Not a vegetarian and certainly not one to go out of my way for “healthy” food when on vacation, the concept of vegan bakeries has nonetheless intrigued me ever since my earliest years in Columbus and bearing in mind the intrinsic limitations of the medium when entering Beet Box Bakery & Cafe it was with noted creativity and pleasant smiles that the morning unfolded, five of six items not just ‘good for vegan food’ but unequivocally great.
Located in a small section of storefronts on East 22nd Avenue, the signage understated and easily missed for those not knowing, Beet Box was demarcated on Monday with a cute clapboard indicating No Donuts vs. Donuts and although some may have been foolish enough to choose the former those opting to enter were rewarded by a wide selection, many of them still warm.
Whimsically decorated with patterned vegetables and letters of the alphabet paired to food it was in allowing three others to go before me that the dual glass cases were perused and although perhaps a bit pricey the $24 tab for three donuts, two pastries and a small cake seemed a fine investment when figuring in tax and tip.
Taking a booth in the side room where benign music played over a single speaker leading to office space it was with goods laid out that a logical progression of flavors was determined, the bear claw admittedly causing an early bit of trepidation given the dearth of flavor on the inside, the lack of butter additionally making for a crisp shell but minimal separation of layers.
Moving onward to Donuts, the base of each distinctly different though all featured a moist, cake-like mouthfeel, tasting began with robust vanilla notes pervading the palate and moving on to apple-cinnamon before a decadent chocolate ring the waft of spices was both autumnal and beautiful, a very good sign of things to come.
Acknowledging a lengthy day of eating ahead, the long morning’s run and rush hour traffic admittedly priming the appetite by the time I’d arrived, it was with half of each donut placed back in the bag and remaining bear claw discarded that heftier options were inspected, the layers of carrot cake literally half vegetable with a generous amount of raisins and walnuts beneath mildly sweet icing, the Turtle Brownie trending far more typical with an intense fudge base beneath candied nuts and sticky-sweet vegan caramel.
Considered by some to be Denver’s Best Restaurant, Chef Alex Seidel a two-time Beard award nominee now pulling triple duty with Mercantile Dining and Provisions at Union Station plus his Sheep Farm and Creamery, Fruition was booked for 7:00pm on Sunday night and entering approximately a half-hour early it was almost as if the staff had been expecting me, the table already set and the only open one in the building.
Low lit and rustic, the L-Shaped space with a larger dining room behind the hostess stand while the narrower area where I was sat approached the cusp of the kitchen, Fruition was launched in the mid-2000’s with a focus on contemporary American cooking and evolving since to embrace farm-to-table as well as organic concepts while developing several signatures, plus a seasonal assortment of appetizers and entrees, recent reports indicate the restaurant to be as good as ever, Seidel’s own cheeses even starting to make an appearance.
Already well-sated from a long day of dining while seeing Denver’s sights it was with water in hand and wine declined that a menu minimally changed from that online was presented, and opting against sizable entrees including pork, duck and lamb to focus on small plates a four-course order was optioned for, an elderly gentleman with a ponytail providing exquisite service throughout the evening.
Oddly choosing to outsource bread to a group in Golden when retrospectively considering the quality of baking at Mercantile, the herb-butter a creamy concoction that I could have easily overindulged in were I not mindful, course one arrived after a small delay due to a sizable group celebrating up front and although I am generally weary of ordering Oysters the makeshift Rockefeller-stack with Leeks, Pork and sauteed Spinach presented a game of Jenga in which there was no loser, each crisply wrapped bite breaking into a briny center that found expected harmony in it’s plate mates.
Debating plate two for a while, several appetizers sounding delicious while mains also beckoned, the server eventually convinced me to trust my gut and go with Seidel’s seasonal Sweetbreads with a tangle of housemade Tagliatelle, the earth of Celery Root tamed through pickling while flaky individual Brussels Sprout Leaves danced atop unctuous Bone Marrow crema.
Acknowledging that another plate of pasta would be pushing limits, but at the same time not willing to forgo Fruitions most celebrated plate, it was after a lengthy delay spent reading a nearby cookbook that the Pasta Carbonara emerged from the kitchen, al dente noodles absolutely perfect surrounding a fatty nugget of House-cured Pork Belly plus a sous vide Egg, lightly saline broth and Black Pepper cracked tableside.
Having spent the better part of two hours watching various items land on tables around me it was without doubt that at least two desserts would find their way to me by meal’s end and although another duo also sounded excellent it was with some restraint that the original plan was adhered to, the Devil’s Food Cake a moist slice of sizable proportions elegantly decorated by Popcorn ice cream and the flavors of malt and vanilla with caramel corn adding whimsy while Butterscotch Pudding took no shortcuts to best any other in the city, fried bits of donuts and candied almonds adding texture while aromatic Eggnog ice cream prevented the low bowl from trending too sweet.
Pear-Vanilla Bread Pudding with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Recently named a regional Beard Award Semi-finalist despite the sort of noisy wall-to-wall space that voters and folks born before 1990 seem to despise, Dana Rodriguez’s Work & Class seemed a perfect fit for early Sunday dinner, the RiNo hotspot absolutely packed with only one Chef’s Counter spot open despite arriving mere fifteen minutes after service began.
Opened early 2015, the Mexico native coming to Denver by way of Southern California nearly twenty years ago, Rodriguez’s story is one of hard work yielding great rewards in a career that moved from dishes to short-order to a prominent place in the group behind Rioja, the jump to her own restaurant within a converted shipping container speaking to the sort of determinaion that now allows her creative control of a menu that changes frequently, though comfort food with a Latin twist always remains the goal.
Buzzing from the hostess stand all the way to an enclosed patio, the kitchen one of the most rapid-fire I’ve ever had the opportunity to watch as Dana herself works the line intermittently alongside two Hispanic men and one Caucasian lady, Work & Class Sundays feature Fried Chicken in addition to the braised meats, sides, breads and salads but trying best to sample a wide variety without overloading a four-course progression was selected, three quarter-pounds of protein paired to housemade bread plus one side and a duo of desserts.
Obviously preparing some elements in advance, the convection oven used to heat breads and the chicken while a grill and stove were used for made-to-order or braised fare, a small amuse of panisse kissed by pepper jam proved an amicable greeting and soon served a bowl of goat stew with vinegary broth made for sipping suffice it to say that the housemade masa is an inspired pairing, each bite entirely appealing on its lonesome but all the moreso when folded into a toothsome taco as the lean meat found a new level of richness atop the lightly melted cheese.
Deferring to the server for round two, both the roasted chicken and pork considered but the Whiskey and Coke Brisket suggested instead, those fancying fattier cuts of beef would be well advised to consider this preparation even though the flavor of the meat gets a little lost in the marinade, each bite featuring melt-in-the-mouth texture while the accompanying cornbread is slightly dry yet toothsome and not particularly hot.
Served a creamy side of risotto that unfortunately fell a bit flat in terms of earthy tones and spooning it slowly as the final savory round was prepared, I knew from the start that Chef Rodriguez’s signature lamb was a destination dish before even entering the restaurant and although expectations were high they were nonetheless exceeded each bite of pink flesh nicely accented by the coriander without ever compromising the animal’s characteristic funk.
Underwhelmed by the biscuit, a decent showing but unfortunately masking the cheddar with too much a vegetal tone, it was after a somewhat lengthy delay that the server returned to drop the check off but suggesting to him that I’d like to order dessert I was met with no resistance, a thimble of Butterscotch Pudding with whipped cream and almond brittle tasty but not showstopping with plenty of room leftover for steamy Bread Pudding speckled with pears and a scoop of Vanilla Bean ice cream slowly melting on top.
French Toast – Cornbread, Mixed Berry Mint Jam, Candied Pecans, Vanilla Ice Cream, Candied Bacon
Open for just over four months, the corner spot at East Alameda Avenue and South Pennsylvania Street recently taken over by Chris Sargent of Brazen Restaurant in Berkeley, Telegraph Neighborhood Bistro & Bar had been generating a lot of buzz amongst locals and selected for brunch with two Vegetarian friends the meal could not have been better executed, the upscale American cuisine every bit as delicious as it was creative and well priced.
Featuring a talented kitchen with staff having honed their skills at local legends like Linger and Rioja, Telegraph offers several menus that vary from brunch to lunch to dinner and arriving just after 11am to find the two-room space largely empty it was with questions answered and accommodations made that five items were coursed out casually, coffee refills continuous while share plates were refreshed frequently.
Happy to see old friends, the waiter never once interrupting conversation despite the fact that ordering took time with the meal eventually stretching nearly two-hours, round one featured a daily special of two lightly fried donuts that avoided the trappings of overwhelming sweetness through a combination of peanut butter and cocoa nibs, the follow-up plate of waffles an absolute steal at just $6 with the candied butternut squash and seeds offering a pleasant back-and-forth with the semi-savory waffle and other toppings that trended expectedly sweet.
Next putting all the crisp and juicy chicken on one side of an elongated pizza topped in pickled onions, chopped fruit, and chervil with a smear of apple butter juxtaposing sharp cheddar beneath a crowning egg, suffice it to say that the omnivorous are benefited greatly in the case of a dish where the balance of sweet and savory is assuredly part of the equation and although my friends not quite as impressed by the flatbread as I was the both beamed about the accommodations made as the kitchen worked feverishly to keep up with a now-packed room.
Going to notable lengths to offer even the housemade marshmallow on only half of the waffle, the vegetarian-friendly mixed greens arrived after a short wait and with conversation still flowing the subtle Asian notes imparted were a fascinating use of Green Goddess with pickled berries and crumbled cornbread, the golden loaves finding even more utility when featured as the custard infused base to Telegraph’s French Toast, the modified plating seeing three slices topped individually with mixed berry jam, sugar crusted pralines and vanilla ice cream with candied bacon on the side.
Truly a memorable brunch, our middle-aged male server clever and quick to make jokes while food runners were equally amusing even as we poked fun at a small misquote when delivering the donuts, Telegraph stands out as a true “Neighborhood” spot with high aspirations and serious kitchen credentials, a rarity in the day of dogmatic menus where Chefs dictate “no modifications or substitutions” as though ego, rather than customer satisfaction, is the name of the game.
Located within a small shopping complex, parking tucked away in back, Sugar Bakeshop figured into Sunday morning plans before meeting friends for brunch later, the cutesy décor and freshly baked goods offering plenty of impetus to stick around listening to Silversun Pickups while perusing E-mail via free WiFi.
Owned and operated by a baking team that hardly seems old enough to drink, three young ladies working the register, boxing up items and mixing dough, respectively, it was with three parties already present that the cafe was entered and with guys from the local fire department sitting and enjoying breakfast burritos as others sipped a six-part order was constructed, a “some for now, some for later” plan eventually giving way to tasting everything in-house with only a few halves or quarters making way to the car.
Not fooling for French or European, the goods offered clearly sourced straight from American Classics, tasting began with a lightly warmed Muffin seemingly made of at least 25% peanut butter with a substantial studding of chocolate chips, the lightly melting pockets of cocoa adding as much to the creamy texture as they did to the rich flavor.
No less rich, and perhaps even moreso, bites taken of the red velvet brownie quickly followed the muffin and with cream cheese adding a tangy topnote the cupcake unfortunately took a far more bold approach by offering only a light drizzle of salty Caramel and crushed Pretzels, the dark ganache and moist cake perhaps better suited to those also enjoying a glass of milk…or at least a cup of coffee.
Rounding out the tasting with three cookies, two fresh from the oven while the nutter-butter solved Devil’s Food’s conundrum of dryness by adding a creamy layer between two buttery biscuits, those looking for something truly decadent are encouraged to invest in the complex Monster Cookie while chocolate lovers may wish to consider the atypical “Black and White” with a soft-set cocoa cookie besieged in mellow white chocolate chips.
Cherry Pop Tart, Chocolate Chip Cookie, Snickerdoodle, Oatmeal Raisin Cookie, Peanut Butter Cookie
Admittedly setting an aggressive agenda for seven full days in Colorado day two began at soon-to-relocate Devil’s Food, and although service seemed a bit stretched as a result of the Sunday morning rush plus a young man who was a touch too chatty with regulars the food itself set a very high standard for all other breakfasts in the area, only an overly dry peanut butter cookie and “French Toast” style Monte Cristo falling short of “Must Order” designation.
Undoubtedly a place of substantial popularity, elderly couples and hipsters alike lining up for pastries or settling in for a table, it was only after perusing baked goods that change throughout breakfast, lunch and dinner that I opted for a two-top, Coffee from nearby Cultivar offering a refreshingly light roast despite refills that were slower than optimal while an opening round of pastries showed a skilled hand with lamination – the bronzed shell of an almond croissant giving way to arched caverns and light sweetness while the frosted cinnamon roll was rich with butter inside the tight coil.
Going the extra mile to import pure maple syrup from Slopeside, and offering it alongside a single buttermilk pancake studded with kumquats as opposed to a whole stack, the batter used at Devil’s Food yield an extremely puffy product compared to most and although the aforementioned ham and turkey sandwich is not fried like the classic one would be hard pressed to quibble about its quality, the pan-seared bread rich, eggy and easily maintaining its texture even after the addition of housemade jam.
Unable to pass up more pastries on exit, the quickbreads, brownies and muffins all appealing while the signature cakes are not available until later in the day, it was instead in a quartet of cookies plus a roasted cherry ‘pop-tart’ that remaining appetite was invested, the Snickerdoodle and Oatmeal Raisin standing out compared to the others while the fruit pocket more closely resembled a hand-pie than the famous toaster pastry, a good thing by all accounts but in my opinion an undersell of the buttery shell, as well as the fresh filling, based on the naming.
Located on a trendy part of Broadway and considered by some to be the best ice cream in the Greater Denver area, it was just prior to 8:30pm that parking was chanced at a nearby Walgreens and finding almost no line despite almost entirely filled tables the experience at Sweet Action was very much like any other artisan scoop-shop, a smattering of samples served by smiling faces leaving tough decisions to be made.
Small batch and featuring fresh cream from local dairies, the high milk-fat base obvious to anyone familiar with brands like Jeni’s, Salt & Straw or Humphry Slocombe, flavors at Sweet Action stick a little more closely to the standards when compared to the high-wire acts of others but certainly not the sort of place to cut corners when it comes to ingredients the tastes speak volumes about the owner’s artistry, everything from the mild Earl Grey to the richness of Peanut Butter and Jelly all ringing loud and clear.
Admittedly well sated after a 7am flight and four previous stops since landing in Denver earlier that day, it was largely a result of there being so many good options that a total of three scoops were ordered and with a bargain-basement price of just $4.95 for ice cream of such quality the only real issue was the fact that the over-stuffed cup led to too much blending, the texturally interesting Coffee with chopped donuts easily discernible at the base while the salty caramel and honey almond were unfortunately smooshed into a single homogenous taste.
A staple of Denver’s dining scene for nearly twenty years, featuring “farm to table” cuisine before the concept was a ‘trend,’ walk-in only Potager was targeted for dinner during day one in Denver, a 5:30pm arrival scoring my choice of tables while those arriving after seven o’clock were assured a thirty minute wait, or longer.
Owned by Teri Rippeto and her father, the current culinary direction described as a collaboration between herslf, Chefs Chris Bell and Luke Hendricks plus sommelier Natalie Guinovart – who also doubles as a server – Potager occupies a shabby-chic corner lot and with the L-shaped dining room and lounge wrapping around the open kitchen and bar those lucky enough to score a seat are are treated to a continually updated menu while additional daily specials are featured on a chalk-board hung above the pass.
Opting for a table in the lounge, a comfy chair and lamp lighting favored over wood and linen in the proper dining room, it was not long before Ms. Guinovart greeted me and offering the menu without describing specials a four course dinner was decided upon, a demi-portion of gnocchi added gratis when I noted the chalkboard en route to the restroom and informed her that I’d have ordered it in place of the pizza had I been previously informed.
Opting against wine, though suggested pairings were certainly not the typical white-with-fish and red-with-meat sort, it was with a few bites of crusty housemade bread and benign butter that the meal began, and after a short delay thanks to the rapidly filling restaurant the first course was presented in the form of an inverted cheese “souffle” reminiscing the flavors of French Onion Soup, the ever-evolving signature as light as a cloud but rife with flavor sitting in a broth for which the bread seems made to sop.
Having heard good things of the wood-fired pizzas, the sharable appetizer’s seasonal interpretation today topped in housemade sausage plus whipped local cream, mozzarella and a bit of fennel pollen, suffice it to say that although thin, crisp and pleasantly smoky the dish is far too rich for one and opting to take more than half back home it was not long before the aforementioned potato dumplings were presented, each hand-rolled noodle a melt-in-your-mouth experience with earthy musrooms and saline cheese finding a perfect foil in pickled shallots.
Not specifically an Italian restaurant, though my order may seem as such, the final savory arrived just minutes past 6:45 and as much as I loved the presentation of the gnocchi it would be hard to say the Housemade Saffron Noodles were any less exemplary, a confit of Lamb Shoulder joining sundried tomatoes, black olives and an aromatic butter sauce with each bite offering a different melange of flavors that never grew dull.
Impressed enough by savories to assume desserts would offer more of the same, suspicions were confirmed by a menu from which a “one of each” order would have been perfectly justified had the pizza not been so filling, and therefor limiting myself to just two options the theme of balance was once again noteworthy, neither the crisp nor the cake overly sweet despite the combination of fresh fruits and ice cream, the former particularly memorable for the toasty almond topping while the cake was the definition of moist, chock-a-block full of fibrous shredded fruit.
Breakfast of Champz – Hand Cured Bacon atop Pure Maple Syrup and Bacon Infused Glaze
Confuzed Samoa – Caramel Glazed Donut topped with Toasted Coconut and a Rich Chocolate Drizzle
Grilly D – Chipotle Glazed Cake Donut Grilled “to a Perfect Medium Rare”
Puffynutz – Laminated Cinnamon Sugar Donut
PB&J – Peanut Butter Glaze and Raspberry Reduction
Strawberry Brite – Strawberry Frosting with Sprinkles
My Blue Heaven – Freshly Harvested Blueberry Fritter with Key Lime Cream Cheese Glaze
The source for artisan doughnuts since opening in late 2013, long before Voodoo decided to come to town and Habit set up shop, Glazed & Confuzed has garnered its fair share of acclaim both in Denver and on many national lists for options such as the Confuzed Samosa as well as the Grilly D, and making way through the shop doors just after 1:30pm on Saturday to find a fresh batch recently glazed one could not help but over-order, a “baker’s half-dozen” ringing in at just under twenty bucks.
Owned by Josh Schwab, a California native with Cordon Bleu education and fine dining chops, Glazed and Confuzed actually began as a passion project sold at Farmer’s Markets in 2012 and subsequently turning brick and mortar when the combination of colder weather plus customer demand called for it both the creativity and seasonal options have seen incremental expansion, some thirty-plus styles of fried dough now rotating along with a few staples that, for good reason, never change.
Not the sort of place to take shortcuts, the base for each doughnut scratch-made just like the glaze, raised options at Glazed and Confused feature a rich Brioche-style base not dissimilar to Portland-based Blue Star and whether one selects the sprinkled Simpson’s “Strawberry Brite,” PB&J, or “Breakfast of Champz” riff on Voodoo’s signature the flavor profile is surprisingly quite natural, ingredient quality obviously a focus amidst the expected sweet stuff.
Not the sort to pass up a signature, one each of the chipotle-topped grilled doughnut and Girl Scout-inspired coconut ring tasted next, those fancying coconut are likely to be impressed by the toasty top-notes overlying the latter while those looking for something truly unique will be surprised by the restrained heat of the former’s tangy icing, the doughnut itself featuring an exterior crunch not unlike a slice of buttered toast.
Ordering a $5 “Puffynutz,” Chef Schwab’s humorously titled take on a Cronut, those familiar with the Ansel original are likely to be disappointed as this unfilled version is far more crisp with better layering to the lamination, but personally enjoying this version (and the lack of a two-hour line) far more the price still seemed a bit excessive, an exact opposite case presented by the $3 Blueberry Fritter with great crunch overlying pillowy nuggets beneath a thick layer of “heavenly” citrus cream cheese.
Green Chile Goat Cheese Cornbread with Fennel Honey Butter
Bourbon Sticky Bun with Pecans and Crème Anglaise
Monte Cristo Remix with Black Forest Ham, Turkey, Smoked Cherry Moustarda, Gruyere, Sunny Side Egg, Fries, Spiced Syrup, and Chipotle Ketchup
Chicken and Waffles with Lavash Crusted Chicken Thigh, Mashed Potato Waffles, Apple Butter, Bacon Brussels Sprout Slaw, Chili Honey
Crème Brulee French Toast with Challah Bun, Moscato Poached Strawberries, Mascarpone, Basil
Bourbon Smoked Caramels and Butterscotch Pudding with Banana Cream, Bourbon Butterscotch Sauce, Candied Walnuts, Housemade Nilla Wafer
Housed in a multi-level historic brothel with ownership by the brains behind Root Down and Linger, Ophelia’s Electric Soapbox was targeted for brunch on arrival to Denver and amidst a setting quite unlike any other it was no surprise that the restaurant itself is as much about the experience as it is the food, the severely slow coffee refills a small smudge on an otherwise shining meal.
At times a concert venue, otherwise showing everything from kitsch Kung-Fu films to The Superbowl on an enormous screen hanging high above the ground floor, it was at a narrow countertop that I was seated shortly after arrival and finding comfort in the highbacked leather barstools it was not long before a young lady greeted me, menu presented along with a cocktail list provided by Viewmaster.
Following a trend typical to restaurants of its ilk, clever cocktails, mimosas and bloody Marys served alongside improvised takes on classic diner fare, any midday meal at the Electric Soapbox should undoubtedly begin with Coffee from nearby Coda and although refills may be hard to come by as the place gets busy, have no doubt the rich roast is worth the wait, a gentle fruity basenote pairing particularly well with sweeter fare.
Recently updating the seasonal menu, some dinner carryover to lunch but mostly novel with a small-plates sharing focus, brunch was divided into three courses consisting of seven options, the first a trio of lightly spiced cornbread with a creamy goat cheese core alongside a panini-pressed Monte Cristo plus a showstopping Cinnamon Sticky Bun with Bourbon Caramel still bubbling in cast iron as Crème Anglaise was added to mellow the sweetness and cool the pastry enough to eat.
Chatting with the General Manager about the space, the team involved and the Denver dining scene as a whole, it was hot-on-the-heels of round one that part two of the meal would arrive and already impressed by the crispness of hand-cut frites served with the deep-fried sandwich the crunchy coating overlying a pair of juicy chicken thighs was equally appealing, the potato based waffle a forgivingly light when topped with inspired accoutrements while the cast-iron French Toast ate much like a souffle’d bread pudding, the mascarpone and boozy berries absolutely indulgent.
Actually unaware that dessert was available at lunch when originally formulating the order I’d half-debated forgoing a look at the menu for fear of overdoing it so early in the trip, but unable to resist temptation it was perhaps fortuitous that only one of the three offerings seemed to be calling and accompanied by a single smoky caramel, other flavors available at Root Down and Linger, the “Butterscotch Pudding” was served in a jar as an elegant upgrade on the Banana-based Southern Classic, the Candied Walnuts and housemade Nilla Wafer adding texture to the sweet, creamy layers.
Self proclaimed as the first place to popularize cupcakes in Colorado and now offering a range of bars, scones, cookies, and signature flavors near gate C24 at Denver International Airport it was straight to Happy Cakes Cafe that I walked after stepping off an early flight from Las Vegas and although I wish I could say the goods changed my opinion of ‘airport food’ in general the fact of the matter is that the cupcakes are actually quite dreadful while other items fared relatively well.
Obviously not the original location, but just stocked with freshly baked goods that morning according to a clerk, it was after brief perusal that a half-dozen selections were made and taking the bags to a nearby seating area it was almost immediately on unpacking that I knew disappointment awaited, the miniature $3.75 rounds dense, heavy and ice cold.
Beginning with a “scone” that eats more like a muffin than the traditional British variety before transitioning to a lightly salted cookie that featured a crisp rim and soft center the first impressive bites from Happy Cakes Cafe were presented in the form of two bars, the Oreo version a spot-on representation of cookie’s famous flavor while the Cloud 8 saw butterscotch and chocolate chips married to coconut atop a crumbly graham cracker base.
Moving onto the cupcakes, two of the four available selected, suffice it to say that calling either of them “two-bites” would be questionably appropriate as the average adult mouth could undoubtedly handle a whole one at a time, and although the cream cheese frosting was both as sweet and tangy as expected the cakes themselves were dense and not particularly flavorful, the carrot especially noteworthy as it lacked any real spice or bold flavor at all.
Samples: Cap ‘n Crunch, Lychee, Sea Salt, Butter Pecan, Taro, Coconut, Butterscotch Almond
Hokkaido Milk Tea, Taro Macaron, Oreo Macaron
Snickers Chocolate Chip Cookie Sandwich
Located on South Jones and similarly presented as The Perfect Scoop & Boba Tea on Fort Apache it was late Saturday evening that I entered the small homemade ice cream shop where two young Asian men were head-bobbing along to EDM while Anime played on an LCD behind the counter and perusing the cases containing 31 flavors including several Vegan-Friendly one could not help but smile at the creativity, a half-dozen samples speaking to flavors both familiar and novel amidst a somewhat overly sweetened base.
Popular with locals leaving a nearby Thai spot and Soho Japanese, both parties in line before me obviously regulars, it was after a bit of sampling that two selections proved more compelling than the others and told that baked goods are made in house “once or twice daily, as necessary” one could not help but opine for variety, the only flaw found in chocolate chip cookies that had started to turn stale.
Featuring several types of cones plus cups, brownies, coffees and teas it was with items packed in plastic clamshells that I made my way to a small table at the right of the building and although the semi-soft ice cream had already started to permeate the cookies as they were removed from the containers the aforementioned bronzed rounds sandwiching creamy caramel tones of Snickers were still almost tooth-chipping, a bit of a disappointment though the ice cream itself was actually quite pleasant.
Moving onto bigger and better, the $5.99 Macaron Sandwich featuring two sizable French cookies wrapped around a hefty scoop of milky oolong that ate like semifreddo or frozen pudding, some may find it strange to think that the dainty almond flour base could stand up to something moist while still maintaining its texture, yet defying the odds aside from the part actually touching the ice cream the crisp snap of the shell nonetheless gave way to a pillowy melting crumb, the Oreo a spot on rendition of the classic while the purple potato’s savory notes pleasantly complimented tea flavor.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: A bit precious in pricing when compared to places like Gelatology or artisans elsewhere that actually make their own base, there is no doubt Scoop and its Perfect Scoop sibling are turning out a good product for those craving something different and a earlier visit in the day may be warranted to give the cookies a second chance.
In a city blessed by one of the most underregarded Chinatowns in America locals are, perhaps appropriately, rare to consider Las Vegas Boulevard Asian eateries for a special occasion meal, but previously having only visited Jasmine for the now-discontinued Fountains Brunch a recent look spurred by The Year of The Monkey celebration proved that the oft-overlooked destination for foreign tourists remains worthy of its reputation while elevated prices are largely justified by an unmatched view, exotic ingredients and the sort of service befitting clientele with net-worth not infrequently in the millions.
Dining alone and, incidentally, celebrating my sign in the Chinese Calendar it was with a special tasting arranged through the a member of Bellagio’s Department of Food & Beverage that a reservation was made to dine at the 200+ Seat restaurant and arriving minutes prior to a 6:00pm seating the reception could not have been more pleasant, the GM himself attending to much of the night while also orchestrating the menu after confirming personal dislikes and preferences, a request for nothing more than authenticity seeing sixteen different items presented along with wine pairings that were exceedingly well coordinated despite trios of flavor that frequently proved quite discrepant.
Seated at the left edge of lower-rim seats overlooking Bellagio’s Fountains, the “performance” music piped in and admittedly a bit bracing when featuring Uptown Funk or Proud to be an American at high volume, service began with a small plate of Shrimp Chips that reminded me of a childhood favorite from a small place back in Ohio while a crisp glass of Sake immediately prepared the palate for a visually stunning trio of dim sum, a rare case in which form thankfully did not supplant function as the Bok Choy was expectedly a bit bitter while snappy shrimp mouse and sweet crab goldfish were delicate in wrapping and full of flavor.
Asking for small splashes of wine, the complimentary service certain to outlast my tolerance if provided in full 3oz pours, a dry white was selected to accent seafood soup served in a hulled out coconut, the piping hot broth not particularly exciting on its own but gaining complexity as it melted the soft flesh, later bites particularly impressive as the pulp was scraped from the inside and mixed with scallops, squid, shrimp, and fish.
Nicely paced and well staffed, plates delivered with ample descriptions of their constituents and relevance to the Chinese New Year when applicable, course three featured a trio of entrees sized for individualized tasting, the Vouvray’s residual sugars helping to balance saline funkiness from the dried oyster beneath sea moss while the Pinot Noir worked equally well with shredded duck rolls and the flaky sea bass glazed in aged soy sauce.
Offered a plate of hand pulled noodles along with the first set of entrees and gifted fluffy fried rice with bits of scallop to compliment round four it was a fruity 2012 Morgon Vieilles Vignes that joined a second entree trio and although the requested Walnut Prawns were exactly what one would expect from superior shellfish presented in sweet mayo the braised trotter with thread fungus and juicy chicken over cloud ear mushrooms trended far more interesting, the former a bit tough to manipulate considering the bones needing removal atop a limited working space.
At this point asked if I was full, the answer “I can eat” eliciting an ear-to-ear smile from the man running the show, an impromptu plate of sizzling beef was served with a hefty red to bide time before the grand finale, a whole roasted squab presented as “finger food” along with two salts and a warm towel, the skin shattering like glass overlying flesh as soft as foie gras with a rich funk finding its foil in a glass of 2014 Whispering Angel Rose.
Well sated and harboring only modest expectations for dessert, considering the sort of things I had seen at Asian restaurants in the past, it was with a small glass of Grand Marnier that the meal came to a close and with the fountains now dancing to the sounds of a classic it was almost as though Jasmine had saved its greatest surprise for when one may least expect it, the tableside presentation of hot caramel melting a chocolate dome into rich rice pudding centered by an ethereal marshmallow with beads of boba and crispy rice added for contrast.
FOUR STARS: No doubt pricy, the cost nearly quadruple some of the mid-range offerings on Spring Mountain Road, it would be difficult to say that Jasmine is any less an ‘experience’ restaurant than any other fine dining establishment within a Las Vegas Casino while the service and view are almost impossible to beat.
AVOID: With large portions and high prices solo dining outside the Tasting Menu is likely to run up quite a tab without allowing customers to sample more than one or two plates.
TIP: Having done away with the Fountains Brunch the restaurant still offers special event Dim Sum brunches centered around both American Holidays and the Chinese New Year, a call to the Bellagio Concierge the best way to learn of dates, times, and costs.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Pork Belly Benne – Smoked Pork, Charros, Guajillo Sauce, Tomatillo Salsa, Corn Masa, Bearnaise, House Potatoes, Green Salad
White Chocolate French Toast – Salted Caramel, White Chocolate Mousse, Candied Strawberries
Foie Mac Muffin – Short Rib, English Muffin, Poached Egg, Bearnaise, Foie Gras, Foie Pan Sauce
An unabashed fan ever since entering the narrow and homey ‘Social Eatery’ for the first time to the display of housebaked pastries and Noble Tonic No1 & 2 it was with old pals, local legends, plus a longtime friend of the house that a party of five was gathered for the newly launched Boutique Brunch on the Saturday proceeding Valentine’s Day and although baked goods are currently in a state of transition thanks to staffing the new items crafted by Chefs Antonio Nunez and Javier Chavez are every bit as well crafted and delicious as patrons have come to expect.
Starting with a sprawling menu intended to gauge local tastes and since curtailing the offerings to focus on favorites while also allowing for creativity despite a small kitchen, it was once again with a great showing of hospitality that hosts, severs and chefs greeted diners within the jammed-packed space now generating 45 minute waits as patio season is about to begin, and although wait times may seem excessive to those used to chains the quality of craftsmanship and expediting remains remarkable even when compared to the best of what is offered nationwide – whether Portland, Los Angeles, Chicago, or even trendy Brooklyn.
Stating that the new menu is meant to make things seasonal while also giving diners the chance to experience novel ingredients in ways that they may have never conceived, it was with carte blanche deferred to the Kitchen that the morning’s family-style experience was undertaken and kicking off with pastries the new menu sees a focus on American Classics, the Pumpkin Donut and Pear Fritter so lightly fried that they may as well have been baked while the Monkey Bread remains a city-wide standard bearer, the Social Pecan Roll tasting great, the current appearance admittedly a bit deceiving.
Impressed by the buttery Pecan Loaf plus Cookies with a crisp rim and soft center, but finding the Berry-based Muffins to have regressed to the dryness experienced early in the restaurant’s existence, menu based items got underway with a pile of three buttermilk flapjacks shellacked in housemade peanut butter plus jam and with even those who tend to avoid “sweet breakfasts” already smiling another cup of coffee helped clear the palate before veering savory, the vegetal Broccoli Tort eating something like an egg-souffle or fluffy fritatta with saline cheesy notes underlying vibrant Sweet Pepper Coulis and gently smoked Salmon.
Presenting a few new spins on the breakfast sandwiches made famous by a clown and Golden Arches the kitchen next sent forth the Egg Mac Kitchen and with the crispy English Muffin already an upgrade on the original Chef Nunez raises the bar further through the addition of spicy Guacamole plus charred Corn to a nicely fried egg with a bit of levity added by tangy Crema.
Claiming that he was generally unaware of the Avocado Toast trend run amok in LA, a clear sign of a man spending too much time working and not enough traveling or dining out, Nunez’s take on the modern classic slightly misses the Veg-Friendly point by adding Poached Eggs and Bacon Vinaigrette, but proving all the better for it and thus actually quite stunning it was perhaps more expected that the follow-up citrusy Strawberry Short Cake French Toast quickly nudged its way into the spotlight with soft layers of Angel Food Cake happily sopping up cloudy Whipped Cream and lightly sweetened Strawberry Gastrique.
At this point just showing off, some at the table already starting to claim satiety while others more appropriately peered at the ope kitchen in anticipation of what was to come next, Antonio strayed slightly from the menu to present the Pork Belly Benne and with house-smoked pork mixing with beans, masa, and salsa the heat was raised just a touch through the addition of tangy Guajillo chili but still kept in check with creamy Bearnaise, the overall composition appropriately-deemed a table favorite.
Rounding out the meal with two more plates, the White Chocolate French Toast undoubtedly the sort of thing that spoke to holiday often celebrated with sweetness, it was as a grand finale that Kitchen Table sent forth a second ‘breakfast sandwich,’ the Foie Mac Muffin not just featuring a roasted slice of liver but also seeing the bun itself soaked in the pan jus with a topping of tender Short Rib and Bearnaise offering up plenty of richness even before rupturing the soft-poached egg.
FIVE STARS: At this point seeing the endorsement of nearly every media outlet in town, a great thing for the restaurant but a growing concern for those looking to walk-in on a weekend, the only question remaining for Chefs Chavez and Nunez is how long the Buzz will last, a question each seem happy to confront with the sort of menu that never seems to lack for innovation and a commitment to quality that provides plenty of reasons to come back.
RECOMMENDED: Pear Fritter, Monkey Bread, PB&J Pancakes, Smoked Salmon and Broccoli Tort, Strawberry Shortcake French Toast, Foie Mac Muffin.
AVOID: Berry Based Muffins were dry and those arriving after 10am are likely to find Monkey Bread Sold Out.
TIP: Now opening at 7:30am with warmer temperatures in the air and the outdoor patio soon to debut wait times for seats are likely to decrease, though the small kitchen will likely prove a challenge in expediting orders for those arriving during peak times.
Too loud, too trendy, too touristy, too prominently situated on a nationwide list of top money makers and thus too expensive, Los Angeles import STK is one of *those* restaurants that locals love to hate, and although claims regarding of the dearth of affordable dining on Las Vegas Boulevard may indeed be warranted the fact of the matter is that in an economy built on fantasy there are few restaurants pairing quality cuisine with a club-like environment, a look at the work of Chefs Stephen Hopcraft and Brigette Contreras showing The Cosmopolitan’s third floor Steakhouse to offer just that.
Open at 5:30pm with the digital outdoor menu not yet updated to seasonal changes found inside it was followed by a friend caught in traffic that I was greeted on arrival at the hostess podium and undoubtedly setting a standard with staff that is almost *too* good looking it was not long before seating was offered at a spacious four-top, a pleasant and forthcoming media contact named Erica taking the time to sit down and provide a little background on the restaurant as well as herself until my tablemate arrived.
Admittedly a menu with some sticker-shock, the $150 Lobster Thermidore and $22 Sundae not the most expensive I’ve seen but enough to give one pause, it was with excellent service from a surprisingly well-informed and energetic young man that the show got underway and although the DJ did not begin until 7:30 the space was jammed by 6:15, a small kitchen expediting like professionals as staff worked at a breakneck pace.
Energetic but never obnoxiously loud, music from The Doors or Bob Dylan followed by oddities from the Early-80’s playing overhead as patrons chat and dine, every meal at STK begins with their famous-for-good-reason Brioche Pull-apart topped in Blue Cheese Butter with addictive green dipping oil, signature starters of a split batter-fried lobster tail over slaw and seared duck liver with tiny pancakes proving a bit less sharable than one would expect considering the pricetag, though both were well executed and also tasted great.
Well paced and attentive to details, bussers doing a better job than most local fine dining spots at keeping glasses full and dismissing dirty plates, it was after a quick tour of the black and white room with gator skin print plus light that makes anyone look a little more pretty that a dish of carpaccio arrived and although the meat itself is well flavored with balsamic and tomatoes adding acidity, the most impressive aspect of the dish is the unexpected pesto noodles, delicious on their own but even better when placed within the context of the plate.
Duck recently removed from the menu, but still with numerous entrees, steaks and sides made to share, it was on the server’s recommendation that the tender Bone-In Filet was ordered and cooked just past medium-rare the flavor was plentiful, though not as robust as that at Jean Georges, Delmonico or Carnevino, while the Dover Sole spoke to Hopcraft’s skills sharpened while working with Michael Mina, a simple roast rendering the white flesh flaky yet moist with brown butter and capers plus crisp fingerlings that might be even better than STK’s addictive Parmesan Truffle Fries.
Impressed by the manner in which the kitchen allowed the Mushroom Pot Pie to express its intrinsic earthiness without mellowing it for a “club” crowd while taking the corn pudding almost as if it were a pre-dessert considering the substantial use of sugar and cream, the parade of sweetness actually began following a warm Americano that helped to compensate for notably chilly room temperatures, a complimentary trio of housemade ice creams and sorbets highlighted by smooth coconut and a malty version of chocolate both foretelling of good things to come.
Already seeing – and hearing – doubt from the server that two-people could manage four desserts after “so much” food it was with Chef Contreras shattering Apple Tart that the degustation marched on and utilizing phyllo dough plus plenty of butter to construct a high-rising cup around roasted apples the timeless classic found a new level in terms of texture, the robust crust crackling bite-after-bite even as ice cream melted and outperforming STK staples including the rather mundane skillet cookie and exceedingly light donuts that were not excessively sweet despite the maple glaze, best bites being the donut holes with toasty nuts and a dollop of whipped cream.
Particularly intrigued by the aforementioned Sundae, the questions of cost brushed aside with “big enough to share,” suffice it to say that although quite well conceptualized in terms of taste and complexity there are far better ways to spend $22 on Ice Cream elsewhere in Las Vegas, the tender banana bread itself likely better utilized as part of recently-launched Sunday brunch or the previous menu’s bread pudding.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Although when taken in the context of Las Vegas Steakhouses STK falls somewhere in the middle of the pack as relates to a cost/quality analysis there is little doubt that when considered for what it is there are few places executing on such a level with as many options catering to the “non-foodie” crowd.
RECOMMENDED: Brioche Pull-Apart, Beef Carpaccio, Mushroom Pot Pie, Dover Sole, Apple Tart, Sweet Potato Donuts.
AVOID: The Crispy Lobster Tail is excessively priced and a bit lost in the slaw while the Warm Chocolate Chip Cookie is entirely forgettable.
TIP: Open at 5:30pm with the live DJ Set starting at 7:30pm those desiring less of a scene are advised to arrive early but also to bring a coat as the restaurant trends exceedingly cold until enough bodies are present to warm things up.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Apricot Pate de Fruit, Pear Caramel, Sable with White Chocolate and Raspberry, Mint, Coconut Meringue
Thoroughly impressed by Andre’s at Monte Carlo, but less enthused by a meal tainted by awkward service and a confusing menu a few months later at Alize, it was on the invitation of Director of Operations Joe Marsco that myself and a friend once again ascended to the 56th floor of The Palms’ Ivory Tower, a three-hour seven course tasting comprising fifteen plates for the most part outstanding in a room offering one of the very best views in Sin City.
Toqued by Marc Purdy with pastries crafted by Tammy Alana, undoubtedly one of Las Vegas’ most underrated talents, it was with warm greetings plus jokes about couples trying to thieve the window-side four top that our party arrived for a 6:30pm reservation and although the space was only perhaps half full at such an early hour it would not be long before the crowd swelled to capacity, most treating the space with a proper respect for fine dining while others unfortunately behaved with “Vegas Baby!” entitlement and little regard for the tables around them.
Admittedly ‘known’ to the restaurant, both Chefs paying an early visit to discuss a carte blanche menu tailored to our preferences, service at Alize remains best coordinated when captains are present and unhurried, a similar issue to my first visit noted as food runners are prone to mispronunciation while water glasses often find themselves empty.
Upscale but unpretentious, prices and portions far less affronting than the French Masters on The Strip, dinner began with parallel presentations of caviar, the White Sturgeon version offering a small dollop with traditional accoutrements in an elegant presentation while the vegetarian concept was both bold and refreshing beneath and aromatic shallot vinaigrette.
Starting out small, a good thing considering that which was yet to come, course two came with a presentation of three breads and salted butter, the rice flour roll a “best ever” gluten-free option while the salted pretzel wasn’t too shabby itself, both going well with a meaty plate of raw beef in two styles plus a creamy torchon of duck liver presented along with several intriguing accoutrements.
Not often wowed by scallops, but unable to resist a look at Purdy’s concept coating sweet mollusk with spicy sausage, suffice it to say that the texture comes off something like a Scotch Egg with a far more assertive flavor while the complexities of hash mixed to creamy orange soup threatens to steal the show, a follow-up of French Onion soup served inside a roasted onion as eye-catching as it is delicious with subtle sours invigorating the beefy broth.
Using bread to sop up all the garlic sauce and pommes puree remaining from plump snails served atop a bone that was unfortunately 1/2 porous and thus lacking sorely for marrow it was on to smoky aged Duck Breast served medium-rare that the tasting marched on, a true “embarrassment of riches” sort of dish matching the rosy red meat to a seared medallion of foie gras plus a crispy bed of soba.
Opting to go all-in for entrees, full menu portions of the Rack of Lamb and pastry-wrapped Veal both perfectly cooked, though the latter’s subtle flavor was a little lost in notes of sesame pervading the crust, a great little bite is found in Purdy’s toothsome Falafel as well as the lightly-sweetened Kefta Sausage that is housemade just like the variety of encased meats frequently featured at Andre’s.
Palates cleansed with yogurt there was little doubt that delight would be delivered with any of Tammy’s desserts, but truly going above and beyond by sending out five along with a vacuum pot of coffee the question of which was best largely came down to that of personal preferences, both the creamy Tres Leches and dazzling Cheesecake likely to dazzle fruit lovers while the crème brulee and poached pears offer an update on time-tested classics.
Taking time to savor the rich Chocolate Cake with creamy Peanut Butter, Caramelized Banana and an Ice Cream that added a shocking degree of balance thanks to its savory roasted notes it was with mignardises from a small cart that the meal was ended, a rolled menu with a gold ribbon presented with the last of the coffee as I gazed out over 270+º of The Valley.
FOUR STARS: Subjected to the limitations of its tourist population, far too many selfies and ridiculous “I’m going to toss you out the window” gestures seen by two adjacent tables, there is little doubt that Purdy and Alana are crafting some great food at the top of the Palms, the rare “restaurant with a view” that is actually worth visiting for a true Chef’s Tasting instead of drinks and nibbles at the bar.
AVOID: Bone beneath the Escargots was cut too close to the kneecap and thus yielded less than a teaspoon of Marrow, Veal was lost among the flavors of seeds and what tasted like Rye in the pastry shell.
TIP: Windowside seats are at a premium and should be requested long in advance, though in reality every seat in the house offers a pretty stellar view. Those interested in ‘event dining’ may also wish to check out the March 4th “Table in the Sky” event currently detailed on the website.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Chinese Pork “Chop Salad” – Shredded Cabbage, Char Sui Pork, Shitake Mushrooms, Carrot, Daikon, Pickled Fresnos, Peanuts, Ginger Vinaigrette
Slider Sampler – Double Smoked Bacon with Smoked Gouda, ‘Merican Cheese, Lettuce, Secret Sauce, Bacon and Bacon / Peanut Butter Crunch with Bacon Jam, Potato Chips, Pimento Cheese / The 1842 with Caramelized Onions, Mushrooms, Truffle Aioli / Korean BBQ Salmon Burger with Cucumber Kimchi, Ginger Aioli
St. Louis Ribs, Pulled Pork Sandwich, Beef Brisket, Half Chicken – Dry Rubbed and Smoked Over Apricot Wood – Served with Jalapeno Cornbread
Pub Mac n’ Cheese – Five Cheeses, Caramelized Onion
Roasted Butternut Squash – Brown Butter, Sage, Hazelnut Streusel
Crispy Fried Brussels Sprouts – Granny Smith Apples, Apple Cider Syrup
Kale Caesar – Baby Kale, Parmesan, Garlic Streusel
Baked Beans – Heritage Pork, Kansas City Sauce
Chocolate Sticky Toffee Cake – Chocolate Bundt Cake with Hints of Bourbon and Coffee, Warm Spiked Caramel, Lightly Salted Caramel Corn
Apple Cobbler – Spiced Apples, Vanilla Ice Cream, Caramel Sauce
Salty Caramel and Chocolate Malted Shake Tasting
At one time proclaiming Michael Mina my favorite American Chef it was with gusto that I made my way to PUB1842 shortly after its debut, but clearly suffering an identity crisis as a restauranteur attempting to turn casual it was that experience followed by the disaster of Stripsteak that suddenly caused me caution – questions as to whether Mina had “sold-out” and whether his concepts could ever again be as innovative or well executed as before thankfully answered affirmatively by the 2015 launch of Bardot Brasserie, thus providing the impetus to investigate past impressions once more.
Now in its third year of operation, long past the days of lobster corn dogs or confit duck with an all-in focus on American eats like burgers, wings and ‘cue, PUB1842 continues to occupy a sizable space within The District of The MGM Grand and although Chef Tony Schutz may not be a household name amongst tourist or locals a tasting of the menu shows the work of someone with more passion than most would imagine from mere *bar food*, each and every item not only “better than it has to be” but a labor intensive investment in quality ingredients treated with both care and skill.
Arranging the tasting through Josh Smith of Bardot, a fixed price giving Tony carte blanche to serve as he’d like, it was just after PUB1842’s 11:30am opening that myself and three friends were greeted by Assistant General Manager Dana Hostmeyer and led to a table, the nearly-two dozen menu items to follow offered in sharable portions with beverage service coordinated by a staff that is friendly, timely and well informed.
Declining beer flights, none of us imbibing but instead opting for iced tea and coffee from LAMill, it was following greetings from Chef Schutz that the the afternoon got underway and kicking things off with meaty drumsticks alongside lightly battered calamari the quality of accompanying sauces showed good attention to detail, the same to be said of an enormous “half portion” of PUB1842’s signature nachos tinged in Fresno peppers balanced by a cheesy blend and chili made from slow-roasted Heritage Pork.
Amused by the “Celebrity Chef” endorsement stamped on a menu substantially overhauled from day one it was not long before a duo of salads was delivered by Tony and Dana, the vibrant beets accentuated by cheese and spiced pecans while the Chef’s Special Chop Salad looked eastward with chicharones and Char Sui liberally tossed in a bed of Napa cabbage, shredded carrots, and Shitake mushrooms along with pickled peppers, peanuts, and a tangy ginger sauce.
Requesting the Beercheese pretzels outright, the longtime menu staple with a poached egg still a highlight from visit one, little has changed as the sauce remains spoon-worthy long after the soft batons are finished and moving on to a quartet of sliders one would be hard-pressed to name a “best of” as all were well crafted with bronzed buns perfectly amenable to copious toppings, the Peanut Butter Crunch warranting praise for both the housemde Bacon Jam as well as Pimento Cheese while the Korean BBQ Salmon was surprisingly craveable thanks to the quality of the meat and fermented flavors complimented by ginger aioli.
Lamenting the quality of barbeque in Las Vegas, much like most who have properly investigated the genre across the land, it was with admitted skepticism that I approached Schutz’s loaded silver tray, but setting aside pulled pork that trended more Kansas City style sweet than my preferences for Carolina vinegar the answer to “where to find good BBQ in Las Vegas?” was quickly answered, the sticky ribs easily sliding from bones with a rich, porky sapor while the fatty brisket melted across the palate with uncompromising smokiness accentuated by salt and pepper, even the chicken noteworthy as crisp skin clung to juicy flesh beneath.
Not particularly sold on the side of Kale, though Butternut Squash and fried Brussels Sprouts with Apples scored high marks along with pepper-spike cornbread that necessitated extras served with smooth honey butter, it is somewhat disappointing that low sales have set limitations for Mina’s ever-strong pastry program, but doing their best with what is offered it should be assumed that any shake made with Ice Cream from Straus Family Creamery is a safe bet, as too is the simple apple cobbler while the Sticky Toffee Cake puts a cocoa and coffee spin on the British classic beneath boozy caramel sauce and salty popcorn.
FOUR STARS: A bit more pricey than some would expect for ‘bar food,’ though no moreso many Las Vegas Boulevard properties offering a similar bill of fare that is likely far less well-crafted, PUB1842 has clearly matured nicely under the care of Chef Tony…now if only they could compliment that Barbeque with some Pecan Pie or Banana Pudding.
RECOMMENDED: Hot Soft Pretzels, Cornbread, Korean BBQ Salmon Burger, Crispy Fried Brussels Sprouts, BBQ Brisket or Chicken, Chocolate Sticky Toffee Cake.
AVOID: Pulled Pork Sandwich, Kale Caesar.
TIP: Boisterous around the bar, with dozens of televisions and a rock n’ roll soundtrack, those looking for a more sedate experience are encouraged to sit on the makeshift ‘patio’ overlooking the district where keg-tables and booths both seem to be in high demand.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Canapes – Mascarpone Pan Souffle, Green Apple Tuille, Parmesan Gruyere Puff, Black Rice Tartlette with Radish, Butter Crackers, Nori Crackers, French White Sauce, Dirty Martini Gelee
Salted and Unsalted Echire Butter, Baguette, Cranberry Multigrain Toast, Cherry Walnut Roll
Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Chestnut Veloute, Julienne Celeriac, Tumeric Chips, Frisee Salad, Black Truffle
Grand Dessert: Pistachio Panna Cotta, Pears Soaked in Passion Fruit, Pistachio Crumble / Lychee and Pineapple in Clementine Syrup, Vanilla Cream, Dulce de Leche Chocolate / Apricot, Raisins, Figs in Kirsch, Saffron Jaconde, Lemon Cream, Almond Paste / Gianduja Ganache, Bailey’s Caramel, Coffree Meringue, Coffee Parfait / Huckleberry Compote, Coconut Gelee, Cassis Sorbet, Hazelnut Nougatine
Mignardises – “Froot Loop” Macaron, Chocolate Cup with Almonds and Quince Paste, Apple Tart with Whipped Cream
Reloading the kitchen in the wake of Ryuki Kawasaki’s departure for Thailand in early 2015 it was again to a former Sketch Chef that Pierre Gagnaire turned in Autumn, and sitting with three friends for dinner at Twist in The Mandarin Oriental for the first time since the turnover one could not help but wonder whether the giant of modern gastronomy had perhaps gone to the well once too often, the room and pastries from Chef Vivian Chang – formerly of Yardbird – ascending to levels befitting the rarefied air above The Strip while Frederic Don’s plates oftentimes seemed as out of place as the restaurant’s more ‘casual’ style of service.
As yet the least heralded of the French Masters calling Las Vegas home, Gagnaire’s high-risk/high-reward style and location in a hotel not offering comps to high-rollers like MGM or Caesars’ potentially dissuading all but those in-the-know, Twist 2016 sees many familiar faces floating about a dining room dressed in glowing baubles with pop-music admixing with French tunes overhead, and starting at the podium guests are offered a warm welcome followed by escort to the table, captains quick to offer cocktails plus the wine list while thrice pushing up-charged bottles of water as though poison were present in Lake Mead.
Admittedly known to the house, this my sixth visit as others possessed familial or industry ties far more notable, it was after greetings from several staff members that menus were offered and opting to go a la carte, with some ordering as little s one entree, it was almost immediate that warning flares were fired, the potentially low tab seeing runners and back servers largely take over with subsequent tongue-in-cheek platitudes dominating “all-time-favorite” presentations of items only last week added to the menu.
Still focusing on his signature multiple-plate style, canapes presented as a series of seven nibbles from which the brisk gelee and sweet green wafer were most memorable, bread service was surprisingly quick to follow and with the room at only perhaps 25% capacity for the 7 o’clock seating it was over two plates gilded with Echire butter that conversation flowed freely, the Cherry Walnut Roll easily one of the best complimentary table breads in the city.
Opting to focus on the seasonal Black Truffle menu for both appetizer and entree it was with a small slice of Foie Gras featuring a good sear that the proper meal began and with elevated expectations based on a similar soup in 2015 it was unfortunate that the version suggested online had been replaced by one featuring bitter celeriac and turmeric plus a warm salad, the sparse shavings of black truffle added in the kitchen offering little-to-no depth to an already rich and earthy composition.
Generous in a way, but at the same time clearly not doing due diligence to the ticket when sending out a complimentary course, a 2 x 2 offering from the tasting menu was presented before entrees and although half were offered the “Twist Poached Eggs” with vibrant greet Sabayon plus thinly cut Spanish Ham the others were presented a dish described as “Sea Bass and Scallop,” the flavor and texture identical to my entree minus the cabbage and thus not really a ‘bonus’ at all.
Presenting a spicy citrus sorbet to cleanse palates between similar savories, the complex flavors a good sign of things to come, it was in small bites that I slowly enjoyed a smoky fish souffle that unfortunately once again saw truffles muted amidst background ingredients before the meal transitioned to works from the pastry kitchen, all five menu items sent out at once, quickly flooding the table with plates.
No doubt likely to benefit from a new mindset when it it comes to sweets, the program previously a bit tired outside of the brilliant White Truffle Souffle offered under Kawasaki’s toque, suffice it to say that Chang’s skill set has already begun to flourish under the tutelage of Gagnaire and his love for exotic ingredients, conformity challenged at every turn with classics such as the low-souffle punched up by coffee and Amaretto plus a Martini glass sidecar of lemon, pistachio, and chocolate plus the elegant Tarte Tatin with Vanilla Ice Cream and boozy caramel, a cup of Orange Marmalade, Dragon Fruit and Orange Blossom Ice Cream unexpectedly complimenting flavors bite-for-bite.
THREE STARS: A touch perplexed by Gagnaire’s choice in Don, the previous Eastern influence of Kawasaki a better fit to the Chef’s recent inklings and likely to play better to Mandarin Oriental guests, perhaps it will take time for the savory half of the kitchen to reach previous best-in-the-city standards, the better bet for now being to take in the view while nibbling on bread and cheese followed by dessert.
AVOID: The Black Truffle Menu shows little of the luxury ingredient’s characteristic complexity despite upcharges seeing appetizers starting around $45 each.
TIP: Peak seating appears to be 8:30pm on weekends, after which the room was over 80% full and quite loud with slowed service often seeing water glasses empty and even more casual cliches offered when delivering plates. Previous experiences, three with Gagnaire present in the restaurant, have never lacked in professionalism or catering to guests need, no matter the circumstances.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Rellenos de Papa – Potato Balls filled with Ground Beef
Surullitos – Fried Corn Sticks
Maduros – Sweet Plantains
Carne Frita con Tostones – Fried Pork Chunks with Fried Plantains
Tostones al Ajillo – Fried Plantains with Garlic Sauce
Bacalaitos – Fried Cod Fish Fritters
Chuletas Fritas with Arroz con Gandules – Crispy Pork Chop with Puerto Rican Fried Rice
Mofongo – Fried Mashed Plantains
Arroz con Dulce – Cinnamon Rice Pudding with Raisins
Tembleque – Coconut Custard
Still a favorite of First Fridays and Local Markets, but now turned brick and mortar in the Food Court at 6475 West Charleston Boulevard, Sofrito Rico Authentic Puerto Rican Cuisine is a family run business from the husband and wife team of Jason and Susanette Sandoval, the duo looking to bring the food of their ancestors to local natives but equally happy to spread the wealth to all of Las Vegas with everything handmade in house and plentiful portions to share.
No doubt the definition of an “Under the Radar” location, the indoor counter one of many in a dingy space seemingly made specifically for folks attending a nearby community college, Sofrito Rico presents a variety of authentic Puerto Rican options on laminated menus as well as an overhead flatscreen television and with a deceptively large working space that appears sparkling clean from the window the service offered is equally spotless, suggestions provided as requested and all questions answered with a smile.
Modestly priced across the board, appetizers mostly $3 or under with proper meals rarely crossing into double digits, dining at Sofritio Rico is offered both dine-in as well as take-out and with Grubhub delivery plus over-the-phone ordering offered for those in a hurry it warrants mention that wait times are entirely dependent on time of day, the made-to-order freshness leading to a twenty minute delay to delivery of our sizable four-person order.
Not particularly a “light” style of cooking, the majority of items either fried or served with sides of bean stew or Puerto Rican-style rice, approximately one-half of the Sofrito Rico menu focuses on streetfood classics and whether one opts for Empanadas in one of three varieties, well-seasoned Potato Balls stuffed with Ground Beef, or enormous fritters of briny shredded salt cod tastebuds are likely to be pleased with the resultant flavors as well as textures, all three virtually oilless and most portions sharable by two.
Less so “finger food,” but no less delicious or worthy of cost, those seeking something sweeter to start the meal are encouraged to investigate either the Alcapurrias that match tender taro with shredded pork or intensely sweet pan-seared Maduros, the elongated Surullitos something like batter-dipped polenta but not quite as creamy, the sort of thing that required dipping sauce to be truly enjoyable – something provided by the Sandoval’s in the form of ketchup mixed with Mayo.
Doubling up on Tostones, the weighty fried pressed Plantain discs offered alongside cubes of fried pork and then as a side dish dressed in Garlic it was with mashed Mofongo that the meal marched onward, the rustic presentation starchy but soft with a surprisingly complex depth of savory flavors.
Undoubtedly over-ordering, an $80 tab yielding enough food to satiate a group nearly twice our size, the meal’s final savory featured a pair of crispy bone-in Pork Chops lightly fried next to bean and potato stew plus Puerto Rican Fried Rice, the later far better than expected while the former possessed an odd pungency that saw most cut themselves off after just one bite.
Told by the server that desserts were “great” it was with four small cups that the meal would end, and although generally not usually impressed by coconut it was a welcome surprise that the creamy Coconut Custard called “Tembleque” was every bit as spoon-worthy as the sticky rice pudding teeming with cinnamon and raisins plus coconut cream and ginger.
FOUR STARS: Limited only by the sketchy dining room and fixed seating that puts adjacent diners knee-to-knee Sofrito Rico Authentic Puerto Rican Cuisine offers great food at an equally impressive pricepoint considering both quality and portions with smiling service that seems as eager to educate as it is to please.
RECOMMENDED: Bacalaitos, Alcapurrias, Carne Frita con Tostones, Tembleque, Arroz con Dulce.
AVOID: Bean Stew, Chuletas (at least compared to the Carne Frita,) and Dining Solo.
TIP: Not particularly well demarcated from the street, look for the baby blue “Campus Commons Food Court” also featuring Korean BBQ, Boba Tea and Mexican Food, Sofrito Rico merely labeled as “Puerto Rican Cuisine” on the sign.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
