish that served notice of what Gagnaire would serve us that night – shocking subtlety and superior ingredients in a delicate balance.
With our second course Gagnaire would make his second appearance in the dining room – simply walking around with a smile and observing.Described as a new item on the menu, “Grilled thinly sliced sole with broad beans and leek stems, celery and green pepper.Miso liebig and a veil of squid flavored with ink” was another stunner, but this time all on one plate.With snappy vegetables juxtaposed against melting leeks and savory condensed miso the most impressive aspects of this dish were the fish and the cephalopod – the first perhaps half an inch thick topped with crispy skin and the second as thin as a handkerchief, briny, and delicate as pasta.During 95% of other meals this would have been the best course of the night – at Pierre Gagnaire that evening it was perhaps the third.
With excellent pacing and dishes arriving at approximately twenty minute intervals the next course would be a revelation – the sort of dish that had both of us wiping our plate clean with bread at the end.Titled “Fresh Morel mushrooms flavored with licorice laid on a bed of vegetables and aromatic herbs.Iced turnip and craterellus mushrooms” there were no tricks in this dish – just flawlessly prepared vegetables, a complex stock, and the very essence of the spring embedded in the earthy morel/mushroom amalgam…an essence that dissipated almost immediately on swallowing as the perfume of licorice, not detectable on the tongue, perfumed the palate.
With high praise flowing from our lips and humble thanks from our server the next course would arrive as a duo – on one plate “Thin slices of black grouper seared in brown nut butter, oysters, and capucine leaves with small Palamos King Prawns flavored with amontillado” and on the other “Salt cod ‘brandade’ in a bisque with grated green apple en amertume.”With the dish heavy in protein and having already seen Chef’s careful hand with acid, sweet, and savory this course would focus more on the use of bitter – a technique largely ignored in American cooking.Starting first by layering textures – meaty grouper, creamy oysters, and snappy shrimp it was the bitter drew the lines, working in a manner I’d never expected to add focus – the extra dry amontillado making the shrimp seem sweeter, the peppery nasturtium showing off the smoky tones of the grouper, and the nearly crab-apple tart crisp punctuating the briny cod potage.
As our fifth course arrived the clock struck 9:30 and the table lights dimmed while the wall lighting brightened slightly to add a very intimate glow to the already dramatic room.Clearly showing off the quality of his sourcing with more gifts from the sea, “Dog cockles, clams, and razor clams with chanterelles, spinach and parmesan cheese gnocchi in foie gras soup flavored with maniguette” would be a flash back to the morels – light manipulation of unique ingredients in unique combinations.With the briny mussels at the forefront and the piquant undertone of foie gras laying the backdrop it was the gnocchi that lent levity – vegetal pillows proving ample foil to the otherwise savory tones.
For our final savory course (or courses, as it were) titled “Thinly sliced duckling des Dombes roasted as a whole, medlar, spring onions, carrots seasoned with cumin; unctuous juice flavored with vintage port” I can only summarize the experience with the comment my dining partner made to Chef Gagnaire at the end of the meal:“Monsieur, I’d rather eat your duck than have sex with the prettiest girl in the world.”Rosy and pink, impossibly lean, charcuterie thin, and advantaged in all ways by the sweet port and medlar – it was the best duck I’ve ever had – so good that the vegetables became extraneous – so good that we joked with the server that there was not enough…and the server and chef were so good that a second round was served on the house.
For our cheese course the plate(s) were served composed – four selections on three dishes – one warm, one cold, two room temperature and all with accoutrements.Described at length as “Sorbet of pear, Roquefort cheese, eau-de-vie, segment of Williams Pear with ewe’s yogurt / Shavings of Ossau-Iraty cheese, rougette salad, cordifole and green lentils du Puy / Soft apricot stuffed with goat’s cheese de Ginestarie” I will not purport to be a cheese expert – especially considering the man I was dining with – but I will simply say all were good, particularly the sorbet selection.
Bearing in mind our request for alternative desserts the next course would bring Le Grand Dessert de Pierre Gagnaire – a collection of six plates and thirteen selections – for each of us.A succession of two courses, the first four plates and the second two the flavors and textures were too myriad to count, but amongst the five larger servings the first three to arrive were Fraises des Bois, yogurt, curry / Garden Strawberries, Red Pepper and Saffron / Apple with Tonka Bean and Pollen Cracker.Along with this round we also received 8 petit fours ranging from a marzipan cherry stuffed with black currant to a boozy chocolate tube and flavors including licorice, pistachio, mint, pina colada, and fig in between.
With the first round finished the second set of desserts to arrive would be the Pave du Chocolate Pierre Gagnaire with Toffee and Coffee Sauce and a cocktail glass of Black Currant, Pomegranate, and Sparkling Wine – both excellent but the Pave more so, its nuances so subtle that each bite was like a whole new tasting of the eight chocolates utilized in its construction.
Invariably satisfied at this point our server would return to jokingly ask if there was anything else he could get us – “more duck perhaps?” – prior to informing us “the chef has one last course for you” – in this case the alternative dessert we’d originally requested be served in place of one of the grand desserts.Arriving tall and proud “Bora Vanilla Soufflé, Southern African Golden Raisins / Passion fruit crème and old kirsch / Fraises des bois, shortbread, red pepper confit / white pepper ice cream coated with a Tahaa Vanilla Syrup” was everything I’d hoped – impossibly light, invariably nuanced, golden and sweet – a perfect ending to a perfect meal.
With the hour nearing 11:30pm Chef Gagnaire would return to the dining room, again smiling, and this time taking time to pose for pictures, chat with guests and receive his due kudos.Always humble and entirely agreeable and to sign and date menus the Chef seemed quite tickled by my friend’s comment about the duck and thanked us repeatedly for coming to visit before returning to the kitchen.On his heels our server once again returned, he too deserving of substantial thanks, and presented us with our last taste of the evening – monogrammed Milk and Dark Chocolates from a large lacquered box.
Paying the bill and paying our thanks again to the service team we made our way to the street and with my experience at Twist reinforced in spades all I felt was happy.Considered by some to be obscure, confusing, and too complicated for his own good my experiences with Chef Gagnaire have been quite the opposite – progressive for sure, but rooted in tradition, complex without boundaries, but smart enough to walk you to the edge without stepping off the cliff.More than that, Pierre Gagnaire is a talented and humble man who knows how to make his guests feel special and happy – that “Christmas Day” feeling from childhood – or perhaps that feeling after a night with the prettiest girl in the world.Walking back to the Champs-Elysées everything seemed just a bit brighter and even now Pierre Gagnaire remains my number one worldwide destination restaurant.
After a luxurious lunch at Le Cinq and many hours of walking, art, shopping, and more walking in between our dinner plans on the second night in Paris would be somewhat similar to those on day one – a member of the “bistronomic” genre with a Basque chef and humble yet bustling confines; Chez L’Ami Jean.Recommended highly by many respected palates and with reservations made and confirmed by a local/regular the meal would represent the latest start I’ve ever had to a dinner – 9:00pm – a decision made so that we could experience the space “in full swing.”
Arriving perhaps 5 minutes early it did not take long to establish what was meant by full swing as we entered the bustling space to find nary an inch to move – all but two seats in the tight space were filled and the bar was standing two deep with people waiting for a seat.Greeted promptly by a thin young woman we gave/shouted our name and with a quick check of the tattered reservation book we were led quickly to a table which literally required lifting from the floor to allow us room to squeeze in.Within moments our server, a tall gentleman who spoke perfect English stopped by to offer the menu, list of specials, wine list, and a carafe of water – he then suggested we “get his attention” when we were ready to order.
Browsing the tight space while perusing the menu it was funny as both my sister and I said at the same time “this place is fantastic.”Inherently loud, squeezed elbow to elbow, and with walls decorated in everything from rugby paraphernalia to oblong superheroes to food items I cannot be sure, but I’m rather certain we were the only non-natives in the space.With Chef Jégo rather quiet that evening (compared to rumors I’ve heard) and his team literally in a state of non-stop motion in the miniscule kitchen the pace was frenetic yet the service was superlative, albeit a bit abrupt, and it seemed no table was ever for want and everyone was having an excellent time.
Flagging down our server with a mere head-nod and with two questions answered (no, unfortunately they cannot do a half order of the foie gras and yes they were indeed sold out of the sweetbreads) orders were placed and within moments a wire basket of bread arrived – seemingly the same pain de champagne served the night before at Le Chateaubriand and once again served without butter.Crusty yet supple and with an excellent crumb I later managed to inquire and my assumption was confirmed – the bread is delivered from Poujauran (and for the germaphobes out there, whatever you don’t finish will simply be dropped off at the next table.)
Shortly following the bread would be an item I attempted to order but was told “it’s on the house” – the house terrine du jour and a large pot of cornichons and pickled onions.With the restaurant increasingly loud I must admit I did not catch all of the ingredients in that day’s terrine but my notes indicate at least boar, pork, veal, and rabbit.Gamey but restrained and quite ample in portion the terrine was hefty with notes of garlic, pepper, onion, and paprika – and much to my surprise my sister loved it.Always a fan of my mother’s meatloaf it was to this that she compared the terrine – a high compliment indeed.
With my sister opting for the 42€ prix fixe and myself choosing a la carte it was perhaps 9:45 when our first proper courses would arrive – a bit of a delay, sure, but understandable given the capacity crowd and small kitchen.First, for myself, a daily special of white and green asparagus with button mushrooms, poached egg, and bacon resting in pork jus.Never one to pass up an egg dish and additionally now four for four in meals containing asparagus this rather traditional dish was quite good despite a slightly overcooked egg.Salty and savory yet vegetal and earthy this was perhaps the least “fussed with” dish of our trip to that point and a nice change of pace, even for someone who prefers “fussy” food.
For Erika’s first course we were given a warning – “It has BLOOD Sausage in it.”Apparently assuming neither of us can read French (I can, just can’t speak it conversationally) I assured him this was okay – while isn’t my favorite thing in the world my sister really enjoyed her previous experience with the saline meat at Bistro LQ in December.Arriving steaming hot the dish described as Mussels, scallops, chopped tripe, blood sausage, garlic, chives, and fine herbs was fantastic – a mélange of flavors and textures that you could smell coming a mile away yet each distinct and nicely prepared with the chewy tripe, textural sausage, and the briny mushrooms most distinct amongst the nearly stew-like preparation.
While we were sitting awaiting our main courses we made conversation with a table next to us and on their departure a group of four would take their place – clearly regulars and well known to the chef who would emerge from the kitchen, kiss each on both cheeks, and subsequently begin sending out small course after small course of items clearly not on the menu – it was then that I noted on my next visit to Paris a return with the man who made our reservation was in order.It was also during this short wait that my sister would make a trip to the restroom – a trip made worthy of comment as she displayed a visible startle response across the room on opening the door and seeing diners right next to her thanks to the use of a one-way mirror.
With my sister returning and laughing at herself it would be perhaps 10:20 when our main courses arrived – the first Erika’s Scallops with Lobster butter and bread crumbs, vegetable cocktail with bacon, and Pommes puree.Thankfully small in portion as she was already beginning to get full these four medium sized scallops were served in the shell and topped with savory butter and crisp breadcrumbs while the center of the plate contained a mélange of vegetables and a stick of bacon strangely reminiscent of a bloody Mary without the alcohol.With the main plate quite tasty I knew the moment I saw it arrive that my sister’s Pièce de résistance would be the potatoes – one of her favorite foods and a stunning example likely equal parts butter and tuber.
Moving forward to my main course it seemed as though French isn’t quite as good as I’d thought – I thought I’d ordered lamb chops when in fact what I’d truly ordered was a large crock containing a whole milk fed lamb shoulder with white beans, carrots, sundried tomatoes, peppers, stuffing, and fine herbs.With the first chop plated tableside on a bed of toasted bread and house cured ham our server departed with raised eyebrows, a smile, and a “bon appetite.”Pink, rich, and slightly more gamey than most American lambs I’ve tasted it was with my first bite that I was glad they’d been sold out of the sweetbreads – while I’m sure they were good it is hard for me to imagine that they would have been this hearty, rustic, and satisfying.With each bite as good as the last and the vegetables and legumes providing ample contrast to the rich meat this was precisely the sort of dish I’d hoped for at L’Ami Jean – the sort of dish I’m sure many French folks including Chef Jégo grew up and the sort of dish I wish more places did well stateside – and yes, I finished all but the bones and cup of the broth garnering a “good job” from our server and a thumbs up from the kitchen.
With the hour nearing 11:00 at this point and people continuing to file in to fill the empty spaces our desserts would arrive next – the first a personal favorite and the second a dish recommended by pretty much everyone who’d ever visited L’Ami Jean prior.Beginning first with the Vanilla Brioche Bread Pudding with whipped cream, pistachio, and strawberry the dish arrived with instructions – namely “don’t touch the bowl, it is very hot.” Featuring four large cubes of golden bread lightly toasted on the corners and soaked through with rich caramel the hefty squares actually bordered on being overly sweet on their own, yet when matched with the mild and airy whipped cream, crumbled pistachio, and potage of vanilla the flavor mellowed out substantially forming an almost butterscotch flavor.Tasty, rustic, and indeed hot I will note I’m glad we ordered it as bread pudding is my favorite type of dessert, but it couldn’t hold a candle to what followed.
For our final taste of Chez L’Ami Jean the order would be Chef Jégo’s famous Rice Pudding in the fashion of his grandmother.Served with with confiture du lait atop the short grain rice plus more as a sidecar, granola with pralines and dried fruit, and multiple flavored meringues I can confirm that the rumors are true – the portion is enormous. Delivered on a serving board with two large plates placed before us our server offered another smile and a “enjoy” – and enjoy we did, plate after plate until there was nothing left but an empty bowl and a spoon licked clean.Thick, creamy, and smooth as velvet on the tongue without being sticky the rice itself was mildly sweet with the bourbon vanilla tones washing over the palate in waves – on its own it was the best rice pudding I’ve ever tasted, yet with the addition of each additional ingredient it became something different, my favorite being crumbles of the pistachio meringue with an added spoonful of the confiture.
Stuffed and immensely satisfied with the clock nearing midnight and a long metro ride back to the 19th we asked for the check – a check delivered in a small tin with just the words “prix fixe x 2 – 84€” – and bidding us farewell we were instructed to pay at the bar – a bar still full and with folks with patrons enjoying wine and charcuterie plus a few more standing outside smoking cigarettes and/or waiting to get in and enjoy some of Chef Jégo’s rustic yet mostly exemplary cuisine and hospitality…two things that in conjunction with the excellent price tag and lively atmosphere would see me as a regular if I lived locally.
“You’ve never seen a room like it” said one friend.“The service is the best I’ve ever experienced” said another.“Éric Briffard should have three stars – he should have had it a year” said yet another.With these statements in mind and Saturday lunch service it wasn’t a question of if we should visit Le Cinq at The George V during our trip to Paris – it was a question of which Saturday was a better fit for our schedule.As a part of the Four Seasons group reservations were simple – a quick call to their central office provided me with an e-mail and within forty-five minutes of sending the original E-mail I received a call from the Paris concierge to set up lunch for two at 12:30 on April the 9th 2011.
Arrving arrived in Paris a mere 24-hours earlier and having already enjoyed two solid meals, morning pastries from Laduree, and a morning walk through the Jardins des Tuileries plus some shopping on the Champs-Élysées our arrival at The George V was timely despite the construction – as a matter of fact we were early and after making our way past a Maybach, a Rolls Royce, and an Aston-Martin Vanquish we found ourselves in the large central lobby currently being detailed with mirrored boxes and large vases of ornate flowers.Greeted first by the doorman and then by an attendant in the lobby we stated our business and were directed to the restaurant, stopping along the way to browse the art, jewelry, and small indoor café full of lounging guests, their families, and even their well outfitted canines.
Making our way to the doors of the restaurant we were greeted en route and walked the last twenty feet – my bag was taken and stored before I even knew what happened and upon stating our name the service captain responded with “Yes, of course, from Ohio – how was your flight?”Appropriately impressed and chatting as we made our way through the glorious baroque dining room my very first thought echoed the comments of my friend – I’d never seen a room like it – intricate molding, floor to ceiling windows, oil paintings, and gold leaf, crystal and silver aplenty. With chairs pulled out in synchrony and seated on pillow soft chairs at a two top large enough for four our comfort was assured and a purse stool appeared for my sister’s bag…the service, too, lived up to the hype – a well oiled machine meant to make you feel like royalty.
With our meal already discussed with the Maitre D’ via E-mail prior to our arrival the selections were confirmed – the three course weekly lunch for Erika and the “Spring Menu” for myself – and within moments the chariot of champagne and caviar arrived tableside, a nice touch which we politely declined instead opting for a bottle of still water.After this our captain would stop by again to chat, ask about any dietary restrictions, and make a few additional offers and suggestions.
With water poured and a handful of rose petals added to the table the first bites would arrive quickly – a large basket of tempura fried Shrimp and Calamari spritzed with lemon oil and served with tiny tridents – a unique way to start a meal and apparently a customary opening volley at Le Cinq that was excellent, particularly the crisp yet supple calamari.
Moving on, our next taste of Le Cinq was rather unlike anything I’ve ever seen – a single slice of white bread served with olive oil.With it explain that this single slice of bread was made with the “utmost care to be entirely flavorless” so that we could “experience” the 2010 Frantoi Cutrera Primo Olive Oil all I could do was chuckle – something so small, yet clearly intended to wow…sure it was good and the oil impressively fruity – but more than the flavor it was the gesture… all these little flourishes that would keep happening all afternoon.
Speaking of tasty carbohydrates, aside from that first slice of bread there was nothing flavorless about Le Cinq’s house made bread selection – as a matter of fact, it was my second favorite bread selection of the trip with a basket consisting of Country, Baguette, Brioche, Tomato, and 7-Grain – all tasty, but all the more so due to the butter – two large cones that arrived covered in glass; one a sweet butter from Brenton and the other a savory Seaweed Butter that required replenishment late in the meal (yes we ate that much butter and yes it was worth every calorie.)
Munching on the bread, at this point a lovely curl of tomato brioche, it was perhaps thirty minutes into service before our trio of amuses arrived – from left to right a Lemongrass Shrimp with Cauliflower, a gelee of Carrot with Ginger and Hibiscus, and the Tempurad head of the shrimp.Instructed to enjoy the plate from left to right each bite was impressive – the first sour and snappy, the second sweet and smooth, the last crunchy and savory – a suitable troika that primed the palate.
With the proper menu beginning and Erika ordering a three course menu while I opted for seven I will note that timing could not have been handled better – as a matter of fact, our server even included her in the cheese course and provided a second small dessert to help even things out…just another one of those “little things.”Keeping with that topic, Erika’s first selection would be a quartet of little things entitled “Sardines from Saint-Gilles-Croix-De-Vie – tartar, grilled, tempura, raw in asparagus flan.”An unexpected selection but based on two positive experiences with the fish the day prior the three plates were all exquisitely presented and each flavor distinctly different; some focusing on texture while others on taste.I particularly enjoyed the bite raw bite with garlic croutons and a creamy asparagus flan.
For my first course the kitchen deftly showed its hand with Japanese presentations in delivering Toro Tartar with Green apple Gelee, Pea, Caviar, and Fresh Wasabi.Neglecting the wasabi and focusing strictly on the fish, a pylon shaped ounce or two topped with a pyramid of briny fish eggs, this was a nicely cleaned and presented tartar with the fish eggs providing plenty of accent, but what truly stood out about the dish was actually the impressively sweet double shucked peas – nearly raw in texture and quite unlike the way we see peas served in the United States.
For my second course, now three out of three, I would see more of that wonderful French asparagus – this time “Green Asparagus from Luberon rapidly cooked in olive oil with gnocchi, chives, and pork jus” plus a side plate of Matcha Tea Frozen yogurt, Asparagus sorbet, and Lemon brioche.Thick and snappy the Asparagus quality was perhaps the best of the trip while the solo gnocchi was a flawless pillow that simply made me wish for more.With the first plate rather traditional, the more interesting part of this dish was the side – an intensely bitter yet vegetal frozen yogurt topped with creamy sorbet that truly did taste like a 50/50 admixture of sugar and the essence of Asparagus.As for the golden brioche – tasty and sweet…plus an excuse to eat more of the Brenton butter.
With the course cleared our captain would arrive tableside with a Polaroid camera to snap a picture “for his collection” – a picture later delivered in a classy George V envelope to take home as a souvenir – yet another nice touch.On the heels of this gesture, however, would be an even nicer touch – two of the ten best things I tasted in Paris served simultaneously; the first being Duck Foie Gras from the Landes Region with Sarawak Pepper Roast, Rhubarb, Strawberries from a Provencal Garden, and Elderberry Juice.Always a fan of cold Foie Gras preparations as compared to warm this dish was an eye opener and every bit on par with the my favorite seared version of all time at L2o.Described as first roasted and then lightly seared the liver itself was so smooth and supple that it barely held its form, instead melting into a luscious pool and melding with the fruit juices while the pepper added a note of spice serving to contrast the sweetness of the strawberry.
Nearly as impressive and much less expected than my course was Erika’s “Rex Rabbit from Poitou Region cooked with squid and served as rib rack, loin, breast alongside bayaldi of vegetables, muscadet wine gravy, anchovies, and peas.”With the rabbit prepared medium and impressively nutty each of the variations was tasty, particularly the panko dusted rack while each accoutrement lent something different, a new angle of exploration that kept the large plate interesting from start to finish.Rustic yet refined it was this dish amongst all the others that truly showed off Briffard’s talents to me – a complex landscape of flavors and textures that moved you away from the center but then brought you back without ever truly losing focus.
Sharing the rabbit across the table and making a mess of the linen (which my sister jokingly pointed out to our server) the next thing to arrive at our table was a cover-up table cloth – and rose petals jokingly arranged to cover the corners – and after that was my “Blue Lobster Pot roasted in Baby Garlic, Freshly Squeezed Pinot Noir grape Jus, Confit Pork Belly, Lobster Stuffed Morels and Crunchy Cabbage with Ginger.”It was an embarrassment of riches in all the right ways.Having experienced Brittany Blue only once in the past – ironically then also paired with cabbage and ginger this dish – this dish was another outstanding exploration of various themes on one plate and again each lent something of its own without compromising the others or becoming too “busy.”With the lobster easily cut with the edge of a fork and more buttery than garlic the morels were actually the standout of this dish – stuffed with a lobster sausage mixed with what I believe was aged cheese…both would go beautifully with the jus.Additionally impressive was the cabbage – not crispy itself, but buttery and mixed with crisp ginger revitalizing the palate with each bite.
Resisting the urge to wipe the plate clean with bread (besides, there was butter left) our plates were collected and our captain stopped by to suggest my sister also take some cheese “on the house” and with that the cart arrived.Featuring a well culled selection of approximately twenty cheeses each was described at length and after much discussion we decided to allow our server to make the selections – amongst them a nutty Mimolette and 2-year aged Comte, more pungent Epoisse and Bleu de sauvignon, plus a triple cream Brie, Camembert, and two goat cheeses.Accompanying the cheese would be Country Walnut Bread and Apricot Date Bread…they should sell the Apricot bread by the loaf.
Before our palate cleanser we were first brought an “aperitif” of water.Thinking this odd I listened with interest as our server described the characteristics of the Black Forest Water – an ultra pure zero nitrate mineral water from the North of France that was purportedly the best in Paris.Cracking open a fresh bottle I found it perplexing that they would serve this for free while charging for the bottled water service during the meal, but regardless it really was quite flavorless, ice cold, and yet another of those little moments that stand out.
Still sipping our “super water” the next item to arrive was a flavorful warm Green tea Madeline served alongside Salted cream cheese Ice Cream coated with Gold leaf and drizzled with honey soaked citrus – a tasty and attractive bite equal parts sweet, sour, and salty.
Moving on to the proper desserts I will first note that our server offered to gift Erika both desserts on my tasting menu but she declined as she had her heart set on the Wild Strawberry Napoleon Pie with light cream, citrus fruits, white cheese sorbet, and strawberry gelato. Served as a three layer Mille Feuille with crispy pastry divided by layers of fraises des bois and a zesty light cream the pastry itself was flawless, shattering on light pressure and sweet without being overly so.Seated along the pastry was another crisp layer, this time circular and stuffed with a mascarpone textured sorbet dotted with yuzu and topped with creamy strawberry gelato.As an additional bonus, along with my second dessert she would be presented with a bowl of fraises des bois topped with fluffy whipped cream and shavings of white chocolate “because one can never get enough strawberry at springtime in Paris.”
For my first dessert at Le Cinq I was treated to a large cocktail glass described on the menu as “Red Fruit Cocktail with Hibiscus Jelly, Basil Froth.”In reality the “red fruits” would consist of at least five – standard large strawberries, fraises des bois, raspberries, currants, and pomegranate – resting in an aromatic mélange of their juices and topped with a strawberry sorbet champagne cream touched with basil.With all the fruits as ripe and tasty as expected the most impressive aspect of this dish was the smell – like walking in an early summer garden.
With the table next to us ordering the flaming omelette à la norvégienne we were treated to a show while we waited for the second desserts, but once mine arrived the show was squarely on the plate in the form of the “After Eight Chocolate Bar, Peppermint Granita.”Served elegantly with seven variations of chocolate including the crispy base the dish was beautiful and dotted with spots of menthol that acted largely as an accent, not overwhelming as mint can tend to be.Creamy and crunchy with oodles of nuance the dish was additionally playful with the addition of pop-rocks to the center layer adding a totally unexpected surprise.
Beyond content our final treat of the afternoon would prove to be the gift that kept on giving – a mignardise cart with no less than twenty options ranging from strawberry macarons every bit as good as those at Laduree, blackberry opera cakes, chewy nougat, nearly perfect Canele, five types of caramels, pistachio bark, vanilla marshmallows, lemon tarts with fraises des bois, chocolate tarts with almond, and 10 assorted Chocolates (both dark and light.)First offered “as many as you like” and then later recommended to try most of what we hadn’t received with the first round all we could do was accept graciously – and even after that they packed up two small boxes of 5 caramels each for us to enjoy later on.
Sitting back to bask in the glory of the past three hours (and to digest such an amazing meal) we watched a party of eight ask to enjoy their mignardises and coffee out on the terrace – an offer that was met by the captain first going out and setting an entire table with plates, crystal, and sliver before plating a large platter of choices and walking them out into the sun.On his return we requested our bill – one tasting, one lunch tasting, one bottle of water despite all the extras – and on paying were walked to the front of the restaurant where he suggested another photo using my camera and presented me with a copy of the menu before bidding us farewell.
In the end how do you sum up such an experience? Simply.My friends were right.
My mother always told me to avoid judging a book by its cover but I’m not going to lie, when we first walked up to Le Chateaubriand my first thought was “is this the right place?”Ranked by S. Pellegrino as the 11th best restaurant in the world (since upgraded to 9th in 2011) and helmed by self trained “vagabond” chef Inaki Aizpitarte the small former grocery turned bistro in the 11th is anything but ostentatious – as a matter of fact to the layperson it looks every bit as common as hundreds of other bistros in Paris.Walking up to the open doors slightly early for our 8:30pm reservation it was additionally confusing that such a well regarded spot would be empty save for one table on a Friday night, however with our name reported to the bartender we were assured we were indeed at the right place and that “service usually starts around 9:00.”
Greeted in excellent English by a young roguish looking man who would turn out to be our server we were welcomed and told to “pick anywhere you like” – for myself the table looking directly into the kitchen was an obvious choice and as such my sister was given a view of the entirety of a dining room that would fill to capacity spilling into the street within a half hour.Speaking of the room – overall it represented a continuation of the rustic theme noted from the exterior with cream colored walls, grey floors, unadorned wooden tables and chairs, and a zinc bar and chalkboard as the only real “decorations” to the room.With the day’s menu presented and Okayed we were asked if we had any dietary restrictions and after denying any such issues the meal would begin within minutes.
With Erika now functioning on about one hour of sleep in the last thirty-six hours it was with great appreciation that the pace of Le Chateaubriand was up-tempo and the crowd boisterous – with courses arriving every 10-15 minutes and the servers all professional yet engaging I’m rather certain that anything less would have left her with her face in the soup – especially after we each enjoyed a glass of house wine, for herself a crisp white and for myself a fruity rose.With Chef Aizpitarte checking in on us twice himself during the course of the meal I will say that despite the restaurant’s fame and success (and their apparent inability to answer the phone on multiple attempts to secure a reservation) it was undeniable that the restaurant’s goal was not only to make sure everyone was enjoying their meal, but to make sure everyone was having a great time.
For our first bites of the 50€ menu we would receive a number of amuses bouche in rapid succession – the first a quartet of flawless Black Sesame Gougeres – ping-pong ball sized pockets of choux loaded with creamy gruyere and dusted with a sweet coating to keep the seeds in place.Tasty – melt in the mouth – a clever spin on a classic.
Our second amuse would arrive in a small bowl – a thin slice of turbot ceviche in rhubarb infused oil and vinegar.Clean and brisk with the vinegar a shock to the palate I personally think the dish would have been better served by a more hefty fish as the turbot’s mild flavor was mostly overwhelmed, but all in all the “broth” was quite pleasant.
Moving on with the flurry of small plates our third dish would arrive mere seconds on the tail of the first – this time a grilled bone-in anchovy topped with dried pomegranate – simple, sweet and salty – I have to admit I liked it much more than I expected I would and so did my sister (so much that she would actually order anchovy the next day at Le Cinq.)
For the next dish we would receive a dish that could have easily served as a legitimate course at some of the other restaurants we dined at during our visit – a salad of Golden Beets, Olives, Sea Urchin, Radish and Sea Lettuce adorned with a light vinaigrette.With the beets earthy and sweet, the olives and urchin briny, and the radish lending it’s characteristic peppery finish to the party I really liked this dish – a simple arrangement of excellent products that all worked together to a nice effect.
Fairing less well than the previous dishes would be our final amuse – the only dud of the evening and all the more disappointing because someone actually had to pick such an abrasive plant to make it.Titled Stinging nettle Gazpacho with Lime this oily and cold soup largely tasted like bitter cooked spinach with small bits of lime dispersed in its depths and honestly nothing about it worked for me while Erika addressed it with a “well, that was interesting” and crinkled nose.
Moving forward to the menu proper it was just after 9:00 when we would receive our first of two baskets of bread – a lovely whole wheat sourdough provided from Poujauran and delivered without butter.Having dined at La Bigarrade earlier in the day and now at Le Chateaubriand I’ll note that this was the only day during our visit that I did not nearly overdose on top quality butter…a damned shame, to be sure, but at the time I guess I did not yet know what I was missing.
For our first menu course of the evening we would again see a seasonal ingredient that featured prominently throughout our travels – asparagus.Typically one of my very favorite vegetables, Inaki’s version that evening consisted of a quartered White Asparagus resting in a pool of Smoked unpasteurized Sheep’s Milk and Olive Oil topped with Parmesan, “Lemon caviar” and Diced Turnips.Pungent and aromatic even at a distance the dish was dazzling – so much so that I actually dug in before snapping a picture.Smoky and pungent, sour yet briny – and everything anchored by those lovely asparagus…a mélange of flavors with each identifiable but none overwhelming – a flawless dish that I’ll remember for a long time to come.
Moving rapidly from vegetable to fish our second course would be nearly as successful as the first in part because it featured my very favorite fish, but also because it arrived paired with another melody of flawless vegetables and an intense yet complementary sauce.Described simply as Saint-Pierre (John Dory) with Pork Jus and Carrots the simplicity of the description undersold the variety of the ingredients and intensity of the flavors as the plate presented no less than five types of carrots each at varying degrees of cooking, a perfect slice of John Dory with crispy skin, and a salty pork reduction that brought everything to sharp focus.
In our main course I must note the “flaw” of Le Chateabriand’s menu – specifically that it gives the diner no choice and that those who don’t favor specific items are indeed taking a risk – for my sister and I that “risk” was beef – something that we certainly aren’t allergic to or opposed to, but something we simply don’t order when given alternative options.With that noted, our main course (of course) was Beef brisket with foraged greens, leeks, pine, mango powder, and potato chip – and surprisingly it was actually quite good.Served as a large salad with the beef entirely covered on arrival the protein itself was smoky and beefy as expected, but what set this dish apart from the standard was the unique combination of greens – some bitter, some peppery – the pungent leeks and mild pine, and most of all the intense mango powder that gave the whole plate a sweet overtone.While I still cannot say I am a beef convert, between this experience and that at Roberta’s and Peter Luger in Brooklyn just a week earlier I’m certainly becoming much more accepting of it.
For the final course/courses of the evening the diner is offered two options – a pair or desserts or a plate of cheese.With Erika tired and not particularly hungry she opted for the fromage while I decided to see what Chef’s team could do with the sweets – personally, given the small portion and tame selection of shaved aged comte, creamy chevre, and mild sheep’s milk cheese that Erika received I’d have to say my decision was the better of the two, even if the theme seemed strangely similar to that of lunch.
With Inaki checking in on us for the second time just as dessert was delivered I found it humorous when he said “this is a new one – hopefully it works – I liked it” – it was especially interesting when I saw the dish and realized it was a less ornate version of something I’d had in the past at Providence LA.Titled Endive, Orange, Olive, and Chicory the dish featured house made orange gelato served beneath leafs of crispy bitter endive and dusted with crunchy bits of chicory.Tasty but a tad bitter for my sweet tooth it really wasn’t until I got to the chopped bits of olive that the nuances of this dish really came out – but even then I felt it could have benefited from more sweetness.
Following the orange my second dessert was presented as “different types of chocolate” and celery root ice cream.Served in a white bowl and with at least 5 textural variations of chocolate ranging from cocoa powder to a thick ganache plus shards of paper thin milk chocolate and a ground bar that may very well have been 100% cocoa the dish was certainly chocolate and certainly complex – however what made it delicious was the ice cream – a flavor that on its own was actually overpowering, yet when blended with the chocolate provided a bitter and spicy yet peculiarly sweet and creamy foil that made every flavor seem more vibrant – more different from the others.
With another bottle of house water delivered our final bites of the evening were perhaps the most peculiar mignardises I’ve ever seen – Candied Rhubarb with Fennel Seed – tasty and memorable if only for the oddity of the whole thing.
With the hour drawing close to 10:30, my sister now increasingly drowsy, and a line growing into the street I was surprised again that there was no pressure to leave even after we declined coffee – as a matter of fact, even after we asked for the bill it took a good fifteen minutes for the even 100€ check (I’m still uncertain as to why we were not charged for the wine) to arrive.Bid farewell by our server and navigating the crowd it was only when we got outside that we realized exactly how big the line was – or perhaps “line” is an unfair term as the crowd from Le Chateaubriand had more or less merged with that from Aizpitarte’s La Dauphin next door.For the sake of those waiting I hope they offer a second seating, though I honestly can’t be sure.
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Of course with any reservation as difficult to secure and any restaurant as highly regarded as Le Chateaubriand the question becomes “does it live up to the hype?” – a difficult question under any circumstance, but even more so after a single visit considering what Aizpitarte is doing; fundamentally recreating a high-concept menu each and every night in a city where all the “best” restaurants generally serve the same consistently excellent menu for months at a time before changing seasonally.Is it the 9th best restaurant in the world – perhaps not – but I imagine on some nights it could be, and considering the price point I’d certainly go back for that possibility – assuming I could land a reservation.
…as is the case with almost any flight I take we arrived late to Paris – 55 minutes late to be exact and with the hassles of customs and transportation our expected 9:00am arrival had us running dangerously late for our first meal of the trip – a lunch I’d originally planned as a dinner only to find out that 12:30 on April 8th was the last seating at La Bigarrade for the duration of our visit as the team was taking a vacation Italy.Slightly frustrated but undeterred and never one to be late let alone miss a meal a decision was made – we’d hop the RER-B and head to the restaurant before the apartment – luggage in hand; as good fortune would have it we’d arrive at 12:26 and be the third table to fill with the rest of the twenty seats packed less than fifteen minutes later.
Greeted with all smiles and seated at a lovely two-top in the middle of the room with our bags stored in the broom closet I opted for the seat facing the open kitchen while my sister faced the street – an ideal for both of us as I would watch Chef Christophe Pelé and his team craft each dish from start to finish in silent harmony while my sister people watched the street outside and the delightful French waiters working the room.…and speaking of the room, quaint and charming to say the least with electric candles suspended from the ceiling, hues of green and yellow dominating the color scheme, and fresh cut flowers decorating vases throughout – I imagine the space is actually quite romantic at night.
With the “menu” delivered and explained – essentially a carte blanche chef’s whim 8 course option for 45€ or a longer 12-course experience for 65€ the decision was simple and after confirming we had no dietary restrictions and ordering a bottle of still water we sat back and let the staff take care of us for the next 170 minutes – a nearly three hour ride that was nearly perfect save for the opinionated couple seated next to us who seemed dead-set on nitpicking every detail of the meal and interjecting their comments and suggestions into our conversation – a situation that was unfortunately unavoidable due to the restaurant’s small size, but certainly not a fault of Chef Pelé and team. (**interestingly we’d run into this same pair again at L’Arpege 3 days later but would thankfully be all the way across the dining room…call me crazy, but I just don’t understand people who seem to want a meal to fall short.**)
With myself hungry and wide awake after a great sleep on the plane and my sister a bit jetlagged the first item to arrive would be a golden square of Focaccia with Fleur de Sel and a small bowl of aromatic and fruity olive oil that we were told was pressed only 5 days prior – an excellent little bite that I’d have invariably overindulged on if more than a single serving were offered.
With the bread slate cleared the second course to arrive would be a “special” only received by three of the tables – a Fried Softshell Crab withgrilled lime and white truffle infused sea salt.Instructed to drizzle the lime over the crab, dip it in the salt, and take a bite this margarita inspired bite of crustacean was absolutely outstanding – the protein’s intense sweetness easily shining through the citrus and salt and whetting the appetite for what was to come.
Course three would be my least favorite of the afternoon from a team that otherwise executed balance at a very high level.Served in a small glass Razor clam with grapefruit granita and radish was a textural masterpiece of smooth shellfish, icy citrus, and crispy bitter radish – unfortunately the grapefruit simply overwhelmed everything else in flavor and the overall scope of the dish was lost (a theme I’d see ad nauseum five days later at L’Astrance.)
Moving on at a nice pace our fourth course would arrive as a duet – on one plate a sous-vide slice of Veal with cod roe and persimmon and alongside it a small bowl with a poached quail egg in dashi broth topped with dried shrimp and sansho pepper.Clearly showing his fascination with Asian flavors we were instructed to first eat the veal and then take the egg as a shot – instructions that were followed to great effect as the mild veal (especially for two people who don’t eat much beef or veal) melted in the mouth with the briny eggs balanced nicely by the persimmon.Equally impressive was the second portion with the mild egg and briny dashi brought into full effect by the pepper’s characteristic biochemical effect – a sort of savory palate cleanser, if you will.
Dishes five and six would arrive separately, one warm and one cold, but it was explained that they were both composed of the very same animal – a single langoustine per diner.For the first dish the tail of the langoustine was presented steamed over sorrel jus and topped with “mashed caviar” and cowslip stem alongside lemon gelee and a sesame almond croquette – a mélange of flavors that touched every part of the mouth and presented something new with each bite.Having never tasted cowslip before I was surprised by its sweetness, but what impressed even more was oddly the mashed caviar – a paste with the texture of a dried fruit but the briny essence of caviar that worked beautifully with the springy crawfish.
Following the first dish in short succession would be a chilled custard of langoustine roe topped with warm langoustine foam – a savory panna cotta that reminded me of a similar dish I’d experienced at Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist.Briny, eggy, and slightly sweet I really liked both presentations of the langoustine while my sister did not fancy the second and allowed me to finish hers as well.
Having been promised a menu heavy on seafood from the start our seventh seven would serve as a break in the action with two hefty spears of Green Asparagus dipped in miso presented simply with a sliced kumquat and crumbled chicory – an simple yet elegant course that would prove the first of many encounters with asparagus on this trip and aside from a few prime examples all I can say is that it when it comes to asparagus the United States has a lot of catching up to do.
With Erika and I still discussing our fantastic vegetal intermezzo the next dish to arrive would be my favorite of the afternoon not only because it was delicious, but because it gave me a whole new appreciation for two ingredients I generally would not order – Mackerel and Capers.Described as Mackerel, Cocoa, Lardo, Capers, and Cowslip Flowers the dish featured a warm 2-3oz slice of meaty skin-on fish draped with a thin shaving of lardo and dressed with briny capers and fruity cowslip flowers.Salty yet restrained what truly brought this dish together was a reduction of cocoa powder and butter drizzled over the fish and providing a smooth foil to the otherwise hefty flavors – if a fish dish could ever be described as “perfumed” (as many American Menus describe duck or lamb) this was it.
Our final fish of the meal would be another successful plate, though honestly given its constituents it would have been nearly impossible to fail.Described as Turbot, Butter, Chives, Leeks, Morels, and Bonito Flakes a simple look at the ingredients and a picture is really all you need to imagine how impressive the dish was – flawless turbot poached in butter, melted leeks, earthy morels, and salty bonito – like I said, impossible.
For our “main course” Chef Pelé actually emerged from the kitchen to discuss the sourcing and to deliver the two-part presentation himself – the first half a shocker (Raw Lamb Liver, Espelette Pepper, Radish, and Salt) and the second a stunner (Corsica Lamb, Citrus, Peanut, Spinach, and Anchovy.)Bearing in mind my sister’s feelings about “meat flavored jello” I could tell immediately that I’d be enjoying two bites of the liver – a surprisingly mild metallic flavor that was reigned in by the bitter radish and given some texture by the salt and pepper.
Moving on to the second presentation – quite frankly I had no idea that a lamb’s flesh could be so light, a nearly Kurobuta pork pink that we were told originates from the animals’s milk-only diet prior to slaughter.Expertly prepared and impressively lean the lamb itself was perhaps the best I’ve ever tasted while its accoutrements of a lemon cube topped with anchovy, citrus poached spinach, and a crunchy peanut were all tasty but largely stood as textural contrasts and visual stimuli neither enhancing nor detracting from the centerpiece’s marvelous flavor.
Acting as the segue from savory to sweet our cheese course came pre-plated along with slices of Poilane bread and a smear of lemon compote.A small selection but well culled and described at length the days selections would be our first of many tastes of Comte on the trip – a somewhat soft two-year aged version whose affineur I neglected to write down and a pungent and creamy fresh Crottin goat cheese that went nicely with the yeasty and hearty bread.
Moving forward to the sweets – all told there would be nine divided into four courses – the tasting would begin with a troika of small bowls, Pineapple, Caramel, Celery / Passion fruit, Celery Root, Pastry / and Lemon Cauliflower Panna Cotta.With each bite working left to right a balanced exploration of fruits and vegetables of various textures, flavor, and color I actually found these desserts far more successful than previous such attempts in United States restaurants such as Momofuku Ko and I particularly enjoyed the cube of fresh pineapple atop warm caramel with “celery caviar” providing a bitter and vegetal note that lingered on the palate.Were they the best desserts of the trip – hardly – but considering what followed they definitely “fit” the progression.
For our next triple-bill working left to right we would receive a flavorful Goat Milk Ice Cream with Chocolate Shavings and Kumquat, a grassy and thick Green Tea Crème Brulee infused with Coriander and topped with Edamame, and an outstanding sweet meets savory combination of smoked soy sauce and honey meringue that literally evaporated on mastication leaving behind a flavor that I’d have gladly ended any meal with – but there was still more.
Offered coffee which we both accepted (and were not charged for) the next offering to arrive was a pair – on one plate a thick ganache of Domori chocolate cake topped with a smoked almond and fleur de sel that seemed to go only to those opting for coffee and on the other a cube of mango dusted with curry and a raw peanut.
Sitting and chatting (and as yet unfamiliar with the French custom of having to request the bill) it would be approximately thirty minutes before it was only ourselves and another table still filled.With the chef and two additional members of the kitchen staff stopping by to say hello and thank us for coming in “all the way from Ohio” it was only then that we thought to request the bill – a total clocking in at a mere 135€ including water, tax, and tip that was delivered with the single best Macaron of our trip – a crackling bite of vanilla bean pastry dusted with powdered sugar and filled with aromatic white truffle infused cream.
Bags collected and bid farewell by our server we returned to the streets of Paris refreshed, awake, and rejuvenated by our meal at La Bigarrade and even after nine and a half days of outstanding eating at some of the world’s best restaurants the flavors, textures, and presentations we experienced there still hold a special place in my memory.Strictly “French” food it most certainly is not, but fusion executed at a very high level it absolutely was – and compared to other similarly leaning chefs (both in Paris and at home) it was an outstanding experience at a bargain price – I’d recommend it to anyone and considering other meals we had on the trip would certainly not be surprised to see Chef Pelé and team garner a third star some day down the line.
In 1998 I made my first and only trip overseas – a class trip to Paris.I was 18 years old, a senior in High School, and while my cultural knowledge was actually quite good for my age my knowledge of food most certainly was not.Sure I may have been the only member of our group capable of identifying various artists in the Louvre or Musee D’Orsay but I was also the guy who planned a late night trip to McDonalds to find out of the QPC was actually called a Royale with Cheese (it was) and the majority of our meals on that visit consisted of the burgers, pizza, The Hard Rock Café, and my buddy freaking out when he ate a piece of salmon on a salad that he thought was a carrot.How bad was it – well, my best food memory of that trip was our chaperone biting into a crepe and drizzling a few tablespoons of liquid chocolate all over her shirt.
With the above noted and myself now thirteen years older, many times wiser (at least I’d like to think so,) and with hundreds of great meals under my belt I vowed that it was time for remediation and that this time I was going to do it right and with the right person – in this case with my sister, a young art student who deferred all planning to me and thereby ended up finding herself on a whirlwind tour of nearly thirty museums and landmarks, seventeen restaurants,nineteen patisseries/boulangeries/epiceries and twenty six Michelin Stars over the course of 9.5 days – to say the least the trip was memorable, but to say more it was nearly perfect and between the weather, the sites, the food, and the people I could not have asked for more.
Taking into account our aggressive agenda it goes without saying that our days began early and ended late yet each day one thing held true – every single one began with visit to one of Paris’ most well regarded boulangeries, patisseries, or epiceries for takeaway goods en route to the day’s first destination…and many of the days also included a later visit to another for a snack.From the 1st to the 20th and from old school to new our selections at each generally consisted of a few personal favorites and that which looked best or came most highly recommended.Which place was best?I can’t be sure – all save a couple were better than 95% of what I’ve tasted in the states and as such I feel the only way to describe such an experience is en masse – a simple list of what we ordered, how it looked and tasted, and notes on the location and service if warranted.
Beginning first with the only unplanned stop, Fauchon, a choice that was based more-so on curiosity than a recommendation – or perhaps it was too big, gaudy, and convenient to pass up.Located at La Place de la Madeleine and open early with big glass windows featuring all sorts of jams, pastries and Easter goodies to lure us in I can only say I wish more “chains” in America were this clean, pleasant, and nicely stocked.After browsing the myriad counters of meats, seafood, and confections a quick stop at the bread counter followed by the coffee counter (the only place in the city save for Starbucks where American style coffee was on the menu) found us at the table with our bounty – a Croissant, an Almond Croissant, a Canele, a Kugelhopf, and a Madeline – each quite tasty compared to my American reference point but only the Canele a true standout; the best of a trip where I sampled many with its golden exterior crisp and the interior an eggy custard with hefty notes of vanilla.
Sticking with the 8th, another stop during our visit was perhaps the most famous patisserie in Paris – the Laduree location at 16 rue Royale.Small, cramped, and consistently with a line when we walked past on subsequent days it was with good fortune that on the day of our visit the store was largely empty and the dining room perhaps half full.With the staff both pleasant and patient as we browsed the selections I’ll note that I was never once hassled about taking pictures and as a matter of fact we were even asked if we wanted to take a seat in the dining room to enjoy our pastries after our purchase – an offer we graciously declined, instead opting to take our breakfast with us to the Gardens of Tuileries while we waited for the Louvre to open.
Still full from the night before our Laduree choices were regrettably few, but of those we sampled each was amongst the best of the trip.Beginning first with the famous Macaroons, our selections consisted of Pistache, Chocolate Citron Vert, Cassis Violet, and Petale de Rose – each with an immaculate crispy shell crackling on bite and giving way to lovely creams and ganaches; all in all the best macaroons of the trip save for the Vanilla mignardise at La Bigarrade.In addition to the Macaroons Laduree also excelled in delivering the butteriest croissant of the trip and a St. Honore with dense choux balanced against creamy almond custard, smooth whipped cream, and crunchy caramelized sugar.
Sticking with the theme of fame, a later mid-day stop during our travels in the 6th was to the home of Pierre Herme at 72 rue Bonaparte, a shop that makes Laduree seem large and a line that made all but Jacques Genin seem mild.Waiting patiently after being adamantly advised that pictures were not allowed our selections were this time large and varied – each taken to the park across the street for consumption while watching some elderly gentleman play bocce ball.Beginning first with his (self described) famous macaroons our selections would consist of six – Pistache, Rose Petal, Milk Chocolate and Passion Fruit, Olive Oil and Vanilla, Carrot/Orange and Cannelle, and Reglisse and Violet.More chewy and less crisp than those at Laduree I will first note that two of the flavors were total failures – the rose petal tasting like perfume without sweetness and the Milk Chocolate and Passion fruit tasting somewhat akin to bile – while the others were merely decent and only the Olive Oil and Vanilla presented something truly novel, tasty, and worth the price.
Moving on to the Herme’s less famous but far more successful creations there were five – a Croissant, an Ispahan Croissant, a Canele, an Ispahan Paris Brest, and a Caramel Mille Feuille – and all but the Canele (too soft, too bland) were quite impressive, with the croissant airy and crisp, the Mille Feuille the best pre-made version of the trip, and the two Ispahan options finding success where the Rose Petal Macaroon failed – flawlessly marrying the accent of rose with the butter, sugar, and raspberry tones.
With the area around the Gardens of Luxembourg and the Latin Quarter particularly fruitful for shopping, pastry, and sightseeing another of our early morning stops would be to Gerard Mulot, a large shop where the largely English-naïve staff was surprisingly skilled and navigating my high-school French but rather unimpressive in their delivery of quality baked goods.Arriving just moments after the doors opened our order would be five items – a Croissant, a Pain au Chocolate, a Canele, a vanilla Mille Feuille, and a cafe St. Honore – yet despite our early arrival nothing was warm, the croissant was too dense, and quite frankly I wonder if some of what we received was left over from the day prior, particularly a chewy sponge of a canele, a soggy Mille Feuille, and a St. Honore that was dense with intensely flavored but largely lacking in style or choux.
Continuing with breakfasts in the 6th and greeted with a lovely butter cookie the best croissant and pane au chocolate that my mouth has yet to experience were delivered by the skilled team at Poilâne.A small storefront well deserving of its considerable accolades our early wake-up call was rewarded by a room chockablock full of warm yeasty breads and stellar customer service that delivered a croissant featuring the perfect balance of crisp shell and fluffy interior alongside a similarly textured pane au chocolate with its core still slightly soft.With lunch and dinner plans for the day I’m remiss to say that we did not order any of their famous breads but instead finished our sampling with a warm tart full of caramelized cinnamon apples juxtaposed against a crispy golden shell.
Continuing our tour of the 6th and 7th would be snack at Hugo and Victor – a small and glitzy patisserie that seemed more style than substance on the exterior but actually turned out to deliver excellent flavors despite sub-par textures…or perhaps excellent flavors and textures despite inferior customer service.With all the pastries presented behind elegant glass display cases and boxed up out of sight in the back I will note that although the service girl at the front was quite helpful, the back of the house did a horrendous job of boxing the jewel box creations and as such both were in shambles after a mere five minute walk to a public bench to sit down and enjoy. With the Caramel Fleur de sel Mille Feuille a flaky pile of custard and the St. Honore a smooshed amalgam of choux, coffee, and Chantilly I can only say the flavors were quite tasty while the macaroons – Chocolate, Tahitian Vanilla, Praline, and Cassis were all a bit chewy but very intense in their respective flavors.
Remaining in the 7th, this time for a late breakfast after finally sleeping in one day, our stop at La Patisserie des Reves was perhaps the best breakfast of the trip – largely because there was really nothing breakfast about it.With an elegant collection presented under glass domes and the pastries still warm from the oven the store purporting the best Paris Brest in the city delivered on its promise – unless of course you take into account the version at Le Pre Catalan that costs nearly 4x as much.Flawless choux – crisp on the outside and nearly hollow within – thick praline cream, and a touch of confectioner’s sugar – lovely, balanced, and not overly sweet.
Additional selections from La Patisserie des Reves included a densely packed apple croissant, a light and flaky pain au Valrhona chocolate, an enormous lemon accented Madeline, and a uniquely presented St. Honore with Chantilly Cream atop one finger of Vanilla Custard and Coffee Custard laden balls of Caramelized Choux resting atop a second – it was beautiful, it was delicious, and while such generalizations are always hard to make it might have been my favorite non-restaurant item of the entire trip.
Taking into account our planned trip to Versailles the final notable epicurean stop in the 7th was La Grande Epicerie de Paris – an enormous market featuring an endless variety of French foods and confections; it was there that we would pick up Butter, Peppered Brie de Meaux, and a jar of Christine Ferber’s incredible White Cherry Jam to take on a picnic with pastries collected from Vandermeersch the following morning – a Sunday.
With the small shop located in the 12th, our apartment just outside the 19th, and the RER-C connecting closer to the center of the city I’ll admit that Vandermeersch was perhaps the most “out of the way” selection of our trip, but it was also one of the most rewarding as a quick trip via Metro would land us outside the doors in a line of approximately ten before the doors would even open – having done my research I knew what the people were there for and I was there for the same – their famous Kugelhopf, a $12Euro 1+ kilogram yeasty cake loaded with sugar, golden rum-soaked raisins, and notes of vanilla and honey – a cake alone that would justify the trek.
Never one to be satisfied by just one selection our additional samplings from Vandermeersch would consist of a crunchy baguette that went nicely with the cheese, butter, and jam, a butter croissant and pain au chocolate only slightly less impressive than those of Poilâne, and an almond croissant with a crunchy exterior that shattered on mastication, a fluffy interior not unlike that of the standard butter croissant, and a thin layer of frangipane that added plenty of almond flavor without weighing the whole pastry down – along with Julien it would be the best Almond Croissant of our trip.
Bearing in mind the above it seems only logical to discuss Jean Noel Julien’s patisserie in the 1st next – given its central location there was certainly an aspect of convenience in this visit, but it was also recommended by a couple of well respected palates and the rather large and densely packed storefront would actually provide two stunning croissants – one butter and one almond – along with a respectable Coffee St. Honore and Paris Brest, a fantastic Cinnamon Custard Éclair…and another soggy Canele.Specifically focusing on the croissants both versions were crispy on the exterior – literally shattering to the bite, with a spacious and buttery interior as light as I’ve ever found.With the butter croissant sporting a golden tan and the almond only touched with frangipane I only wish we’d have gotten there earlier to taste them warm because in all honesty under those circumstances I imagine they could have been the best of all we managed to sample.
Taking a break in the pastry department two additional diversions during our visit to The City of Lights were for ice cream – a topic I know a bit more about than authentic French pastry given my home-base in one of America’s supposed ice cream capitals.With advice coming from many angles and supposed authorities our eventual stops would be two – Philip Constant near the Gardens of Luxembourg and Berthillon on the ile de Saint Louis.Beginning first with Constant, a man whose café we would visit days later I have to say I was not impressed – perhaps we arrived too late in the day, perhaps we ordered wrong, or perhaps it just did not fit my palate but the two selections – Chocolate Rum Raisin and Praline were both overly sweet, minimally nuanced, gummy, and overpriced.All things considering I rather wish I would have ordered some of their chocolates instead.
Faring much better than Constant would be Berthillon – a location perhaps as famous as Laduree and Herme where an hour long line seemed present each day we passed by the outdoor scoop-shop – at least until one day a lovely young waitress informed those of us standing in line that there was no wait and no minimum order if we would like to sit inside instead.Taking a seat and browsing the flavors I’ll admit the decisions was a difficult one, but in the end I opted for three tastes – ice creams in the form of Nougat au miel and chocolat noir plus a scoop of sorbet poire.Served with a crispy tuille and each dainty and loaded with flavor my only advice to anyone going would be order whatever you like – but make sure you try the pear – the texture is velvet and the flavor is like that of a pear at its peak of ripeness; it is exquisite.
Two additional quick stops during our travels would be des Gâteaux et du Pain for a cake to take to a friend’s dinner party and to Patrick Roger for what some consider the best chocolates in the world.Arriving at des Gateaux rather late in the day (literally 10 minutes before they were scheduled to close) the selections were largely picked over, but what we managed to come away with was actually quite tasty – a Chocolate Caramel Fleur de Sel Cake featuring buttery caramel dough with a slightly liquid center of salty caramel topped with crunchy caramel and chocolate crisps, large flakes of fleur de sel, ans subsequently coated with a dark chocolate shell.Great on its own and great with coffee I vowed to return to the shop on a subsequent date to try more of their selections but we unfortunately ran out of time.
Moving on to Patrick Roger – all I can say is that their customer service was unparalleled and both young lady’s had a nearly encyclopedic knowledge of the “artist’s” works.Admitting my unfamiliarity with the line I was treated to three chocolates while in the store – one cocoa truffle, one black mini-rocher, and one citrus ganache – and subsequently asked them to pick out the two bars that they felt represented the best of Roger’s line.After much debate the selections included two tablets at $9EU each; the 65% Madagascar and 70% Equateur with the first featuring a smoky and lightly fruity taste and the second a sharp citrus with a peppery finish.All in all I have to say I understand the hype but all things considering I’d be hard pressed to pay the price again – I love chocolate, but like wine there seems to be a degree of diminishing returns when comparing the price of the “best” with something simply “vastly better than average.”
Getting back to the pastries, another morning stop during our travels was one of the older and more well respected boulangeries in Paris – Stohrer Pâtissier Traiteur, a rather large store open seven days a week in the 2nd.With a large variety of breads and pastries both sweetand savory plus multiple demi portions our selecting here were myriad and ran the gamut from a mini Croissant, Almond Croissant, and Pain Au Chocolat, to full sized Canele, Pain Framboise, Baba Au Rhum, and Mille Feuille.Largely unimpressed by the croissants and pains au chocolate and Strawberry – not crispy, not flaky, and far too dense – it was here that we would find the second of three excellent Canele on the trip and a pair of nicely executed pastries in the form of a crunchy pre-made vanilla Mille Feuille and a buttery Baba with whipped cream that held up nicely to a full shot of spiced rum.
Moving further out from the center of Paris on the day of our early morning visit to Sacre Coeur we were fortunate to find Arnaud Delmontel open bright and early with an entire store full of warm products on our arrival – as a matter of fact, the croissant and almond croissant were so fresh that we had to wait for them to come off the wire rack and were gifted a pair of Macaroons (Cassis and Lemon) “for our patience.”With each golden and crunchy I very much enjoyed the Croissant and lightness but found the Almond Croissant to be a bit too full of Frangipane – tasty, but a bit soggy.Additionally opting for yet another Coffee St. Honore and a Paris Brest both were spot on with the Brest crunchy yet hollow and the St. Honore’s filling by far the most bitter and bold of any we tasted.
With the rest of these comments in no particular order the last two stores in this longwinded review were indeed the last two we visited – one for a pre-dinner dessert on our last night in Paris and the other for items taken to the airport while we awaited our plane.Beginning first with dessert, the location was one of the most hyped (by “foodies” and friends both) and therefore came with high expectations – some met, some not.Owned and operated by Jacques Genin and considered by many to produce some of the best products in Paris, I will first notice that if you want a seat, good luck – we waited nearly an hour and that was with only two small parties in front of us.Secondly, if you want a good selection I’d recommend getting there before 5:00 because by the time we were seated at 6:00 they were already sold out of multiple items.
Getting past the logistics and moving on to the experience I will note that everyone at Jacques Genin including Monsieur Genin himself was extremely friendly and while my sister waited for the table I took the time to do some shopping for my mother and aunt – a box of chocolates (I was gifted two, a lovely honeycomb dark chocolate and a café milk chocolate) and twelve of the famous Caramels (call me crazy, but the Mango Passion fruit did not wow me nearly as much as the traditional and pistachio.)
With the flow of traffic no fault of the restaurant and patrons taking time to enjoy desserts, coffees, and teas it is notable that although there was only one young woman working the room once we were seated the service remained exquisite – orders taken promptly, gifts arriving in the form of four basil chocolates, and finally the desserts – the famous Mille Feuille (Vanilla since Chocolate and Caramel were sold out,) a flawless Paris Brest as thick with luxurious cream as with choux, and a pitcher of hot chocolate so intense that I cannot imagine one person consuming it on his/her own.Made to order and considered by many to be the best Mille Feuille in the city I must say it was a stunning specimen with the pastry literally exploding into shards on pressure.Was it the best in the city – well – it was the best we sampled from a patisserie (or under $10EU.)
Moving on to our final taste of Paris the decision was made to check out something close to the apartment – first the Market at La Place de Fetes and then La Boulangerie par Véronique Mauclerc – a tiny boulangerie reported to be one of the few in the city still using a wood burning oven. With excellent customer service and most options available in “normal” or “well done” (apparently due to temperature variations throughout the oven as best as I could ascertain from my limited French and the clerk’s limited English) we selected here the crispiest and lightest Croissant and most crunchy baguette of our trip, both from the “well done” section and both very…pardon the play on words…well done.Additional orders included a rather average Paris Brest, a lovely Pistachio and Fig Snail loaded with halved figs, a nearly cake-like chocolate Almond Croissant, and a perfectly made cinnamon Canele – many of the items things we’d not seen anywhere else in Paris and all but the Brest well worth a visit.
So there you have it – call it gluttony, call it crazy, or call it a typical Mike vacation – I never claimed to be an expert, just the sort of guy willing to go out of his way to have a great time.I’d do it again in a heartbeat – or at least as soon as I can fit in pants fit for leaving the house again.
If I had to make a list of what I love about New York it would include a number of things; the people, the art, the food, the overall “feel” of the city itself– those to start, plus the Union Squre Hospitality Group – a team that had provided me seven meals at six different locations in the past five visits over the course of four years.Rarely one to dine at the same place twice and generally not a fan of “restaurant groups” one might wonder what it is that USHG does that keeps me coming back over and over again and to that I will say it isn’t only what they do now, but what they did on my very first visit – they made me feel like they care and despite the many changes in my life over the past four years they continue to do so now.Taking that into consideration along with the city, the food, and my friends (plus a little bit of art as it turns out) it really only made sense to end my last trip to The Big Apple at Union Square Café, Danny Meyer’s very first restaurant.
Having admittedly dined very well during each of my visits to New York it actually seemed somewhat strange to me that I’d really never considered USC on my previous visits but as is the case with much of Gotham there always seemed to be something bigger, better, flashier, or newer – especially considering the relatively downscale “Italian-esque” (my words, not theirs) menu when compared to places like The Modern, EMP, or Gramercy Tavern.Always the bridesmaid despite the fact that the spot has essentially redefined New York dining since 1985 while remaining #1 on Zagat’s list of most popular restaurants in the city for the better part of ten years I will admit here that USC almost didn’t even make the cut for this trip either, but with a late change to the ABC Kitchen menu and some time restrictions due to my flight plus ready, willing, and able co-diners the stars finally aligned.
With reservations set for the middle of the lunch hour – a table for three in the main dining room – my arrival at Union Square Café would be perfectly in step with my friends despite the gloomy weather and exchanging pleasantries now for the fourth straight day our coats were checked and we were led through the loud bar area to a quiet and cozy table in the middle of the 3/4 dining room right away.Greeted promptly on seating by our server, a friendly middle-aged man who would keep beverages and bread basket full throughout the afternoon the menu was presented and we were left to our conversations and decisions.
With wooden chairs and white tableclothed tables atop the hardwood floors and light pastels adorning the walls the feel of Union Square Café was decidedly upscale – something like Café Boulud but not quite as tightly spaced – and with a large menu our decision process became one of capacity more so than what sounded best, a decision process helped along by not only our server but General Manager Sam Lipp, an absolutely wonderful host well known to my friends from his long tenure with the Union Square Hospitality Group.
With decisions finally made, essentially two appetizers to be shared as appetizers, two appetizers to serve as my main, and an entrée for each of my friends the first item to arrive from the kitchen was the bread basket and a sizable bowl of olives along with butter topped in celery salt.Having always been impressed by the USHG bread selections this offering would again prove quite good with a tasty Fennel-Seed flatbread and crusty whole wheat holding up their end while the baguette was somewhat flavorless and soft.In addition to the bread the olives were a nice touch while the butter was smooth, grassy, and slightly sweet.
Nibbling on bread while chatting amongst ourselves and again with Mr. Lipp who stopped by with Michael’s wine our first plates to arrive were a pair of dissimilar bedfellows – the first titled “Chinese 5 Spice Fried Duck Meatballs – French Fried Confit, Snow Pea-Cabbage Slaw” and featuring five succulent golf ball sized rounds of tender duck confit blended with ample notes of cinnamon and anise and fried to perfection.Paired with a mild slaw and topped with sweetened fermented soy sauce, soy seeds, and carrot vinaigrette the plate could have stood to be a little warmer in my opinion, but for a restaurant leaning toward Italy their take on Eastern flavors was quite good.
For the second shared appetizer of the afternoon we opted to go with the house specialty as recommended by our server and arriving with more than a dozen creamy dumplings the “Ricotta Gnocchi – Tomato-Basil Passatina, Pecorino Romano” was every bit as good as billed.Amongst my favorite foods whether in the form of potato, choux, spinach, or cheese these smooth balls of mild cheese could not have been lighter and adecorated sparsely with mildly sweet tomato sauce and a hefty grating of Pecorino the flavors were like a hint of spring – vegetal, fresh, and delicious.
Making short work of our appetizers it would be perhaps twenty minutes before our main courses would follow and with the business lunch crowd now heading back to their workplaces the pace of the restaurant as well as the volume in the bar became much more relaxed.With a second wine poured to go with my friend’s main course his choice was “Wild Striped Bass alla Barcaiola – Soft Polenta, Broccoli Rabe.”Featuring easily 12 ounces of nicely prepared fish alongside smooth yet textural polenta blended with aged cheese and tender broccoli rabe the most interesting aspect of this dish actually proved to be the sauce, a blend of anchovies, capers, and garlic that we were told came from a nearly quarter-century old recipe and the sort of flavors I’d have never thought to pair with such a mild protein, but flavors that none-the-less worked and brought out some of the heavier meaty tones of the fish.
Moving on to Rosalind’s selection this meal would once again see her order the Lamb Chops – and this time there was enough to go around and then some to take home.Titled “Lamb Chops “Scotta Dita” – Swiss Chard, Potato-Gruyère Gratin” and prepared just past medium these ample slices of young lamb were nicely charred on the grill and full of flavor on their own, but adding nuance was a glaze/sauce described as an admixture of mustard, balsamic, and garlic that simply made the flavors all the more savory and bold.With the protein’s flavor profile so pronounced, the plate mates in this case turned out to be largely overshadowed but tasty, on one hand bitter chard kissed with olive oil and balsamic and on the other a crispy au gratin potato with very mild cheese and a bit too little salt for my tastes.
Moving on to my selection – two half-portion appetizers actually – my first choice was described as a house favorite and on tasting the “Lasagna alla Bolognese – With Sunny Side Up Knoll Krest Egg” I instantly understood why.First off, beginning with the noodles and the sauce – the first perfectly al dente and the second zippy and slightly acidic with an almost chorizo smokiness to the pork – stopping there it would have been one of the better lasagnas I’ve ever tasted.Then add an egg – a smooth and runny one at that – let’s just say I mopped the plate clean.
Speaking of wiped the plate clean, as good as the lasagna and first plate of gnocchi may have been, my second entrée was perhaps the best pasta of the bunch; Potato Gnocchi – Gorgonzola Fonduta, Radicchio, Vin Cotto.Beginning first with the pasta, this time a potato based dumpling even lighter than the first, they were as good as any I’ve had in New York.Moving next to the toppings – the word “inspired” jumped to mind immediately as the saline cheese proved a perfect foil to the peppery flavors of the Radicchio while the sweet wine served to give everything a bit more pizzazz and a dusting of basil breadcrumbs added just a bit of crunch.
Full but not stuffed and having already scoped out the dessert menu on the way in our server returned to inquire if anyone wanted coffee and with a trip to the airport ahead of me I declined while Rosalind opted for decaf.Knowing for sure that USC’s signature Banana Tart was on our my list to try we inquired about the other options and when no concensus could be reached for which three sounded best we did the only logical thing we could and ordered four.
Beginning first with the aformentioned tart – a recipe that has apparently been being served since USC first opened – the Banana Tart, Macadamia Brittle, and Honey-Vanilla Ice Cream proved every bit worth its designation as a signature dish with the base formed of buttery shortbread studded with Macadamia nuts supporting what was likely an entire banana sliced and coated with a crackling caramel shell.Certainly not a dessert for those with loose teeth (or fillings) the intensely sweet tart was nicely complimented by the ice cream and five lovely caramel coated macadamia nuts who also joined the party.
With the first banana dessert a resounding success, the second would prove perhaps even better – a dessert described as Banana Pretzel Cream Pie with Calvados Caramel and Milk Chocolate Ice Cream and stacked top to bottom with sweet cream atop a layer of sliced bananas supported by soft yet crunchy cake comprised of rich dark chocolate and crushed salted pretzels.Again substantial in sweetness and in portion the dish was finished with a boozy and smoky caramel sauce plus mild chocolate ice cream – an ice cream that despite its great flavor actually proved to serve as a balance to the otherwise intense sweetness of the dish.
With no more bananas left on the menu another dessert we sampled was the Mascarpone Cheesecake with Fennel Shortbread, Meyer Lemon Confit, Grapefruit Sorbet, a dish that was clearly not my choice given my overall laissez-faire attitude about citrus, but a dessert that was none-the-less impressive particularly for the textural aspects of the cheesecake and the manner in which the mild fennel tones served to balance out the acidity of the lemon and grapefruit.
Moving on to our last dessert, my personal selection amongst the four, I opted for the Brioche French Toast with Roasted Apples and Brown Sugar Ice Cream – the least “wowing” of the four in terms of presentation, yet simple and delicious with an airy custard soaked brioche resting in a pool of cinnamon and sugar kissed roasted apples and a quenelle of maple-toned ice cream.It could have been breakfast were it five hours earlier or it could have been dessert five hours later; it was and would be delicious any time.
With desserts plates now vacant our server once again stopped by to see if there was anything else we needed and declining the bill was left to be paid at our leisure.With my friends near to their apartment and myself with time to kill before going to pick up my bags to head to LGA we spent the next twenty to thirty minutes again chatting about the many great meals of my last two trips to New York and once again Sam Lipp stopped by to make sure all had gone well and inviting us to return any time as most of the menu changes frequently – something I would definitely consider given the quality of the meal and the service, both of which were not the same as EMP, The Modern, or Gramercy Tavern but something very warm, familiar, welcoming, and exactly what I’ve come to expect from the Union Square Hospitality Group.
I love kitschy breakfasts – big pancakes covered with sauce or (and?) syrup, a waffle with pie and ice cream, deep fried bacon and egg sandwiches with a peanut butter banana doughnut, bread pudding drowned in chocolate after chicken and bacon waffles; I’ve had all the above plus foie gras atop duck hash yet obscure hours and bad had thus far managed to foil my attempts New York’s parlor of kitsch; the well documented (yeah, there is a documentary) Shopsin’s General Store at the Essex Market.Vowing that I’d not be denied this time around and with my conference now over the day began with a run unlike any other – this time around Central Park – after which I packed my bags, showered, and walked down to the LES arriving at Essex at 9:00am sharp.
Having already heard the rumors of surly service, plethoric swearing, and a “the customer isn’t always right” approach I was happy to see that there was no line waiting as I approached the small shop and with Kenny seated on his chair already holding court about the “f*cking janitors” I waited patiently until I was greeted by his son – wearing a vintage Judas Priest shirt – who approached me and pointed to a chair with a gruff “ ‘morning.”
Replying in the negative when asking if I knew what I wanted as I took a seat on the hard steel chair I was handed a menu and asked if I wanted coffee I agreed.With the menu extensive to say the least and another two parties arriving to be seated I was told to “give me a wave when you’re ready” and left to decide I sipped my coffee – a decent brew that only costs $2 and comes with surprisingly timely refills – until I’d decided on an order I figured would be manageable and waved, ordered, and was told “good choices – it’ll be about 15 minutes.”
Thus far quite pleased with the service at Shopsin’s my wait would provide the sort of scene on which the legends are built, the sort of stories that keep some people away from Shopsin’s while amusing others to no end – in this case directed at two guys seated directly next to me who had the audacity to not only “dilly-dally and waste my time” while ordering, but also to ask if the restaurant offered espresso – a request answered by “do we look like a G*ddamned Starbucks?” but apparently not quite enough to get them thrown out.
With the show over and my coffee again refilled without a request it was at this point, almost exactly fifteen minutes after ordering, that my first dish would arrive and paired with a sealed bottle of 100% pure maple syrup the Brown Sugar, Banana, and Walnut Bread Pudding French Toast was everything I hoped it would be and then some with thick chunks of custard infused challah intermingled with caramelized bananas and toasted walnuts plus ample notes of cinnamon, brown sugar, and vanilla throughout.More a “pancake” of French Toast than a formed French Toast I will note that at $16 the dish was certainly not cheap, but at the same time the substantial portion and quality ingredients – particularly the syrup – shined.
With the French Toast partially consumed my second item to arrive would be perhaps Shopsin’s most famous and not wanting to upset the balance of power and be accused of over-ordering I opted for a half stack of the Mac n’ Cheese Pancakes, a $9 fusion of pancake batter, cooked macaroni, shredded cheddar, and another bottle of maple syrup plus a big ol’ squeeze bottle of hot sauce.Exactly as odd as it sounds and pan fried first before being finished in the oven I have to say that although unexpected I really loved the juxtapositions of both textures and flavors – sweet and savory, fluffy and dense, doughy and crunchy – then add the sweet syrup and the tangy spice of the hot sauce…its just one of those things you have to try for yourself.
With every last bite consumed my server stopped by and with a clap on the back said “good job” and getting one last refill on my coffee the check was delivered – a pricey $35 cash after tax and tip but for a whole lot of really good food.With the bill collected I was asked if I needed change and telling him no I received a “Thanks man” followed by a “Good job – she thought you were too damned skinny to eat all that” yelled from Kenny pointing at the woman next to him to which I replied “I could’ve eaten twice that” with the reaction being a smiling “get the f*ck outta here.”
I generally prefer to write my thoughts on restaurants in the order in which I experience them – it is a stylistic choice mostly, but I also think it also helps to put my trips into context for the people who take their time to read.With that said, sometimes there is an experience that I need to write about immediately in order to capture the feeling of the moment – these occurrences are rare and in the past couple of years there’ve only been a few – my first visit to Alinea, an extended tasting at The French Laundry, and RJ Cooper’s mind-blowing 24-course tasting at Vidalia to be precise.On March 30th I was lucky enough to have another of these experiences, and this time in the least likely of places – a gritty pizza parlor in Brooklyn.
Starting with a bit of back story, I’ll admit I would be lying if I claimed to have discovered Roberta’s on my own – the blog whispers had become a hum even prior to my February visit to the Big Apple and the moment I heard I would be returning to New York in March I made contact about the restaurant-within-a-restaurant experience from Chef Carlo Mirarchi.Pleasant and prompt my first e-mail was handled by Cherie Burnett and the “rules” were explained – 3-4 people, arrive by 5:30, and $140-$160 per person – simple enough, I’d say.With a date agreed upon I’d never hear from Cherie again – from this point forth it would instead be a back and forth string of e-mails between myself, my co-diners, and Chef Mirarchi himself discussing likes, dislikes, and so forth – an impressive display of customer service on par with past experiences with restaurants garnering three stars from Michelin.
With my conference finished at noon and lunch with an old friend at Peter Luger’s in the rearview I will note that for the unfamiliar Roberta’s is not easy to find – all the more testament to the praise it has been getting since it is not exactly the sort of place one stumbles upon.Thankfully with the use of my phone’s GPS and making my way via Subway from the Brooklyn bridge to Bushwick I entered the small restaurant only a minute late for the reservation and thankfully found that my companions had already arrived (though they would later admit they had originally walked right past the small and unassuming space.)Greeted promptly by our server and led to our table, a small four top with benches being replaced by chairs at our request, it would be a matter of moments before we were seated and greeted by Carlo – perhaps the most humble, pleasant, and conversant chef I’ve met to this day.
With Carlo returning to the kitchen (at least for the time being as he would act as his own server for the majority of our 16 courses while also answering myriad questions about his training, sourcing, inspiration, and upcoming changes throughout the evening) the three of us were left to chat and browse the scene – hipster to be sure, but not overly so – and kitschy décor.With a collection of music ranging from Led Zeppelin to The White Stripes coming from the back and the sounds of the growing crowd and pizza makers from the front I’d say the best way to describe Roberta’s was “energetic” and while my co-diners were certainly the oldest in the room (much as I was the youngest the night before at Café Boulud) it was the sort of place where everyone was treated well – a friendly vibe, excellent service, and a conversational tone that was both casual and professional in equal balance.
With wine poured for one and water remaining full for all throughout the nearly 270 minute tasting would begin with “a snack” delivered by Carlo – House Cured Red Wattle Prosciutto with Roberta’s signature crusty house bread.Supple and fatty with a musty and nutty essence the charcuterie itself was a fine example and although good on its own, it was even more impressive as a counterpoint to the crusty and smoky bread – the first bowl served as a sliced bread stick and the second a larger loaf that allowed the delicate crumb more surface area to shine.
Making quick work of the pork our second course would arrive quite quickly and although the least successful of the night, it was still an intriguing exploration of unexpected flavors.Described as Sea Urchin with Bloomsday and Pea Shoots the bite size uni tongue was appropriately briny but unfortunately a bit soft for my tastes.Paired with an aromatic and fruity puddle of melted cheese and a single pea shoot for texture it wasn’t so much that the flavors didn’t work but rather that the ingredients seemed largely independent – none really adding anything to the others…then again, when a dish featuring good quality urchin is the “worst” of the night it speaks volumes of the other 15 courses.
With dish three our table would be treated to the first of many breathtaking courses of the evening – on the surface somewhat surf n’ turf, but far more subtle and complex.Centered by a perfectly seared (IE caramelized outside, raw within) Diver Scallop caught and shucked that very day, the sweet bivalve was balanced with a shaving of headcheese – gamey, unctuous, and fatty.With the duo tasty on its own, the true beauty of the dish was in the details – specifically a slice of red onion and fresh squeezed tangerine juice that lent an acidic and sweet levity to the whole plate and acted to meld the two proteins into a stellar bite.
Course four would be presented by Carlo as his favorite of the night – he even took time to show us a picture of the fish pre-filet on his Iphone.Presented as Sea Perch with Ramps, Yuzu, and Firefly Squid the fish itself was mild and buttery with intensely crispy scales that particularly thrilled my co-diner who’d noted just the night before that he loved crispy skin on his fishes.Paired with beautiful early season ramps, tiny squid with plenty of bounce, and sweet lemon tones the dish was fish done right – the sort of thing you’d expect to emerge from the kitchen of Le Bernardin, or given the crisp skin perhaps Guy Savoy.
After reading my friend’s palate regarding scales with course four, course five was Carlo’s chance to wow mine.Still wobbly and extremely creamy, Poached Duck Egg with Morels, Dill, and Bread Crumbs was all one could desire from an egg dish and given the accoutrements a perfect entry to spring.Served with the whites barely set and creamy yolk pouring forth with minimal pressure from the fork I loved earthy fiber of the morels, the crunch of the bread crumbs, and the faint accent of the dill – again, no special tricks, just an exemplary preparation of quality ingredients.
Taking a quick step back to winter after teasing us with a handful of spring flavors, Oxtail with Lovage and Miner’s Lettuce was a luxurious stew with ample notes of carrot, celery, and parsley not unlike the sort one would expect from the crock pot of their grandmother.Ample and hearty but small in portion the beauty of this dish and its successor were their placing – a reminder that although spring was in the air, we’d still worn our winter coats from Manhattan to Brooklyn that day.
For course seven, another bucolic preparation – this time Trofie pasta with a ragout of Squab Heart and Liver.A sizable portion with thick spindles of flour and water as its base, this was potentially the most “gamey” dish I’ve ever tasted with only a bit of tomato tossed with the pasta to mellow out the offal.Indulging in the toothsome dumplings bite after bite the only way I can think to describe this dish is intense – not in a bad way, but in a way that says you’re not eating some gussied up Michael White dish from a $20,000 pasta machine, you’re eating heart and liver over pasta rolled by hand.
Likely aware of the heft of the previous two dishes, Carlo’s “intermezzo” as he described it was another pasta, this time hand torn Maltagliate graced with citrus and dusting of pecorino – simple, sweet, and an excellent segue to the courses that would follow.
Arriving next to the delight of the lady of the table would be an unmistakable personal favorite of mine as well – Foie Gras.Nicely cleaned and seared just long enough to char the surface, the liver itself was a top quality specimen, but it was the simple accompaniments of cracked black pepper and coarse black garlic that truly allowed it to shine.Generally fancying cold preparations over warm I have to admit that this was perhaps the best Foie Gras I experienced on this trip to New York.
Our tenth course of the evening was an encore to the seventh – the rest of the Squab, feet and all – served with Mascarpone, Gooseberry and Sorrel.Crispy skin, rosy flesh, a thin ribbon of fat – the squab breast was perfect and the legs surprisingly meaty.To be fair I honestly don’t remember the rest of the dish all that well – probably because I was too busy eating the leg by hand, something I’m rather certain I’ve never done during a “tasting menu” before but felt entirely justified (and comfortable) doing at Roberta’s.
Onward to course eleven, none of us showing signs of reaching capacity or palate fatigue, our next plate would feature whole roasted Normandy Duck paired with Kumquat, Turnip, and Swiss Chard.Unfortunately served plated and without legs due to “an issue in the kitchen,” this substantial portion of fowl was quite tasty, though much more mild than I’d have expected – the flavor almost chicken more so than duck.With crackling skin aplenty and well prepared vegetables I cannot say it was on par with some of the better preparations I’ve experienced in Manhattan, but those are some pretty high standards and I’d certainly not hesitate to try Chef Mirarchi’s duck again on future visits.
For the twelfth and thirteenth courses I have to admit I was hesitant – in general I simply do not order beef – it is both a texture thing and a taste thing since it always seems to taste “beefy.”Having mentioned this to Carlo when discussing preferences via E-mail he assured me that this would be different – that this cow (which he knew the arrival date of nearly a month in advance) was worth it.He was right.
Presented first in its raw state at the beginning of the meal, then whole-cooked, and finally plated, the 80-Day Dry Aged Wagyu with Fingerling Potatoes, Sweetbreads, and Ramps was nothing short of a revelation.Ignoring the potatoes, sweetbreads, and ramps – all things I love and all prepared exquisitely – the Wagyu itself was hardly “beefy,” the flavor instead somewhere between butter, mushrooms, and nuts while the texture was literally melt-in-the-mouth – the sort of meat that could be cut as easily with the edge of a fork as with a knife, and a portion so generous that my dining partners took a good 6 ounces home.In a word, it was perfect – the sort of dish I will remember for a long time to come not only because it was delicious, but because it challenged and changed a long held belief.
Accompanying with the steak and not to be forgotten we were additionally served a large plate of fat brushed bone marrow, parmesan, and toasted country bread – another item I’d have not ordered for myself yet another sensational preparation of which I ate the nearly the entire plate.
With my friends now getting full perhaps it was foolhardy to opt for a pizza in place of the cheese course, but I guess I never claimed to be rational when it comes to great food.Served hot, charred and bubbly from the pizza oven up front our Neapolitan style pie would be an off-menu compellation of Ramps, Ricotta, Mozzarella, Lemon, and Pine Nuts – a lovely amalgam of flavors with an elastic spring to the crust and excellent balance.Having taken a trek through what many consider to be Brooklyn’s best Pizza only three days prior I can say that Roberta’s isn’t quite Lucali or Paulie Gee good, but I preferred it to the slice at DiFara and Motorinio.
Finishing half the pie on my own it was at this point that I started to feel *gasp* full – but certainly not too stuffed for dessert.For course 15 our palate cleanser would arrive as Grapefruit Sorbetto with Olive Oil – a clean, bitter/sweet, and smooth scoop that tasted the very essence of the fruit – a significant accomplishment since I generally find most sorbet overly sweet.
With palates cleansed our final flavor of the evening would be a slightly deconstructed version of one of the house desserts – Kumquat Gelato with Cream Soda, Candied Olive, and Blood Orange Cream.Typically served as a parfait but sized down according to Carlo because he thought we were getting full the gelato was again a perfect representation of its namesake fruit while the thin crisp of cream soda candy, candied olives, and sour blood orange cream lent plenty of nuance and textural variation with the overall flavor something like a mature creamsicle.
With an epic meal behind us and a full service coffee bar up front our last taste of the night was coffee; a bold pour over cup of Finca Juanita for me and an Espresso for my friend.Sitting and sipping our coffee while chatting with our server and later with Carlo I was perhaps at my happiest – full of great food and drinking coffee with friends while listening to Led Zeppelin in the presence of a gracious host – a moment, much like the meal, that I won’t soon forget.With the bill settled – a veritable bargain at $160 per person – and Carlo walking us to the door it was a quick trip via Subway back to Manhattan with much chatter about the wonderful experience just passed – an experience I can’t wait to revisit on my next trip to New York and an experience I would suggest anyone who values great food and great people check out for themselves before the “secret” that is Carlo Mirarchi and Roberta’s is out and reservations become unattainable.
When you don’t frequent Steakhouse and don’t eat steak in general because you find it rather boring and monotonous it makes it rather difficult to judge a Steakhouse – even if it is nearly 125 years old and perhaps the most famous Steakhouse in the world. Sure I cannot say that Peter Luger would have been my first choice for lunch during any trip to New York City, but on this particular visit a confluence of factors not only made it very convenient, but the fact that my friend Matt had always wanted to eat there but never had the chance also made it a great opportunity to have a Michelin Starred meal with a friend who generally shies away from the world of fine dining.
With a legend over a century old I must admit that my visit to Luger’s was something I actually looked forward to if not for the steak then simply for the experience.How, I wondered, could a Brooklyn Steakhouse hold a 25+ year reign as “Best Steak in New York” when the city’s dining climate has always been so transient?How could a cash only $60+ per person place with rumored surly service and warnings to take a cab rather than risk a walk from the subway require advanced reservations even at lunch?Was it really that good – and if it was, could it be the place to change my mind about Steakhouses and beef in general?
With reservations made months in advance and Matt driving in from New Hyde Park (and ironically forgetting his wallet) my first challenge to the rumors I’d heard was the J-Train and a nice trip across the Williamsburg Bridge followed by a quarter mile walk through a rough yet well-kept neighborhood to the front door of the famous restaurant; not only did I not get mugged or harassed but the people I crossed paths with en route were rather pleasant.Making my way past the parking lot up to the front door I was next greeted by a man in a brown Peter Luger coat who held the door as I made my way in to the bar where my friend was waiting.
With greetings exchanged and Matt informing me of his forgotten wallet I quickly realized that I likely did not have enough cash for the both of us but informed by the somewhat gruff bartender that the restaurant does indeed take debit I was relieved and handing the bartender $3 for the 8oz Diet Coke Matt had been enjoying we made our way through the bar to past a number of suited men to one of the three heavily wooded main dining rooms where we were greeted by our server, a pleasant older fellow named Bernard who told us he’d been working at Peter Luger since “before you was born,” who filled our waters and handed us our menus.
With Matt waxing between the Rib Steak and the Luger Burger and myself having already decided before we arrived on the Lamb Chops it wouldn’t take long before orders were placed and with service professional and even occasionally chatty throughout the meal a warm basket of bread appeared within moments along with thick cubes of butter, Peter Luger Steak sauce, and another $3 Diet Coke for Matt.With the room approximately half full and seemingly unchanged since inception in its decoration Matt and I both dug into the bread basket and to my surprise the offerings were actually quite diverse and tasty with white bread, Garlic Onion rolls, and warm Parker House rolls all golden and warm.With the butter largely forgettable it should also be mentioned that it really doesn’t matter largely because this gives you an excuse at this point to try the sauce – somewhere between barbeque and cocktail and Worcestershire – and to keep trying it until the plates arrive.
With the main courses being cooked “however the Chef prefers” on my request, the next item to arrive at the table was Luger’s Sizzling Bacon “Extra Thick by the Slice.” With a single order delivering two charred slices of crispy pig to our table my first thoughts on arrival were “when they say thick they mean thick” and on taking my first bite those thoughts quickly changed to “damn, this is the best bacon I’ve ever had” as the tender interior edge juxtaposed with the smoky crisp edges to form a taste quite unlike traditional pan fried bacon, but more like pork belly with a bit more texture.
With the bacon devoured and its drippings sopped up with the start of a second basket of bread our main courses would arrive perhaps 35 minutes after seating and with mine plated tableside with sizzling butter from the pan spooned over the first of two butterflied chops (I only ordered the single) it was with little hesitation that I cut into the rosy flesh and took a bite instantly realizing the Luger sauce would be unnecessary as the medium cooked protein had plenty of flavor to go around.With a nearly caramelized exterior and supple core what surprised me most about the dish was how the butter actually managed to enhance some of the animal’s grassy tones while the exterior char was simple, savory, and delicious.
With the lamb consuming my attention I suddenly remembered I was eating with someone and looked up to find Matt essentially eating with his eyes closed and smiling – while the burger may have been good I’m rather certain he didn’t regret his choice.Generally one not to eat beef I decided “when in Rome” in this case and to be completely honest the beef was an eye opener – served on the bone, a medium pink center, and the perfect balance of protein vs. fat marbling to render the meat juicy without being fatty.My first experience in nearly 3 years with dry aged beef it would interestingly not be my last of the day and while Chef Mirarchi’s 80 day dry aged Wagyu at Roberta’s that evening would entirely reinvent the cow to my palate, I can honestly say that if I were to return to Luger’s I would definitely consider ordering a steak next time.
With scalding hot (and really Folger-esque) coffee served and knowing that I was in for a big meal that evening and while Matt had ordered a substantial steak plus crispy onion straws it was with some debate that we contemplated desserts when Bernard returned to the table, but after agreeing to at least look at the options we decided to go for it and with a “that’s the spirit” from our server we sat back and chatted as we waited.
Told that the desserts were all “made that morning in house” it would not be long before they would arrive – large and bold as expected – along with a bowl of “Schlag” – essentially hand whipped heavy cream with light sweetness and vanilla tones that you could easily stand a spoon up in.
Beginning first with Matt’s selection, the Apple Strudel I’d have ordered if he had not, I have to say that along with the coffee this was Peter Luger’s only failure of the afternoon because while the apples and cinnamon were good, the limp and chilly pastry dough simply showed the pre-made nature of the dish.Knowing full well that such comparisons are unfair I simply could not help but judge this Strudel against the textbook version served at The Modern just two days prior and – well – lets just say the creamy schlag balanced against the sweet apples was the high point of this dish while the pastry shell floundered.
Moving on to smaller but better, my choice of “traditional” Southern Pecan Pie turned out to be everything I’d hoped as the crisp golden crust supported the buttery brown sugar filling with ease while the sugar roasted Pecans were supple and plump with a great nutty flavor that mellowed the filling without muting it – of course a little schlag didn’t hurt here, either.
With plates cleared save for some of the strudel pastry and half the schlag Bernard returned again and asking us if there was anything else we’d like presented the bill and a pile of chocolate gold coins – a formidable $115 after tax and invited us to either pay him or pay at the booth on the way out.Electing for the booth as I had to pay with debit I’ll say here that while Bernard was pleasant the woman at the booth most certainly was not and without mustering a smile she thanked us for coming in and we were on our way – Matt happy to have finally eaten at the fabled Steakhouse and myself glad to have been there with him because whether a steak fan or not Peter Luger truly is the sort of place you need to experience for yourself; and all the better if you want a nice slab of beef.
There is a part of my food ramblings that will unfortunately remain lost in the void – a handful of meals from a work-related trip to New York that are annotated and photographed but of which my memory has faded over the course of 5 months of work and trips to Paris, Boston, and Chicago.While it is somewhat unfortunate that these experiences will not be documented with my standard breadth of detail considering all were good and some were great, it is what it is and the most vivid memories still shine through.For the third of these meals, I give you Café Boulud – by far the longest, most complex, and most delicious of the group yet the one during which I took the least notes as I was dining with friends; friends who were admittedly known to both the front of the house and Chef Gavin Kaysen.
Having already acknowledged my shortcomings in annotation I will first note that what I can and do recall of the meal was first the setting – with an early reservation made by Roz and Michael and my arrival preceding theirs by a good twenty minutes the front of the house could not have been nicer in offering me a seat at the bar or instead a seat at the table, the later which I accepted, and providing me not only a copy of Food & Wine to read while I waited but also a complimentary artisan Planter’s Punch with notes of pineapple, cinnamon, and nutmeg – a punch that may have been “one too many” when added to Boulud’s signature house Champagne also provided on the house when my companions arrived.
With the restaurant located in the former Daniel space at The Surrey amongst the museums and million dollar apartments of the Upper East Side the dining room has a distinctive feel from that of Daniel – smaller and a bit less formal, classy without being opulent, and with both seating and service more befitting an upscale café than a glamorous five star meal – yet at the same time a number of similarities including the splashy art, well-heeled clientele, circular lighting fixtures, and of course the world class cuisine which instead of simply utilizing techniques from around the world instead opts to literally divide the menu by technique and location into 5 sections; Daily Market, Classic, International, Seasonal, and Vegetable.
With Chef Kaysen greeting us tableside as we sipped our champagne I figured deferring to my friends would be the better part of valor and much like their previous visit to the restaurant they opted to place our night in the hands of the Chef with a couple of specific requests to which Gavin was happy to oblige.A humble man who seemed to politely quash all comments about his talents instead preferring to discuss his children, wife, and opportunity to meet with Paul Bocuse who was in town along with many other chefs to honor Thomas Keller at Per Se there was something immensely likable about Chef Kaysen almost immediately and I quickly understood Roz and Michael’s fondness for the restaurant – and all this before a single bite even touched the table.
With Gavin now returning to the kitchen and the restaurant filling to perhaps 3/4 capacity our server stopped by briefly to discuss beverages with our trio and with one opting for wine pairings while I’d already had more than my limit things were underway with a trio of amuses (note, no menu was ever presented until we requested one as a keepsake at the end of the evening) including a Blue Point Oyster with Lemon and red onion, Octopus Carpaccio with Olive, Romesco and Watercress, and finally a Rice Croquette with aged cheese and breadcrumbs – all tasty, each presenting a different texture and diverse flavor profile to open the palate for things to come.
With amuses finished the next man to arrive tableside was the bread man – a dangerous fellow indeed given the diversity and quality of his wares, each still warm from the oven and paired with the same smooth and salty cow’s milk butter served at Chef Boulud’s flagship.Never one to skimp on the carbs I can say without a doubt that Café Boulud ranks alongside Bouley as the best bread services I’ve experienced in the Big Apple and their servers rank amongst the most generous the young man kept my plate filled with Pumpkin seed sesame, Olive wheat, raisin walnut, French baguette, and sourdough throughout the evening.
Moving on to our first course I’ll once again state here that my memories are fuzzy, especially as each diner was served a different plate for each of the first four courses plus dessert, but what I can remember is that all but one dish was impressive while many bordered on outstanding and a few crossed the threshold to perfection.Beginning with the first course then, the ‘salad’ course if you will, the three plates were as follows: #1) Maine Lobster Salad – Sugar Snap Peas, Preserved Lemon, Pearl Onions plus lobster fritter and cilantro mayo,#2) Ahi Tuna Niçoise – Haricot Vert, Romaine Lettuce, Quail Egg, #3) Adobo Marinated Scallops – Pineapple, Red Onion, Jalapeno, Scallions – and with a much plate passing involved we were each able to taste all three with only the scallops falling short as the heat of the pepper and adobo spices simply overwhelmed the mollusk leaving behind while the other two showed great balance, particularly the sweet lobster salad.
Moving next (after more bread, I’m sure) to the “soup” course would be the moment I first realized what Chef Kaysen was capable of as three different plates arrived, each referencing a different style, place, and part of the menu; and each absolutely superb.First sourcing the International theme of Mexican, then French Tradition, and finally the Daily Market plates #1) Traditional Pozole Soup – White Hominy, Pork Shoulder, Guajillo, #2 Asperges Blanches Gratinée – Hen Egg, Sauce Béarnaise, Frisée, #3) Warm Pea Soup with onion ravioli, pea tendrils, olive oil showed a skill set not often seen in a restaurant with each of the varying styles showing great poise and using savory to balance sweet, vegetal to tame heavy, and unique textures such as the partially crisped hen egg or toothsome hominy to throw a curveball into the otherwise creamy presentations.
Moving on to the pasta course I’ll note that one of my dining partners made a special request based on a meal at Café Boulud during which famed blogger theulteriorepicure enjoyed his “best dish” of 2010 and without hesitation Gavin was glad to send out #1) Spaghetti Nero – Bouchot Mussels, Prawns, Baby Squid, Fra Diavolo along with #2) Housemade Cavatelli – Braised Pork Ragoût, Roasted Eggplant, Shaved Pecorino and #3) Spring Green Risotto – Crispy Frog Legs, Watercress, Ramps.Obviously paying close attention to the spaghetti given the praise I have to admit it was an outstanding dish with the varying textures of the seafood all sharing the spotlight with flawless al dente pasta and the perfect amount of semi-sweet sauce clinging to each morsel.Not to be outdone, the thick Cavatelli were nearly gnocchi-esque in their density but with the hollow interior more than capable of soaking up plenty of the smoky ragout and smooth eggplant while the risotto was nicely prepared and eerily similar in both texture and flavor to that at Rouge Tomate earlier that afternoon, but this time with a crispy frog leg providing the textural component and it’s characteristic saline tones.
For the fish course we would once again see the Classic, Market, and Mexican presentation with the classic actually a dish harkening back to the days when Daniel inhabited the space.With the dishes presented as #1) Striped Bass en Paupiette – Pomme Purée, Baby Leeks, Sauce Meurette, #2) Slow Baked Branzino – Carrot Ginger Purée, Shitake Mushrooms, Scallions, Miso Emulsion, and #3) Chili Spiced Monkfish – Black Beans, Cilantro, Chimichurri, Housemade Tamale this trio once again showed Kaysen’s deft hand with globe-trotting flavor profiles and while the classic Bass was quite impressive with the crisp potato skin and flaky fish nicely complimented by the rings of sauces and purees it was actually my least favorite of the trio largely because one featured my favorite fish, Branzino, paired with a beautiful assortment of Asian inspired flavors that brought out many of the fish’s sweeter tones while the other did something I’d have never expected with Monkfish and made it spicy without losing a bit of it’s buttery undertones while also delivering a Tamale with sweet corn and pork that was as good as any ever to grace my palate.
For our final savory of the evening the courses would finally converge (on our request) with the lone item served being the Roasted Duck Breast with Venere Rice, Spring Radishes, Red Beets, and Natural Jus, a competent version of the fowl to be sure but overwhelmed in “wow” factor by the toothsome and fragrant black rice whose nutty undertones balanced perfectly with the spicy radishes and tender beets.
Asked next if we should like to enjoy some cheese before desserts the answer was “of course,” and given the 9:00pm hour the lights went down as the board arrived.With five cheeses served, 2 cow, 2 goat, and one sheep per my recollection I’ll admit that without my notes here I’m at a loss for names, but I do recall the blue to be excellent, particularly with the toasted cranberry pecan toast and accoutrements including poached cherries, honey brittle, and salad with a light vinaigrette.
With cheese blocks cleared and my companions getting full three desserts would arrive and having seen one that particularly interested me on the online menu my inquiry led to a fourth on the house.Again traversing the globe the plates arriving included #1) Rum Glazed Bananas – Milk Chocolate Crémeux, Smoked Cinnamon Anglaise, Hibiscus Sorbet, #2) Basil Poached Mango – Coconut Mousse, Passion Curd, Pina Colada Sorbet, Basil Caviar, #3) Dark Chocolate Mousse with Pistachio Cremeux, Chocolate Sable, Pistachio Ice Cream, and by request #4) Baba au Rhum – Poached Pineapple, Macadamia Brittle, Vanilla Ice Cream – each larger than expected – and all but the mango right up my alley with ornate presentations and delicious complex flavors abound, particularly the wheel of caramelized boozy bananas atop creamy chocolate and the dense baba finished tableside with aged rum carrying a crunchy tropical shell atop its rounded base.
With desserts being enjoyed slowly coffee and warm Madelines would arrive next from the kitchen and just like Daniel the fluffy lemon kissed cookies were textbook while deep rich notes of La Colombe led to at least three refills before the night was over.
With Gavin again stopping by to see how we’d enjoyed everything and praises flowing from our lips the last bites to arrive were in the form of seven mignardises; a true embarrassment of riches with a Vanilla Macaron, Chocolate covered pistachio marshmallow, tangerine pate a fruit, lemon meringue, cannelle, caramel tarte, and pineapple financier all quite good – particularly the caramel almond tarte which roused memories of pecan pie and the Vanilla Macaron every bit as good as those at La Maison du Chocolat.
With a great meal now behind us and Gavin again thanking us and signing copies of the night’s menu before returning to the kitchen we sat as a group for a while chatting before making our way to the door where coats were collected and thanks were provided both ways for such a lovely evening – an evening that nearly 5 months later still resonates with me and makes me wonder just what Michelin is thinking by giving Kaysen only one star when the food – supposedly the only thing that Michelin judges when awarding stars – is every bit as good as Boulud’s Three-Star flagship.
There is a part of my food ramblings that will unfortunately remain lost in the void – a handful of meals from a work-related trip to New York that are annotated and photographed but of which my memory has faded over the course of 5 months of work and trips to Paris, Boston, and Chicago.While it is somewhat unfortunate that these experiences will not be documented with my standard breadth of detail considering all were good and some were great, it is what it is and the most vivid memories still shine through.For the second of these meals, I give you Rouge Tomate – a place some had warned me would underwhelm compared to other heavyweights on my dining schedule, but a space I couldn’t overlook due to my beliefs about healthy eating (okay, not while on vacation, but the other 330 days of the year,) a business lunch prix fixe that just so happened to contain some of my favorite things, plus their philosophy stating: “Our seasonally inspired culinary offerings rely heavily on locally sourced ingredients and are prepared in consultation with our culinary nutritionist Natalia Hancock.”With reservations made I even contacted the restaurant in advance to ask if one of the dinner items could be made available at lunch – a request they granted without question.
Arriving at the surprisingly expansive restaurant on time for my reservation and making my way through the red curtain I was met at the hostess stand by a male and female who seemed to ignore my existence for a moment before looking up with a “can I help you?”With my name and reservation stated the demeanor quickly changed, however, and I was subsequently led to a two top at the very front of the restaurant; a seat overlooking the large decorated windows, a basement type area, and the entirety of the restaurant.With the room approximately half-empty, particularly in my section save for a group of six and a couple tables of business sorts it would be a short while before my server Caitlin – one of only two waitresses working the room from what I was able to see – would arrive tableside with water, a list of house-blended juices (outrageously priced, fyi,) and both the lunch prix fixe and standard lunch menu.A pleasant girl though not the most attentive I’d often find my water empty, but overall service as I recall it was about what I’d expect for such a restaurant.
With a quick browse of the prix fixe and bearing in mind that I had a conference to get back to Caitlin returned rather quickly after her original visit and confirming my dinner supplemental request I placed my order for the prix fixe, the supplement, and an extra dessert that looked too good to pass up – a five course meal with plates arriving approximately every 10-15 minutes providing for a nice pace.
With orders placed the first item to arrive at my table would be the house-made bread selection for the day and paired with Cilantro Olive Oil both the Sourdough and Sesame Poppy seed Bread were nice and toothsome and although the sourdough could have stood a bit more ‘sour’ it really did match up quite pleasantly with the fragrant and smooth oil.
Munching on the bread it would not be long before my first course arrived and as a matter of fact, I was told that knowing my request the chef had already started working on it before my arrival.With the dry plate served first and springing to life as a clean and clear Consommé was added tableside, “Chicken and Dumplings” featuring house-made gnocchi, Amish chicken sausage, Foie Gras, and Honshimeji mushroom looked and smelled fantastic – like chicken noodle soup all grown up and in a portion befitting a main course moreso than an appetizer…but unfortunately the mushrooms and vegetables fell flat while the five gnocchi were more dense noodle than buoyant dumpling.Largely disappointed by those aspects I will say that the spicy chicken sausage was quite good and small terrine of foie gras melting at the plate’s center added a great flavor to the broth.
Moving next to the prix fixe, my first course was a decision between bean soup and an egg dish; a ‘choice’ in name only for anyone who knows me and my love of all things featuring an egg.Another large portion and this time served loaded with both aroma and flavor provoking thoughts of an herb garden, Fresh Herb Risotto with Feather Ridge Farm Egg, Fennel, Parmesan, and Crispy Garlic was everything I’d hoped for with the risotto just slightly toothsome and texturally marvelous balancing with the creamy egg with notes of both the garlic and cheese poking though with each bite.Tinged with a little bit of mint this was the sort of natural cuisine I’d hoped Rouge Tomate would deliver when I made my reservation in the first place.
For the second/main course of the Prix Fixe another of my favorite items was offered and once again the portion and preparation were more than I’d have ever expected for a “business lunch.”Titled Long Island Duck with Red Cabbage, Crispy confit, Root Vegetables, Shallot-Pork Puree, and Thyme Juice this plate would prove the superstar of the dinner with a 6-7oz of grapefruit red duck with crispy golden skin atop a pile of smoky cooked red cabbage and topped with nicely prepared turnips, sweet potatoes, and rutabaga.With the breast delicious and the jus pairing nicely, the additional surprise of a crispy cube of confit paired with the savory puree of swine formed a flavor entirely unique – a bit funky, a bit smoky, and a nice textural balance to the rest of the plate.
With one dessert included and the other ordered off the lunch ALC menu Caitlin asked if I wanted them both at the same time or coursed out and suggesting I had time for separate dishes the first to arrive was that from the fixe in the form of Early Spring Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese, Walnut, Vanilla Milk Sherbet; the better of the two by far.Beginning first with the carrot cake – a nice rendition made with both carrot and rhubarb served in a small teardrop shape with a base full of spice and lovely cream cheese frosting in ideal proportion without being overly sweet.With the milk sherbet decent but unmemorable, the other aspect of this plate that wowed was the unannounced pile of vegetables and orange puree – identical in flavor and spice to the cake and consisting of golden raisins, poached carrots and rhubarb, plus plenty of cinnamon and sweetness.
Having not expected to order a second dessert my inability to pass on my favorite style of dessert led to an order of the Seasonal Warm Bread Pudding with Fuji Apple, Chestnut, Oat Streusel, and Parsnip Ice Cream – a decent enough example, but nothing really to write home about given the $11 price tag for what was actually a rather small portion of the nicely caramelized but largely unsweetened pudding.More impressive than the bread pudding, the apple/cherry amalgam was actually quite good while the Parsnip Ice Cream was actually quite tremendous with a surprisingly smooth texture and savory tones that truly did taste earthy yet pleasantly sweet.
With the plates now cleared and my time running low given the trek back to the Hilton I declined coffee, though Rouge Tomate’s offering of a number of ethically sourced artisan blends certainly trumped the free stuff back at the conference and paying the bill – just shy of $70 with tax and tip – I thanked the team for a nice meal that although certainly not the best in New York (and potentially a bit overrated by Michelin) certainly fit their promised vision, particularly with regard to the prix fixe.
As has been the case with myriad previous visits to Manhattan, breakfasts and snacks throughout the journey once again saw me visit a number of bakeries and sweet shops along the way – sometimes out of necessity to get to the meeting on time and sometimes out of gluttony because something simply sounded delicious and there was room in my supposedly limitless stomach.With the conference taking up substantial time during this trip and my meals otherwise largely scheduled to fill in breaks in the conference my ancillary eats would be limited to five stops on this particular trip to Gotham – the requisite visit to Bouchon being the first.
With my fondness for Thomas Keller now well documented and the location on the third floor of the Time Warner Center opening at 8:00am on a day when lectures initiated at 8:30 Bouchon would once again prove a perfect breakfast stop and this time all the more so with the further expansion of the Salvador Dali exhibit from my previous visit.Arriving before the doors opened and waiting patiently as a small line formed behind me it was interesting watching the team meeting before opening as the hot items were brought out from the kitchen and arranged nicely on the shelves.
With the doors opened at precisely 8:30am and the line moving swiftly to the door it excited me immediately to see a number of new (or new to me) items on filling the cases and knowing that the conference was to be long that particular day I decided to stock up with a medium coffee along with five choices to go – or at least five choices that had the potential of possibly making it from the Time Warner Center to The Hilton.With service pleasant as always and the bill paid I thanked my server and after sitting down for a moment to look out on to the Streets of New York and take some pictures I made my way to the conference eating as I walked.
Beginning first with the standard order at Bouchon I started my morning with a Caramel Macaron – large and as tasty as ever with flecks of fleur de sel visible on the buttery caramel and the cookie itself the best I’ve ever had at Bouchon thus making a strong argument for early morning visits on all future occasions.
Having promised myself to try the Sugar Brioche this time as I’d heard great things from a friend I was admittedly torn at first when I saw them also selling Hot Cross Buns for the upcoming Easter Holiday but after a momentary debate I decided “both” was the best course of action and with each selection still warm I am most certainly glad I made the choice I did because while the duo was quite similar in their golden exterior giving way to warm and wispy insides the flavors and textures could not have been more different as crunchy crystals of sugar and notes of vanilla lofted from the first while the unmistakable flavors of butter, cinnamon, and currants punctuated the eggy Cross Bun.
Saving the other selections for later my next bites of team Keller’s wares would be a few hours later during a mid-morning break in the conference and picking up where I left off both selections were exacting an delicious, beginning first with a lovely Paris Brest with a crackling choux shell giving way to creamy hazelnut crème that was thick enough to be tasty without being so heavy as to overwhelm the sugar dusted pastry – it was as good as all but one during my subsequent trip to Paris; that version served as dessert in Michelin 3-Star Le Pre-Catelan.
For my final taste of Bouchon I opted to save what was surely the most decadent for last and on biting into “Pain Aux Trois Chocolat” my assumption was confirmed instantly – this was most certainly not a breakfast pastry, but rather the sort of item you eat with milk, coffee, or both while relaxing at a café.Beginning first with chocolate number one – the cocoa powder imbued croissant dough was light, buttery, and crisp.For chocolate number two – a core of dense Valrhona running from end to end and drizzled atop.And finally number three – dark chocolate pastry cream, slightly sweeter than expected acting as the mortar holding together the three separate layers and completing a pastry that may be the best thing I’ve had at any of the three Bouchon Bakeries to date.
Moving from the good to not so good another stop on my trip would be Kyotofu – a visit prompted by their previously being named “New York’s Best Cupcake” by New York Magazine – a distinction I found hard to believe considering they ship these cupcakes all over the country as well as to Dean & Deluca, and a distinction I guess I’ll never be able to judge considering that when I got there they were completely sold of their cupcakes and no longer making more (despite it being only 5pm) due to “a large order for a private function” thus relegating me to two muffins – one a dry and grassy “Matcha Blueberry” and the other a slightly better but rather dull and chewy “Apple Cinnamon” – both of which I can only assume had been baked that morning because to assume otherwise and think they were fresh is…well…unthinkable.
Moving on to bigger and better, a third stop on this trip would bring me to Buttercup Bake Shop, a bakery I’d heard of before as it is well regarded and owned by one of the co-founders of Magnolia but a placed I’d yet to visit largely due to its location on 2nd Avenue – a location that however inconvenient on previous trips became an impromptu destination this time due to a detour based on my hotel location (The Beekman) and the POTUS arrival at the United Nations for a $5000/plate fundraiser dinner.
Making a long story short and saving you the details of me carrying a poster tube down 2nd Avenue as I was approached by Secret Service inquiring as to the nature of my package (a poster, not a sniper rifle as it turned out) I was told it would be about ten minutes before pedestrians would be allowed to progress to the hotel and taking this as a sign I made my way to Buttercup where I was greeted by a trio of young women busy baking, frosting, cooking, and chatting plus the intoxicating smell of butter, vanilla, and…well…butter.With bars, puddings, cookies, and cakes lining each case I was told to “take my time” in choosing and additionally offered a bite of the banana pudding – thick, rich, and delicious with slightly crisp vanilla wafers adding contrast – while I made my decisions; a pair of cupcakes for the road as I still had dinner plans to reckon with and a cup of coffee to wash them down as I waited for the hubbub outside to subside.
At $2.25 and $2.50 respectively my choices would include the standard Red Velvet plus one of my favorites, the Hummingbird – both quite good with sweet and tangy cream cheese icing atop a moist and toothsome cake with the velvet surprisingly not-too-sweet yet dense with cocoa and the hummingbird chockablock full of walnuts, pineapples, and bananas – both first-rate examples and save for the unnecessary red sugar crystals atop the Red Velvet some of the best in the city.
With the conference beginning bright and early for a third consecutive day another breakfast boulangerie targeted for my visit was La Bergamote on 52nd Street and with a long morning run from the UES down to the LES and back plus the trek from my hotel on 2nd all the way to the bakery I was admittedly quite hungry when I arrived – enough so that the already impressive collection of French style pastries looked that much better and the aromatic notes of vanilla, cinnamon, and coffee smelled all the more seductive.With the doors open at 7:00am and my arrival shortly thereafter my entry to the shop was met first by the sights and smells, then by a young woman asking me if I was there for breakfast or just for pastries to go and while I’ll admit the thought crossed my mind to skip the first lecture and try a croque madame I decided to behave and instead order five choices to go – all which were boxed up nicely and placed in a bag while I was offered a sample of the lemon tart and a delicious raspberry thumbprint cookie.
With the bill paid – a bargain compared to the prices at Bouchon Bakery (or especially when compared to prices in Paris) – and taking my order to the street I first stopped for pictures and then decided to eat the more portable items as I walked while saving the others for later at the conference.Beginning first with a recommendation made by my server (and apparently one of the store’s most famous items dating back to the original Chelsea location founded in 199 I started with a warm slice of almond brioche – intensely buttery with a golden exterior and dense eggy crumb coated in caramelized sugar and sliced almonds; it was the kind of thing that made me want to stop in my tracks, turn around, and order a loaf or an order of the French Toast made with that very bread.
Moving next to my French pastry standard and continuing the almond theme La Bergamote’s Almond Croissant would prove to be a good example despite spending a bit too long in the oven as the crisp exterior crackled on my bite giving way to a fragrant interior with wisps of pastry slightly moistened by a layer of frangipane but holding up nicely and loaded with smooth buttery notes.
With my next three options far more messy (and one requiring a spoon) I was glad to see free coffee at the Hilton when I arrived and taking a seat towards the back I surely made the surrounding diabetologists cringe as I moved on to sweeter things beginning first with my second Paris Brest of the trip – a similar version to Keller’s but unfortunately suffering from a bit too much sweetness in the cream and (again) a bit too much time in the oven as the crunchy choux shell was simply lacking any character alongside the dense filling.
Next up on the hit list was a pastry I’d only seen once before and a selection I knew I had to order the moment I entered La Bergamote – La Religeuse – and with options ranging from coffee to vanilla cream to chocolate the only real decision was witch to order…a decision easily made when my server told me the coffee one was her favorite item in the store “if you like coffee.”Served less ornately than most yet with the choux in this case light, crisp, and perfectly baked before being topped with a coffee glaze and filled with caramel tinted coffee cream this dish proved the highlight of the breakfast and more importantly served as the influence to many breakfasts during my subsequent trip to Paris.
With the progression of flavors from mild and buttery to more creamy and dense my last bite of the morning would be by far the most potent and lacking means for cutting it up without making a mess I decided to take the “Baby Baba” in a way befitting its flavor – as a shot – a yeasty, buttery sponge of a shot topped with sweet cream and so loaded with rum that it made me a bit weary to talk with any of my colleagues until I’d drank some more coffee, but a baba so good that it would trump any I’d had at a bakery prior.
Closing out my bakeries and snacks tour of New York was another unplanned stop, but one that I simply couldn’t pass up due to the novelty of there being no line; Shake Shack.For those who don’t know the history of Danny Meyer and USHG suffice it to say the man is a giant and his restaurant group is the brain trust behind Michelin Starred locations like The Modern, Gramercy Tavern, and Eleven Madison plus half a dozen other locations around New York City, but of all of his locations perhaps none seemed as shocking to me as Shake Shack – a stand where always-on-the-run-New-Yorkers will willing wait in line for over an hour for a burger, fries, and a shake…or more appropriately a “concrete,” the object of my desire on this particular day.
With the line non-existent I made my way up to the window where I was greeted by a pleasant young man who asked me what I’d like and having not realized how many choices there were I told him to give me a moment while I stepped back to weigh the options (and my capacity) before electing for the $6 daily special “Hopscotch Concrete” described as containing Vanilla Custard, Salty Caramel, Valrhona Chocolate Chunks, and Chocolate Toffee and after paying the admittedly steep price I stepped to the receiving window where the decadence would appear shortly thereafter.
Making my way to a bench (like the line, empty, confusing me greatly) after grabbing a spoon and preceding to dig in two thoughts came to mind – the first being that if Batali can get away with $6 for a small cup of gelato at Eataly across the street then Mr. Meyer should raise his prices, and the second that I’m very glad most other ice cream parlors opt to make their shakes, blizzards, and flurries with inferior ingredients because if they were all this jammed packed with outstanding ingredients and such a mélange of sweet, salty, smooth, and crunchy my health and waistline would be in jeopardy and seeing now that the chain has expanded significantly I can only hope the quality remains the same and that New Yorkers can show some restraint – or at least spend that extra time they’re saving by not waiting in line walking off the delicious ice cream.
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