Pantry, Las Vegas NV

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Pantry

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La Colombe Pacific Blend Coffee

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Cinnamon Sugar Donut Bites

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Two Cheddar Chive Biscuits – Honey and Butter

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Blueberry and Banana Nut Muffins

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Abuela’s Huevos Rancheros – Fried Eggs, Black Beans, Corn Tortillas, Cotija Cheese, Avocado Crema, Salsa

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Chicken & Waffles – Texas Pete Fried Chicken, Buttermilk Vanilla Waffle

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White Chocolate Brioche French Toast – Berry Compote & Whipped Mascarpone

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Strawberry Shortcake Pancakes – Strawberry Ice Cream, Vanilla Whipped Cream, Pure Maple Syrup

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Long targeted as a place for breakfast given the beautiful space, quality ingredients, and collection of favorites including an ever-changing ‘pancake of the week’ it was finally with friends in town that I sat down at The Mirage’s 24/7 Pantry, a three course order marred only by the confusing menu where dashed-boxes unclearly delineate ‘exclusions’ to the mix & match bakery section while denoting highlights elsewhere, and not every “Take The Best Of It – Comes with Smash Browns” actually comes with the spuds, regardless of what the subtext says.

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Offering breakfast all day, and the rest of the menu from 11a until 11p, Pantry is located at the back of The Mirage and with an open café up-front overlooking the gaming floor and a more cozy family-style dining area in back it was in the latter that we sat, a large four-top easily big enough for six set for just three soon greeted by a middle-aged waitress named Rina who dutifully pushed coffee (an excellent roast from La Colombe charged at $5 per pot, without free refills, though diners are left to discover that for themselves) before filling water and taking orders, the request for items to be coursed out loosely adhered to until it was reinforced after round two landed atop quarter-finished baked goods.

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Told that the donuts could not be included in the ‘mix & match’ because it was “in a box, see” and then served only one biscuit, instead of the menu-listed two, because “it was part of the mix & match” as though one was supposed to infer this information for themselves, suffice it to say that at $9 the biscuit and two muffins were still a veritable bargain considering the quality and although the donut bites were a bit steep at $5 for six, the crispy sugar shell over a light brioche center was every bit as good as those at Puck’s Postrio which carry a tariff several dollars more – the addition of locally sourced honey, whipped butter, and two types of housemade jam the sort of small details I’d gladly pay a premium for whether dining near home or on the Strip.

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Sitting, chatting, and enjoying the first round it was less than five minutes later that a man arrived porting two plates and setting aside the muffins and donuts while informing him to put the brakes on expediting the next course it was soon in chicken and waffles alongside huevos rancheros that we partook, neither served with the ‘smashed browns’ advertised on the menu but both again showing the work of a confident kitchen working with quality ingredients, the crispy tortillas beneath eggs and accoutrements featuring no lack of dynamic flavors or textures while as the spicy chicken featured skin that crackled to the tooth atop a supple and aromatic waffle more than ready to sop up plenty of pure maple syrup served in a sizeable sidecar.

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Transitioning back to sweets, another pot of coffee elected even after assuming the upcharge based on the menu’s description, it was perhaps a gluttonous choice to pick both the pancake of the week and four-piece French Toast when eating with friends generally not the sort to indulge in such things but never one to shy away from over-ordering to experience the best of what a place has to offer it was honestly a surprise to even myself just how excellent Pantry’s griddles were, the decadent custard soaked brioche cooked golden and topped with rich mascarpone plus plenty of berries featuring far more chopped chocolate than one would have ever assumed while the fluffy flapjack trio was not only topped with housemade strawberry jam and freshly sliced berries but also imbued with strawberries and cream in the batter and layered between each cake, a large dollop of whip and a small ball of ice cream added to finish perhaps a bit unnecessary, though I certainly didn’t hear anyone complain.

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THREE AND A HALF STARS:  Confounded by a menu seemingly built to confuse and up-sell with the sort of service that is trained to turn tables it is almost as if Pantry does not know just how good the food coming out of the kitchen really is, particularly for a 24-hour spot on the Strip – a bit more attention to detail from the front of house would go a long way to giving the chefs the credit they deserve.

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RECOMMENDED:  Biscuit, Pancakes, French Toast.

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AVOID:  Donuts, ordering without asking questions and/or reading the menu thoroughly.

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TIP:  Pancake of the Week and off-menu specials can be found on the restaurant’s Facebook page or the small menu board behind the hostess podium for those visiting The Mirage.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.mirage.com/restaurants/pantry.aspx#

Pantry on Urbanspoon

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, La Colombe, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pantry, Waffles

Yardbird Southern Table & Bar [6,] Las Vegas NV

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Yardbird

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Fried Green Tomato BLT – pork belly, greens, tomato jam, house-made pimento cheese

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Low & Slow Smoked Chicken Salad – Haas Avocado, Warm Fried Cornbread, Yogurt Dressing

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Mama’s Chicken Biscuits – free range fried chicken, pepper jelly, housepickles, house-made buttermilk biscuit

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St Louis Style Pork Ribs – tender slow-cooked, house BBQ sauce

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Smoked & Roasted Bone Marrow – country bread, onion jam

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Deviled Eggs – fresh chive, smoked trout roe ‘redneck caviar’

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Warm Farmer’s Cheese – Watermelon, Olive Oil, Sea Salt

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Shrimp n’ Grits – Florida shrimp, crisp Virginia ham, Nora Mill Granary grits

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Pot Pie – Andouille Sausage, Italian Sausage, Smoked Chicken, Traditional Gravy, Laminated Biscuit Top

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Macaroni and Cheese – Torchio Pasta, Five Artisinal Cheeses, Crispy Herb Crust

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Chicken n’ Watermelon n’ Waffles – Fried Chicken, Hot Sauce Honey, Spiced Watermelon, Cheddar Cheese Chow Chow Waffle, Bourbon Maple Syrup

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Short Rib n’ Grits – 18oz Bone-In Short Rib, Nora Mill Granary Corn Grits, Charred Corn, Haricot Vert, Sweet Garlic Bordelaise

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Cornmeal Chess Pie – Sorghum Chantilly, Caramel Sauce, Caramel Pretzel, Popcorn

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Deep Fried Oreos – Rice Crispy Doughnut Dough Fried Oreos, Oreo Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce

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Blue and Black Cobbler – Blueberries, Blackberries, Oat Crumble, Honey Ice Cream

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Bacon Butterscotch Cake – Pecan Filling, Bourbon Ice Cream, Butterscotch Sauce

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Having previously visited Yardbird Las Vegas five times in the two months since opening, while also investing some of my appetite in Miami at the original in November, there was little doubt where I would spend my birthday dinner with friends and with the private room arranged by Marketing Manager Niceole Ismert and a carte blanche menu prepared by Chef Todd Harrington the experience was no less than exemplary, a few new plates experienced while several old favorites made an appearance at the table where I was joined by six friends.

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Mostly allowing the kitchen to chart our course, a few suggestions made by myself so that friends could experience the plates I’ve come to love, every item I’ve described at length prior was just as good as ever and with service a given considering the circumstances everything from lighting to music was tailored to our needs, the only thing not ‘perfect’ being the fact that none of us had come prepared for quite so much irresistible food – most of the plates presented in duplicate at a prix-fixe cost far beneath what one would have paid ordering a la carte.

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Speaking now to new items, a total of three including one not yet offered on the menu, much has been mentioned in the past of Yardbird’s smoking program and beginning with the St. Louis Style Ribs with a plethoric pile of bone marrow to follow one would be hard pressed to decide which was a more impressive use of the technique, the former fall-from-the-bone tender with sauce that served to compliment rather than overwhelm while the marrow was heavily imbued with char, the richness cut by housemade onion jam and pickles that made nearly everyone a temporary okra fan.

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Always going above and beyond to invent, create, and improve a menu that has not sat on its laurels for even a moment since the space opened their doors it was after a few more favorites that Todd arrived tableside with an all-new item, and describing the laminated biscuit dough pastry overlying a ‘pot pie’ far more European than what would be expected from the Amish or folks down South one couldn’t help but be impressed, the golden crust again displaying the unabashed talent of the pastry team while the interior was densely packed with several types of meat ranging from smoky chicken to spicy andouille bathed in thick, savory jus.

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Already quite full even before two full plates of the restaurant’s signature “Chicken n’ Watermelon n’ Waffles” arrived, not to mention crocks of macaroni and the newly introduced short rib with charred corn grits, it was with most of the table waving a white flag that desserts did appear and with cobbler, fried Oreos, and a thick wedge of Bacon Butterscotch Birthday Cake all prone to please it was the full sized Chess Pie that officially made my night – a perfect ending to a meal surrounded by friends from a kitchen I knew I could trust with my ‘special day.’

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http://www.venetian.com/restaurants/american/yardbird.html

Posted in Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Waffles, Yardbird, Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, Yardbird Southern Table and Bar

Dougie J’s Cafe, Las Vegas NV

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Dougie J’s Café

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The Riz – French Toast stuffed with Nutella and Whipped Cream

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Big G’s Blueberry Pancakes (1 cake)

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Pink Diablo – Batter Dipped Peanut Butter, Bacon, and Banana on White Bread rolled in Frosted Flakes

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The Bubba – Steamed Pastrami on Marble Rye with Cole Slaw, Swiss, Dougie Sauce

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Fried Chicken and Biscuit with housemade white gravy (1/2 order)

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Blueberry Coffee Cake

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The Bad Influence – Bacon, Pretzel Toffee from Whoa!, Cranberry, Chocolate Chips

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Owned and operated by Suni Chabrow with a menu crafted by her longtime friend and business partner, a former bodybuilder and attorney downtown, Dougie J’s Café is Sin City’s only Patriotic dining locale and with a portion of the proceeds benefitting the Memorial Foundation of Suni’s fallen hero son it is undoubtedly the sort of space that everyone would love to see succeed, the potential no doubt there but a few tweaks necessary before the food will truly ‘wow.’

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Patriotically decorated without pandering to the “USA, USA” crowd it was after contacting Suni directly about the restaurant’s concept and the possibility of ordering a few ‘half-portions’ to better assess the menu that I arrived at for Saturday lunch and with both Ms. Chabrow and the menu’s creator present throughout my hour-long stay it can only be said that the whimsical cuisine and story of the space was interesting and inspiring, respectively, while both were thoroughly explained.

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Largely opting to indulge in breakfast, while allowing the Chef liberty with portion sizes and price, it was with a full order of The Riz that the meal began and featuring well-saturated brioche from Bon Bread at its base the French Toast sandwiching Nutella and Whip was decidedly sweet, a pitcher of artificial maple syrup thankfully unnecessary both here and in the follow-up blueberry pancake that was fluffy and well aerated, more than suitable for sopping up butter as well as blueberry reduction though the berries within the batter were somewhat disappointing and bland.

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Chatting with the proprietors as I ate, stories including Soni’s decision to pursue a lifelong passion for making English Toffee striking a chord about the value of following one’s dreams, it was next that a whole order of the Pink Diablo arrived and drawing on concepts other restaurants would just as happily attributed to Elvis both the portion and flavor was plethoric, though much of the nuance was lost due to far too much peanut butter, a half portion more than enough to satisfy my curiosity though I did indeed pay for a whole.

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Next sent out a half “Bubba,” a dish I neither desired nor requested but was happy to try given the staff’s glowing reviews, suffice it to say that between the watery pastrami and substantial amount of slaw little of the $6.50 I was charged for the gift was worth it, the ‘Dougie Sauce’ a lone exception with a whole lot of heat packed into the Russian-Style cream.

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Back to items I’d inquired about, it was to a haphazard ‘torn’ half biscuit alongside fried chicken with thick country gravy that I was treated next and with the bird pounded flat and nearly flavorless while the biscuit large but no better than Bisquick suffice it to say this was a major miss, a fact made all the more humorous when the man behind the menu idly poked fun at the food at Hash-House-a-Go-Go before also admitting the lazy-man ingredient was used in Dougie J’s signature blueberry coffee cake – a dish still well worth ordering given the substantial use of cinnamon and delicate, buttery crumb.

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Unable to make me an Apple Fritter, one of the items I’d specifically requested and one that Suni couldn’t stop raving about even after telling me the restaurant had failed to procure apples on that day, it was with a single “Bad Influence” cookie that my meal ended and served hot and gooey from the oven with bits of Suni’s Whoa! Foods Toffee filling the batter alongside bittersweet cranberries anyone in the area, which means anyone in DTLV or East Fremont, should consider stopping in to grab one…or perhaps a dozen as it may just be the best cookie on Las Vegas Boulevard right now.

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THREE STARS:  Originally served a bill with a pre-tip of just under $75 – whole stacks of pancakes, full sandwiches, and a full  order of chicken and biscuits rang up along with what I’d actually ordered…and the Bubba which I had not…but later adjusted to a tally of $62 inclusive of tax and tip, the prices at Dougie J’s are unfortunately far out of line to the quality of product used or served and while I’m happy to donate to a great cause like The Douglas J. Green Foundation I’d have sooner done so on a voluntary basis rather than be upcharged for many of the things I tasted, though there are undoubtedly some gems on the menu to be found.

RECOMMENDED:  The Bad Influence, The Riz, Blueberry Coffee Cake

AVOID:  The Bubba, Chicken and Biscuit

TIP:  Located on a corner with plenty of parking just south of the more happening parts of Fremont and DTLV and open at 8am with seating for 42, those looking to check out Dougie J’s are well advised to also look into Suni’s Whoa! Foods Toffee, both the peanut butter and pretzel offered as samples during my stay found to be melt-in-the-mouth excellent and offered throughout the valley with some of the proceeds also going to the charity bearing her son’s name.

http://www.dougiejscafe.com/

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Dougie J's, Dougie J's Cafe, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

Honey Cakes Café, Las Vegas NV

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Honey Cakes Café

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Butterscotch Muffin

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Red Velvet Pancakes with a scoop of Birthday Cake Gelato

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French Toast with 100% Maple Syrup

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Pecan Bun

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Apple Croissant

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Hazelnut Croissant

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Almond Macaron

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Salted Caramel Macaron

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Oatmeal Raisin Cookie

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Carrot Bundt Cake

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Tucked away in a shopping center in Centennial, with early morning hours seven days a week, it was on a whim that I decided to travel up to Honey Cakes Café and although the twenty-two minute drive to an area I really had no other reason to visit proved a hassle due to an early morning traffic incident slowing cars to a crawl my 7:20am arrival found the small café ready and waiting – no customers quite yet, but the shelves and cooling racks stocked with no less than two dozen varieties of fresh pastries while the small kitchen gleaming as a cook stood mixing batters for a variety of made-to-order plates.

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Owned and operated by a gentleman named Anthony, a classically trained baker who has manned and managed the kitchens of some of Sin City’s finest resorts, it was with the Chef himself present and happy to chat that several pastries were discussed and focusing mostly on personal favorites as well as those hot from the oven seven options were selected, a complimentary apple croissant plus two plates from the kitchen and a ball of housemade gelato comprising an order totaling just shy of $40.

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Beginning first with a muffin, taken back to the kitchen in order to be rewarmed in the oven, suffice it to say that anyone who fancies butterscotch would be well served to drive up to Honey Cakes ASAP as the Scotch infused batter dotted with golden chips is undeniably delicious without being overly sweet and following this up with a fresh laminated pastry packed with housemade apple-cinnamon compote a theme was established, the flavor of apples in abundance with a relative lack of sugar allowing the buttery layers of pastry to shine.

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At this point receiving two made-to-order plates, one with a ball of sumptuous ‘birthday cake’ gelato, it was a bit of a surprise that the pancakes were served far thinner than many Las Vegas breakfast institutions but with rich cocoa notes and a delicate crumb freely lacquered by a pitcher of 100% Maple Syrup the flavors were robust and on par with those several times more costly on the Strip, the French Toast faring slightly less well largely due to the high egg content of housemade brioche and the fact that it was not soaked long enough to allow custard to penetrate all the way through.

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Moving back to pastry, the last item consumed within the café arriving halfway through my pancakes and French Toast, one must consider the phrase “the early bird gets the worm” quite appropriate when considering Chef Anthony’s $4.50 Pecan Roll because, while I cannot guarantee it is nearly as good midday, the piping hot version just out of the oven was not only stunning in the quantity of pecans and caramelized sugar packed into each bite, but also by the crunchy shell with stretchy-soft dough within – a reference standard iteration of a classic that I’d rank best in the city by some distance, and on par with the best I’ve tasted anywhere else as well.

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Taking the last five items to go, the bulk consumed with coffee as part of a midday snack, it was only a slightly gummy salted caramel macaron that held the rest of my order back from perfection and with the almond version of the Parisian favorite light and crisp one almost wonders if the former was a one-off mistake – something I’ll no doubt have to determine at a later time when I make the drive back up to Centennial since the creamy housemade hazelnut spread filling another croissant is the sort of thing I’ll crave while the chewy oatmeal cookie and carrot-packed bundt were equally desirable, the later also available in a cake form still calling my name.

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FOUR STARS:  Long hidden in the ‘pastry department’ of several Strip-based resorts, but now ready to shine in his own regard, the work that Anthony and his team at Honey Cakes is doing not only meets but exceeds several of the city’s most highly regarded bakeries at a far more friendly pricepoint with ingredients and execution every bit as refined.

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RECOMMENDED:  Pecan Roll, Butterscotch Muffin, Apple Croissant.

VOID:  French Toast.

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TIP:  Currently offering a $15 off $30 restaurant.com certificate, those looking for a deal are well advised to check it out.

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WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.honeycakescafe.com/home.html

Honey Cakes Cafe on Urbanspoon

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Honey Cakes, Honey Cakes Cafe, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Macaroon, Nevada, Pancakes

Yardbird Southern Table & Bar [5,] Las Vegas NV

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Yardbird Southern Table & Bar

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Coffee

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Short Rib n’ Grits – 18oz Bone-In Short Rib, Nora Mill Granary Corn Grits, Charred Corn, Haricot Vert, Sweet Garlic Bordelaise

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Buttermilk Biscuits – Honey Butter, Strawberry Jam

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Maple Glazed Bacon Brioche Donuts – Bacon Bits, Butterscotch Sauce

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Cornmeal Chess Pie – Sorghum Chantilly, Caramel Sauce,  Caramel Pretzel, Popcorn

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Hickory Smoked Coffee Cake – Coffee Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce

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Apple Hand Pies – Pate Brisee, Vanilla Ice Cream and Graham Cracker Crumble

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Deep Fried Oreos – Rice Crispy Doughnut Dough Fried Oreos, Oreo Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce

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Yardbird Banana Split – Caramel Popcorn Ice Cream, Vanilla Ice Cream, Banana Brulee, Banana Curd, Chocolate Sauce

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Crunch n Munch Bread Pudding – M&M Chocolate bread Pudding, Popcorn Ice Cream, Caramel Popcorn, Pretzel

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Chocolate Chess Pie – with Chocolate Chips, Orange Blossom Ice Cream, Citrus Marmalade, Chocolate Sauce

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Red Velvet Whoopie Pie – Red Velvet Cake, Fluffy Cream Cheese Mouse, Pistachio Ice Cream, Crushed Pistachios, Raspberry Sauce

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Blue and Black Cobbler – Blueberries, Blackberries, Oat Crumble, Honey Ice Cream

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Bourbon Vanilla Milk Shake – Vanilla Ice Cream, Maker’s Mark, Gingersnaps

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Bacon Butterscotch Cake – Pecan Filling, Bourbon Ice Cream, Butterscotch Sauce

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Admittedly a fan of Yardbird, having now visited the Las Vegas location four times in its first two months of opening with another visit upcoming soon, it was on the invite of Chef Todd Harrington that I stopped in on Saturday to explore the reinvented dessert menu, and although a few of the restaurants biscuits reconfirmed my opinion that there is no better buttermilk version being served anywhere I’ve traveled while the Chef’s newly added shortribs were nothing short of falling off the bone perfection atop a mountain of charred-corn dotted grits, the star of the show was instead Vivian Chang – the woman responsible for twelve sweet selections which frequently left me dumbfounded that they weren’t the result of some old recipe from a grandma down South.

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Beginning first with brunch selections, suffice it to say that the retooled brioche donuts are a dramatic improvement on the longjohn of past and with each tender, maple-lacquered bite studded by crispy bacon the ante is further upped by a sidecar of butterscotch sauce, a gluttonous accoutrement I nonetheless found myself dipping into frequently and later adding to the buttery apple pies, one eaten by hand with the second cut up and mixed with ice cream, graham crackers, and the aforementioned caramel for one heck of a makeshift sundae.

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Continuing the morning-meal options, another re-imagined item from Todd and Vivian was presented in the form of ‘smoked’ coffee cake and although the young chef claims the moist bread is only stored in the smoker for two minutes the result is a substantial hint of hickory with chocolate chips and robust coffee ice cream adding just a bit of sweetness, a task completely unnecessary when enjoying the sorghum sweetened chess pie whose creamy texture atop an all-butter crust rivals the best I’ve experienced anywhere in Amish country or the Southeast.

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Transitioning to dinner desserts, both Yardbird’s signature Bacon Butterscotch Cake and Crunch n’ Munch Bread Pudding remain largely unchanged, the latter’s popcorn flavor scaled back a bit in order to let the dark chocolate notes better shine, but with six other desserts also available one would be hard pressed to decide which was ‘best,’ though large groups would be strongly encouraged to look into either the bubbling hot and simply delicious seasonal cobbler or rich Red Velvet Whoopie Pie as each are more than enough to share with the former currently featuring blueberries and blackberries while the silky cream cheese mousse of the whoopie pie is simply too much for even a hearty due of diners to tackle on their own…no matter how much they may wish to try.

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Decidedly not a place for ‘light’ desserts, but one where a few smaller portions can be found, chocaholics and those interested in a true Southern delicacy would be well suited to order the chocolate chess pie served with both the orange blossom ice cream and blood orange marmalade to help to balance out the cocoa’s substantial heft while those looking for something a bit more ‘fun’ should find exactly what they’re looking for in Chang’s inspired take on fried Oreos, the oft-oily ‘fair-food’ staple perfected by protecting the cookie’s texture with batter while rice crispies add texture to both the dough and as a chocolate covered topping to the ball of ice cream at the center of the plate.

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Consistently impressing with both the variety and quality of house-made ice creams it seems only logical that Chang opts to feature them in so many of the restaurant’s desserts, and rounding out the restaurant’s dozen offerings one would be well advised to consider either the upscale Banana Split or Bourbon Milk Shake to finish off their meal, the shake a drink best shared given its substantial portion even though the booze is very nicely balanced by both the vanilla ice cream and whip while the sundae is perhaps the most unexpected surprise on the menu as two types of ice cream along with banana pudding, caramel popcorn, chocolate sauce, graham crackers, and a torched banana provide a veritable ‘choose your own adventure’ of textures and flavors without a single underwhelming bite to be found.

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UNABLE TO RATE:  As the entirety of the meal was comped, with much of my time spent sitting and chatting with Chef Harrington, suffice it to say service was exemplary and with both savories as well as desserts this good played beneath a soundtrack including everything from old-school blues to Them Crooked Vultures preceding Thickfreakness-era Black Keys, Yardbird remains my favorite affordable restaurant on the Strip and a place which I recommend everyone check out for themselves.

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RECOMMENDED:  Biscuits (always,) Sorghum Chess Pie, Smoked Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake, Deep Fried Oreos, Yardbird Banana Split, Bacon Butterscotch Cake.

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AVOID:  For single diners, or even duos, the Red Velvet Whoopie pie is simply ‘too rich,’ something that could perhaps be corrected through the use of a stonefruit or citrus ice cream…or perhaps berries such as those previously utilized in Yardbird’s excellent Red Velvet Trifle.

TIP:  With a talented and passionate team headed by Chefs Harrington and Chang making everything in house, those visiting should be aware that weekly specials as well as seasonal updates are planned and as such not all items listed here are guaranteed to be offered, the cobbler and pies in particular prone to frequent change.

http://www.venetian.com/restaurants/american/yardbird.html

Yardbird Southern Table & Bar on Urbanspoon

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Yardbird, Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, Yardbird Southern Table and Bar

Postrio, Las Vegas NV

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Postrio

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Mimosa

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Double Espresso on Ice

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Fresh Pappardelle – Fennel Sausage, Bolognese, Italian Parsley

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Bucatini a la Carbonara – Pancetta, English Peas, Parmigiano Reggiano

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Breakfast Pizza – Egg, Bacon, Roasted Tomatoes, Spinach, Vermont Cheddar

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Warm Brioche Doughnuts – Vanilla, Chocolate, Raspberry

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Monkey Bread – Caramel Toffee Sauce, Cream Cheese Sauce

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Buttermilk Pancakes – Cinnamon Spiced, Vermont Maple Syrup, Blueberries, Candied Lemon

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Pear Sticky Toffee Pudding – Brown Butter Pecan Ice Cream, Spiced Pear Compote

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Cinnamon and Dark Chocolate Bread Pudding – Toasted Coconut Ice Cream

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Often overlooking Wolfgang Puck restaurants given the Chef’s general ubiquity throughout the United States it was at the recommendation of a local writer and with the assistance of Ms. Stephanie Davis of Puck’s PR that a reservation was set for brunch at Postrio, and although some of the heavily praised plates from lunch and dinner were not available at brunch while dessert, originally stated as not available was, a noon meal beneath the pseudo-sky of St. Mark’s Square at The Venetian proved mostly impressive – the disorganized service and surprisingly loud ‘Carnivale’ performers aside.

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Themed as an informal indoor patio café with a menu covering a handful of WP classics as well as several Italian plates and California-style pizzas it was with complimentary Mimosas that the meal began and offering cheers to an old friend I’d not seen in some time the menu was perused with a three course order originally requested, a fourth only added at the end of the meal when it was revealed that the work of Kamel Guechida was indeed available, an offer I simply couldn’t resist.

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Joined by an interloping indoor pigeon who was almost as entertaining as the stilt walkers and singers to our side, it was after a long delay that the man who originally served our drinks was finally ‘assigned’ our table and with the lone special of steak and eggs declined it would not be long before two half-portions of pasta arrived, the wide pappardelle soft and smooth beneath bright tomatoes teaming with aromatic sausage while the al dente round noodles slicked with egg yolk and tossed simply with peas and pork was absolutely textbook, perhaps the best version of the dish served in a resort with no shortage of Italian options from which to choose.

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Always amused by Puck’s Pizzas, at this point a prerequisite for dining at any of his restaurants, it was with brief consideration of both the mushroom iteration that we opted for the newly added breakfast pie and although I’d have preferred the egg to be served runny after the baking process the general balance of the pie was admirable, a hefty amount of sharp cheddar and bacon most detectable on first bite with the light char notes of crust and vegetal notes lingering on the palate thereafter.

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Choosing ‘one of each’ from the “Batter and Breads” section, suffice it to say that any disappointment regarding soups and sides available only at dinner were mostly forgotten and although the sticky bun was generally underwhelming both in size and in flavor while the stack of cinnamon dusted donuts was far less impressive than those served at Yardbird, the fluffy pancakes with pure maple syrup, blueberries, and candied lemon were absolutely excellent – the $13 price-tag notwithstanding.

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Acknowledging that less ‘batter’ would have been ordered had I known desserts were ready to go it was without batting an eye that two of five delectable sounding options were selected to compliment a double espresso over ice and having last experienced Chef Guechida’s work at Joel Robuchon it came as no surprise that the pastry chef’s work completely stole the afternoon’s spotlight with both the buttery brioche pudding loaded with chocolate beneath intense coconut ice cream and the pear-based sticky toffee cake with pecan studded ice cream the texture of silk absolutely mesmerizing, each elegantly presented and surprisingly restrained in a manner equally befitting the Grand Canal Shoppes or the MGM Grand’s 3* crown jewel of the Chef’s past.

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THREE STARS:  With prices similar to several of The Venetian and Palazzo’s alternative Brunch options, but portions far smaller and service that seemed disjointed throughout our stay, Postrio falls squarely in the middle of the road for on-strip upscale midday dining – the food likely familiar to those who know Wolfgang Puck while the desserts are every bit as good as one would expect from one of America’s best pastry chefs.

RECOMMENDED:  Desserts, Bucatini a la Carbonara.

AVOID:  Sticky Bun.

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TIP:  Currently offering Free Mimosas to all brunch-goers with a 20% discount available in the Grande Canal Shoppes/Fashion Show coupon book those interested in finding a deal are advise to investigate both, the later definitely softening the blow of “strip-side” pricing found up and down Las Vegas Boulevard.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3821

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Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pizza, Postrio

Grand Cafe at Red Rock, Las Vegas NV

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Grand Café Red Rock

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Sticky Bun

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Apple Fritter

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Chocolate Chip Buttermilk Pancakes

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Tableside Flambee Bananas Foster French Toast

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Kitchen Sink Cookie / Oatmeal Raisin Cookie

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Carrot Cake Bar

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Located within walking distance of my door, and visited frequently for movies as well as meals at Hearthstone, I’d admittedly not given much thought to Red Rocks Resort and Casino’s other dining options until I found out an old colleague was in town for a Bariatric Surgery conference and with her packed lecture schedule largely precluding lunch or dinner the decision was made to meet up at Grand Café for breakfast, the resulting meal anything but ‘physician approved’ but surprisingly delicious with service that outperformed nearly any of Las Vegas Boulevard’s 24/7 dining options by a country mile.

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Arriving just after 7:00am, but requiring a reprint of my Boarding Pass in order to collect on a $15 coupon, it was a few minutes later than anticipated that the two of us sat down in the large dining area overlooking an expectedly empty pool and deferring the order to me with the stipulation that we must try the pancakes a three-course meal was requested, a smiling Hispanic waitress effortlessly managing a half-dozen tables while keeping water brimming and the silver coffee pot of surprisingly balanced brew filled throughout the hour long stay.

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Starting off with two pastries, the chopped pecan topped sticky bun and house-made apple fritter both rewarmed at our request, it was much to my astonishment that Red Rocks’ in-house pastry team makes items throughout the day in order to replenish supplies and although the fritter was a touch too oily despite being jammed-packed with apples the nicely laminated bun unraveled as a textbook spiral, the exterior golden and crunchy while the interior featured a springy yeasted stretch packed with butter and cinnamon notes.

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Moving onward to entrees, the four-stack of chocolate chip studded buttermilk flapjacks taking no shortcuts and fluffy as can be despite the bargain basement price of $8.78, there was no way I was passing of the “house specialty” Bananas Foster French Toast and with an unexpected tableside show of liquor-laced caramel being lit ablaze as it was poured over thick egg-bread with whipped cream added afterward every single bite of the dish was well worth not only the $8.95 tab, but also the signature status – easily one of the best off-Strip French Toasts in town and the only one I know of that is delivered with such flair.

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Sitting, chatting, and sipping at third pot of coffee with my friend stating she couldn’t possibly eat another bite it was only here that I realized I’d not yet spent the requisite $30 to qualify for use of the coupon and leaving aside just how much of a bargain that indicates for the rest of what we ordered it also justified the purchase of a trio of desserts, the elegant carrot cake beneath crispy praline bark proving quite moist even before considering the rich cream cheese frosting while both of the cookies were admittedly quite sweet, though soft centered with a crispy rim that held up nicely for an afternoon snack later that day.

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FOUR STARS:  Using the coupon with a total bill after tax and tip ringing in at a mere $26 one would be hard pressed to name a better bargain for such a large amount of surprisingly well made food in any Southern Nevada casino and with service proving better than several places charging more than twice the price for food no better I’ve little doubt I’ll revisit Grand Café sooner rather than later, at the very least to sample some more of the extensive pastry case…though I can’t rule out another order of fiery French Toast, as well.

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RECOMMENDED:  Bananas Foster French Toast, Buttermilk Pancakes, Sticky Bun.

AVOID:  Apple Fritter, as there are simply better versions available elsewhere at less than the $1.25 cost.

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TIP:  Open 24/7, with everything but the Prime Rib and a few specials offered throughout the day and night, those looking for a bargain are encouraged to keep an eye on local mailers and papers, the $15 off $30 easily enough to feed a family of four for less than $20 if ordering right.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

https://redrock.sclv.com/Dining/Grand-Cafe.aspx

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Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Grand Cafe, Grand Cafe at Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes

The Pig, Chapel Hill NC

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The Pig

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Hand Cut Pimento Cheese Fries with Cheek Bacon

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All Dark Meat Fried Chicken with Pickles, Hush Puppies, and Slaw

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Hickory Smoked Whole-Hog BBQ, Roughly Chopped and seasoned by Cider Vinegar Sauce with Pickles, Hush Puppies, and Slaw

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Sweet Potato Bread Pudding

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Banana Pudding

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Targeted as our final meal in the state of North Carolina, a post-game destination after watching Roy Williams run the 4-Corners in honor of Dean Smith against Wake Forrest in the dome bearing his legendary name, it was just moments prior to 3:00pm that we entered The Pig and with a sign at the door proudly promoting the use of locally-raised hormone and antibiotic-free pork the barbeque that followed was the very definition of ‘saving the best for last.’

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Perhaps a bit more hip and trendy than traditionalists looking for a spot like Ole Time or Allen & Son would prefer, but at the same time offering all the essentials plus some whimsical specials in a space far less commercial than The Pit, it was only after standing back perusing the laminated menu and chalkboards that an order was placed, the $45 tab after tax and tip speaking to higher ingredient quality while the décor was mostly wood, tile, and Formica with a few swine-centric ornaments strewn about.

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Waiting only ten minutes while a few more parties sporting Tar Heel Blue filed in, it was with both appetizers and mains served simultaneously that we sat impressed by the portions and uncertain of where to start a mixed tasting would ensue, first bites of the crispy hand-cut potatoes beneath spicy pimento cheese and briny cheek bacon proving far better than later bites after the oil set in while both the slaw and hushpuppies were as good as we found during our trip, the later rich with herbs beneath a particularly crisp shell.

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Focusing next on the “Carolina Classics,” though here served as separate plates as opposed to in combo form, the question of whether the brined bird or cracklin’ studded pork was better is truly a matter of taste because no matter how you rate it they both were reference standard, the former just short of Beasley’s for best in The Triangle while the later was even more succulent than that at Ayden’s Skylight Inn, a tremendous amount of smoke proving an adept balance acid and salt.

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Not exactly a spot for sweets, but trying far harder than many mom n’ pop houses of ‘cue, it was a menu of four specials that we were left to navigate and with the banana pudding an obvious choice my personal preferences also saw a bowl of steamy bread pudding arrive alongside, the former nothing to write home about compared to those at Mandolin, The Pit, or others while the sweet potato pie-meets-flan concoction was surprisingly mild, the tuber’s natural starches providing most of the flavor alongside milky tones with whipped cream added for sweetness as well as to lighten the load, each bite still stick-a-spoon-up-straight thick.

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Posted in Bread Pudding, Chapel Hill, Dessert, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, The Pig, Vacation

Neal’s Deli, Carrboro NC

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Neal’s Deli

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Buttered Biscuit with Jam

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Pimento Cheese and Bacon Biscuit

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Dark Chocolate Walnut Brownie

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The third stop on a morning breakfast run that had already seen beguiling biscuits at Sunrise and woeful disappointment at Ye Olde Waffle Shoppe, Neal’s Deli was recommended by a well-traveled gourmand as a ‘can’t miss’ place for upscale deli cuisine and arriving to find every seat filled and a line two-deep surrounding the counter I nearly walked out for simple lack of a place to stand, a man at the window-side bar fortuitously getting up just as I entered graciously offering me the stool on which he’d just sat.

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Using my coat to mark my space, and getting in a line of eight that moved surprisingly fast, it was with Take-Out menu in hand that decisions were made and although both soups and pastrami seemed to be selling like hotcakes it was once again in biscuits that I’d invest – the buttermilk batter just entering the oven as I sat down to enjoy a plastic wrapped brownie chewy with dark chocolate and punctuated with slightly bitter nuts.

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Slightly prolonged in my wait, but likely to benefit from biscuits served hot and fresh, it was with an elderly local that I struck up some chat and told that I’d made ‘the best choice’ in ordering the pimento cheese and bacon biscuit his words soon rang true moments after the man behind the counter called out my name – the fluffy golden crumb tinged with buttermilk proving quite nice with simple strawberry jam but finding a substantial upgrade when sandwiching spicy cheddar spread and crisp bacon that didn’t seem particularly ‘Jewish Deli,’ but was delicious just the same.

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Posted in Breakfast, Carrboro, Chapel Hill, Dessert, Durham, Food, Neal's Deli, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, Vacation

Ye Olde Waffle Shoppe, Chapel Hill NC

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Ye Olde Waffle Shoppe

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World’s Worst Coffee

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Buttermilk Biscuit

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Pecan Waffle

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M&M Pancakes

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Considered to be a Chapel Hill institution, particularly on days before the Tar Heels take the court, it was around 8:30am that we located parking in front of Ye Olde Waffle Shoppe and entering to find a ‘thirty minute or so…’ line snaked along the left wall it was with high expectations that we stood, the smiles of several co-eds and alumni portending good things…or at least so it seemed.

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Unabashedly crowded, the sort of place that would seem busy even if it were only half-full due to the shotgun narrow space set alongside the kitchen, waffle irons, griddle, dish washers and it was unfortunately the later that assaulted our nostrils as we approached the front of the line, and frankly becoming nauseated from the smell of Cascade and chlorine as we waited it almost enough to make me leave – any seat juxtaposing the area absolutely unacceptable, though we would thankfully soon be sat in the back-room where a questionably competent young server attempted to man far more tables than should have been allotted to one person.

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Thankfully expedited in prep, the line cooks clearly well attuned to the need for turning tables, it was less than ten minutes after ordering that plates were delivered and having already given up on luke-warm, acrid coffee that rivals the worst found anywhere our attention turned to the food, the biscuits seemingly cut out of a tube from Pillsbury, while two batters fared only slightly superior, the ‘whipped spread’ and Log Cabin doing little to raise the stakes.

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Truly a disappointment, one part the effect of hype and the other a simple lack of quality product, suffice it to say that the Ye Olde Waffle Shoppe’s eponymous item was a ‘best available’ sort of experience though opting for the pecan upcharge was insulting at best, the pieces supposedly within the batter but entirely imperceptible while the candy in the pancakes was par for the course – a touch color and cocoa added to the doughy, bland base.

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http://www.yeoldewaffleshoppe.com/

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Posted in Breakfast, Chapel Hill, Coffee, Dessert, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Pancakes, Raleigh, Vacation, Waffles, Ye Olde Waffle Shoppe

Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen, Chapel Hill NC

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Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen

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Fried Chicken Biscuit

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Virginia Ham Biscuit

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Buttered Biscuit

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Cinnamon Roll

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Beginning our last day in Raleigh-Durham with a long outdoor run on freshly thawed streets it was after a quick shower followed by packing that we pointed the GPS towards Chapel Hill, a noon date at The Dean Dome to be preceded by a three-part breakfast beginning at the drive-thru and walk-up only stand considered by some to offer the best buttermilk biscuits in the land.

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Titled Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen and every bit the sort of mom n’ pop operation that needs to be seen in order to be fully understood, it was just a few minutes after 7 o’clock that we turned right off East Franklin Street and queuing up behind a few cars it would not be long before the line snaked out into the street, most wise locals opting to park and take the walk-up route only discovered by tourists like ourselves after procuring a bag of hot biscuits and looking for somewhere to stop and nosh.

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Undoubtedly a space happy to ‘do one thing, and do it well’ it was with little hesitation that our four part order was crafted and beginning with a simple buttered biscuit topped with a sidecar of honey the rumors of greatness were immediately confirmed, the light salinity of a golden top giving way to the fluffy interior of an unthinkably light buttermilk round.

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Opting next to indulge in two sandwiches, the sliced biscuits themselves standing up admirably to toppings despite the loosely-packed crumb, suffice it to say that although the chicken was good it was the briny seared ham that really impressed…though not quite as much as the frosting topped biscuit dough snailed around butter and cinnamon that is thus far the best $1.25 I’ve spent all year.

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Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Chapel Hill, Dessert, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen, Vacation

Mandolin, Raleigh NC

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Mandolin

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Herbal Fixer – Lemon, Lime, Orange, Ginger, Cinnamon

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Dinner Roll and Corn Muffin with Honey Butter

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Housemade Pork and Duck Sausage with Fennel Orange Marmalade and Grilled Bread

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Confit Duck Leg-Frisee Salad – Beets, Blue Cheese, Bacon, Grilled Bread, Sherry Vinaigrette

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Chicken & Waffles – Fried Ashley Farms Chicken Breast, Buckwheat Waffles, Braised Greens, Sautéed Mushrooms, Bacon–Mushroom Emulsion, Truffle Honey

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Pan Seared Duck Breast – Dirty Farro, Squash, Apricot, Kale, Black Trumpet Mushrooms

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Simply Divine Caramel Cake – Buttermilk Ice Cream

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Southern Banana Pudding – Vanilla Pudding, House Made Vanilla Wafers, Chantilly Cream

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Carrot Cake – Carrots, Cream Cheese Mousse, Pistachio, Ginger, Carrot Sorbet

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Owned and operated by Sean Fowler, a Raleigh native whose pedigree includes stints at New York’s Le Bernadin and Fearrington House, where we had enjoyed dinner the night before, it was minutes early for a 7:00pm reservation that we arrived at Mandolin and dropping my mother off at the door before allocating parking behind the restaurant she was already seated at a plush four-top when I walked-in, the dining room surprisingly sparse for a Friday night but soon to fill to perhaps 75% capacity with a crowd of locals enjoying relief from a week of ice and snow.

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Lowly lit and decorated in blonde wood with black and white photos, jars of pickles, and the restaurant’s eponymous instrument filling space on walls and shelves it was with light music playing overhead and light gleaming from the kitchen that our server approached and describing the restaurant’s “refined Southern” style with focus on local protein and produce selected daily by the Chefs it was with two shared specialties described that we were left to decide, a hand mixed herbal cocktail of bright citrus and spice soon delivered over a whole lot of crushed ice.

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Sensing our ‘first time visitor’ status and offering recommendations based on classics as well as dishes he felt to show the seasonal menu best it was eventually a three-course meal that was ordered, the first arriving alongside bread service that featured the city’s best cornbread and house-churned honey butter that immediately necessitated a second round, the soft dinner roll held over and later used to sop up bacon-imbued sauce.

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Featuring a surprisingly large amount of duck, no less than four plates featuring the farm-raised fowl sourced from a farm ‘just up the road,’ round one of the menu featured two sizable portions of protein and with the saporous sausage finding plenty of balance in aromatic, chunky marmalade alongside toasty blackened bread the salad was even more impressive, a large and crisp leg of confit duck served over greens, several varieties of beets, winter citrus, and blue cheese all melded by a light splash of acidic vinaigrette.

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Admittedly surprised by the portions considering the relatively low prices for such a ‘fine-dining’ space it was after a somewhat lengthy delay that mains would arrive and targeting two more plates of bird one would be hard pressed to levy a single complaint against either, the lightly seared duck rich and fatty atop the liver infused grains while the Chef’s signature chicken was well brined and impeccably crisp with naturally truffled honey adding just a touch of sweetness to the otherwise strongly savory accoutrements.

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Unable and unwilling to pass on dessert, particularly with a menu featuring two personal favorites, it was again after a bit of respite that a trio arrived and paired with a much needed double-espresso over ice it was only the overworked carrot cake which was far too potent with ginger that failed to shine, the mason jar of banana pudding as light as a feather with crisp cookies juxtaposing Chantilly while the Caramel Cake and tangy ice cream more than lived up to its description as “divine.”

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http://mandolinraleigh.com

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Posted in Bread Basket, Chapel Hill, Cornbread, Dessert, Durham, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Mandolin, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, Vacation, Waffles

Ole Time Barbecue, Raleigh NC

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Ole Time Barbecue

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Chicken Pastry

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Hush Puppies

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Chopped Pork, Fried Chicken, Mac & Cheese, Coleslaw

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Banana Pudding

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Taking a ‘cue break to visit a few museums and stores in downtown Raleigh it was back to the plan that we leapt, and finally finding Ole Time Barbecue open after several down days due to the weather it was just after 5:15 that we stood outside the window watching the lone chef chop, chop, and chop some more pork before heading inside where an overhead stereo played an eclectic blend of classic rock and expected country while service offered Southern-charm at its best.

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Every bit as rustic as the exterior would have one guess, yet at the same time virtually spotless without a speck of dirt to be seen amidst the various knick-knacks dotting the décor, it was mere moments after taking a seat that the restaurant’s lone waitress dropped off menus and with water glasses soon filled it was before an order was even placed that a big basket of golden hushpuppies arrived, each oblong nugget pillowy soft and delicious on its own, but even better with some fiery Ole Time Hot Sauce.

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At this point having already dined on chopped swine alongside fried chicken twice that day, and still with one more meal to go, it was a foregone conclusion that a shared combination plate would constitute the bulk of our order and offered the option of eating ‘right away’ or waiting for the next batch to be fresh chopped the answer was obvious, a bowl of dumplings in rich gravy entitled ‘chicken pasty’ enjoyed as we waited, along with the rest of the fried dough.

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At this point enjoying the interplay between waitress and no less than a dozen regulars who stopped in to procure ‘cue to-go on their way home it was perhaps twenty minutes before our entrée arrived and with the pork absolutely steaming with light notes of acidity juxtaposing briny bits of skin it can only be said the chicken was even better, a robust crunch overlying each juicy bite while sides of macaroni and sweet slaw were no less impressive, the former particularly impressive with al dente noodles far more impressive than those at competing houses of Carolina-style ‘cue.

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Unquestionably impressed by savories it was to a limited selection of sweets that the meal would conclude, and told that the Banana Pudding was “nothing fancy, just real good’ a small Styrofoam bowl was delivered straight from refrigerator mere minutes later; the composition of homemade pudding, overripe bananas, and soggy ‘Nilla wafers without any unnecessary whipped cream instantly proving our server’s words to be true.

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http://www.oletimebarbecue.com

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Posted in Bread Basket, Chapel Hill, Dessert, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Ole Time Barbecue, Pork, Raleigh, Vacation

The Pit, Raleigh NC

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The Pit

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Seasonal Skillet Cornbread – served with home-made butter

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BBQ Soul Rolls- chopped pork BBQ, cabbage collards and candied carrots served with Oak Island sauce and pepper jelly

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Carolina Classic Combo – pork chopped BBQ and fried chicken, Brunswick Stew, Mac & Cheese, Biscuit, Hush Puppies

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Banana Pudding – Creamy vanilla pudding layered with bananas, wafers, marshmallow fluff and meringue

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Carrot Cake – With candied pecans and molasses cream cheese frosting

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Without a doubt the most upscale – or dare I say ‘commercial’ – barbeque spot investigated during the trip to The Triangle, it was in the peak of lunch hour that we entered The Pit and finding only a few two-tops available we luckily nabbed one, the decision to valet leading to a long wait for the car after the meal but preventing standing around the hostess podium like so many others arriving mere moments after we entered the surprisingly sizable space.

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Unfortunately the sort of place where servers pronounce everything as “good,” “awesome,” or “great choice” with the sort of fervor that makes you wonder if a caffeinated pep-rally is part of the pre-shift routine, suffice it to say that the scene within The Pit is of the energetic variety and with loud music, close seating, plus cold beer bringing voices up at least a few more decibels one only wishes that the owners had put as much thought into providing a comfortable dining environment as they did into the décor.

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Eventually navigating the outsized menu, some very traditional plates alongside odds n’ ends that seemed willing to take chances without entirely ‘jumping the shark,’ it was in two appetizers along with a shared Combo that we invested, our drinks refilled frequently as sat unintentionally eavesdropping on the conversations around us with servers buzzing around the room.

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Waiting just fifteen minutes, the kitchen sending out items at a breakneck pace, it was to a sizeable duo of apps that the meal began and although the signature ‘soul rolls’ proved surprisingly well balanced with meat and sweet juxtaposing bitter greens it was the scorching hot skillet of cornbread that silently stole the show, a sizeable chunk sopping with butter that just as easily could have served as dessert, though considering what would follow it was just as well served right where it was as it would have been a shame to skimp on actual sweets at the end.

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Amused by the definition of “Carolina Classic Combo” as the plate was served with chopped pork, fried chicken, and two Southern sides it was just as the soul rolls were finished that our sizeable shared plate arrived and served with unlimited biscuits, hushpuppies, honey and jam the $10.59 plate is perhaps the best deal in the land, the crispy chicken and supple pork both amongst the best in the area while all but the runny Brunswick stew was also quite delicious, the aforementioned cornbread the only thing holding me back from ordering a third round of biscuits and fried nuggets of bread.

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Unwilling to eschew dessert, or more appropriately barely able to resist ordering all four, it was undoubtedly a shock when two more enormous plates arrived just ten minutes later and priced at just six bucks each one would be hard to decide which was better, the all-natural banana pudding soft and sweet beneath a mountain of ethereal meringue while the dense, moist carrot cake’s spice profile received a significant upgrade from toasty roast nuts and molasses-kissed cream cheese.

http://www.thepit-raleigh.com

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Posted in Bread Basket, Chapel Hill, Cornbread, Dessert, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, The Pit, Vacation

Clyde Cooper’s BBQ, Raleigh NC

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Clyde Cooper’s BBQ

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Hush Puppies and Pig Skins

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Fried Chicken, Chopped Pork, Cole Slaw, Brunswick Stew

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Banana Pudding

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Carrot Cake

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Taking a break after breakfast to visit a few local museums it was just after 10:30am that a three-part barbecue tour began, and making up for time lost due to weather earlier in the week the first stop was at Clyde Cooper’s BBQ, the Raleigh landmark garnering mixed reviews since relocating to a larger downtown venue, though if what we experienced was somehow less impressive than that which was offered in the past I can only imagine the ‘old’ Cooper’s was truly something to behold.

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Really only moved around the corner from its original location, the former spot serving up slow cooked pork shoulders for over 75 years, our sleepy-eyed waiter explained to us that much of the interior had been relocated to the new two-story space and with old photographs, wood booths, and plenty of southern charm to be found while service moved at a deliberate but leisurely pace one would be hard pressed to find anything for lack throughout our forty-five minute stay, even the folk and country soundtrack playing at a volume just right.

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Every bit the bargain of many other North Carolina ‘cue houses, the menu well-culled but not limited in the least, it was on a complimentary basket of thick pork-rinds and light hushpuppies that we noshed as we waited and with the face slowly filling with business-lunchers it was just as the place was getting lively that our shared plate of Carolina Classics arrived, the chopped pork tender with texture added by glistening skin while the chicken trended just a bit oily for white meat, though certainly not unexpectedly so for a bird so well brined and crisply double-fried.

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Equally impressed by the snappy sweet slaw and Brunswick stew chock-a-block full of legumes and okra amidst the savory tomato base, there was little doubt that dessert would be ordered as soon as I saw the options and although the carrot cake proved a bit too dry to be enjoyed despite rich cream cheese icing the banana pudding was everything I’d come to expect from such a rustic operation, the ‘nilla wafers soft and spongy, the flavors just a bit too sugary, and the bananas a touch over-ripe – in other words ‘textbook,’ just like the chicken, stew, and ‘cue.

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Posted in Bread Basket, Chapel Hill, Clyde Cooper’s Barbeque, Clyde Cooper’s BBQ, Dessert, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, Vacation

lucettegrace, Raleigh NC

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lucettegrace

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Larry’s Coffee

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BBQ Breakfast Cake – Eastern Q, Pimento Cheese

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Dixie Cannonball – Cheddar, Sausage, Scallion, Sausage Gravy Center

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Kouign Amann

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Bourbon Pecan Pie Croissant

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Chocolate Caramel Nut Tart – Orange Cocoa Nib Caramel, Walnuts, Pistachios, Cashews, Almonds

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Coconut Cream Pie Choux Puff – Coconut Cake, Milk Chocolate Mousse

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Carrot Cake Verrine – Cream Cheese Mousse, Spiced Pecans, Chai Cream, Cranberry

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Recently opened in downtown Raleigh, and well praised by locals for its whimsical take on Southern cuisine reinterpreted through French Pastry, there was almost no doubt that lucettegrace was a place prone to impress and arriving early on Friday morning to find the brightly lit space almost empty while two young ladies behind the counter sang the praises of nearly everything offered it was eventually on seven items that our order settled, the $40 tariff after tax and tip admittedly steep but entirely justified by the goods.

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Industrial-chic in design, with Edison bulbs and stools around high-tops plus a few heavy wood tables with actual seats, it was with items plated per our requests that dishes were carried to one of the later and able to watch the bakers work through a glass window as we indulged it seemed as though the large display up front was only a fraction of the team’s plan for the day – brass canele molds, items appearing to be sheet cakes, and several other semi-constructed desserts being created before our eyes.

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Beginning first with savories, incidentally 2/3 of the items served warm, it can only be said that those interested in South’s culinary traditions are likely to be shocked while at the same time amused; the BBQ Breakfast Cake a dense cornmeal muffin packed with everything good about Carolina ‘cue and pimento cheese while the Dixie Cannonball harkened the technique of the egg centered chive biscuit at Craftsman + Wolves with warm sausage gravy turning the buttermilk shell into more delicious mess with each and every bite.

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Largely underwhelmed by a Kouign Amann that was oversalted and flaccid it was with a second cup of Larry’s excellent coffee clearing the palate that the program got back on track and with a double baked shell that liberated boozy pureed pie filling upon shattering to the tooth I instantly wished we’d have visited lucettegrace earlier in the week – a thought furthered by the perfect puff of choux surrounding coconut cream and milk chocolate, as well as by the sweet meets salty nut tart and aromatic cylinder of cake amidst pudding that made me wonder why I’d not previously associated the spices of chai with carrot cake, nor why others had not tried cranberry where raisins have for so long stood.

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Posted in Breakfast, Chapel Hill, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Durham, Food, lucettegrace, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, Vacation

Fearrington House Restaurant, Pittsboro NC

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Fearrington House Restaurant

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Royal Tokaji, Mad Cuvee, Late Harvest 2010

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Lamb Terrine with Apricot and Pickled Elderberry

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Porcini Meringue atop Black Mushroom Cake, Cured Egg Yolk

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“Shrimp n’ Grits” – Crustacean Sausage, Grit Chips, Citrus Aioli

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Sweet Cream unsalted and Salted Cow’s Butter from Vermont Creamery.  Dinner Roll, Whole Wheat Rosemary Focaccia, Corn Muffin, Baguette

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Salad of Cauliflower & Romanesco with Fearrington Honey & Whipped Brie, Yogurt, Pistachio, Wheat Berries

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Cream of Mushroom Soup with Confit Abalone Mushrooms & Sherry, Maple, Parmesan, Truffle, Brussel Sprout

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Heritage Farms Pork with Smoked Grits & Madeira, Prunes, Cipollini, Kohlrabi, Thyme

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Maple Glazed Seared Foie Gras with Salt Roasted Apple & Sherry Panna Cotta, Ginger, Muscat, Pecan, Celery

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Guinea Hen with Housecured Bacon and Red Wine & Thyme, Onion, King Oyster Mushrooms, Mustard, Savoy Cabbage

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Venison with Braised Endive & Horn Of Plenty Mushrooms, Juniper, Smoked Bacon, Chestnuts, Celery Root

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“Hot Toddy” – Rum Gelee, Spice Cake

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Pumpkin Spiced Cake with Crème Fraiche Sorbet & Oatmeal Crumble, Orange, Brown Sugar, Meringue, Poppy Seed

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Valrhona Cœur de Guanaja Chocolate Soufflé, Hot Chocolate Sauce, Whipped Cream

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Salted Butter Caramel, Honey Nougat, Mint Milk Chocolate Ganache, Vanilla Poached Strawberry Jam

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The only Relais & Chateaux property in the area, and considered by some to be North Carolina’s best formal fine dining experience, our arrival at Fearrington House Restaurant in the quaint little area of Fearrington Village sparked immediate memories of several similar properties from The Inn At Little Washington to Langdon Hall in Cambridge Ontario and arriving to find the small town’s shops closed by 6 o’clock with the illuminated restaurant seated at the end of a long, snowy path a slow pace was taken with a roaring fire and near-empty dining room greeting us after what felt like one hundred careful steps.

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Every bit the rarified space, all white tablecloths and decorations harkening an auberge in the French Countryside, it was admittedly a bit strange when we entered the expansive old home to find no hostess at the podium but soon greeted by the maitre d’ it was to our choice of tables we were offered, a large two-top easily large enough to seat four in the flower-adorned room up front dividing us from the restaurant’s lone large party who appeared to be having a whole lot of fun in some far off room.

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Presented with menus and an expansive wine list that seemed extremely modest in price compared to bottles back home it was after a somewhat prolonged delay that the young lady who would eventually be our server arrived tableside but aside from the excessive formalities of “my pleasure” and “perfect” everything the service was admittedly top tier, each plate delivered with perfect timing so that guests never felt rushed while descriptions of ingredients, techniques, and sourcing were all presented as though recited by the chef himself.

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Toqued by Colin Bedford, a 36 year old Grand Chef who has maintained Fearrington House’s Forbes’ Five Diamond Award since taking over at the age of just thirty, the Restaurant’s theme is described best as “Sophisticated Southern” and featuring items both locally sourced as well as exotic the young British Chef’s skills are obvious from the moment food starts arriving, the opening volley of lamb terrine, shrimp sausage, and a defiantly earthy mushroom crisp all proving exquisite while house baked bread and creamy butter from Vermont were the sort of thing that tested our restraint, though the toothsome cornbread muffins were unapologetically used to wipe clean many plates.

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Onward to proper courses, four plates selected by us each, it was diverting from tradition that I selected a salad to begin but with whipped Brie and yogurt proving a beautiful backdrop to locally grown romanesco and cauliflower the flavors and textures were outstanding while my mother’s veloute with a crispy ball of molten mushrooms tinged in maple was even more memorable as aromatic notes of black truffle tickled the palate in an ever so mild way.

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Progressing to second courses, a bargain glass of Tokaji joining along the way, it was with little hesitation that the duck liver was selected by myself and with a caramelized sear overlying the supple center it was only something as unexpectedly delicious as the sweet-meets-savory panna cotta that could steal the show, each bite not only memorable but amongst the best of a nine day trip, my mother’s roasted pork beneath creamy grits also quite tasty but the unfortunate victim of being the table’s ‘other’ dish.

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Left to make tough choices for entrees, a lot of seasonal game with locally sourced fish to be considered as well, it was eventually in the former that we entrusted the kitchen and standing up to wander the house a viewing window to the kitchen was discovered, the large pane allowing us to watch the team prepare Guinea Hen and Wild Venison only marred by a piece of braised endive that was far too bitter and easily cast aside while both proteins were expertly prepared allowing their robust flavors to shine while reining them in with pungent and earthy aromatics.

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Widely celebrated for their soufflé, it was after a deconstructed Hot Toddy that proved both boozy and buttery that the ethereal chocolate tower arrived, and bursting forth over top of the large ramekin the restaurant’s signature dish was every bit worthy its high praise, each soft bite complimented by light cream and dark chocolate sauce while the alternative of pumpkin cake proved far more subtle, the flavor somewhat akin to really moist zucchini bread with no lack of contrasting texture to be found.

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Rounding out the evening with a brief tour of the house followed by a trio of treats and a jar of strawberry Jam I’ve yet to use, but have planned for some really good bread, it was to coats warmed by the hearth that we were met at The Fearrington House door, and again making the slow walk up a snowy path with only the sounds of crunching ice and snow to be heard there was little doubt in either of our minds that this was an experience worth the expense.

http://www.fearrington.com/fearrington-house-restaurant/

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Posted in Bread Basket, Chapel Hill, Cornbread, Dessert, Durham, Fearrington House Restaurant, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, North Carolina, Pittsboro, Pork, Raleigh, Souffle, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation

Crook’s Corner, Chapel Hill NC

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Crook’s Corner

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JALAPENO-CHEDDAR HUSHPUPPIES w/ cocktail sauce

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HOPPIN’ JOHN – a bed of rice & black-eye peas flavored w/ bacon, topped w/ tomato, scallions & cheddar cheese

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SHRIMP & GRITS – shrimp sautéed w/ bacon, mushrooms & scallions & served over cheese grits

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Black Pepper Cornbread

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GOOD BANANA PUDDING w/ meringue

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Unable to resist a visit to a Beard Award recognized America’s Classic, no matter how aggressive the days dining plan, it was mere minutes after opening that we crossed the cusp of Crook’s Corner and greeted by a pleasant older man who would later turn out to be our waiter it was at a cozy two top in the retro-style cafe that we soon found ourselves sat, the days specials quickly highlighted though there was little doubt that the order would be focused on the iconic space’s classic plates.

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Long heralded for its influence on Southern Comfort Food, and said by some to have conjured up the very idea of pairing shrimp with grits under the toque of Bill Neal, the small café at the corner of Merritt Mill and Franklin is now helmed by native North Carolinian Bill Smith and sourcing everything from the ingredients to the art on the walls locally it would be difficult to say there is a more ‘quintessential’ restaurant in all of Chapel Hill.

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Full of Southern Hospitality, both waiters and bussers all “Sir, Ma’am, P’s and Q’s,” it was not long after seating that water was filled and drinks were offered but short on time due to a later dinner reservation the later was declined, an order of two appetizers, an entrée, as well as a side soon ordered and requested to be delivered all at once.

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Every bit the lively space, nearly every table talking loudly with broad smiles as light music played overhead, it was just as the dining room reached 75% capacity that our meal arrived and with portions quite modest considering the size of the celebrated entrée while appetizers proved a much better value it can only be said that both the dry-as-dust cornbread and small shrimp and watery grits were a major letdown, the golden fitters and hoppin’ john far more appealing with the later offering a complex balance of nutty black eyed peas juxtaposing briny pork while crisp vegetables added levity to slowly melting cheese.

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Still a bit miffed about both the price and quality of the shrimp and grits, but willing to give the sweets a chance to shine, it was with a few puppies as well as the rest of the chickpeas and rice boxed to go that Banana Pudding was ordered and with ripe bananas amidst a sweet custard base the bowl was indeed “good,” the cloud of meringue and lack of soggy wafers actually bordering on great.

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Posted in Chapel Hill, Cornbread, Crook's Corner, Dessert, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, Vacation

Dame’s Chicken + Waffles, Durham NC

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Dame’s Chicken + Waffles

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Light Brown Leghorns – Four chicken legs, a Classic waffle drizzled w/ Caramel & Cashews, Chocolate Hazelnut Shmear

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A Quilted Buttercup – A Chicken cutlet “sandwiched” b/w two petite Sweet Potato Waffles w/ Maple-Pecan Shmear

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Triple Cheese & Macaroni

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Smooth Southern Grits

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Schlepping back to the snowy streets of downtown Durham, the suburbs surprisingly more well maintained than those of the city, it was nearing the end of the lunch hour rush that we entered Dame’s and with Red Velvet Cupcakes as well as the daily special waffle already sold out it was it was in the chilly front foyer that we sat and began to color, some funky triangular crayons with names like “duck yellow” amusing the inner child while our towering, bald waiter milled about serving large platters of food to tables ranging from 2-tops to those containing eight.

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Recently renovating the menu, with images of jazz legends and icons like Ali and Gandhi decorating the space, it was after a brief delay that water and lemonade were delivered, a two plate order with included sides expedited as the dining room began to clear out with the din subsiding to reveal an overhead soundtrack of everything from old school rap to Delta Blues.

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Celebrated for their combinations of chicken and waffles, as well as housemade trimmings and sides, it was almost without hesitation that both my mother and I spotted our desired dishes and although the days dining was already substantial with two more meals to go the plates at Dane’s each proved well crafted if not particularly ‘wowing,’ both dark and white meat juicy beneath crisp batter while waffles were soft and supple, the buttery grits and luke-warm mac’ each plenty savory to offset the decidedly sweet ‘shmears.’

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Welcome to Dame’s Chicken and Waffles

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Posted in Chapel Hill, Dame’s, Dame’s Chicken + Waffles, Dame’s Chicken and Waffles, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Raleigh, Vacation, Waffles

Backyard BBQ Pit, Durham NC

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Backyard BBQ Pit

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Half Pork / Half Turkey – Sweet Yams, Mac ‘n Cheese, Hush Puppies

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Taking a break from breakfast to tour Cameron Indoor just a day after Duke’s dramatic win over UNC it was onward to the first of two lunches that the dining adventure progressed and arriving just after 1:00pm to a space where the writing is literally ‘on the walls’ it was clear that the folks of Durham had missed their ‘cue during the previous weather related two-day closure, nearly every seat in Backyard BBQ Pit filled with a small line just barely ending inside the doors.

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Undoubtedly a place where the food is more motivating that the décor, a discolored ceiling and tube lighting overseeing Formica tables that proved tightly spaced and rickety at best, it was with my mother waiting out a table that she had to clean off herself that I entered the quickly moving queue and soon standing at the counter it was with $13.99 paid that a “2 Meat and 2 Sides” tray was assembled, the pork an obvious choice while the turkey was promoted by the man beyond the counter as ‘out of sight.’

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Featuring plating and utensils as upscale as one would expect from the steamy, sharpie-stained space it was no less than a few minutes after settling the tab that first bites were taken and although the pork at first seemed a bit too heavily vinegared subsequent bites revealed themselves as more balanced with even a bit of smoke peaking through at times, though certainly not as much as was the case with the surprisingly moist turkey that easily stole the show as neither sides nor the cornbread nuggets were particularly memorable save for the fact that the yams were essentially inedible amidst all the sweet glaze.

http://www.sweetribs.com

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Posted in Backyard BBQ Pit, Chapel Hill, Durham, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Raleigh, Vacation