During my most recent visit to New York City leisurely breakfasts were not quite as leisurely as usual; with the conference beginning by 8:00am each day the ideal would be a place that was either grab and go or a spot that opened by 7:00am where I could be in and out within forty minutes, the later a descriptor I was assured fit “Ca Va Brasserie by Todd English” when I inquired via E-mail.Bearing in mind the mixed reviews and English’s every growing empire I decided to give it a chance – the menu looked interesting and my prior experience with English at P.U.B. in Las Vegas was a good one despite some sloppy.With a table for one booked at 7:00am and an early wakeup call to make it to the gym for a long run prior to the cross town trek the agenda was set.
Navigating a particularly windy Monday morning and arriving at the expansive Broadway Theater District location at 6:50am I was pleased to find the doors open and even happier that they were ready to seat me at such an early time.Having already had coffee at my hotel prior to the walk and with my order already known I asked the server if it would be possible to simply place my order before looking at the menu and my order was indulged without delay. Sitting solo and browsing a complimentary copy of the Times from the lobby I must admit I was somewhat underwhelmed by the non-descript room of wooden tables and brown chairs – impersonal as it was, however, the French theme pop music playing overhead was innocuous and the servers all smiles.
Having originally Okayed the team to bring both my appetizer and my main course simultaneously for timing purposes it would be just shy of 7:15 when my order would arrive. Beginning first with the appetizer – one of my very favorite things served in a particularly clever manner. Titled TOASTED CROQUE MADAME ‘FINGERS’ soft cooked egg, country ham, gruyère, and mornay sauce this was nearly a course from my childhood all grown up.Always the kid who preferred my eggs “sunny side up” so I could dip my toast in the yolk this take on the classic croquet madame was just that – a buttery golden brioche sandwich of country ham and gruyere with a poached egg and mornay sauce in a jar made for dipping.Creamy, crunchy, savory, and piping hot this was one of the better croques I’ve had in New York and though the portion to price ratio was a bit skewed to the later the quality justified the expense.
For my “main course” of breakfast, BRIOCHE FRENCH TOAST with caramelized bananas, nutella drizzle, graham crumble, and fresh fruit was the order of the morning and again this was a top notch dish.Two thick slices cooked to a golden tan on the exterior and nearly custard within the French Toast itself was exactly the sort I like while the accoutrements were all superior for late March.Particularly lovely were the nearly ping-pong ball sized raspberries and the crunchy bruleed bananas.Served with Bonne maman honey and local Wood homestead pure maple syrup I certainly sweetened the deal, but in reality the dish was plenty sweet even before dressing it up
With the check requested at the time my plates were delivered I will note that the servers visited me more than once as I ate to make sure all was well and to refill my water. With my credit card given early on the check was paid by the time I finished and by the time plates were collected my tip was added and I was ready to go – the time was 7:39.Bidding my server farewell and returning the Times to the rack I made my way out the door and was in my seat at The Hilton by 7:55 sated, happy, and ready to…wait since the first speaker of the morning had apparently not received such efficient service wherever he was that morning.
I’d found out we would be presenting at The 2nd World Congress on Interventional Therapies for Type 2 Diabetes in New York much later than I would have preferred.Don’t get me wrong, being selected to present at the Congress was an honor and it is not that I don’t love New York – but the fact of the matter was that I’d just been there the month prior and I was due to fly to Paris a mere 10 days after the Congress.Add in the fact that I’d had zero days off since my last trip due to working plenty of overtime to help offset some of the upcoming travel bills AND that this issue had me flying into New York after an overnight shift…eh, who am I kidding – sleep or no sleep I love to eat, I love New York and its people, and I love pizza – a confluence of interests that led to myself and three locals to meeting up for a Tour of some of Brooklyn’s (and America’s) most highly regarded Pizza spots.
With Steve 2 (as opposed to Steve 1) graciously offering to pick me up from LGA and Steve 1 (as opposed to Steve 2) graciously willing to do the leg work on getting to our first stop early to order the pie the “hop” would begin around 1:30pm at DiFara – a spot considered by many to be the best Pizza in America and often with an hour-plus line befitting such distinction – something I’d prefer avoid at any time, but particularly on my 34th sleepless hour save for a quick nap on the plane – thankfully luck was on our side and the drive went quickly, free parking was easily found, and by the time we arrived the pizza was in the oven.
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With pleasantries exchanged and promises of the fourth member of our group, Laura, arriving shortly the next ten or so minutes were spent talking about the history of the space, Dom’s meticulous methods, and the neighborhood.With news clippings as the small space’s only decoration and Dom meticulously crafting each pie while his daughter and son worked the counter and back room the space was packed – not a seat to be had – and as such when our first pie was ready we opted to eat right at the counter.
For our first taste of the day it would be a round pie – DiFara’s signature – half plain and half with mushrooms and semi-sun-dried tomatoes.While not truly “Neapolitan” given the style of the ancient oven and overall tender-yet-crisp chew to the crust, there is no doubt that the pie was the result of a serious craftsman working with serious ingredients.With the dough barely capable of supporting the trio of cheeses, sweet tomatoes, herbs, and dousing of extra virgin olive oil let alone the toppings and hand snipped basil each slice was a steaming hot oozing mélange of flavor – some dark and bubbly, others less crisp and more chewy.Preferring my pizza with a bit more rigidity I cannot say this was the best pie I’ve ever tasted, but I definitely understand the appeal and would certainly not hesitate to return.
With our fourth adventurer arriving the next item to arrive from the oven was the Sicilian – an enormous pie with just the essentials – that marvelous blend of cheese, an ample coating of San Marzano tomatoes, a lacquer of olive oil, and that hand snipped basil.An enormous pie – easily enough to feed four, this pizza was what I’d hoped for – it was perhaps the best “thick” slice of pizza I’ve ever encountered.With a buttery crust not unlike that of a deep dish in the Windy City but far more textural and nuanced each slice stood up admirably to the bounty of ingredients without being “too heavy” – a delicate balance that few pizzas manage.With myself eating three slices of the Sicilian and the others eating a slice or two each there was plenty to spare; thankfully it was boxed up and kept in Steve 2’s car or I’d have surely eaten more.Making our way from the small restaurant to our cars I remembered what a friend once told me about DiFara’s and I can’t say it any better myself – “You don’t go there just too eat Pizza – you go there to experience Pizza as an art form crafted by a master.”
Continuing along our previously determined route – 2 persons per car – our next stop would be one of the oldest in Brooklyn – L&B Spumoni Gardens.Having heard of this space from some local friends in the past but having never seen it mentioned on a “best of” list (actually, most of what I’d heard was quite negative aside from two glowing recommendations of the namesake Spumoni) I went into the experience with modest expectations – expectations seemingly warranted by the rather unkempt clientele (think track suits and fake-gold chains) and gaudy exterior (thinkneon lights)…..plus Steve 1’s statement that he wanted to bring us here as a “contrast” to DiFara’s – and that he wasn’t going to order any pizza.
More a full-fledged eatery than DiFara’s or the other spaces on our trip, the first thing I noted when entering the non-pizza half of L&B was the smell – it wasn’t “bad” but it reminded me of the ketchup factory near where I grew up – not a good sign since I saw spaghetti sauce and not a Heinz bottle.Following Steve 1’s lead and first ordering a small spumoni for a little over $2 I have to admit that although I’m pretty sure there was nothing artisan about the ingredients or organic about the colors this was some tasty ice cream – a bit more icy than creamy but absolutely loaded with faux-pistachio flavor, buttery almond/vanilla, and Hershey’s kisses tasting chocolate.
Making our way next door where Steve 2 and Laura had already taken a seat I was greeted by a burly smiling fellow serving up slices and when I ordered a single slice he gifted me a second for free as there were only two left in the pan – a nice gesture, even if it would turn out to be wasted.Taking a seat and subsequently a bite I instantly noted the previously “contrast” – this square slice was pretty terrible.With a doughy crust not terribly different from the frozen sort you’d expect from Costco topped with a sort of briny and bland sauce and grated parmesan plus what was undoubtedly bagged mozzarella (perhaps from Costco?) the only fair comparison I can make is to the square slices served up at Little Caesars in Joe Louis Arena when I was a child…a pizza I never really liked, but a pizza I always finished due to the excessive arena price and a pizza I’ll always remember due to the location.Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately?) for L&B the price was bargain basement so I had no trouble placing the second slice in the trash before leaving the memorable (for better or worse?) location.
Hopping to our cars and navigating the suddenly stiff traffic our next stop would be a somewhat “new kid” on the block – at least compared to our previous two visits.Opened in 2008 with a second location now inhabiting the abandoned Una Pizza location on the LES and considered by some (including the much maligned Sam Sifton,) to be the best in the city, I entered Motorino hoping for something revelatory and arriving just after 4:00pm I also entered a restaurant less than half full – another bit of good fortune given the fact that the journey was less than half over.
Seated quickly and offered beverages by our server, a young lady named Bryana who was friendly if not efficient, Steve 1 and I decided to place the order before the others arrived in order to save time.Given the fact that we were dining with two vegetarians both pies were ordered half-meat/half-without, though we were warned that we’d be charged full price regardless.With Steve opting for a Sprecher’s Root Beer and myself sticking with water it would be only a short while before the others would arrive – free parking yet again – and perhaps 20 minutes before the pizzas would arrive from the hand crafted oven.
Opting against standard options despite the fact that their margherita is quite well thought of, our first selection was the Pugliese with burrata, broccolini, chili flakes, garlic, and half sausage.Arriving still bubbly from the oven with nicely charred edges and a crust that was slightly puffy but crisp and not overly doughy due to what I believe was cornmeal, the mélange of flavors was perfectly balanced and although quite hot on the tongue, excellent.Obviously Neapolitan in influence with a wet center and plenty of olive oil the toppings were present in plethora and each bite was as good as the first.
Digging into the second pizza – a pie that landed on Food and Wine’s 25-best Pizzas in America this year – it was at this point that the restaurant began to fill up and also when I noticed the cheesy 80s pop music overhead.Normally I’d be a stickler for the sort of restaurant that could go from calm and welcoming to noisy and hip in a matter of seconds, but this time it barely mattered as I devoured my slice of Brussels Sprouts pizza with fior di latte, garlic, smoked pancetta, and pecorino.Similar in presentation to the first and definitely one of the more unique “new-style” flavor combinations I’ve experienced anywhere I was simply floored by the complementary nature of each flavor – every one acting to coax out subtleties from its partners without stealing the stage…it was only after we left that I realized I never tasted their tomato sauce – a misstep I’ll certainly have to correct on my next visit, though probably at the Manhattan spot and during brunch as I’d like to check out the egg pizza in addition to the oft-raved tiramisu for dessert.
For our next stop – let’s just say we left Motorino just on time, and barely.With traffic thinned out substantially we actually made excellent time trekking to Carroll Gardens but unfortunately there were no parking to be found for a good twenty minutes – twenty long minutes that would lead us past no less than four pizza parlors including our eventual destination – Lucali – yet another location dubbed by various national publications as the best Pizza in America.
With Steve-1 showing off his parallel parking skills a mere block away it was a quick walk to the doors of the small space and despite arriving at 5:45 we were thwarted – the first table available would be 7:15 according to the young lady at the door.Standing and waiting to inform our dining partners of the news and feeling a tad discouraged what happened next still leaves me puzzled, but regardless of the reason (I’m pretty sure the Pizza Gods simply loved our ambition) after approximately five minutes of waiting one of the folks ahead of us in line opted out of her seat and suddenly we owned a 6:00pm table for four.
With Steve telling us stories of Mark Iacono’s ground up (literally – he built the oven, the tables, and the chairs) operation and the months spent watching Dom make pies in order to perfect the art door to Lucali would open at six on the dot and we were quickly ushered in a table near the front – close enough to the window for some natural light to blend with the candles, but also with a great view of Mark as he worked the dough and chopped ingredients in a nearly Zen-like fashion – head always up and watching the room as a stark contrast to Dom’s nearly non-stop eye contact with the pie.
With only two options on the blackboard – Pizza or Calzone – and perhaps ten total ingredients to top the pie we opted for a single pie to split amongst the four of us – half with artichoke, half with portabella.Watching Mark work the dough, top it carefully, and place it in the wood burning brick oven while my friends chatted I had no doubt it was going to be good – it was like watching a ballet – but I had no idea it was going to be the best pizza I’ve ever tasted.
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With a thin crust – crispy, light, and irregularly bubbled yet able to hold up to the ingredients with ease, sweet tomato sauce with a hint of smoke and basil, and handmade mozzarella at its base the pie was exemplary.Pliable yet toothsome, sweet yet savory, slightly soggy at the center but not oversaturated with oil – really, no, I can’t top exemplary as a descriptor.Add on simple yet flawless mushrooms and sautéed artichoke hearts – my heart melted with each bite because I knew that at the end of the day I’d have to go back to eating Pizza that wasn’t this good.
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With the bill ($26 for a single pie) paid and our flirty server heckling us when we suggested we were heading elsewhere for more pizza (note, Mark’s brother recently opened a Pizzeria and we probably should have gone there too) we made our way outside to find the line longer than when we entered – clearly others already knew what I’d just learned – that something this good is something worth waiting for.
Walking away from Lucali towards the car, Steve-1’s wife would catch up with us for the final stop of our tour – the newest kid on the block and the only one that no one in our group had ever visited – Paulie Gee’s.A bit out of the way, decidedly hipster-trendy, and featuring an esoteric craft beer list and unique toppings (and names) for their pies I’m not sure any of us really knew what to expect, but when we arrived to a 20-30 minute wait it seemed that no matter what was inside it clearly had people lining up to experience it.
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Standing and chatting in the entry way as the wind outside had gotten a little too chilly for comfort it was only a matter of moments before we were inside at the bar and perhaps fifteen minutes total before we were seated.With the space quite dark and the noise level energetic but not deafening we shared a communal table for ten halfway between the entrance and the handmade stone oven and despite the packed nature of the space our service was excellent throughout the night.Starting with 2 pizzas and a bottle of wine as late 70’s/early 80’s rock played overhead I must say that of all the places we visited on the trek this was definitely the most fun and our conversation the most lively.
Opting for one tomato sauce pie and one of the more out of the ordinary options, each with half meat, our first choice was the “Regina” – a bubbly pie with a lot of character featuring Fior di Latte, Italian Tomatoes, Pecorino Romano, Olive Oil, Prosciutto di Parma, and Fresh Basil.With the cheese reportedly made from unpasteurized cow’s milk the flavor was surprisingly intense (with a likely assist from the Pecorino) and the other toppings fresh, but what made this pie stand out for me was the spring to the crust – it wasn’t quite as Neapolitan “wet” at the center but instead had a hearty “chew” throughout without being “chewy” – a fine line many pies fail to walk so carefully.
For our second pie it seemed the rest of the table was finally beginning to get full (or else they just felt the need to indulge me as I ended up with three slices) but without overstating I think I can say it was one of the most unique pizza’s I’ve ever tasted.Titled Cherry Jones and featuring the same lovely Fior di Latte this time paired with Gorgonzola Cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, Dried Bing Cherries and Orange Blossom Honey – there really isn’t much I can say that you can’t imagine from the ingredients.Sweet meets savory, smoky meets creamy – all on that same fantastic springy crust – it could’ve been a main or dessert.Actually, for everyone but myself it was dessert.
Call me crazy or call me a glutton, but a great meal without dessert just seems wrong and part of the reason I decided on Paulie Gee’s as our last stop was indeed the dessert menu – a compellation of dessert pizzas, baked goods, and ice creams including one that really struck my interest – Van Leeuwen Artisan Dark Chocolate Ice Cream topped with Baconmarmalade.That’s right – deep, rich, velvety ice cream made with Michel Cluizel chocolate topped with crisp bacon reduced in spices to form a spicy pork “spread.”I really don’t need to tell you how sinfully good this was – I only wish the marmalade had been interspersed in the chocolate before it began to harden, but that was nothing a little bit of mashing with the spoon couldn’t handle.Thick Vosges Mo’s Bacon Bar, but Ice Cream, Spicy, and Better.
Having consumed 14 slices plus the ice cream and at that point going on my 40th sleepless hour (with a presentation to do the following day, no less) we settled the bill and made our way to the streets with some members of our group marveling at the fact that we’d just spent nearly 8 hours eating pizza but no one was overly full – a testament to good planning, excellent timing, spreading a meal out over time, and a lot of luck.With Steve-2 graciously (again) offering to drive me back to Manhattan I bid farewell to Steve-1 and his wife, climbed into the car, and surprisingly even managed to stay awake during the drive back to Manhattan.A great experience with great people – honestly, there is nothing I’d have changed…next visit; Manhattan Pizza Crawl.Who’s in?
Rustic Italian pastas and Emilia-Romagna region brunch foods from the kitchen of a man who’d produced some of my favorite all time Italian meals; I figured the last meal of my most recent trip to New York to be a slam dunk.First a stellar impromptu dinner at Alto, later a superlative lunch at Convivio, and last a slightly less than excellent experience at Marea – Osteria Morini by Michael White was on my dining radar before it even it opened its doors.With glowing reviews rolling in and nearly four hours at MoMA and Barney’s plus the long walk down to SoHo (with luggage in hand) my expectations were admittedly high…
Planning in advance and leaving a plentiful 4.5 hours between the start of my brunch and my plane’s departure from LGA I walked up to the small space expecting a crowd, but on entering the doors it was quite the opposite – perhaps 1/2 of the restaurant was full and the “deafening” noise I’d heard rumored was largely absent.Approaching to podium my reservation was confirmed by a young woman who asked whether I’d prefer a table or the “chef’s counter” – essentially the bar up front where salads, salumi, and cheese were being prepared.Opting for the counter given my proclivity for watching the kitchen I was seated quickly while my bag and coat were checked.
With two young ladies working the line in relative silence, my server Sarah P. would soon arrive with the daily menu and inquire as to whether I would prefer iced or bottled water.Opting for iced water I was additionally offered coffee – an offer I assented to before turning back to a menu I’d already studied online and comparing it to the daily specials, none of which sounded all that special.Returning with my water Sarah asked if I had any questions and when I asked unfortunately informed me that half-orders of pasta could not be accommodated, even though I’d planned to order three to taste.Disappointed but understanding I asked her which of the three she would suggest and went with her choice plus a secondi.
Waiting for approximately 15 minutes while listening to one of the line cooks gripe about her hours and her social life to other cook and the bartender my coffee would arrive first – a 20oz Bodum French Press that was dropped off by an ancillary server without a word.A bold and nutty blend I cannot say who the provider was, but I will note that had I known it came in a press that did not include refills I’d have held off till dessert as it didn’t particularly pair well with either my pasta or my secondi.
With another delay of perhaps 10 minutes I noted that every other table and every person at the bar had bread to pair with the bottle of house olive oil at the table save for myself.Inquiring with the line cook who continued to sulk she mentioned this to one of the ancillary servers who eventually returned with a basket of cool but tasty rustic Italian bread with a hearty crust and spongy crumb.With no plate to contain the Olive Oil I set my coffee cup on the bar and used my saucer to taste the oil – clean, grassy, but not as tasty as I recall from Alto or Marea.
Shortly after eating a first slice of bread my pasta would arrive with zero description and the ancillary server who delivered it would then proceed to pick up the still-full bread basket and waltz away.More than a little frustrated at this point but not wanting the food to suffer, I picked up my fork and took a bite of the tortellini a piaciere with duck liver panna – what I tasted, largely, was…nothing.Thinking the coffee may have blunted my taste buds a second bite would follow and offer a bit more – a hint of salt, the faint smack of duck, and an interior that was so benign that it could have been foie gras, I guess, but when paired with the tough parcels of pasta it was tough to tell.Compared to the foie gras pastas at Scarpetta and Babbo this was a letdown of the utmost proportions.
Disappointed, water glass empty, and French Press spent I still would not see Sarah – just the ancillary servers who I’m 90% certain spoke no English; they would collect the French Press, the coffee cup and its oil soaked dish, and my empty plate to return to the kitchen – thankfully they also thought it fit to refill my water.A short wait, some jotted notes, and my main course would arrive – thankfully it would prove vastly superior to the pasta.Titled “Musseto” with baked eggs, braised cockscombs, sweetbreads, trotters, and salsa verde this was the sort of flavor profile I expected at Osteria Morini – hefty, rustic, salty, and satisfying.With three poached eggs floating in a tomato and cinnamon stew laden with unctuous offal the flavors and textures were varied with the heat of chili driving each flavor home.While I cannot even fathom the caloric load of this course the golden buttered toast only upped the ante and was perfect for soaking up all the left over juices…at least until the same bread thief as prior appeared and literally grabbed the plate while I still had toast hand asking “are you finished.”
With Sarah finally returning after I was *actually* finished and offering a dessert menu I finally had the opportunity to do something I rarely do in restaurants – complain to a server.Explaining to her the bread issues, the overzealous plate collecting, and the frankly bad service I received the only thing I expected – a sincere apology without excuses – plus she offered to buy me dessert, an admittedly nice gesture since I was planning on the Budino di Noce the moment I spotted it on the menu.Vastly more traditional than that at Lincoln but certainly less so than others, this lovely little dish featured creamy walnut custard topped with Meyer lemon sorbetto, crisp caramelized apples, rum-soaked raisins, and a puff pastry hat – a tasty amalgam of parts I’d have never thought to mix the overall flavor profile was actually that of an early season apple pie.
Settling the bill and collecting my bags I was assured by Sarah that my complaints had not fallen on deaf ears and that she would pass the information on to management – certainly the best I could have hoped for, all things considering, but not enough that I would return any time soon – for my dollar there is better rustic Italian in New York, better Michael White in New York, and vastly better service.
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Leaving Morini with more than 3 hours before my flight home the final stop of my visit to New York City would be to grab a couple of items for the road – specifically the much praised pastries of Cici-Cela – a shop so small and unsassuming that I’m sure many don’t even realize it is there in the heart of SoHo despite it’s nearly 15 years of existence.
Entering the shop it was merely a second before I was greeted – first by the clerk and moments later by owner Laurent Dupal himself – hands and apron covered with flour and in the process of delivering freshly baked goods from the bakery in back to the front of the shop.Taking a moment to browse the tartes, cakes, cookies, and confections I immediately spotted my first selection and then inquired of the chef what he would recommend – the answer was definitive and therefore the only choice.With my trip to LGA explained to the clerk everything was packaged nicely and I was back on the street in minutes.
Stopping first to snap a picture before taking the subway up to Harlem in order to catch the M60 I’m proud to admit I resisted the temptation to enjoy my pastries all the way through the security check-point – I assure you this took willpower.Taking a seat with over an hour to spare, however, nothing would make it onto the plane – not a single crumb.Beginning first with the standard by which I judge all French pastries, the almond croissant was superb – filled with frangipane and topped with powdered sugar and sliced almonds.Crisp on the exterior, fluffy and loaded with butter inside the almond filling struck a great balance between sweet and savory without ruining the structure – a feat only seen once before, at Francis Payard in Las Vegas.
Moving on to the chef’s suggestion I’m still not sure if he recommended it because it was his favorite or if it was because he had just baked it, but regardless I’m glad he did – it has given me yet another thing to obsess about for my upcoming trip to Paris; the Paris Brest.Apparently meant to be shaped like a bicycle tire – or a circle – this lovely puff of buttery pate à choux was essentially a sliced cream puff stuffed with thick and nutty praline cream and topped with toasted sliced almonds and as you would expect from a place using real butter and top grade flour it was sublime – not too sweet, not too heavy, crispier than an éclair but only barely – like the chef, I would recommend it.Actually, all things considering, I’d recommend Cici-Cela wholeheartedly and if France is making better pastry than this…well, call me excited for April.
If one were to attempt to explain the “boutique” ACE hotel to a friend the descriptors would undoubtedly include brash, hipster, unique, and *gasp* affordable considering its location.With a fresh flower man in the doorway, an eclectic souvenir store in the lobby, and more fedoras and skinny jeans than you can shake a stick at, the ACE also contains three eateries and a coffee shop – the most notable of which is the newly Michelin Starred “The Breslin.”Owned and operated by April Bloomfield of The Spotted Pig fame and considered “nose-to-tail” and “meat-centric” I have to admit the concept screamed “gastropub” to me, but a quick review of the breakfast menu also suggested I check it out to find out for myself.
Taking the early train from New Hyde Park to Penn and greeted by far less friendly weather conditions than the day prior I made my way expediently to the ACE Hotel only to walk right past the main entrance before stopping at Stumptown and making an about-face.Entering through the lobby entrance as the front doors were not yet open I was greeted by two young ladies at the hostess stand and led to a table without delay.Opting to keep my bag and coat with me the bag took a chair while I took the booth and within seconds my water and coffee were filled and a menu presented.
Already well aware of what I’d be ordering before I arrived I next spent some time examining the interior – heavy, dark, “pub-y” quite like The Girl and The Goat in Chicago, but significantly smaller.With the kitchen wide open to public view and myriad animal sculptures of various materials and forms aplenty the feel was essentially a gussied up hunting lodge.Sipping my nutty Stumptown blend it wouldn’t be long before my server would arrive – a cute and bubbly young woman named Allison who called everyone dear, babe, or hun regardless of age or gender.Pleasant, fun, and upbeat despite being the only primary server on duty that morning (all the while training another young lady, as well) I have to say that the service was great from her end but lacking from the ancillary staff as coffee often sat empty and required requests for a refill.
With a soundtrack of stereotyped 80’s kitsch playing overhead and orders placed it would be perhaps 15 minutes of reading my Relais & Chateaux guide before my first course would arrive – the $18 Oven baked 3 cheese sandwich with house smoked ham and egg.Thinking to myself that for $18 this had better be the best egg sandwich ever – well, I’ll just say that if it wasn’t the best, it was certainly close – this was a damned good sandwich.With at two hefty slices of savory ham tucked between thick slices of buttered sourdough and loaded with cheese the sandwich was rustic and hearty at baseline – the addition of a barely cooked farm egg simply put it over the top.
With Allison returning to collect my empty plate a new pair of diners sat down next to me and while browsing the menu I overheard them discussing my follow-up to the egg sandwich – the lady of the pair referring to it as the most decadent thing she’d ever eaten for breakfast.Described on arrival by Allison as “the devil’s doughnut,” the fried peanut and banana sandwich with bourbon and vanilla was most certainly decadent, but I’d suggest it a creation from the heavens rather from below.This time replacing sourdough with hollowed out brioche roll this sandwich was much more a doughnut and absolutely stuffed with bourbon and vanilla poached bananas and gooey peanut butter.Topped with cinnamon sugar and powdered sugar as though it weren’t already sweet enough, it isn’t the most decadent thing I’ve ever eaten for breakfast, but I think that says more about me than it does about The Breslin.
With another coffee refill plus one for the road my check was delivered – pricey for breakfast to be sure, but worth every penny given the quality of the food. Thanking Allison and leaving just as the opening notes of Guns n’ Roses Sweet Child O’ Mine started overhead I made my way to street after wandering the hotel for a bit – the flower guy was still there and so were the hipsters lined up out the door at Stumptown, like Tribeca or Soho had migrated uptown – perhaps for good reason given my experience at The Breslin.
Despite it’s newly awarded Michelin star I cannot say that Danny Brown Wine Bar and Kitchen would have been at the top of my list of “must visit” restaurants in the 5-Bouroughs – as a matter of fact, under most circumstances it would have most certainly never even entered into the differential.Truth be told, the decision to visit DBWB occurred entirely as a logical compromise in the life of someone who rarely lets logic get in the way of his dining logistics – first my friends, admitted “non-foodies,” stated they wanted to join me for dinner prior to the Kings/Islanders game at Nassau Coliseum, then they noted that if possible they’d prefer not venture into Manhattan, and finally they requested a modest priced place that sold “steak and burgers.”With those stipulations in place, a location in Forest Hills, an opening time of 5:00pm, and the convenience for me to get there via LIRR the logic was simply too great to overlook.
With the best restaurant lunch of my life wrapping up just prior to 2:30pm I was glad for the long walk from Bouley to Penn Station – for the first time in a while I was actually quite full.Graced by the suddenly pleasant weather and carrying my gift-loaf in a bag the 2.5 miles went relatively quickly and before I knew it I was on the 4:04 train to Forest Hills where my friends were waiting.A quick drive through the lovely old community and we would find ourselves at 104-02 Metropolitan Ave. before the doors even opened for business – we even managed to find free parking.
Walking up to the restaurant just prior to 5:00 we were welcomed in like old friends – first by an elderly woman who would later joke with us for being “too quiet” and next by the man who would turn out to be our waiter for the duration of the visit, a lean fellow with a well manicured beard and voice so soft that I never really caught his name.Competent, helpful, and ever circulating to fill glasses I must say our server’s mild demeanor would have been welcomed in almost any other place serving similar quality cuisine but it did present a slight problem in hearing dish descriptions since a rather poorly behaved pair of children one table over spent the evening coloring on themselves and the tablecloth (and later white paper provided by the restaurant) while yelling as their oblivious parents drank cocktails.
Sitting and chatting while sipping our beverages – water for myself and diet coke for the rest – it quickly became evident that Queens’ first Michelin Star has actually become a bit of a destination as both the bar and the dining room would be filled by 5:15.With the bar up front, the open kitchen in back and the 44-seat space largely filled with cream walls, black chairs, and white table cloths the restaurant itself was not really much to behold,but the reason we were there was the food and after making our server aware of our time constraints the first course would arrive quite promptly – a $30 small board of Charcuterie and Cheese featuring Rosette de Lyon, House Made Pâté de Campagne, Pork Rillets, Brillat-Savarin, Bûcheron, and Idiazabal paired with Fig Compote, Whole Grain Mustard, Cornichons, Aged Balsamic Vinegar, plus Baguette & Walnut-Cranberry Raisin Bread. Having never really experienced such a board before my friends were impressed by the pork salami while I was personally wowed by the lovely rosemary and four-spice accents of the rillets.Amongst the cheeses, the buttery triple-créme was the table favorite while I fancied the Bûcheron just as I always have.
Still chatting and slowly working on the board, our next round of courses would arrive perhaps fifteen minutes later – not rushed, just right.Orders amongst my pals would include the Serrano Ham Croquettes with Saffron Aïoli, the Tuscan Bean Soup with Parmigiano Broth & Truffled Crouton, and the Wild Mushroom Risotto with Black Trumpet & Chanterelle Mushrooms, Parmigiano Fricco.Offered one of the Croquettes I’ll note it was more subtle than my previous experiences with similar tapas dishes – creamy and savory but not overly accented by the ham.Significantly better would be the risotto – toothsome but creamy, the mushrooms plenty earthy with the grated parmesan and cheese tuille adding characteristic savory notes and texture.
For my appetizer, the Torchon of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras with Quince and Pomegranate would be the obvious choice – and at $21 quite the portion.A solid terrine, perhaps a bit too chilled and unfortunately served only with room temperature Baguette the texture was spot on – the sort of torchon that was equally good spread on bread of by the forkful with the balsamic tinged quince smear or the sweet pomegranate seeds.
With appetizers and charcuterie finished save for a few bites of risotto our main courses would arrive in short order – each cooked nicely and enjoyed by their respective recipients; the Grilled 10 oz. “Black Angus Blend” Burger on English Muffin with Crispy French Fries and Cheddar for the guys while the lady opted for Creekstone Farms NY Strip Steak “Au Poivre” Potato Gratin & Wilted Watercress.
For my main course of the evening the choice was made the minute I saw the Hand Made Tagliatelle with Duck Confit, Red Swiss Chard, Toasted Sunchokes & Sage – and shockingly it would prove to be my favorite pasta on a trip that included visits with both Benno and White plus the crab dish at EMP.Rustic in presentation yet refined in flavor the pasta itself was hand torn and perfectly al dente – a bit of resistance to the tooth, no more and no less.Topped with crispy sunchokes and savory sage, bitter chard, and a ragout of confit in a thick gravy hefty garlic and nutmeg the flavor profile was diverse and well conceived – a dish worthy of its persistent status on a menu that changes regularly.
Debating dessert as we’d hoped to make the game on time our debate ended when we saw the menu – little known to me one of my co-diners has quite the taste for Carrot Cake and with that in mind both he and another opted for the Rum Raisin Carrot Cake – Cream Cheese Mousse.Hefty with boozy plump raisins and dense with sweet carrots the base of the cake was without a doubt the best carrot cake I’ve ever had, though admittedly it is not my “go to” dessert.Large in portion and not overloaded with the frosting, a sweet and light smear, my friends were appropriately satisfied.
Not wanting to order the same as the others, my dessert would prove the worst of the bunch – a decent Banana’s Foster Crêpe with Brown Butter-Rum Sauce & Whipped Cream that suffered from Bananas that were simply not quite ready to be served.Thankfully light on the tail end of a day full of eating I will say the crepe itself was textbook, but the with the bananas still slightly sour I have to imagine this dessert would have been vastly improved with the bananas a day older.
The final dessert, ordered by the lady of the table, was Warm Apple Tarte Tatin – Crème Sucrée.With a fluffy pastry shell at the base and buttery cooked apples and cinnamon atop the dish wish simple, straight forward, and tasty – though the crème really did not add much.
With the clock inching towards 6:45 our server would return with the bill – a tab I can guesstimate but did not see as my friends opted to pay.Thanked by our server we made our way to the street and were it not for getting lost along the way we’d have likely made the game just past the National Anthem – instead we arrived with two minutes left in the first and the Kings already down one.While the Kings would indeed go on to get shut out, I have to say I mostly enjoyed Danny Brown Wine Bar and the rest of the evening – while the restaurant may not be a destination, I’d say it defines “very good cuisine in its category,” and apparently Michelin and the locals agree.
I’ll admit I was skeptical – I’d heard negative comments from a pair of trusted palates that the restaurant was old and tired – a relic resting on past glory despite the new location and positive reviews from Bruni and Michelin – it was actually these comments that had kept the Bouley off my agenda on previous visits to Manhattan.With that noted, aside from the aforementioned thoughts there were others that urged me to go – another trusted gourmand and also my dining partner from the night before at Corton who considers it one of her very favorite restaurants in the city.Exploring the rumor that Chef Bouley was back in the kitchen and everything was firing on all cylinders a quick e-mail only days before my departure for New York confirmed that the Chef would indeed be there for Saturday lunch service and that although they were full for later seatings a table for one could certainly be accommodated if a 12:45 reservation would suffice.
With meetings out of the way and a quick stop at Bloomingdales my walk south would be brisk – the sun was out for what seemed like the first time in months and being just before noon the streets were bustling…the scene was everything I love about New York (save for the odd folks dressed as Elmo.)Making good time and arriving at the easily missed location just before 12:30 I entered a foyer almost too grand to be true – hundreds of fresh apples lining one wall, hundreds of ornate flowers lining the other – the smell intoxicating.Greeted by the hostess my reservation was confirmed and I was told my table was being readied if I’d like to take a seat and wait; it would be a mere 5 minutes before I was led through the dining room to my two top in the back – every other table in the restaurant full.
With a heavily padded chair that could have likely supported two beneath me and thickly linened table, flowers, and silver before me the scene at Bouley is certainly one to behold – it is beautiful and the floral patterns dominating the room from chandelier to wallpaper to floor strike a safe balance between ornate and ostentatious, no small feat.Opting for iced water and against wine I would next be greeted by my server, a man named Marcellin who would not only provide his contact information at the end of the meal, but would also lead one of the top five service teams I’ve experienced in Manhattan – to say the least I was never left wanting for anything.With the menu presented and my selections from the 4-course prix fixe confirmed along with an added supplement I asked to make sure photos were allowed…what followed, in my opinion, was near perfection.
Kicking things off, the amuse for the afternoon would be a Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Ricotta Cheese and Roasted Chestnuts – a creamy potage balancing the natural sweetness of the pumpkin with the mellow ricotta and smoky chestnuts.Tasty albeit somewhat conventional the portion was surprisingly large for an amuse – I’ve certainly received smaller “cups” of soup at a number of restaurants.
Following the soup one of the most impressive bread services I’ve experienced in a restaurant began – I guess it doesn’t hurt to have your own bakery.Beginning first with an apple raisin roll and flaxseed baguette that were offered as a warm pair to every table, the rest of the meal would be a revolving door of flavors that changed nearly every time the friendly and gracious bread man passed through the room.With a semi-sweet butter and fine sea salt on the table the selections I remember out of the dozen offered included Black Currant-Anise, Walnut Saffron, Fig, Olive, Pistachio, Garlic Focaccia, Miche, and a warm Brioche.Needless to say I sampled a few too many.
Beginning the 5-course (or so I thought) $45 prix fixe my first course would be Carpaccio of Kampachi, Young Big Eye Tuna, and Striped Amber Jack ‘prepared in a Mediterranean manner.’A substantial portion of high quality ceviche-style fish paired with unseasonably bold tomatoes and an array of microgreens with a mild dusting of salt and black pepper the course was dazzling both visually and texturally – an appropriately delicate way to begin the meal.
Following the fish there would be a bit of a delay – twenty minutes perhaps – but the time went rather quickly between the bread and conversing with my captain; plus what would come next was every bit worth the wait.Described as a “gift” from Chef Bouley – a gift I saw no other table receive – Sea Urchin Terrine with Golden Osetra Caviar and Vodka Crème Fraiche would prove to be quite present indeed.Served as two fresh tongues of uni – one raw and the other encased in a gelatin block tasting like the essence of the sea the dish was anchored in a bitter yet tangy cream amplified by small dots of briny caviar and basil oil.While admittedly homogenous in texture, the flavor of the dish was anything but – at times sweet and at others savory it was just a beautifully executed composition.
With little delay following my wowed response to the terrine, the next dish to emerge from the kitchen was another gift – this time Sauteed John Dory with sweet peas, celery root puree, and black Truffle Sauce.Featuring my favorite fish there was little chance for this dish to fail, though I must note it was not as impressive as the uni.Flaky and sweet the St Pierre itself was quite tasty – clearly sautéed in butter and all the better for it.Where the dish missed for me, however, was actually the black truffle sauce which although good was so potent with the nose of truffle that it overwhelmed the delicate fish and celery root.
Returning to the prix fixe, my next course would be perhaps Bouley’s most famous at the current location; Porcini Flan, Alaska Live Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Dashi.Served in a small dish and uncovered tableside with a bit of steam and plenty of earthy aromatics greeting the nose the first thing to note about the dish is that it tastes much better than it looks.Clearly Asian in influence the heady dashi dotted with large chunks of crab is lovely – it makes the dish despite getting second billing in the title.Digging deeper, to the bottom, the creamy custard greets the palate with earthy tones – a sort of balance to the savoriness above – and when mixed thoroughly the amalgam simply “works.”
The followup to the flan was ordered a la carte in addition to the prix fixe – though I will admit it did not appear on my bill at the end of the afternoon.Never one to pass up an egg dish or polenta the Organic Connecticut Farm Egg, Serrano Ham, Steamed Polenta, Artichoke, Sunchoke, Coconut Garlic Broth dish was an obvious choice and perhaps my favorite course of the meal.With the cured ham actually served in four strips cupping the egg the breakfasty aspect of the dish was spot on and melded nicely with the substantially buttery polenta.Adding nuance, crispy artichoke and shaved parmesan plus one of the most unique “broths” I’ve ever experienced – on one hand milky and sweet but on the other potent with garlic.
When Marcellin arrived to collect my empty plate and asked how it was I merely pointed – I’d admittedly wiped it clean with some miche.With a smile he said “good, the chef is making up something special for you to try” and true to his word the next dish was another gift – another egg.Presented on a similar plate to the first, Scrambled Connecticut Farm Egg, Black truffle, Mascarpone, and Comte was not nearly as complicated as its predecessor, but was every bit as good.With the egg itself whipped with black truffles and mascarpone to form an aromatic cloud of flavor, the dish was topped tableside with grated 24 month aged compte – a decidedly luxurious touch.
Once again returning to the prix fixe – course three (or eight counting the amuse – but who is counting, right) was Organic Long Island Duck Roasted with White Truffle Honey, Vermont Chanterelles, Pencil Asparagus, Porcini Puree and a side of buttered pommes puree.Beginning with the mashed potatoes – they aren’t Robuchon – a tad more texture – but they aren’t too far off.Moving on to the duck – rosy on the inside and bronzed on the exterior the flavor was quite excellent – sweet and supple, but unfortunately not fatty or crispy enough on the exterior to rival the fowl at Eleven Madison Park or Corton.Certainly a competent dish and again impressive in portion I’ll note the accompanying vegetables and fungi were quite nicely prepared – tender and flavorful, nicely paired with the earthy mushroom sauce and sweet foam.
Rather full at this point the next course would be the only fixed option on the prix fixe – a transition from the savory to the sweet in the form of Chilled Coconut Soup with Pineapple Granite and Organic Yogurt Sorbet.Interestingly tasty and tropical much like the palate cleansers at Eleven Madison Park and Corton the day before I actually enjoyed this dish better than either of them – the pineapple was exceedingly sweet and juicy, the coconut quite restrained, and the sorbet tangy and smooth.With the added crunch of crumbled macadamia nuts this dish was more Hawaii than New York and more summer than February, but it was also delicious and light.
For my final course of the afternoon – well, it was anything but light.Loved by some and loathed by others, Chocolate Frivilous with Chocolate Brulee, Chocolate Parfait, Hazelnut Dacquoise, Chocolate Walnut Spice Bread, White Coffee Ice Cream, Prune Armagnac Ice Cream is certainly a plate to behold – if I had to guess I’d say the composition of six desserts easily weighs a pound or more.Arranged randomly and not all that attractively with the ice-cream starting to melt on arrival, this mixed bag of varying tastes and textures was largely a success with the chocolate flavors running the gamut though interestingly it would be the non-chocolate options that appealed most.A solid ending to a great meal I can’t say I loved it – but I didn’t loath it either.
As a final treat before my departure, a tower silver tower of mignardises was delivered with the check – shockingly only $45 + $4 coffee (a mellow cocoa accented blend.)Featuring White Chocolate and Dark Chocolate Rum balls, sesame cookies, almond tuilles, vanilla chocolate shortbreads, coconut cookies, and strawberry macarons the macarons were absolutely textbook while the sesame and coconut cookies were disappointingly dry and the rest good but unmemorable.With bill paid, including a substantial tip, I thanked Marcellin and his crew for a fantastic afternoon and made my way to the door with a requested copy of the menu in hand to collect my coat – plus one last gift, a nearly one pound loaf of maple cornbread.
To this moment I cannot imagine why I was treated so well at Bouley – no special requests were made, I was dressed no better than anyone else in the restaurant, and aside from my e-mail inquiring whether photos were allowed and if Chef Bouley would be cooking on Saturday my reservation was no different than any other. A substantial bargain for amuse/five courses/mignardises my meal turned out to be so much more – not only was it amuses and mignardises plus nine course and a delectable gift to take home for myself and my friends, it was also an experience I will always remember and to this date the best lunch of my life – a meal so good that I’m tempted to go back on my upcoming March visit to the Big Apple with my only reluctance being that it seems impossible Bouley could repeat such magic.
After a wonderful Friday with new friends and stellar dining Saturday would be another day of food and friends plus a meeting in the morning and hockey in the evening – still plenty of time for three good meals.With the day beginning in New Hyde Park and progressing to my midtown meeting, Tribeca lunch, and Forest Hills dinner before ending in Uniondale the agenda was certainly aggressive, but entirely doable with a map and a little planning.
Waking early for a long jog and then hopping the LIRR to Penn by 7:00 a quick walk would place me at my first destination, DB Bistro Moderne, just after 8:00.Too early for brunch but with eyes set squarely on one (or three) particular menu items I’ll note here that my menu was pre-ordered by special request and as such from the moment I arrived until the moment I left the service was beyond reproach. With the city (and restaurant) quiet at such an early hour on the weekendI was greeted promptly and seated by one of the two server/hostess/bussers and with coffee (La Colombe) filled and remaining filled throughout the meal the experience was underway without me even having to look at a menu.
Sipping my coffee while reading a complimentary copy of the New York Times and listening to soft French-pop overhead the entire feel of the room was decidedly haute-New York – elegant without being “fancy” and warm yet also stylish and modern.With affluent Italians occupying a pair of tables next to me and conversing exclusively in their native tongues I made small talk with my server who noted the 1970s Kings jersey sitting at my side and shortly thereafter I was informed it would be “no time” before my first course would arrive.
With the clock just shy of 8:20am and Boulud branded napkins and tableware awaiting my first course would indeed arrive from the kitchen quite quickly – a basket of three warm viennoiseries by Eric le coq, L’Echire butter direct from France, and two jams – rhubarb and raspberry by the famous “jam fairy” Christine Ferber.With the butter croissant better than any I’ve had in Manhattan I can honestly say that it alone with the butter and delectable confitures would have been enough to justify the $6 price tag, but as an added bonus there was also a pain au chocolat stuffed full of Valrhona Manjari chocolate and a second croissant layered with strawberry jam and almond paste.With each bite as good as the last if I had to utter a single complaint it would honestly be that the pastries were so good I could not find a place to use up all the lovely butter without feeling guilty.
Noting my early meeting and clearly well prepared to have me in and out by 9:00am, my second course was special requested from the brunch menu and would arrive warm with cheese still bubbling.Titled “Le Menage a Trois” – a taste of all three of db Bistro Moderne’s Croques Monsieurs and featuring Croque Classique, Croque Provencal, and Croque Moderne along with a salad of mixed greens topped with a zesty vinaigrette this was the sort of breakfast worth going out of your way for.With each half sandwich using toasted double buttered brioche and creamy Mornay, the Classique would be the most traditional – a savory ham, Swiss, and Bibb Lettuce composition that rivaled any I’d ever had.More interesting but less successful, the vegetarian friendly Provencal would match a stunning heirloom tomato with fresh basil, mozzarella, and mesclun – the bitter greens proving an excellend balance to the sweet tomato.The final sandwich – the piece de resistance if you will, would be the Moderne with supple and fatty duck confit topped with sharp goat cheese, fig compote, and spicy arugula – sweet, savory, fatty, and covered with Mornay…I’m pretty sure not even making the monsieur a madame could have improved it.
With the time nearing 8:50 and the check delivered along with a to-go cup full of coffee I thanked my servers and made my way to the street where a quick walk would lead me to the Hilton by 9:10 – a full twenty minutes early.A lovely setting, great service, fantastic food, and a kitchen willing to accommodate the diner’s whim – after a great visit to Daniel in early 2010 and this visit to DB in 2011 there is little doubt that the rest of Chef Boulud’s empire will find their way onto my itinerary during subsequent visits to the Big Apple.
If you’d have asked me what my top five “must visit” restaurants were prior to this most recent trip to New York you’d have heard only two ranked before Paul Leibrandt’s Corton – those being L’Astrance and Pierre Gagnaire’s flagship restaurants in Paris – the latter of which Leibrandt had spent some time in training.Well accomplished at a young age and trained in some of the world’s best kitchens I’d heard Leibrandt described as everything from visionary to vexing and from precise to prima donna, but having missed out on the restaurant during my last two visits to New York for various reasons I knew from the moment I saw the Winter 2010 menu that this would be the time to visit.
With scheduling tight due to multiple circumstances I must admit that my visit to Corton could have been better planned – I mean, really, I’d only just finished a fantastic meal with two new friends at Eleven Madison Park sixty minutes earlier.Half jogging with bag and coat in hand my descent from Madison Square Park to TriBeCa would be a quick one and even so I would arrive approximately ten minutes late for my 6:30 seating – as a matter of fact, with the restaurant largely unadorned on the exterior I was actually rushed right past it at first before noticing.Entering the small cream colored space to the sight of a friendly hostess who gathered my belongings and assured me that my delayed arrival was not a problem I did feel a bit bad for having left my dinner partner for the evening, another new friend, waiting.
Seated promptly and busy chatting when our server would arrive with menus and a wine list moments later I must note that service at Corton is quite unlike most other restaurants in New York – it actually feels more akin to Los Angeles fine dining where the servers are there for you, but certainly not there to pamper you – you get everything you need, likely anything you ask for, but you both know they are doing their job and unless there is a serious gaff (there never was, service was flawless) you’d just assume the water refilled itself and the food appeared on the table.With few questions to ask since we’d previously agreed to do the tasting plus a supplement the meal began without delay.
Browsing around the space that comprises Corton I have to admit that unless one is paying attention, the nuances are easy to miss.Larger than one would assume from the street the small bar and entryway quickly gives way to a square dining room lit largely on the edges and substantially white – the walls, the ceilings, the tables, the plates – with flourishes of gold in the pillars, embossed leafs on the walls, and lettering.Featuring not an open kitchen, but rather a kitchen that can be seen through a long acrylic window that looks out into the dining room the dining room seemed designed for meditation, at least aside from the extremely loud table of six seated in the corner during our visit.Not particularly conducive to photo taking I will note that the current no-flash policy (strictly enforced as we saw regarding one of our neighbors) is a step up from Leibrandt’s previous no-photos-at-all policy.
Without further ado, the first items to arrive at our table were clearly a flash of Gagnaire – four separate and unique canapes in/on various vessels, including one served on a plastic-wrapped sauce pan.Featuring Parmesan Marshmallows, Black olive and parmesan croquettes, Almond and herb financiers, and crackers filled with mornay sauce each item was quite savory (I’d heard rumor of Leibrandt’s fondness for salt) but none overly so.With the sweet and savory balance of the financiers definitely my favorite bite, I could have easily snacked on any of these at the bar all evening.
For our amuse proper of the evening the next course to looked like an egg and was indeed an egg – or at least the yolk.Described as a slow poached egg yolk with parsnip espuma and celery root plus lotus chip the flavors of this course were decidedly vegetal but all melded together nicely by the creamy yolk.Breaking the chip up into the egg-cup and eating slowly the most impressive aspect of the dish to me was the manner in which each taste was distinct yet also additive to the whole – an aromatic experience that tasted flavorful yet light, clean yet earthy.
Prior to our first course we would next be visited by the bread man – always one of my favorite folks in any restaurant and no different at Corton.Sporting garlic focaccia, olive loafs, bulgur wheat baguettes, and cranberry-walnut bread crisps along with creamy unsalted cow’s milk butter and a sweet yet savory seaweed butter and a side of sea salt I sampled each and while I cannot say the olive loaf was the best I’ve tasted, the other three options were all excellent with both butters – had it not been for such a full day of eating I’d have surely overindulged.
With approximately ten minutes consistently between finishing a course and the arrival of the next, the first item on our night’s tasting menu would be “Local Brook Trout – lightly smoked, Osetra Caviar, Yuzu.”Served half on a plate and half on a salt rock the primary constituent of the dish was a delicate and smoky terrine of trout wrapped in black olive gelee and topped with caviar and gold leaf.With a thin layer of melted gruyere at its center and an airy puff of yuzu meringue at its left the accompanying salt rock would feature squid ink dentiles and a tempura blini topped with goats milk chantilly.With no instructions on how to eat I found this dish to be most vexing of the evening with drastic contrasts in flavor, texture, and temperature at every turn but if one were to look for a common thread the only thing I can think is that this was the chef’s take on traditional blini with trout, caviar, and creme fraiche and in any case it was all quite tasty.
Following the trout would arrive our supplemental dish – in my opinion the second best course of the evening entitled “Foie Gras – Honey Crisp Apple, Yuzu, Brioche.”Anchored by a large roundedsphere of creamy Foie Grascovered in apple cider and sitting in a puddle of yuzu yogurt the liver itself was remarkable solo or slathered on the house made toasted brioched with marcona almond butter and fried buckwheat.Rounding out the plate with dollops of yuzu gelee, truffled honey, and various textures and flavors of honeycrisp apple the $26 supplement was worth every penny.
Returning to the tasting menu but opting against the $40 winter truffle supplement our next dish would present “Sunchoke Gnocchi – Black Truffle, Brown Butter Creme.”Small in portion but ample in flavor this course was amongst the least complicated of the evening with the two nutty sunchoke gnocchi and one black truffle gnocchi centering the dish in a sauce of truffle, gold leaf, and frothed butter.With a crunchy sunchoke crisp hemisecting the dish and a dollop of aged balsamic at its base there was a precision and purity to the dish that I enjoyed, though I’d have admittedly enjoyed more of it.
The thrid course of the tasting was, in my opinion, the least successful.Titled “Scallop – Sea Lettuce, Bergamot” the centerpiece of the dish was excellent – a perfectly pan seared dayboat scallop served in its shell.Where the dish failed for me was the base of sea water gelee, vanilla grass, sea lettuce, and bergamot.Intensely briny but at the same time lingering on the palate with bitter citrus tones the entire dish just seemed unbalanced by the bergamot – like a tea bag allowed to steep for too long.
The next course would mark a return to precision and balance – first presented tableside and then plated in the kitchen “Atlantic Turbot – Faux Marrow, Huckleberry, Hibiscus” was a stunner.With the turbot loin wrapped in port gelee and finished with hibiscus jus the fish itself was lovely – a flaky and moist masterpiece nicely balanced with the sweet port.Partnered with grilled fish fins and a supple king mushroom dusted with truffle powder posing as “Marrow” the sauce, a puree of black trumpet and huckleberry, added another layer of aromatics and texture to an already impressive dish – a dish quite unlike any fish course I’ve ever tasted.
Still wowed by the Turbot our next course would represent not only my favorite course of the meal, but my favorite course thus far in 2011.Once again presented tableside before returning to the kitchen for plating, “Wild Lola Duck – Cooked in Fresh Eucalyptus, Red Cabbage Gelee, Mole” was another two plate presentation and bite after bite I would have difficulty deciding which was better.Starting first with a thin cut of breast, crisp and crackling on the exterior and strawberry red within, the mild menthol was more a feeling on the tongue than a true “flavor.”Topped with a spicy mole sauce and accompanied by a carefully arranged stack of tamarind paste, mustard greens, chicory, red cabbage gelee, and a spiced chocolate tuille the dish felt like one of the complex Southwestern presentations from a Rick Bayless kitchen yet significantly more artistic.Not to be outdone, the second plate of the main course would present duck leg confit baked in puff pastry with lardo and cocoa, cauliflower mayonnaise, and an herb bouquet.Crispy outside, molten and fatty within – the mayonnaise and herb bouquet were merely distractions from the outstanding amalgam of flavors.
Moving toward dessert our cheese course for the evening would feature “Brebis Pyrenees – White Coffee, Tamarind, Caraway.”Centered by the hard sheep’s cheese atop a white chocolate disc, this composed course would additionally feature tamarind puree, grapefruit gelee, and coffee vanilla Chantilly encircling the cheese and a side dish of a caraway crisp.Generally a fan of softer cheeses I was pleasantly surprised by this course as each bite and accoutrement showed off the versatility of the cheese – caramel and salt at times, nutty and sweet at others.
Presented as a palate cleanser, “Coconut – Kaffir Lime, Basil Seed, Golden Pineapple, Macadamia Nut Crumble” was much more a proper dessert than a palate cleanser.With coconut custard dollops laced with lime at each side and a coconut sorbet at the center the dish was subsequently topped with aromatic basil seeds, compressed pineapple and pineapple gelee, and a healthy spooning of sweet macadamia nut brittle.A decidedly tropical dessert for the middle of February in New York I really appreciated the variations in texture and temperature – much like the orange version four hours earlier at Eleven Madison Park.
Our final dessert of the evening at Corton would arrive signed in chocolate by Leibrandt.Titled “Saffron Vanilla Fudge – Matcha Green Tea Sablé, Chestnut, Vanilla” this was again a 2-plate composition with the aromatic fudge cake, chestnut meringue, and vanilla cream seated atop a sponge of matcha and topped with a thin chocolate disc and crystallized violet.Partly bitter but also sweet and balanced the overall flavor reminded me much of Matsuhisa’s Greet Tea Tiramisu with the flavors ever so slightly more nuanced, possibly due to the focus being placed more in favor of the chocolate and less on the matcha.Moving away from the cake, the highlight of the dish for myself (but not so much my dining partner) was the side-dish consisting of a Dark Chocolate Baba finished with 23-year aged rum – an overhead smash of two hefty flavors that served a stark contrast to the restraint and precision of the well balanced cake.All told I ended up with 1 and 3/4 of the Babas all too myself – who am I to let such decadence go to waste?
With plates cleared and myself opting for coffee, a rather standard and earthy peaberry, our mignardises from Corton would arrive in plethora – three acrylic boxes and a stone slab filled with passion fruit and cassis rose pate a fruit, Honey Bourbon Truffles, Mojito, Sidecar, and Brown butter salted caramel Macarons and Cassis and Violet, Meyer Lemon, Dark Chocolate Ganache, Salted Butter Caramel chocolates.Sitting and chatting for quite some time while I grazing on the sweets and sipping my coffee I won’t lie when I say that my friend did very little to her share of the bounty, yet when we left a solo macaron and only 2 truffles remained – aside from a couple of gummy macarons all treats were excellent.
Splitting the bill onto two credit cards and requesting a copy of the menu for my growing collection it would only take moments before our server returned with the menus, protective envelopes, and a pair of grapefruit and rose financiers in individual wrappers.With the tab settled and my bag and coat collected my friend and I boarded the Northbound 1-Train where a quick changeover at Penn Station would have me en route for my buddies in Queens via the LIRR in less than 25 minutes.
Looking back on the entirety of the day – Breakfast at Locanda Verde, a nearly 5-hour lunch at Eleven Madison Park, and over three hours at Corton I am still impressed with the quality of the food I had on February 18th 2011 and with the people I dined with – all in all it was a truly fantastic day that I’ll look back on fondly for some time.Focusing more specifically on Corton – all I can say is that my hunch was right, it was every bit as challenging as I’d hoped and lived up to all the great expectations I had when I made the reservation.While notably my most expensive meal on this most recent trip to New York, it was also my favorite – and perhaps the best overall meal I’ve had in New York outside the extended tasting at Per Se under Benno that cost nearly twice as much.I have no doubt I’ll be back – it is just a matter of when.
On June 24th 2008 my sister and I had a lovely meal at Danny Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park – the service was first-rate albeit a bit “hovering,” the food was excellent, and the room exquisite.Still relatively new to the realm of fine dining at that visit I was impressed by many aspects of the 5-course gourmand menu that we received but even in my naivety it seemed strange that five courses meant five courses – no canapés, mignardises, amuses, candies, or palate cleansers to be seen.Having been to myriad highly regarded restaurants since that first visit it always intrigued me when people spoke of the gourmand menus at EMP in the coming years – the plethora of treats and gifts from the kitchen, the flawless service that rivaled the best in the city, the 4-Stars From Bruni and Top 50 rating in S. Pellegrino – I knew at some point I would have to return to see how the restaurant under Chef Humm had progressed, but there always seemed to something new, novel, or potentially better on my increasingly frequent trips toManhattan – at least until I heard about Eleven Madison Park’s duck.
Bearing in mind EMP’s 28-day reservation policy my initial contact with the restaurant would be January 7th – an e-mail was sent inquiring whether the duck could be available at lunch; within two hours a response was sent by Mandy Laterveer who confirmed that although they would gladly prepare the duck, it was a whole duck and (theoretically) a lot of food for one person.While I had little doubt that I could handle the duck on my own, I also had to keep in mind that there was much else I desired to try and as such I turned to chowhound in order to perhaps find a dining partner – what I found instead was two, a lovely couple who were quite familiar with the restaurant and more than willing to make a return, especially for the duck.
After a long visit to the Rubin I would arrive nearly 15 minutes early for my 1:00pm reservation and entering the revolving doors I was greeted nearly immediately with my coat and bag collected from my shoulders before I even stated the name of my party.All smiles and manners I was quickly led to a great table at the center of the room where the crowd was beginning to thin, but more than half of the tables remained occupied with couples lingering over coffee and dessert.Greeted next by our captain, Chris, water was filled and we made small talk for a good five minutes before I was offered the wine and cocktail list.Deferring drink orders until the rest of the party arrived I would next be treated with a porcelain container of gougeres and a copy of the EMP “Chicken Issue” book to browse while I waited.Sampling the gougeres, first one, then two, then the rest I must resist the comparison to compare them to the ethereal versions at Per Se – but then again, at Per Se I only received one while at EMP I had eight to myself followed by a shared basket when my new friends were seated.
Before moving on to the rest of the meal I will simply note here that we were very well taken care of at Eleven Madison Park that afternoon and while I’m certain the number of people who stopped by to say hello (including Chef Humm himself) had a lot to do with my dining partners, I do not feel we received any “special treatment” otherwise during our stay – we enjoyed the same amuses and mignardises as the tables around us, our servings appeared no larger than anyone else’s, and the wine pairings enjoyed by one member of the table were no more exclusive than those at the next table.With that noted, the service was perfect – a balance of formal and conversational, the plates described at length, and the diner never left wanting for anything.With a tasty Anjou Cocktail of Cognac, Pear Brandy, Triple Sec, Ceylon Cinnamon, Champagne, and Lemon kicking things off the new menu proved easily navigable and with orders placed it was time to sit back for nearly four and a half hours of conversation and tremendous food.
Having already noted my gripe above about the lack of amuses during my previous lunch at EMP, clearly someone was listening as the first five items to hit the table after the gougeres were all complimentary.Beginning first with Halibut Dashi Tea with Red Seaweed and Thyme and Sesame/Nori Lavash I enjoyed this clever take on tea and crackers though I have to say the fish flavor of the tea was quite muted in comparison to that of the seaweed, a choice I realized was likely intentional when I took a bite of the cracker and realized the taste was nearly identical.
Having already seen the next dish arrive at the adjacent table I was quite excited given my fondness for egg dishes – alas the only thing truly eggy about the dish was the vessel in which it was served – not a bad thing, just not what I expected. Described as Smoked Sturgeon Sabayon in Eggshell Cup with Chive Oil the texture was creaminess defined.First tasting the smoky sabayon separate and then mixing to incorporate all the ingredients the flavor profile was nicely balanced and the texture pleasant with bits of smoked fish mingling with the creamy sabayon.Largely undetectable at first, the most impressive aspect of this dish for myself was the manner in which the mild notes of chive hung on the palate after swallowing.
For our final bite before the meal commenced we received what I can only describe as the very essence of truffle absorbed in a sponge.Titled Black Truffle Beignet with White Truffle Yogurt the single bite was by far the standout of the canapés and perhaps the best I’ve ever had anywhere – I could have surely consumed a dozen more.
With our first courses soon to arrive the bread service would logically follow – a service that has changed only for the better since my last visit and will apparently be changing more soon.Featuring a Picholine Olive Roll and a French Baguette with Cow’s Milk Butter, Goat’s Milk Butter, and Sea Salt the breads were good but certainly nothing to write home about.What were impressive, however, were the butters – specifically the tangy goat’s milk version but also the mellow and grassy cow’s milk option which was vastly more spreadable than the icy puck of my previous visit.
With much made of the new menu format at EMP I won’t go into the controversy, but for those unfamiliar I will simply note that each dish is delineated with a single word and if further explanation is desired the captain will be glad to go into exquisite detail and if a specific component of a dish is not desired or tolerated there is a good chance it can be omitted.Beginning first with cold options my selection would be my favorite course of the meal – “Foie Gras.”Presented as a marinated torchon infused with Venezuelan Cocoa and sitting atop a quince gelee drizzled with quince consomee the torchon itself was perfect and melted in the mouth releasing notes of cocoa that permeated the palate.With coarse sea salt atop the torchon lending some textural variation the gelee was mild while the consomee was intensely sweet.Paired with a cocoa brioche the entire dish was excellent – I only wish there would have been more brioche.
For my friends the first courses of the day would be Hamachi – Marinated with Fennel/Meyer Lemon/Horseradish and Chèvre – Butternut Squash/Pumpkin Seeds/Chicory; thankfully I was allowed a bite of each.First tasting the Hamachi I appreciated the clean and light fish and the excellent balance achieved by the sweet lemon and heated horseradish.Not to be outdone, the Chevre dish featured a round of butternut squash that was hollowed out and stuffed with creamy cheese.With a sunflower seed and pistachio Tuille, dandelion greens, crunchy pumpkin seeds, and bitter chicory atop the dish was light and textural, a lovely salad.
With conversation flowing freely and multiple servers, managers, and staff stopping by to say hello our second courses would arrive after perhaps twenty minutes.Having already sampled most of the menu on prior visits, one of my co-diners opted for the Foie Gras as her second course while the selection enjoyed by her husband would be one of the more remarkable flavors of the meal – Skate seared with Madras Curry, Baby Bok Choy, and variation of Lemon.Noting aloud that one of my best memories from my first visit to EMP was actually the first time I ever tasted skate the bite that I had of this dish was again quite memorable.With the characteristic texture of the fish accented in ample notes of clove, chile pepper, cinnamon, and allspice the key to this dish was (just like my first visit) Chef Humm’s deft hand with lemon and the manner in which it melded the sweetness of the protein with the mild vegetables while tempering the heat and allowing the whole amalgam to achieve a decidedly Asian inspired harmony.
Far less complicated than the skate but equally satisfying would be my second selection, Crab – Tagliolini with Meyer Lemon and Black Pepper. Hand made in house daily the Tagliolini was uniform, prepared slightly past al dente, and loaded with butter, black pepper, and chopped scallions.Topped simply with a drizzle of fresh lemon juice and flanked with both chunks and shredded King Crab there was nothing about this dish that reinvented the wheel, just great ingredients nicely prepared and presented simply – it was delicious and not nearly as filling as one would have guessed.
More conversation for the table, more wine for the gentleman, and a visit from Chef Humm would precede the third course of our meal – for my friends they each opted for the Beef – Tenderlon and Cheek Roasted with Celery Root and Black Truffles, Mirepoix which I did not taste while I myself decided on the Pork – Variations (Belly, Loin, Confit) with Mustard Spatzle and apple cider.Noting to Chris that I find mustard to be somewhat overwhelming he mentioned my concern to the kitchen and accordingly they left off the mustard sauce while instead adding a cider and pork reduction to the mustard infused spatzle.Pink, perfect, and easily cut with the edge of a fork the loin was delicious while the belly featured a layer of crackling skin over the melted fat and collagen – it was textbook.Flanked on all sides by the mustard tinged spatzle I must say it was still a little too much for my tastes, but the cider reduction and confit certainly helped.
Nearing the third hour at the four top our next course would be the special request that led to the meal in the first place – the Whole Roasted Muscovy Duck Glazed with Honey, Fennel Seed, and Lavender.With the 14-17 day aging process explained at length by Chris the whole bird was next presented for our perusal and the smell, to say the least, was intoxicating.Returned to the kitchen in order to be plated it would be a mere ten minutes before the well portioned bird would return to the table accompanied by kumquats and roasted turnips and topped with orange infused duck jus at tableside.With the crispy lacquered skin and rosy medium flesh dancing with notes of lavender and the sweetness of honey the dish was every bit as good as the rumors – a standout at a restaurant where everything ranges from very good to excellent.
With the taste of the duck still vivid on the palate it would be only a short time before the next course would arrive to transition us from savory to sweet – a taste that seemed as though it were custom made to follow the duck.Titled Variations of Jasmine and Orange the day’s palate cleanser would be a lovely textural interplay of Jasmine Sorbet, Orange Short Bread, Orange Snow, Milk Foam, Cilantro, and sections of tangerine.At one moment sweet, another moment savory, sometimes cold, sometimes crunchy – a palate cleanser that could easily stand up as a proper dessert.
With desserts en route, the next part of our experience would truly be an experience – the show of the evening as Chris prepared Intelligentsia’s carefully selected Toarco Jaya Reserve beans from North Toraja, Sulawesi via Siphon method.Explaining each step as he progressed in great detail the whole experience was a step above anything I’ve experienced thus far in terms of assuring purity of flavor and body – the result was fragrant and smooth with a velvet mouth-feel and notes of fig and caramel most notable.At $22 the coffee certainly is not cheap, but it is enough to serve three and as such certainly not out of line with what one would pay for a similar quality bean elsewhere – and that is without the show.
For our desserts the choices were a case of opposites – for myself vanilla and for my co-diners chocolate.Beginning first with my selection, an EMP classic, I was served the Vanilla Soufflé with Quark and Passion Fruit.Tall, proud, fluffy, and finished tableside there really is not much more that can be said of the souffle – it was perfect.What was most remarkable about the dish was the manner in which the intensely sweet passion fruit offset the pungent cheese – the pairing mixed with the heavy vanilla tones forming a veritable cheesecake cloud, neither too sweet nor too savory.
For my companions, “Chocolate” would place a dark chocolate crémeux amidst rounds of crunchy caramelized Banana, Black Sesame infused chocolate crumble, and dollops of caramel and yuzu.Taking only a small bite of the portion offered I have to admit that I did not get a great representation of the nuances of the dish, but the savory sesame and deep chocolate was great while the crackling shell of the banana balls was an admittedly cool effect.
Sitting and enjoying our coffee as the restaurant began to prepare for dinner service the final bites of our afternoon would arrive as Lavender Chocolate Macarons and Peanut Brittle Tuille – both tasty, the macarons a bit gummy, but flavorful and floral without being overpowering.Arriving along with the mignardises were the check and our descriptive menus presented in a black envelope, as well – a menu that was unfortunately noted later to have been printed incorrectly, mine for instance containing the descriptor for the Hamachi but not the Foie – a small detail to be sure.
With the sun outside beginning to fall and folks starting to arrive for dinner service I was surprised to find that we were not the only table remaining – as a matter of fact there were two others enjoying their wine and desserts.With conversation still flowing we were never rushed but realizing I was due for dinner reservations in less than an hour the bill was paid we bid our team farewell.With final parting gifts including the newest Relais & Chateaux Guide, a complete collection of the EMP books, and a jar of Honey Raisin Granola in hand we made our way to the street and I bid my new friends farewell for now and thanked them for a lovely afternoon – the sort of afternoon that breeds fond memories and repeat customers, the sort of afternoon that shows a restaurants progress over time, and the sort of afternoon that this time did indeed “wow.”
I have a number of stories of fantastic and admittedly some border on gluttony – five hour 25+ course meals, tasting menus followed by dessert tastings elsewhere, a $95 egg and breakfast, lunch, and dinner with foie gras in a single day are some of my favorites,While I admit that there are times when I look back on such occasions and wonder what I was thinking, in the end they’re almost all invariably worth it.Setting the proverbial “table” with the comments above, the three meals comprising February 18, 2011 set another sort of record – all inclusive they entailed nearly 12 hours seated at a table with food, beverages, and friends – a virtual marathon of great memories.
Beginning the day early with a jog around Chelsea and a subsequent trip to the post office, the first stop on my tour du jour was a place I’d meant to visit on my last two trips to New York but had never made it to for one reason or another – Andrew Carmellini’s hip and casual Locanda Verde – a bustling joint serving breakfast, lunch, brunch, and dinner while fashioning itself as an Italian Tavern.Arriving just after opening I was surprised to find the space already half filled and quite loud despite the early hour – Friday business meetings abound.Seated quickly and presented with a copy of the menu by the hostess I was left to browse.
Checking out the innumerable bottles, mirrors, woods, and stools that comprise Locanda Verde I have to tip my hat to the design team – it certainly felt like a bustling tavern.Seated close to the window and closer to the pastry bar it took me little time to know what I wanted on the menu and I turned my attention to the pastries – ostensibly for “later.”After approximately 4-5 minutes my server, Julia, would stop by and ask if I wanted coffee.Always agreeable to such an offer it would take some time before the pot would arrive, delivered by a young ancillary server who would keep the cup full to the brim throughout my stay.A tad too citrus for my personal tastes, I honestly forgot to inquire who provided Locanda Verde’s beans, but at $4 with unlimited refills I couldn’t complain.
With Julia the only person I actually saw working (literally, five people were standing at the hostess podium kibitzing the whole time I was there) aside from a couple bussers it would be approximately ten minutes before my order was taken, but thankfully only approximately ten more before the first dish would arrive.Likely LV’s signature item at this point, Sheeps’ Milk Ricotta with Truffle honey and burnt orange toast was my first selection – and it was good.With mounds of smooth and creamy ricotta topped off with honey, fennel, rosemary, and olive oil sitting alongside buttery and faintly citrus tinged toast it is hard to say what the best way to consume the plate was – to savor the lovely cheese on its own, or to let it be tamed by the toast.Alternating back and forth between these two options I’ll simply note that both are worth trying, but as a solo diner you’re bound to run into palate fatigue either way as the portion is quite ample.
With the ricotta only approximately 1/2 consumer, my second course would thankfully be much lighter albeit less delicious.Titled Toasted Hazelnut French Toast with citrus salad I’ll simply note that the dish was neither bad nor remarkable, despite its intriguing ingredient list.With a general preference leaning towards more custard-style French toast, this version featured a crispy exterior studded with hazelnuts and a sweet brioche interior that was unfortunately still largely uncooked bread.Topped with sweet Clementine oranges and bitter grapefruit slices and a bit of mint plus a sidecar of pure (and warmed) maple syrup the overall balance was largely skewed to the sweet, something I prefer, but overall it just didn’t justify the $15 price tag.
With a couple of pastries ordered to go the check was next delivered along with a final serving of coffee to go cup it was at this point that I realized a couple of inconsistencies in the bill – namely, the $12 ricotta was billed at $14 (despite being listed online for $9,) the French Toast billed at $15 as opposed to its menu price of $14, and the muffin was billed at $4.50 despite clearly being indicated on the board for $3.75.Not one to quibble prices, these inconsistencies were just a bit too strange to ignore and as such (after waiting 15 minutes) I inquired and received a “well, the menu prices recently went up but we haven’t changed the menus yet – let me see what I can do.”What she could do, invariably, was leave me waiting another 15 minutes while the five folks at the podium had a meeting of the minds as to how to remove $3.75 from the bill.
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Making my way to the street and subsequently to the post office before heading to the Rubin for a long afternoon of art I decided to forgo waiting on the pastries given my day’s eating agenda and opened the bag.Starting first with the oft raved Apple Cider donut – it was still warm – but it wasn’t very good.All oily, minimally apple – perhaps I’m jaded from my years of living in the middle of Apple Cider country, but aside from a few cinnamon notes here and there it just didn’t’ do it for me, so much so that I ended up leaving half for the pigeons.
Fairing vastly better than the donut, my second pastry was the previously mentioned $3.75 blueberry polenta muffin – after a single bite I fully admit I’d have paid $4.50 and maybe more.Chock-a-block full of soft and sweet blueberries juxtaposed against pockets of butter and cinnamon and all set before the backdrop of a slightly coarse and textural cornmeal – an absolute must order and reason enough alone to visit Locanda Verde for breakfast – just make sure you look over your bill.
The evening of 3/17 would place one of my favorite bands in a venue at the top of my “must visit” list – Interpol at Radio City Music Hall.Having seen the band 6 times but never in their home town at such a venue it was largely the concert that prompted me to make this particular trip to NYC in the first place.With an 8:00pm door time and an opening act that left me underwhelmed four days prior, however, a pre-concert meal was obviously in order and as such I decided to spend it with the man who crafted the best meal I’ve ever had in New York City, a 25+ course extended tasting that still resonates with me over a year later – Jonathan Benno.
With enough already made of Benno’s choice to leave Per Se (only 2 nights after my meal there) for Lincoln and the exorbitant cost involved in almost every aspect of Lincoln’s design I will only briefly touch on the space – a futuristic shard rising out of Lincoln Center – in a word the exterior is “striking.”Making a brief diversion prior to my 5:30 reservation (more on this later) I will also note that Lincoln Center was entirely abuzz on this particular day with an opera, a ballet, and the end of Fashion Week all coinciding with the day of my meal – given the lack of traffic cops for such a convergence of events I will simply note that my trip to the hostess stand was something akin to the video game Frogger.
Entering the lower lobby I was immediately greeted by a young woman who confirmed my reservation and checked my coat before leading me up the stairs.Greeted at yet another hostess stand by a team of three I was immediately struck by the dynamic of the dining room – long, dark, and left centered with the gleaming white of the kitchen to my right.With the room only a quarter full but soon to be at capacity with people waiting I was led promptly to a two-top in direct view of the kitchen and while I have to say I did not fancy the steel and cream leather “office chairs” filling the space, they certainly were comfortable and provided a degree of contrast to the sturdy black wooden tables.
Seated next to a lovely octogenarian solo diner who was due to meet her son-in-law at the opera we chatted briefly (and throughout the meal) before my server, an obvious veteran of the New York dining scene, Jeffrey would arrive with the menu, wine menu, and a clever sense of humor.Declining wine I first noted that the tasting menu had been truncated and lowered in cost – and as expected, the online menu was severely out of date with a restaurant that changes at least a portion of their options daily.Asking if parts of the tasting could be ordered a la carte I was informed that this would not be a problem at all and with little delay my order was placed.
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Watching the kitchen move and listening to the light overhead concerto with occasional interruptions to chat with my neighbor I’ll note that while there is no doubt who is in charge of the kitchen, I only heard Chef Benno yell once during the 2:15 minute meal – otherwise the kitchen moved like a well polished machine.Service was friendly and conversational between myself and Jeffery while other tables dining as a group received less enthusiasm but equally in depth descriptions and suggestions.Ancillary service was hit or miss – while water remained filled throughout, empty plates often remained longer than one would expect – the longest remaining plates being the steel tray and tower combination bearing the now-signature opening volley of chili powder grissini and toasted flatbreads with lardo and sea salt – the grissini far too spicy for my Midwestern tongue but the flatbreads quite tasty.
Arriving next would be a collection of assorted Italian olives, fennel pollen taralli crackers, and crispy parcels of ricotta and spinach – each decent, none memorable.
For the nightly bread selection a collection of three warm and distinct flavors would arrive from the kitchen.All baked in house and served with a buttery and vegetal olive oil and cannellini bean and roasted garlic puree the choices of the day were foccaccia with melted lardo rosemary and black pepper, sesame 9-grain, and rustic Italian.With each bread offering something different I must admit that after a bite of the Italian and the nine-grain I remained with the foccaccia for the rest of the night – I mean, really, how can you argue with warm foccacia, pig fat, and rosemary – especially when topped with a smooth and garlicky compote?
My final amuse of the evening would be the best of the group and a substantial portion at that – tartar of big eye tuna with fennel, basil, and olive oil.While tuna tartar is clearly a played theme, this ceviche styled version all but melted on the tongue while and the vegetal ingredients acted in composition with the fish to highlight the sweeter tones of the protein.
Kicking off the menu proper, now approximately 50 minutes and ten different tastes into my meal, would be my request from the nightly tasting.For $24, Terrina Di Anguilla Affumicata E Fegato Grasso (Smoked Eel and Foie Gras Terrine, Bosc Pear, Sicilian Pistachios, Balsamico Gran Riserva Oro) would not disappoint.Weighing in at likely 1.5-2.0 ounces, the terrine itself was uniquely presented with the eel deboned, smoked, and packed into the unctuous liver – a remarkable taste and textural pairing that pleased the tongue and eye.Sitting alongside the terrie was a boozy pear tossed with grassy pistachios while a line of balsamic graced the front of the plate.While I’ll note that I generally prefer my terrines with a warm bread or toast, the dish was otherwise quite impressive and balanced.
Next moving into heavier dishes, my second selection was from the side dish section – in this case the daily gnocchi:Gnocchi di Patate Al Tartufo Nero.Listed at $25 but billed at only $14 (the normal daily price when the dish is served without truffles) this dish was the steal of the trip and every bit as good as the similarly fashioned gnocchi with black truffles that I remember from my extended tasting at the French Laundry.Perfect morsels of melting butter and potato, castelmagno cheese, and earthy aromatic truffles – after watching me enjoy each bite my neighbor opted to forgo dessert and order one of her own.
Course three would be another pairing of carb, cheese, and truffle – this time Speck e Polenta.Presented in a shallow bowl patterned precisely off of those at TFL and Per Se, the dish featured creamy Anson Mills White Polenta intermingling with Castelrosso cheese and chopped black truffles.Topping the dish off with four thin slices of uncured pork the flavors all balanced well and, as an additional surprise, the base of the bowl was layered with another thin layer of truffles.
For my final selection of the evening, a proper pasta – I just had to see if a $3,500 pasta machine was worth the hype.With three selections catching my eye this was the one course where I deferred to my server who offered up the Rigatoni as his favorite without a second thought.Noting to me that the portion sizes of the pastas had recently been increased and that I had ordered a lot of heavy food I assured him I would be okay, but when the dish arrived I had to admit I was surprised at the size – vastly larger than a pasta at Babbo, Del Posto, Marea, or Scarpetta.Titled Rigatoni Al Salsiccia Piccante the nicely prepared al dente tubes were matched with spicy Berkshire Pork Sausage, Salvatore Brooklyn Ricotta, Fresh Basil, and a toss of mildly acidic tomato sauce.Simply done, rustic, and delicious even if perhaps a bit overpriced at $22.
At this point I was starting to get a little full but clearly dessert was a must.With Jeffery delivering the menu and strongly recommended the Spumone he began to describe the nightly sorbet selections to which my neighbor (who’d declined the sweets menu perhaps 10 minutes earlier) piped up and said “Are they as good as Grom?”Not understanding the question I explained to him what Grom was and that, in fact, they had just opened a new location just south of Columbus circle.With my order placed I additionally opted for a French Press of coffee – a $4.50 12oz of what I believe was Lavazza’s standard blend.
Returning next with a spoon for myself and one for my neighbor it appeared Jeffery had clearly taken it upon himself to let us decide whether the house sorbetti and gelati were “as good as Grom.”Presented with three flavors each – Mint Stracciatella, Oro Blanco Grapefruit, and Malted Milk for myself and Chocolate, Fennel, and Bosc Pear for my neighbor.With each scoop rested atop a complimentary crumble and topped with a thin crispy tuille I really cannot say whether the flavors were better than Grom, but they were all quite good and my neighbor definitely thought her Bosc Pear was Grom level.
Moving on to my proper dessert (and at this point quite full,) this dish would be the first less-than-excellent ordered course of the night largely because it wasn’t what I expected.Titled Budino All Averna E Cannolo Di Ricotta E Cioccolato, I rather expected a proper budino pudding, but what I received instead was a sort of hybrid dish featuring two chocolate shelled cannoli stuffed with ricotta and mascarpone and an dense chocolate ganache flanking candied kumquats.While bold and tasty with the chocolate nicely accented by the fruits I guess I just had anticipated something more akin to the glorious Budino of Pizzeria Mozza and Osteria – two of the best desserts I had in 2010.
Delivered along with the bill, the night’s selection of mignardises would include a Caramel Licorice, Sesame Biscotti, and Gianduja with Hazelnut.Not at all a fan of Licorice I was pleasantly surprised by the mildness in the caramels and actually favored it the most of the troika – but with that said, none were anything I couldn’t have done without.Settling the bill and requesting a copy of the menu, I was surprised when Jeffery offered me a brief tour of the kitchen where I got to chat with the chef a bit and he signed the menu without prompting – compared to my visit at Per Se he actually seemed much less rushed and intense than when I met him at Per Se – he even joked that the night prior Jerry Seinfeld had been in the house and made a comment that the kitchen was like a giant “chef tank.”
Making my way down the street I was once again struck by the criticism that Benno has gotten for Lincoln – prices too expensive, the room too impersonal, the portions too small – none of it seemed valid, though clearly changes have been made since the spot originally opened.While the experience is certainly not Per Se and the location certainly means different things to different people – a dining destination for some versus a pre-theater bite for others, I think the space is elegant and unstuffy, the food precise yet familiar, and the kitchen like nothing I’ve ever seen – my only suggestion would be to better focus the ancillary courses, but then again I’m not sure if Keller was serving the salmon cone and gougere every night at The French Laundry when it first opened.
Walking quickly with coat delivered from downstairs I made my way out to the street by 7:45 and found myself waiting in line at Radio City by 8:05 – perfect timing – yet for a moment a bit of worry.Noting the “no outside food or drink” sign I suddenly remembered my pre-meal diversion – Levain Bakery – and the nearly two pounds of (IE, two total) cookies in my pocket.With security thankfully wand based only the cookies survived – at least until 10:00pm.
Having admittedly taken a bite of each when they were delivered warm to my hand prior to entering Lincoln all I can say is that these are not those flimsy cookies your co-workers bring to the office party each December – these are more like a half-softball of butter, flour, sugar, and love.With one chocolate chip and one chocolate with peanut butter chip I cannot really say which was better, only that both were every bit worth the price, calories, and stomach capacity.Perhaps I’m a bit biased and perhaps a bit jaded by the experience, but all things being equal I’d have to say Levain Cookies + Radio City + Interpol is about as close to heaven as it gets.
To be entirely honest I’d never tasted Portuguese food before – I’d never even really given it much thought coming from small town Ohio where the closest we get to Spanish food is poorly conceived tapas made by sub-average line-cooks.Acknowledging this deficit in my culinary acumen after hearing about George Mendes, his rustic yet refined approach to Portuguese cooking, and his newly acquired Michelin Star I immediately turned to the reviews and then to the menus – what struck me right away were the glowing words of praise from trusted palates and a menu that featuring four of my favorite things – a reservation for one at the chef’s table/bar would follow in short order.
Walking past the Rubin museum en route from Time Warner Center I would, as usual, be early for my reservation – yet on my arrival the narrow restaurant was surprisingly barren – a lone couple in the front and a solo diner at the chef’s counter in back.A bit surprised given the attention that Mendes and his cuisine have received in recent months my bag and coat were checked by a pleasant young woman and I was quickly led to the opposite end of the chef’s counter where a wine list was provide and declined – iced water would suffice.Within moments the menu was in my hands and Shannon, a pleasant young woman who seemed to be the only server working at lunch, would explain the prix fixe vs. a la carte options and leave me a moment to decide.With the restaurant so empty I’ll note that service was efficient but not overly friendly – plates were delivered, empty plates collected, water filled – no more, no less.
Watching the action of the kitchen (from a vastly better seat than that of Compose) it seemed that Mendes was not present that afternoon, yet everything moved quickly, efficiently, and quietly.With my menu decisions made I motioned to Shannon that I was ready and as I was placing my order the room seemed to lighten up a bit as a group of four women were led in by the hostess and Chef Mendes appeared from upstairs with a bottle of wine for the diner at the end of the chef’s counter – apparently a supplier with whom Mendes was very familiar and would spend most of the afternoon chatting with about various issues while also tending to the kitchen.Always teaching but never lecturing I must say it was impressive to watch Mendes explain technique to his chefs and look over each plate as it left the kitchen – and after the supplier left he stepped right into line with the group – a respected member of the team more than their “boss.”
With my order placed and my first dish delivered while Mendes spoke with his friend at the bar I will note that I missed out on the daily amuse given to subsequent guests – a mussel soup in a shot glass; as such my first flavor of Aldea would be the house bread – a tasty rustic bread with a smoky crust and delicate crumb that paired nicely with the smooth and fruity house olive oil.
As an appropriate start to a veritable greatest hits collection for my palate, the first course of the afternoon would be delivered from the charcuterie section – the Cured Foie Gras with Bosc Pear, Maple, and White Port.First noting the price, $18, this was a significant piece of liver and the texture was creamy and perfectly prepared – not a vein or textural variant to be found.Served with two meager slices of brioche – a small gripe that I’d later note at four other restaurants on the same trip – the Foie’s plate mates were faultless – the caramelized pears, the crispy maple candy, the cocoa nibs, and most of all the drizzle of sweetened and reduced port.
Following one must order, another – an egg dish.Served as a “Slow poached egg with hen consommé, Benton’s bacon, root vegetables, and winter black truffles” the dish was amongst the best of my visit to New York.One part soup, one part upscale breakfast for lunch there was not a single unnecessary ingredient in the dish and after watching it prepared I realized where all that brioche I wanted with my Foie was going – into the soup as crispy buttery croutons.Clean and clear broth, smooth and creamy egg, crispy salty bacon, and parsnips/potatoes/carrots aplenty all topped off with the heady aroma of truffle.
With no gnocchi on the menu to complete my perfect quartet, the final savory of the meal would be duck in the form of Mendes’ signature “Arroz de Pato.”Essentially a saffron accented paella imbued with poultry (perhaps duck) stock and tossed with salty olives, spicy chorizo, crispy cracklins’, and confit leg the dish is finally topped with sous vide breast to form something utterly remarkable yet entirely rustic and familiar.With crisp rice at the base and splotches of Clementine orange arranged at the perimeter the dish was everything you could ask for in terms of taste, texture, and even visual appeal – something difficult to pull off with rice dishes in my opinion.
Tempted to go with the oft cited “Little Dreams” dessert my mind made a quick 180 when I saw the option on the daily lunch tasting – no matter how hard I try I simply can’t pass up bread pudding.Ordered up without a second thought it would take some time for the dish to be prepared – and for good reason in that although the bread was already soaking, the dish was entirely uncomposed otherwise.Craning my neck to watch the pastry chef in the back work her magic, Banana Caramel Bread Pudding would not disappoint – nor would its accompanying crème fraiche sorbet.Made once again with the same excellent brioche that paired with the foie and the egg but this time loaded with banana and creamy caramel before being topped with a crunchy cinnamon streusel and entering the oven the pudding was intensely sweet and hefty while the sorbet was distinctly airy and tangy – at a mere $8 a veritable bargain.
With the restaurant still less than half full but the table behind me making quite the racket I settled the bill in short order and made my way to the front where I collected my coat and made my way to the street sated but not overly full, very happy with the food but not overly impressed with the service or ability to interact with the kitchen staff despite the “Chef’s counter” concept.Bold and satisfying I will most definitely say that my first experience with Portuguese cooking was a favorable one and I wouldn’t hesitate to return for some of the less obvious choices in the future – chef’s counter or not – as there is no doubt in my mind that Mendes is a talented man whose career will only continue to blossom.
Heading south to collect my belongings as I would be changing hotel rooms that evening I opted to walk the path down 2nd Avenue – one of my very favorites for people watching in the LES – and in the process I happened to walk by David Chang’s Momofuku Ssam and Milk Bar.Borrowing a riff from my sister’s book that one is “never too full for ice cream” and having heard good things about the new cake truffles I decided to stop in and found Led Zeppelin’s 10-Years Gone, my favorite song of all time, playing overhead – call it fate?
Making my way past three hipsters at one of the standing counters and waiting in line behind a young father and his daughter ordering a Franken-Pie I browsed my options and was met by a friendly young lady who offered me a taste of the soft serve but unfortunately informed me that one cannot mix and match the truffles – 3 of the same flavor for $3 only.Only slightly disheartened and planning to return later in the trip if necessary I opted for a taste of the Malted Milk ice cream and while it was decent, the French toast was much better and as such I selected a 50/50 split of Cereal Milk and French Toast.Trying to decide if I wanted a cookie or a slice of pie I (shockingly) remembered that there was plenty more eating to be done I made my way to the street just as The Strokes “Electricityscape” was kicking in – a song that kept me in the store to finish my ice cream.
Thursday morning started early with me in the LES and a need to be in midtown by 9:30am.Having twice attempted to go to Clinton Street Baking Company on previous visits to New York only to be thwarted by waits greater than one hour for a single person this time I made no mistakes – I arrived at 7:45 and was there when Neil Kleinberg arrived – and when a young man delivering fresh fruits and vegetables arrived on bike.By 8:00am when the doors opened there were nine people behind me in line and by the time I was leaving at 8:45 there was a 20-30 minute wait for a table – sure it was National Pancake Month and Clinton Street reportedly makes the best in the city, but it was also a Thursday morning.
Seated promptly at a small two-top along the wall I was handed a menu and told they had four styles of pancake on the menu that day – the famous blueberry version, a chocolate chunk, a banana walnut version, and Almond Frangipane with Fresh Raspberries, Toasted Almonds, Raspberry Sauce, and Almond syrup.Ordering a coffee that would remain topped off by my server, Shelby, and her team I additionally ordered up a muffin while my pancakes were made to order.
Sitting back and listening to the whimsical 80’s soundtrack overhead and the unintentionally overhearing the previous night’s escapades from my hipster neighbors it would only be moments before the Banana Chocolate Chunk Muffin would arrive along with the mildly acidic and not particularly impressive coffee.Streusel topped and buttery, the muffin itself was still warm from the oven and as such rather messy given the substantial load of dark chocolate within.Served with fresh raspberry jam and butter the muffin was a fork and knife affair and quite excellent – as a matter of fact, all the baked goods at Clinton Street Bakery looked excellent.
With seemingly every table around me opting for either pancakes or the buttermilk biscuit sandwich (and a particularly hung over fellow to my right getting a maple butter pecan ice shake and burger for breakfast) mine would be the first to arrive and I have to admit I instantly understood the hype.Light and fluffy, stacked three high, and absolutely loaded with raspberries and toasted almonds plus a sidecar of buttery almond syrup these pancakes are the prototype for what a buttermilk pancake should look like and feel like in the mouth.Rather understated despite the bold ingredients each flavor complimented the other nicely and despite the large portion size everything was quite light – very much unlike other pancakes which can sit in the belly like a lead weight.At $15 the price is a tad higher than one would expect, but the ingredients are clearly top notch and while not the best pancakes I’ve ever had, they are certainly the best I’ve had in New York.
While there was a line forming outside, I was told to take my time with the check and even received a last refill of my coffee at that time – asking for the coffee to go (no sense in letting it go to waste) I was given a paper cup and upon settling the modest tab and making my way to the streets I had plenty of time to walk uptown and arrive at my destination almost 5 minutes early.Having tried to visit in the past I can say now that had I waited more than an hour I’d probably not have been as enthused about my visit to Clinton Street Baking Company, but if you are motivated enough to beat the crowd then Clinton Street is definitely worth the visit – though in retrospect I wish I’d have gotten a shake instead of the coffee.
With my daily obligations filled by 11:00 and no lunch reservations until 12:30 the next stop on my culinary tour would be a personal favorite that always finds its way onto my New York (or Vegas, or Yountville, or now Los Angeles) agenda – Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery.Fully admitting to be a fan of Chef Keller and equally so of his ever changing rotation of baked goods I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived at Time Warner Center to find not only some new options, but also myriad large metal works celebrating my favorite artist – Salvador Dali – on display.Browsing for a while before making my way upstairs to place my order I fully admit it took longer than usual to decide as there were at least ten new options I’d not tried.
With decisions made, purchased, and bagged I made my way through the rest of the Dali exhibit while enjoying my selections – the first a raspberry almond croissant – what can I say, after breakfast it seemed like the only logical choice.Having always found Bouchon croissants to be amply crunchy and plenty butter but lacking the airy pockets inherent to most French Croissants this one was no different – it was rather flat but absolutely loaded with fresh fruit and pockets of butter mixed with sweet spots – almost a half-scone/half-croissant pastry.
For my other half of the order – how can one turn down those fist sized macarons – especially when the flavors are Peanut Butter and Jelly and Orange Vanilla Bean – IE, Creamsicle.With that perfect crackle giving way to Keller’s slightly less than airy style sandwich cookie each were again stunning examples that purists may call too “gummy” but for me pretty much summarize why I keep coming back again and again – the flavor.While I still believe La Maison du Chocolate to make a slightly superior Chocolate and Pistachio than Bouchon, the variety of flavors and sheer size of Keller’s collection will invariably keep me coming back each and every time I’m in a city where they are available – and in the case of New York, I’ll look forward to visiting the second location at Rockefeller center just as soon as it opens.
Substantial hype is both a gift and a curse – on one hand the exclusivity of ten diners five days a week plus a chef coming off his stage at the best restaurant in the world is sure to fill seats and create buzz – on the other, when one is lucky enough to land one of the “exactly one month in advance” seats from Opentable, the expectations are high – perhaps unreasonably so for a restaurant that is so new and a chef that is so young.Often times I have no trouble resisting hype – especially when it surrounds new restaurants that no trusted palates have experienced…other times I am game, usually with mixed results.On my recent trip to New York City I took the bait hook, line, and sinker – one seat at the Compose bar at 7:00pm on the night of my arrival.
Making my way south into the lower parts of Tribeca I must admit that had I not known what I was looking for I’d have never had a clue there was a restaurant at 77 Worth Street – to the naked eye the building is a veterinarian office and pet wellness center.Walking right past but noting the bar through the window I turned around and made my way through the door where I was greeted first by the door man and second by the host – a young fellow who noted my reservation and the fact that I was from Ohio, ironically just like the door man and one of the servers.The first to arrive, approximately 10 minutes early, my bag and coat were checked and I was led to a seat at the bar – one of the 5-6 (out of 10) seats with no view what-so-ever of the kitchen.Uncertain as to why one would have a “chef’s counter” with no vision of the kitchen I inquired about the other seats but was told the seating was already arranged due to the other parties (and the fact that my original co-diner had opted out last minute.)Figuring this was fair I settled in and waited while listening to the sounds of the kitchen and non-descript music playing overhead.
Glossy and sleek, ordained with specially cut ice and a plethora of fruits and spirits the bar was quite the site to behold while the padded barstools with excellent lumbar support were a vast improvement to those at Ko.Seated with napkin unfolded and house filtered water poured the next person to greet me would be the bartender – a man I would see a whole lot more than any of than the chefs throughout the course of the evening and although charming, rather pushy in suggesting beverages.A light weight when it comes to alcohol I made it evident from the start that I wasn’t particularly interested in cocktails or wine pairings, but on his third “are you sure – tell me what you like,” prompting I conceded to “something with rum and fruit” and received an intricate cocktail of fresh squeezed lime and pineapple juice, Amadeus almond liquor, Smith and Cross aged Jamaican Rum, Luxardo maraschino liqueur, and green chartreuse over crushed ice.Taking nearly 7 minutes to craft I will admit that given the quality and flavor this was one of the better cocktails I’ve ever had and at $15 it was actually a relative bargain considering it’s alcohol content – easily 2-3oz that would leave me a bit warm and loose throughout the meal.
As 7:05 approached the second pair of diners would arrive and the non-tasting seats would fill quickly to capacity – by 7:20 all but two of the tasting menu diners would arrive with the last folks arriving around 7:40, approximately 10 minutes after the amuses had commenced.With general manager Eamon Rockey greeting myself and each subsequent diner starting around 7:15 chef Curtin would approach each of us individually at 7:30 to welcome us and make absolutely certain that all dietary restrictions were accounted for (I heard at least 3 shell fish allergies, 2 religious pork intolerances, one tree nut allergy, and one alcohol intolerance at least.)
At 7:31 the first of four amuses would arrive – the dish that, at least from early reviews, seems to be a constant signature – Duck Fat Popcorn with sea salt.Clearly taking advantage of the high temperatures allotted by animal fat as opposed to butter the popcorn was intensely crunchy without being burned and the mildly gamey flavor was lightly accented with a dusting of salt – a pleasant opening taste, but certainly nothing worthy of signature status.
The second course to hit the table was certainly more interesting than the first – both in construction and texture.Described as Kir Royale Gelee the dish was detailed as being creme de cassis and Champagne based and utilizing a special extraction and carbonation container to “over carbonate” the cube.A single bite the gelee absolutely erupted on the tongue – like an entire glass of champagne bubbles in a single bite – spicy, fruity, intense, and fun.
At this point I feel it pertinent to note by the time the second amuse arrived it was already 8:00pm and the subsequent courses would arrive at intervals ranging from two minutes to twenty.In addition to these timing issues, as the restaurant filled and the bartenders shook drink after drink the noise level became both loud and jarring – not Ko loud, but certainly more intermittent.While water remained full throughout the evening, the chefs bringing plates from the kitchen also seemed to serve at random and no one was ever really sure who presented the dish which led to me thrice receiving a description of the dish from three different people and multiple times from both Chef Curtin and at least one other chef (with the descriptions often somewhat different, as well.)I find this relevant to mention here as the third amuse would be the Ocean Sphere dish – a dish presented by a sous-chef and subsequently described by the bartender and then Chef Curtin.Featuring what my palate and ears have surmised to be a spherification of oyster emulsion, Langoustine cream, pickled shallot, and grated seaweed we were instructed to slurp the dish like an oyster and the resultant taste was brine balanced with mild sweetness – decent, but largely using “mg” technique for the sake of using the technique rather than elevating the cuisine.
The final amuse of the evening was the World’s Smallest Baked Potato with Osetra Caviar, Green Onion, and Crème Fraiche – a perfect little spud, soft and supple, with lovely accoutrements – there was no way this dish could fail.
Starting the proper tasting, course one of our ten courses would arrive around 8:20pm in the form of Baby Red Beet with Raw beet vinaigrette, Jerusalem Artichoke, Charred Vidalia Onion, Pomegranate Sauce, and Sorrel.Presented rather simply on a curved plate, this dish seemed rather simple until fork and knife met vegetable – at this point the beet literally began to ooze – a process that would not stop for the duration of the course.Apparently sous-vided and then dehydrated/rehydrated the beet was imbued with a hearty yet sweet essence that mingled nicely with the small slices of artichoke and the accompanying sauces were sweet, savory, and smoky – each providing a different experience.A very well composed dish and amongst my top three for the night.
Course two would feature Crudo of Fluke with Basil, Anise, Hyssop, Puffed Wild Rice, Mint, and Smoked Grape.Nicely prepared and exquisitely textured, the Crudo matched with puffed rice was undoubtedly the highlight of this dish while the smoked grape was an interesting touch – it tasted nothing like a grape, yet at the same time its mouth texture was every bit what one would expect.With the base strong, this dish was unfortunately unnecessarily complicated and I felt the Mint, Anise, and Hyssop largely detracted from the overall experience – while that may personally be my aversion to mint with meat, I overheard my neighbors note similar; “fluke is too mild for all this mint.”
The third dish would prove to be the worst of the evening – not because it didn’t taste good, but because the texture and temperature execution failed.Titled Butternut Squash Soup with Maple-Sherry Vinaigrette, Cold Chestnut Foam this dish seemed to want to be Achatz’s Hot Potato/Cold Potato dish, but unfortunately became “luke warm sweetened squash puree” by the time it arrived – again, style over substance because it was actually really tasty and could have been excellent if served at proper soup temperature like the version I’d experience at Bouley three days later.
Dish four would be my second favorite of the night and in terms of uniqueness it was perhaps the best. Described as Sous-Vide diver scallop with baby fennel puree, butternut squash confited in bacon, and dill the brilliance of this dish was the execution of the scallops – four melt-in-the-mouth morsels that tasted part scallop and part salt-water taffy – like nothing I’ve ever tasted before.Pairing this flavor with savory fennel plus gnocchi-textured cuts of squash that tasted only mildly of salty pork, the dish was almost upscale surf and turf without a single bite of land animal on the plate.
Dish five was taken from the noma text book and although good was much more style than substance.With a large rock claimed to be 450 degrees emerging from the kitchen first we were instructed not to touch.Moments later a large shrimp was added to the stone and allowed to cook before us.With Chef Curtin next emerging from the kitchen the shrimp was flipped over using a fondue fork and a squirt of smoked paprika and herbs were added with instructions to eat whenever we were ready.Taken whole the shrimp was clean, sweet, and nicely prepared while the paprika lent a bit of bite and smoke – but theatrics aside this was a seared shrimp, no more and no less.
Course six was another excellent flavor, but certainly nothing overly novel.Titled Butter Poached Maine Lobster with Lemon Cream, Cocoa Butter, American Caviar, Nasturtium Leaves, and Chervil everything about this dish felt like something from The French Laundry cookbook – never a bad thing.With a buttery and sweet mitt anchoring the dish, I must admit I really enjoyed the pairing of lemon with cocoa butter while the caviar added the slightest bit of brine.The Chervil and Nasturtium were largely overwhelmed by the other components, but their visual appeal was pleasant.
After course six the table bread would arrive – a single option, and one serving per guest.Titled Potato Chip Bread with Crème Fraiche butter all I can say is that if Compose is going to make bread and butter like this they should probably consider offering it throughout the meal – perhaps as bread pairings or simply as a bread basket.Likely made of 1/2 flour and 1/2 crushed potato chips the bread was crunchy on the exterior and soft within – intensely salty and with a great texture.Paired with curds of slightly sour butter this was a clever take on “chips and dip” that I really liked.All things being equal, perhaps it is good that they don’t offer a basket or refills as I’d have certainly overindulged.
Course seven would be my favorite of the night largely due to personal bias towards egg dishes, but also because it was a situation where every component added to the overall. Titled Poached Egg with roast cauliflower puree, poached oyster mushrooms, Cocoa Nibs, and Artichoke chips the bland white and tan presentation gave way to a texture and flavor experience that was anything but.Nicely poached and creamy the egg itself was excellent, but when paired with the understated cauliflower, fibrous mushrooms, and crisp artichokes the dish tasted the very essence of fresh, natural, and earthy.With the nibs adding a floral top note that lingered on the palate this was one of my five favorite bites of the trip and evidence of Curtin’s skilled hand when he doesn’t try to be overly complex.
Plate eight was the final savory of the evening – but unfortunately it simply didn’t click.Presented as Pork Belly with Charred Red Cabbage, Mint Puree, and Charred Pine nut the dish featured two main components, one a flavorful and fatty slice of pork belly and the other a sort of fibrous disk made of reduced red cabbage and what I believe was pine.Topped with crunchy pine nuts and served with a minty sauce I simply feel that this was a course where either the pine in the cabbage or the mint on the plate needed to be scaled back significantly because overall I felt like I was eating tasty swine in a bathroom – needless to say a substantial part of this dish went back to kitchen, and that part was not the pork belly.
Much needed the next dish would be a palate cleanser – a taste so good it would be the best of the desserts.Described as Sake sorbet with carrot ginger froth, yuzu pudding, micro basil, basil oil, micro shiso, and finger lime this decidedly Eastern influenced dish was actually quite delightful with the sorbet serving as a punchy backdrop but allowing each of the other components to shine forth.While the couple next to me opted to mix everything up and seemed to enjoy the dish as well, I personally opted to attack it piece by piece and was rewarded with different flavors in each bite – the best being when a slice of finger lime, yuzu pudding, and ginger all landed on the palate at once.
Course nine would present the first proper dessert and as cool as it looked, the flavors were just as strange as you would expect from the title – Apple and Pine with Wood, Hay, and Juniper.Having already tasted more than enough pine and mint for the evening, this dish again was a situation where one less ingredient could have proved to be much more in execution.With a tasty poached apple with ample notes of wood and smoke as the base the crunchy pile atop was a sort of hay and juniper flavored “crisp” that was surprisingly tasty and provided a great textural contrast.Beneath the apple, however, was pine – and a lot of it.Another interesting concept marred by one overpowering flavor, but a more restrained hand could have made this a truly unique and delicious experience.
The final dessert of the evening was substantially better than the first, but should have come with more instruction.Titled Oatmeal and Citrus with Blood Orange, Oats, Buckwheat, and Brown Butter the flavors here were excellent and the myriad textures, temperatures, and surprises were nicely designed.Sitting to the right of the plate, however, was a spherification of brown butter that I did not notice until the very end when I popped it into my mouth and received quite the unexpected jolt – I rather imagine it would have been better paired with the divine oatmeal cake and blood orange meringue.
As the clock neared 11:30 Chef Curtin approached with the final bite of the evening – Iced Honey Lavender Crème Brulee.A small ball of crunchy sugar on the outside and the essence of Lavender Honey (rather than soapy lavender or overly sweet honey) within this was excellent.Bidding us farewell and appearing as humble as he’d been throughout the meal he then stopped by to each guest and asked them what they liked and what didn’t work – a nice touch to be sure.With only one small cash register working it would be nearly 20 minutes before the bill was settled while many of the guests hung around for more cocktails.As a final gift before leaving we were each presented a copy of the menu in a wax sealed envelope – a classy touch as Eamon bid each guest a good night.
When it was all said and done I spent nearly 5 hours and 17 tastes with Chef Curtin and team on that Wednesday evening and at a cost of $120 plus $15 for the cocktail I think Compose represents a relative bargain in the world of New York fine dining.While the menu lacked some designer ingredients such as truffles and (to my dismay) foie gras, the ingredients utilized were clearly top notch and Chef Curtin is clearly adept in the kitchen. While I’m still somewhat uncertain as to why one would choose to put a “chef’s counter” restaurant in a space where more than half the diners cannot see the kitchen, I do realize they are doing the best they can with the space available and I respect that.All in all at such a young age (both the chef, the GM, and the restaurant itself) I feel Compose has great potential to live up to the substantial hype, but I think part of that development will be simplifying things a bit – less complexity, a better flow from the kitchen to the table, and perhaps removing some of the ancillary seats to cut down on the noise – and less pine, too.
Lunch wasn’t that big and dinner was not set to begin until 7:30pm – in a day that began with a 7 mile run at 4:30am before hopping a plane to New York at 8:00 there was clearly room for a mid-day snack or two.With art browsing the order of the day and four hours and myriad galleries now separating me from lunch my first ancillary stop would be Billy’s Bakery – a spot I’d omitted on my previous visits but re-targeted for this trip based largely on their business model and reviews from a pair of trusted palates.
To be fair, Billy’s had me at hello – with slogans including “We use only the freshest, highest-quality ingredients in our baked goods, including real butter, whole eggs, and fresh fruit and nuts. We don’t use preservatives in any of our products” and “Classic old fashioned American baked goods made from scratch and served in a warm, friendly atmosphere” it seemed the original shop on 9th was a can’t miss for one of my New York traditions – the cupcake.
Entering the small shop I was first taken at the small size and expected smells of cinnamon, vanilla, sugar, and butter – my guess as to what heaven smells like.With no less than 6 folks mixing, rolling, stirring, and chatting I stood and browsed for a bit before a well tattooed and pierced young lady approached with a mumbled “what can I get you.”While I’m not so sure she was warm or friendly, she was capable of extracting two cupcakes from the case, bagging them, and collecting my $7 before returning to her work in back.
Taking to the street and heading east my first taste of Billy’s would be my standard – the red velvet.Soft and moist without suffering from super-sizing I will note that the three bites were all quite tasty as the smooth cocoa tones of the cake balanced with the creamy and mildly citrus tinged cream cheese frosting.Neither gritty nor overly sweet this to me represented an ideal “classic” red velvet and while not as good as Two Little Red Hens or Bouchon’s classic takes it was quite good.
The second selection would prove to be the better of the two – in this case one of the better cupcakes I’ve ever had.Simply titled “carrot cake” this cupcake was similar in size to the Red Velvet but literally weighed twice as much – to say it was loaded with carrots would be an understatement.Heterogeneous in texture with notes of cinnamon, coconut, pineapple, and pecan blending with the grated carrots the body of the cake proved an ample match to the same cream cheese frosting that topped the Red Velvet.
Continuing my eastward path the next stop on the culinary map was Artichoke Basille’s, a choice that some said was not worth the hassle and others hailed as one of the best slice’s in New York.Regardless of the reviews I fully admit to having been quite neglectful of the New York Pizza scene on past visits and lacking dining partners to experience places only offering a full pie (Keste, Motorino, Co, and all those in Brooklyn) it seemed like a excellent choice for me – especially considering its location in the East Village where people watching, music browsing, and kitschy shopping abound.
Arriving at the small shop started by two brothers in 2008 I must admit I was surprised – the place looks like it could have been there for 50 years.With a short line of 5 ahead of me I made my way into the shop only to realize that all things being equal, 5 was probably the maximum capacity for the waiting area.With a small menu posted on the wall and three pizzas behind the glass case I stood and watched the process for a bit before the young man behind the counter yelled (over Nine Inch Nails “Ringfinger”) “what can I get ya.”One slice of the Artichoke and Spinach – “right on, man” – I felt like a regular.
With the last of the Artichoke and Crab slices having been ordered up by the pair in front of me it would be a mere 5 minutes and $4 while listening to Trent Reznor before my slice would arrive – blistering hot and still bubbling – on a pair of paper plates.Grabbing a napkin and making my way outside the line was now 9 long and I sat down on the curb next to a pair of college kids eating their slices.Assuming the slice now safe enough to eat I took a bite and what greeted my taste buds can only be described as a “wow” moment.Creamy and garlic laden yet ripe with the lovely flavor of artichoke and earthy spinach the top layers gave way to a crust undoubtedly imbued with cornmeal (and perhaps an unknown addictive substance) that was crunchy yet supple with an excellent crumb.While certainly not a “traditional” slice by any stretch, I instantly understood the rumors of hour plus lines at midnight – I’d stand in line for this pizza just like I did for Great Lake – purportedly the “best pizza in America.”
Like many of the “celebrity chefs” I enjoy, my fondness for Mario Batali has roots in fond memories from days past – a meal at Babbo was our first in New York during a visit in 2008 and despite the tricky reservations the table was actually obtained last minute as we drove from Ohio to New York to “get away from things” after my father’s untimely passing in 2008.Loud and boisterous Babbo was my first taste of Batali and it would quickly be followed by Otto and subsequently by other Vegas, Los Angeles, and New York outposts with each at least good and often times great.Always fun and always championing excellent service it was really no surprise to me when Del Posto, the fine dining end of the Batali empire, landed its fourth NYT star under Sifton – a star that firmly placed the restaurant on my “must visit” list for my next trip to New York, and with a $29 3-course lunch the decision was a no brainer.
Arriving around 10:00am at LaGuardia and catching the shuttle to midtown I turned out to be approximately an hour early for my 12:30 reservation and opted to see if an early check-in would be allowed – to my surprise the restaurant was less than 1/3 full and after checking my coat and bag I was led to a lavish two top in the main dining room without delay.With a grand piano replacing the standard Batali soundtrack of Beatles, Stones, and the Who it took me mere moments to settle in and I was promptly greeted by my captain who, in conjunction with the ancillary staff, would orchestrate a flawless afternoon in terms of service – water refilled as if my an invisible hand, bread replenished without request, and all plates delivered with full description and cleared appropriately.
With the menu explained in great detail shortly after I selected ice water over bottled I inquired as to whether additional plates could be added to the $29 prix fixe and was told “of course – a $10 per course surcharge will apply for each dish beyond the third.Having already scouted the online menu extensively ordering would commence quickly – $39 for four proper courses plus amuses, mignardises, and candies.
Order placed it would be mere moments before the dining would begin – first a small troika of amuses bouche.Beginning with choux pastry stuffed with creamy mortadella, crispy “suppli” Roman rice balls with mozzarella and gold dust, and “stracciatella” – a roman eggdrop soup with celery salt around the rim each of the flavors was mild and distinct – a variety of textures, flavors, and ingredients opening the palate up to the possibilities ahead.
Browsing the posh interior and noticing that most (if not all) the other patrons were suited men engaged in conversation – some with laptops or papers – there was no doubt Del Posto has become quite the spot for a power lunch.Unsuited and unaccompanied I was next brought the oft raved bread basket – piping hot and featuring an airy baguette, buttery rosemary focaccia, and a crisp rustic Italian roll.With each bread excellent on its own, the accoutrements to the bread were a whole different story – one a creamy and sweet butter and the other a dollop of lardo – whipped pork fat with hefty notes of salt, nuts, and audacious umami.As I enjoyed the basket I was brought the most recent copies of Batali’s magazine to leaf through – a nice touch.
With the bread serving as an ample vehicle to pork-fat consumption my first course would arrive as – well, pork with fat.Titled Warm Cotechino with Umbrain Lentil Vinagrette & Dried Fruit Mostarda the dish itself was center-pieced by a thick pork sausage atop a bed of beautifully cooked lentils with hints of vinegar and mustard seed.Generous in portion and topped with candied cherry and apricot compote the flavor balance was excellent, though the texture of the sausage was a tad grainy for my palate.
My second course of the meal would arrive approximately 10 minutes and a piece of focaccia after the Cotechino – unfortunately it would be a major disappointment.Titled Gnocchi con Pomodoro the dish featured small potato dumplings that were decent in texture, but poorly drained and somewhat watery.Topping the pasta with chunky tomato sauce lacking both salinity and seasoning – as gnocchi is my favorite pasta this dish was a major let down in taste, texture, and even visual appeal – as a matter of fact it was bad enough that I sent half of the small portion back to the kitchen untouched.
Sipping my water and browsing the magazine while I waited for something that would hopefully cleanse my mind and palate of the pasta it would be a delay of nearly 20 minutes before the next course would arrive, but unlike the gnocchi it was worth the wait.Modest in portion but ample in flavor, Seared Duck Breast with Apician Spices, Savor alla Francescana & Lovage was the dish of the meal with the duck breast tender and the skin crisp.Alongside the breast, a dollop of thigh confit at one side and a quenelle of dried apricot and pumpkin with pumpkin seeds at the other – one sweet and one savory – and at the base of the dish a celery root puree that added an earthy base to the rich duck jus added tableside.
With mains finished and coffee ordered – a rather acidic blend from Lavazza served in a French Press and refilled for free – my dessert would be the Chocolate Ricotta Tortino with Toasted Sicilian Pistachios & Extra Virgin Olive Oil Gelato.Heavy in dark chocolate notes and nicely balanced by the savory ricotta the dish was essentially a designer Italian Ho-Ho.Not overly sweet and paired with Batali’s now-famous Olive Oil Gelato there was certainly nothing light about this dish and the glassy palate feel of the olive oil would have almost been “too much” were it not for the crunchy pistachios and cookie crumbles.
Working on my second round of coffee and finishing up the last pages of the magazine my final tastes of Del Posto would arrive in the form of a cheese grater full of petit fours – bombolini with vanilla and orange zest crema, chocoloate covered lollipops filled with olive oil gelato, crunchy candied grapefruit, apple raisin polenta tort, and a cocoa dusted Amedei chocolate truffle – each well crafted and tasty, particularly the bombolini and tort.
Settling the bill and collecting my bag I thanked my servers and made my way to the streets for an afternoon of wandering the Tribeca gallery scene – always one of my favorite activities in New York.Thinking back on the experience and the price I must admit I understand the appeal of Del Posto as a business lunch – for fine dining the place is a deal and the setting is lovely.With that noted, compared to other equally priced lunches in the city (both Italian and otherwise) Del Posto’s food just did not “wow” in the way I had expected – everything was simply too safe, too quiet, too un-Italian, and decidedly too un-Batali…like an “experience” more than a restaurant, an experience created to earn Sifton or Michelin’s stars…which it has.
The first time I remember eating at Dragonfly Neo V was May 4th, 2008 – though in reality it turns out I’d been there once before, back during undergrad and before I had any concept of “fine dining.”Thinking back on that that meal in 2008 in retrospect, however, I realize now that even then I really didn’t have much of a concept of fine dining – I’d logged a mere two Michelin Stars , both at Wolfgang Puck’s Beverley Hills Spago, and that was at lunch.Flashing forward to February 2011 and having promised a friend (vegetarian) that I’d take her to dinner as a thank you for saving me from public transportation I wondered how Dragonfly would stand up with a good 83 (give or take a few based on yearly fluctuation) stars and 25 of Gayot’s “40 best restaurants” in my rearview.
Still residing at its original location on King Avenue but with a number of upgrades since my last visit – most notably “On the Fly” street-food next door and a lounge entrance – the building remains unassuming aside from a sign demarcating the entrance.With a pleasant young man collecting coats at the door I was greeted pleasantly and led quickly to a two-top where my guest was already waiting with an excellent Lavender Gimlet in hand.With the short menu – 5 appetizers, 4 mains, and 3 desserts – plus drinks already present on the table the next thing I noticed was the soundtrack…Shins, Strokes, Silversun Pickups, Modest Mouse…hipster/alt in a good way and at a good volume.With menus in hand I declined a drink of my own and opted to stick with water that aside from one glitch early in the meal remained full throughout.Interestingly as the restaurant was only ~1/4 full it would actually be a team of three – a female, a male, and Chef Wolmark himself taking care of us throughout the evening.
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With orders placed – a main each, no appetizers, the first item to arrive at the table would be the nightly amuse bouche – a squash puree wrapped in a cured slice of zucchini alongside a dollop of “tapioca caviar.”Sweet and savory, a traditional opening volley, the puree was nicely tempered in both taste and texture by the zucchini while the faux-caviar was a bit sticky without the characteristic “pop” of the namesake eggs, but the briny-gives-way-to-subtle sweetness was on point.
The second item to hit the table would be the house bread – a vegan friendly baguette paired with house made hot sauce and black bean puree.Slightly sweet and more spongy in mouth-feel than a traditional baguette the bread was quite tasty and vastly more hefty than tradition.Without butter or olive oil I personally found the hot sauce to be slightly too spicy but the black bean puree to be quite tasty.Mixing the hot sauce and beans, at least to my memory of it, reminded me of refried beans.
With main courses arriving shortly under an hour after I sat down I’ll note the pace at Dragonfly in the evening was cool and calm which was okay given the outstanding soundtrack and company, but it may have been less so if one were dining solo.With my dining partner opting for the nightly special I decided to select the gnocchi pomodoro.Wondering exactly how Wolmark would pull off Italian Gnocchi without egg or Parisian Gnocchi without butter or cream I was pleasantly surprised by the dainty pasta that tasted somewhere between a baked potato and choux-based.Lightly pan crisped on the exterior and married with a sauce of smoky chopped tomato, basil, chili, garlic, and perhaps nutmeg atop a swirl of sautéed onions the flavors were simple, classic, and excellent – easily the best Gnocchi I’ve had in Columbus.
The other item to arrive at our table was the special du jour – Crispy glazed Seitan “Mock Duck” with shiitake in heirloom sesame oil on scallion pancakes with citrusy cabbage, chopped scallions, and cilantro.Unfamilar with seitan my vegetarian friend described it as a wheat based protein and sure enough, on review it turns out to be insolvable gluten portion of washed flour that is then rendered into a textural meat that even without preparation has been referred to as “duck like.”Always leery of vegetables pretending to be meat I have to admit that as good as the gnocchi was, the “duck” was better.As a daily soy sauce consumer I thoroughly enjoyed the manner in which the sweetened version used in this dish caramelized during cooking and even more so how it interacted with the earthy mushroom slices and lemon tinged cabbage.Heavy in onion and light in cilantro atop surprisingly traditional Asian inspired pungent pancakes the entire blend was spot on and although you couldn’t have fooled me that I was eating the sort of duck I’m accustomed to (IE the rare preparations of artisan breedsbecoming more common in fine dining,) the pseudo duck was better than your standard fowl both in taste and texture.
With my gnocchi gone and my friend’s leftovers boxed up we were next offered dessert – a decision I deferred to the lady and a decision she declined.Rarely one to leave a restaurant without dessert I will say that while all the options sounded good only a creamsicle style tapioca really struck me as something I’d have liked to taste.While we were not offered coffee, delivered with the check (I’m still unsure why people consider Dragonfly “expensive” as I’ve spend twice as much on a single appetizer as I did on a meal for two) were two squares of organic 66% chocolate dusted with sea salt and paprika – an excellent closer that would serve well to be replicated into a larger scale dessert.With the bill settled we lingered for a bit as my friend finished her drink and although the restaurant was starting to fill up, there were still open tables and we were never pressured to leave – as a matter of fact, the servers continued to check in on us regularly.
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Making our way out of the restaurant and back to my car the first thing that came to my mind was how Dragonfly compares in the grand scheme of things – but after a quick thought that simply isn’t fair as I’m not a vegetarian or vegan – I love foie gras, I love poultry and fish in all forms, and if you serve me bread imbued with bacon there is a good chance I’ll leave you a great tip. Refocused more on what they were doing with their concept I can honestly say that Dragonfly hits on all cylinders and accomplishes something that only they and Kihachi can here in Columbus – they make you feel like you are in a bigger city eating a meal that is worth going out for.While the vegetables aren’t French Laundry quality and the handling and preparation aren’t striking the genius chords of David Kinch there is no doubt in my mind that Dragonfly would be a hit with vegetarians no matter where they were located – New York, San Francisco, any anywhere in between – and in bigger cities I imagine they’d attract more omnivores as well.
There are very few restaurants I feel compelled to return to again and again – the ones I do are genuinely mind blowing (Alinea,) cheap and kitschy (Griddle Café,) or…well, Bouchon Las Vegas.Open for breakfast, brunch, and dinner I’d been to Chef Keller’s Vegas Bistro on each of my previous three visits to Las Vegas and the opportunity to eat Christmas Brunch there with the three most important people in my life was simply too perfect and obvious a choice to pass up.Having contacted the restaurant to be sure they’d be open on Christmas I was informed that they were indeed open but not taking reservations as is their Saturday Brunch policy – I was also told there would be “holiday themed” specials available.
Waking early to be sure we’d arrive plenty early I have to admit I was a tad surprised when we were the first people in line at 7:45am, though we’d quickly be joined by twenty or so others before the doors opened with a pleasant Merry Christmas from the staff at exactly 8am.Checking in at the hostess stand we were quickly whisked away to a great four-top near the windows overlooking the pools at the center of the Venezia tower and presented with menus.With water poured the next person to visit our table would be our server, a pleasant young woman named Arlene who would live up to Bouchon’s customary service – interested and forthcoming, knowledgable and efficient.Describing the chalkboard specials (no “holiday themed” options to be found) and taking drink orders we were left to ponder our choices.
With the same menu as my previous visit plus the chalkboard specials I decided to venture onto the chalkboard while my family opted for Chef Keller and team’s more traditional breakfast/brunch fare on this seminal visit.With two coffees, a tea, and orange juice served and refilled consistently (save for the orange juice) by the ever circling bussers we sat for mere moments before the ever-welcomed epi-baguette would arrive, this time with that same lovely butter and apricot preserves.
Starting the meal proper and finally dining at Bouchon’s brunch with a group I was this time able to order the pastry basket I’d previously held off on for fear that it would go to waste.With four options to the basket plus one included with my aunt’s Breakfast Americane the basket would actually be a silver platter with a blue cloth.Featuring a cream cheese Danish, Pecan Sticky Bun, Orange Currant Scone, Chocolate Almond Croissant, and two Raspberry Beignets each taste was everything I’ve come to expect from Bouchon bakery and both the Cheese Danish and Orange Currant Scone were truly remarkable given the fact that I generally would not have ordered them at other restaurants.Rumor has it that Keller is working on a Bouchon Bakery cookbook and this experience once again made me hope the rumors are true.
Having already mentioned my aunt’s selection I’ll note it was certainly the bargain of the menu – two eggs buttery and medium scrambled, two slices of bacon, two pieces of impeccable sage accented sausage, toasted sourdough, the previously mentioned Danish, coffee, and orange juice for $22.
For my mother the choice would be a dish familiar to myself from two years prior; the bread pudding style French toast.This time using D’anjou pears as opposed to the Bartletts from my visit but again with lovely layers of custard interspersed with cinnamon spiked compote of fruit between each layer there really isn’t much that can be said about this dish that hasn’t been praised before – a touch of maple syrup, a dust of confectioner’s sugar to finish a truly decadent breakfast.To temper the sweetness she also ordered a side of bacon – 7 thick strips of apple wood smoked Kurobuta pork for a mere $5.
For my sister, still feeling the effects of the gluttony at Picasso the night before, something light was desired and the decision was made to sample Keller’s Waffle recipe.Spiked with vanilla and so crispy on the exterior that I’d not be surprised if cornmeal was involved, the interior of the waffle was supple and spongy – textbook.Topped with fresh bananas and chopped walnuts at a cost of $12 I can’t say this was a cheap waffle, but all things considering it was light, tasty, and unfaultable.
My breakfast selection would be from the chalkboard – it would also be the most expensive option of the day but also thankfully the best.Described merely as Oeuf du jour with Crab and Macaroni Gratin the dish itself would be served in a steaming hot low-ramekin. Featuring tender macaroni intermingling with plump chunks of crab, gruyere, breadcrumbs, and butter at its base the dish was subsequently topped with two medium scrambled eggs and sauce Mornay with paprika and chives.Creamy yet textural, slightly briny but sweet, and buttery beyond anything I’ve had in recent memory the dish was perhaps the best savory I’ve ever had for breakfast and the golden brioche served alongside harkened memories of Per Se and The French Laundry, even if the Apricot Jam wasn’t quite as good as the Foie Gras I was spreading in those settings.
With plates cleaned our bussers would clear the table rapidly and Arlene would return with the check – no offer of dessert, just a “No Rush – Merry Christmas and thanks for having brunch with us today” as she handed us the check in a glass cup.A tad annoyed at the lack of promised “holiday themed” specials we settled the tab and made our way to the door by 9:05 – a mere hour after we entered.With the lounge full and a growing line outside we made our way down the hall, out of the Venezia Tower, and back to our room.While certainly a good meal with great company this visit to Bouchon was a letdown largely due to heightened expectations.While there is no doubt in my mind that I’ll find my way back to Keller’s growing list of tables frequently over the coming years I now realize that on a day like Christmas there simply is no place as special as home, even if you are with all the people you love.
Exchanging our humorous Christmas gag-gifts and packing our bags for the Christmas flight home we next checked out of our hotel and left our bags in the rental car while we decided to finish our vacation with some gaming, coffee, and dessert in the early afternoon at Aria.Having already browsed the newest Jean-Philippe boutique multiple times during our visit and having tried the original at Bellagio in the past we were thrilled to note that as opposed to Bouchon, Jean Philippe was fully embracing the holiday theme.
Having experienced the Nutella gelato and Tiramisu on past visits to Jean Philippe at the Bellagio I personally was wowed by the vastness of the new shop’s selection – from cookies to candies to confections and ice cream everything looked excellent and given the length of the line we were given plenty of time to decide.With the space at Aria including a dining area in addition to the vast shop my mother and sister made their suggestions and went to wait out a table – a successful bid that would land us a four-top overlooking the gaming floor only moments before we paid our bill.
Browsing the selection and deciding on a dessert each, plus an enormous chocolate covered strawberry and a coffee the items were plated on clear plastic trays with the Chef’s signature logo – a nice touch softening the blow of a $38 tab.Splitting each item into fourths in order to design a miniature dessert tasting our selections would be a “gift wrapped” Carrot cake, a Nutella Brioche, a Snowman Tiramisu, and a Chocolate Bouche de Noel.
With each item a stunning example of Jean Philippe and team’s handiwork I still think this is one of the best Tiramisu dishes to ever grace my palate and the Bouche was vastly superior to that at Bouchon Bakery just days before.With the Carrot Cake loaded with a citrus toned cream cheese, raisins, and plenty of texture and the Nutella Brioche featuring the texture of a Croissant with easily two tablespoons of the Hazelnut filling within everything was divine, especially when paired with the subtly chocolate toned coffee.A sweet ending to a wonderful trip – and my first Merry Christmas outside of the Buckeye State.
In 2002 my parents offered to take me to Los Angeles via way of Las Vegas to see the Los Angeles Kings for the first time at Staples Center – it would serve as my present for graduating college. A memorable trip paid for entirely by people of humble means I still have great memories from that trip – and one strange memory of the absolute sticker shock pertaining to a restaurant called Picasso, at that time the best in town, and a place we’d considered eating for my celebratory meal until we saw the prices.With only a hint of interest in the World’s finest tables at that time we’d settle for a meal elsewhere, though I cannot recall where.
Flash forward eight years, countless memorable dining experiences, and five visits to Las Vegas since that trip I will note that the restaurant had long been on my radar, but it had always been put on the backburner because of a promise I’d made to my sister – an artist and admirer of Picasso – that if I went she’d be coming with me.Having returned from Los Angeles (having seen the Kings at home now for the fifth time) earlier that day I maintained that Picasso would prove a more experience than the one days prior at Julian Serrano and with my sister in tow the opportunity was there – on Christmas Eve next to the Bellagio fountains, to boot.
Established in 1998 to accompany the opening of The Bellagio, Picasso still holds its reputation as one of the five best dining spots in Las Vegas and has garnered Two Stars from Michelin in both guide books.While some suggest that the restaurant is overrated, its price-tag is significantly less abrasive than other contenders for “Best of” Las Vegas (Robuchon, Savoy, Twist, Alex) and the room, studded with thirteen priceless pieces of art is perhaps the most opulent.Arriving moments early for our 7:30 reservation we were told it would be a short while before our table was readied and we were welcomed to browse the art, sit at the bar, or watch the fountains from the Patio while we waited.Watching a number of walk-ins be turned away I was glad we’d made reservations – the restaurant was packed.
Mere moments would pass before our table was readied and walking through the expanse of the restaurant, past many lovely floral arrangements and million dollar works of art.Close to the window, as requested, and with excellent lighting we arrived to our two top where chairs were pulled out, a purse hook was offered, and menus were presented.Greeted by our server, a lovely man with a strong French accent named Robert, the Prix Fixe vs. Degustation choice was discussed and a drink menu provided.With chargers and serving plates (and purse hook) all whimsically designed with Picasso’s infamous brush strokes the “theme” reminded me of Le Cirque in its degree of continuity, yet it never seemed over the top or gaudy.
Opting first for cocktails and subsequently placing our orders I will simply say Robert was a perfect server – interested and interesting, there but never obtrusive, ever giving and never hovering – especially since he was also responsible for water refills, bread service, and everything but bussing the tables.For our cocktails, at $14 each, the decisions would be the Picasso Pom with Hangar One Raspberry, Lemoncello, Pomegranate Juice, Spiral of Lemon and the Emilio Cocktail with Lustau Rare Cream Sherry, Level Vodka, Nocello, Tuaca, Spiral of Orange.Refreshing and smooth after a long day of driving both drinks were quite heavy handed with the alcohol, but nicely balanced by the fruity tones.
Arriving as we sipped our drinks the nightly amuse would be Cold Smoked Scottish Salmon, Caviar, Cucumber, Quail Egg, Crème Fraiche, and Potato Leek Soup.Served curled around the crème fraiche the salmon was excellent – more firm than a sashimi prep, but similar in taste.With the caviar somewhat less briny than others I’ve tasted it worked well with the somewhat sour crème while the egg added its characteristic creamy flavor.The Potato soup was a commendable potage – the creamy texture balanced nicely with the onions and chives.
Finishing our soup and salmon, the first of many rounds of bread would begin.With different varieties appearing over the course of our 170 minute meal the options of which we were able to partake included Cherry Manchego, Green Olive, Traditional Baguette, Bacon Onion Brioche, and Cherry Walnut Wheat.While each was delicious and nicely complimented by the sweet “Picasso” stamped butter I must say I particularly appreciated the Cherry Manchego with the nutty and savory cheese balanced marvelously by the sweet dried cherries.The Bacon Onion Brioche too was quite extravagant and tasty, though it didn’t particularly pair well with any of the courses.
With myself ordering the 5-course degustation, largely unchanged over many years at Picasso, and Erika opting to go Prix Fixe for more choices our first courses would arrive simultaneously.For my first dish, Maine Lobster Salad – Apple-Champagne Vinaigrette was ample in portion, elegant in presentation, and lovely on the palate.With thick chunks of chilled lobster in a light cream sauce serving as the base, the “salad” was essentially microgreens tossed with apple-cider accented vinaigrette atop.Flanked by melon balls and tomatoes of varying colors the dish was quite light, a wonderful opening volley even if it was much more “lobster” than “salad.”
My sister’s first course was not the one I’d have selected on a menu with quail and oysters, but honestly it was lovely, perhaps better than my lobster.Titled Crème of Butternut Squash Soup the dish featured an absolutely satin smooth veloute of creamy squash in a large shallow bowl.Complimented with Homemade Amaretto-Nutmeg Marshmallows and Duxelle of Wild Mushrooms the dish was simply a perfect balance of sweet and earthy, creamy and fibrous.One of the five best soups I’ve ever had the chance to enjoy.
Course two of our meal would present me with my only disappointing course of the meal – and my sister with her favorite dish of the trip.Part of the degustation, my plate was a Pan Seared U-10 Day Boat Scallop with Potato Mousseline and Jus de Veau.Served with a potato crisp standing playfully behind the single monstrous scallop the dish looked beautiful and the tastes were lovely, albeit predictable with the savory veal reduction balancing the sweet scallop.With the creamy potato puree loaded with butter the place where this dish missed was in the centerpiece – gorgeously caramelized to the point of a near brulee on the exterior the scallop was simply a bit too well done at its center.While certainly a competent and lovely preparation the fact remains that perhaps twenty less seconds on the pan could have elevated it to a whole different level.
With my sister gushing across the table I was fortunately able to steal (or beg for) a bite of her dish without being assaulted.Titled simply as Sauteed Filet of Black Bass with Cauliflower Mousseline and Saffron Sauce I have to admit this was her second dish in a row that left me jealous.Flawless fish – supple and moist with the skin seared to crispy was just the start. Resting in a delicate pool of buttery saffron sauce and surrounded by a troika of quenelles of Cauliflower Mousseline – the very essence of cauliflower, butter, and cream – everything was refined, mild, and lovely.No culinary trickery, just top quality product prepared with a gifted hand.
The next course would provide my sister with an empty charger while I would receive the Sautéed “A” Steak of Foie Gras with Poached Pears, Huckleberries, Crushed Pistachios, Lemon Zest, and Rhubarb.A large steak of 3-4 ounces of high quality and perfectly cleaned Foie Gras, the liver itself was everything you would expect.Placed atop a “cake” of compressed pistachio and topped with roasted crunchy pistachios kissed with lemon the textures were a nice contrast and exceptionally complimentary.Swirled with rhubarb reduction and plated alongside a poached pear with huckleberries this dish did not attempt to reinvent the wheel, but much like the bass it was quite memorable for its classic approach.
Watching the water show outside through the window it would be a fair amount of time before our main courses arrived – a tad inconvenient for Erika but welcomed for me given the richness of the proceeding dishes and my inability to stop picking at the bread selection.When the mains arrived they would definitely prove to be worth the wait.For myself, Roasted Lamb Chops with Sweet Bell Pepper Farci turned out to be quite the substantial portion – easily 7-8oz including the bone.Prepared rare and extremely juicy yet easily cut with the side of the fork this was without a doubt a top-5 all time lamb preparation.Presented simply with rosemary, a stack of buttery potatoes, and a mélange of sweet bell peppers this would prove my favorite dish of the evening, regardless of how good the Foie Gras was.
My sister’s main course was a surprise to me – I didn’t know she fancied Pigeon.Titled simply as Roasted Pigeon with Wild Rice Risotto the dish was rustic French in every way.Brined and then roasted the whole split pigeon was an impressive portion with lovely golden skin and juicy flesh.Presented alongside equally well roasted carrots and asparagus plus a mélange of toothsome rice and fibrous mushrooms with corn and tomatoes I will note my sister did not love the rice as she felt it tasted a bit acidic, but to my taste it was actually quite pleasant in balancing the bird.
With our server checking in to see how everything was going we were next offered coffee – at $4 a person it was a pleasant but unmemorable blend served in clever Picasso cups with lips and an abstract nose on its side.Along with the coffee would arrive dessert, a la carte for each of us and surprisingly without a palate cleanser.Beginning first with my selection, strongly recommended by Robert, Hazelnut and Coffee Opera with Coffee Hazelnut Ice Cream and Brown Sugar Filberts was quite impressive in presentation.With a thin wedge of moist cake served on edge with a “shadow” of Hazelnut dust the flavor and texture of the cake was somewhere between almond dacquoise and tiramisu.Resting happily next to the tall and proud cake, a small ball of similarly flavored ice cream atop candied nuts – creamy and crunchy, a nice cake and ice cream combination but certainly nothing to write home about.
My sister’s dessert, billed as the restaurant’s signature sweet, would be Warm Chocolate Fondant with Caramel Candy Cashew Ice Cream and Chocolate covered Cashews.Essentially a warm chocolate lava cake that gushed forth liquid fudge when pierced the presentation of this dish was quite attractive and the cake tasty, but the true star of the show was invariably the ice cream which took the idea of salty caramel ice cream and instead made it salty cashew – lovely, and absolutely stunning when paired with the cake and some of the crunchy cashewssemi-circling the plate.
Sated and happy the check would come next – a relative bargain compared to the other Michelin 2-Stars in Las Vegas to be sure.Along with the check a small tray of mignardises including an airy vanilla meringue, an apricot pate de fruit, a few fruit and nut cookies, and a goat cheese lollipop with a crisp of apple – all tasty, none overly impressive save for a rich chocolate ganache with four layers of texture and chocolate tones.
Settling the bill Robert asked us if we would like a photograph by one of the many Picasso’s or by the lake – “both” was the only logical response.With a requested copy of the menu in hand I will note that Robert got sidetracked by multiple persons asking for photos, but eventually ours was taken and we bid him farewell before making our way to the door where my sister (not I) would be presented with a box of crispy cinnamon butter cookies in a lovely magnetic jewelry box bearing the Artist’s signature.
Making our way from Picasso I must say I left with mixed emotions – not because anything was bad – as a matter of fact, everything was quite good.The issue was that aside from a lovely Christmas Eve with my little sister at a restaurant that seemed unattainable a mere 8 years ago, nothing was “great” aside from the décor and art.In the end I think Picasso has maintained its place in the Vegas culinary scene – it is just that many other restaurants, and my own personal dining preferences, have perhaps grown to be something more.
A Kings win, the first I’d seen live in nearly 6 years, ended December 23, 2010 on a very happy note and waking up early on Christmas Eve we’d be departing Los Angeles en route for Las Vegas bright and early.Staying east of the city and having been made aware of a unique spot in San Marino, essentially a five minute detour to our morning, we checkout out and made our way through the quaint little city arriving at Julienne shortly after 7:30am – the patio would already be full and the inside bustling with patrons to both the restaurant and the attached gourmet restaurant.With folks clad in everything from Rudolph sweaters to USC Trojans athletic wear the crowd was a mixed group but everyone was smiling and happy as Christmas tunes piped in overhead.
Seated without delay, our server Herbert would show up rather quickly with menus and drink orders were placed.Browsing the menu – eclectic but delicious sounding – we waited for a rather long time before drinks would arrive, however water was filled quite rapidly by an ancillary server.When drinks arrived – two coffees and two teas – they were in pretty glass mugs…mugs that would sit empty for substantial periods of time despite repeated requests for refills throughout the meal.While I cannot comment as to how many tables he was serving, I will note that all in all Herbert was quite sub-par and his interaction with our table was essentially the same as a runner – dropping off plates, collecting empty plates, but never checking in or offering refills unless prompted.
With orders placed we were told it would be approximately twenty minutes before plates would arrive and took the opportunity to browse the store – a unique collection of artisan goods and house made items to go.Clearly catering to the Christmas crowd there were innumerable cookies and confections being picked up from the counter and all in all everything looked excellent.Returning to our table it would be only a few moments before our first item would arrive – well before our drink refills.
For our appetizer the decision was made to split a scone because the hostess who sat us specifically noted “if they have any scones left you have to try them – so good.”With my mom skeptical of scones and my experiences mixed I will have to tip my hat – this was the best scone I’ve ever tasted.Slightly dry but punctuated with pockets of lemon butter, the Lemon Crème Brulee Scone clocked in at $5 and likely a full pound of weight.Easily half the size of a football the scone was more than enough to share and as good as it was on its own the addition of a crackling lemon cream and dried currants only made the dish better.This is absolutely a must order to anyone who takes the opportunity to visit Julienne – it is worth the trip from Los Angeles.
With such an excellent start it would admittedly be difficult for our entrees to keep pace with the scone, but the effort was valiant.Beginning first with my mother’s seasonal pancakes – Pumpkin Pancakes with candied quince, crystallized ginger Butter, Pure Maple Syrup, dried currants – the pancakes were a tad heavy due to the ample amount of pumpkin within, but the lovely tender quince and ample notes of ginger worked to add some spice and levity to the dish.Almost savory on their own, the maple syrup was certainly necessary to this dish and served warm it accomplished its purpose admirably.
My sister’s selection, Bittersweet Chocolate Chip Waffles with Honey Vanilla Crème Fraiche, Shaved Chocolate, Fruit was a disappointment in my opinion, though I’ll note she enjoyed it.With small and largely bland waffles – literally Eggo size, and not much more nuanced in flavor – serving as the base the best aspect of this dish was the impressive fresh fruit.Topped with grated milk chocolate and ripe strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries that balanced nicely with the mildly sweet crème fraiche it is a shame that the waffle itself didn’t hold up its end of the bargain.
My aunt’s selection would prove to be the best option of the breakfast by a long distance – it was Griddle Café quality and perhaps better.Titled Baked Crème Brulee French Toast with Fresh Strawberry Sauce and Creme Anglaise the French toast itself was a large wedge of brioche, clearly premade given its level of custardization.Subsequently baked in the oven and then bruleed on each side to form a crackling sugar shell the toast was then doused in rich crème Anglaise, light maple syrup, and warm Strawberry compote.Dazzling in texture and taste, this dish along with the scone indicates that perhaps Julienne should brulee everything.
My choice, obvious to anyone who knows me, was the Bread Pudding French Toast with Fresh Peach Sauce, dried currants.While I still cannot distinguish what made the “Bread Pudding” different from the “Baked” version of French Toast at Julienne, that isn’t a bad thing since my dish featured the same lovely custard toast baked to a golden crisp, but instead topped with the very essence of pureed peach and currants.While I must say I was a tad disappointed that my strawberries were less ripe and tasty than those provided to the others, they certainly weren’t bad – just a bit bitter.Left with one choice I’d go with the Crème Brulee French Toast, but that is largely represents my love of Crème Anglaise moreso than anything being wrong with my dish.
Sitting and waiting with dirty plates on the table for some time before our waiter would finally return we watched a small line grow outside Julienne – clearly they are not hurting for business.Figuring that if we paid a dollar for every word uttered by our waiter the tip would only be about 7%, we settled for slightly more than that and made our way to the street having spent approximately $20 each on breakfast.Driving back through the quaint town and seeing all the Latin inspired architecture I can’t say I’d rush back to Julienne as a tourist across the country, but if I lived in Los Angeles I’d make the trek…but I’d avoid Herbert’s section at all costs.
