June 6, 2012
6:00 AM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Bouchon Bakery Rockefeller[2] and ‘inoteca, New York NY

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

Bouchon Bakery Rockefeller

Toasted Pistachio Scone with White Chocolate and Cinnamon

Caramel Cream Puff with Vanilla Bean Custard and Chantilly

The Elvis with Banana Mousse, Devils Food Cake, Peanut Crispy, Toasted Marshmallow

‘inoteca

Three Two Three – Rosemary Infused Hendrick’s Gin, Fresh Fruit, Basil, Reduced Balsamic Vinegar, Freshly Squeezed Lemon Juice

Walnut, Ricotta, Fig-Mascarpone

Truffled Egg Toast with Bottarga

Cinnamon Peach Bread Pudding with Raspberry Coulis, Raspberry, and Crème Chantilly

New York, June 2012, was one of those things that HAD to happen and due to fortunate circumstances it did, albeit on very short notice, when the Los Angeles Kings made the Stanley Cup finals. Fast on the heels of a 9 day trek through DC, Baltimore, and Philadelphia I found myself in New York for just about 72 hours to fulfill a lifelong dream of seeing the Kings in the finals and although they would face their only road loss of the year at the game I attended at The Prudential Center they would end up lifting Lord Stanley’s cup only a few days later…and of course while in New York I ate quite well making 14 stops for food, coffee, and pastry – the first of those stops being Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery at Rockefeller.

Needing little introduction and documented heavily here it goes without saying that service was superb and although prices are expectedly high so was the quality. Selecting only options new or novel to me this visit proved once again that Keller’s team crosses boundaries in technique and the results shine; particularly in the case of that extraordinary cream puff with the delicate choux shattering to the tooth as the center oozed custard topped with light whipped cream – the expected effect – and then surprised with a thick ribbon of salted caramel coursing the base. Sure the scone was textbook and the “Elvis” every bit as good as its constituents make it sound, but that Cream Puff still haunts me.

With lunch at the Modern Dining Room past (another post, another time) and Blue Hill at Stone Barns yet to come an unexpected rainstorm left me diving for cover near my friend’s apartment – a dive into something not at all “divey” in the form of ‘inoteca – a spot I’d always wanted to visit but one that for some reason never made the final cut until serendipity intervened, sitting me in front of the large bar where a friendly young fellow named David served me an excellent cocktail, three slices of bruschetta, and two outstanding dishes; one savory and the other sweet.

Beginning first with the savory, much has been written about ‘ino’s Truffled Egg Toast with Bottarga and I’m happy to say all of it is true – the thick brioche more than capable of standing up to the rich egg and cheese topping while a hefty nose of truffles perfumed the palate and rich bottarga added its characteristic brine as snappy fresh asparagus provided a bit of texture and a much needed vegetal tinge to the otherwise rich dish.

Having never intended to order dessert given the rest of the night’s eating agenda it was with reluctance that I even looked the menu yet as soon as I did so I knew I was in trouble – that same luscious bread soaked in cinnamon peach custard and topped with fresh raspberries, a bit of mint, and lightly sweetened crème Chantilly – the third of three rich and carb laden dishes and although not quite as balanced and beautiful as the Egg Toast every bit as delicious; more than enough reason to return to ‘inoteca at a later date…though given the heft of the food (and my lack of control when it comes to eggs and bread pudding) probably not before a four hour meal at Blue Hill at Stone Barns.

Posted in Bouchon Bakery, Bread Pudding, Dessert, Food, lost meals, New York, Truffle, Vacation

May 26, 2012
6:14 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Vetri [2], Philadelphia PA

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

Vetri

Proseco

Canapes – Balsamic Soaked apples, Herbed vegetable torte, House made chorizo, Black pepper salumi, Foie gras pastrami with coriander and black pepper fennel moustarda over brioche

Crudites – Fennel, Zucchini, Carrot, Radish, Balsamic Crema

House Bread – Focaccia and Filone Italian yeast bread with Gaeta Olives and Butter

Monkfish in Carpione – Dredged in rice flour, Fried in olive oil, served with pickled carrots, fennel, celery

Lamb Chorizo with Favas and Mint, chili oil

Bandera Quail with Rosemary Potatoes and Grapes under a Sauce of cognac, cipollini onions, chicken liver, sage, and cream

Sweet Onion Crepe with Truffle Fondue

Almond Tortellini with Truffle Sauce, Toasted Almond, Parmesan

Sweet Pea Agnolotti with Prosciutto, Robiola Cheese, Ricotta Salata

Spinach Gnocchi with Brown Butter

Fettucine with Morels and Parmesan

Duck Confit Ravioli with Pinot Noir, Thyme, and Currants

Rabbit Papardelle with Cacio Al Tartufo, Carrots, Pecorino, and Black Truffle

Roasted Capretto with Stone Milled Polenta

Line Caught Alaskan King Salmon with Strawberries and Asparagus

Maialino with Fiddlehead Ferns and Mostarda, crispy skin, sage, pancetta, and Vidalia onions

Cheese Board – Honey from Abruzzese, Red Wine Applesauce, Toasted Milk Bread, Bagoss, Verde Capra, Testun al Barolo, Casatica, Pecorino Foglie di Noce

Coconut Sorbet with Chocolate and Almonds

Pistachio Flan with White Chocolate Gelato

Chocolate Polenta Soufflé

Oatmeal and Blueberry Trifle – Served in a Mouth-Blown Kosta Boda Glass

Petit Fours – Chocolate Apricot Macarons, Strawberry Gelee, Cocoa Fudge

Brulee Marshmallow Meringue

…I’d been to Vetri before as a solo (https://endoedibles.com/?p=265,) and this time I went back with friends who’d been as well (http://ulteriorepicure.com/2008/08/31/review-plates-of-perfect-pasta/) and having e-mailed the restaurant to inquire about an extended tasting what we received was more-or-less every single dish on the Vetri menu that evening, each diner receiving a different dish for each course and each dish exquisitely prepared and presented – some identical to our prior visits and some entirely new.

Simply stated, when I walked into Vetri on 5/26/12 it was my second visit – the other visit, nearly 21 months prior, my favorite Italian meal of all time by a small margin. When I walked out of Vetri on 5/26/12 the prior meal was my second favorite Italian meal of all time – the Maialino, Monk Fish, and Sweet Pea Agnolotti all amongst the best new dishes I ate during my trip through DC, Baltimore, and Philadelphia in May of 2012…and that isn’t even mentioning the repeat dishes such as the gnocchi which rank amongst the best ever.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Italian, lost meals, Macaroon, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Souffle, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation, Vetri

May 26, 2012
12:05 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] The Dandelion, Philadelphia PA

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

The Dandelion

Butter Lettuce Salad – Honey Crisp Apples, Pomegranate Seeds, Spiced Walnuts, Tuxford & Tebbutt Stilton, Honey Vinaigrette

Chicken & Duck Liver Parfait – Grape Chutney, Cornichons, Brioche Toast

Raisin and Sugar Scones with Raspberry Jam

Lamb Shepherd’s Pie – Mashed Potatoes, Cheddar Cheese, Winter Vegetables

Beer-Battered Fish & Chips – Line-caught Chatham Cod, Tartar Sauce, and Triple Cooked Chips

Blueberry Tart – Vanilla Ice Cream

Sticky Toffee Pudding – Date Ice Cream, Toffee-Rum Sauce

Honey Crisp Apple Financier – Green Apple Sorbet, Caramelized Apples

My last lunch (technically brunch) in Philadelphia, a meal shared with my two lovely friends who’d driven in from New York, would actually prove to be one of the most surprising of the trip – a meal that surpassed modest expectations when we tucked in at restaurateur Stephen Starr’s British themed Dandelion Pub on 18th Street. Admittedly not a fan of ‘theme’ restaurants…or Starr’s restaurants in general…but led to believe by many friends that The Dandelion was different from the rest what the three of us experience that Saturday afternoon was actually some of the best ‘pub food’ I’ve ever encountered and aside from a seating issue the meal was really quite satisfying.

Noting first the space – a large house completely renovated into a restaurant and featuring rooms ranging from a large banquet hall to a sporty bar (complete with televisions showing Man U) to many small nooks and crannies each featuring distinctive seating from rustic chairs to benches and barstools – the feel of the restaurant is both cozy and inviting while service, in our case from a friendly young woman named Mary, is professional and accommodating – even when we requested to be moved because a large family with several unruly children was placed in the same section of the house.

Moving next to the food and drink, while I cannot comment on the two-course cask beer pairing ordered by one in our party, I can say that everything I tasted that afternoon was good while a couple of the plates actually verged on great – the enormous portion of liver mousse with buttery brioche (replenished warm, without request, French Laundry style) and the Sticky Toffee Pudding particularly stunning amongst the eight plates sampled. Taking special note of the oft raved Cod – it is definitely as good as the rumors; a moist and flaky fish with great flavor under a particularly crunchy batter – though at nearly $20 it would be tough to call the single fillet a deal and while the Shepherd’s Pie was good, in my opinion it could have used a bit more heft from the meat and a bit more salt in the potatoes.

Perhaps not “authentic” and certainly not “cheap,” and yet at the same time not entirely disingenuous or “theme park” I think one can best sum up The Dandelion as “you get what you pay for,” and it certainly costs less than a plane ticket to London and compared to other ‘pub’ themed places to watch an afternoon soccer match I’m pretty sure none of them are going to trump The Dandelion’s beer list, liver, cod, or sticky toffee pudding.

Posted in Dessert, Foie, Food, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, The Dandelion, Vacation

May 26, 2012
8:42 AM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] a.kitchen, Philadelphia PA

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

a kitchen

Almond Croissant

Counter Culture Coffee

Gruyere Buns with Poached Eggs and Country Ham

This meal was better titled “a disaster,” from their somehow managing to fail to unlock the doors until 10 minutes after they were supposed to open to the fact that my ‘server,’ Adrienne managed to ignore me (and my coffee/water refills) until I actively called to her across the room – where only one other patron sat – to the bait and switch menu (no Bread Pudding French Toast despite the online menu) the only thing that could have saved AKA Rittenhouse’s restaurant was the food…

…and it didn’t. With an almond croissant I would swear was stale considering the way it flaked and cracked – not to mention the slathering of frangipane – to the fairly average Gruyere Buns which unfortunately lacked any flavor of the cheese but did support some nicely poached eggs and savory pork this was the sort of meal that could have been trumped with a Moons Over My-Hammy at Denny’s…except for the coffee, which was actually quite nice…but at least at Denny’s it would have been refilled by a person I felt deserved a tip; something I did not leave as Andrew Jackson’s face seemed more than adequate.

Posted in a.kitchen, Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Food, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork

May 25, 2012
8:58 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Koo Zee Doo, Philadelphia PA

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

Koo Zee Doo

Lupini beans

Broa Corn Bread and Crusty White Roll with Salted Butter

Caldo Verde – Pureed potato broth with collards and chouriço plus Chorizo oil

Pasteis de Bacalhau – Potato and Salt Cod Croquettes

Lulas Estufadas – Fried and Braised Squid, Tomatoes, Mashed Potatoes, Peas, Olives, Cumin Marinara

Arroz de Pato – Baked duck rice with white rice cooked in duck stock, duck confit, and chorizo

Pudim de Pão de Chocolate – Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding with Crème Anglaise with Almond Praline

Bolo de Bolacha – Coffee soaked wafers, Buttercream, Passion fruit compote, topped with Chocolate Salami

Bolo de Amêndoa – Flourless almond cake dipped in Chocolate, fig-port wine reduction

Peregrine Coffee – Brazilian Roast

It pains me that it took so long to revisit my meal at Koo Zee Doo through photos and words because I fear I may have lost salient points, memories, and facts about the two hours during which I sat and watched David Gilberg and Carla Gonçalves prepare one of the most unique and satisfying meals of 2012. Having never truly experienced Portuguese cuisine or culture and finding both entirely underrepresented in the United States everything about this BYO was stellar; the reservationist who set up my tasting menu, the window seat with a full view of the bar, the rustic setting with brick walls lined with candle light, and even the classic Portuguese music playing overhead. If Kanella felt like a mom and pop spot then Koo Zee Doo felt like being invited to a friend’s house for dinner – an outstanding 5 course dinner for a mere $50 with service that was both friendly and educated as well as educational.

Admitting my naivety with Portuguese cuisine but led to believe both by friends and the staff that the dishes served at Koo Zee Doo are a somewhat upscale yet accurate take on the country’s food I can only say that beginning with the fibrous but flavorful Lupini beans served alongside toothsome and warm Broa and moving on to creamy, spicy soup and then progressing through perhaps the best salt cod dish I’ve ever had the meal started strong and only got stronger as the night moved on – the smoky yet subtle squid over creamy potatoes and briny tomato sauce leading into a grand finale duck rice with as much cracklin’ confit as rice beneath a perfect magret. Perfect in the savories and equally sublime in sweets it was a trio of mini treats that arrived last alongside Brazilian coffee that is apparently roasted in a local Kensington man’s garage and as much as I love bread pudding – this one a beautiful flavor and texture – it was the Bolo that truly stole the show; two bites of pure bliss that I’d be thinking about throughout the concert that followed and even well into my post-concert bites at Alla Spina and meals the following day.

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Koo Zee Doo, lost meals, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Tasting Menu

May 25, 2012
5:25 PM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Alla Spina, Philadelphia PA

 

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

Alla Spina

Sotto Aceit House Made Pickles – Peppers, Asparagus, Hearts of Palm

Oyster Mushrooms Trifolati

Housemade Pretzels with Spicy Beer Cheese

Schisola Polenta Stuffed with Taleggio Cheese

Testina Pig Sticks with Salsa Rossa

Poutine with Guinea Hen Leg Bolognese and Mozzarella Curd

Pork Rillette with Spring Onions and Rye Beer Bread

Pig Tails with Fennel Agrodolce

Crispy Sunchokes with Sea Salt

Mortadella hotdog with Spicy Pickles and Cabbage Relish with Vinegar Chips

Dark Chocolate Budino S’mores with Graham Cracker Cookie, Brulee Marshmallows

Donut Bread Pudding

Pistachio Meringata

La Colombe Coffee

Admittedly a fan of Marc Vetri and impressed by the food at all three of his previous restaurant there was little doubt I’d visit Alla Spina during my trip to Philadelphia for AACE 2012 and as it happened I actually visited twice – once after the Thrice show at the Electric Factory on 5/25 and once before dinner at Vetri’s eponymous crown jewel on 5/26. A large, open space with an industrial yet rustic aesthetic and a strong focus on snacks, bar food, and a bar program Alla Spina is without a doubt the most “casual” of the Vetri restaurants and yet the service, food, and overall experience remain distinct to the chef; a remarkable feat rarely accomplished to such high standards. With Chef Vetri in the house both nights – sometimes cooking, sometimes chatting, and both times stopping by my table and those around me to chat the environment is energetic without being chaotic, the food “street” without being “grubby,” and the service – both nights from a young lady named Allison – outstripping far longer established restaurants.

From happy hour to after hours and from pickles to pork and even dessert my sampling of the menu during the two visits (one with a friend) ranged a number of items and save for some slightly greasy sunchokes and a bread pudding that would have been better with something to balance its intense sweetness every dish was excellent – particularly the well balanced poutine, Vetri Restaurant quality polenta, and showstopping meringata; one of the lightest and most flavorful desserts I tasted in 2012.

Posted in Alla Spina, Bread Pudding, Coffee, Dessert, Italian, lost meals, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Vacation, Vetri

May 25, 2012
8:59 AM
by: Uhockey

[lost meals] Cafe Estelle and Kanella, Philadelphia PA

The lost meals entries consist of meals that occurred at various times throughout 2012 which, for any number of reasons, escaped my documentation – some due to a cross country move and a new job, some due to the Los Angeles Kings run to the Stanley Cup, and some simply as a result of too much travel. Having enjoyed many of these meals with friends or family and with some of them amongst the year’s very best the reality is that with time my memory has deteriorated and as life moves forward I’ve realized there is little hope to ever “catch up” or document these experiences as well as I’d hope, yet in order to preserve them I present these pictures, notes, and thoughts on the experience.

Café Estelle

Green Street Coffee – selections including Sumatra, Costa Rica, and Rooster Roast

Strawberry, Rhubarb, Cream Cheese Stuffed French Toast with Warm Maple Syrup

A cute and airy space with great coffee and very friendly servers the French Toast at Café Estelle was simply a disappointment – the bread too doughy and not saturated; just a vein of cream cheese acting to give it a bit of moisture and a substantial disappointment compared to the quality offered at Lift or Green Eggs Café. Stepping up the game substantially with the coffee I’d consider giving them a second chance if I were in town for an extended period of time but I certainly wouldn’t rush back as I would for many others in the Philadelphia breakfast/brunch scene.

Kanella

 

Kanella Platter with Stuffed Grape Leaves, Tabouli, Falafel, Fried Eggplant, Spicy Tomato Salad, Tzanziki, Olives and Pita

Malohwa Pan Fried Savory Puff Pastry from Yemen, Boiled Egg, Spicy Tomato Salad and Greek Yogurt

Cyprus Crepe – Crepe Stuffed with Manouri Cheese Drizzled with Carob Syrup

Mousaka – Ground Lamb Layered with Grilled Eggplant and Topped with Béchamel

Chef’s Mother’s Coconut, Date, and Hazelnut Cake – With Date and Orange Syrup

Baklava – Fillo Pastry Filled with Walnuts and Pistachios, Soaked in Spiced Syrup

Galatopoureko – Fillo Pastry Filled with Semolina Custard, Drizzled with Orange Syrup

The second of two ‘breakfasts’ that day my visit to Kanella featured two of my favorite dining companions and ordering widely from the interesting Greek inspired menu I think we all walked away quite impressed by not only the quality of the food but also of the service; a small family run operation where everyone was more than happy to tell you about the recipes and heritage of each dish. Not well versed in Greek food and actually not at all a fan of grape leaves or Tzanziki the beauty of this menu for me was the more esoteric options such as the savory puff pastry and the sweets – the crepe and the Galatopoureko particularly excellent; I’d definitely revisit for breakfast or dinner, particularly given the wonderful family atmosphere and bargain prices for food I generally do not go out of my way for – an experience both delicious and educational.

 

Posted in Breakfast, Cafe Estelle, Coffee, Dessert, French Toast, Kanella, lost meals, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Vacation

May 24, 2012
8:08 PM
by: Uhockey

Bibou, Philadelphia PA

The Gist: http://www.biboubyob.com/

The Why: Considered by many to be the best restaurant in Philadelphia and receiving raves from many palates I trust for both the food and the hospitality I’d tried to visit Pierre Calmels’ cozy French bistro on my previous trip to Philadelphia only to find it closed for summer break; a bummer to be sure but perhaps a bit of serendipity as I’d have been flying solo on that trip while for this visit I was to be joined by two of my favorite people driving in from New York.

The Reservation: Mandatory, regardless of the time or the day of the week. A small, cash only BYOB with limited hours and dining times as long as three hours rest assured that there is rarely an open seat and plan in advance – they start taking reservations 30 days in advance and are often booked up within hours.

The setting: Topping out at perhaps two-dozen white clothed tables packed into a space no bigger than many living rooms the feel at Bibou is every bit as cozy as any Parisian bistro and although the quarters are tight the space does not feel ‘cramped’ – each diner has space to move, though you can certainly hear your neighbors (particularly as the wine flows freely.) Sparsely decorated with various photos and children’s drawings while old but sturdy blonde wood chairs match the beige and brown décor it is very clear that Bibou is about the food, not the fuss.

The service: In a word, superlative. From Pierre’s wife Charlotte handling the phones for reservations and monitoring the room throughout the evening to our primary server to Pierre himself stopping by each table to offer his thanks during the course of the evening none at our table (or any other) were ever for want of anything.

The Food and Drink: Two bottles of wine (2007 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone and 2010 Neige Apple Ice Wine,) complimentary bread and butter, three courses each, and complimentary mignardises.

Warm Baguette with Eschire Butter: If there is a better baguette in Philadelphia than the one being baked for each table at bibou I’d be shocked; crunchy crust and a delicate crumb paired with imported butter lightly tinged with salt…it was like a morning in Paris and disappearing quickly a second service appeared without question and proved equally wonderful.

Escargots – Snail Ragout, Fava Beans, mushroom mousserons flavored with tarragon: Perhaps Pierre’s most famous dish and a staple on the ever-changing menu I cannot say I’ve ever been wowed by escargots and although this preparation was certainly the best I’ve tasted the fact remains that I simply find snails to be ‘okay’ in terms of both taste and texture while the accoutrements, particularly the tender mushrooms, far outshined the dish’s featured ingredient. Earthy and aromatic, briny but balanced, and overall quite nice I simply can’t help but assume the dish would have been better served (for me) with a different protein.

Foie Gras Duo – green fig and rabbit confit / ravioli with duck gastrique: Ordered by both of my companions and thus affording me more than a small taste this was one of those dishes that couldn’t fail given the quality of the product and the chef…and the ice wine from my trip to Montreal a month earlier didn’t hurt either. Starting first with a thick slice of liver, caramelized on the exterior with a brilliant balance of sweet and saline added by the fig and confit and then moving to the tender noodle stuffed with nearly liquid mousse and bathed in a bright aromatic jus this was a pairing that touched every part of the palate, each bite as good as the last and as interesting as the first.

Pied de Porc – Braised pig foot stuffed with Foie Gras and French Lentils De Puy: Along with the escargot this is bibou’s second menu staple and although not the plethoric portion of that at Au Pied du Cochon I’d be lying if I said this was any less impressive; a full sized trotter braised to crispy perfection and nearly bursting with creamy foie gras. Gluttonous, sure, but nicely conceptualized with the nutty lentils serving to balance the fatty pork while also sopping up braising liquid this is certainly not a dish for the weak of heart or those on a diet but for anyone else I’d consider it one of Philadelphia’s best dishes.

Bone Marrow with Bread Crumbs, Garlic, and Greens: One of the nightly specials this was another dish where execution was everything and unlike traditional preparations the dish presented was more like stuffing or bread pudding than marrow simply topped with crispy crumbs. Large in portion and immense in flavor with a light salad at one side and crispy garlic potatoes at the other there was more than enough of this dish to be shared and given its richness the sweet spiciness of the Cotes du Rhone proved a great pairing.

Rack of lamb with new potatoes, artichokes, vegetable and lamb jus: Another nightly special served in substantial portion this medium rare rack was presented just as rustic as one might expect and with each of the vegetables tender and flavorful the balance of flavors was excellent while the rosemary and thyme accented jus proved every bit worth sopping up with what was left of the second baguette.

Sorbet from Anthony’s: Not wowed by the sweets menu in the same way as we were by the savories one of my friends opted for Italian Ice brought in from Anthony’s Italian Coffee House and although I did not try either the Strawberry or the Lemon selections both seemed to be well received along with a bottle of Orangina.

Floating Island with Homemade almond pralines, goat milk crème Anglaise: Selected by my second dining companion and served in an elegant glass atop a paper doily this light meringue pyramid arrived floating in a warm broth at the same time sweet and slightly savory along with a sprinkling of crispy almonds. Small in size, texturally pleasant and mild in flavor this was a nice dessert after such heavy savories.

Apricot Meringue Pie: My selection for dessert and in my opinion the best of the group by a significant margin this seasonal selection presented a dense buttery crust filled with candied apricot puree beneath lightly bruleed meringue alongside fresh blueberries, caramel drizzle, and a dollop of hand-whipped cream. Sucrose sweet but mellowed nicely by the butter and cream this would not have been my first choice on the majority of dessert menus but after the pre-dinner bites at Barbuzzo and something as heavy as the Pied de Porc this fit the bill nicely.

Coconut Macaroon and Vanilla Meringue: A final send off, delivered by Charlotte with the check, the meringue was largely forgettable but the warm macaroon most certainly was not – a creamy coconut pudding in a buttery shell that would have made a great dessert all on its own.

The Verdict: A great meal with wonderful friends in a warm space where each guest is treated like the most important person in the room it would be hard to claim that Charlotte and Pierre’s little space on 8th is anything less than a gem in an era where exquisite French cuisine often carries a price tag nearly double or triple what was spent at bibou that evening and although the dessert menu could perhaps use some work for those of us with a more substantial sweet tooth that small quibble is more than quashed by the BYO policy and exquisite bread service…next visit to Philadelphia it shall be the tasting menu without question.

Posted in Bibou, Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Vacation

May 24, 2012
5:56 PM
by: Uhockey

Barbuzzo, Philadelphia PA

The Gist: http://barbuzzo.com/barbuzzo/

The Why: Part of the 13th Street collection of restaurants owned and operated by Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran I’d been debating visiting BarBuzzo for lunch earlier in the day but having made the unfortunate decision to instead visit Fountain I’d originally figured that BarBuzzo would fall on my ever growing ‘next time’ list but as it would turn out instead an early end to the conference, a late reservation at Bibou, and beautiful al fresco weather proved to be a perfect combination as I wandered the streets with the original intention of stopping by Capogiro.

The Reservation: None was made – just a spur of the moment decision landing me a two top on the sidewalk.

The Setting: Admitting that I only walked into the restaurant for a few moments in order to use the restroom before departing and walking to Bibou the cramped space certainly seemed to have great energy – everyone from the patrons to the servers to the kitchen smiling and conversation lively. Speaking to the patio, a small strip barely seperated from the foot traffic and slightly further from the cars on the street I will say that there were times I would have liked a bit more distance from the rushhour commute, especially those opting to smoke or speak far too loudly on their cell phones but all things being equal the patio is quite pleasant with comfortable chairs and excellent shade from the nearby trees.

The Service: Noting that the restaurant was quite busy and servers were splitting time between outside and in the service at BarBuzzo was surprisingly fluid and my primary server, Douglas, did an excellent job of keeping up with the majority of the full patio on his own. Friendly and efficient, though admittedly one of those “everything is good” sorts when asked to make recommendations I’ll simply say that while I originally came to try perhaps two small plates he did his job well enough to sell me four.

The food and drink: 2 appetizers, 2 desserts.

Chicken Liver and Foie Gras Mousse with spiced apple marmalade and duck fat fried almonds: Always a sucker for cold foie gras preps and equally charmed by spreads served in jars this was the dish I’d targeted when approaching Barbuzzo that evening and with the creamy mousse studded with smoky almonds this was everything I’d hoped for as liver’s sapor was prevalent without being overwhelming while the almonds added both texture and balance. Excellent on its own but all the better with cinnamon apples on a piece of crostini the only thing lacking here was more bread – a situation remedied with a simple request at no extra charge.

Pan Seared Gnocchi with Braised Lamb Shank, Winter Greens, Whipped Feta, and Almond Mint Pesto: Having not seen this one on the online menu but equally fascinated with gnocchi as I am with duck liver mousse it did not take much for Douglas to sell me on this one and while the flavors were not quite as good as the other options of the late afternoon the potato dumplings were superlative, a caramelized exterior giving way to creamy potatoes within. Moving past the pasta to the tender lamb and bitter greens where this dish stumbled for me was unfortunately in the mint, a flavor that would have probably been fine on its own but one that paired oddly with the tang of the feta for me leaving a slightly acrid finish on the tongue with each bite.

Salted Caramel Budino with Dark Chocolate Crust, Vanilla Bean Caramel, Sea Salt: Seen on many menus ever since Mozza’s received such raves part of my reason for visiting Barbuzzo was the rumors that this pudding in a jar was amongst the best desserts in the city and true to the hype it was indeed excellent – a deft balance of sweet and salty brought a step up from the version in Los Angeles by the crunchy bittersweet base. A true budino well worth a stop at Barbuzzo for any fan of the dessert I’m not sure it is as good as incomparable version at Osteria but I’d gladly try both of them side by side in the future to decide.

Warm Lancaster Apple & Raisin Bread Pudding with warm caramel and apple cider gelato: Keeping in mind that I’d planned on just the foie gras and the budino when I sat down at Barbuzzo things got a little bit complicated when I saw the bread pudding on the dessert menu; my first thought being to pass on the budino but then coming to my senses and deciding to simply order both – a decision both inspired and ridiculous given my pending dinner plans, yet one I would not regret as the custard soaked bread was met with perfectly baked apples rife with cinnamon, golden raisins, and spicy cider gelato topped with salty caramel nearly identical to that of the budino. Large in portion and enormous in flavor – a contender for my personal bread pudding “top 10” list.

The Verdict: On the whole I think I can look back on my experience at Barbuzzo in one of two ways – the cynical first being “of course I liked it, I ordered four things that I love” while the second line of thinking would be “I ordered four things that I always order and only one of them was anything less than a standard bearer for the genre” – and at least as it relates to the food I think the truth lies somewhere in between while the lovely day, outdoor setting, and service all contributed positively to the experience as a whole. Featuring a small menu with many staples and a few seasonal changes I’m not sure I’d rush back to Barbuzzo the way I would to other Philadelphia spots at a similar price point but I’d certainly not hesitate to recommend it to a friend with the advice to order what you know and love…and don’t skimp on a dessert or two (…though I gotta admit the La Colombe Tiramisu also sounds pretty divine.)

Posted in Barbuzzo, Bread Pudding, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Vacation

May 24, 2012
12:11 PM
by: Uhockey

Fountain and Tommy Dinic’s, Philadelphia PA

I woke up late on Thursday and after my run went straight for the conference where coffee flowed freely. Still a bit ‘off’ from the prior day, the bottomless coffee was a nice touch, – a nice touch, but never one to suffer conference food lunch was planned – a somewhat last minute decision to visit Fountain at the Four Seasons based on its sterling reputation and my nice experience at Swann Lounge two nights prior…to say the least, this decision was less than inspired.

Arriving at the restaurant within a hotel just after noon to find the dining room approximately a quarter full it would be mere moments before I was led to my seat by the pleasant hostess, yet nearly ten before my server – a man named Deryl – arrived to fill water and offer a wine/cocktail menu that I perused but passed on. Whether understaffed or simply poor service, especially considering the price point and reputation, it would be another five minutes before someone arrived and dropped off a cheddar cheese roll on a small plate; my ‘bread plate’ with butter knife sitting to my left wondering why it was there. Minding you that I did not even have a menu yet I tried the roll – it was fine, rife with characteristic cheddar notes and flaky like a biscuit…sort of like a Cheddar Bay Biscuit from Red Lobster, but (bearing in mind I haven’t been there since I was a teen) not as memorable.

With water empty Deryl returned with the menu, collected the empty bread plate, and returned later to take my order…water still empty prompting me to request a refill. At this point I honestly considered getting up and walking out, but I presumed the food might make up for it and ordered three appetizers plus a dessert; having heard that if the soufflé was excellent but required advanced notice. With a ‘very good’ Deryl departed and although I saw him tending to a table across the way he did not return until dessert was served – the back waiters doing all the work (and refilling water much more efficiently,) though my confused bread plate sat empty.

A nice space – light woods, large windows, and sturdy tables made of darker woods – Fountain was pleasant enough as men in suits dined on salads and talked business, but without a doubt a ‘hotel’ restaurant it was largely nondescript and given the lulls between courses rather dull for a party of one – a situation not improved by my first course, the (perhaps appropriately so) dull “Matzo Ball Soup with Amish Chicken Consomme, Tricolor Carrots, Rooftop Parsley.” Starting first with the dumplings – toothsome and a bit salty but without much character – and moving on to the bland stock, the highlight of this dish was the carrots, small nubs made with a melon baller and all quite sweet. The chicken? It was shredded and inconsequential.

Arriving together, my second course consisted of two plates most certainly better than the soup; the first one good and the other simply ‘not bad.’ Beginning first with a long plate of snappy tempura fried wild rock shrimp paired with avocado, yuzu, and Sriracha remoulade, everything on the plate was quite fresh and the kitchen did an admirable job of matching the sweetness of the shellfish with heat and sour while the avocado provided a smooth vegetal balance – a good dish, though admittedly a bit pricey at $16.

Moving next to the “Smoked Ham and Spring Leek Risotto with Sunny Up Duck Egg and Chili Oil,” much like the soup it was simply astounding how bland the dish was – the pork lacking expected salinity, the egg slightly overcooked, and only the leeks and a bit of spice detectable over rice that was appropriately creamy with pleasant toothsomeness, but not particularly interesting despite serving as the base to some of my favorite ingredients.

With the meal dragging on and my palate largely not amused Deryl did at last return with the “signature” Fountain Chocolate Souffle with Crème Chantilly, a tall and proud version of the classic rife with bitter chocolate notes, dusted with powdered sugar, and accompanied by a sidecar of rich crème Chantilly. Light and fluffy, moist but not wet, and sweet without being ‘sugary’ it was textbook – the best $15 of the meal, though certainly not on the same level as the soufflé at LaCroix at the Rittenhouse.

With the tab presented – nearly $75 after taxes and an appropriately modest tip – I made my way to the doors where I was met by the hostess who asked me how the meal went and although I try not to complain too much I figured she should know that the food was bland and the service far less than befitting their price tag or location…an statement to which she responded “oh, well I’m sorry to hear that…but I trust the soufflé was good?” “Sure,” I said “but not good enough to bring me back” as I walked out the door…

…and straight to the Reading Terminal Market for an item 1/10 the price and at least ten times as good as anything I had at Fountain; Tommy DiNic’s Roast Pork Sandwich with Broccoli Rabe and Sharp Provolone – a nearly perfect creation starting with a roll that is crisp on the exterior and a perfect sponge within, pork that is smoky and savory without being over seasoned, and the pairing of bitter rabe with biting sharp provolone each serving not only to balance the other, but also to highlight the flavors of the pork. Considered by some to be the best sandwich in America but for my dollar not quite as wowing as the Gustaio at Paesano’s (or the Porchetta at Roli Roti in San Francisco for that matter) this is still a sandwich well worth the half hour wait.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Fountain, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Souffle, Tommy DiNic's, Vacation

May 23, 2012
8:24 PM
by: Uhockey

Le Virtu, Philadelphia PA

The Gist: http://levirtu.com/

The Why: Located on East Passyunk and raved by many to make the best pasta in a town where Marc Vetri and Peter McAndrews each own more than a couple of restaurants I simply had to investigate for myself; was it really possible that the small Abruzzese inspired Le Virtu was the best in town? Owned, operated, and helmed by Americans all well-traveled and trained in Abruzzo with ingredients both indigenous to Italy and from local farms, fields, and fisheries and armed with an ethos based on the Slow Food traditions the reviews and the expectations were admittedly high and I was once again fortunate enough to have a local co-diner with whom I could share to experiment with more of the diverse menu.

The Reservation: Taken by phone only, a reservation was made for two persons at 7:30pm – a time that even on a Wednesday found the restaurant and its patio at capacity.

The Setting: Dark and perhaps (to some) romantic, the feel of Le Virtu was heavy – lots of wood, thick oil paintings on the wall, and hefty linens with sturdy chairs and candles plus overhead lighting providing a light glow. Packed to capacity and with a patio recently opened to the nice weather I’ll additionally say the place was loud, though after a long day with a lot of food and even more walking perhaps my mood was affected adversely and in part to blame.

The Service: While the owner herself was impressively friendly in stopping around to each table throughout the evening I personally found the service at Le Virtu to be perfunctory at best. Perhaps put off by our not selecting any of the “items I’d recommend” or perhaps a simple effect of too few servers for such a large crowd plates arrived appropriately, though perhaps a bit faster than I’d have hoped, but interaction was minimal despite myself asking a number of questions about some of the ingredients. Generally not a fan of overly elaborate descriptors of farms, terroir, and animal husbandry in restaurants I do expect a bit of detail when specific questions are asked.

The food: Complimentary Bread, 2 Antipasti, 3 Pasti, 2 Dolci.

Focaccia and Crusty White with Olive Oil: Baked in house and served with a veritable pool of high quality olive oil that was so fruity it was almost sweet this was the first case in some time where I found myself more drawn to the crusty white than the focaccia – an effect of the later being a bit dry – and given the fact that I wasn’t feeling 100% when I entered the restaurant it was probably for the best that I did not overindulge.

Ricotta di pecora collo zafferano di Navelli: I like cheese, but only a handful of presentations have truly wowed me to the extent that this first taste of menu did. Described simply as imported sheep’s-milk ricotta infused with Navelli saffron and served with chestnut honey and toasted almonds this smooth yet slightly funky cheese was literally as smooth as butter with heavy aromatics from the saffron deftly balanced by the sweetness of the honey and smoky almonds. Easily edible on its own but even better on the grilled bread I’d be hard pressed to name three cheese courses I’ve enjoyed more anywhere.

N’duja: The lowlight of the meal for myself, largely because my stomach simply wasn’t up to it after so much food throughout the day, this Calabrese salame spread accompanied by grilled rustic bread, and vegetables agrodolce was simply like canned heat – a plethora of spices that I couldn’t place and our server couldn’t enlighten me with. Thankful that my dining buddy seemed to enjoy this dish as much as I enjoyed the Ricotta everything worked out nicely, but for my part I prefer N’duja with something more to cut the heat.

Taccozzelle: Beginning with a base of thick al dente noodles paired with house-made Abruzzese-style sausage and finished with a light sauce of olive oil, porcini mushrooms, black truffles, and Navelli saffron my first bite of pasta from Le Virtu was an aromatic assault on the palate with the ribbons of soft dough largely serving as a delivery mechanism for the beautiful blend of earthy notes and slightly spicy sausage. A rich dish, as with the majority of those at Le Virtu, I was happy to have someone with whom to share.

Gnocchi affumicati: Having noted the “best pasta” claims made by the media and local gourmands alike I knew going into this dish that I was setting Le Virtu up for failure – I figured there was no way this could stand up to Marc Vetri’s standard-bearer Spinach Gnocchi – and in the end I was right, yet at the same time these were still extremely good. One of the many courses on the menu blending local goods with those imported and anchored by the tender smoked potato gnocchi the highlight of this plate was actually the thick ragu of Lancaster Co. lamb shoulder and olives topped lightly with pecorino canestrato from Abruzzese, a decidedly savory composition brought in check by the assertive acidity of the tomatoes.

Agnolotti alla porchetta: Featuring slow roasted pork with crispy skin packed inside of delicate agnolotti and topped with sage, butter, black truffles, and crushed amaretti cookie this dish sold itself and although I found the truffles a bit understated it would be hard to quibble with any aspect of this dish otherwise. Rich and hearty yet delicate and balanced I certainly understand how Le Virtu’s pastas draw comparison to the best in town – a coin flip could decide the winner just as easily as any judge in most categories.

Semifreddo al torrone di cioccolato: Unable to pass on dessert no matter what my mood or capacity but unable to justify the $25 tab for the black truffle semifreddo we opted for this $12 selection and although nicely paired with salted caramel sauce, caramel toffee, and whipped cream the texture of the semifreddo was a bit more ‘cakey’ than I was used to – a slightly sticky mouthfeel that although rich with chocolate simply seemed more like angelfood than ice cream, a matter of style perhaps, but not what I’d expected from past experience.

Ricotta Fritta: Four deep fried and dense bites, somewhere between a doughnut and fried cheesecake, these ricotta dumplings were outstanding – each one delightful on its own but even better when dipped into the lemon cream sauce at its side (or the salty caramel accompanying the semifreddo.)

The Verdict: Undoubtedly colored by the fact that I entered the restaurant feeling a bit under the weather and couldn’t fully enjoy as much of each dish as I would have liked I have to give credit where it is due and say that although I did not love the service, setting, or everything we were at Le Virtu that evening there are certainly things to love about any restaurant choosing to focus on such a specific and underrepresented region, especially one with such devout beliefs in quality and sourcing. Dollar for dollar not as good an experience as Modo Mio and bite for bite not as wowing as Vetri I’d still consider going back to Le Virtu in the future if only for some cheese and pasta…besides, in 99% of North American cities it would easily be the best Italian restaurant in town.

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Vacation

May 23, 2012
11:31 AM
by: Uhockey

Monsu, Philadelphia PA

The Gist: http://www.monsurestaurant.com/

The Why: From Peter McAndrews and the folks behind Modo Mio and Paesano’s with a great location in the Italian Market and Brunch/Lunch Hours Wednesday to Sunday this one was a no brainer for me when planning the trip to Philadelphia. Borrowing from traditions and techniques far and wide with a menu both sweet, savory, familiar, and obscure the only question on making a reservation was what I would order since more than 75% of the menu looked divine.

The Reservation: A Cash Only BYO on a Wednesday at 1:00pm – I did not need a reservation, but I made one anyhow. During the course of my meal only two other tables were occupied, and between their seatings I was the only patron in the restaurant.

The Space: Small and cramped with hard-wood floors, hard wood chairs, and multi-colored plates with blue tablecloths and rustic drapes plus homey wall decorations and knick-knacks the best way I can describe Monsu is like dining at a friend’s house – or perhaps that of your Italian Grandparents.

Service: As you might imagine, being the only guest dining at the restaurant for the majority of the afternoon I was well attended to. Seated across from the coffee area with a direct view of the kitchen the skeleton crew of two chefs and one hostess/server/busser was friendly, efficient, and fun – everyone smiling, chatting, and stopping by at one point or another to see how I was enjoying the food.

The Food: Water, Bread Service, One Appetizer, One Main, One Dessert.

Focaccia with Eggplant Olive Caponatta: Much like at Modo Mio and Paesano’s, the team at Mosu bakes some superb bread and loaded with olive oil and notes of rosemary this bread would have been fine on its own, but it was far better with the briny caponatta featuring fibrous eggplant, at least three types of olives, and pine nuts dredge in olive oil.

Gnocchi: Technically not an appetizer but ordered as one none the less, these dense little ricotta dumplings were a bit heavier than their traditional potato or semolina counterparts, but paired with picked jumbo lump crab, sliced pecorino cheese, crumbled pistachios, and tomato cream sauce it would have actually been difficult for a less hearty pasta to stand up to such heft. Smooth and creamy paired with crunchy and briny the crab unfortunately got a little lost in the mix, only showing its characteristic sweetness when a particularly large piece was present in a bite, but all things being equal this was still a really good plate of hearty pasta.

B’stilla: Game meat stuffed in crispy phyllo; McAndrews and team had me at hello. Rich and nutty, lean but certainly not dry this dish was essentially a rabbit hand pie buried beneath a mountain of sour green apple salad and pickled mushrooms resting atop light pistachio pesto – each flavor bright and bold, the acid and sweet acting as a foil to the heft of the protein while the pesto lingered on the finish.

Parfait: With no specific dessert menu aside from the chef’s whim, Monsu’s daily dessert that day was a glass of Angel food cake, caramelized bananas, and nutella whipped with ricotta topped off with crumbled house made biscotti. More or less a dish that could not fail I will note that all-in-all the angel food cake could have stood to be a bit more moist, but perhaps that was a result of my palate having shifted a bit after experiencing the pound cake from Stock’s earlier that morning.

The Verdict: Another winner from Chef McAndrews and a great chance to experience a truly unique French-slanted take on Italian Cuisine at a bargain basement price I only hope that the empty dining room during my visit was an anomaly; it would be a shame if more people weren’t experiencing such excellent cuisine an area where there are far too many spots slinging sub-par checkered tablecloth red-sauce Italian at tourists. Perhaps not as refined as the Vetri quartet I still contest that McAndrews’ spots are every bit as important to the Philadelphia culinary landscape and I’d gladly revisit any of them anytime.

Posted in Bread Basket, Crab, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Monsu, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Vacation

May 23, 2012
7:37 AM
by: Uhockey

Stock’s Bakery, Cafe Lift, Pitruco, La Colombe, Isgro, Philadelphia PA

My second day in Philly, the last before ENDO2012 would begin, started the same as most – a long run inclusive of a Stallone style jog up the stairs of the art museum – and after a shower I hopped in the car en route for a place I’d only heard about the day prior from a gentleman in the Italian Market, a place called Stock’s Bakery up in Kensington that apparently served a legendary poundcake. Wondering exactly how good a cake generally made without much more than butter, sugar, and eggs could be as good as the fellow raved I decided to find out for myself and warned that they only sold whole cakes by weight I was additionally glad to know that I’d have friends in town both that evening and the day following with whom I could share.

Guided by GPS and making my way through the streets in good time I arrived at the small bakery just after 7:00am and with street parking just steps away I entered to a nodded greeting by the lady behind the counter and proceeded to browse my options, eventually settling on three choices – one warm and two already packaged and ready to go. Not particularly a welcoming place I paid in cash and thanked the clerk who I’m rather certain never said more to me than the total cost and ‘have a nice day.’

Making my way to the street and quickly unbagging my first choice I started with a warm yeasty donut coated in granulated sugar and although some may fancy glazed or powdered, I personally enjoyed the texture while the dough itself was light and wispy – a good start. Moving next to a large pan weighing in at what I estimate to be about 18oz, my second selection would also prove to still be warm and while the pound cake may get all the press I’ll tell you right now that the Butter Cake is severely underrated – a slightly salty yet entirely sweet butter and cream cheese pudding resting atop golden vanilla cake. Dense at the top yet flaky at the base and only $3 for a whole tray there was more than enough here to feed four – something I had to be wary of given the day’s eating plans as I limited myself to only 1/3 of the tray, the rest given to Ray later that evening to take home to his family.

Moving last to the famous pound cake, mine with a slick vanilla frosting, I’ll just come out and admit that although my sample size is small it is without a doubt the best I’ve ever tasted – the crumb dense, the flavors that of pure butter, flour, and salty vanilla beneath a mountain of sweet…a science experiment in super-saturation where even the smallest loaf on the rack weighed in at 3lbs. Like the butter cake but with more heft and a higher price this is without a doubt something to be shared, or at the very least savored over the course of a few days – or a week. Not friendly at all but delicious and a downright bargain I’d definitely go back and recommend anyone visiting Philadelphia with a car to check it out.

Moving on from Stock’s – and don’t trust a Garmin GPS on this one since it will attempt to drive you off a bridge – my next stop would be Café Lift; a spot I’d missed on my prior visit to Philadelphia due to a seasonal closure but one I’d no plans to skip again based on two things – La Colombe Coffee and Cannoli French Toast.

Open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 3pm and apparently often with a queue I arrived at the small space a few minutes before the doors opened and welcomed by a young lady named Natalie who also acted as my waitress I ascended the stairs to what appeared to be a renovated industrial loft furnished with reclaimed wood and metal chairs plus a bit of paint and spackle; a stylish space even if it is a bit cold and seated near a window I was told of a few specials that I quickly dismissed before placing my order – one deemed a “good call” before my server walked away to grab a carafe of water and a white porcelain mug.

With free Wi-Fi to keep me busy and a touch of regret that I’d be passing on the breakfast pastries in order to save room for later it would not be long before the coffee arrived – Corsica blend with free refills aplenty, creamer, and choice of sweeteners and with the clock reading 9:15 and only another two tables seated the coffee would quickly be followed by the French Toast – potentially the best I’ve had to date.

Described on the menu as “Cannoli French Toast with Challah Bread “Dredged” in cinnamon vanilla custard, baked, then finished with bananas, chipped chocolate, pistachio, and homemade ricotta cannoli filling” and costing a mere $9.50 for four thick slices of eggy caramelized custard topped with what must have been at least a whole banana, a quarter cup of salty pistachios, and plenty of chocolate what truly set this dish on a pedestal was the ricotta – the curd not quite smooth and the flavor just a touch sour, marvelously balanced by the fructose of the banana and applied pure maple syrup. Bite by bite, some creamy and some crunchy, all were delicious and paired with the chocolate undertones of the coffee I’d be hard pressed to name a better single breakfast dish anywhere for less than $10.

Visiting the Conference Center to register and then wandering the Reading Terminal Market for a bit to see what sounded best for lunch the next day I made my way back to the streets around noon only to find some sort of protest going on near JFK plaza thus temporarily delaying my arrival to the next dining destination – a rarity for myself in the form of a food truck called Pitruco where three friends from Germantown were supposedly turning out immaculate wood fired pizzas from a brick oven in a trailer.

Having already gathered a small line and a reported ten minute wait for 1 foot diameter pies ranging from $7 to $9 I stepped up to the cart and placed my order before stepping around back where I was invited to watch the nearly nine hundred degree oven at work and no less than six minutes later I walked away with my prize – a rich Margherita with a bubbly charred crust, lively tomato sauce with minimal sweetness, and puddles of bufala mozzarella plus a slightly less than ideal amount of fresh basil. Crisp and light, full of flavor, and shockingly authentic for a mere $8 – this is the sort of food truck that could actually make me change my mind about the whole genre, a truck where the low overhead is passed onto the customer despite the use of superlative ingredients.

Making my way south to the Italian Market for lunch at Monsu while I worked on my appetizer from Pitruco the heat of the sun and the pizza necessitated a stop for something cool to drink and like an oasis in the desert La Colombe at Penn Square rose up before me; an easy choice given my unabashed love for their coffee, their ethics, and their layout. With their standards all in full display and cold Corsica ready to be poured over ice my visit to the space was short this day and $2 + a $1 tip to the barista later I was back on the street with plans to return prior to driving home in order to stock up on Pure Black and a few bags of Haitian Blue Mountain from the Atelier collection.

Skipping over Monsu – a full meal for a later post – and moving on to a later snack before dinner at Le Virtu as I wandered up and down the Italian Market collecting odds n’ ends from various shops I finally took the opportunity to visit the Philadelphia institution that is Isgro – according to some (including themselves http://www.bestcannoli.com/) the best cannoli in the city, and perhaps the United States – and I have to say that entering Gus Isgro’s hundred year old institution the space definitely carries a lot of weight.

Small and tight, particularly given the platoons of patrons perusing the various cakes, cookies, pastries, and tarts, service at Isgro is slow but efficient as each guest is tended to in order and greeted by a young woman no older than eighteen I placed my order quickly, paid in cash, and watched as my cannoli was filled, wrapped, and placed in a box tied with string…a string that would be dismantled less than thirty seconds later when I sat down on the curb outside to enjoy.

Beginning first with the signature ricotta Cannoli, clearly the litmus test of a place touting the best in the city, I’d be hard pressed to disagree with their assessment as the shell was perfectly crisp and shattered to the tooth giving way to a subtly sweet filling both dense and creamy but not in any way sticky or overwhelming. Dusted lightly with powdered sugar it would be hard for me to choose between Isgro and Modern Pastry of Boston as ‘best ever,’ though both top Termini Brothers without doubt.

Moving next to my other options, the first a bit of a letdown and the second amongst the best baked goods I would eat in 2012, my selection of a Rhum Baba and a Sfogliatella should come as no surprise. Beginning first with the Baba, a cream filled version of the European classic, it really wasn’t that the texture or the quality was off, but rather that the cream was too sweet while the punchiness of the rum was lost in the cream and sugar, not a ‘bad’ thing for some but certainly not what I had expected. Moving next to the Sfogliatella, a yellow cream version with a shell so crisp it was almost intimidating to bite, well…let’s just say I bit and what followed was a puff of powdered sugar and sweetness followed by a luxurious blend of creamy notes from semolina laced mascarpone rife with hints of citrus and cinnamon, without a doubt the best version of the pastry I’ve experienced to date and by itself a reason to return to Isgro on my next visit to Philadelphia (or an excuse, at least, to go back and try a dozen more of their time tested treats.)

Posted in Breakfast, Cafe Lift, Coffee, Food, French Toast, Isgro, Italian, La Colombe, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pitruco, Pizza, Stock's, Vacation

May 22, 2012
8:08 PM
by: Uhockey

Blackfish, Conshohocken PA and Swann Lounge, Philadelphia PA

The Gist: http://www.blackfishrestaurant.com/

The Why: Located out in Conshohocken and featured on many of Philadelphia’s “best of” lists, Chip Roman’s Blackfish had been on my list of places to eat during previous visits, but with gourmands I trust deeming it unworthy of the hype (and drive) plus an online menu that never really wowed me I’d held off; to say the least Philly has plenty of great alternatives. Again taking a look at the restaurant prior to this visit, however, I noted a ‘special events’ section suggesting a Tuesday ingredient-driven prix fixe – the ingredient of the day being duck – in addition to the regular menu and I booked a table right away; what better way to see a chef’s skills than with my favorite ingredient?

The Reservation: Opentable for 1 at 5:45; perhaps not a necessity as the place didn’t begin to fill until seven, though by the time I left I gather they were nearly at capacity.

The Setting: Aside from traffic during Philadelphia’s rush hour converting my planned early arrival into a ‘just on time’ affair I found the space with ease and securing free parking just around the corner made my way to the door just on time, finding the space perhaps 1/3 full and myself the youngest person in the room by perhaps twenty years. Clean lines, white walls, wood floors, and a pair of rooms the space appears to be an old home and with the back room a bit louder (hosting a large party) with a bit duskier grey hue I opted to sit up front near the window. White tablecloths, shabby-chic wooden chairs, and a pile of books, the space is minimalist but comfortable.

The Service: Like most of the Philadelphia BYO scene the service is laid back – friendly but not chummy, and professional if not a bit preoccupied. Running a small crew, an elderly gentleman named Harold took care of water and bread refills throughout the night and frequently asked what I thought of the dishes, happy when I said things were good and attentive when I noted my first cup of coffee had some grounds in it, not only refilling it but taking it off the bill.

The Food: 4-course Prix-Fixe plus an additional appetizer and additional dessert, complimentary bread service and amuse bouche, coffee with free refills.

Salted Focaccia and Hearty White with Olive Oil: Preceding the amuse I received two breads and with both still warm from the oven I tried the white first – a dense smoky crust and hearty crumb – before moving on to the Focaccia that would call for 3-4 (more?) additional slices through the meal – a moist and salty sponge that went marvelously with the fruity olive oil and sauces, stocks, and dressings on the dishes to come.

Ginger Pear Espuma: Airy and intense – just a couple of bites and smooth as silk – this was as well conceived as an amuse as it would have been as a palate cleanser before dessert.

Foie Gras Soup, Chicken Dumplings, New Potato, Tuscan Kale: One of my supplemental courses and a sort of signature dish for the restaurant this shallow bowl featured a whipped stock rife with the unmistakable sapor of foie gras and light smoky notes that came through on palate yet not on the tongue. Certainly not a dish for those who do not fancy the flavor of foie gras itself, the accoutrements were none the less also quite excellent, the kale lending a much needed vegetal tinge while the dumplings brought just a touch of brine.

Duck Prosciutto, Watercress, Granny Smith: The first course of the prix fixe, and also the least memorable, this light salad was modestly composed with the duck quite delicate in flavor and largely lost to the bitterness of the watercress and sourness of the melon-balled apples. Undressed I think this dish possibly could have benefitted from a touch of acid, or at least something more than pepper to spice the protein.

Roasted Foie Gras, Strawberries, Rhubarb, Balsamic: If you want to make up for a boring salad this is certainly not a bad way to do so – a perfect piece of foie caramelized on the exterior and melting within paired simply with fresh strawberries, rhubarb puree, and a bit of aged balsamic. Perhaps the best example of what people had told me about Blackfish and Chef Roman’s style this was simply great ingredients prepared with a skilled hand and presented without a lot of fuss – and it was great.

Margret Duck Breast, Kohlrabi, Fava Beans, White Asparagus: Finishing strong both in flavor and in portion this was another dish where the ingredients spoke for themselves, the crackling skin of the duck separated from supple flesh by a light ribbon of fat and the vegetables all prepared with great care. Finished tableside with a cumin and sage spiced duck gravy this plate demanded another slice of foccaica before returning to the kitchen mopped clean.

Coffee with Warm Cream: Aside from a bit of grounds in my first cup it is tough to argue with freely refilled La Colombe.

Crème Caramel, Blackberries: As the prix-fixe dessert of the evening I will confess that I am not much of a crème caramel fan; despite my love for both caramel flavor and puddings/flans in general it always strikes me as more of a “jello,” and this one was no different. Rich and eggy but still with more jiggle than tooth the taste was delicious, but overall it left me wanting something more substantial…

Cinnamon-sugar beignets, English cream, Raspberry Confiture: Certainly more substantial, definitely more my style, and each about the size of a hemisected baseball this was my second a la carte choice and much like the soup, a restaurant signature. Highly recommended by friends, foodies, and by Harold these light pillows certainly lived up to their billing but perhaps even better than the beignets were the dipping sauces – great on their own, great on the donuts, great mixed, and great from a spoon.

The Verdict: Admitting already my fondness for duck and foie gras I can say without doubt that Chip Roman and his team are more than capable of preparing top quality ingredients with skill and grace, a true testament to any chef without doubt. Pairing the prior statement with pleasant service and a minimalistic but comfortable setting I can also say that almost anyone – from gourmand to picky child – could have a good meal at Blackfish…and yet with that noted I still cannot see how some consider it to be amongst the city’s 10 best, particularly given the distance from center city. A nice spot in the suburbs but not a “destination” in my opinion I definitely look forward to checking out some of Roman’s other spots during future visits to Philadelphia.

Having planned my trip to the East Coast well before the Kings miraculous run to the Stanley Cup my first order of business after dinner was finding a place back in the city where I could watch the game without all the hassles and annoyances of a sports bar (and its associated crowd) – a tall order anywhere, but one remedied by The Four Seasons, a hotel I’d certainly never choose to stay at, but featuring the Swann Lounge where a young bartender named Michael not only agreed to turn on the Kings/Coyotes game but also allowed me to hang out after the Lounge closed to finish watching the West Coast game as it went to overtime.

Generally not one to sit in a bar and drink but happy with the comfortable environs and posh stools as the game went on an additional perk of my time at Swann Lounge was the beverage service and the fact that desserts from the highly praised Fountain (a space I’d visit two days later) were available until 11:00pm – a fact I took advantage of first with a subtle and smooth beverage called The Marigold featuring Absolut Mandarin Vodka and Sauvignon Blanc with Honey Basil Syrup and Grapefruit Juice followed by an order of Banana Fritters with Morello Cherry Gelee and English Toffee Bavarian Mousse, a trio of nearly liquid bananas housed inside a crunchy coating alongside rich semifreddo that, although good, certainly did not rival the beignets at Blackfish which cost far less.

Decent desserts, great drinks, great service, and certainly not a traditional place to “watch the game” I will note that at $34 after tax and tip one certainly pays for the opportunity to visit Swann Lounge but when Dustin Penner scored the game winner and I walked back to my far less swanky hotel with a smile on my face the price seemed a veritable bargain.

Posted in Blackfish, Bread Basket, Coffee, Conshohocken, Dessert, Foie, Food, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Tasting Menu Tagged

May 22, 2012
1:05 PM
by: Uhockey

Federal Donuts, Green Eggs Cafe, Paesano’s II, John’s Water Ice, Frangelli’s Bakery, Philadelphia PA

The morning began early with a long run followed by left-over cake from Wit & Wisdom (plus some terrible hotel coffee) prior to the drive from Baltimore to Philadelphia – a drive made in record time thus landing me in the City of Brotherly Love at 7:10am, a mere ten minutes after Michael Solomonov’s oft-raved Federal Donuts opened its doors. Always a fan of breakfasts and baked goods, particularly from a chef who went out of his way to stop by my table to chat when I ordered (er, ‘devoured like a viking’) the pork shoulder at Zahav, Federal Donuts had been on my ‘to visit’ list for a while and although my eating plans for the day were substantial I knew walking in the door that I had co-diners throughout the day with whom I’d happily be able to share.

A small space to be sure and not yet busy on a Tuesday morning parking was a cinch and with two bakers plus a young clerk I asked what was best with a typical response, “everything,” and sizing up the donuts and realizing them to be small I went with the theme ordering a half-dozen fancy options and one of the made to order hot sugared donuts plus a cup of Federal Blend coffee plus a plastic knife with which to divide the selections.

Making my way to the street and sipping the vibrant coffee with earthy cinnamon tones throughout I started first with the hot “Vanilla Lavender” selection and was instantly quite impressed as the exterior was a bit crunchy while the interior was soft and dense, the floral notes understated while mellow vanilla notes came to the fore. Moving next to the daily selections of $2 fancies it was a mixed bag (or box) with the same high quality textures as the hot donuts but the flavors far more bold – and sometimes a bit strange.

Starting with the selections I expected to work nicely, Creamsicle, Strawberry Rhubarb Pie, and Chocolate Banana each choice was a pleasant blend of flavors with the same cake body simply wrapped in a different glaze – a fan of cake donuts over yeasted ‘raised/glazed’ things were off to a good start. Moving next to the more aggressive flavors, Chili Mango and Pomegranate Nutella both proved to be quite bold and interesting – the former with a bit of heat and the later somewhat akin to a peanut butter and strawberry jelly sandwich in flavor. Far less successful, the Mandarin Coffee was simply not my style – far too much acid with the smoky coffee notes providing little balance. Overall a really interesting spot with a good vibe and prices far less than many ‘designer’ donut shops I unfortunately never did make it back for the fried chicken…..though I guess there is always next time.

Moving next just down the street I arrived at Green Eggs Café just after 8am and with a pair of tables already filled I was greeted by my hostess/server Erica, a smiling young lady who seemed to be running the front of the house solo that morning and seated near a window I perused the menu only to find at least three items that sounded great, but a daily special on the chalkboard that sounded even better. Offered water and coffee I gladly accepted both and with free Wi-Fi I decided to pull out my laptop when I was told my order would take “about twenty to thirty minutes.”

A lovely space with a lot of regulars coming in for breakfast even on a weekday morning I sat and sipped a bold (and copiously refilled) mug of fair trade yirgacheffe as I caught up on the previous night’s NHL playoff action and just as promised my breakfast arrived in twenty minutes – a mountain of carbohydrates entitled “Cherry Garcia Stuffed French Toast” featuring an astounding array of toppings including Chocolate Morsels, Cream Cheese , Vanilla Custard, Cherry Syrup, melted Ice Cream Sauce, Chantilly Cream, Bing Cherries, and Chocolate Chips all atop buttery brioche with a “drizzle” of pure maple syrup. Not for the faint of heart (or small of stomach) this was every bit the sort of breakfast I dream of when on vacation and although not QUITE the best French Toast I’ve ever had, a strong contender for top 5 as the golden crust and custard interior stood up admirably to the plethoric toppings; each bite a new and delicious composition of flavors.

With three locations in Philadelphia (and unfortunately none here in Phoenix) Green Eggs Café definitely goes on the “to be revisited” list, ideally next time with others in order to sample more of the menu.

Checked into the hotel with breakfast past, lunch finally started savory with a walk through the Italian Market leading me to Paesano’s II where I met a life-long local gourmand named Ray. Enthusiastic and knowledgeable of the area’s culture we wandered and chatted for a bit before the small sandwich shop opened its doors but after perhaps ten minutes we were the first ones in the door. Greeted by two clerks, one running the register and the other tending the grill we perused the options and settled on three sandwiches that sounded best – “a few minutes” we were told, and paying the modest tab we took a seat.

Delivered as they were finished our first two tastes were the oft raved Arista and the Gustaio, later to be joined by the Bolognese. Beginning first with the Arista, a sandwich piled high with Whole Roasted Suckling Pig, Broccoli Rabe, Italian Long Hots, and Sharp Provolone there really isn’t much more that can be said about this sandwich – a bit like DiNic’s, but in my opinion with superior bread that really stood up to the juicy sandwich. Entirely savory, modestly bitter, and just a bit of heat – great stuff, but not the best Paesano’s has to offer.

Next up, the Gustaio, and whether due to my sweet tooth or simply the awesomeness of the sandwich itself potentially the best thing ever placed on sliced bread. Featuring Roasted Lamb Sausage, Sun Dried Cherry Mustard, Gorgonzola, and Fennel on a sort of Panini-pressed golden wrap every bite was teaming with a deft balance of sweet and savory while the fennel lent a light undertone serving the smoky protein very well. Far less bread-y than the Gustaio or the Bolognese this was certainly the most portable sandwich, but even if I’d have been indulging alone there is no way a bite would have made it out the door.

For the final taste, I think the novelty of Crispy Fried Lasagna, Smoked Parmesan, and a Fried Egg lured me in, but in reality the Bolognese was only ‘okay’ when compared to the others. Great tomato flavor and good ragu with an interesting texture the fried egg was largely lost amongst the other fatty flavors and in the end the overall taste was essentially that of a really good meatball sub. Certainly not a ‘bad’ sandwich by any means, just not as stunning as the others (and quite heavy considering the day’s eating plans.)

All in all a great spot run by some really good people my prior visit to Modo Mio and this visit to Paesano’s was more than enough to convince me to check out Monsu the next day and the trio along with Marc Vetri’s spots more than enough to cement Philly as my favorite place to eat Italian in the United States.

After Paesano’s Ray wanted to show me another Philly institution and so we hiked it down the street to John’s Water Ice – a space apparently established in 1945 and a favorite of many who grew up in the Italian (and surrounding) neighborhoods of Philadelphia. Featuring a limited menu of four flavors of water ice, four ice creams, and mixes referred to as gelati at bargain basement prices compared to your typical ice cream scoop-shops (and more so compared to the stellar Capogiro) we decided to sample the gamut – four small water ices for $1.50 each – and with no seating we took our Dixie cups a few steps away to enjoy.

Having never experienced water-ice before (aside from those things sold as ‘frozen lemonade’ at the zoo or Cedar Point) but watching it scooped up and smashed into the cups by a young man at the counter I rather assumed it would be icy and artificial flavored, but with our flavor selections included Chocolate, Cherry, Lemon, and Pineapple I was surprised to find each flavor well-suited to its namesake and despite being non-dairy, non-fat and cholesterol free the textures were creamy and rich, much like a sherbet. Certainly not as refined or interesting as gelato or designer ice cream, but the chocolate and cherry particularly tasty I definitely understand how these treats are emblematic of a hot summer’s day for folks in the area, particularly at the price, and although I can’t say I’d personally crave a water-ice or seek it out like a good scoop of gelato it is hard to argue with the price/quality ratio, particularly for food with nostalgic meaning to so many.

Not one to be satisfied by a few bites of water ice for dessert my last stop of the afternoon was at Frangelli’s Bakery on Ritner St, a very aged spot where I’d targeted an ice cream donut sandwich only to be thwarted by a lack of ice cream that day – a bummer indeed, but one compensated by the lovely staff who offered be a free glazed donut hot from the fryer in addition to making the stellar recommendation of a Blackberry Powdered Sugar Donut – $1 and back to the streets to enjoy.

Starting first with the glazed, a nice litmus test although not my favorite sort of fried pastry, the glaze had largely dried by the time I walked a few blocks and still warm the yeasty notes were quite nice, though the dough itself slightly thicker than I’d have hoped – not ‘doughy’ per se, but also not light and fluffy as one would expect – a texture about halfway between a cake donut and a yeasted raised one. Moving next to the filled option, thankfully not served hot as my first bite nearly left my shirt stained blue (and would have left my chin scorched if it were hot) I’ll just say this was about as good as a jelly donut gets – absolutely stuffed with blackberry compote they make in house, light yet toothsome, and loaded with powdered sugar. Somewhat akin to a Polish Paczki but not as dense, if you’re in the neighborhood I’d strongly recommend checking one out – a great end to the first half of day one in Philly.

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Federal Donuts, Food, Frangelli’s Bakery, French Toast, Green Eggs Cafe, Italian, John's Water Ice, Paesano's, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pork, Vacation

May 21, 2012
10:38 PM
by: Uhockey

Wit & Wisdom, Baltimore MD

The Gist: http://www.witandwisdombaltimore.com

The Why: With dinner already accounted for at Woodberry Kitchen and a great game at Camden Yard wrapping up it seemed apropos to head out for dessert and with my admiration for Michael Mina restaurants no secret it seemed only logical to visit Wit & Wisdom, home-kitchen of Food & Wine’s best new pastry chef of 2012, Chris Ford.

The Reservation: One was made via Opentable for 10:00pm and apparently on some sort of frequent-flyers list at Mina’s restaurants I received a very pleasant confirmation call the day prior telling me that the team was ‘looking forward to seeing me again’

The Setting: A great space inside the swanky Four Seasons along the Baltimore Waterfront the layout of Wit & Wisdom is quite interesting, the bar area swank and modern while the dining room is more ‘tavern-esque’ with painted white brick and a hearth next to an open kitchen with fires burning brighter than the fireplace, sturdy wooden tables, and plus leather chairs with metal rivets plus soft lighting both overhead and from lamps on dividers throughout the room. Seated with a full view of both the kitchen and a great vantage of the waterfront through the floor-to-ceiling windows the location is quite dramatic, a great place for food or cocktails and well stocked with patrons enjoying both even late on a Monday in May.

The Service: Having mentioned in my reservation that I was coming for coffee and dessert I was greeted first by my primary server, a young man named Joseph, and then by Chef Ford briefly as he was on his way home for the evening and promising me that I was “in good hands” with his team I was told I’d not be ordering dessert but instead being served a tasting of his favorites and that he hoped I’d brought an appetite, something I assured him wouldn’t be a problem…at least until I took a look at the evening’s savory menu and decided to also add a couple of appetizers.

The food and beverage: Two Appetizers, Coffee (complimentary,) and six desserts (complimentary.)

LA Mill Coffee: One of my favorite roasters and omnipresent on Mina’s menus from Baltimore to Detroit to Scottsdale to Vegas to San Jose this is a strong brew with both nutty tones and a bit of caramel linger that works perfectly with desserts, particularly any featuring chocolate.

Carolina gold rice ‘porridge’ with spring garlic pesto, hen egg, duck tongues & cracklins’: Essentially oversold and underwhelmed by the ‘congee’ at Woodberry Kitchen ($1Smilie: 8) the team at Wit & Wisdom came through in a big way with this dish, a $9 cast iron pot of bubbling toothsome rice with an egg yolk mixed in adding a bit of creaminess to the otherwise intensely savory blend of flavors. Rich and smooth but punctuated now and again by crispy onion rings and pork cracklins’ this was a dish tailored to my tastes and although not quite as impressive as that at Red Medicine a close runner up for best savory porridge I’ve encountered.

Hudson Valley foie gras tourchon with wild rice granola, red and green strawberries, rhubarb, pecans: Having mixed success with Michael Mina’s seared foie gras preps this $20 torchon would prove to be an inspired choice as the creamy torchon was paired with some nontraditional flavors in the form of the bitter green strawberries and clover greens plus a bit of crunchy puffed rice in addition to the standard sweets present in strawberries, strawberry jam, and candied nuts. Good on its own but far better spread on griddled brioche I spent quite a bit of time enjoying this dish leading to a Keller-esque replenishing of my bread with warm slices from the kitchen – a lovely gesture but probably the last thing I needed given the substantial amount of carbs consumed only a few hours earlier and those to follow (not to say I did not appreciate the gesture or that I didn’t indulge in it.)

Pineapple Lime and Green Tea Lemonade Sorbet: Ostensibly served to cleanse the palate before moving on to proper desserts these two quenelles sat atop shortbread crumble, both options refreshing and smooth but the former almost too sour without the crumble to add some balance.

Rhubarb – Strawberry Shortcake, Fromage Blanc Custard, Rhubarb Sorbet: The only dessert I probably would not have ordered based on its description I was admittedly quite fortunate to have this one ‘forced upon me’ with the rest of the tasting as the “shortcake” was literally made with little more than strawberries and a bit of four while the liquid nitrogen frozen custard and rhubarb threads provided a textural crunchy juxtaposition to the soft, dense cake and intense sorbet.

Red Velvet – Spiced Pecans, Chocolate, Cocoa Nib Ice Cream: Try as I might I remain a slave to my Midwestern palate and a cake > fruit/pie mentality, particularly red velvet and as such this dish really caught my attention in a big way – the deconstructed cake rife with cocoa while the slightly sweet yet spicy pecans lent a lot of kick. Finished with cocoa rocks, a dollop of milk chocolate cream, and bitter-sweet ice cream I was surprised to see something so rich this early in the tasting – at least until I saw what followed.

Banana Cream Puff – Chocolate, Coconut Tapioca, Hazelnut Sherbet: I was told I’d be served ‘demi-portions’ of the desserts as part of my tasting but this was clearly not the case with my first two items, or this one – the best of show in a very strong lineup. Featuring a baseball sized choux pastry with a caramelized sugar shell and an interior stuffed with banana pudding while whole hazelnuts, hazelnut sherbet, and dots of chocolate lined the plate what truly wowed here was the ‘tapioca’ – part actual tapioca cooked in coconut milk and part balls of actual coconut made with a mini-melon baller. If this is on the menu, get it.

Coffee and Cake – LAMILL Devil’s Food, Espresso Curd, Brown Butter Coffee Sherbet: A rather timid visual composition compared to the others this was essentially a molten chocolate cake with hefty notes of LAMILL triple-origin “Espress” filling the interior while milk foam and mild sherbet acted as a sort of cappuccino-froth topper to the intense cake. Delicious but definitely the least exciting of the quintet I actually liked the espresso-curd curly-queue the best of the bunch, a semi-solid cream that tasted precisely like the coffee I was drinking.

Baltimore Bar – Peanut, Pretzel, Chocolate: The only dessert dish that seems to cross boundaries from one Mina spot to the next, the “Baltimore Bar” (since experienced as the Bourbon Bar at Bourbon Steak Scottsdale) is every bit as decadent as it looks and given the total of day’s eating it was actually too rich to finish as the dark chocolate exterior, studded with peanuts and pretzels, housed a core of rich peanut butter mousse nearly as thick as actual peanut butter but substantially more creamy and sweet. Not one to be defeated by dessert I’ll note that the bar also held up quite well ‘to-go,’ a great post-run snack en route to Philadelphia the following morning.

The Verdict: …with a total bill of $29 before tax and tip for such a spectacle it is essentially impossible for me to be objective in my assessment of Wit&Wisdom and with that noted I will simply say that nearly every aspect of my visit was superlative and while I have never had the opportunity to meet Michael Mina himself I continue to have the utmost faith in his restaurants no matter where I travel – as much as the man’s food and desserts shine it is the overall ‘experience’ that keeps me coming back – an experience equally attributable to the staff as it is to the cuisine.

Posted in Baltimore, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, Maryland, Michael Mina, Pork, Tasting Menu, Vacation, Wit & Wisdom

May 21, 2012
5:48 PM
by: Uhockey

Woodberry Kitchen, Baltimore MD

The Gist: http://www.woodberrykitchen.com/

The Why: En route from Washington DC to Philadelphia I had one night in Baltimore, a Monday with the Orioles in town and time for both an early dinner as well as late dessert bookending a visit to Camden – the former an easy decision based on what I’d read about Spike Gjerde’s environmentally conscious, locally sourced, and impressively in-house focused Woodberry Kitchen.

Clearly a trend setter rather than one simply following the “farm to table” trend of the day Gjerde’s immense restaurant acts not only as a place to feed the customer, but also as a champion of brining, pickling, canning, curing, and cooking rustically – often with a wood fired oven using everything from carrot tops to the bones of the beasts with little to nothing going to waste. Rustic and restrained, housed in an old warehouse district with defunct factories converted to galleries and green living spaces the entire area seemed to fit the ethos of Woodberry Kitchen and perhaps unjustly I entered the space with very high expectations after wandering the area for approximately an hour before the restaurant opened its doors.

The Reservation: Opentable, one guest at 5:00pm – a necessity despite the large space as the restaurant would fill by 5:30pm with walk-ins being quoted at 45-60 minute wait even on “Meatless Monday.”

The Setting: Having mentioned the location in an old manufacturing area outside center city by a good five miles the restaurant itself is an interesting two-story space with an outdoor patio and an interior centered around the large open kitchen heavy with wood, concrete, and brick – a situation that admittedly formed a bit of an echo-plex as the room filled but not so loud that it was unpleasant. Having arrived at the restaurant’s opening, however, what I did find unpleasant was the seat I was provided – a small two-top in the loft where the hostess sat me facing a cold brick wall, though I guess I could look sideways down onto the floor of the main room…

The Service: Worse than the seat I was given would be the service that came along with it – a space largely ignored by everyone save for my server, Randy, who was admittedly pleasant enough but otherwise occupied by his other tables thus frequently leaving my water glass unfilled until I eventually switched to the other side of the table so that I could flag down assistance when necessary. Adding on substantial delays from the kitchen including a glaring error where they completely forgot to prepare my main course the phrase “trainwreck” (or worse) seemed quite appropriate leading me to do something I rarely find appropriate – asking to speak to the manager, a pleasant and apologetic young man who seemed well trained in the art of service-recovery.

The food: One non-alcoholic cocktail, complimentary bread service, three appetizers, one main course, one side, two desserts, and coffee.

Strawberries ‘n’ Cream – Strawberry, milk, rhubarb bitters: At $5 and featuring all local ingredients with the bitters made in house this was so good I ordered two; the flavor quite like Strawberry Rhubarb jam with a creamy finish (a la mode, perhaps?)

Bread Service: A changing rotation depending on whatever pastry chef Billington feels like baking that day the meal started out well with Ciabatta, Wheat Berry, and Yeasted Cornbread served in a little wooden box, still warm, with Trickling Spring butter. Dense with a great toothsomeness to it I particularly enjoyed the wheat berry option while the ciabatta was great for sopping up sauces. The cornbread? It was decent, but not even close to the version you pay for…

Warm Skillet Cornbread with Trickling Spring Butter, Cybee Honey: At $5 this is the steal of the menu for anyone who loves cornbread – each bite loaded with smoky notes and grounded in the sweet cornmeal base with whole kernels of corn lightly tinged with what I believe to be bacon grease. Lovely on its own but better with the honey this is apparently always on the menu and should always be ordered.

Rettland Farm Chicken Liver Spread with Warm Pullman Toasts, Prune, Red Lantern Jam: Say you take the intense sweetness of house dried plums and blend it with the subtle heat of sweet red peppers and serve it with ‘foie blond’ so creamy and light on mineral notes that you’re shocked that it isn’t duck or goose and then tell me you’re going to serve it alongside a pile of buttered toasts for a mere $10 in a portion easily large enough for two – if you can say those things then I say we can be pals.

Tilghman Island Crab Pot with Lump Crab, House Quark, Fish Pepper, Sherry, Toast: In case you’re not noticing the bread theme yet suffice it to say that the team at Woodberry Kitchen likes to bake and in this case toasting the daily breads and placing them alongside housemade crackers and a cast-iron pot of bubbling crab fondue with a splash of dry sherry and house-fermented fish sauce proved to be the best dish of the night. $14, ample, and not at all subtle this was precisely the sort of dish I expected from Gjerde (even if I did manage to scald my hard palate in my overzealousness.)

Wood Roasted Asparagus, Pecan Cream, ‘ewe’s dream’: After a nearly one hour delay this side dish arrived and although the manager opted to remove the $8 from my bill I’d have gladly paid double that for perfectly cooked asparagus topped with funky cheese and subtle cream – the entirety of the dish tasting like it had just emerged from a smoker and a great point/counterpoint to my main course.

Slow Cooked Anson Mills Gold Rice with Slow Poached Whitmore Egg, Turnips and their Tops, Scallions, Pickled Fish Pepper: At $18 (also taken off my bill for the substantial delay) this was the most expensive dish from the “Meatless Monday” special menu and although billed as ‘sort of like congee’ the dish was decidedly nothing like congee – the rice too firm, the egg overcooked and barely runny, and only the butter cooked turnips and scallions really providing any flavor. Admittedly entirely forgotten by the kitchen until I brought this to Randy’s kitchen my only explanation for the poor quality was that it was rushed, but all things being equal this dish plate was an unmitigated disaster and most of it went back downstairs untouched.

Finca Nueva Armenia from Guatemala: From Counter Culture and a mere $4 for a French Press this aromatic and cocoa accented brew arrived with a timer so that I could press it myself after a minute and provided with a free refill by the manager when he came to my table after the side/main issue the quality of the coffee at Woodberry Tavern, much like the majority of the food, far outshines its pricetag.

Carrot Cake with Quark Icing, Pecan Brittle, Carrot Top Ice Cream: Not ordered but offered by the house presumably because I inquired about the ice cream I received no bill for this $8 dish and with a base slightly caramelized, the cake itself moist and dense, and the icing far more funky and interesting than your standard cream cheese it was a welcomed addition to the meal. Regarding the ice cream – yeah – not at all named after the ‘comedian,’ this harkens to my comment about nothing going to waste, the greens from the carrots turned into a creamy vegetal treat that tasted clean and fresh, particularly when paired with the cake.

CMP: My proper dessert of the evening and a restaurant signature this $11 Sundae was not your standard boring vanilla sundae but instead a restrained sweet meets savory juxtaposition of malt Ice Cream, wet peanuts, and house made chocolate sauce plus marshmallow fluff covered by a crystal sugar shell. Reminiscent of my favorite childhood dessert, the Reese’s Pieces Sundae at Friendly’s, but clearly all grown up this was the sort of food that stirred good memories and a very necessary pick-me-up after the main course debacle.

The Verdict: With the pre-tax/tip bill reduced to a mere $54 the GM presented the bill himself to my table and again apologized for the seating and service issues noting that he too did not understand why a solo diner would be placed so far from the action and assuring me that such a thing would not happen to ‘anyone again under his watch’ and with the bill paid I was greeted once more at the door where I was gifted a $50 Gift Card should I ever choose to return – something that everything about the food and concept of Woodberry Kitchen suggests I should do the next time I’m near Baltimore (assuming the experience is ‘under his watch.’)

Posted in Baltimore, Bread Basket, Coffee, Cornbread, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Maryland, Vacation, Woodberry Kitchen

May 21, 2012
12:38 PM
by: Uhockey

Fiola, Washington DC

The Gist: http://www.fioladc.com/

The Why: Fabio Trabocchi is sort of a big deal in the Washington culinary landscape and having never had the opportunity to experience his cuisine at Maestro I was excited to hear about the soon-to-open Fiola on my first visit to Washington DC and placed it on the short list for my return visit. Hailing from Le Marche and focused on a style of food not exactly Roman or Tuscan but instead a sort of amalgam of myriad Italian styles and heavily seafood focused I was admittedly a bit torn at first as to whether I should attend for lunch or the more expansive dinner so that I could try more things but this conundrum remedied itself when a fellow gourmand – or three – reached out and invited me and invited me in for lunch, one of them a friend of Fabio who requested a few items from the dinner menu be added to the lunch.

The Reservation: As above, a table for four was booked by a friend of the chef for noon.

The Setting: Located on prime real estate on Pennsylvania Avenue the restaurant is upscale and bright even when the weather is less than ideal. Solid wooden tables appearing with patterns featuring the rings of trees and a large bar seat at least a hundred while high ceilings and textured walls from stone to glass to wood and florals give the space a warm and rustic feel that continues to the stoneware plating. Clearly conducive to echoes given the materials involved it should be noted that Fiola is not a ‘quiet’ restaurant, but taking into account the Batali and White restaurants of New York Fiola certainly is not loud.

The Service: While I will note that the restaurant was incredibly busy even at a Monday lunch the service still seemed off, our primary server Sigel seemingly unable to read a guest as he prattled on and on about each dish even as we tried to order. Certainly not expecting ‘special’ treatment despite one of my co-diners being known to the restaurant I also did not expect a restaurant of this caliber (rated amongst the top 10 in the city) to leave water glasses unfilled, leave dirty plates around for extended periods of time, or to not replace silverware between courses.

The food and drink: Four Pasta, Two Risotto, Two Proteins, and Three Desserts plus complimentary bread service.

Croissant Rolls with olive oil and sea salt: To the best of my knowledge there is nothing traditionally Italian about these rolls but be that as it may be every bite of every roll was excellent – possibly the best single option bread service I’ve ever experienced at a restaurant. Slightly buttery with a crisp shell and fluffy interior crumb the olive oil was not really necessary, but with slight fruity notes overlying a grassy base and plenty of crunch added by the sea salt I ate more than a couple of these and probably would have had more if the servers had been more attentive.

Cavatelli – Sardinian Ricotta Gnocchi + Guanciale + Tomatoes: Our first pasta of the afternoon was, in my opinion, the weakest of the group in terms of texture but the boldest in flavor as the gnocchi themselves were a bit overcooked leading to a slightly rubbery body. A rustic presentation rife with both sweetness and acid held in check by the briny pork and caramelized onions this dish was more than enough in terms of portion – a good dish to share, though I’d have been hard pressed to eat a whole plate at the exclusion of other better executed options.

Fiola Lobster Ravioli: Probably Trabocchi’s most famous dish and commanding a $34 premium (generally only on the dinner menu) it would be hard to mess up a dish consisting of lobster and mascarpone stuffed pasta drowning in buttery sauce with a whole split lobster tail at its side but given the substantial hype about this dish I guess I expected to be ‘blown away,’ while I was instead simply impressed by fresh and sweet lobster paired with butter, something that any number of restaurants can do equally well at a similar cost – certainly not a ‘bad’ dish, but not exactly what I picture as a ‘signature’ either.

Cacio & Pepe – Spaghetti Chitarra + Cacio Cheese + Black Pepper Roman Style: Perfectly al dente Hand-cut spaghetti, creamy cheese with a fruity nose, a bit of olive oil, salt, and black pepper – simple, delicious, and for a dish so easy to prepare but so difficult to perfect this was as good as I’ve tasted.

Potato Gnocchi of Venetian Style Cod + Calamari + Scallops: The highlight of the meal for me and another special request from the dinner menu this dish featured two of my very favorite things combined into one – salt cod brandade dumplings. Rich and rife with notes of olive oil and chives each tender dumpling was lightly touched with red pepper while the addition of tender calamari and sweet scallops served only to gild the proverbial lily. A highlight of the meal and one of my favorite dishes of 2012 it was the one dish I regretted having to share.

Tuscan Vitello Tonnato with Baby Artichoke Salad: Raved by some as a must order but myself not a fan of veal’s taste or texture this simply was not my style. Decidedly tender and smothered in a fishy sauce reminiscent of mayonnaise just as it should be I tasted a bite and that was enough, though I did quite like the tender artichokes resting atop the pile.

Venetian Squid Ink Risotto and Scallops: Superlative scallops with a bit of butter foam and rice as black as night, creamy yet subtly toothsome, and imbued with mascarpone this was without a shadow of a doubt the best risotto I’ve ever had, or at least one of two…

Braised Veal Cheeks + Risotto Milanese “Ossobuco Style”: Yes, as much as I favor seafood over beef it would be hard for me to choose which risotto I most preferred at Fiola that afternoon – this option absolutely teaming with saffron, garlic, and notes of white wine while supple beef cheeks in a hearty beef gravy rested atop the rice. Buttery as opposed to creamy but equally well textured it should go without saying that if risotto is on the menu at Fiola it must be ordered.

Arctic Char + Porcini Crema + Barbera + Rosemary: With skin more fatty than crisp and flesh tender but rather uninspired this was not a dish I’d have selected if I were dining on my own and much like the Vitello a bite or two went a long way, though I will admit I sopped up more than a little of the rich and aromatic mushroom sauce with a roll and would have gladly enjoyed the “crema” as a soup.

La Zuppa Inglese – Trifle of Strawberry + Granita of Lemon and Basil: Light and almost flavorless aside from the lemon cream I rather liked the use of textures here but would have certainly preferred a bit more sweet, sour, or something to make it pop.

Fiola Tart: A bit more my speed than the Zuppa this dense cake featured a rich chocolate cookie crust topped with caramel ganache, hazelnut paste that I’m rather certain was blended with fig, and oatmeal streusel all lending to a flavor profile that was at once fruity, nutty, and entirely sweet. Interesting to be sure but the sort of dish where a bite was enough to suffice my curiosity this would have made a better mignardise than a proper dessert.

Bomboloni and Affogato: Sure the concept of coffee and donuts has been done more than once but featuring sugary donuts with a crisp exterior and light crump alongside Stracciatella Gelato and Espresso this was a nice example and the best if a rather weak showing of sweets.

The Verdict: With tax and tip for a group of four we ended up spending nearly $75/pp for lunch and although the room and property clearly command a premium I couldn’t help but feel that all-in-all the meal should have been better, particularly the dessert, the service and the secondi – though I admit that I personally would not have ordered either the Vitello, the Char, or the Zuppa if left to my own devices. A nice spot in a city where there is a lot of Italian but none across-the-board good I’d gladly return for the pasta and the risotto while saving the antipasti and secondi for Elisir or elsewhere.

Posted in Bread Basket, DC, Dessert, Fiola, Food, Gnocchi, Italian, Lobster, Pork, Vacation, Washington

May 21, 2012
6:24 AM
by: Uhockey

Old Ebbitt Grill, Washington DC

The Gist: http://www.ebbitt.com/main/home.cfm?Section=Main&Category=About_the_Ebbitt

The Why: I was told that you go to The Old Ebbitt Grill for the history, not for the food, and considering my proclivity for the later I’d passed on Old Ebbitt during my first visit to Washington DC and had considered skipping it again until a ridiculous storm of wind and rain plus lunch plans in the area changed my mind. In other words, it was warm, dry, and convenient.

The Reservation: None made, and arriving only ten minutes after they opened the doors none was needed.

The Setting: Near to the Whitehouse and a favorite of presidents of both the distant and recent past as well as tourists (and even some locals) The Old Ebbitt is antique, Victorian, and impressively well maintained. A large space with multiple rooms, bars, art, and heavy tables with plush seating the space is certainly dated but at the same time very comfortable, a space of a bygone era with character to spare.

The Service: In a word, fantastic. Greeted at the door and ushered in with my umbrella kept near the hostess stand to dry I was led to a large 4-top in the center of the room where I was greeted by a young lady named Jessica who not only offered menus, water, coffee, and excellent service throughout my stay but also the local paper and some memorabilia/post cards about the restaurant (plus her own personal anecdotes about the pains of being a Redskins fan for many years.)

The Food and Drink – Coffee, Pastry, Main Course.

Bottomless Coffee: Pretty standard stuff here; served piping hot with warm milk and five types of sweetener the cup never reached less than half full.

Blueberry Muffin with Butter: House made and served warm with whipped butter this muffin was actually far better than I’d have hoped with the top delicate, light, and slightly caramelized while the base was dense with a fluffy and buttery crumb. While more blueberries at center would have been ideal, there were certainly enough at the periphery.

The Breakfast Club: Told that this was the “only thing worth ordering” at Old Ebbitt by a friend I have to say this sandwich of ham and bacon stuffed French toast definitely lived up to the hype as the sweet meets savory blend not only shined in the flavor department, but also in terms of texture with the custard soaked bread and crispy bacon in great balance while a sidecar of pure Vermont maple syrup and fresh fruit added enough sweetness without overwhelming the savory.

The Verdict: Touristy or not and dated or not I really enjoyed my breakfast at Old Ebbitt and would happily return. Excellent service and a great space to sit and relax (or to let the weather pass) I’ll admit my sampling of the food was limited but also note that what I had was quite good while the opportunity to wander the space and explore the rooms was by itself worth the price of admission.

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, DC, French Toast, Old Ebbitt Grill, Pork, Washington

May 20, 2012
8:22 PM
by: Uhockey

Trummer’s on Main, Clifton VA

 

The Gist: http://trummersonmain.com/

The Why: Staying with family in Clifton while visiting DC posed only one problem; the logistics of driving into the nation’s capital each day – a small problem to a tourist, but more so to the locals who have to deal with the traffic on a daily basis. Wanting to thank my uncle for the hospitality but with an eye on quality and convenience I was surprised to hear about Trummer’s, a restaurant mere miles from his home housed in a historic setting with a Thomas Keller trained chef.

The Reservation: Opentable, reservations for two on a Sunday Night.

The Setting: Built in 1869 as the Clifton Hotel and nestled in the small town of Clifton (and its multi-million dollar mansions) Trummer’s on Main is historic to say the least. A former house to presidents and diplomats the three story space has been substantially renovated with time and visiting on a late spring day the space was bathed with light, no space moreso than the large glass-encased dining room looking out on a waterfall, trees, and outdoor garden. Spacious and historic (ask for a tour, they’ll happily oblige) but a bit warmer than I’d have preferred the restaurant seats at least two-hundred while the bar, copious wine cellar, and private rooms are all decorated in light woods, oil paintings, and heavy textures.

The Service: With the dining room packed for the bargain “Sunday Supper” service was friendly enough, though our primary server – a young woman named Joy – was clearly assigned too many tables thus rendering dish presentations perfunctory at best while back servers kept water filled and dirty plates off the table.

The Food and Drink: $38 3-course Prix Fixe, Complimentary Bread and Butter, Mignardises, and “$5 Bucket List” wine.

Domaines Fabre Château de la Clapiere Rosé 2011: One of the main draws of the Sunday menu at Trummer’s is the “Bucket List,” a collection of wines that were opened on either Friday or Saturday but not used up on the tasting menu or a la carte and thus offered at $5 a glass on Sunday. Fruity, spicy, and pleasantly dry I really liked this wine on first taste while my uncle sampled through three reds while we dined.

White Roll with Local Sweet Butter: A sort of crunchy white roll that I’m rather certain was fortified with potato giving it a fluffy moist crumb the single bread option at Trummer’s was quite addictive and the bread server remained busy throughout the evening as it seemed every table requested seconds (or in our case thirds and fourths)

Scallop Tempura with Spaghetti Squash, Cilantro, Ponzu Butter: Considering the price and setting the portions at Trummer’s were quite impressive, my first course featuring a U-8 Scallop in light batter over a curl of shredded spaghetti squash, cubes of summer squash, and sweet ponzu butter. Clearly pan seared before a short visit to the fryer the scallop was nicely flavored and its natural sweetness was enhanced by the ponzu while the pair or squashes helped add balance.

Oven Roasted and Honey Glazed Pork Shoulder with Plum Wine Pineapple, Bay Leaf Crumble, Sweet Potato: Ample in portion but even more so in flavor the story of this dish began with the quality of the pork, easily cut with a fork and melting in the mouth, and continued along to the accoutrements; a composition of flavors both sweet and savory that harkened something tropical without overwhelming the pig in the least. Generally not overly fond of bay leaf I was particularly impressed by the crumble in this case, a amalgam of the aromatic leaf and crushed pistachio.

Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Ice Cream, Rhum Raisins, Coconut: Another balance of sweet and savory I’d suggest that if this is on the menu at Trummer’s it should be ordered. Dense and rife with carrots while boozy raisins were tempered by semi-sweet ice cream this is precisely the sort of dessert I love while my uncle went so far as to call it the best carrot cake he had ever tasted.

Coconut Marshmallows: Free, and in terms of taste the very essence of coconut, though a bit more sticky and dense than I’d prefer.

The Verdict: An absolute bargain in a rather impressive setting I was admittedly surprised by my meal at Trummer’s on Main and although I would not place it on the “destination” list with places like Ashby Inn, VOLT Table 21, or The Inn at Little Washington for persons living in the DC area I certainly would not hesitate to return for a full a la carte or tasting experience in the future.

Posted in Bread Basket, Clifton, DC, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, Trummer's on Main, Vacation, Virginia